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GOVERNMENT OF INDIA

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ARCHEOLOGICAL SURVEY OP INDIA

ARCHAEOLOGICAL

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LIBRARY

1 1

ACCESSION NO. U_3_L7

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CALL No. ^

D.G.A, 79.

i*3 *■

vJ- %■

c ■■ » .

AND

THE PERSIAN

QUESTION

11 f)N. GEORGE N. CUKZOS . M.P.

i.*TK THJLOW <lV iU> ('-ilAMI, OXfOfia

AUTJIOJl A*r b HC T *IA U*

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TWO VOLU

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LONDON

LONGMANS, GBEEN, AND CO,

AND NEW YORK : 16 EAST 16" STREET

1892

4 it iPJ*TPrf

IT NTR AD AT?nTATCCLOGICAfc
LIUHAliY, NEW DELHI.

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CONTENTS

THE SECOND YOLUSIK

CHATTER XIX

FttGM TMHKHAS TTl ISPAHAN

Tin- h-i pti f 1 11 t I v route—I'orial t*Wn—E™ls tu Kmn^fl) OMcmittn itnvk
—( 2 ) rrirrinpi* iflwl—The fit™ IjiIhs—(:() Postal ™d— KiUu — HirtWT
Roynl tciul*-Shrine, of Fntim*—Reslonittop— The city— Us people
iw n | raid— Kashmir Us nmiiitlwsfcttrt*— Pc^pitt-8eKwpi(ma

hiUct of FI a-Bond of Shall Ahbwe—Kuhnul— Bo*4 io Isfkliaa—
Apprnqifh to the city- History— Atifaaf (lie IJrent—The
^vtiivl capital—Ban of thd city— M uklnn-J-^luAh—NEikkiHfa-KTumeh—
Itocqin* of Lutfuttah 'ttiup($"l-5hiftli—Gnti! of A1E Kapf—Tht Palace

- - Cl I eh el * [I i ■ 11 -TimnWi—Tiirtitw! ■ ream—But live* ^loiy— 1 Script \m

Court k nail I'ftTUimis—Hnrfit Hehcskht—Chi'hitF ISnjjh - - Mini resseb-i-
Shah *nd export*

- - MaTnifActant — Populnt Ion nnd chamei it—Court—A nay - The /emk-b

Itn,| Bifdne of Jlwmni—Bridge of All Vtril Khan—Hnmr Jtrih-
PttM’JlmliS -Haft Ik*t and Almsto-Khnneh—Pod-f-Klwija— Prid-e of
Hhukrktftn -JflHw—SUM? AmiuiitiUi community—G*II k*1toI - Cento-
teiy— United Annenbtto—Church of Euptaud Mbrfnii— European
Htlaaj—'Shaking aari xnSns - * ■ ■ 1

CHAirrER XX

nOM ISFAHAN to SUlhAZ

Postal roild-M 4 i™r-Knmfi*dt-Iiiittte*fiB]il -f Ktfft—Uaksiid Bcgjri-
pjir.i_ Yi^Tikiiusi — Eilerior— Interinr- Alk-matUu rnirft — Ahaiti-h
Ufhlikl Mutyh^b —itnlns of I*t*nryrtd»— flj I'lnllcnn-(2) Ecu a
Ara-taiupla {J) InwcrlliffllrHJftr --{4) Oolnnin and pir^or*-^) AJIcgod
fL^iim of Cvnis-{t) MT»Jid-l-aiiHiar 4 -Snlfiniha--Tin* taiulj-chiiaiher—
Pi nUn rcndll'frn Kirnf. lifrntIBttilon with Timib of Cyma-Tho ch*-
*lcrji writers— Points, of ir^nnbhiflofr Points of difference—Identity or
ftupipidFfr- Hratfcln sTpamtnip—Ehualijird—Cmqhi*hm Appatah in
Tiie Unmi-Atflir- Apiirmnij lu Slilraa Teii£^AiIahu Afctisr

1T.LSI \

r*4t

^Vli'w uf the cilj — iiieterv—The Art—OM rak^ - lkmr and trade
—Vlnto^ of Shim—-Other mini u future* J|i?«juc^ ami oolkj^e*—
IVuple nnil life - Iknta - Bn okh t - llaph ■ i^ T o - Jelm h NdtUili

—DiJffUiha ^tU and Hafiz Tomb >jf Sautf Cn>tfc ami walli Tomb
FIuHk —Ewvinbcs’ tfmrea— Local poc riel, bun—SnU lake* Numnds of
Fkij fTiihbfi fNpmiiitfnii l^rrarnt ihrlifnr Amir lUnlw ■ * fi*

CHAPTER XXI

PKH»PULIA, AND OTHEfi Ut'l 3 tD

Orntlps of AelnmBufibiQ and Ka^saman ruin*—Sussiin urn remain# : (1) llttjia-
iiwl ImicHpt Sun—(S) SeuljAurt* of Nakrbd* Rustam - Find tablet ■ Vurah-
nm and Cjuot-i) - Scrand njul l bird laldcH : Kf|nc*lHnn combat — Fourth
tablet; Bhnpnr and Veferiim— Fifth tablet : Er|y#riHitn combat - SUth
tablet: Vamljrcm It. tied courtier*—tvjvoiitli tablet: OnnuM Blul
Ardeshlr— (8) Saalptnr?* of Nfilt*h-Ufie{fib- Firtt tablet: Ormni/L and
Airloshir— Sieond tablet: Uinmzfl and Ardemhir—Thin] Cabb I : Ebaf^tf
ud bodyguard—Crltldun— Bafnini/tB fhberiptitra* at Pcf* |»ib Arlne-
dh4)Iu rearms A nd«et t irml Ier*— The c« nei form alpha bet — I mprored

ill mdrnt Eons— 1 Thu rval name—Hhiory of Mnkhr and Pern*poll*—
f I) Koifiiof l-takhr—Boh(iumbedan — (St) TombioE the Kliut*&i NlbJ^
UBaMtiim—E* ic-Tiii 3 future* —1 ni*rlor artftngwiiifcni— Fir*t iamb—Tomb
of Hurl in—Third and fourth tomb*—Egyptian prototype—Tha ftoro-
ftwtriatl cunuh—Bo-called Fiavtempjti’— Whil ill —Fim-tdtur* — (3)

Hum* qd the plain— (t) pem‘f¥vlis--Approflch—TI jp ptationa—Materia]

ftnuutLiiut—Multi itnircoH - Porch. of Xftrifcd— Iruer^tlob of St ni's

—Epigraph* of travel—Ontral lydl -Sceond gateway CUteru — Einll
of Xer^e*. Sial rc**e— Seal I n oft*— E’lootAdoni at No Bo* Tl 1 ti column
— DiiuL-EisiuiiH — I'raldcm of w*Ui- Rnaf of Itartui—Side-

entrance -Central hall—ftHtdiptton*—Sontb Mair™*" — ChnmcEii'r uf
Laihl— QaedtUm of valk-Hliw of ArkiAn^ 111.*— llulaoe of
Xeric*—Great mound- Saulhnswl edifice— IVrUrttl edLfic*— Hnll of a
13 nudred Col u mna—bculpinn s -Di.dfin —fropTJji'A — Wjls j l liurtinl by
AloJumdiir T— Bdhtmrninqnn pa^ige#— tllsSldlhed work— Royal tomb* —

Hnrth tomb— Mlddlft tomb— Sunt h iamb— The veritable l'nrsEp>lii-
Stulstc'a doubts -Thu answer—Utaiory of de.-dmerion— Artist 1 0 criticism
-Hilary el clue lo art— Jnfhnuce of Assyria- Lyeifll find IcifilJI— Egypt
—Gre«e—ReshliRi wf idglmility—LittdtaiEmis—CooduilHiD . . .115

CHAPTER XXII

FKPM 8 JIIKAZ TO SUIBmK

|h?3ct-nt by root-ladders— 1 Table of route K lintid-^lnlali— DnabM- Araen
—Wild bout# — Thi lake of I be Old Woman—Ittss of the* Moil le tt

— Xomadr? -Tukhl- L-TEmur— Eniartan — VIjeEI in Lhe mi us of Blmpur—
Bide to alia pur—Thu Sosisunian city—nilda—Oilmlhil—bas-
ndiefs—FitsE iahlol: BUapur cmd Vmlenail—B«»od tublut : Shapur.
VuJumru and Uyriatlis — Upi^ito lniiuk and putueducl — Ilssnl LstbU i

roNTKNTs OF THU SECOND VOLUME

VII

fnvertfcorc of Cyne-lia -Fourth tablet: Hu Cfiptiieo-Fifth Uiblcl :
Omiuut fl „,l N<irs»-«K*»i laHef: Triumph of Chowima-Arttolo
„w _ TJj .. fiivfl irnd it-'Ltm.' of Slinpltr— Interior mmilkrfhiw-lfcuiianj
_ K^..|.i.K am: .ni-i , l*i» «* Khbhl.-KuiiiUl^liillu-Mfei tow -
Dttltki— lU'nujuti —Shirking ito totals ■ Khmrtwb—BMf—Btohifo—
people and tuiers-The town—Ctfonte ami water—The port—Reshire
—British inflMW * * *****"

FMIl

CHAPTER XXin

THE JLASTERH ASP SOUTH-PASTERN PROVINCES

KvlOeia* of rhi- a^CWw iutd ,ta«ii-Ycwt »ml Kem-m-HIrto^ of
Yevl-Sis* and nppuartiiw-Tlw (tafrn* letd o aommeroWerapax.um

, _itgronii# apt! HisiurV of KcmiM—ModfiJU uity—1 rule

_ Revenue ami l iovamment— The great de«ns-Tlie Danlu- 1 -Kavir—

ti- origin— kind! of btrir- Tr»*oltor* in th« 0'«‘t KArtr—
n,e itiwiht-i ■ I <tu—Baa—JVrstan MwliUn-ta< <■' r ravel- History
of Pcw un (jMflwchaeiit— Boundary Commission, 1870 -PM^mi aib-
VOmi -Country ami P«>pk- YUHg* ml eultivatb«-*«km-rho
Mach plateau - Serhad - l>i™k - - Itsmpar- -

Pcnrfaja rule—Britain aensaw the hordur «

CHAFTEB XXIV

Tilt SOUTH-WATERS PROVINCES

Koinitd Ilfe-Fcwign olewoiite-Tribei oF foraln- Turto-Amto, KnnK

ol^-aowflit chiranteri*Uca'-l'*n*toi * Lum*"'

of i |u> Lur*— NmnbUfS—Tto Kellis I’lrij-huh-KlionvimiUoJ
—[^lit-i-Kiih -History- Hii#lhh traveller* -Huwht Kali Khan. Vali of

PaahM.KLdi ilotmtnlM ami river* -Chiral er ami lifts--Hiu Bakhtin?"

—Their Ljnnhtrv Their history -The flielmr km# - MnlmiHmed I nk:

, ■ i T , . i | ■ ifi Lni^ir— Tlifl nallocr trlTO*iilifce~lilitMlcr ftnd fooling

"w,™ - —«■*««—•— ■*

Huruilii! — Dlstfil Fiahlana-Baha Of tl* pwt^dhiw'an-Uflos and
Ulenhrfoy-Mwwds of Sosa M. JHnUqrl* distowiw-Tomb nf
Pwtal-JHd Afflir-Sw-n-Ottor remalw-Tho Karan rienr-Tto
K it Hunan -Knhtwlo Kais-Mannwenni Lur»— AaWrfan— Tto Arsih.
—Ka’b Aral*!— Tto HdmkM nlnaJtho— Shaikh ilhud Klin e-Kenton
patiey-Amb habits — Thu Mmitetit-SlIUlinary.

CHAFFEE XXV

TIlK KAitUK ntVER

TJ,e Kanin woiilrv -Tto Karon fiver-Aneiont channck-Early negoibitfrm*
-Enlcniri^ uf Me*™ Itfitth-The Mhal-ol-Aft* Turkish fort n< Fm
-TelJnnl. smtion-Haflnr chw.Bel-Ott«eM amenities-ttoam.
Isirimi Lh.tj —-V oluitutmrmii—A I'erthm oflicial-ltiJiirnsiliir ehiinnel—

2f.a

PERSIA

viii

Landscape—Blind Karon—Kakin canal — Arab mmpji Iflvemirisettle-
miintfi—Wild game—A Invar—Tins mpld# Thv jzruat «latu -Mnin mjifcd
—Highest rapids—Channel, canal. or tcaniway?—Alntmi t c]* Aginii-AVsr
of 3 hl-"p7— i Smiderd-N aaiti —la I rtxlaol Icn in the Mirm - 1 i Li wily waiys —

Hifl dUUn^uished p-uHLts—X]i4! Mli^l aJn:j- n n^ht'A rest—
perififfliT—The 'Susa 1 Tin? Kurins a'nove AbivaE—Weis* hit iVim-I--
Bbaptii T fir S briar riv.-r—Point of confluence-—lluodUbKir— flue ilire-H
(KmiloenLn—The Ab-i-DU—The AMdSbuteit— The Ab-E-finEur—Night at
Bund-E^Kiir -Route* in Shtwhter The island—Sunrise—Ontadrirt* of
Hhushtcr— LlJ.ttory— Fi»pn!;i> Erm -MfwIern FcM□res—Collars -TflJUleand
Manufacture - Luyarri and Selby on llw people—Moslem duu^CtT
Ap|auii»OA[((l -^itTWllon nf town—Waterworks—(1) The Ab-i-

Gerger—Prim* and mliEr—{2) The Abd-SImtidt—H u nit am] Bridge iif
Valerian —Brokeu eeal ion — (3) The Mi Etna cannl— 'Tradition yf Valerian —
Explanation of Finmant hydraulic*—Cnindruistiori of the Qof^or cuui]-
Building of the big A**^——Arsenal
—Civilities—Descant of I ha Gergur—The- Mirra oguln^UpposiltiiJh U\
British navigation—Prmpeflt in i f^O—Subsequent prO£K?*S—Public
works— Nutivu friiterprfec— Hrit Eub fortune* * 330

CHAPTER XXVI

TUB KAVY

perainn dreud of Hie nen Maritime ambition* of Nad Lr F? hah. | J \ The ('ypini;

— (2) Tho Forman Gulf—Korim Khun Zend—Treatii* of Gulitinn nrui
Tutkoutamdml — ( K'CfcijKLttoEi of Adiura.'ln—The Hindi's yacht — Tin- Per-
shun Gulf—"Tho * Pelfsflrpglii'The 1 tiroa* -

CHAOTER xxvn

T II K 1‘KnSI AN r,UhF

Historical interest of tho Half—Synopsis. Northern wt lEue—Southern
OoaaYilac—linndur Ma-hur ami H Indian—Ftondan jttrlulictien—Bunder
Ditii.ni Blinder It^ Bnahus -Coasf landscape-—Khamk Inland—Danh-
tisbin and Kongim — Region of historic- Interest-—LEngab — Native cmflfc
— Tradu —Tomi and pop ulation^ Island of Kinhm—British ttdlilarv
s* k ttknii;nii.— An ndventurer 1 .- carets— IL-iijueu Mand- OrtnujE and
ll under AbbfUt—Hblory of Ormuz —Portuguese a^odeqpj-HaknLl dis-
advantages—Splendour of city— EugJ&h iuerdiftnt.h— Uupturn bfhv>vn
Portugal and Perrin — 3 y c rfdau tn fit* Move to Bunder A bbo.> . L \ * c fl,

male Collnp^ of the factory ni PlmuEcr AbhaB. -Rtcnovai to buslifro —
Claims of Muscvn— Rfrassortion -jf Persian authority— Miideru Bunder

Abba*— Trade Minau Jw^k fml^Karopeon Tideumph_Xndinn

nujitari- station— _M« "dem dnak— 31 qkmn —Gwsdur—Co*»t firvuvry

— HialcKy— SwTfly—ttbtoifiof Otbah— Rding ilynanty^ JteyEd

flC6—33 a scat and Kaniibar — City of Muscat— Cactle*-PFino
nwan — ClinmtE — CLi y and people—Foreign rcpn-Heritaiives— TnuJe— An
old Pretender—Arab warriors—Ca|Mi M a.-jind tm — Eu^lish occnpiitEon—

CONTENTS OF THE SECONU VOLUME

PAI1K

Pimte tribe* Cofdlict* Eteri traUfe*—The Traci*! Chief* El Kn t r
Ottoman |)itt«nHioDn—Llalireili Inland*—Pewl-fishm - era-

plLiyuc! — t h rwlELCt‘ -Ili.Mt^iy—The lVatutilA—32drammed ibn ICjimIj inL—
Kbveta tir Ornm—F»« - ElTet-t.-* nd ItettfrTi PrctMtareto—C*rop*ri«p
with KuH^inEk eloifciks—iliimiiu rf Ihr iiAvij^itiij'ii—A

Uq 1( nl edmer + . 1 + , + 3&T

CHAPTER XX VII[

tEVCV'KNTEp BKSOUNCES, ASH MANUFACTURER

Persian ftginv- of rerouie—J. Haliut or flred revenue. (1)

Tu-iulkm r^l^-Mdhotl of jmymeut—ilttfMiuc—Till ml hlnek-
tiilil Tiadv-lm- (t) RcycdCiu frulii Crntth lands- — (S) Customs-—Abuse#

-(1) Hunt* Bind tretMi^i -II. IfTTL^LLhir revcnru!, icqgiijliOM —

(£} 1Vn i ttE 4 &t No ISn *, Ae. —<3) Ext n^iirrl I lifljv jdtikrfit Dc -prec ht folk * i F

etttVOlicy • - IJiidgoE for — Hove .u — Expentliture —SurpLur —

Annuities- AlkEjaefi of priseat lajutliun— N cpJ for new cracssmcnt—
PuhilLi- Kooitnb-Saw iM*ntivn—C^^Hnn reform -P^ndaii uatlona of
rirwnrt- F^lai] laud tnnant—<1) CtOWtL Imul*—(2) FeuikJ lands—

(3) ItoJigi-nns endowment*—(4) PrisnEe piOpertr— J'opqlidlotJ —Qewrpl

KotrinEtJer* figure ibiutoii iWuct# isrl ffiftunfiuiunft-

CMl—Suj^ar— Cot Lott Silk—Tobacco—Opium—Processes employed

Mo^dsd j iLn fib - -Colouring plant® — i*tz nr imimm Turn bcr-
FlriWcn find piirdoll^ Fruit- The efu-e FcrffllM irihc and wino-
bibbcra—Present numufnctun* -^Spirit unite l['[uors -Animal*: Hnr^>

- Misled— C^eell'Is— Eishoricfs — HLdi— VVno! Mi in-ml res^rats
History — M^dimk esEplalfcatinn— lVt*Lun Mining l'-Dr|iur fit ItiH— Mlntral-
lirbdnrihg Eyrie.-’ t. H Aierifaijm (*) fllbors minim.- Xorth-wmrtem
riMricr -Xbrth-culcrnillHirfcr (3) Kbonteuti (4)Kcrrmin —[&) Central
district*—( (1) PcnrflUi Gulf HltOnkl— Mttmiai —think Kill and iren odm?

— Jteniibic^ nLannmls— Fcitnns of mining in I'cmia M*nu fuel ttrfts—

UnrpoE> Slirtwls, print*, velvets. Hi Iks. cm brotdorlft*— A nistJc pn>duc-
tliHii-flraioiiy . . 400

CHAFTEB XXIX

CPHUERCK AXI1 TftAHK

Part I- uf ' utvjko 4 Trade

Tlie thread nf history Perkin the oormwting link—The merchant nation*
1\iirtEtgoe<e iWrtlfltklMyf- Eligtkwh Irdthitivt Thr- lloncory CoEnpany
and Persia Trading ^^yttloia Gm-c* of inEjure Gn&flt to Sir
Alkthmj SLn'iit-y--Slf John Merrick—G lies Ifohhs French tiiqblllon
Hol^lela enalisuwy PsUT the Great iind lln 1 Rn^La LVmpny -John
ELtoti and Joan Banwiij^Ahuicloiiiiken t of lnuineM Balsncr-fllioci-
pDBHons of foil are — Turkey nlid lirQVAht Cumpkiuy The Eafit indih
First dDallik^ with the Pci^iwri Gulf—The Frentti—The
RuAdatiA—Thu [hiteh -BrlMah fortune* E^a

VOL, 1L

PERSIA

Past XL Th? Modem Trade of Per* it*

Uluingo ilk tike FH L ene-—Italian nscende rtcy tu the XoJlli flriliHll ascend¬
ency in i lie South —Ttw middle ground—Tor n.1 of Fend an exports
CiidfuQter Of bnJHrU — Foreign feeders—Total value— Estimate from
Cuatom-hduin rut urns*—Persian tradn arteri»--lfnrtti'western Eoee.
(I) rrrbiroDii Tubdi line—(S) TlftU-Twlmt line -{3) A^tim-Titbm liM
I) AlesaniLroLtiL-rTalirix lino — Northi-m jcuiuj. The Tobenui market—
(5) Resht-Tuhorah Uiw (ft) >1 ashe-Lt-Ber-Teh Bran line -Nrjrsli-f.nleni
zone, (J | (ici ^imbtul Line—( 8 ) ^hkakd-Meibed line—Transit routes
pj) Khiva nndBokhtn—(10) Htohvd to A fgh rail-fait -(H)

Afghan transit route from India—SoythEm loan. (12) BuMUff-Abb&B-
Kormun-YeivUMtihecl line *H I ,1 } inajpahH^aiisLan linn—(14) EEmdiirr-
ShinLE-lifitbnjL line - Rapid Inereue of trfuie - Trade of Shiras sad
Lfuluin YVt - !om mine. (lu) St Dluicnmertdi-SljaBliTer-BCLrn j ini line—( H i|
Ib.uhilAd-KTrEEUtnsImh line * Figures o£ tmows trade i IT 3 iki^inM-
IWsitm KunJi-Cari line S or u lun Tf— Yo lU ttJ e of A bifh> J tl 1 t> ■- Fur* itm trade
ViilaiLie of KiL^LKl'^ndan tndr* — QbM qc3c-h i u foiti%n InelftLumtK The

ftllUTi; + a m ■ ir * i * - * * »

534

CHAPTER XXX

HHiTlitfl AVI) miA^ PD Lit! V l?i w 1A

Koreijirn juilEcy nt Persia. Afghanistan —Turkey— Rii^b and Great

llrUahi- -Preface to ilL^-ussion nf rival patkics - ELelshIjui absorption of
Persian mil — AjMCetMkmcy nu the north and nurtli-went— rtafltion in the
uorrli-mst — Conr]. ee eat of Turko mania — -Effect of the TninR^pian iLiiL-
w-ax Syn 11 [win of H i in'riini posii i on—Aggre-:-i \ 1 ■ rl r *igm Evidence of t lie
■Xot'Oe Vfuniyjs 1 — Kn&dan M-rvJo«^ to Persia - Otlkinl torn^huniUon An
eve on the Unlf — Rmsinn !u£lio- Former Pt'f-djiii apLbio&--Russian
yllitnile towards internal reform — X 0 jmrt ideal inn for torritomd aggrea-
>km ur for designs on tfrg Oiatf —Persian wtsdroes* English interval
En pErrfin— Mereunt sic hbpert&J— HMnry of Angl^FcrxiAh —

Fourfold dm.don — Im leu En Topain Tele graphic scheme a. ( 1 ) Tntkfiih line
— (2) Per*!an line <:t) Eus.diiii line— (4) Xuw [Hdo-Eiirti|;K-;Ln line— (fl>
J5Uiirii;irjiie Chide India-'PenL-m -cniE-us — ^cjiH ami bildnes- — JiiIItjijicc
upon l'crasa — Cotisolfrlnt t - • h of royal authority— FVionflET relations-
Suggested empInJrtiK'nt of lehigrapb iiilloiflli-Worlt ihe dnk'fcmnn
and nba inercliariL Policy i>r lin^it Britiihi E^rili-li a^endunny in tin-
•■’cnlln:? cmd KiAtli- Pnlklr inftnem-- at Trdieran EtL^i-ftn Inidlinnue -
Hri[E-ill liold ovlt Southern Persia—Q U ration L ,f ihn Jjr^tLou establi^li-
fflfltit Impediments to reform Odigda rd good ahwr- Progref^ alrc.idy
mnrle — The ^acccs-ioft- Ferniad character — /hKHA hritr . . «

I MILK

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FULL-VAGE ILLUSTRATIONS

1-JiUSTAH : 3HAFt;B AND

L' K W ETilllV AM* lIO^tTK &? KLM
SECTION OF FjOEON-TOWKE

Royal Squabk At Isfaiiah

>IVAJm-lSHA3[ + IflFAIIAtf

fi n an fti - Situs * *

Hahiis^eh- i-siiati HrtE r N
FuL-I-KHjUV *

AUIEKXIAN CaTUEDUAL AT JtTLtA
Thxdikiiabt „ .

Tusu-i-Aluaui- Ak IeAE, Shthaz
PANORAMA or SlUHAZ.

FuUHTfl HAJMIKiJftP AT NAKSIi

Valerian ,

Panorama OF PnfiflEFOLlo from the East
Main Htaiecabr +

Colossi of tur Force uf Xeuse* ,

Xobthebn staicca^e: a so Platform of Hall up XekxeB
Com eat or Eesg and GRimx palace of Dahius
Xubtii Doorway—Kali* of a EcntBRSD Couttss ,

Eus OF THE Old WOMAN * r

fiRCASl* OAi-BEWEr AT SlIATrtJB: iNVTSTmTBB OF CtEIADI^

Koi itii llAS-nii lei;k . The Uaftiveb .

RHKA Kum KHAX ASb GROUP or Fxili Lub&

FT [-skis El ix Khan; Yam ar Plwm-Kith, and Son
The UiAKTiTiMii KhaNh r -
Group or Bakiitiadib ON Yttt UP pm Karun .

The Ear Kusas * " *

Sierlkh Mizal Euan
Tojch of R&MHn-mn-YAKv n

Suafue's Bridge at Seunutlr . ....

T# fit&

wax

120

1*1

U54

100

1GG

ITI

212

014

378

280

2HI5

300

310

32G

04#

374

PEBSIA

XII

ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT

MlNAHLT or EjUHAS

aisip &u*p of Kcurcto .

Gate or Alt GaH asT? Talar „

Bkihoh or ali Ydtoj KwA*,

AlHSH-SftUlVH ***,.,*_

TlIK SHARING MlJfiAHim . .

B A S- belie f or CITRUS at Paiaiigau^

Tomb or (Tm:s * *.

Toxn or Sapi
T our- or Hafiz *

Fifth Ha*-rrukf: Equestrian Combat.

Bmami Bas-erijefi ['icuuzm asp Am>K*fiiR .

Ton 11 OF DaMJV* . ♦ * 4 *

Tltifto asp Fourth Kuyal Toh&*

TOM Si (MWeALLEP Ff ftU-TiPlPUC) AT NAAfilM-HlUTAM

Palaitjs or Daiuuh

East Staircase* Palace of \v:nxm

Fill K

i If
■ IT
* *0
> IS

* 4W

* £S

. ir«
. 70

p ior
. iw

* m

. 125
, >WI

- f 41
.■ III

. i m

* Ui

^oi^Tit DuqrWat, Hall or a Humum Columns
Ko hetji Tomb bebtnp Fttsamu* ,

EOUAIM OfJ TIMS PLAIN OF KAZEUIS .

FIIW B*S-RELIEF AT S HA PI C VALERIAS JHUTLIAAT
Fiitii f(Aft-B£L11&F : PnmiKii asp Naiihj^ ,
SoAfKGUAiib os tick Kotal-i-Kawarij .

The Cuus eii Pass „

EaLHTI'T-TCTL „ „

* 2tl

* 217

- 221

* f’£T
- 2*2

BlVEa AND WatlH-HPLLS at lUKFUt.
Merlteakta or Situs eitkb .

Pam asp Mills d* fits Ab-i-Chrbviu

3*5»

273

MAPS

TEltUU TO ISTABAJC
JflFAUAS TO &II111.1 Z -
ULAN DF PgB&KFOLlS
BllLRAl TO ItLfrHIEE .

Baxhtiari CouSeTRV
THE Ka&UN ItlYFH

To fart J

* CO
i IfiO

.. nm
« m

* 330

PERS

AND

THE PERSIAN QUESTION

CHA1TEH XIX

FROM TEHERAN TO ISFAHAN

' 111 on pomp and plcraurp drcpJt within her »nLle.

Tlic nu-ixli&nta Of the J£k*t nml of tin* West
Met £n lier atahoi.1 faunara.

\ All (Iht the active peer

Shewerad m mn\ comfort o’er her thronging niteui*.

I Jitjtinr wa.4 biisv in her lnom*,

Thiwgb all her ojun gate*

Lim^ IriHfcjw of InrieD cntnoln IJtuxI Tiin romr■=>

SOTTHm, Thtifait* tbf. [kitrvyrr, blL Y.

After some weeks spent in the enjoyment of the hospitality of the
British Legation, and in the interesting and often highly-charged
T|]fl political uteri oa [there of the capital» it wtis with no slight
reluctance that I again resigned myself to the tender
mercies of the rbi^r-k}\^mh and the Persian post-horse,
and started forth on my 8(KJ miles 1 ride to the Gulf. In justice,
however? tn u much abused institution anil tmimnl, 1 must observe
I hat along the stretch of road from Teheran to Shiraz, which is
the most frequented in Persia, the former is in a better state of
repair, and the latter is sprightlier in his movements, than in
other parts of the country. Execrable horses end rvn inhospitable
track bad been the distinguishing features of my ride from Meshed
to Teheran. With a tolerable mount, with the chance of European
converge and entertainment in the Telegraph stations, encountered
at distances of from sLactj to seventy inika along the rood, and
with the prospect of great cities and world-famed ruins before him „
with leisure to rest in the ono or to linger over the other, the
VOU II.

PKRSIA

southward journey soon loses the visionary Iioitots with which the
traveller has credited it, and proms to lx- deficient neither in
comfort nor charm. To the student of worts otj Pemn it w ill
present little novelty. It has been traversed by almost eveiy
visitor who bus either entered or left the country on the south,
und it boa oh in any occasions been excellently ami conscientiously
described. 1 There remains for me the task of faithfully depicting
its features as Ihey now exist, and of doing somewhat, fuller justice
to the great and historic cities through which it (lasses than is
commonly rendered by I lie scribe of travel.

fcwbkt Along the first section of the mad. namely, frcmi Teheran
to E.-dnhau. the following is a tabic of the posfc-honses
and distances:—

Simriil ■MtW

Hltippo

/rirtoMi

A|i|uv>i.|,
lltnH 1
• LI-Ulir-l-
Eh lulli -

Suits Itf <whlif

DLifeirpix

/rtfJsklAt

.AHpm 4 l-

IfigUv

liLstmrfi’

En wEIr#

T*lu?mnf ( 3 H &j 0 fr + )
Bobftt Kertm , .
nk a . - * * ¥
Ewhk-l-Bftlinut]
RohMibiv). „
Emf ( 3,100 ft.)
fiuangitu . H .
Mu . + + . .
Kittlum (it.Sijip ft.j.

—

i :

2 b

Hulmii] ft,),

lUiJe^hk (S'ytrii f j
ftnrdmkhiir, . .
G« „ . . * . .

Malum t (o :uh>

t b.).

Juirx . „ , , .

Total ...

2 ft

2 $

3 SI

2 S 3

* “ Tefagnffc utlltlons.

Ihrec roads teed, or have been followed in recent times, from
iciiernn to Kum, a distance of abort ltJO miles ■ and the history
W, i„ of their competition has in it something peculiarly Persian.
ii uhi 4:.9rti- ^ rs *- of tliesti rondu is the old caravan track, which

"“‘■T 16 .™ pursued by every traveller up till the last decade,
and has been frequently described, ft left Teheran by the .Shah

ticcmid J'uirur,i 'em **■ Scritr (1800), /1r*t Jatmrrj, cap, i.; (IStl)

OomIl'v (IBlDV^’i -rt ' 'i Woleolm (IR10), $**«*✓*. caps. xUv-wi.; Mr W,

i*. x. s ir n. K ; t° hn ? v (i6n) * • "i>-

jw™,.,, inflt A 7 ,,„J', , 8 *■ TnL PP. 3W-40S; .1. Ii. Fraser Ciatl),

«? *• H Binning (mi), f ^ <l<4<9, JW '' ™ L 1 m

fUHH JiitfrujH v , a Trartti Tul, iL enp^, miL-tyviji.; ,1.

J- HMMi{»T4), / !Mllb,, 'T('*Bjh life Adrr*t*tvm, caps, i* -xi.i

Pi-rtiti T ! ™ M '' I1S rt ^ : A ■*»** (187S), TKn^k

Mra.Wrtlp L «SSj“2^i **"“ WruLlf0T U

TEHERAN TO ISPAHAN.

shi mi

^jLi.h jm i't ii -i 1

JJ f jj

i*« QtBAt ' V

f Hi' -/

FHOM TKIIERAN To 1st aIIA\

Abdul A?.im gate, passed the- shrine of rtunl name. and proceeded
to the village of Kinnregird (Le. Border-town), soon after which
it entered a sucrea-non of barren and gloomy defiles known as the
Mafck-ehMuut Daroh. nr X 'alley oi' the Angd of Death,* so called
because thesuperstitious fancies of the Persians infested it with
jins and ghouls and fabulous sha^-s of monsters- 1 This pttss T which
in no sense differs from scores of others in Persia, and is a hundred¬
fold less rugged and repellent than many. has impressed the
Ettrupeen traveller in a variety of ways; for, whilst the romantic
Ker Porter saw in it only * a dun and drmvthv vale/ Sir J r Malcolm*
for once forsaken by sound *eiise, described if as containing 1 the
most frightful precipices and ravines be hod ever seen/ Ou
^jiiitt Log the mountainous tract, the mad debouched upon tlLe
HuiiE-i-Sultan, or Reservoir of the King, where was a caravanserai
containing a tank that was fed by several Jtanui* on the northern
outskirts of the fcarir* This fcin> t or salt desert, ww commonly
regarded as the most winterly hay ■ nr estensfmi of the Da~hl>i-
Kavir. or Great Salt De-.ut of northern lVi>i:s„ and must have ap¬
proached, fusilier to the east, if it did not actually join* the Dariiw-
Neuiek. or Sea nf Salt, which has been for the Hvst time brought
to light in ilie present year. 3 Popular legend avers that the sea,
which is supposed to have covered the whole expanse^ dried up on
tin- birth of the Prophet: but attribute* the still surviving swamps to
the sweat fchal poured from the bn >w of Shatnr*lhe murderer of the
mi nt! y H u*ein. who lln 1 lo thi h w i 1 den it- --in r he agt my of an in¬
expiable ivinuim After traversing the k*wir w which was over ten
miles hi width, the road eroded the Kant Sit. or Kara Choi river
by the Ptil-i-DeUak. or Barbers Bridge, a stone structure either
erected or repaired by some famous barber of the past, commonly
Hiipposetl fco have officiated in that capacity to Shah Abbq±e 4 It
then proceeded to Klim*

The second mod, which i~ followed by the wires of the Xndn-

1 .Trmr ninli ii. fi hu^ ljtfiJ ftj^Xflitoiy quuTi:iL - A* luid of tleftrtti and uf pits,
ft iftjifl of drought find t>f death, n land that Ptf ZXUmpimad thnJUgk

and where no mnn dwells/

* Far local lepeurLs about it, ride ^latiiolni'ii $&ficfoew t cap. XV I., elIu! R. B.
ninp, Two Yntr* TVflwt vuL IL 20% r

1 RJf eip. xiiii,

1 Sir It Km Sartor is al hi* very beet m dfelQfibitig tilt-* fitn.Ci-lonnrj , a wboevri
In: may halo becn H a* 'lisc publlc-Spwiicd beirhrr smd Iwncsl u haver, ftjofrU
Dowlfti* 1

PEE&EA

European Telegraph, is the to-called cnrrmge^roud before spoken
of, that vvu- constructed In the father of the present Afflinn^
a- Ciirw^o SuJtwi in 1B83-84, am! was originally supplied nr intended
row * to be supplied with ^ service of frfes/mr aiid .fawufjfriw**
For the more Eifffiieut pilgrims to the sacred shrine. For their
cornfovtj too t a series of magnificent tile-fronted caravanserais
(ranted by the present Amin-e^Sultun) wpn- erected ar Alinbod*
Mmimrieli, and Kum t the distant being as follows: Teheran to
Hoeeinubad tVix Aliabad (eight). Mttnzarieh (five). Kum

(six) ; total, twenty-five or muety-ODU nriles. The carriage

^mce appear to have been a fiulnnp, or at least to liave been
inadequately patronised from the start; but as this section of the
road haw now iwcn purchased from the Amiii by the uraoctation who
are responsible for the new Tdieiuu-Burujiid-SIiusliter wagon-
road, there is a chance of itw being projM? rly organised and worked.

Kow, however, occur* the interesting part of the story* &hj n
after the construction of the new road, the (ratar of which 1 have
Tiie nrtr ppo-b-n. und ncrus* which ran the old caravan truck. Vie-
vame covered with a suit lake of considerable mi #: a
phenomenon wliidt excited such general interest that it wo^ vinlted
by the Shall, and received the honour of a description from the
royal pen in the Iran 1 of May 10 and It 1 , 1888,, which was fnins-
luted by General Schindler and published with a map in the
Proceedings of the R/IJ3- 1 Hir- Majesty discreetly attributed the
formation of the lake to ■ waters bubbling up in the foivir like
fountains from underground;' but it must be added that other and
less foituitocis explanations prevail According to me account, a
ilmn on t hr Kura Chiu below the Publ-DrEIak burst in 1888 , ro
that the waters of the river poured through the gap into the
depression of the if mV, But accordfog to another and the more
probable version, the dam did not collapse of it* own accord, hut
was intentionally cut by the Amin^es-Sultan or hi? agents, in order
to swamp the old caravan track, and force traffic anil travellers on
to the now road and into the new caravanserais, Anyhow, there
is the lake; 1 and an it new revives the overflow of two riven? ,

1 YuL K, (1S&1>), pp_ £]"i_633.

-Tim .SlinL s.ni '1 it i_* :VS fnriulht, or ISO miles, in cirdmafAfencg TLis (Hi J]
ridbmloai ruggomtiaii, Thai (hr- lake, or rather a lake ,m the spot, is not b[ l
nltojiBther UOVol phenomenon I* -vl.itnt from Mou n-,.-r, Journey through th*
p. 17,1. IW c[\)?s*d tl.e foriv on March 29, tsCG. and foiiUil ll rowrtd
by a lakti cfurlv a inlk btond, niter the limiting of the snow.

FROM TEHERAN TO ISFAHAN 6

tin* Kara I'hai ftnm Saveli, and tin* Hud-i-Aiuivbur (sometimes
miscalled Ab-i-Khonsar mid Al*4-J«.TbftdegJHi) ftwn Kmn, there
it is likely to remain.

But the Aiiiin-eS'Sultnn, having snccesafillly defeated the old
caravan-route, had yel to deal with the postal authorities and the
a utuipcr service; and hero a further disagree in cut liet iveen

5i-T " him ami the Aimn-ed-IWvb. Minister of Posts, in said
to have been the reason for which a third mail started into MMt-
ence. still more to the west, and at the time of my visit to
Persia, hi 1889, was taken by the dapar rider to Kum. lhls
w»a tJio track that 1 pursued, 1 Leaving Teheran by the liamudaii
Gate, it follows the main caravan-route to ii»c west, to a httle
bevond the village of llobat Kerim, the single wire to Baghdad,
originally erected by English engineers, and afterwards handed
over to the Persian Government, taking the same direction.
At about sixteen miles from Teheran I crossed the slen cr
strcaiii of the Knrij, flowing in a deep figure between high
banks, by a inugfo-amhed bridge, Bobat Kerim « »
gling village with u filthy ditch running down the main street.
Thence the road to Pit b as devoid of interest ns it is wholly
destitute of life; although running as it does over a level
expanse, it b a welcome stage to the ehipar rider. Uw ranges
of hills enclose the plain on either side ; and towards own of these
the track wi nds, plunging into a series of rolling hollows and un¬
dulations about four wiles before reaching P£k. Demavend and
the Elbure range wen* always behind toe, the one snow-rolled, the
other snow-besprinkled; and with every quarter of an hour they
took on a different light, from pink to ashen grey, through all the
dwindling gradations of rose and saffron. os the afternoon died
down into dusk. At Pik 1 found a cJi'ipur-kh'miJ' with two sepa¬
rate towers anil hah-khn^h*, one of which had the nsunl overplus
of open windows nml flipping nutkut doors, 1 rom there the irtick
cuts across the surrounding fields in an easterly direction, and
enters a low peas in the surrounding hills, down the further slope
of which runs a stream strongly impregnated with suit, on its way
to the new lake, which dashed before roe in the morning sun, its
borders marked by a glittering fringe of saline scum, 1 may here

' it hi* rim* becu ,u(,eTwAcdby * more dirwT. white, starting frem Teheraaby

tlii 1 old cxinwjiE.tnir 1 k n'« KLiuirt’ioriS, and jcdjlirtg ILl CSIpring'-'-njail; lliu t*Kal
dji* Lance bring sis 21fur$aMt,

PERSIA

quote, a* a sample of His Persian Majesty a stylo, the passage in
which lie described the surrounding scene:—

At this t&MOn i April) when most of the crime Eg IlmI brought forth
their young, the greenness of the plains, the dmme^ of the air, the
lake and the reflection of the sun on its water* p the vTurtness of the
plaiin the many camels and their young, the camel men and their
children who were all busily tending the cmnek, the black tentu of the
Nomads, the many flicks of sheeps wLich w ere grazing in the plain,
were wonderful to sec.

Skirting the west shore of tilt? lake the cn fringe-mad from
Teheran is here first, encountered* driven in a bee-line across the
valley (which is about sixteen miles in width), ami joined by the
thapar route on the crest of list; further liilL On descending from
this ridge by nn easy pass on the south, we come to the magnificent,
nmr eunvu^'nii of Mkuajirieli, with gorgeous tile-covered facade
nnd emblem of the Lion and sculped in atone. Further
clown, and just before reaching the solitary post-house of I tab met-
aikid* the river Kara f'Siai, which flows from Saveli, 1 is crossed by
a prodigious stone bridge, the most solid cunstructioti of the kind
that I had so far seen r Another low" ridge is climbed, another
valley opens nut, toward h the southern end of which extends the
belt of mingled brown and green that in the Last signifies a large
city. Above it. the mm Haines on the burnished cupolas and the
soaring nilunrs of Fatima’* mosque. As we approach, the tiered
buildings ]nom larger, and are presently seen to consist of two
domes overlaid with gilded ] flutes and live lofty minaret dig posed
in two pairs and a single standing in close proximity to E-he larger
dome, Emerging from small chimps of trees. or standing in eoli-

1 Ait eh 1 j iMcftstiftff m Kdflsr Motto Fo lo% 4 city nf Sabo* from, whioh flm
thru* Magi bill float wliea they trubt io woeship Jt-rfUl Christ \ and in till* city they
are hnrM, m three very btrpe and E^enatlful monument b. aide hyskkv A ail ubcvo
them, there Is a M|tmre building. carefully kept. The bodies are stilt entire. wlUi
( ho hair nnd beard remaiTilng ' (YuhfV JAiftO /We, vol. i. p, ?:*)_ Thu lacollsnth m
of tl5C tomo of the .Maul ftt Saveli ftre*c r no doubt, firm ;i purely nrbitmry Mirth.
cmEari oft]]* text in the Frthiu (teiti, 10>- - The kin#* of Tlmrsis and of ihu bdr*
^bnil give prawnfe ; Ibe kin^ of Arabia acid &lIi* rtiJlII brill g trifts ' whence it
wa-i supposed thiiT nine of them came from Taiskin Extern Turkestn n s the

it4 ' m AmLm.and the thin I .. Havok No fmee of either tin- supijkhiw or She

byvml U found in the pifcus of any l eveller io Perkin iraWjbent to Mnreo Pule

bM | lp r tot, when he n«k«d the people- no otic knew

wiytlnoir except t-bat there wm three khw who weiu buried there la <Uva of
nlfl. ( I vfr KeitU Abbott (IMA th* li.G.S., « 1 . ov. r j, I-A-'.,,.,,

Staibitiie Dldtfarfay ( 1 B# l), I*,™. cap# L. *.) ** ' ^

FROM T FI I KUAN TO ISFAHAN

tary prominence uiv to Lie seen the conical tiled roof# of scores of
inuim&tdeh* enxued Over the remains of famous saints atnl prophets,
whose bones have been transported hither and In id to refit- in the
consecrated duat of Kuna There were formuriy «ud to bo over
‘tOO of these structures in and around the city, Some of them
aiv in gnod repair, and contain beautiful panel* ur lintel-hand^ of
titer! with Kuftc inscription* from the Kama. Others art* in a slate
of shocking mill* the blue tiles having peeled off Their cupolas,
upon whose Bumxniis repast" enormous storks 1 tiesta. The landscape
It-, framed on the south by ei range of hills d’ splintered outline and
peculiar sterility, whose forbidding aspect is in harmony with the
traditional and fanatical superstition of the holy city. 1

The approach to the town lies through richly-cultivated fields $
mid at the very end of the mad, which supplies a vista thereto,
(lashes the holy Fatim&V domes Immediately outride th.^
g^tes flow#, in the direction of The new lake, the Rud-
i-Anarbar* which is crossed by a substantial bridge of nine
arches. Some of the houses on the further lunik have two
stnreyfij with windows and balconies overlooking the stream—a
mure advanced degree uf exterior embellishment than is usually
attained by Persian domicile*. The remainder of the city,
viewed from the outside, consists of a multitude of squat clay
domes* the roof of nearly every building being shaped into half a
dozen or a dozen pf these pratnbenmeefl. L traversed I he ent il e
length of the bazaar on my way to the ehainto^khanek, which,
having recently been shifted, is now situated in a caravanserai
opening out of the bazaar. The latter te vaulted throughout p and
consists of one long alley, with a few parallel mid transverse ables*
The roadway i* brood, the shops large and woll-fora Lebed* and the
jofitie of human beings, camels, donkeys, horses, and cattle, was
greater than I hud yet seen in Persia* I Huteeqaently retraced
my footsteps to see as much of the mosque as is permi^ihlo to a
Christian and eui unbeliever. Outside its eacupoling wall extends
u VMt necropolis, adorned with thousands of stone drib* and
crumbling mounds. A conjuror liad .selected thii incintgraous
spit ari Ins theatres, and was holding spell-bound a large crowd. 1

i I I,,. eluioc Kam i* fane i full J. trtll Improbably* rlejirtd from AhA-j-iwf** uionn*
lain flEwppCTt a (Bin ml which i- LLEdcubU-dlj fonpil fa tba atljact-EH hflU. il«-
m tinnL is*mo wjls KtralDdan, or J&unalaia, juu! it whom of vEUgtffl which,
in the eighth umtDTJ A.D. P WOT Furmfil into a town, and Culled Kim,

PUBSJA

rude up to the gateway of The big court of the mosque and, gating
m + not without attracting a large concourse of the curious, could
see an immense quadrangle, with arched and t ile-faced recesses all
round the walhj and a tank for abiotic™ in the centre, Fraser,
in 1821 T entered the mosque in diagufaie, riml visited the tomb-
cbamK-r, A Dr. Jlicknell, who hud already In-on lo Mecca, made
a similar entry in lH6Q t disguised as a Hnji. Arnold, in 1875,
hal ing entered the outer court, remem tiered that discretion is the
I letter pm* ofvBbur, and beat u retreat ■ while any less adventurous
Giaour must be content with what he oaa set* through the open gate,
hum is tiie site ol the second mqet sacred e-hriue in Persia,
und the Westminster Abbey of many of her kings* J have already
HMjjry of the aolkiiouJi regard for the welfare of bin

devotees that led the Imam Resu to scatter his relative*
while living, and their corpses when dead, throughout the conn try
that he loved *o well. At Kum are drposired the remain* of his
lister. Fatirna-el-Ma*uioa, Le. the Emmaculate, who. according to
one account, liver! and died hore, having fled From iJnghdad to
escape flu- persecution of the Khalil*; recording to another,
sickened and died at Kum, on her way to sec her brother at Tub,
He, for hi a part, is believed by the plena Shiahs to retnm the
compliment by paying her a visit every Friday from his shrine at,
Mashed, Kum 1 appears to have existed from an earlier period,
although we may be absolved from accept ing the legouihuy Persian
fiitindntiori fay Tuhmunts or Kai Kobai It wm not, however, till
it became the sepulchre of the ill ustri tuts Fatima, nor, .after that,
until the Shjuli fuiih hud become the national religion, that (be
town attained its reputation for especial sanctity. It way, of
wttiw, aricked by Timur, ami Inis been in a state of greater or le*s
ruin ever since. As the quaint Horton phrased it, 1 in the Sable
weed she k rtill aprpnrellud ; for great Coom i$ now ouely mwjid
iwmitdx itmhmJ Nevertheless, under the patronage of the St*lavi
sovereignty the city revived ; line quay- adorned the banks of the
river ; exteimve bazaars zind handsome caruvansemifi received or

1 Hum turn btu n dEhL'rlfacd greater «i b-u Iwigth bv a ^q&^nion of emLaeiit
tniTOllm t whda E hiueitt ireqaantlycil^i rim I ni>i*l dirt TMii|HLa!anf Hi™

I ert: bir T. Hi-n.,-rr J, B. Tavernier ilim\ Sir J, Chardin («V ft i 6 jm

J $[ru>= (IS71). Cr Le Bmii (IfOSJjl3Lr J* Mataolzn (liujo), J. 1\ >i & ner 'ngosh*
!?jr J. II, KiandrCm^p Sir \\\ On* Icy (IWJI), Sir il, Ki-r fy>rtcr miy) J a
Kmecr IL IS. Vtindtog tW). J- Us*her (IBM), Golfiliel Etmu Siniib

Mr* ItEshcpp (1390).

.‘Hkh-piPM-hi-^ 1Tn imyntH H ill* i.-HU

FR(IM T El1 ERA X TO 1 £f\\ 1J \ X

dispen&ed a considerable trade ; and the shrine wa| added to and
adorned by the devout munifitaQDO of eucce^ivr sovereigns.
Cbardin mkl that in his day the city contained 4 houses,.

\iA the people say ; T but u measure,. both to our own credulity and
to the local hyperbole* i* set by the earlier Herbert and tlw later
Le Bitiii. who unite in crediting it: with only 2,000 hotitttft, albeit
thfiflfl wore ‘wd-built. sweet, and wel-furnidied/ In 1722 it
found in the Afghan* an even more ravage enemy titan it: hud
experienced in Timur, and was all but destroyed* A century later
Fraser still described it as 1 a wretched muss of mins/ ItH popu¬
lar ton was estimated as 1,000 in 1872, nnsl so 7,000 in 188-1: and
when later lints hare returned it as 20,000 to 30*000 pentane 1
imagine that the discrepancy is to be reconciled by regarding nhe
smaller total an tin- jwrnianetit, and the higher sl- tile llurtttflting
populatlmi, which is much swollen by pilgrims.

Front the seventeenth century onwards Kum has been Its high
favour m the sepulchre of many of the Persian kitigii. Here
Royuj repose the bodies of Shall Safi L, Shall Abbas II., Shah
Suleiman, and Shah Sultan Htisein of the Sclav i dynasty 5
and here, among the Knjar monarchy have been laid the remain. 1 ?
of Path Alt Shah (with two of hin; sons*) in a separate building in
the outskirts of the town, iiud of Moliiuuincd Shah* Other
sovereigns in 11 at also have been interred in the same spot.; for the
Persian records speak of the graves of 44 1 :?Jiint.s and princes,
mid of ten kings. ^ >ver their bodies, enshrined in magnificent
sarcophagi of alabaster, of marble and ivory, of ebony* and camphor
wood inlaid., which are covered with rich drape rite* mullah# day
aim night read passages from the Keren* But of small account T it
may be imagined, in the pilgrims eyes* Ls even the my at dust,
compared with that of the fjady Fatima iiereelf.

rhunliu, Tavernier, lx- Brim* and others have given minute
descriptions or illustration* of the principal shrine; of which
shrine ur Herbert obscurely remarks that * the mesquit. is of
EpLrotsqne form. 1 It is preceded by several courts, the
outermost of which is planted with trees. From the inner or
principal quadrangle twelve marble steps lead up to the enclosure
containing the saint's kmib. Three large doora, one of which in
overlaid with silver plates, open into an octagonal chamber beneath
the gilded dome.

In tlie rmht uf 111 at chappel the tomb of Fatima, overlaid

l'EKSI.V

wiLt) tiles of L'liiini, painted k | a Mores**, nod ovenpread with cloth of
gohl tlrnt luings down to the ground on every side. It is i-uclo«<d with
u gate of mikagy silver, ten foot high, distant half « fuot from the tomb,
and at filth corner crowned as it were with large apples of tine gold.
fvHenil breadths of velvet, hung about the iiuido of the gate, hide it
from the view of the people, so that only favour or money can piw un¬
it sight of it. Over tlic tomb, a I taut ten foot in height, hang several silver
vessels, which they call uandil, being n sort of lamp, iiut they never
ligln. up any tire therein, which they are not made to hold, nor any
sort of Li<|uor, ah hoi luu itig any lottom. Upon the grate hang several
hiBorlptioM In letters of gold upon thick veHoms, as large ns a large
sheet of paper, which inscriptions contain the elegies of the saint and
her fjuuily. 1

It is wbtm be asce tills the twelve marble steps tlwt the pilgrim
removes hi* shoes, ami leaves behind his staff or his arms. Then,
ho emens, he kneels and kisses the thnsdiuld. Again he kis&e*
the silver roils, through which lie peers at Lhe shroudetl Harcti-
phagtis ; he breathes' the prescribed prayer*; ami with further
genuflection and salutations, and fees to the hovering muiiaU , ho
retires. He is one stop nearer to heaven.

For its present splendour of golden cupola and t ile-encrusted
minors the shrine is indebted to the reigning family. In his
Kvsuint- early life Fath Ali Wliuh registered a vow that should he
ever succeed to the throne, he would enrich Kuni, and
relieve ire people of taxation. It is more than doubtful whether he
ever carried out the hitter pledge, though 1m gave the city and
district os a private estate to his mother; bat his promise as to the
slirim- was amply redeemed. He stripped off the tiles with which
the dorm- hud hitherto been covered, and replaced them with
plates of gilt copper; he erected a neighbouring wt dftmeh or
religion a college, with endowments and quarters for luu students;
lie built nt Kunt » hospital and a i>u&ma»4thaii<ih or inn ; he was
*aid to have spent 100,000 toman* annually upon the shrine; wlw-u
ho visited it. he always came on Unit ; mul when he died, hard by
his body was by his ordere laid to rest, L. more recent times a
second dome h:i^ been gilt; a dock wo* erected by one of the
royal prims m who was Governor of Btunadan; and the glittering
elrgance of the large court into which 1 gazed wa, due, as 1 heard,

* /mrr/M of Sir J, dmrdio, p J[>4, Hater, hu waver, in 1HSI {Jbwnvw mt*
A W" r, ,.j, t.w). ^jod that the tomb wo*i„ * teudU.tvoJ bo*, is fetL
S p and - to H fet-t high. JIili jlIvlt gnlliDg b htjjfc ih^rv.

riLOM TEHERAN TO ISFAHAN

]]

to n jvsroration bj the Inti- Amiirts-SultaTi* In one of lie
wnctnpries S- an inscription to All, ibo n-fivslimg originality \*f
wIll'Ii entitles it to be quoted. It nine tliu>: ; Ob. mcxpxc&d bh>
man ! By iln-e, In I ruth, Em Nature anriclwd and adorned ! Had not
thy perfect self been in ilit- Creator** thought, Eve hod remained
for ever a virgin, send Adum a bachelor/

Kuih is imWii tie possessor of a situation that might appear,
at first sight, to recommend it for tic capital city of Persia, it
*fcnuds upon a river; it occupies jl very central pud non ;

' tsi> and it is fcbc meeting-point of many important roads,
from Tela‘run, from Kazvin, from Sultan tdiad and Bqmijifd, frotu
Yeztl, and from Isfahan- It contains one of tie two only inn^ or
hutela in Persia that tmr worthy of the name,-—a fine building
standing in dose proximity to the niosqnv, On tic other land,
although there i& a river, the watersuppty is inadequate for n great
city; and the heat in summer is excruciating. The city Inis been
Ihmou.H in past and present times chiefly for its melons and
cucumbers, if.^ armourers. its. shoemakers. aiul it* long-necked
earthenware jars fi?r cooling water. Of tjj.- last-named Chardin
observed:—

This ib peculiar to the white ware which is thence transported, that
in the ^imimer it cools the water womledully and very suddenly by
reason of continunE trumplration. Sc that they who desire to drink
cool and deliciously ne^T drink in ibe suae pot above five or six days
at mast. They wanh it with rose water tho first time, tu take away
the ill small of the Earth • and they lang it in the air full of water*
wmpt up In a moist linen cloth, A faun! jjart of the water transpires
in mx Hour* the finds time, after that, still less from day to day, till at
last the porrjs ate closed up by tI if- thick matter contained in the water
which stops in lie pores. But so soon as the pow aro stopped* the
water stinks in the pots, and you mmt take new ones.

As might he- expected bom so holy n place, the population
contains a large number of wyidi—fanatics inured to long
impunity of conduct—and i~ much addicted to bigotry
n*|iHH]|>ir superKtition, No Jews fir Parfcis Live here; and

English ladies, resident In rhn Telegraph offices,, have usually found
it prudent to veil in public. These snperi^itlomi jub now dying
feat throughout the East; hnt Knm ia one of tl w places where an
accidental spark might -still be Canned into a disagreeable (lame.
Its title of Dnr-el-Ainau or .Seat of Safety is m indication chat its

PERSIA

shrine is a particularly favourite sanctuary for Mussulman refugees;
and many is th<- malefactor who has escaped retribution by a flight
to the inviolate asylum of its walls. Apparently; too, the gtKx]
folk of Kum are without honour in their own country ; for them
Is a Persian proverb that says: * A dog of Kushan i* better l imn a
noble of Kuin, albeit a dug is belter than a irsnn of Kuahnn/

III leaving Knm, ii took mo tlnv^e-quarters of nn Hour to get
quit of the muse of intricate afcmt* mid alleys of which the greater
p^ Ll j part of tlip city outside the kjmsuar is composed, and to

™ i emerge upon the open country. There a fast go Hop

on 1111 excellent little burs- conducted me to the jtost-lion^e of
Fasangtm, standing, with a cnmvansetaij, near the base of a mngo
of hills on the suutb-east. Skirting sliis iunge, the track now
becomes very stony, ih* 11 cros^ a stream* passes the big eani-
vanasrai of Shu mb (sal! watery which was built about eighty
years tig*\ and winds by a long and arid puss; through the range,
till it debouches upon another plain, whereon the *‘h<ip-u r -k}uuwh
and caravanserai of Sin sin (erected by the Amiu-ed-Do wleh t u
prominent minister of Path Ali Shall) are sitoared immediately at
the loot of the hills. SJiiiin was once a flourishing place, but was
ruined by the Turkomans at the end of the lost century—to such
a distance did those incorrigible freebooters (of the YouiuL trfljo in
this instance) push their marauding expeditions. Malcolm, on his
way up to Teheran in IS 1 G, himself converted with one of the
survivors of the catastrophe. Thence, over a perfectly level ex¬
panse, we press forward to Kanban, thin wreaths of smoke in the
distance betraying the existence of the city nl the base of what is
sometimes called, for want of n general title, the Kuhrud range
(from tliii■■ village of which I shall speak presently), but h in reality
a spur^f the sumo mountain system that continues without a break
from Eaahan iu Yesed* ami thence to hVmiun.

Local tradition juicribcs tin- foundation*'f Kashan 1 to Zobeidcli^
the wife of Hanin-cr-Rashid* But it appear*, certain that the town
K ( existed much earlier; for there is In a native liktocriem a
reference both to Kmhmx and Knm as having contributed
a force of 20,000 soldiers to the army of the Inst Saeaonim
monarch ; and some Imve seen in the name a contraction from

1 l-'i.-c KfLElinn, in wMEuuil la lha JuLihbdtkfi in llm riiNj of KeeId tidt

Olearius <1637), Sarratirr vf Embody ; John ltd! (1717), Trails; and Madams
Dictdifoy (1 I j„ Lii lW*r.

1 \\A*M TEHERAN Tu ISFAHAN

Ktri*iufhttirty < t Kmg^ dwelling. From u very remote period
Kachan appears to have been famous for five tilings; the industrial
aptitude of its inhabitants. its silk manufacture^ its brass and
copper utensite, its earthenware or /aieum?* anil its scorpions.
Geoffrey Ducket. one of the English tactora who sailed to Persia in
the fifth venture of the Brit is li Muscovy Company in the sixteenth
century* 1 went up to Kaaban in 1573 and reported it to be; —

A town M jiii consiAteth altogether of mArchatmdbe, and the besl
trade of all the lande is there, beyug greatly frequented by tb<
merohavintEtH of radio* The townc is much to b*> commanded tor the
civill and good government that h there used* An idle person is not
su tic red to live amongst them. The chi Ido that is but five jeeres olde
1 $ fc4't to voxtu* labour. Ploying at dice or carries m by the kiwi* pie^nt
deaths

John Cartwright f preacher, in lG0ft P rallied it * the very magozeeu
and mrohonsv *<l all the Persian cities for etnffvs/ 3 Sir TV Herbert
in 1027 said :—

Hill imblo city is in eouipariiifiii not lews than Yurk nr Norwich,
nljout l f OOO frimiiieo being Accounted in her, A more mduatrioiw mid
civil People or a town bet.Lev governed Pei’siu elsewhere bus not. The
( ■arpiv jinH-ni^ r is ati iiopaxallePd fabriik, and precede- all other I saw
in Persia P

Ciianditi also spoke of 1 the Royal lnii T built by Abba* the Great/

h the liiic^* In all Persia, 1 and said thaS in his day the city had
a double wall* fivv gates, ChaOO houses (including the suburbs),
forty mosques, three colleger, and 200 sepulchres of Key ids,

Hie silk$> sating velvets, and brocade of Kashan have long
been faniou* throughout the Bast, hi former 1 time* the silkworm
li.nmim was largely cultivated in the migliboijrhrv*L and then?
tuaoroH furtlirr ei considerable import of raw material from

Gilan. A number of beautiful silk, and silk with cotton* fabrics are
still manufactured hero (or which the shawls called Huwfri Kali
Khmii t from the name of some early designer nr patron, are jierha^ts
the most artistic textile production of Persia), ns welt a* vehvfca
with a peculiar mottled pattern. The pierced and inkid brass

1 For further detail ride a inter ohaptar on Ptrsiun Conum-n e,

= Early Vt^ofr* in Mania and Petti *i (HaUujt Society), vet. i| + p* Itt.

■ PiBrchaa* Ptfyrtmi, mol. iL Hb_ b, flip.

* S'mr Ymrtt' Tntr*b. p, ^ Tk«? Royal CjinmiucEid \ms long ago fallen
into ruin.

PERSIA

nwnv

nnd copper wan* mv also- remarkable; and Khshau is the gn*t
native manufactory of domestic utensils in copper. Former! v the

metal was procured from
Sivas in Asiatic Turkey, rid
Krzerrim and Tabriz, but It
ia now imported in bars or
sheets from England. The
bazaar* and busy part of the*
town are in its sou diem
quarter, where rd*> are the?

principal building. consist¬
ing of the Mugid*i-Meidnn T
which contains ft superb
mihraht or prayer niche, in
embossed and enamelled
f(sXmm f n to)I leaning min¬
aret, and vast crtruvnnsentiEi
for the? storage or barter
of merchandise. In 1870*
Colonel Euan Smith re-
jiorted tbe city to contain
X wenty-foor camvansernlH
for the sate of goods, thirty-
tire for the accommodation
of strangers, thirty-four
public batbs T eighteen larger
mosques, and ninety smaller
shrines. He returned Itn
population as &O,0OO—an
n]together exorbitant cstl-
mate, although General
Gtt&teiger Klmcfs cnlcu la-
lion of 0,000 m IBS! is
scarcely less inaccurate at
tbe opposite extreme. In
l835 t Schindler reckoned it
as 30,000, though whore

MTSJ.TE11T LkK SiS thGSB . «*

one is at a loss to Imagii

inspecting what is ootwiwdl? one of tliemost dilapidated cities

k , . * -+ Li

in IVrma. A more funereal place 1 had not Jet Been. Scarce!

v a

FI toll TETfKKAX TO ISFAHAN

1 C

building wes in repair, barely a wall intact. Both the cobbled road-
wny and the house* that lined it. wcrein an *-f|iifvl state of decay, and
h was a* melancholy to seo thi-mn* :ls it was to ride over the other.

Fi-om Krishna, the still attrvivintr name for JVreiiHi earthenware,
v-in, K«*hU‘,feL was derived, and this city, in whose i^Moa
gtKsl clav wait to foe found. as well as colouring materials,
K “ Hhi wm one of tin* chief centres of tin* nidnsliT. A larger
number of t.Ue Until iful vases with iridescent lustre, or re//*-/
fuwuer, which are the most cherished among the curies of Persia, linve
been found at Kflshan than elsewhere,but then- Is nn positive pot
that thev were manufactured here. On Hie other tend, most of
the tiles, so plentifully mid effi-rtiv.-ly employed in tin* decoration
of n,««jues, were burned in Kn&teui ovens. 1

Ii is. perhaps, to mercantile habits, pursued without a break
for centuries, that must be attributed tin- widespread reputation of
tin- Kaelumis for pusillanimity of character. Their fame
in this respect las passed into a proverb, even in a country
where courage did not appear to mo to be popular : and among the
many Stories to which it has given birth, perhaps the W is that of
the 30,000 men of Rushan and Isfahan (a sister-city as regards the
same attributes), who, when Kudu- Shah disbanded Ins smiy on
tln-ir return ftom India, applied for an escort of llW musketeers to
conduct them safely to their Immes. Possibly a somew hat enerva¬
ting effect. in produced by (lie great beat in summer* which Chardin
ascribed to 1 the high muimtam on the south, the reverberaodn of
which so Amount v heats the place in the dog days that it scalds again/
Touching the scorpions, the black Variety of Hasten teswijoyed
n prodigious fame, and was cmimemoruted by El Iutnkhn aa early
ns Ibe tenth century. So venumous was their bite that

. .[■ n ie fumilav forms of expressing hatred wan to prey

that VOUT UW.H1V might either be stung by a Kasteni scorpion or
te mad,- Governor of Gibm. Jului Strays, the Dutchman, declared
that in order to escape three pesta, the people slept m hammocks,
and took an antidote made of filing* of copper tempered with vmegnr
HTid honey But the more popular cure was the homoeopathic ap¬
plication V the oil of the scorpion itself, which was ex I reeled by
frvin- the insect. Olearius. the secretary to the Hulstom Embassy
in 1037 was bitten by a scorpion at Radian and derived great,

■ Forth. rnttn*»«bj.H-l. rWr Kir It. Murdoch SmilVa //iarfWiw JVrtte- Arf;
p fr , ia 1 ■ KwlwftCereuiJc*,' 1? A. Sinmiffin.m

(jJlL* V™eto l mt), PI>. ■ « 1Ml *■**• <**"** Jrf * h * H - *“■** 1B! "'

relief f*> ™ this remedy. 1 Tin-re is u tradition that still survives that
the creatures do not Attack strangers. Imt this modest . .spiny of
hospitality is hardly likely to induce a longer stay than is. possible
in 1=0 iinrattra^tiTE a spot-

About four iuiics to the south-west of Karima, on Hie .dupes of
the mountains, is situated the palace of Fin. the springs of which
P<Iihh' ut h&Ve rendered it a favourite resort of royalty from early
ti"iiShah Abbas built a residence here, but the present
structure. imw in a state of great decay, is the work of Fat-h Ali
Sliah, who made it one of his favourite summer retreats, though
originally intended for hi? brother IJusein Kuli Klitm. Cyprees
avenues, water flowing in marble canals, and jets for fountain h
adorned its gnrdens; a picture of Frith Ali -nd his suns and hunt¬
ing anti battle scene* hung open its walls. Sir d. Malcolm and
his escort were accommodated here on their upward march to Teheran
in 1810. In later times, a gloomier memory has attached to the
palace nf Fill; for here, in 1852, Mirra Taki Khan, the first great
minister of the reigning Shah, and brother-in-law of the king, was
put to death by the Iloyal order, his veins being opened in a bath.
The place is now deserted.

After leaving Keshan, the track rims for a distance of about
sixteen miles over a stony expanse,r arty flat, though with flight
itui..|..[ ri ** m ,li * 50t f,r turnifotliiis. when.- it turns sharply
Sh*h t.o the right and plunges into the main range, Ar a little
distmire it[i the pass, in what the foolish Ker I’orter ile-
scrilwd as 4 a confined dell of this darkling labyrinth, 1 stands the
large dilapidated caravanserai of Gncbrcibnd—a reined settlement
of the 1 Znmost riiins. Here we finally lose sight of the snowy spire
of Demavend, which has accompanied us all the wav from Teheran,
grilling each day in pride and stature as his inferior satellites have
sunk from view, and the tmmarch has stood forth alone with his
crowned head in the heavens. The distance, as the crow files, is
a lil tie over 150 miles, 1 Continuing up the puss, the read enters

‘ Ttie wme notion >ms jinwnDed In countries widely Murad from Perrin
Mudirne r] a Sf.v[^.-, in ll lot ter dated July 8, |«e i ^er'-J t . v .ifl» prie, quni qn’o,,
tllM-, tie Etta fnire de llinile do scorpion, uE[n quo noui twriW on me me t™*
U* fflaui <?e ies ra&fccinetC

= Dam read lia- l-rea vto at mwli grtnUr diriam MwierCJUn* Jim,*™

p. 402) wns telil that it cotta Ijc im. firm, tbo miani f the Slmjid-I-Shah „, L
InfitkAh, ft dislnace of 23*1 mfl«; Imt this, fqrpby iii dmi to, nut be imaa*

sililr. Ocaitiat Xuatefth (PrM. vol iif. p lS) m {vim Mc1|nC gal ,J

above AttIoIjII. a distance of S70 mill*, .Similarly, [>, H. * ., ‘

Vilfr Mount Ararat from Dcrbend on (be Urplan. a dkteoc. f 240 m lie-’ * *

FliOM TEHERAN TO ISFAHAN

a roc T v irurge F which, of course elicits from Purtvr the dr:seriptive
epithefe of c a tromeutlmiH- nbyss% 2111 in^uniioutitabLo pusft^ over-
wbeltnihgly grand, vie mg with any part of the Caucasus for sul>-
n form, hue* fend bearing/ The rhodomoiitode of the worthy
baronet proceeds from eiseli mexhaiistiblo wells that he could attn-d
to leave the tap perpetually running. Presently we arrive at the
great stone tamd of AU Verdi Khxm, Coramandor-in-Cliief under
Shah Abbas and builder of the famous galfcried bridge of Isfahan*
1h]K great structure, which completely blocks k be valley from ride
to ride, damming up Hie watery of a mountain stream iu spring

I’Av AA'D BLIND 0>' KUIIRUD

time, and forming -thereby a late of some depth and size, whose
outflow towards the plain of Krtriian is regulated hy ft riiiice. still
:inswera to tlm description of it left by Tavender :—

Ar. the end of the Valley you meet a great wall which crosses it and
joyiis the two mountains together This wall i* above) 100 paces lung,
above thirty foot thi- 1 md fifty high. It woii the work of the great
HI m Abas, whose derf.,*. It w r os to stop the waters that fall from the
mountain, and to match eqeptsd* for water in that place to serve hi$
camoim. At the loot of thi? wall there is a sluice, which being let
YOL, IL C

PEBSIA

down keeps in the witter ; Imt is pull'd tip to let out the water over all
flip nri^tilxmrmg In ads to the plains nf CsohmiJ

When I pushed in i lit- early winter the bed of the lake was dry, and
such water as remained m tli^ stream was fimen. for at this elcva-
thin, alwjut 7|000 feel, it was very cold. Other traveller- Have re^
ported the reservoir as half-full, or full with the water spilling over
the fount in a fine cascade. In -January ami I 'cbruarv. after the
deep sium> have fallen* the pass, which bebw Kulirnri has an atti¬
tude of 7*250 t and furt her on. at its highest point, of $Jv() feci, is
sometimes impassable.

Above this point t he valley widens somewhat, and, about four
miles further on* enclose* a sticcvsaionof charming orchards thickly
planted with walnut, pear, plum, and apple trees, for the
fruit i«f which Killiml h famous. 'Hie >ighr nf n little
timber was a welcome relief after thr long league* of lNice plain
and brown mountain. iinrl Kulmtri ijs to bft congratulated on it*
snug little bihmitaiicr, which in summer-time is considered a
terrestrial Ihmulfee by the sentimental sons of Tran. Above the
terraced orchards is situated the village—atypical Persian mountain
hamlet of rude houses I]ui 11 one above the other in ascending tiers
upon the side of flu* hill, -itch as I had seen daily in Khurasan, but
not before in Centml lVi>ia. lr The people of Kuhrml and Woh speak
a dialect or patois of their own t containing in any arcliaie words and
idioms, and said by philnlogists to be closely allied to flic Lur
dialect, to the Dari of Y&zd,and to that of Sivend near Perfiepolis- a
Thence for over twenty miles the track lie* tumid the spurs
and ramIHcations of the mountain range, climbing one ridge only
Una-l it. to reveal another bt^yond, naad wearying the lined traveller

iHfaliMi w ith the perpetual new vista of the ^ame mountain maze.

At length the caravanserai ami imposing Telegraph station of Soli
lira lynched, at a {mint where the ridge really begins to dip toward*
the plain nf Mohan* Xfarmkh further are thtrvillage nnd post-
h.ouse of Bideslik* A descent among the lower undulations carries
us on to tho tint, whore a canter can be enjoyed for miles, a thin
streak of verdure in the distant hollow of the plain mariatig the

I Vptfflgr*, lib, 1. cap. Vi

1 1 hnveallH Hm.' ptn^* Kubnd (Lv. Mountain Rtetr), vul^ Kobrud, which
appam to be the ^eiieraUy adapted name? ihfiuRb Kahrtid (ie Lrtui:LiingUivef)
has been raggra'itl, anil K peffcap*. flHftporiiMl, hy the Camu of Chardin.

1 Virfr JL U. Schindler, * TMtri^ mm Kurdfteban Wartudiati^ \ u
d. XL 1HM*

RCTHUi or iTOtOK-TiiWiLM

AL-J

FROM TEEE RAN TO ISFAHAN

It)

vilkg'e of Murcluikbnr, near to which, on November 13 t I 729, Nadir
Shah inflicted :i decisive defeat on the Afghan^ tv ho were soon ex-
pdled roii-t and branch from the country. Here also in 1785 died
_Ui Murad Khun, who enjoyed a brief reign of four years in the
uimrcby that succeeded the death of Kerim Khan Zeiid. A short
rise leads pa>t the large Mader-{-Simlx carav Mineral, built of brick
upon a foundation of Niu-idi etope by the mother of Shah Abbas,
to the crest of a low ridge that separate the plairiH of Murdtakhar
iiud Isfahan. Thence over the fiat we speed m the direction of tJie
Selim capital, already indicated by faint blue hi note-wreaths and
by the con verging lines of innumerable Itmuih. Behind it the
panorama h closed by mountains of striking and irregular outline. 1

As we approach the city the ruo.st conspicuous objects in the
lamtscajH- are a nmnh-T of large circular t- wer^ with smaller turrets
tM K -rn- project ing from their sumriuta. tometimes sixty to seventy
feet in total height, planted in the midst of enclosure*
a ml gardens mi d suggesting to the until tonsil eye ilie fortaliees of
ti feudal I liironage. The real explanation is deplorably material
nnd deficient in the slenderest element of romance. They are
pigeop-ttiwers^ erected for the preservation of the dang and tor the
breeding of those birds, who spend the day afield and return ur
night u i these comfortable Darter-. The photograph winch I
present of a flec^on of the interior will show that the towers con¬
tain an infinite number of cell* * and a well in the middle for col¬
lecting the manure, which L= spread ujH.ua the UKelond^ds in the
surreunding fields. 1 They are opened and cleaned once n year,
but I should imagine (hat tlie damage inflicted on the grain crops
by the depredations of the birds would nil but counterbalance the
profit accruing from the distribution of their guano* Iii Char-
din's time there wore reckoned to be 3.000 of these pigeon-tower*

1 F nun Klimts to tui LilleniAtivK!, but mors dnoltolU, malm runs to

the iiaat rrrj Nuiarii. It vra* fcllemjd and described by sanml of tins MverUeenlb
ccmtlnr tnv^netv, fcig, John Stray* <Dj 72). Tton-fr H Ca|i f XXX+* and C, Lft Limn
{l7£3) k Trarrh, cn^- xrxPFfl. tionajHlta A. IF. Schindler (IliTW \ t. d. {r*Meli.f r
AV*J, BrrUa, voL \\v pp. 307-fit

= Or. IViEJ* mention^ tt s'mply tflwor m ^ntulni^' 7/.KO sells. an4 giving
oflWlfliii^HTiiitJLin, ttierefoW, In II.OOOplguon-L Since LnJ*bfin T boWcver + OVajwfU to hr?
a capital* nn'-IcicE^, iJc not fetch so high a price j and, accordingly p the niojrjrity of
the +owii-r« have fallen moi min.

1 Dr. Fry it {Trarrh info Brwitiy l.t)7tj t loiter t\) is r^[M ns>i ble for the state-
nauni I hat tin.!* pi^iKiias' dong u-ed + to supply tbo Migaaillt^ with SalE^Petro
for mnklisL: t^ftpowder^ ^ li-hi- wiiii-b U H 1 canfcJ- P nofcl ro me,

c 2

SERBIA

outside Isfahan, and we Head in the pages of Oleariug of tlie king
stationing himself on Ibe summit ami anticipating the Huriiiigham
or the Monte Carlo of the nineteenth rent ary by Wonting the hmh
(which represent two varieties of the genuine 1 blue-rock.' imd mv
called by the Persians kahvhw, or L the him* one ') a.* they lilted
from the aperture?.

Above the low buildings 0 f the city, m we draw nearer, emerge
n Hue dome and a single minaret. Presently the mad passes
A$ptmeih garden walla, and, through the familiar labyrinth

to ta >*% 0 f intricate lanes, we enter the former capital of Persia.
Traversing the town, but avoiding its principal marts and thoruugli-
fareB, I came out oti the far side into the Avenue of the Che bar
Bagfaj crushed the Zendeh Rud by the great bridge of All Verdi
Khan, ami I Laving spent another half-hour in diving in and out of
the still more intricate alleys of Julia, arrival at the house of mv
host . Here I shall pause to give a del ailed account of the post
and present of the renowned capital of Shah A hi jus. 1

Isrfrh.hn.Ti or Isjiahan (the former i - the commoner 1 pronundaf 3i ill*
the p being softened Into f, as in the ease of Fare for Pars ^Perabl),
is probably the same name oh the Aspadaua of Ptolemy^
and may posdbty be derived from the family name of the
mee of fVmidan, who were called Aspiymi in the Pehlevi dialect,
elsewhere Athrivan. Whatever part, however* may have been
played by myth in determining the nomenclature of the place, we
need not admit the same element into a dtJGOfi&ion of its actual
history, which we will therefore not pursue into the nebulous periljtl
of Jamshul and bis soect-^sors. Under the Aehicmvniau king-, a

1 For ■‘IvM-riptkuts oi L^JihsiEi ill Various periods, 1 r^imineDcl L^E^EldWtn^ fn
mM'ic^ii to the w*ult* nJready cited sn a foQln&le upon the route from Teheran :
I\ iJtilia Valla flSi8) b IwJsyi: &it T. IL-rberl (1527). &>*rr JWimr' Trarrh,
PP- 1M-S0; titan™* (IGS7), Aoj-rttfinf #f JfaJu4y k p, SKH wt §tq.\ J, JL TiivumJ^i
(1 HU 0 , 70 ), TrarfU. bt. iv. Lsp. v. : Sir J, Chortita (lCfirn- 77 ), Cmmatim */
man ucvl nrprfjtt (rdst. Lanplfei)* \aia. wH. and *IIL p. I -I |; A, Ifeulier-Dcahn'leii
J>i Itniutr: 4 r la Ftm*, pp* 10-53 ■ J. Tls^vonut (! frfkV- 7 ), 7 >«r**,-cap*,
S*« et *r*] ; J. Strays (lflT2) P f'jyrfjiw, i^pi. xxiL-xxxiL; J. Fryer (IfiTtl), 7'mrvlt?
F» &ui=mjq (lGS3)i Mtmuin; E. Kusrrvpfor (1£8#-A) T £#«*,„ ||b. |L-

i\ U Bran {ITWy JVwwfr* raps. xxxvUL-xLtiiii Kmwruki (ITOQ-Sft). mifory
ftmlMtto*, p. JHirf j^.; .1 IWKlTi;), frqrtfj; A. Dupti (\m) n
KilT r -v.; Cb Toatier ( 5 BIO). ^nwM^Ia / J rr*t. Jccl, rob, 1 . ami is.; k. Fhmrliq
(lUiH-l)p Tvyatff rw /v Wi rat. L cops-, xtsii.-irii., VOL il, caji^. XIX.- 1 L.; Sir
LI HawHusuim, En^lpj^dia Mrihfanint (&th i.-diL); E. Stack (ISSl),

t:< fWiwr^ v-ol. ii mp. If,

f Lib. vi. i^*p. 4 ,

J'JiOM TKHBRAN TO ISFAHAN Jl

city named C,nha\ gr Gad seems to have existed uul this Kite, and
lut.-r Tu have k-ooiriH the Jai uf the Saas&niou which was

captured by t hi- conquering Onmr in 041 A.n., after the battle of
NihavvntL 1 in tin* parly Mcituiminpdan jieriod. about !)3l a.d,,
the city. already known as Isfahan, passed into tin* hand* of the
D,,emi " r dynasty, who ruled as putty princes in IW and

Irak, al which time it consisted of two quarters, known ns
Vefnnlii-h, or Jews’ Town, and Shchrktaa, or Medhiah, i. e , tin-
eity proper, winch were finally united within a single wall Iry
Husi<m, the ttnfai-rd*Dowleh r father or the even more lam oca
A sud-ed-Dowkli, of that tine. About this time bthlmn n>
\tftitri) lii I j I Jstakhri. who reported it as a very nourishing jilace,
renowned for its silks and fine [men. 3 Early in the eleventh
century it was taken by Main mid of I ihuini, and nexi fell under
the control of the Sdjuk*, having been besieged and captured by
Togm] Beg. Xiisiri Kliosru, who was there in 1052 A.n., soon
after the siege, found that the city had quite recurwad, anil ocfQ-
]ded-a walled space three and a half fatmkh* in circtiiiifetviice.
Benjamin uf Tudela, a few years Inter, corroborates those dimen-
sioi,s > ^ lafidsnn - capital of t he kingdom of and says that

ji i untested 1 o,000 Jews,* Jfiighiz Jvhaii pillaged jt; but was
Outdone in this instance by Timur, who, in revenge for an attack
made by the citizens upon the garrison winch he bad quartered in
(lie fitly, ^ordered a general massacre, the fruits of which, in the
tJiapc of , H,(XH< heads, were piled itp in pyramids of *ku!k At
idMiut the snmo time flint Henry VIJ. wag ascending the throne of
Kngland, ‘ Sptdiami' was visited by the Venetians, Barbara and
t.-out an lit. who found there installed the court of Umm Hasan, or
kmg Hasan. uf the White Sheep Dynasty, Thus; we are brought
down to the period when, always having bans capital city, though
of a restricted dominion, Isfahan was promoted to the metropolitan
rank of the entire Perainn empire by the renowned Shah Abbas.

This great monarch would ill have sustained hir own conception
of royalty had he not provided fir himself, and adorned with all
the magnificence that an enlightened taste could suggest, n new
seat of residence atid power. Seine chroniclers have attributed to

1 Arab utuhore present a tom of 1*0,000 mgfl m Saving b«m countI.uted u>

1 Jl« Ftrdijm m rmv from Npatum,

* tfWwfa/ IWX

ItiMt-far#' |I. ]**$' it lsrLSt>r naurse. In -ti sii eoiifieqEiciUtt that thesis
' Kvn * the ilfeH-enduits of Jiripfr rlfpofted by tfobadiEKl ei* lift*.

PERSIA

biin inferior or subsidiary motives i the unlieaUlimfcs of Kozvin*
the diatance of Snltanieh T the umeirn of astrology* Behind flit*
AbbuLh* superficial vainglory which he so dearly loved, lurked,
G™t however, an idea of true statesmanship. Of tho new
empire which he had won, and which wtretebad from Georgia rc>
Aghunistan, Isfahan was the natural geographical centre. The
instincts of o prudent crontraHsation conmumded him to lix his
capital at, u sp>1 where he would, he within equal distance of all
corner* of his huge dominion, and where, in readutiable proximity
to the Persian Gulf he could at once overawe the maritime pro*
vineed, control the foreign Lnide, and enter into easy diplomatic
relations with the potentates of Europe. This decision arrived at,
he sketched the outlines of a colraaal plan- A new city, approached
by superb bridges mid stately avenues, furnished with public
buildings, as beautiful an they were large, and embellished by
terraced gardens, and palaces, and pavilions, sprang into existence.
The embassies of mighty sovereigns Docked to the new capital from
(Ilo uttermost. |*urta of Europe, and were received with all the
splendour of a court immensely rich and versed in a fanciful and
fastidious etiquette. The factors of great trading corporations
occupied a |k oil ion little short of the accredited representatives of
royalty: and a life of gorgeous ceremonial, mingled with holiday
festivity, rendered Isfahan the most famous and romantic of the
cities uf the East It is ffjrttmale that the cusmopoliTnn tastes of
(his great monarch—-the contemporary of Elimbelh in England^ of
Ili-nri IV. in France, of Gustav us Adolphus in Sweden, and of
Akbac in India—ami In* successor, should have templed £n many
intelligent foreigners to the Persian court; for it is t<< their
presence and, in mm o cose?, prolonged residence in the city
throughout 1 hr seventeenth oentoty, that we < rfv e a minute know¬
ledge of I lie life and habits t the pomp and parade, the virtues and
the vices of the Sefavi kings, Pietro della Yalle, Herbert, Ideanus,
Tavernier, i liardin, Sanson, Dauliei-J feslandee, Kaeiupfer, tmd
Le Brun Bndceasdvelj *hed the light of tin acute and instructed
scrutiny upen the scone, and have added to the respective litera¬
tures of Paly, Great Britain, Germany, France, and Hollands

In the middle of the seventeenth century we have the estimate
of Chaidin that within ten leagues of Isfahan wore 1,500 villages;
that the city itsdf waa 21 miles round ; fluir inside tin- walls, which
were pierced by 12 gate?, were 102 mosques, 48 1802

iiENYl TEHEED* TO ISFAHAN

eamv*nsercm ± 273 bal l is t and twelve cemeteries- and that the various
computations of the tut ail of inhabitants varied between 000,000

Tiu : SibiTl aaid 1+1 llOjOtK). 1 The figures of 01earius + yj y, r 18+000
houses and 500^000 poqpta do not Ml greatly bdow the
leaser total, Xo wonder i!mt the Oriental hyperbole should have
vented itself in the vainglorious boast that Isfahan ahjf i Jehnn/
i,e, 1 Isfahan ia hull the world.* Kaemplhr and Struya credited it t
the SEibnrlH indutleiL with an even ampler circuit, which they
fi-\.d at Hjbtteen farsn jHk or forty-eight miles, hi the time of
Abbas II, the king possessed, m addition to bis own numerous
residences t 137 royal palaces (probably in many Cases only private
mansions) in different parts of tins city, acquired either by inhari-
tance, punchnse, or seissurtn and devoted to tbe enterraimnent of
foreign envoys ami strangers of cr^tiderntinn. When the funner
were received in public audieuci in the Chebd Situn, or Forty
Pillars, all business was upended for the day ; n magnificent bet
tedious ctreriKiiiial preceded and delayed the approach of the
ambassador to the footstool of royalty; gorgeous banquets, cul¬
minating in general intoxication, followed; while lu tbe Great Square
the populace were regaled with the exhibitions of wrestlers, fencers,
jugglers, rmd acrobats r with polo-matches and puppet-dmvre; and
with Combats of animals, bulls, rams, buffaloes, wolves* and, on
great occasions, lions and pans here. When night fell fantastic
fireworks illumined mid prolonged the festive scene, lu one part
of the city stood ft great tower sixty feet high, cmd twenty feet
thick, called the Kelldi Minor, composed of the horns und skulls
of wild animals slain by one of the earlier monarch* in the close. 1
The favour and the prestige m wbicb foreigners were held, and the
latitude allowed by the Uburel-nundcd Abbas and his successors to
the Christian ivligiim, were exemplified by the establi-dmient* and

3 In tltafftn.t|nn of tha ImmeiL-o Azc of Ixfobim, Chardin e^H^i the sniory of u
■* Vc w *50 tl«J Um\ Mb auislcf to linoltjL-r pw: ef the ctlj, npeeed a *hpp rJicre*
^rujiiat'd uniU-Kreu-rel f yearn 3 Ju did o<>t Ljpinlf, htmm-er, Hunk thr
pupa I at Lea gfi-fUiT than that a f ]^udoin.

t I -iLLrtiL>n:j jittriboled N> Shah Isnmtl or HJi*|b T.iimiJi-j'i bqt iloubtlc.^ of
later origin. EHr&mm Then 1 ! were the liiadu ijf Iw'o &OfUUfl wing* tmd

jrazeU™ ttuii wrh: hII tilMI Jit one hunting by ^luih Chardin volitions

thii pofmJar bnlfaf that the urchitecE 3 head was phued uh llm up05 Ijy lh*t royal
ajtfntraui u, h'oaiMt ho had «*M that t llo «kell of Bom a pnolltf groat bcasl wui
wnntod for tin? HiEmiuit, Engravinga of the lower ocear In I bo wnttui of Chardin
and £ansi>h. Hertn-ft aad TuTOndor both declared ihui a gnat m may of the
skiiLls were tuLiittiiL,

PERSIA

-2-L

cburche* of t lm j principal monastic fretorciMea of Europe in the
city. The Augustine?, Carmelite, and Capuchins wen allowed
separate quarters Iwdemging to the Crown in Isfahan; 1 tlie Jesuit-
and Domini dm- had Ocm vents in Julfa. Of the various factories,
that of the representative of the British East India Company,
from 1G17 to the Afghan inv&don in 1722. was situated in the
Baaaar near the Great Mercian. Ii is perhaps only Ihtr to quote,
n* a sefc-nffto the doubtless exaggerated descriptions of tome of the
More-mentioned travellers when relating the wonders of Lsfalnm +
the cooler amt more cynical verdict oi the French jeweller Tavernier,
who was not to lie del Tided by surface show nr factiM ods pomp,
but who mercilessly Btrip|jed t he I inset from t he gilt gingerbread.
Thin is wli&t he said :—

Ispahan in genenih unless it be the Meydan, and some few archil
streets* where the mcrehnuts live, is mom like a great village th lu ji
city ; the Hon hi * standing ztt a distance one from the Either with uYery
one a garden* Imt ill leak'd after, not having anything in it j^n-ehonee
hut only one pitiful tree + * , . As for the King's Palace, T cannot
lJUkhe any handsome description of it in regard there is uotliiug of
Ite&uly either in the Building nr in the Gardenia Bncfipting oiiij four
roonm which they call Donna, l saw nothing but piMful tow gdlenca
nikd bo jinrrriKw that hardly two men could pisd ahreet in Vrn.

As tov the CStiristmn Minions and monks, be entertained u verv
poor opinion of their propaganda, for be wrote:—

The number of the Religious Teacher* isfar greater than the uimiWr
of hoarem, for in all Ispahan and Julfn, take the Franks that come out
of Europe, or horn in Persia, an well men at women, tftwrw are not 600
pernon* that profess the Catholic Religion.

He further declared that the city wiia ill hiid-out, the walls broken
by ^rcat gups, the streets narrow, unequal, anil dark, encumbered
with heaps or orilure and the carcass of dead animals, a nd buried
in summer dust or winter mire* We are justified, indeed, in be-
licving that the pomp of Isfahan was limited to outer show, and
to the uppui^mmces of royalty; and that, one grade only below

1 Or itir-Si-thc Aupa>ti!LL* v v iv the &yt KunJjx-jirt monk* who otw lived in
t.fzLljiLn, Their rinsl npiwntnl 1 vi> wiw Antonio .Li Gore*, who in JBfrfi ffa . H ^ n! ‘
by the Arehbluhiip of Qm ** Jkiuba^mtuf fur %rIhuie 1 I%.rl iijsnL The Carmelite
undiff Fferc etmoD arrived ah e &Tqyx itvm Pope CWut V|JL to Btmii Abba. Ln
3GUS. The Capuchin* (Ffcro Ftaltiqtft <lc Previa* aud Pfcro Gabriel) Were Mai
out l.y UiMkiu with h-tt, fd from Li-ui* XIV, in 1*2& Vitk tlu- pablbtad works
Of A di Cora, P. Parjf, tie Previn#, ami p. Gabriel tk Ohlntra,

FK0M TEHERAN To ISFAHAN

these, were encountered the slovenliness mu 1 the fiEtb of the un-
regenerate East. Sncili ns it was, however—a strange but truly
Oriental mixture of splendour and squalor^ of dignity and decay—
the city continued with little alteration till the first quarter of the
eighteenth century, when, the virtues of tin- reigning dynasty
having been supped by an inherited coarse of debauchee and
intoxication, the capital am! it* monarch both fell a disgraceful
prey to the Afghans in 17~^, The horrors of the siege—when
the Zend eh Rud was click ed with corpses, when mothers devoured
their children in the extremity of famine, and when the inhuman
conqueror, after massacring all the princes and nobles on whom he
could lay hands, surrendered the city for fifteen days to an
indiscriminate carnage—have been pK*wGtfuHy described by the
Polish Jesuit Kniem.ski t who was himself a real dent in The capital
at the fettneJ Prom this shock, and from the brutal savagery of
the Afghans, who overturned, anti sacked, and defiled out of rdl
recognition,. induces, and avenues, and garden^, and whatever of
beauty or grandeur met the eye, Isfahan lias never recovered, It
wns patronised 3 jv Nadir Shah, bat was h^s esteemed by him than
Meshed, Keriin Khan Zend shifted the seat of Government to
Shiras + Aghsi Mohammed Khan Kajar shifted it again bn Teheran,
when he dismal] tied the fortifications of Isfahan. Fafch All Shall
sol in? rimes visited the city* and ultimately died there in 18’JT It
ha£ only once, in 1851, been favoured by the presence of the reign¬
ing monarch. Under the depressing influence of all these circnin-
Winces, Isfahan lias fallen fmni its high estate, and now in
perpetual sackcloth and ashes—no inapt metaphor to apply to the
present appearance of the town—h-wails an irrecoverable jmsL
The method which I shall adopt uf describing the city will be
to give cm iudicatiiui of its general features, and then,titep by atop,
pjuri of to visit its most renowned or interesting localities, fie-

iiiH rtijf piffing at each stage the oonirnst between a past of

grandeur and a present of sorrowfulness and decay. The only
plan of Isfahan that 1 know appears among the plates of 31- Ccsr e’s
splendid work r entitled 4 Monuments Mode rues de In Ferae,’
Roughly speaking, Isfahan lies to the north of the Zend ell Uud,
dulfu to the south* In about thi- centre of the funner h situated
the great block of buildings, gardens, and pavilions tsoustitwtiug

f J/ijflirp fif tks i*/ /Vrncr, LtitcJi friUJj i]m MfeOltiff* tit FjlUlEf

Kru-i|ifj£] T |,v Dul'imvlmilL. 'Im^-lrUed into £tivU@lj. ITSJO.

PEJISIA

the Palace cnch^nre, utitl abutting on flie western aide upon the
Great Meidan, a parallelogram, whose length is front north to south
anti width from ea*t to west, South-east; of the Meidan h the Ark
or Citadel + From the western flank of the palace enclosure runs
tbo Ch^her Bagh f or principal nvense to the great bridge of Ali
Verdi Khan, conducting to AtHfo* Further to the east, a Bimilur
avenue lends down io the second storeyed bridge, known as FWh
Kltyji. 1 . Older bridges exist nt motile little distance both to the
east and webt of th&e two strnetting, while between them a fifth
conducts to the palace of Ilaft Dost.

Hie centre of Isfahan Is the AleicIaai-i-Sbah, or Hoval Square,
which la undoubtedly one of the tuusr imposing piazzas in the
it, ui.Lii.f. world, It was laid out and surrounded with buildings
by Shall Abbas - the king's palace, the principal mosque,
and the Great Bazaar opened on to it ; and it wwi both the scene
of the principal royal pageants* and the nucleus of city life This
Median is oGO yards in length by 171 In width. 1 It h sur¬
rounded by a long low range of brick buildings, divided into two
sloreyn of recessed arches, one above the other. Originally the
lower of thew were alioju, opening on to the Meidau, imd coin-
miinicntliig at the back with the big Bazaar, while the upp r
storey consisted of chambers with baleonir-, that were thronged
on festival occasions. They hare dnee been used as barrack^ and
now present a blank and deserted appearance, A row of trees was
planted all round ilk front of these arcade^ and in front of the
trees w m a stone-edged canal filled with water. In 180P Morier
reported that there not a single tree in I ho Mcidan and that
the ciinal was empty, A scanty row of rh and poplars baa

1 Kom-liow harm I been ■*» twwUriewt w Ha- a-nfising jintl oantaidirtoir
atic4Joiilf - t prevails tntVclU-rs as in thirir tfra ript but* of the sight* nf r^faluin.
dfaw irrecocicrtlnbly inttuOrarieutaHou of l.mMln^, i n theirfigure* ofUinitn*
In ihr. numW of aram, jrtiw hrfdpa, aretes act. to correct or evu

to notice thtw count U^H, imuTCuradom. wfidii he a fntUe last, But n_s cm LUimm

f ion of tiw?m 1 may hm gwa the dhaensionit \n ynnls nr pares of the Meidnti^.ShuLh
its mco«dad bj the prinripil hUkntfom of lAbu, from which it will be- ^. rt how
cib-tnrtS is ihe divergenco IwtivHsn ta-u [mjei^mfonr visions. Pella Volk- bw-*k)
" :, .inn. r-^i -; ta \ -r.tr ftM- £80, t i.,:■ Un I Jr liiO.Smaafi h [ •-

h 5 ||| t |, > HV.y,_KH. KctciujKfri Sinin 700-250. Onw 71 n ■>!,. olLvirr

70Ct-S3fl, Johjwxi 5<xn*00 ( Dorter 800-^ Binning 1*00400, Uwber ffik £60.
FoUin^rt on m .--1M). £t net £00-1 SO, W1II3 140^20, !in > D i_*iO Hern t he™

iiati^uadiva^ in Ungth.nM 240 mrtls b width or »

fluiuiilulLv* error of over per cent.

KYKV.IH1 J.V niV jfHf ■ I h \mp

FROM TEHERAN TO ISFAHAN

since been planted; but i be canal was dry when I saw it, a aulj-
stit Lite being provided by occasional fountains of drinkiag-wnter.
In tie centre of the Meidern, in the Safari duys, stood a most, or
maypole, twenty-five feet high, on which was placed, on great
occasions, n cup of gold, bat on ordinary occasion a an apple or
melon, to be shot at. by archers passing at full gallop below. 1 Its
pLmv was afterwards taken by a more sinister object, vis., the t-i fmk,
or execution pole, with note lies on rlio side, by which the culprit
was Lunged up by t he heels, and subsequently dashed to dm ground,
or else hud his throat cut. This, too. has disappeared. Two great
basins of water with porphyry coping adorned the two ends of the
piazza, both of which survive, and arc kept full. In front of
the Ali Kapi. or Induce Gate, over 100 cannon, the spoils of
Ormuz, were planted behind a wooden balustrade. These also
have vanished. The only other permanent object* ill the -Meiduii
were two marble columns, which served as the goal posts in the
game d* Pall Midi or Polo, called ckugiin, which was very popular
with the old Persian nobility, but lias also died a natural death.*
In the daytime the Meidan was all but filled with booths or tents
balanced on poles, under which the petty hucksters displayed their
wares upon the ground; 3 but on great occasion* nil these were
cleared away, and in the evenings were ordinarily replaced by the
shows of mmuraer.', jugglers, and acrobats, by groups of story -
tollers, wrestlers and dervishes, by cock-fights and i"«n-f3glits, and
by the tents of prostitutes. All llitwe are gone, with the exception
of a few stalls at the northern extremity.

Here there still stands in a bay or recess a majestic portico.
Hanked bv arched galleries, and opening into the Kakerich or
Nukw aaiu Bazaar. This lo% and ornamental structure, in
kbiuwb. ihy arch of which is a paiuling of Shah Ismail

or Abbas in combat, is the Makkam-Klmueli or Drum-lower of

* AugialtillD iAw ftbnli Iimnll bring clnwn 0,11 of ten * hoW M Till,ri1,

rt..-. ISIOj and Tavernier saw Shall Befl I-, wLo whs • pmt atftfclc, »tnkc tlu„

Http* m Jito Eonrm m t

* It wiiri pW4 by numbM^ ttuytotf fFiUrt five Stf l-.v-uaity n sMe. , nnuA

Vnllu ileshiitibBtl a DiiiMfl tjut lie nt Kar.viti in Abdul >i:tJek of tha

Siimnni.1 djnasl* wcu- killed by a fall fmm hi, I Wise while plasms e^n.
Sefl i. ft nd Abbas A were i*>th excellent perfarnMH- muelcy bus an uxtidiie
MIC «n thu game ( Tracts, tot t apj>. C), but is very wide of the murk when bo
lnk'tB to ii the Cricket of England and lb® Chill of Scntliitul.

* TnvemicrV lllusmuion of the MeUtaJl repr^ont. It S* covered with these,
booilm.

PEIIS1A

1*8

Isfahan ; for here* in the Bonking galleries, is dispensed the appalling
mmhc at snndowu which inilk'at^ the residence of royalty, and of
which I have already >"poken at Teheran. 1 In the lower galleries,
looking uLqt into the square, rise jwopte usi-^i tu nuioke mid drink their
morning coffee; uiid here the yin t emully-mindinl frhjih Abbas
deputed unrUtth^ to tjnterfcu a thetd with yerioim discourse. Above
I he main arch, it? a space still visible, but tilled with modem tile-
work. was fixed u great clock (Tavernier alone cuds if a smii-dmlj
which, according to i klearius, was made by an English mail named
IV-nty for Shah Abbas; but, the maker having been killed by a
IVrmn, ir remained out of order ever afterward*. Above
the dock way ci big bronze bell, which contained an inscription
round the edge: * Simctu Maria, om pro n« «l -L-i mulieribtlJl, ? and
hud, in fact, been wrested from 21 Portuguese nunnery at Ormuz.
It waa never sounded, and nearly a hundred years ago was taken
down Euid melted for cannon. The clock survived till the begin¬
ning or this century, and was seen by OUylerm 1700 5 but in 18 U£
it was removed l>y II nj [ Mohuiumed Hdsein, Ainin-ed-Dowleh, and
Bcglerbeg of Isfahan under Futh All Shah, on the pretext of re¬
pairing the fresco in the archway.

On the eastern aide of the square stood f and still .stands, the
Mosque of Sheikh Lutfiillrdi* frequently called the Mosque of the
M (fraud Pontiff, i.e. the Sadr or Chief Priest- (Chardin

Luifu 1 i. lIl, wx-ota ir Gedre) of Isfahan. In modem times 11 seems to
have bom less frequented than was once I he case; but its dome is
still covered by the ancient etmiucllcd tiles* with a Bowing, aliuosi
Florentine. pattern, A little beyond* or to the south of thhq
formerly existed 21 tower, which the French writers culled Pavilion
lies Horloges, or des Moebmea, and which was built for the it must-
meat of Bhah Abbas XL by some of Lib European artificers* It
contained it mechanical dock with inarionnetfces and figures of
nnnnalsi rhat moved. Nut a trace of it now remains.

r.'linnlin !>a.\ * \l ttiuudltnl at -*iinj«et and ; Sniuun ni m:*iQ p

two iumn after midnight; and an f£-te ilitys nlxm*t aU tbv day mid night- a
in Elm O'fiawtint ‘ ■ 1 $SL‘i i ^eitr- ro aia^at^ a tucrndn^ perfoimjirLi^ nJ^i
4 f lti:ar \ft l-arly nauraia#£ frtlni the Friday luQtKgni*, or from ihtnEiHir at th«

ALabtig* ji^lnot, 1 bo nuase of Iho big' ilrutti/ Le Uma name* tlm Injrtnnncattf
empTairnl, and lhev brut 4‘linnge.L but litttif: -tAIubObn, tfnajjHUs, tjmh&Ii
citoVitJai^liaiitbeis, drum** dun*, Imq*. dymlnV TJrivcum says the l ramped
wsrDDtw S fi.-'l Ian it- the cmrtatn i* rolened by Jvr*hn HAS. ns f rtr luck
oi l ha time dt Alexander.

MCaJlIM-hlUH! Wttljtf

FlfcOM TEREK AN TO ISFAHAN m

In Hie centre of the southern or narrow end of the Mcidnu
at/inds the Musjid-i-Shah or Royal Mosque of Indian. Elected on
Mu-jid-i- the site of si melou-gflideu hi IH12—IS by Shah Abbas,
Shmii. and originally intended ns the MiiEyid-i-Jnuia or Friday
Mnmpto, it co!?f over 1 75,0001,and was from the beginning one of
the noblest fabrics in the city, Shall Sefi I, covered its door? with
silver plate?. Inside were preserved the blood-stained shirt of the
martyred HuBein, and a Korun written by the I in si m Ram It has
been many time? restored, notably by Nadir Shah, after the
Afghan usurpation, mid again by All Murad Khan, A lofty
archway framed in a recess, embellished with interior honey¬
comb groining in enamelled faience, surrounded by tile in-
sesiptionK from the Koran, and dunked by two minaret? with
spiral I wind' of similar ornamental ion, leads from the Meidon
through n porch* containing a great yaii- or font of jwrpbyry* into
the iniu^r court. Hero the peculiar construction of the Mosque,
already visible From the exterior, is fully apparent* The am of
the Mtiikm being EilmOst due north and south, the architect
required to in ell 110 the axis of the mosque considerably to the
sonth-wosr + in order that the mihrtth or prayer-niche might be
turned in the direction of Mecca. This purpose was effected by
architectural means that are at once grandiose and simple, 'Hie
inn* 1 r court, marble-paved Jind con raining a great tank for ablutions
In the centre, is smTOundod by a two-storeyed arcade* undecorated
save by bands of Kutic inscription in tile-work* white letters upon
a blue ground. The arches are kept for she iicoommodstbii of
priests and attendants. On either side rises a lofty tile-faced a lira n t
a mightv urdi in which opens nicoens to a space covered by a low
dome. The only Europeans of whom I know os having penetrated
beyond this quadrangle into the mosque itself, were J. S. Bucking¬
ham in ISlfi* and E. Flandln in IfliO. 1 Opposite the entrance u
third ftjerem* flanked by minarets* conduct* into the mosque proper,
which Is surmounted by the principal cupola, whom exterior,
covered with exquisite tiles containing patterns in dark blue and
green arabesque On an azure ground, is one of the principal land-

1 Arimimhk- pinny, tie vat iona h nml restoration* of the uni in- LiiiMing Jtftvfc
l»fin ptlMlalafrl by Cb. TcxEcr. L'drmf trie t la Pmr> ic. fc TtiL L pli 70-72; And
P. Coatc, MitHumrnt* Nifikrw de la ftfFJV, Mme + tHpsiWoj borrows horn t Lem
woika withont n 4 know]fH%tH«it: bnt whs bKMlf Admitted on talks reefs of ths
]«M>kin^ down into the great. coort,

■iO

pmsiA

marks In the city. On either aide of the shrine are further courts,
with basins and porticoes, to which the public are admitted on
Fridays, The decorative treatment of this beautiful building,
though Hilling like nil other works of art in Fern in, into decay, yet
remains a superb sample of the style of the Safari kings. The
four minarets have never been used bythemrteacin, the kings being
afraid that from their summits too much might be seen of the secrets
of the royal seraglio adjoining* Their place for the call to prayer I

is taken by on ugly and stunted cage on the summit of one of the

miF£W +

tn -s--- b

UATl: UF AO EAI'S ASU TALAi:

We now pass to the western side of the Meidan, the princi¬
pal structure in winch, near the southern end, is a lofty building
Umttat Ui the form of a great archway overlooking the square,
An k* pi. nn j itself crowned in the fore part by an immense open
throne-room or verandah supported by wooden columns, while the
hinder part is elevated to a height of three storeys higher. This is
the Uiltr of the royal palace, and the porch below Is the celebrated
-Vli Kapl or Sacred tint®* The name of the latter has been variously
explain'd hy different writers, some writing it &b Allah Kapi, or the
luito ..if (Sod, so called because of its extreme sanctity; others as AH

FROM THIIKIZAX TO ISFAHAN

KapL the Gate of Ali, there being u tradition that Shah Abbas
carried it off in its entirety from tile sepulchre of Ali nt Nejef
(Meshed Ali) near the Euphrates, where lie replaced tlie original
by ei jewelled substitute. The true meaning would appear* how-
ever, to Iso Ali (i.e. Anli) Kapi or the Sublime Porte, Its sanctity
has now fallen into comparative abeyance, although any one sitting
under the elm in at the back* which is covered with rags as offerings*
has lad and cannot be touched; but in the f&favj ff&ya il w ns great
and umpt-Httonvd. No one might walk over the threshold ; the
king never crossed it. on horseback ; all recipients of the king's
favour went and kissed the gate; and il was held an inviolable
asylum, from which none but the sovereign could drag a fugi¬
tive, and he by starvation only. Tavernier gave still further
particulars:—

Tls the custom r►f all Aiukms&dors to sji| u te the Gate nf Ali bv
reason i?f il white marble stone made like an its&es hack* and which
*tv*» for a step ; lifting* aa they tv port* brmiglit ancinitMy out of
Arabia, where Ali liv'd. That tiny that the new- 1 King receives his
Ensign bv of Royalty, lift got* t>» stride over that Stone, and if by
negligent ha should uluuiee to touch it, them arc four guards at thu
gate that would make a show of thrusting him Imek agmm

Prom Theyeiiot it apj^nrs that this sacred stone was not situated
in the gateway, but at the end of an alley leading from Urn Ali
Kapi,

In the ialtr nr open iM rtal above, supported by twelve wooden
columns and containing a marble borin in file centre, the king
gave audience to the amka^afh'.i 1 * at No Rue; and there he sat to
witness the horse ratre^ and polo, the wild beast lights and public
entertainments below. Hie building, when 1 visited it, was
unoccupied; and presented a very forlorn nml deserted appearance.

This portal t- the most advanced portion of the Royal Palace,
the various: courts and gardens and pavilions of which ucciipv aii
Thu immense ^pnix 1 , estimated by Cliardin a^ four and a Half
miles in circuit. along the entire western side of the
Meidan f terminating cm the far side ill the avenue of the Che bar
BagK In this palace still lives the Zil-es-SuItmi n* Governor of
Isfahan; but some of Its courts aborting on the square urn
surrendered to public officials, and, in the absence rif die prince,
were crowded by the applicants fur ministerial nr rmigbieriid
favour. A ground plan rif the entire hi tick would alone reveal uf

t-xpifim its intricate and bewilduring partitifmu. As i* common in
Persian building, all ths* liciiuty was showered upon n few special
courts nr halls, and there can nrvnr hnve bmi any general effect,
either of art or magnificence. Tavernier, indeed, in a passage
already quoted, spoke very conteittptnonaly of its features. A few
structure*. Imwever, always deswrved, and still dcseire. admiring
attention.

Of tWe 1 lit- uiotit fan mu i* is the Chehd Shun or Hall of Forty
Pillars, whirh tint principal tahir or veranriidied throne-room
CUhal ill the palace. where Mm king gave audience to rnid^A-
suuf dors. rercivad his Jniukters in Lev&?. About the
origin of the iimek j there has been some dispute. As the loggia is
supported by twenty column? only, the number of forty im been
obtained by some too iitgemmro spirits bv counting their refiections
in the basin of water that stretch^ in fnnit.. I mjvdf imagined
rim t |]i,-n> might once have Jkh-ti a simitar poroh T with twenty more
CtiTimm*, on the buck or further side of the central hall; mid l
have b-en informed that restorations, carried out in 1 hr part
Year (lyflM) have rovealcd traces of such wi original addition. At
the =uime time I can lind, neither in the- letterpress nor in the
engravings of the old travellers, any hint of each a structure; and
I Jmve very lit Me doubt, therefore, time the dcsigtiot bn is merely a
numerical title, intended to cjepresa size mad magiiiliceiicts Fur
this pnrpc m the ntanber cfmhd or forty fe in common use in Peisiu,
Pei-sejioiia i* called Ohehel Minur, nr tlit* Forty Towers; and oth'f
bunilinr Appellations arc C'hebel Cbiudnmh fF^rtv Springs), (Jhehel
Dokhtenui (Forty Middens). midChelnd OhirSigli (Forty Limps, com-
motiSy applied tn a European chandelier), 1 The hall is situated at
the end of a large garden, down the centre of which extends a
tank which, when I saw ih was empty. A row of wires, stretched
round it on tall blue imd green poles, was a relic of a recant
iIIiirnination. The gateways opening on to this garden are
adorned with r3h- heads of tL'X. mcmnlrdii-^htv-p, and -imilai
trophies of the cluv^\ The Cheliel Sit mi was originally built by
Shah Abba? : but, ucmirdiiig to Krashriri, who was resident in
Perrin at the time, the greater part of tile old fa line was destroyed
by fire in the reign of Shah Saltan &n^eln f loO jmra later ; the
latter monarch, who was childishly superstitious, declining to

1 To ttkO s&mo qlajs, la all probability* bdung*tl the Hckafrnap ylm ,orHunelml
QelUm et UlC lir«;tH. Vfa may nUfi- compare the Forty TbiffTK* qf Ai&tldin*

L'jarcEKL aiTi’St

FROM TEHERAN TO fSFAILVX

| interfere with I Si/e flames, whose ravages lie regarded nt a dt&pexisa-
[ turn of tlw divine will However. when they bud fulfills I their
mission, he set nbgut rebuilding the edifice; a fncl which* though
ii I ms unnoticed by every writer with scarcely an exception,

doubtless ncctiiinf^- for the occasional differences l^etweea the
present fabric nml that d^eribtd by Chardin, Tovender, etc., in the
day? before Shah Sultan Huh- in.

The building ixmnBb of four stages or compartnieijt*. Of
These tbs nu'ronntet is the pillared verandah, Its roof, which in
T _ Hat and inUEiOiisi'lv wild, some of the rafter* bvini; com-*

\ KHiniToJ) ,

of the IhiEes i>\ entire atetwir* or planes, seven feet
reiind t ainl tmhetvM, w supp. rtt il upon twenty wooden cv sinning, in
f( oi r it>w h <if i \ ii* r i>neb, snid 1 wct n>w* <>1' t**ureach, J 'Hie outer r<<w i.f
these were origi unity covered with amitl facets s>nooking^-gIa* 5 , set
diftni'iSid-wiso in perpendicular bunds; the inner n>wk with glnsB
set in spirals. All these facings faad t at the l ime of my visit, been
recently removed, n vulgar restoration having apparently been
ut, tempted j with the result of irreparable damage to the artistic
beauty of the fabric. The interior columns rest nn groups of stone
lions,’ eodh facing utitwattfc, and the lour central pillars stood for-
me fly at the angle- h if a marble I Italia, into which the lions that look
that way sjtoubod water from their months. But the Win had been
Hlfod in* and the lions* too* had succumbed to a recent daub of
paint. The walls t f this beautiful loggia, whose effulgence drew
from rile riiJijwwIirnl Ker Porter the fnl lowing tribute:—

The exhaustions profusion of its splendid materials rejected not
merely their own golden or crystal lights on each other, but all ihe
variegated colours of the garden; m that the whole surface stained
formed of polished silver and mother of peart, set with pi-ecious sterner,

were formerly covered at Eh<- bottom with a wn imputing of while
marble, painted and gilt* and above with Hie beautiful imre/i-tari,
or minor-work set in facets and panels, for whidi this Persian
artificers were justly renowned- The bulk of this superb decoration,
which still remains in the thruzie-rouni belaud ig point the bitter
contrast, had, on the walls of the loggia, bwn ratbk&dy obliterated

4 NaVertbele** Horiw, Rinutcur, Die alafoy* as also Chardhk, give thv
number as refill, nut reckons elj*, I Imagine, the two ootniuiu that support Mie
architrave- of tin-1hrOiitf-rbQOL. The diminisL-uni of the fuiott* OOtlilKUrtnien^ are:
Verandah* 44 ynnU by 22; Talar, JU JwLs hy 16 ; StmJmtsliiB, M itxi Lj 10;
Ficinre-gsdlirty, »0 fret by 40,

VOL* tL

PJ3BSJA

by the brush of the- painter, who Iwd left III ii> place a pale pink
wash. Hftd I caught tli- pagan. I would gladly have Miflbcatcd
hi in in a barrel of lias own point.

Immediately behind the vemndidi is the or throne-room;

and from this, but on a rat bar higher level opens a deeply recessed
Thnsii^ compartment ox dais, or Shah nidi in, whereon stood the
ram royal throne. The decorations of this chamber* when I
saw it, were stilt intact: and the prismatic flush of the mirror panels
him! facets on the walls, the pointing in g&td, blue, red and green
on the coffered ceiling, and the honeycomb vaulting of the recess,
produced n sumptuous effect* Out of the tlirma-TOom small com¬
partments open on either side* thui were intended for the kingV
nviinatei-s.

Finally, behind the throne-room, and communicating with it
by three door*, is a great hall, extending the entire length of the
P - ctatTf building (Lumadon gives its dimensions as seventy-five
feet, hy forty-five feet), crewned by three low cupolas,
and adorned over almost the entire surface of its walls by si*
immense oil-paintings, three on either side* Pietro della Valle,
speaking of the paintings in the pahice at Isfahan in the reign of
Bhah Abbas* made the remark that they were *0 Iwidly drawn that
he was. very apprehensive of Jos mg the European artist, whom he
had brought oat to take private pictures for him self, if the king
should become aware of his merit. Notwithstondmgthis criticism.
which is so far just that the ignorance of perspective, the ill pro-
portion^ and the angular Btiffiu?ss apparent mail Persian portraiture
tfnight well haw shocked, a sevehteedtb-ceiiturj F European, who**-
vision had been t rained in the school of the Italian Renaissance, thea*
pictures of the Cbelml Bit on ore both admirable as works of art
and in valuable a* hi^fcorh-nl ducututiifB. They transport w straight
hi the conn of the lordly Abba- and l»i^ predecessor or succerwre
on the throne* We sea the king engaged in combat, or at some
reval festivity f enjoying the pleasures of the hmvl, The big
moustache* and smooth chins, and abundant turbans, represent tt
fashion of coiffure that baa long expired* The arms mid uccoucre-
merits of the warrior*, iha instruments of the musician*, the very
gestures of the dniicmg-girk, open to us the kicked doom of the
pa*fc: and we ^111 to share in the feasts nnd fights, in the pomp
and dullittnce of ibi' Bofnvi kings. Whether these pictures arc the
originals that were painred by order of those sovereigns, or whether

FROM TEIiliEAK TO ISFAHAN

the )rigiualfi were burned in the conflagration under 8ku.li Sultan
HuseSn, and repeated by command of tbat monarch, is nqt related,
Bui from their correspondence with the description of Chardin I
entertain very little doubt that four of them at least are the iden¬
tical pictures described by him rirc* 1670; that of Nadir Shah h,
of ttwae, a later addition.

1 have limnd in (lie explanation of these pictures the same
hopeless jumble of mistakes in previous writers: tliat is the invvk-
able consequence of scant historical knowledge combined
vi it] i perfunctory observation. On tho wall facing- the
entrance are three of the six panels. One of these reprvsK-nts Shah
Ismail engaged in combat with the Janissaries of Sultan Sdimam
Tho redoubtable Shah is dicEug the Aglia of Hie Janistiiries in
twain, a ml nrvak marking the downward imssagt* of the royal
blade. Adjoining is the picture of Shah Trdimn>p entertaining
the refugee Indian prnace T Hummim, of n banquet in 1B43* 1 The
two kings are kneeling iijhui a dais ; an mud are ditqK&ed the singers
and orchestra, the bodyguard and royal Falconers with the birds
perched on their wriste; while in the foreground two daneii ig-girb
are performing with gestures none too prudish. The figures me
out far short rjflife-sLze. The t lijnl picture on the western wall
depict* a scene of even more advanced coTtviviality P the cent ml
figures of which are Abb;v-? the Great and Abdul Mohammed^ Khan
of the IMjegaA There i- the same background of royal attendants ;
but the carouse ha?* evidently made confide ruble progress; for the
king is holding out his cup for mure wine, while an inebriated
guest is Eying in a state of extreme intoxication on the floor, with
a fiiwk pressed to bis 1 i|>t=- This picture i* said to contain a liken ex k
of All Verdi Khan* the celebrated generalissimo of .Shah Abbas,
and the especial pat i on of the Shelleys. On the near wall an;
throe corresponding panels. In ope of these Shuh Ismail at rhe
head of hb cavalry is engaged in conflict with the Uzbcg Tartars,
In t he second Shah A bbm II* in et nt ert ain i ng K hat i f Sul tan,
ambassador from the Great Mogul, with the usual accompani¬
ment of niuHichms and dancing-girls* the lattes' performing with

1 Texlcr* who aloos given i5tt|nw™l rcpitkluclJuii* uf three oE the pictures,
uuk^ ft IudLCToiui mkisifee about fchSj one. m part.Lcnljuv lu hi* ldtcrpn^ In-
describes the Persian rncmareb si* IjNih Abba* who dS4 not yocml the throne tii]
nenrly fifty >«un laser, arul. in his Hl!c lo the plate, a.* Fkth Ali Stab, who did
Hot rcSgn lilt the present. MUlniy.

1 Lady t$hcil calk him the Turfctah amWaidsir.

PERSIA

tambourine wnl eaatunota. The last picture ti.e battle

bptween Nadir Shah ami Soltmi Mahmud (mounted on n win fa
elephant), that d, t ided iIm- Ihle of Delhi, The colours and the
gilding on tJirose pictures retain na esttraurdiuary vividness.

A portrait of the iwgainff Shall has been added on archway of
tJit* roof bet wean two of the ancient panels. The lower portion of
this groat ball, as well us the walls of the side moms, have been
painted an ugly green* There are lour fire-plnires, two on each 0 f
the longer suU. In the past year l18H1) the picture-gallery
hM been turned Into » species of conservatory, being filled with
tlowcri ng plants. Sm niter cabinets original ty i-jJened out at either
end and were adorned with intrlruits of European ladies and gen-
th num of the thus of Shah Abbas. All round the ChaM Situn
wore, «ml t daresay still are, hung g reat cur tains of needle-work
and brocade, which were let down against the sun. Mouttucy in
l0dS. and Madame Dwnlufoy in 1881, found the loggia employed
aa „ workshop for the tent-makers of the Prince-Governor. Tbit-
articular form of deaeration has been abftTuhfWsd:; and <[uitv
recently (1801) I hear of ihe Zil-es-Soltni. as sitting in daily
audience in one of the robinute to receive the addressee or oqm-

plainta of his astonished Unbjeels,

Among the other pavilions or courts ill the |wdaoa enckemv.
which I have not the space more minutely to describe, may U-
mentioned the Sac Pmjhideh (of which Code publishes
SS&T au aigraving), a hull of which the diagonal pillars, en-
crn^e.1 with glass, rout upon the shoulders of female figures m
1llft .bh-, ihmnaelvw holding 1W heads which spout water mb- a
| m ; h . the Imrat-i-Aahraf. or pavilion built by the Afghan usurper;
lUe l.imret-i-Kan, built for Wh All Khnh by the Amiu-ed-Dowhh.
■md containing many pictures of <1.,* king and his family;' and the
Talar-i-Taviteli, or Hall of till* Stables, u part of the ptdace now
used for official business.

On the extivme western side of tin* myal precincts, opening »n
lo tlw Cliehar Bagh, are* u garden and building tliar merit n l.-ss
enrt notice, These are the Haaht Bell edit, or Eight
Ki.t iWlises, n title winch some writers have erroneously
ascribed to the eight garden* bordering on either side upon the
Cliehar Hugh. The name* which append, like the Chehel Situn,
t„ lie a numerical expression indicating size and splendour, was
p j t i 5 well ilescrlU'il hr Mdriniv Ffort Jrwnwg* p. Srt7.

FliOM TKIIEHAN Tit ISFAHAN

given to tin- place liy Shah Biildnmm when# in aljout 1070,hi> built
tins palace id a garden prOTigufily called Bagh-i-BulbuL or Garden
of the Xighl ingak*. The chid" building i& :i paviliou d muling in
the centre of n large enclosure. At iti? prime this? mm t have been
a remarkable structure, for it was tlniR described in 1G77 by the
ihetorical .Dr. Fryer:—

tr i 4 n nw«t Place, doubtless, were it eloathed with ita glory ; b u!i
&a it Is t it is a Rich Piece ; the Bummer House in the middle is saluted
by two Cbitiiiud*, in which urn Ships and Ikuti to represent a Naval
scene ipf War ^ Sufnnsnmd Pelicans find her* the ir diversion - theSuinuiur
House i4 built entirely of polished Miurble, the Arch of the L\i]>ih» is
I nhiid with Mossy Gdd T upon the Walls an disunited the famous Actions
of their Heroes ; the Tank in the middle is all of Silver# the F^sts art?
.stuck witli Looking reflecting the Posture of the body, stud tk«-

Figures of the whole Fabrkk ; an Simuspbcrical Turret presses on Four
Pillars which an- die main supporter 1

Even Chardin# enthusiastic but seldom aentlnu-ntal, wua inspired
to an unwonted outburst by the charms? of the Hasht Bdie&hL

When one walks In this place expressly tundn lnr the delights of
IrsvCs and when on* passes through all these cabinets and niches* one a
heart is melted to such an extent tlmt, to speak auidsdly p erne always
leaves with u very ill gnice* Tim climate without doubt contributes
much towards exciting this atuoftfUft disposition ; but assuredly these
places, nlthough m some mspocta little more than cardbmrtl totftlra, an 1
tseverthnlesa more smiling and agreeable than our moat sumptuous
[Aluces. 3

Liter iui this pavilion fell into decay, but it was inbuilt dr reared
by Fatih AH Shah, who in th-- nmm hall, covered by a dome mid
surrounded by gal huh- with small chambers in the angles, caused
to be executed Frescos and oil-paintings i*f himself seated in state
with Ins conrr. nml mounted on Fujrsebuek Hearing a Hon. Other
ecm temporary pictures adorn the neighbouring w r ullis t including cmfc
of Istarfi, or Simclmy, the English Adonis. This heptagons)
pavilion# wMdt is now neglected and falling to decay, h sometimes
placed by the Governor at the disposal of strange re of oni&idcration
or official of foreign governments. It stands in a garden laid nut
in partemv# planted with fruit-trees, and with avenues bordered
with cypresses and Like all Fersitm gardens, this is no

FrwfM ia /VF^ifu p r £H.

3 (cil, Lmgttft), vol, vMi. p. 4^,

mtsiA

dcmbt very lovely iti spring-time and summer, bat tit any other
season of the year it lias tin unkempt and bedraggled appearance,
Tavernier very tvalv remarked of the royal gardens of Isfahan,
even at the width of their splendour, that

You must not imagine that these gardens are so curiously set out
nor so wall kept as uurs in Europe, For they have no such lovely
borders, nor such dost- walks of honeysuckles and j asm in as are to k 1

seen in the Cunions of Europe. They suffer tin* grass to grow in wumy
places ; contented only with a good many great Krait Trwa, tufted atop,
and planted in a line, which .is all the grace of the Gatdoni of Persia.

Prom the pnlacv 1 now pass to the (treat Avenue, already men- -r

tioned, that com lnets from the eemtre Off the city for a distinu'e of

chatter 1,330 yards to the Bridge of AH Verdi Khan. Its

Hast. mnui the Cheliar Bagfe or Four Gardens, is not derived

from I lie gardens that open out of it, but frculls the fact that the
site was originally occupied by four vineyards which Sludi Ablins
tinted at 0,000 fimet a year and converted into a splendid aji-
prrarh to bio capital. OF all the rights of Jsfrhnn, this in its
present state Is the most pathetic ill the utter and pitiless decay of
its beauty. Let me indicate what it was and what it Is. At the
upper extremity, n two-storeyed jmviiinn, connected by a corridor
with the Seraglio of the 1*1 ace. so ns to enable the ladies of the
linretn to gasie unobserved upon the merry scene below, looked out
upon the centre of the avenue. Water, conducted in stone channels,
ran down the centre, falling in miniature cascades from terrace t<>
terrace, and was occasionally collected in great square or octagonal
basins, where cross roads cut the avenue. On either side of I Is* i

central channel was a row of ettewirx and a paved pathway for
pedestrians- Then occurred a succession of open parterres, usually
planted or sown. Next, cm nil her side was a second row of cAcwrw,
batwFH-n which in id th** Hanking wnlIs wjis a raised causeway for
hafiwnien, The total breadth is now Vj yards. At intervals corre¬
sponding with the tnecesrivv terrace;; and burins, arched doorways
with recessed open chambers orerhrod conducted through thaw
walls into the various royal or noble giutlrmj that stretched on
either Hide, and were known an the Gardens of the Throne, Night¬
ingale, Vines. Mulberries. Dervishes, &<*, Some of these pavilion*
were places of public resort and were used us coffee-houses, wheny
when the business of tin- day wet- over, the good burghers of

i hum: tester a f tu Isfahan

Isfahan assembled to sip that bevei'jige ami Uj inhale their hatim**
tin? while a ns Fryer puts it s

Night drawing nn T nil tbs* Pride of ^pahe.nn wa* met in the
f liuurbaug, and the Umndeea wvre Airing tli&UjUHclvea* prancing silKiut
with tltciir immeioua Trains, striving t«« outvie ivicb other in Pomp anti
(Jeneroiifcy.

At tin- lujitom, quay* lined the brinks of the river, and wer0
bordered with the mansions of the nobility.

Such was the Chfihar fiagh iu the plenitude of its fame. But
now what a tragical contrast ! The channel* arc empty, their
stone borders crumbled had shattered, the terrace are broken
down, the parterres are unsightly bare pitches, the trees, all lopped
and pollarded. have been chipped and hollowed out s or cut down
for fnel by the soldiery of the Zih the side pavilions are abandoned
and tumbling to pieces, and the gardens art' wildernesses. Two
centuries of decay could never make the Champs ElywSes iu Paris,
the Uuh-r dvr Linden in Berlin, or Rotten Row in London, look
one half ns miserable as dues the ruined avenue of Shah Abbas*
Jt is in itself an epitome of modem lran h

Towards the upper end of the I’'b e-bar Bagh on the eastern side,
m a once splendid covered hnzsmr, through which one can turn
aside to enter the Meidan. It is now empty and forlorn;
i hijIT* l hut a short time ago was turned into stafcles for hfe
iiu^m t fhvh*vi* T by the Zil-ea-SuItan. 3 On the same side Is the
entrance to the Hasht BebeshL A lit.tie further down stands a
build jpg that ia still one of the spectacles of Isfahan, This is dm
Al adre®*eb-i-Shah fTusoisj called also Jladre&soh-i-Madflr-i-tShali,
which wus built, according to Kmaitiski, about the year 17 HL by
thjit monarch as 4 a monastery Tor the Dervishes/ The Polish
Jesuit farther says that the chief gate was of solid silver ; but be
probably alludes to the chased silver plates with which the wooden
doors are adorned- Beneath n deeply recessed archway, vaulted
with honeycomb dccomtiou, wo puss into u dome-covered portico
of vestibule, on either side of which petty hucksters pell fruit on

■ Fn>#frr {A tl iflfrrV toL ii. p. 70) mention* a native gQprrfldttnn

that when like cAttmr attain* tihiBfi haiMlied jreans U ptirtahv* nl ndf^mbuillofl.
ami appear to have been taken in by It. I prefer Iht" I*ralLHCk utLotuktbalIon.

■ In the eiri}' purt Of the cenlnrjv n riot bai-irig broken Cflt in this Lnrjuir,. the-

gotemof plmlL'd jl dannuli at it* isnlrance. she! flttsl a l might <!uwn ihe centnd
juveieu: into the crowd, killing Ej r n»Uraixi£ everjOftc tkcre —a |-i the

tm-thort# of Trafalgar frjuare.

PERSIA

stalls, nml thcncc bio the main court of tin* wEridi

contains long basing fitted with water, find h planted with flower¬
beds and ovejfshaduwed by trees. On the right-hand Hide op^nn
die iraraqae or prayer-chamber, flanked by two minarets and
crowned by u flume. hi the centre of tile remqr nitig ifideSare
similar arched chambers Two storcya of arched cell* for t Jei-
indents extend al[ runml, and t\m euriLeiv are cut jfl’ by recessed
andtefl. But it h in the surface decoration of the widb that this
noble building he[|] arrest* and compels admiration* A wnin.s-
dotin" of the marble of V™i runs round the base; and above
this the archways and recces, the lintels and facades. are covered
with magnificent tibe and panels of enamelled mabi-sque. It w ^
one of the ptoteliest rains ihat I saw in Persia. I was informed
tlmt though there are 1 GO chambers or cells, there were only 5!)
pupils p and that the vokf or endow ment had seriously dwindled,
hvmg for the most part appropriated by the Govermnent.

Before I pass from Isfahan to the southern bunk of the river
mid to Jnlfa, I may mention n few other buildings of interest. Of
these the moat considerable is the Mti&jid-i-Jama, nr
I' riday ino&jue, said to have been originally raised by
Abbas Klmlil ] Mansur, in 755 a. It. The succeRsive restoratj&iis
ot Malek Shah it lit! Seljiik, qf Sl»ih Tuhmasp. and of A Wins IJ n

Iwm* deprived it of genuine artistic value, and it fell into the

second rank after the erection of the Mn&jid-i-Sliflli by Abbas the

({■real, lint it still retains titular pre-eminence as the Town

Mosque, fhough its minarets and quadrangle tire in a state of
decay. There is also another and older meukth, entrance to which
is gained through the bazaars.

Tlie tteaara or Isfahan are vary tine. Stretching for a greai
distance on the north ii ltd east aides of the Miihm-i-Sluih. Severn!

uf Ht >* unoccupied or but partially occupied; bat

thwe "where Ini si ness still centres are, nest to Kerim
Kbnii Zend’- lwsymr tit Shiraz, the finest in Asia. All I lie life ut
the city throb* in tine daytime in their packed and clamorous
alleys; here h visible :in ever-changing kaleidoscope of the
unchanged Orient ; anil the crush of men and beasts renders
locomotion slow and bewildering. From the main avenues open
out immense courts or caravanserais, piled high i V ith ImJes 0 f
merchandise: citid here the clank nl weighing-machines, tin 1 jr*si]r
of camels mid mules, und the noise of human barter, nre inn^suut

FROM TKHKIl.VX TO tSFAHAX

The European merchants have their quartern in these cnruvanfleraaei
or in build Jugs open mg out or the raniii bazaar; and many was
tho huSUbess colloquy, attenM wirh coffee and pipes* and pro¬
tracted by interminable haggling, at which I assisted as an amused
spectator.

In spue of its physical decay Isfahan is alii] the second largest
trading emporium in Herrin* yielding supremacy only to Tabriz.

The English eye is gratified by the sight of English
trade marks or figures on nine out of every ten hales of
merchandise that pass on camel, donkey, or mule ; and inquiry
elicits the satisfactory fact that Manchester is =?till the imiversed
clothier nf Isfahan ; and that though this city marks i lie northern
limit of undisputed British commercial pretlominam/e, yet that
ascendency is both firmly sired and show- signs of Increase
rather than nf d imi nut ton. From the fact that the principal
European houses of business in Isfahan bear foreign nnmes—1
allude to the firms of Ziegler and Hotx—it has been erroneously
inferred that British enterprise has Supinely allowed the trade of
ihe city to pas* into cither hand*. No more incorrect induction
could be made. Both these firms, as well as the Bemad Gulf
Trading Company, who Imve a representative in Isfahan, trade
fttmrak cxd li 3 ively in English goods; and the considerable profits
accruing from their transactions find their way in the lu*i re*i>rt as
wages into the pockets of Lancashire artisans* It is a further
evidence of the imparlmice of British mr-rrautile Interests in
Isfahan that Lend Salisbury Isas recently taken the wist' stop of
appointing n Bril ash Consul to that place, his choice having fid leu
upon lip* J. R. IVeecOj for many years one of the leading officers
of the Indo-European Telegraph, than whom no better selection
could possibly have been made*

The imports into Lsfahan t the vast majority of which come
from Rnshirtn may l>e classified as follows in the approximate order
lfcM u of their hulk:—Manufactured cotton goods* utmost, wholly
from Manchester and Glasgow; copper sheds from
'London* tin and zinc from India and Java, woollen stuff*
and cloths from Austria and Gemany, ]cuvf Sugtir finrn Mnwill^
and Hamburg, raw sngnr from Java and Mauritius, rui Bombay ■
ten from India* t'hiim* and Java ; candles from England, Holland,
and in n less degree Russia | crockery from England,, glass from
Austria, oil and a few prints (mm Russia, By far the tin ■'it

PERSIA

valuable portion of this import is either English or Indian, iwd ii
will argue great imbecility if fchb advantage is ever lost. Of the
exports, whose value and bulk an- boi h greatly inferior to the
import*, till* principal mu:—Opium, a great deal of which is grown
in the Isfahan district, and about 1,500 cases of which, with an
average value of 70 (. to 901. per ease, are annually exported from the
city, in tie proportion of three-fburtlia to China and one-lburth to
London j tobacco, the average Mutual yield of which from tile same
diet rich is b0|000 bugs, of froni 100 jb. to 1101b, each, with a vul tie
oi io,00O/, of which 30.00l> bags are exported rid Diislore to Egypt
and Syria, 20,000 urn Tabriz to Cuuelaotiuople, and 10,000 to
Haghdnd ; carpets, manufactured in the provinces of Ferahuu, Kur¬
distan, Kfmni-an, and For?, and exerted to the annual value of
100,000/. from the whole of Persia In England, America, and
I'uuicii; ci4tiro, of which abuiit 60,000 xttahiiwwt ■ ni- nhahnuiit ~
m lb,), with SB flpproxinifltc vulm-* of 2 -jJ)0Q/ pp urn ex|Mjftsil
iN/i Bnallirts mainly to Bumbav; almonds, Strnt to India, Uasaia.
nniJ London; and rice for eunsumprjrm within the countrr
A gw>d deal of trade is dons? by native inerdumte ; Ijikf the balk of
me&Cftatife tratiAacticuift paae^s through the bands of what may
indisputably be deacril^d m English firms. whose activity here is
in pleating contrast with the apathy that has been di*)i]oyt*il in
olhef porta of Central Asia. Further ubrarvalhiag upon trade I
for a subsequent chapter upon t he Commerce uf Persia.

Formerly Isfahan was famous for its armour; and a certain
amount is now iiiimuluetcmid in imitAtion itfLlie eld, A ^.umI deal
MithuJiw - of the local industry appars indeed to he devoted the
ivj induction of arrides or styles that onee won a world¬
wide renown. Of these, perhaps the tuosr noticeable are the
<" hi soiled br*m ware, m liowLs, yohos t trays. lamps, and ornaments
(ftr HUperiorj in my judgment, to the analogous products of
Benares or Lucknow), the kalemdam or painted pen-tsi**. the
mirror cases, and book-backs similarly painted anti varnished; ami
the pottery and tilts, directly copying old patterns, which may he
■nx-n stacked in the curio-shopsof ConrtanttnopIe, or. Ibr the matter
of that , of London. Also celebrated an* the laxtmJuit* or printed
calicoes of Isfahan, in which elegant native designs are Stomped bv
hand-die*- on cotton fabrics imported from England,and thehirt/L
a sort of nankeen, tuocIj used in dross.

At different times siiicm the Afghan invasion, and the great fall

FROM TbilKKA.N TO ISFAHAN

of Isfahan. exaggerated and conflicting accounts have been given
c)f its pojinIntion. In 178-1—0, I''-htiA res-Sauveblnuf acttally numed
300,000 as tin* total. In IS 10, Malcolm reduced this
IT'""' to 200,000; hut ill the previous year Aloiinr had doubled
* h ** u * lt it t(1 400,000; nUlnuigli the value of ilia wn figures.

as well »» their coiwimndencc witli contemporary calculations. !in ‘
hotravod by the figures which he gave only two years later, in 1811,
when, of the very same time that he returned a census of GO,000,
Oiue%, a member of the same party, mentioned 200,000, Any
Herron will prolmbly give the last-named total nt the present day;
but. it is mlucnl by competent imtliorition to u maximum ot not
more than 70,000 to 80,000, although the city and its trade have
recent!v experienced an undoubted revival. Amid their own
country men the ls&bioit enjoy an unenviable reputation alike hu
cowardice and morals. They are inordinately ruin of their city and
of themselves, and in u country where lying is a tine- art. an- said
to he incomparable artiste. Their niggardl iness and closeness in
business matters an- illustrated by u story told by Malcolm, 1 width
has been crystallised into the saying that "The merchant of
Isfahan will put his cheese into a kittle, and rnh his bread on the
outside to give it a flavour.' Cowardly though the people are
alleged to be. they have alto acquired a reputation for petty
disorder; and the /«/j> of Isfahan are justly regarded w? the biggest
blrtckgpardN in Persia,

Isfahan is also one of those places where a spirit of religious
intolerance prevails or am easily be excited, it* victims being as a
rule t he Jews, who are her.- treated with great contumely;
Ctvwrt the Habis, whose numbers are vastly on the increase, and
against whom sallies are frequently stimulated by tbe mtd/aA*;
and in a less degree the Armenians and other Christian com¬
munities, uh<> require to conduct themselves with circumspection.
The arrogance of the clerical order bn* been very much augmented
fiitict* the fall from high estate of the Zil-cs-Snltnn. as dcscrilied in
a previous chapter- When at the zenith oi his power lie main¬
tained a style at Xfi&hsa, and ruled w ith an autocratic independence
that kept three unruly gentry in order; but. in liis present con¬
tracted state of authority. ho courts support or popularity wherever
he can get it. and fawns upon those whom be once despised. A

1 ShtuSaif Anb.dip.xiil. ObniwcilM M'liteV 44Mm«i <

pmiiB.

PERSIA

greater contrast cannot be imagined than between Isfahan :i few
yfcir-i ago, and the same eeat of government now. Then it was the
•.apit.nl of n prince who affected the monarch, and resounded witJi
r hi- pimp rmd cincumstanct' of military ruh*; m«v it is the residence
of* provincial governor, whose power is proranuus, and w!m is all
but destitute iif firmed men. Such is no uninteresting example
of the operation in Persia of the irresponsible authority of the
sovereign.

1 have elsewhere mentiont'd tJiat at the height of his power the
Zil controlled an ninny of nearly 21,000 men. He took immense
^ interest in the equipment and proficiency of these troops,

whom he clad in n variety of foreign uni ton uft, and whom
ho constantly paraded for the edification of foreign visitors. One
Kerim Khan, known us the Mir-i-Pimj, commanded r he Xil T s
cavalry in thoeo days and still follows the fortunes of hia master;
but onfv WO to 500 horsemen are now available, although in the
barracks and stores, which were welt built and maintained, are
equipments aod arms for 1,000 cavalry, and riftas and ammunition
>• » “*1. for 10,000 men. The policy of the Zil, in treocheroufdy
~ laying the Ilkhani of the Bidditiari triliee, has permanently slien-
ated from him those potent auxiliaries, upon whom a wise and ambi¬
tious governor of the central provinces would have relied for help.

South of Isfahan, and separating it from a of former

suburbs, of which the solo survival is the Armenian colony of
TtroSSsuflahJulia, flows the Zondek or Zaiertdeh llud. Jh a,
later chapter I shall trace this river to its springs in the
Kuh-i-rang among the Bakhtiori mo tin tains. Rapid mid rushing
in its upper course's, it spreads over a wider bed us it enters the plain
of J-vhinjnii, tot bo south-west of Isfahan, There its waters are largely
drawn off for purposes of irrigation, and by the time the river has
reached the storeyed bridges of the capital, though swollen in spring
time to a powerful torrent, ai other aMiflom it tills but a contracted
channel or lies in detached pools. Below Isfahan it fertilises the
districts of Hemltan and Itudedit, in which its* flow is regulated
by the himtlt or dykes uf All Kuli Khan and Mervmi. Tester on
its surplus waters arc lost in the Uavkhnneh marsh.

At Isfahan the Zeudch Rod is crossed by five bridges of dif¬
fering stylo and antiquity. Highest up the stream and most .-indent
of those is the Pul-i-Marmiu, 1 which was built by Shah Tabmasp,

; Eacntpfcr named it MunutUinin, imd explained it hk tueiminp 'vlper-hunter f

TEN EUAN To ISFAHAN

whu reigned ] V2J^75 a i>. h hr conduct to the Mohummethin suburb
of Mamma In* flit' wk 4 of .fulfil* The bridge t> built of 1 nick, mid
nrulqv of * s pierced by arcin g of every size and shzq:*e resting upon
M*mnEi pters of roughly liewn stones, Tlie city having so
greatly centr&cfced its t>orders thin bridge is now little used. The
Armenian* call it the Snrftirnz bridge, mid ascribe ita erection tonne
of their ov\ti cnnntryiuen.

Next in order on the cart corned the [unions Bridge of Al)
Yurdi K’lmn, the general of Shah Abbas t which is also known as
, B the Bridge of Jtilth, and the Fnl-i-Thehar Bagh p from the

jVKsi v fc fiii fact that il conducts from tla.- base ot that avenue re rim
southern IjEkii k of the river, l hi!-: lieanlifu] si met tire
whose main features and proportions the march of decay has been
power!ess to destroy, is atone worth a visit fni Isfahan to see ■ albeit r
rj one would hardly expect to have to travel to Persia to see

what may h in all probability, be termed the stateliest bridge in the
world, Approached by a paved ramp or causeway from the avenue,
the bridge is entered at the north end under a gateway. Its entire
length is db 8 yattls f the bn-adth of the paved roadway is thirty
fei-t.' Tp.-n either aide u narrow pat 11 way„ or covered archie, two
and a half feet in width, \* pierced, along the entire length of the
bridge, in the outer wnlheoimnunicating with the main roadway by
frequent arohes.and opening by similar arches, twer ninety in number,
on to tlit* river view. In a few places, this gallery expands into larger
chuiubert:. which were originally adorned by not too proper paint-
ings. of the time of Abbas 11 , Access cun also be gained by Efcair-
Cfttes in the round towers at the corners of the bridge to an upper
platform, upon which a re now phi cited the telegraphic polos hu port¬
ing the wires to Julfa, bat which was formerly used n> a prutimrmdv
in the warm weather- Similar dtaircases* cut in the bisements of
the towers and also at regular intervals in the main piers, conduct
from the road level to a low. r storey, where, but little elevated

{Anri- n. 1^#,, y. IflS); Clumlin* M^uvnurii- Knirijjslii called it the Bridge of
Abbii&ibad, the rumiiu to# Wv lemn frum Ctiiitfin, of the OddsC nlbcirh of old
Fsffttum, mntflininp 2.1* M L2 uar-.jui.-s, 1W hotlLi, 24 omv,^ mta* anil

Jl nu-idrrtffhi, peopled by o ^lODf whidi Sluili Allies Caul Irarujflunr^L from
Tftbrfc.

1 Apnih the aic^iireuit-'ijt* ^.£ >m,r dUIvr Lm.^Qi!niJj]y—CbuntEii,

:m-\S yitnla; Tavernier, 3TAT-itf yittd*; Piumbo* 20; Sampfe^ 49b-1$;
I..- Slrmi, ACi-l i Vtl tliL'se writers rtifernit tip ibo entire brctulth. inallatlfbg clu-
shlt: .

4 6

PERSIA

above the bed of the river. a vaulted passage runs along the entire
length qf the bridge f through arches pierced Lu tlie cent nil fjiers,
crossing the channel of the river by huge stepping stone* planted in
ita bed. Colonel Johnson gives the dimensions of these tmnaversG
arches as ten Feet, sptui mid nine feet high ; and of the nmn andies,
thirty-tinv«? in number, which they bisect, as twenty feet spun, and
fifteen feet, high, separate] by piers eleven feet thick* There is
thus a triple promenade in this remarkable bridge—vaulted
passage below, the roadway and lateral gal Eerier above* and the
open footpath at the top of alL t should add that rhe upper part.

nmiHiK of alI ykiiiu Km AH

of the bridge is of brick, the piers and towers of stone. When 1
saw it in December, hut little water was flowing through the arches;
and the hanks of the river, and the shingle in its bed, were com¬
pletely covered with native cotton stuffs and ehilitres, which men
and women were perpetually 1 miring and bleaching in the shallow
pools, and laying out to dry.

Formerly this bridge opened immediately upon another avenue,
which was practically a continnatign of the Chehnr Bagh on the
jt^ Ar south bank of the river, the united length of the three
Jerih actions being given by Kuempfcr m: Chehar Btigh 1,62ti
yards^ bridge 190, avenue beyond total i.JIO yards, or

FROM TEH Kit AN TO ISFAHAN

nearly 2 J inttee. 1 This avenue was Imd oat in the same style an
the Chefiar Bagh, being planted with raws of trees and adorned
by diamn-Is Sited with water, that Ml from tier to tier and at
regular intervals expanded into linger basins or pools- On either
sidf? also were situated the palaces and mansions. of t he princes or
grandees; whilst at the upper end was a royal enclosure, known as
the Bazar Jerib or Thousand Acres. 3 This great pleaaauuce was
laid out in terraces, built on stone walls one akwe I ho other, and
adorned with alloys and canals It was I'mwn property 3 but wj*s
apparently open to the public. The surrounding enclosure was
utilised as a game preserve, and we read in Blenriua of wild arises
being hunted there by the king Of the H azar Jerib not a tract 1
now remain*} whilst the southern avenue i* far more ruined even
than the Chehar fiagh* and speaks only in choked and faltering
accents of its vanished glory.

Throe hundred yards l>elow the bridge of Julfa^ and at about
the nan so distance above the PuH-Khnjti. the ri ver Is crossed by
the I'uWJhubi, 1 a plain brick bridge of fourteen mu-
JhM thru, arches, winch was constructed as an aqueduct to
convey water to the Palace of Hall Dost on the southern bank.
Hence the origin of the name /hi, vulgo, jttb^ signifying a water-
course. In the company of ita splendid neighbours it evcites no
attention.

The suburb upon the southern bank at thin h p<»t was originally
known us Cisaebri^tan T from being inhabited by the Airoustnans;

but the ground was cleared by Abbas Lit., and converted
into a royal residency which he designated Sadcbibad, or
ftl1 * 11 ih Abode of Felicity, and where ha kept his seraglio. The
bank of the river from the PuM-Khsiju upwards was lined with
gardens, and by means of the sluice-gates at the lower bridge the
king was in the habit of damming up the river* till it formed n
great lake before the talar known as the Ainek-Khaneh, upon
which he disparted himself in bouts with his ladies, and which at

1 Le Brunt* ^^siniBiEinirt were ant broadly iliftTent—i.,153 + SIC +

4,3ni^5 jardi.

* Thojerfr irae l\ land r^ti^Lirvment, am ousting m l^jOOU to l.Ofifi ruraLun square
jardr ( of 41-34 inches), IV total at 1,000 WU, t.uw^Ver, it mnawknl tilki, anil
iiauat n-nt bfl EaVcn to Indicate the actual ami.

* Till- IJ.'LfTM 1 U #|H U ISiUi-t lincipliy price, PuliJoolo bv Cltmln^, Mk-t writers
Iuire ijZTK>netf iV mst^nuu nf the bridge, which Hu lwarn failed tbfl Pridgp
nf RideUihAil, Intsus: it. Ud from that tj aortal

FfclEi&IA

stalls n fulnr, very similar to tKisrt of the Cliehel Sittm. It is
called the Aiirtli-Khnneh, or Hall of JMimws, from the gloss facei^
that formerly adorned its pillar? and ■walls. and consists of n grunt
project ing vcnmdoh, ansi .lined by twelve wooden columns, the inner
of which repose upon the clustered totfditn «f marble lions. A hawt,
or basin, occupies tin- c£-ntiu. nud » ^second stands in the recessed
throne-room or the back, behind whiriii open several chambers,once
embellished with pointings of Shah A-bbas and bis Circassian ladies.
The lower walls were wainscoted w itli marble, upon which were
twin ted and gilded designs of flowers and birds. In the garden at
rh,- kick stood r|ie Nemekdnq or Salt Cellar, a pavilion of thecln-*
described bv the Persians as K-lnh It'ermrfhi, from their supposed

night was made the scene of fain- ilium dilations. The actual build-
jug of the htiwin was known os liaft. Dost, the Seven Suites, or
Compartment. Hen* were received and entertained tiir Harford
Jones and Sir Gore Ouaeley, on their respective missions in 1810
and 18U, and bora also have been aecOioimuduted Subsequent distin-
guislnal gu-sts. In one of the tower .chambers of the Halt. IU
Hurronnded bv a wainscoting of Tabriz marble, and adorned with
* marble cistern. Fnth AU Shnh died in 1834. No aatopditm baa
bestowed upon the place*, which, when 1 visited it,
had boon abandoned for years. Hard by the Haft

FHOM TKJlKltAX TO 1HFAJIAN

411

resemblance in th»- omv.ni and brim of a European hat* which was
neon pied bv some of Ouseley*s suite. If would appear tint in the
ln^t eighty years not. n step has been taken to arrest the march or
decay in these once elegant and beautiful structures. The Nemek-
dnn + /iffeni-r fumbling alinodt lo pieces. has been pulled dowJi + The
Aineh-Khaueh h in the ]as( throes of flts^ilution^ the pavement,
being broken, the decora tin ns peeled off, the chambers defiled, ami
the whole phee open to any loafer to camp in, or any vandal so-
minded to destroy. Almost touching it on the eastern aide is a
solitary pine, sole relic of the vanished pleasure^ 1 round. Its tufted
crown wavr.H like a funeral plume over the scene of departed
grandeur.

At a slight distance below the Aineli-Khaneh. the Zondek Ruj
is spanned by the second of the historic bridged of the Hefuvi kings,
Pui.i. This m variously known as the Pui-i-KinyjUj from the

Kimjii, quarter of the city of that name; tin I *u I-[-Baba Hukn,
frnm a famous dervish named liiikti-ed-Dim who was interred, in on
udjiujent cemetery; the Bridge of the fcruebne* < Kni*Inski), because
it led to the suburb of < •uebrnstan, and was built by Abbas ]] ., in
order that the Onebrea might- not pirns across the main bridge to
Julia; and the Bridge of Hasaaabad* because it led to the Ba/aar
of that name in Idhhan. which was stored by the Itqvenior of
Isfahan under Fath All Shall, who iilm replanted an uvrmie, like
rhe Oliehur Ikaglu from the bridge to the city. The Pul-i-Khajtt
h shorter than the bridgo of All Verdi Kluiti t being only 154
yards in length, owing ro a contraction in i tm lied of the river,
which here Bows over a ledge of rock, The struct tire consists, in
fact, of a bridge superimposed upon u duiin The tatter in built of
solid blocks of stone and is pierced by narrow channels, the flow
in Which cnti be regulated by sluice ^ This great platform is broken
cm itu mi ter dgp s the stones lie Leg arranged In rhe form of steps
descending to the river-level. Upon the platform or dam repose the
twenty-four mmii archer of the bridge, which is <>f brick, and the chief
external features of which ore four projecting two-storeyed hexago¬
nal pavilions, one at each comer, anil two larger pavilions of similar
shape in the centre, a third storey living erected upon the roof of the
more westerly of the two. Ad in the ease of the Julfu bridge, the
basement is pierced Liya vaulted passage, running the entire length
of the bridge through the piers on the top mf the dam, and crossing
the wucivs>,ii’e channels by shipping'-stones six foet deep* The main

VOL, II. h;

PERSIA

roadxvny nfthe bridge, twenty-four feet braid, b also flunked by a
covered g^k tl-ery on either side* leading fchtlie hexagonal pavilion^ mid
opening: by n succession of srche* on to t he outer xiir* Finally, there
is a tomee-walfc at the top, which was originally protected by a
double parapet and screens. The pavilions were once adorned with
rich painting and gilding, and with pamja containing inscription*.
The iteration b now more jejnne and vnlgnr; and the spandrel* of
t ho archer are mostly filled in with modem tile*, In olden day# this
bridge was a favourite resort in the evening, where the young gallant a
of Isfahan marched up mud down, or Sat and smoked in the embayed
archways overlooldng the stream. Sow it is well-nigh deserted
save in spring time* when the snows melr in the mountain^ and in
a few Honrs theZendoh Bud ia converted from a petty stream into a
foaming torrent-. Then the good folk of Isfahan c rowd the pilleries
and anodes of the bridge,, ami slumt with delight ns the water liret
riMheti through the narrow sin ices, then mounts to the level of the
Causewiv and spills in a nylny cascade down each Successive stair¬
way or weir, and finally poin-H through the main arches* atill uplif¬
ting into a seriefl of cataracts, an it leaps the broken edged of the
dam. This is one of the annual holidays of Isfahan. Upon either
side of the Pid-i-Khaju are planted avenues, as in the ease of the
approaches to the larger bridge: bat they have fared no better at
the hands of Time.

Lowest of the bridges of Isfahan, ami at the distance of some
mi Sen from the modern city, the Pul-i-Hhehri>f;in conducts to a
... . village of flutb name which contains a verv tall minaret.

Ftri^n-i' *>1 ^ ... , k .,

ahuhr Hot is othonvise in ruins; although il was originally one
of the two qt]nrters of the earliest city and wn* the resi¬
dence of the nobles. The superstructure of the bridge is of brick,
and ts Apparently of later date than the foundations and piers, which
are of stone-

South of the Zenthdi Uud, and u little to the west of the Fnl-b
Chebar Fngli, extends the once populous and still interesting
suburb of Jaffa; interesting because it is inhabited by a
Christian colony nearly three hundred years old, because
ir is the abode of all such Knropeans m reside for business or other
purposes in Isfahan, and tteeau&c it is the theatre of a missionary
effort directed by our own country men. After crossing the big
bridge we turn to the right* and are presently involved inn wilder¬
ness of intricate alleys, many of them closed at the end by wooden

mtm TEfTERAX TO ISFAHAN

doom—the relic of a less & j emv age—or entered by tuximd-like
arches. Narrow ditches fringed with el single rou of pollarded
willows or poplars rundown the stifles of the streets, which are little
mow than path ways, and are plentifully perforated with open
Hewers* The principal street or lwnlev«rd of Jiilfa contains n
double row of trees. But in winter there h no beauty in the place
(though I sea that in spring Mrs, Bishop returns a very different
verdict); everything b meagre and narrow ; the exteriors of the
houses are blank walla of mud, pierced by a single door. Life
in J llI fa struck me ns cribbed* cabined, find confined to an intoler¬
able degree; and it was a relief to escape from its squalid pre¬
cincts even to the spacious ruin of Isfahan, There b a marked
contrast <'F appearance in the people of Julia with the inJinhihuits
of an ordinary Version town; for the customary bine chadtir or
veil of the Mussulman female i> replaced by t lie spotless white
ubfiefc, covering a red gown r of the Armenian woman* whose black
eyes and eyebrows flash above a white cotton cloth that conceals
the Ti>outh and chin and presses upon, the lower pari of the nose^
Around their waists are visible brtuid girdle* adorned with silver
|dates. There mu*t bo a gt»od ileal of market gardening in Julfa,
for piles of vegetables are exposed for sale in the streets; and
fruit is cheap and excellent.

It is well known that both the name 1 and the first inhabitants
of Jnlfa wei 1 © borrowed from the town of the same title on the
River A raxes, in Azerbaijan. From there, in 1 G04* Shah
Abbas, pursuing his favourite policy of forcible colonisa¬
tion. transported several thousand families of Armenians to his
m w capital 1 where he conceded them the sparse consolation of a
revival of their patrimonial name. His design has been attributed
by some to a wish to despoil the Turkish army of its chief mart
for provision*; but it is more credibly referred t > the monarch's
confidence In the thrift and colnmercijJ aptitude of the rhristkius,
and to Ids dee Ire to give his subjects at Isfahan the benefit at once
of their industry and example. Chardin speaks of an Old and
a New Julfa as the colonies respectively of Abbas the (Trent and

' Sann? Pi?r*isn writers., hnwRrar, call it JnlhWch P ft name which &i#nUit»
’ wnaviifs' ^urtcr, 1 ami which often appears la Gowimmuiat- ilaet]inrtir*Jri*tr§M] of
Jutfb. Tl»;y f urthefivwf11Hnt this wjtiilifl ori^iiml and c.irSLpr name. bcf&W Ilia
AnnanblD Lmtaigtniiun- liiatory, howow* lends no comaboriilicm to this hyjrt*
ihesli.

PERSIA

Abba -5 I!,; but I Infer that the latter connoted, new streets mid
buildings rather than a second immigration, of which I have found
no corroborative lvoortL Encouraged by it* royal founder, who
gave the now nr rivals many privileges, exempting them from
servitude. granting them the free exercise of their religion, and a
hfhint<'f nr mayor of their own nationality. and lending them
motiev without interest, Julfn soon became el thriving ami populous
place. By the time of Herbert's visit (1027) t the number hud
Ewaltoji tu 10*000 noub. In Ubardin # > day Jalfu eonttiined 3,400
booses and 30,000 persons (Fryer at th*- same lime says 0,000
families), more then n dosen churches or chapels/ a moiinsteiy; a
nunnery, 1 where w r ere about thirty iKK>r widows nr girls, ugly and
jll^mpen/ and 100 to 120 priests. The Jesuits possessed uil
eHtahSisbnH*nt them (the ruins of their church can still be seen),
having arrived in 1646 under P6w Rigourdi with letters from the
Popo and the King of France, For a time the prosperity of the
colony was free from cloud or bUmlah, although the taxation levied
from it gradually increaised in proportion to the dwindling sym¬
pathies or the growing cupidity of the later Sdhvi kings, Shah
Suleiman wo* the who systematically overtaxed and persecuted
the Armenians, Under Khali Sultan Hnscin, who prided himself
upon an unbending orthodoxy, the outlook became blacker still, a
law being promulgated that if a Persian killed an Armenian be
need only pay one loud of corn to the family of the deceased. In
and after the Afghan invasion, the Julians suffered terribly ; but
the storm did not. finally culminate till the reign of Nadir ShaL
who alleging, most unjustifiably, that they had helped the
Afghans in the siege of Isfahan, visited them with ravage penalties
and exactions, interdicted their worship, nnd placed them under a
ban of .(K?rmnneiit social l ostracism. Jimiiedlately upon the news
of bis death in 17 IT, the miserable Armenia ns Hocked away Iti
hundreds if not thousands, to Georgia, to 1mlLa, and to Baghdad;
and the population shrank to limits upon which it has never since
been able to make any appreciable advance, Olivier in 1796
reported 800 families, Morier and Ouseley 300 to 100 in 1811,
Martyn&OO in 1812, Kcr Porter 300 in 1318, Lutnsden 500 in

i T Ur. toMvUttlonn of tho prifiepAl clkurdict w^tnj rs fallow-* : Si. Jcwepb, or
thfl Cntliertni^ 5a JtJOSj St. sHiephc-n in 1SE)| a J^i. John iti ItlSi?. Stf f r ij

nfll new for WOF*hip h 1ml li ti trreat pboe of Jj[]£rLHLQ££. awing lo foh
ot -mm manale-workirc Rtenp#. prayor in front of which b fraught
with bdosftt 1 tot the *lek+

I'HOU TELUiRAN Tl> ISFAHAN 53

1820, L'ttber 3,0<H) souls in 1801, Oohlsmid -100 families in 1874.
The total population of Jnlfa was given to me us 2,5UU, of whom
eighty per cent, fire Armenians. 1

There are practically four distinct ingredients in the population
of Julia; (I) the Artnenirms pn.per, constituting the balk of the
Armenia community; (2) the United or Catholic Armenians, u
L-.rujimcLLLy schism ; fd) the (1iun.li of England M ission ; and

(tl the Kuro|»ean mercantile and Telegraph element. A lew
words about each of these. The Armenians proper are under the
spiritual jurisdiction of an Amchtun-fc or Archbishop, who is
invariably n monk from Echmiadisiu. Be resides in a building,
formerly a convent, adjoining the higgles in Wang {Hig (.‘liurch) or
Cathedral. Attached to this establishment is also a nunnery,
whose annuls have not been free from tlugruut scandal, ami which
shelters a number of old spinsters who visit the sick, teach, and
knit socks. The younger ami more active part of the male popu¬
lation is normally drafted to India, Java, and other places in the
East., where, in situations of business and profit, they speedily lose
all desire to return to their unprepossessing homes. The con¬
sequence is, that only the residuum is* left behind : and while some
of the?'* are engaged in business as carpenters, market gardeners,
etc,, a good many have embarked on a trade which s,■cures them
neither jmpulurit v nor consideration, via,, the manufacture ot
liquor, quite us much for surreptitious Persian, as well us for
avowed home consumption. Ur. Wills, who lived iu Jnlfa many
years, presents a very unfavourable ;>ortrntt of the Julfft Armenian.
So common is drunkenness, that his Armenian cook would say to
him on a Sunday night: 4 Dinner finished, sir; if you no orders,
1 go got drank w-illi my priest; ’ while of the average specimen
In* drew the following picture:—

The Hanisukin Armenian is hardworking anil ras^ctable, if
occasionally n drunkard, looked on by his Persian bblJow-nubjeeU
as n. friend and a good oitiien. The lrfdani looks ujhjii tin - Julfn
Armenian us * race apart, and merely tlu- ponderer to bin vices and
the maker of intoxicat ing liquors : and the hangdog Armenian witli Lis
sham Turk nr European dress, and the bottle of urraek in his pocket,
mhwIh staggering along iu secure insolence, confident in the moral

i Par the Armenian!* of Julia, riVfr a report by tnijjelie IMjfifl In Ids tiw
tfmndm^ee ft SUm.rim. vol. il. pp, :!TI-&Si Ottdfor modem Julfn. ridr C, J. Wills.
/* the Land. ,f‘r.. caps, xtu nail xiv.; and Mrs. IHshep, Jim firry* >n Arris, vol. J.
lrttcn *ii + liii,

rig is [,\

protect Jem given him by the presence of the English whom he reb^ ^
respecting neither liis priest, whom he has been taught to despise ; nor
the missmnfcry whom ho dislikes at heart (though he has educated his
children gratuitously) and whom his priest openly reviles*

It is, J fear, too true that the Armenian of Julfn cannot be
credited with the virtues Or gifts that have made his race successful,
if also ii:n]Kifnihii\ elsewhere Ipl the Fast. lie has suffered from a
tori' long expatriation among tha tents of Kudur.

The main church or cathedral wsm built. under Ihe auspices of
Shah Abbas by his imported colonisU, Having lately been repaired
and decorated with new tiles it presents a smart appear¬
ance. In the courtyard outride stands a big detached
belfry. Four stone pillars support a brick gallery with a railing,
to which there is no ncctfHs from below. Above thin rises the bell-
tower and bell, which is pulled by a rope communicating with the
church op 3 »-teite. In the corner of lto courtyard are a number of
graves, of Protestant Christians as well as of Ann ennuis. Upon
a poH^iige immediately mil h id- rJn- church, open a number uf small
cells. Entering the main building we find that its shape is a paiul-
lelogn™, consisting of two squares, with a semicircular apse at Ehe
end. The first square is the navp* the second is the choir beneath a
dome. A wainscoting of omamenEal flics runs round the baseband
above this the walls arc covered with strange old paintings of rich
and sombre hue. Chardin tells us that they were the gift of a
wealthy Armenian merchant, named Avudich, who* having travelled
in Italy and acquired a taste- for art. persuaded Ids co-religionist*
to allow of tin* extent ion of these paintings, greatly to the scandal
of the Mohammedans * who were shocked at the iltlinention of the
human form. The pictures depict Old Testament tcenea, rind tire
sEifferings of saints and luartyre, whilst over the poor is a great and
gruesome tableau of the Day of Judgment. Above is the heavenly
host, but all the skill of the arrist has been lavished on the tortures
of the damned, who arc being ushered into perditioai by huge
<h yds and .symbolical monster*. Higher up In the walls are
windows filled with stained glass ; while the apse is painted with
miniature?. of saints and cbevubiin t and with a figure of Christ, It
should he added that the liturgy in this and the other churchy b
conducted in the ancient Armenian tongne, which is gibberish to
ninety-nine out of every hundred Armenians who repent it.

Outside Julia, on i he desolate stony [Jain that stretches bo the

MLHEVUS CVrimnlLAI. AT TCLKL

FROM TK11 El:AN to JHFA1LAN

fi5

foot of Koh-i-Sutfa, is the come-tery, where feline cenfcimesiof Chris-
fciune have Wen Iaid to rest. Hen? are not merely the tombstones
of hundreds of departed blocks or

i MELu l.-ij of etone, chiselled nuJ sculptured—hut also of many

Wnropeanfit English, French, J hitch. and Russian, who* during tbe
^aine pi Tim!, have lived and died at Isfahan or -fid fa, in the employ-
manfc of the various lactone or in other pimaite* Among them
Lh the well-known graTestonn bearing the inscription { y git RodtAf^
und covering the remains of Ralph or Rodolpb Stadler, a Swis*
watchmaker, who enjoyed great favour at the Court of Seti but
was ultimately put to death by Cbm monarch lil I0-87* upon his
refusal to turn Mohammedan. 1 The Armenians converted him into
a saint imd raided u tomb over Ids remains.

The aimdl community of United or Catholic Armenians, now
numbering some sixty families l hr representative at Jnlfa of n
scliiam two hundred yeara old, a Jesuit tnisfiomuy nt
Apnf- Eraerum having converted an Armenian bishop and a
targe number of his Hock in the year 1 USB. The schism
spread in spite of the vigorous persecution of the Armenian hier¬
archy ; ami later a young Armenian priest named ALeehitar founded

oitler of Armenian monks on the little island of St, Lazarus
near the Lath. In -Mfh the church of this small community was
built in the year \70o ; bLit, the present movement ia the fruit or a
revival, that was effected early in the present century by Catholic
Armenians from India, and sustained by an energetic priest named
Bertoui It is m>w under the jariedictJon of a Jesuit Monsiguor,
ami of u well-knOWJL monk, P^nt Pascal Arukviinn, who is one of the
most popular and agreeable figura* in Jnlfnn society, Relations with
the Armenian Church have commonly been strained ami frequently
hostile: hut au outward harmony appears now to linve been
established.

The real jealousy, it is useless to deny, is between the Arme¬
nians of both persuasftm&j and the Mission, soot out and supported
by the Clmzch of England Missionary Society, which has selected
Julfn as the scene or an active propaganda and a large anuual outlay.
This mission is under the control of the well-known and greatly

1 DUTk-renl vrrsiuns :trv jpvi'ii af ilj-> cfrcinxutUintHtf Uiftt IcU tu his dntb by
OlAUtas and T^vriLLer, this fimner pi|lD|ruLR thnt Sladbr lm.il first killed n Pundnn
wham bn aragfct breaking into hil boow, the Li(U-r I hat iho barf?lnrioiu l h ersiaa
hmi violated the waUflltnsteflrH hnntfd.

PERSIA

respected Dr. Bruce, of whom it may be said i hat he is m good a type
as can anywhere be seen of the nineteentb-contuTY Crusader. In
i hmthui an the red cross would have been upon his

Ei^LrusH] shoulder, and he would have been hewing infidels in con-
M'.hu.' 1 f OJ . t j |e Holy Sepulchre, instead of translating the Bible,

and teaching in schools at Julfa* Going out to Persia for the first
time in 1669 T he has been engaged ever since in a revision of the
translation of the New and Old Testaments into Persian, and is a
transtation of the Book of Common Prayer into the Armenian
dialect of Julfa* The establishment over which he presides is large
and cooimodioos; comprising a fine church with accommodation
for !KKh and a coagregation in I860 of 184 native baptised
rhrififciaus and fKl cOmmutucasU j a boys* school, wlncb in the
same year was attctlded by 177 pupils, from the ages of six to
sixteen ; a girls' school with nti attendance of 164; u staff of two
or three European clergy, and of thirty lay readier*, native and Euro¬
peans, mid a dispensary for Muheun medium and Christlmis alike. I
shall, I hope, l»c doing noinjustice to Mr. Brace's stdf-sacrifidDg and
unflagging labours* if 1 say that his converts are drawn exclusively
from the (Joust inn and not from the Moslem fold. Mohammedans
have been baptised ; but as I lmvo elsewhere said they have relapsed,
and I have never myself encountered a fall-grown converted
Mn^ulmaiip It wonld t |^rhap& ? savour of disrespect to an institu¬
tion excellently managed] if 1 added that here, as in many other
parts of the East, the results do not, in my opinion^ justify the
expenditure both of labour and of money. The mission is not over
popular with the JSl-es-Saltan, and is naturally much disliked by
the Armenia ii hierarchy, who look upon its agents a* poachers on
their own preserve*. To an English traveller it is in the highest
degree agreeable to alight, in a M range land, njwna small colony of
liis own countrymen^ which is also a centre of hospitable culture
anti of learning.

Finallyj there in resident at Julia a small European lay com¬
munity numbering about a dozen and composed of the officials
of the Indo-European Telegraph Department , and of the
™kmy representatives of the British or foreign mercantile houses
already named, who are engaged in trade in Isfahan. Nothing can
eatcccd the friendliness and warmth of welcome that are extended by
this little community to strangers, I see no reason myself, beyond
that of old custom, why they should continue to reside in Julfu

KfHlM TKIIKKAN TO ISFAHAN

rather tlum in tilt! city, when- tire llioir places of bu^itiesa, and
whither they have to walk or rule a distance of tlliite miles every
morning, Rents urenmdi higher in *1 uHh.aud the atmosphereis,na L
have mi id, cramped and narrow, f n former times the large Christian
population of Juifa conferred * sort of protection upon European
Christians compelled to live in or near the capital, But the obliga¬
tion is now em irely reverend* Thera is no doubt that foreigners might
reside in Tafi&nii with perfect impunity, and it is the Armenians
of Juifa who benefit by the existing arrangement, which gives them
n security that they would not otherwise enjoy. In considering the
small estimation in which Christians generally are held by the
uneducated masses in Persia, it must furl her be remembered that
the Armenians are the only Christum population known to themt
ami that if fl traveller protest * 'is laith ami finds the derlii ration
received either with iiidiffivcDut' or with contempt, if is In nine
cases out of ten because he is at once associated with the none ton
desirable attainments of his fellow-Christhum of Juifa.

tn conclusion, let me devote a paragraph to the few sights of
interest in the i in mediate neighbourhood of Isfahan, f )f these the
r||||lrf bent known are (lie Minim Jnnibnn, urShuking At marers,
miimr. t- 0 f fsiilebdaii. or Guladan, a village about six miles to the
west "f Isfahan. Here there is the tomb of a Sheikh Abdullah,
though what particular Abdullah no one appears to know. Hi*
sarcophagus, a big rectangular chest, stands in an open, vaulted
nwffi, and upon either side of the facade above the arch rhe the
twn iniuiireiH En an additional height of nbout twenty feet,the entire
Ktructura being of brick. A small spiral staircase in the interior
of either minaret leads to the summit, which is pierced wish open
arches, 1 An individual usually ascends the right-hand tower
where, by preying again at the walls and swaying to and fro, he
imparts on oscillation to the minaret, which, passing along tin* in¬
tervening platform about thirty feet, in length, is eomniotucated to
the other tower; so that both of them visibly sway in company
with the operator, describing a deviation of several inches from (he
perpendicular. Writers have exhausted their ingenuity m the
attempt to explain this phenomenon, which is, of course, attributed
by the remans to the wonderful properties of the defunct Sheikh.

1 Titvi-rulfr lar1»J«l In W» 7*.. iln «t ihr stmlanv »"■»**■

which M in hi, flay: aUhHgfe whj Iw "hould «(■«*■* a a«

up the rtlrri.ir of t hr minaret, in eonteiiipi of thr -tnirway, I caum* explain-

PERSIA

One traveller is convinced that the towers arc connected Lv a chain
concealed beneath the platform; another says that from the ground
to the summit they are detached from and, m to speak. en clewed
in the maim building, which experiences apcl transmits the oscilla¬
tion easily excited in the ^epnrato towers. Mme, Dieulafoy says
that each tower has for its vertical axis a wooden framework bxed in
the staircase, and run thus, when agitated, describe slight oscilla¬
tions round its own axis. More probably the elasticity of the bricks
and mortar employed have something to do with it r the vjbullion
easily excited in one tower I wing then communicated along the

Tii>: s zj \ k ix i"i MiNAaam

tympanum of the main arch to the other. Dr. Wills calls them 1 a
terrible fraud/ though for wjuit reason I do not understand. There
is Bo fin ad, and still les~ is there any miracle. The only follv is
that of the visitor who is in the smallest degree excited h\~ so
commonplace, even if uncommon* a manifestation.

At a slight distance from the Shrine of Abdullah rises an
luted rocky hill r the summit of which is crowned by some ruined
eit» 4 iud buildings of mud-brick, This is called the Atesh Dah,
from a tradition that a fjrealtor was here erected by
Ardeshir (Artaxerxes) Lopgimimns, The tradition may be true,
hut rht- present ruins are not aid. Immediately to the south of
Julfu the ivd rocky ramparts of the Kuh-i-Suffh (from an Arabic

FltOSI TJillElWX Til ISFAHAN

word sigmfviug a lionise on ft high pl«e or temc®) &am® the
landscape with their gaunt usd ragged oullinai. In a ««*s °>'
terras on their northern front, less than half-way up and overlook'
ing the capital a pavilion or aummer-booK- was built by Shah
Suleiman, and Called TakhM-Siddman, upon the site of u former
hermitage. Only the mins of the villa now remain, but the climb
is repaid bv the fine view. A neighbouring rocky height supporta
some ruins* also of modem date, but bearing the name of Kaleh or
Tukht-i-liii^tnm. from a tradition that the national hero built ft
fortress on this sib-. At the foot of the Knh-bSufi* was situated
the famous paloce of Femhabsd t Abode of Joy), to which its royal
architect and master, Shall Sultan U™»m, w„ so devot- dly at¬
tached that when the Afghans inflated PwshS h - ™ quite ready
to sacrifice his Capitol if only the barl.mituit would leave bint his
palace. The latter was distinguished less for its buildings than for
ite wonderful terraces, and lakes, and gardens, w hich were the ad¬
miration of observers. The Afghans, it U needles* to »y,
neither the scruple* one the pe«tmof the a^tranndatuig monarch.
Fmahabad, having been hastily evacuated by him, m occupied by
them and was burned to the ground when, a few yews later, they
were expelled from Isfahan. Its sib- is now a wilderness ol rums.

Hut little more imposing art- the retnaina ui tiie t-elubmtixl ca.-t r p
of Tubm-rak. which was t he deposit of the Hoyal r ! lvasure under
the Sclavi kings, and whose fortification* won- described m such
glowing terms by Chardin, Kwmpfar, and “tbers. Already, m
I7Ci, Lt= Brun found them shuttered ami tottering, and tb.- sur¬
viving walls are now little more than heaps of t lay.

Truly its he turns his bock on Mtihan nfler completing the
local itinerary, which i have here marked out for him, may I he
traveller ob^aiT^r in the wunls of Hicllev ■

Lrxik on iuy works* ye mighty, and de*|i&ir -
Nothing beside remains* Round the decay
Of that colossal wr»>ck, boundless find biin?

The lone find level sands stretch fur away.

SUPrJLKMENTAIlT RfitfTES.

KAEHXS TO ISFAEIS* {rid NnliUal), A. H, Schimlk-t ^ timrU-f.

En Ku/re OrSi'liwv'rti" Kaor^a. K- Slide CSM). Si* tenth* to Knit,
vul. 11, cap. T.; Ofll. M S- Bell (ISM). Blatbr°"T* .Va^irw, J«rt «««.

IJWUIM TO GUL»*»«r, E- suck (W*l). ««.; ©rt- 1)011 **

ta ruux TC KASOAVAJl, E. Ftamlin(ietO>. BfllflAiai* i. t^.tjrriu. ;

E. Floyer (l$T?) F tfrrap!caps. irL-xfUi

miaLv

CHAPJSH XX

FRO:M ISPAHAN To SHiHAtf

ills! nf []h- ivftTy WhcH L by thfij lllive mil'll thuo A i/yii lb. A,

Althoijiui the European t rave Her will have made -Jolfe big head¬
quarter* during his residence at Isfahan, Ins jwl.-hurses will upon
wrival have been obliged to return upon their tracks for

a distance of over three miles—paid for as one farsokh _

to the vhtijHTf-ihttHefi in Isfahan, arid Inmi (heir rlu«y will have to
he ordered beforehand to come nut again to Julia when he is ready
to stan upon hi* forward way. The table nf stations and distances
upon the mml to Shims is as follows : 1 —

XilllJr l*f IlIlL

IHilaDcr

Jnrmlki

A p| >rtiJ.j-
UMIf

■ U^tllJiiT

Lis ftillitfi

J£*m# Hrt Sutlfm

/-fr *****

4ppnilr

mau

■LLiJun^f
lit olUlp

1 - -

KJj.m-i-KJojsvb

Mar# .

Ddiblil^r^-N.fE >

Mayor , . ,

Marnhab(a^00 ft.)

Kiimjjbi'h j , r

Kawrunahort

M :l k.iiid Lleg^L

C^iv«nr] -f) .

Vcrditlmsc <<S P HXJ

PllraEi .

ft-> . . .

j5*rgbtm

HhtiilghtAu „

Sbimaf (4J5I3 ir.)

At*teh t .

8tim - *

Total

ti i

f " Telegraph rtrtli-mf ■*

Quitting the squalid and dusty precincts of Julfa anti leaving the
Armenian cemetery, with its shattered grfivestcmes. on fhe right, the
track mount s the dopes of the Kitb-i-SufFn, until we mtch a point
w here, iik the rood dips into u Inflow, ^ inevitably turn mund in
the saddle to take a parting look at Isfahan* There, outspread over

1 tn addition to the antborUiftf abwly quoted for the journey from Tuhenn
U> fcfnliiiik Emil uu>-t, If Bet nll^olwbota have iU, described iho imrell fnwn
Jsfa]]in» to Shiran T iuny d|# fur tl* latter Ulfl following works: J- R Tmramicr
H6W), Trutft^ UR v. cip, sa^ ,T. fctruj* cnji. j£siiil_|y,; i$i r J B

("hartlin (l*H)p {edit. Lnnglfci), 10 L visr. prp r 1VM14; C. La Uruo {1701-

C) h Tntnh r cap. I. fi ; A. Uiiprr- (1*0*), r*ftfpr m /Vr«-. voL L cap. nr,.

J- S thiakifi«h«wi {ISlfl), vo], i, atp. **L to coil f LfettCenant T-

LufflpJfn (1820), J*tu rnr t/from 7nAi* t pfj. 75M1S. ■

PROM ISFAHAN TO SHIRAZ

thp will** plain. nra fc!u? eujxjlaa and minnrs, the pigeon-towers and
tfrniced bridges, the long avenues and straggling suburbs of Hie
fallen capital. From this diatoms® the pitiless handiwork of decay
is blurred and imperceptible, and a certain majesty seems still to
licn-er over the wreck of departed grandeur, i know of no city in
the world that has ever struck me with a greater pathos, or whose
figure is wrapped in so melancholy a garb ot woe. I ha wad

descends to the post-station of llarg in a small desolate valley, in
which, with the exception of a ruined caravanserai, it is the solitary
building. After leaving Marg, the track climbs a uteop acclivity,
known as the Kotal-i-LYchiu, or Pass of llie Stairway, from tin?
fact- that, steps have in place® been hewn in the reck. I Ida pass,
however, although to the timid vision of Sir It. Ker Porter it seemed
• literally a ladder hewn in tlm mountain for the surer footing of the
horses and beasts of burthen, who, as we viewed them indistinctly
from below, appeared hanging from the rock in the air,’ i* in no
sent* remarkable, and is child's play compared with the famous
b>t<tU of the Sbirai-Bushire route that will be encountered later on.
Having crossed the ridge, I cantered guily along the level (bin to
Mayor, passing on the way a band of six Russians, who had excited
great interest In Jill fa by their mysterious movements and by the
unexplained character or their mission in these parts. So one knew
whether thev were traders or Goverament agents. I entered into
conversation with them} their leader told am that they were private
travellers, joumeving for their own amusement to Bnahire. a state-
loent which was ’belied by their obscure appearance, and was sul-
seqaentlv invalidated by the discovery that they were engaged on
a sort of raving expedition to Abyssinia, for which place they ulti¬
mately embarked from Bombay. The character and quality of tin*
men whom Russia employs on these semi-political undertakings,
disguised under a mask of colonisation, are among the puzzles of
the East.

Mnyiir wns ms* a flourishing and agiwnbk* place, and 7 m
Tavernier's day, ‘consisted of above 1,000 houses. Its walls and
towers are now in ruins, and almost the sob' relic of the
good days gone by is the caravanserai, originally built, by
the mother of Shall Abbas and afterwards restored by Shall Suleiman.
Tim struct ure, which is built of I irick upon a massive stone founda¬
tion, is now in a state of dilapidation, but in the early years of the
century it mi described by travellers as the finest erection of the

kind in IVr^iii, I do not know that Mayar or Its summiidings
possess any other interest, however faint, although the hills which
sum)ond its valley awoke in the bosom nf the susceptible Porter a
paroxysm of the most profound emotion:—

I might have thought mysplf ftgftiai the mml s:<v.ngn tracks

of the Caucasus, climbing the scarred ridges of sl dwttered, rocky world.
The whole seems as if the Titans laid really l*een at war, and this the
scene of their tearing up the hills and pitching them against each other,
to fall, at any ha/nnk in the jkdl-inel] heapK in w hich they stand.

If the transport* of the worthy Baronet have never served any other
purpose, at Least I have ^ften been grateful to them for tho relief
r bay have imparted to monotonous sections of my journey.

The mod follows the valley, which is barren and without in¬
terest. to Knmisbeh. A confused vision of big pigeon^towera ; of
a tattered graveyard, to which a crowd was hurrying a
newlynloceased corp^?, with the strange mixture of irre¬
verence and mourning that characterise* a Mii^uhnmi funeral ■ of
a tumb!#-dawn city with crumbled walls and i non hie ring towers;
and of a large* blue dome surrouiidiHl by old c hrtmrx^ and gleaming
fitfully through an opaque whirlw ind of dust _stilI remains in my
memory w I think of Kuniiaheh. This place, which is the Komsu
of Pella Yullu and the Commhu of rhardiu h was over three miles
in circuit in the latter & time, though even then it hud fallen greatly
from the epoch of Its prime under the earlier Hefavi sovereigns.
its present, desolation is over a century and a half in age, having
been inflicted by the Afghani* in their northward inarch against
Isfahan in 1722. a visitation from which the place Inis never re¬
po vend. The blue dome covers the last resting*plitce of Shah
lieza. who in described bv Chardin as a grandson of the In lain Iteza,
but api>mrs more probably to have been his brother and a son of
I he Imam M usa el Karim (the Forbearing), In the early part of
the century the Persian Shiahs were much less fanatical about the
entry of Christians into their mosques and sanctuaries than they
now are; and we have records of visits by former travellers to
shrines which are now only accessible at a certain risk. Bucking¬
ham, who, however, spoke the language and poai;*! ns a pilgrim to
the Moslem shrines, entered the Mosque of Knmhdieh in 1816, 1
and described its interior. The inner court f around which are cells
For dervishes and pilgrims, contains two tanks, in one of which

1 FnrrW* voL i. ]>p v *30.*.

FJ;i>3l tSFAUAX in SIUllAZ

till

have always liven kept a number of saoreJ fish. Two eetiMmea
ago the sanctity of these creatures wtw indicated, as liarain aw
Dr, Fryer acquaint tin, by * their Nose® and Finns Irtntisr bung wt
Gold Rings T besides these lu re were Ducks devoted to aa t.>ppisJi
a Maintenance, 1 The declining fervour or the more pmetical
temper of modem times inny be variously held accountable lor the
disappearance or these evidences of distinction, but the hah still
remain, 'Hie tomb of the saint reposes behind a brass trellis or

grating beneath the blue-tiled dome.

On the further aide of Knmisheh extends a level plain, fringed
|w mountains on the left or eastern side, which was the «»d» of
„ r a Wilt? fought in 1835 between the army of Mohammed
.Ai»' r shiih, commanded bv Sir H, Lindnay-Betliiine, and the
combined forces of two of hie nodes, the Firman Fir™ (p^oody
Governor-General of Fare) and bis brother, Hi^n Ah
Simians-Sultaneli}, who. upon the death of old Fath Alt Shah,
combined to dispute the succession of their nephew to the Ihroue
Tile Toyal forces consisted only of two regiments of Tegular 'nh^O-
some cavalry, mid twenty guns-less than 4,000 men m ^.1 he
pretenders bad a much larger army, but were deficient in artillery,
in which Lindsay (or Linji, as the Persians colled him) luid a do-
cidcd advantage. A .nisi grated the two fortes, who are smd
to have been unaware of end. other's propinquity untd the Arme¬
nian wife of Colonel Shee, serving in the Shah’s urrnv, heard a
shot Bred in the opposite camp. Hethune then took the enemy y
surprise. and aided by bis guns, which battered down the wails of
a deserted v illage it) which they had stationed themselves, soon put
than to flight. Marching rapidly upon Shiraz, be there took
prisoner the two rial!limits and sent t hem captive to 1 ehemn. iIn

rebellioti wm t£bjpcruah®i] outset.

Several villages an- passed in the hollow of the plain on tin-
right hand, and eventually the hamlet of Kishura is rewbed lying
« in D depression at a little distance off the road. Here is

Drf’iEfi ft vj)hp rTilI tbe rh^jvnr~kfutitch T blit ftfi stftgc takes it&

tutme from the walled village of Maksud Bcgg* (a httle further on
imd nearer the extern valley-wall >, which itself, according to
Chardin, was named from ‘the lute l-ord Steward o! inim to
whom it owed its elevation. On the next stage to ’i cadikhost, n
distance of twenty-five miles, 1 only paasa-d one place on the way.
This was Amirnbad, the Abode of Trust or Safety, origin ally erected

t’Kijm

tii

as a fort if it'<l redoubt against tho Hiikhtiari freebooters by Dautl
Kimn, brother of Imam Knit Khan, the ivtcbrated (I over nor*
General of I'flra under Shah Abba*. For two centuries the locality
cojitinn.'il to attract tho hostile notice of those formidable tribes-
tnen, and in about 1815 tho whole place was rebuilt tor the pro¬
tection of wayfarers, the walled enclosure including n mud fort, a
Caravanserai, a mosque, and baths. The members pf the early
British Kin bossies to 1‘ersin and travellers in the first half of the
lire sent century were always instructed to keep a very sharp look¬
out til the bolt, of country stretching southwards from this neigh¬
bourhood tu I Mdml; und in their page* Baklitiari is a designation
a]most interchangeable with the minis or robber. The nomads aiv
now kept in tatter order, and Am inti bail is no longer n tiect-ssary
lmvcn of security. Nevntheleeij, there are but few signs of life or
habitation on this part of the southward track, so effectually hiii-e
tile risks and exactions arising from contiguity to the mufti road
drimi away n sedentary population. Neither *an the road from
Isfahan to the Golf did. I observe many signs of through traffic.
Caravan -1 of iniilej and camels are pas fed, I nit there is no general
stream of wayfarers nor any migration of families similar In those
90 frequently encountered on the Mesbcd-Teberau road. If the
present extent of traffic between tin? capital and the cities of Isfahan
and Shims is of nt nil a fixed or normal description there would
L' some difficulty in filling a single railway train ,„r diem between
those centre). On the plains hereabouts; grows the an hi plant from
which the gstm ammoniac, or wbcfr, is derived, and which is more
or less common in tho hilly country from Kerman to Kermanshah.

A little beyond Aminabod, the administrative frontier between
Irafc-Ajemi mid Fare is crossed; and we enter upon the province
****** ***** m na »>», in history, and in population, has
the best right to be regarded as Persia Proper, and «s
the central hearthstone of Iran. Para, or Fareiatan, is the same
word as the Greek Persia • and. originally the title of n ^tioa
only of tho empire or Iran, 1ms begotten the name which
European* have, from remote times, applied to the whole In
tin* province were the capitals of the Armenian kings,
larargajc, craepolw, latafchr; here the Sawroisn monarch*,
whilst they favoured a more western capital, frequently resided,
and have left, m close proximity to the palaces and tomb* of their
predecessors, the sculptured records of their own majestic ruh {

FROM ISFAHAN TO SBTRaZ 85

unft here, in rhe cradle of the Dative raw. n succession of ambitious
si.']rijers of fortune, 5 [iriD^inp, as a rale. From a humble slock,
ihund it possible, in tin- early dkirpiniiiiliffliand ultimate atrophy
of the unwieldy empire of the Khalifs, to carve, with their own
swords, the tk'iirreU'^iigguiR'd reality of an independent kingdom.
Tire first of these was Yakub bin Leith, of Seistan. founder of the
Safari or Copperemitb dynasty, in the latter part "I the ninth
century, whose earliest- conquests were Herat, Kerman. and Furs.
In the relgti of his brother and successor, the Khalifs recovered
their sway, bnt only to cede it a few years later to the Dilemi, or
Al-i-Buynh family, whose founder was a fisherman, and who,
nominally as viceroys of the Kltalif, ruled with great authority
and splendour at Shiraz* Next came the S'ljuk invasion. A
Turkish general was appointed Governor of l’ars, and managed
affairs so skilfully ns to transmit that office tq his son, who again
passed it on in like fashion, seven vicoroya, who-e rule extended
from iUfiC to 1149 A.t>., Iwing thus derived from the mine family.
Knnkur ilia Modud-a chieftain of the Turkoman tribe of Salghuris,
who had been moved by the Heljuks from Khurasan to Fore, threw
off the Seljitfc yoke and proclaimed his own independence in
1149 A. it. It was during the reign of Ababekr, one of Ills sac¬
cessary, that Sadi, the poet, livi-d for thirty years at Shiraz, coro-
potted }!i s - f; ulitii n„ 1 and ■ Batten*’ anil died* At this time Furs was
an extensive and powerful kingdom, seeing that it comprised Ker¬
man, Isfahan, the coast-line and islands or the Onlf, and even the
opposite or Arab shore. When dmight?. Khan appeared ujxin the
scene, Abubekr was wise enough to proffer his allegiance to the
Mongol, wlm responded by confirming him in his office, ■ pntmn-
ag« that was ratified «little later by the marriage of a Salgbnr
princess with the son of Hulska Khan. Here, however, the in¬
dependent line of Atobegf* terminated ; and Fare remained a Mongol
province until a fresh principality was created by one Muburiac-
od-rHu Mohammed* whose title, El Mimafler. the Victorious, was
transferred to the dynasty of which he was the founder. Il ww
during the reign of the fifth prints' of this family that Timur lira!
cauie to Hhirn/. (which prudently aubmiited t-. Iiw arnisi, and flu-re
enjoyed that friendly interview with the poet Hafiz, I hat reflected
cuiuU credit the wit i>r the turd fluid the clemency of the

sovereign. This was in I3fl7. A few yearn later, however, Shah
Honan r, taking ad vantage of the Tartars absence, ventured

VOL. II. v

FEJtSlA

upon rebellion. Timur knew no mercy, Hie? Persian army was
routed* Mnn anr tv as slain, mid all the princes of his house were
put to death. After the break-np of the einpirx- of Hie conqueror,
Pur* fell simeesaivcly into the hands of the Turkoman Black Sheep
nnd White Sheep Dynasties; from whom it passed with the rest
of Persia under the siv&y of Shah Ismail, the founder of the Selavi
royal line; since which tiino it has remained en appanage of the
Persian crown. Few territories have ever succeeded iti detaining
for so long a period* namely six oentiirieR* the ulmosl continuous
reality of an in i viper fa; an achievement largely due to

the mountainous harriers by which it h on all Hides defendm!.

In every liook Upftfr Persia that I had studied, I hud read of
Ve^dikliuet (explained by the old writers os a Pehlevi word,
signifying ‘ God willed it + ) as a village perched upon a
remarkable rock in the centre of a deep valley. Great,
therefore, was my surprise* ns I drew near the end of mv stage,
to see what looked like u low line of houses, just emerging above
the level of the plain. This, 1 thought, could never be YoEdikhasfc;
and 1 runs? have alighted once more upon the elastic fimakh of
KhoraRUD. It was not till I van within 200 yards of the place
that I realised my mistake, or that the exact nature of the
phenomenon Wame visible, Yeadiklun-t in, truly enough* built
nn the top of ft remarkable rock, and this rock does stand in the
middle of a deep valley ; hut the latter, so far from, being u valley
in the ordinary application of the term, is a deep gash or trench
cut down to a depth of over 100 feet, without the slightest
warning, in the middle of the plain, the edge being *ifi clearly
defined ns Shak&pearc'ti Cliff at Dover. One is almost on the brink
of the gully before one is aware of its existence. At the bottom
flows u swift- and dirty sfream toward h the oust: and np>u the
Ihr side the plain resumes its normal level at the top of the fissure,
as though nothing had occurred to break its even expanse, Fraser
?aiil the trendi was 20U yards in width, Binning half mile* The
former Is much nearer the mark, but is somewhat Ikdow it. This
extraordinary trench 1ms exactly the appearance of the dried-up
bed of a great river; and them Is a tradition, probably founded nn
fact, that it won once so Riled, and was navigable by boats. Fraser
said that a road to Yedsd lies for three days in the hollow ; while
Chardin declared that the latter extended for twenty leagues,
seven to the east, and thirteen to the west of Yejidikhast, But 1

TESjLllltll-iHT

MiOM ISFAHAN TO SHIRAZ

1^7

Eiltfriur

am not aware lliat jiny traveller lias either traced or surveyed its
course: and I would recommend to some future explorer a march
across tlii 1 cl*-sort, by this truck. to Yezd,

Eight in t lie middle of this at range ditch, which was the old
boundary between Fars and Irak, is a long* narrow hump of rack,
from 300 to 100 yank In length, severed from the ravine
walk on either side, and standing absolutely isolated in
the gully bottom. Upon the summit of this rock have been built
tiers of cottage^ not unlike the man-roost of bisgird, which I
have described in my ride from Meshed to Teheran, to n height of
perhaps 120 to 150 Feel from the valley bottom ; and it wag the
topmost storey of these edifices, peering above tI ji- level of the
plain, that had looked, on my approach, like a Persian village of
the familiar eiqmut elevation. I own J should newer myself have
detected any analogy in the rock, of Yegdikhii&t to the banging
gardens of Babylon ; but the matter presented itself in a different
light two centuries ago to the vision of the excel lent Di\ Fryer,
who wrote —

Here, at Ijsduchos, vam truly verified what might. be FulJtdomjy
delivered of Seiu Irani is b Pendulotu Gardena and 8manner Houses, there
being Tenements made aver this Moat out of the ancient Fortifications,
barring die Pendnu Incroaclimouts on their tJoutlnOH, whuso Moaldring
Siiiitk hive left the jetting Rocks the liare supporters of these hanging
Buildings;

Entrance to the village is gained at one Hpol only, 011 the south¬
west (Binning erroneously says north-eart) side, by n bridge of
Interior wooden mftera thrown across the ravine end b ud mg to
a single low doorway pierced in the rock, When this
drawbridge is amoved or destroyed the place Is quite inaccessible,
and its Inhabitants nan laugh at mo mu ding Bukhthri or soldiers
demanding a billet., or tax-collectors unduly extortionate, I entered
on foot and made my way down the main street, which is more like
a tunnel than a mud, inasmuch os the greater part of it is under¬
ground or has !>een m completely built over as to form a veritable
subterranean alley. Email vaulted passages diverge froth this, and
flight# of steps lead up to the higher cottages, which have rude
projecting balconies with wooden palings cm the exterior. From
any one of these a fall would mean certain death, I entered with¬
out hindrance a decrepit, mosque, which is said to be the imamxadeh
of Stijid All, son i^f the Imam Mnna 7 who is sported to have

PEHSIA

endowed the world with naO&pring umbered at 1,00(1—a pt-rfonn-
amse thnfc must hflVf? greatly stirred the envy of Fat-h Ali Hindi, the
plubpwgenitivL* Knjnr. The iwk*with its strange siipe^truchir^
onrrowe towards the isostem end, where, from Mow, it looks like
the U«w of some gigantic ship, This wn? the- spit from which
Held Khun, the inhuman half-brother of Kerim KJluh Zend, who
hud flJtamtipd the real sovereignty uu the Vekil’s death. while
t mini li ml; northwards In 1770 ugnlusf Ills nephew All Mur&d
Khan, ordered S he leading inhabitants of Yozdikhast, one after the
other, to lie hurled down, iieciutse the villagers declined to satisfy
his merciless cupidity. Eighteen hud already perished. For lib
nineteenth victim the monster selected a neyirf, whose wifi- mid
daughter he commanded at the same time to be delivered to the
soldiery. This sacrilege proved too much for the tolerance even of
hie own irt.lemhmts + That night, they cut ihe ropes of hi* tent,
which collapsed upon him. The villagers rt^hetl in and BEitraficd
n legitimate vengeance by stabbing the brute to death. 1 * 3

At the base of the are □ number of caves hewn in the
neks, which urv nsv<] as sk^p-folds and stables. The <7,^-**-
(AnneA is in the bottom of the mviue on the near side of the
stream below the town. On the far side is a earavimscrah origin-
ally Of the Sefhvi nge* but restored in tin? early years or the present
cent li rv by a governor of Ears, *limbing the rovers*? side of the
gully, I fumed my back on Yezdiklmut with the reflection that it
was one of the must curious places 1 had ever seen. and continued
my ride tow unis ShulgistMi.

Xn sutiiiEier an alternative route, lying mow to the west und
shorter bv twenty-five miles than the postal road. in frequently
sUi-mnten taken fmtn Vezdikhast to Shi™. It runs rfd Dehgcnhi.
TOirti’ Asups^ LFjau (where Bahrain Gnr* 11 1 ^ sporting Sasssnum

monarch* lost his life in a quicksand while pursuing the wild
ass, from which he was named)* and Alaytft, 1 But it is not to be

I 7i „> frUHTY 131 first rclntiN'l by Eh%q Kmukliu, who wm* *1 VcslUih&rt uoly
WV cti yi»r* aiW tbotrntftfly bud uOcum-J m a T«nr f Acl,

lt pL 3irt,a?). Sir Ik K. Farter* in III ** Rati oilier traveller* at ntwmi the wimp time,
coons at Ywdlkliruit with ntL old muiti F Ihe m>\d nirvivor L>f the cutnatroph^
who, though ftfkMUy rnnlmoA by the FidUiiidml been fcill fwl by IL hnl limA mnnug ^i
to crawl; nivtiy an'I »™i bits life,

3 route wn* 1 -lSwu mill l^i^ccbed by \*AU Tavernier airl ThfcraoL Ln rhe
svtuntiKlith centiUTt aod in mate recenl rimes by J. ?. ftueldhghnm (101(1), TVwr^^
vot. L pi- JSU-i Ss Culottfil Jahrwm (isi T). JiiVrw'tf /rtf« JWu*. cap, viL : Sir

I'iyiM ISFAHAN in SUJIiAZ

(10

AbuiU-h

recoil mi endu'd t- ■ the stranger, seeing that (unless a dev 3 tit ion be
made) it - both PfLsargoda,? and Persupub. 1 *.

Nor h in g of interest market! my ride over a desolate, gravelly
plain, bounded by high hills on the f r to Hhulgistan, There
are n rained caravanserai of Shah Abbas, and 11, dirty
imum&idfh with a green-riled cupola, covering the re¬
mains of -Mohn m in edj a son of the Imam Zdn-eJ-Abidin* A
similar stage conduct to Abode h, a large walled village* sur¬
rounded by numerous gardens, well-watered, and planted with
tnt^. Having galloped on in front of the 1 tried to find

my own vffiy to rise Telegraph-office by Following tlie wires, but go!
involved in the stuffy alleys and amid the blank mud- 1 walls of the
town. At the time of my visit Abudrli wm temporarily celehiWted
for two young panthers, which bad been brought dp ns pets by the
officer of the Telegraph Department stationed then?, and which
roamed atioufc his house and garden at their own sweet will;
although having reached a period of adolescence they were rapidly
booming rather ugly customers* Thu place has n more abiding
fame for the Ijcaotifiillv-carv^d kttshakfi t or sherWt-spotms, and
boxes, which are made from yrttahi. or pear-wood, and ?h untlmd^
or boxwood, in the neighbouring villages. The former, though
wrought by simple peasants, arc veritable works of art; ibe bowls
of the spoons being hollowed out from ft single piece of wood till
they are almost jls thin as paper, find quite transparent; while the
handles are models of fragile and delicate filagree-work. The
earrings for the box covers and silica are worked on thin slips,
which are then glued on to a rustic box.

Continuous villages and evidences of cultivation hordes* on the
road, which coniilines in a south-east direction T from Abndeh to
the next pent-station of Sunack, whence a well-known
caravan route diverges wfi Aborgnh to Ve/d. For
several miles after leaving Sunusk, we proceed along the flat. and
then commence a steady rise till the sixteenth mile* where a
deviation from the track, along the line of the telegraph poles
more to the left, may be recommended to the traveller as saving
him from a needless detour* The ascent continues by vmy inclines
to Kh&n 4 -Kborelu which is merely a post-house and a carmvanei rui

JL K Porter (ISJti) P Trxirrl*. Vfll, is. p|s. I-Ml .r. n. t race r ( 1 & 31 ) , Jkrwmif rfif H r
y?)i*rn]vz*ti (aip, ft: and a, H P Mdhwr^ (1^ Jwrwjf ikr*u$k iJta Gtma*ut r

ipp,

DuhhUl

PERSIA

in ii bleak desert. Already, since leaving Surtnek, we havi* risen
500 feet; but. a further climb of 700 is necessary Ixifol® we arrive
nli our next halting-place, which is the highest point on the route
between Isfahan uud Shiraz. Very desolate and unattractive is
this belt ol' country ; nor is Debbid 11H. Village of the Willow),
th a place of which I speak, situated in its least unattractive
fKirtion, In the middle of a bleak upland plain, surrounded by
» network of small watercourses, are seen the post -house,
telegraph-station, and one or two lints that Constitute the sum
total of Ifahbid. There is no village, and there are no willows.
An artificial mound of earth is attributed by MacGregor to the
era of the 1 ire Worshippers in Persia, and in the first half of the
present century was called by the natives Gumbuz-i-Bakur, and
explained by them as the alto of one of the eight shooting-boxes
of iSabrtms Gar. IJehbid is 7J500 feet shore the sea, and though

healthy enough from its bracing atmosphere, is considered one of
the coldest inhabited places in Persia. A few days before my
arrival the thermometer hud registered twenty degrees of frost j
hut a change in the weather had fortunately occurred; and I
found travelling very' pleasant. The robing hills arid upland
pi sins round llelibid ant the haunts of the Kashkohs and other
nomad trim's of Para, who pass to and fro. at regular seasons of
the year, driving their Hocks to the highlands in the spring, grazing
as they go, exchanging milk for bread, and thieving wherever they
get the chance, i shall have some! king more to say about them
at. the close of this chapter.

On leaving Del ibid the track continues to wind over the hills,
until, at about the fourteenth mile, it crosses a stream hv a very
high-backed bridge of five arches, built by a recent
MurijiiaLi ( 3 o TOraor £ ,f Fare, Close to this is the large rained
caravanserai of Khunch Kurgan, originally built by Kerim Khan
Vekil. The stream is tlic upper part of the Ptolvar River, which
from this point is almost continually with us, watering successively
the plum* uf Murghab, Hajiabid, and Mervdaslit nr Perse poll*,
until it down into the Kur or Buml-Audr. at the Piil-i-Klum.
[■'allowing the valley down for a short distance the track then
turns Abruptly to the right, and climbs a big range of hills by n
steep and very' stony path. A succession of desolate valleys mid
ridges follow, until the source of a stream b reached that presently
irrigates the villages of Kadambtul and Murghab. Gushing out

FHO-U ISFAHAN TO SHIHAE

in great aitinmluiiee fro hi the hillside it mces down the slope, for
nil the world juet like an English trout-stream* At the bottom
of the descent, the villnge of Murghftb m seen, clustered against
the hillside in an open vallfj. The distance from Dehbid is
reckoned m seven fm>ukhit 7 but is probably a little more, or about
twenty-nine miles. lb took roe exactly four hours to accomplish,
cantering whenever til ere was fifty yards of possible ground- At
Murghal) the stream was peopled by a number of wild fowl, i
saw several wild duck* a number of tulips which were quite tame,
mid a great many plovers. Hiding down the valley by the side of
a creek infested with these and other water-fowl, t crosaed a second
small valley containing tlie tiny hamlet of Deb-i-Nau, and passed
over a slight acelivitv into ft third, which contains the nuns ot
the fu.iti.ous capiial of ( \ r nis. Here 1 must pause to deal with
Home fulness with a question that, has throughout this century been
a disputed point of rkrchmology and history, mul which, if it cannot
be definitely solved by travellers who have fcfeftu to the spot* can
still less be decided as m//uufrtf by professors or students fitting,
with their Aitillq and Strabo, or wirhtmnsl at ions of the cuneiform
inscriptions open before thorn, at homo. I have endeavoured to
master both sides of the controversy j and the result at which 1
arrive, even if it carries conviction to the mind of any reader, is
advanced with no dogmatism.

The method that I pro|**se to adopt will to first to describe the
rmtuits fit the remains still surviving in Hie valley of the Polv&r,
Hu i at and, secondly, to state the argument* i lint have been, or
Puargad*. win he, advanced for or against their identification with, the
l.Pl.tf™ iiliC i QJlt p^sjgflds . The rain* fall into ri* *tt|mnite group*,
the site and relative positions of which haw been much confused by
writers who have not been to the spot. 1

i Thu names of th* nhobins whv law fILpciis^I the quartern without ocular
wiU bo givEis prewmtlj- Tbfltnwelhw who have vliited ftnd ibarril**!
the milallis At Murgbah are ah J. F. Mutlcr (180'jy £ir?t Jen ptttp, p. 111 ►

(181,1 )&vwd Jwrnw p. m; air w. Onset0&H>* Trarrfr, vol. LI. rap, xii.
niifi App„ iiii. ] Sir Ik K_ Porter TVuwU wl i. p, *- fv ; C. J. Hleli

(mi), J**r*ry to p. 240; Oh. T«ii« (IMO), VArmhus> kc., VOL il ^

Iforon ae Bode «-l 1. p. 71 rf *ff,; E.FLmdi&Mid P.Ciyte (LM1).

r*r*> Anri#***, Trat, pp- 1NM3* iv. pi*. 1134-^. R. V Rliminn (18511
T#* Fear/ JWiM^Uhfap. xriii■; M. Okutefoy XMn AMitfiw

/tow, part I. Krr Porter and Flondin both give Hiefd nm^ of the rains, For
thobr pttttnt condition,. tffcft the phel^niph^ in Std**> Frnepofi ^. and in Dh ular
fdy B Thai a ooinpaniEiie Idea, may lie formed of Iheif s-tate at itLffdffcdt |JcJiod*i

i’Kksiv

The firafc of these that itro encountered by si traveller coming from
the north raw 111b- rgiuam* of u great terrace Or platform, built mat. Emm
the summit of a hill on the left-hand side of the road, at about 500
yanbf distance. This ia known m the Tnktit-hSulwJiinn^ nr Throne of
Solomon* that potentate I wing the Persian s synonym fu r any great un-
known monarch of the pmdL The terrace consists of a pnrnlldognuii,
two of the sides of which have reccmeiKi centres rani projecting wings,
their dhsienduris being as follows . left wing T2 feet long, retiring
single 5 -I tV-'t. cent ml reives Ills fret, vorres(>nnding reluming nugk IU
Feet* right wing feet, or about 200 feel in total length* Thu length
nf rise uiniii front, faring towards the north-west, to about thesautifL Itn
height is feofc r mu He composed of fourteen layers of is tune. The
whole ia built of great blocks of a whitish stone resembling marble, the
outer surface of which is rusticated—chiselled in low relief at ei
B light distance from the edge. exactly like the great blocks t> it arc said
io have formed \mrt of tlte substructure of llic Temple at Jennmlem,
and flijit are kissed liy the Jews in the Friday observance at the L l 4 l;n-c
of Wailing/ fro beautifully are the stones (of whk'li Kith measured
one over fourteen Feet in length 1 ) Adjusted, that no mortar was used
between them. At most of the angles of junction deep boles Iiave Wn
wantonly ^oo[H^i m the blocks in order to ttxtrnct tlie tnHnl clamps
(probably of iron find lcod) by which they were orignudly held together*
The^e interstices an* now the homes of crowds of pigeons Many nf
the blocks contain on their outer surface curious workmen's signs ; and
it appears prcihuhlr from the evidence of the Upper port of Ui* platform
and from the absence of any staircase, tluit it was never completed.
The* outer Facing lias peeled or been stripped off from much of the
surface* and the character of the intorinr masonry, which is composed
of the blue limC’-.t«iui 1 of the inouiilnin, emi cleftrly 1 r> meen. 1 1 aeetnsto lie
generally admitted that thin platform must have been intended u «support

and of die work of iln* various tirriMs above mentioned* I append a table i lint may
lit Useful to the «t uileut r—

Safest at flu*

TcxLnr 1 lBIMI.
ttL U. |

PI. * i'-wr-e
(UUli,

T#l hr.

Stall® i

Till IL

IiKpqhfnj

(1HUL,

hill

'I siklit-l-SulL'inum .

■ - .

Sttl - 2

144

3,4

Xindnct* or Tooib .

20ft

J3S

dencml remains * .

—

197

131

12-14

inattiptloiu *

—

199

Isa, m

ikiA-rdiefft ,

—

1ST

Fijiurv «if t l jra* .

198

142

Tomb of Cyrtia

81-9

1Q4—f>

IU&, 129

IB-20

* Fl&ndLa said tliftt some Of the rKHiw are fiftix n to fleveuk-en inrtitMt lon^r;
I ml tin ► out tine Im* oWrval throw.

MOM ISFAHAN Tn SHIRAZ

h pftU*! or luril of audience, similar to those that were raised by the
kucccsson of Cyrus ut PettopoIiH,

Descending towards the south on to the level of the plain. til* nest
ruin, rut a dUtwwetf over 300 ynrds, Uthatof the single wall u! a four
st, N‘iit ii sided building that hits lseen commonly called tin* I'ire-tempi* ;

^ Onseley said that the localdesignation van Zmd&o-i-SulciutftH
or Prison of Sokncn}* 1 mu not aware that there is the slightest j unlit!
ration for this purely Hrliitrary nomenclature, beyond the fact rlmr rhi->
building appears to have liwn an exact facsimile of the s^imre tower that,
stands id front of the royal twh-tomUat Nahah-iR«iift*m(™dr the next
chapter) nm l the interioreluunberet whUJi, being blackem-d l.Vsmoke, was
hastily conjectured to hare keen u-»l f.» the rite* of their worship by
the Zo roust rinns. There is, how ever, eve ry reason to suppose that rant K-r
edifice ever was, or could Imve been, a lire temple. The upper duo.de r
in each, entered by a stairresf from outside* wmi on i. part men t without
aperture or outlet "except the .l.on It was roofed over, and had no
vcnimunhution with the roof ; nor could the tatter have aupporusl ntirv-
nltnr, seeing tlsat it was, slightly convex in shape. Moreover, the form
of Uie Persian oW,-yoA- p Or fire-altars, still remaining or reproduced
in seulptunss and on coins, is entirely different There can he httlo
doubt that both of these towers wore sepulchre! indmnuiter, tin- means
of hauling up the heavy weight of a sarcophagus having even ln-vi.
traced ut that of Saksh-i-RasUn. ; and the analogy i‘> so.m of the
Lv.-ia.ij tomb* discovered in Asia Minor, notably that at relniessa*. i^o
minute as to confirm this belief. We need not, however rush to the
conjectural extreme of M. DIeulafoy in identifying the Murghah
t«n‘il) as that of Cembyues, the father of Cyrus. The ajiertyre of the
doorway that led into the inner chamber gape* in the still surviving
wall,i and the remains of the staircase are viable below it- fhe entire
structure is 43 ft » in- high, and 35 ft. 3 in. square, and the Mocks
are of the same material a* the Tali ht-i-Suleiman, held together, not by
n.orinr, but by rremps- They are also pitted with the same incised
orifice*, probably designed with decorative intent, that are visible in

the tower ut NaJtfili-1-Return. . +

At about the .ante disianre to the south, the third rum i* visible
in thj shape „f a single tail monolith, or Mock ,.f chiselled xt-nv.
B Ihwrilwl eighteen feet high, one side of which is hollowed m the torn
,.111-r of a niche (perhaps in older to receive the crude brickwork
of which we «yim the wall, of the building to have Men con.
posed), while high up on the exterior surface are ...igrevLtl in tour

* Early ia the wituiy prts rf all fear w,dU -ere standing, and "

into jvtrt; of two. The -miM - U r,. carried Off by I1 k> native for hoU-^uHBuB

pip9§e^.

PHHSL\

lines ii trilingual inscriptimi, containing the wuftl.fi " Adam Knrash
KhFimyAtluyii Hrtliluimjknisliivfl/ in the Peraimij Susian and A^ruih
tongues -Le* ; I tun 0 yruA, the King, the Adfemeiuaii/ The upper
extremity of tills great shaft Ls curiously mortisi-d In under to recoitv
the beams of tin* roof that covered the Judl of whose walls it funned a
portion,

Another -JlM) yards in u southerly direction conducts 11 s io the
fourth col tact ion of rtMiinms, which consists of a single circular limestone
i * • 1 11 mu C0 * Ull]ft i- 36 feet high, and # ft, 4 in* diameter at tin* bose,
swi destitute of a capital, and standing on a humJ! plinth of black

I basalt, in tho centre of un oblong paved space, thy outer

walls of which an 1 marked by't hree hollowed angle-piers, , similar to that
already disrabad, each bearing on one of it* surfaces the same tri¬
lingual inscription Lha< proclaims the handiwork of Cyrus, This is
one of the few urmluteil columns that imw remain in TW^inJ and mav
with little hesitation fra referred to an earlier and less developed a rein
tectttnd stylo than the tinted pillars of Iatakhr and Persepolis. The
enclosure further contains remains of the hoses of eight columns, and
the stump:-! i«r haae* of furmor doorways on which arc risible a row of
feet, that doubtless once belonged to a pixHctekml bos^relief Hntffair lo
those at Fcrsepolis. Thy prolmbte ebamoter of the building liasas-curad
for it from recent writers the name of the Palace of Cyrus.

At about half the distance to the south-east Is the platform ihat
once supported another building or palace, the bases of some of whose
(V Atlr^rJ in two rDwa six each, are still visible : while at

figure the distance of eight yards from one of throe stands a squared
limestone block, 11 ft. 7 In + liigh, whose upper surface formerly

Cymn

displayed the fame proud assertion of nuthoniiaip, 3 while below it
is sculped in low relief- now defaced ansi indistinct from ill usage* and
the lapse of time— the foment* winged figure that has lieen variously
taken for the fra&utki or genius of Cyrus, and for Cyrus himself.
Th* tlgure ih in profile, more Limn life-uke. and faces toward* the
right. From the head springs the strange symbolical crown that
has been found on Egyptian sculptures, anti which puzzled traveller*
have compered to throe decanters in n tow with kill* un the lap.
It Is formed of two nmu 1 horns, surmounted by two umi r which in
turn are surmounted by the htitJim* or crown of Harpaeixtes. The

1 Moriur in IJW mentioned ihu rtHnaJt™ of uvether at Tdafchr ( I\rwt Jtid mry,
is 141), but it bus 4n« diaappw&L The columns of tha tomb of

Cyrus were also unlhiltal. Bo ore the single calcium on tbo cliff aop at Nak*h-i-
StusLun H and a frogman I which 1 aLielII mention at reruns] L* ; caul m am ttm
column* on Oil- ff tlif royal tci ijj; i* iko mint' place.

* The drawings n f Porter pud mUe^ rtpenduce the in^-riptkm. The eikgmved
|drt of I] ih ■ MKinollih h:M -lioce h vn Inokt rt m[[ ami has db:ip] vared.

FHOM ISFAHAN TO SIUKAK

body » clothed in a long closely-fitting K™* 1

to t h , tirililes. The bur and heart m* ^ly curled, u»< «ri»t

resemble the well known archaic figure at Athene, «W *e * ™

„f Marathon. Two pnins of iMn*" wiug* *P™g from thcaLo " ^ ^
the one pair uplifted, the other iW»pmg to the ™

Hgure carries in its right hand an object which no gm J'Z^Z
flSo to explain, until the fanciful vision of VL Ptealafo y detect

in it a statuette surmounted with the jp-~"

Egyptian jvhntl Or double crown, and | FA

the sacred wrtrut, ‘Hie majority of I ^ ^ £• i

writers liitvi; seen in this likeness the j’, 1 ^( 1

tutelary genius of Cyrus, Others, |

relying upoo the literal woourocyof the

inscription, believe that it is the con- ^

queror himself, adorned with sttritiahw : ha

borrowed from the pantheon of the

people* whom he had vmujuishotL M, jjj.jii v t£jw - j^N

Perret. seeing that Egypt was not ESf 4 fcliVA

subdued bv the Persia a* until tin' _ . ri'L,

reign of OunbyEc*, suggests that th’

pillar was not erected in tin- hfotinu? :*&l. .}&»?

of Cyrus, but after his death and doi- J 1

fi cation, cither bv CTunhynea or by | jifrfc- ■ - r""'*-*

Darius. Mr. Cecil Smith remind* me, ' ' ^2 aT

in furthermoe 1 >t tin? wita, 01 th^ pjut^moA.n M

fact tlmt tlm wife of Cyrus, and mother vi . .

of Cambyses, was, according to one account, * n . E * ypt '^' | J_ 4 jt
(Herod, iii. 1 11), a name evidently connected with the p* ' ' ” ■

«r Keith, and thu daughter of Aprics, who w*.king of that «Jitiy.
If there he any troth in this story, which Herodotus rejected,
which the Egyptians affirmed, wo may find therein n s'Uiu t-mecu
explanation of the Egyptian attributes accorded to Cyrus fa the
relief, and of the invasion of Egypt by his wn ' ambysea.

The sixth ruin, situated considerably to the west, is ilie most m cr¬
esting Of all; for it U the structure that, aceordmg to the theory
. ‘ which 1 shall sustain, In all prebahUity once held the gold

NE& M ffi« and the oorpet of Cyrus. 11 rood** />* » fl ‘ br ".
Etuleinmn bajlt (l( ^ i.i^ks of white limestone, With a pedimented

roof, like that of s Gwk temple, the whole standing upon the sun.nrt

' The tour-winged ge*- is » «*repUcc direc.lv tort™* J* '

.ml Brt of A-yJfia. So WW H.e fringed and thu carted Ul d ^ n -
Babelon's Voiucl »f Uncial Antique. * 0 W- Com\^ u

the**- the wiB^diflnibHB of llio Jewish Alt.

MMESI.V

7t(

of ii which pQfkrijIi Mf ji^ieir hu i‘i.’es^ive steps or tieie of

.>tnfie dimiruakbig in sis they appmuli the summit. The toted
height from the- level of the ground to tTie top of the roof- whieL, how¬
ever, is much worn itwajf in at pre-Kent thirty-six fiit This cimmiH
edifice* which called hr tht* native* KiJjror Jlusjid-i-Mader-i^nleiumn
— Le, the Tomb or the Mosque of the Mother of Solution—stand-in a
forlorn and dilapirfntrd onckflure + thickly strewn with the slabs of
Mussulman graves* Hie or p battered drums of a number of

pillars are still seen embedded in u lew mud wji!l r nr standing alone in

what was oncti evidently a HurroEinrlLog colon nude. It uppeara to be un¬
certain whether this colonnade encompassed the tomb nil round* for
them an« no truces of it on one of the longer sides* The Imek of the
monument is toward* the present roadway, nnd its doorway it upon
,lliE or northern, face. Nor* atmug* to say* did it stand in the

re of the enclosure, the entrances to which can still be traced. It
wrapt^ EsI in a different axis from them ; the design being apparently
to prevent the doorw ay and interior of the sepulchre from firing visible
outride. Entering the emlt&m we my that the entire structure, both

niOM ISFAHAN TTJ SHIUAZ

mausoleum ELtirl pedestal, is compoeed of great blocks* of white, cttlenrcuus
atonic like marble, os smoothly cut tuid perfectly kid ns those in the
preceding fuluics, aud like them held together in several plm-cs with
metal cramps, which have Ixien os ruthlessly dug oatand phinden-d.
The lowest terrace ii, u plinth, elevated only thirteen inches above t In-
ground. 1 The nest three courses are much deepeivand ore composed of
enormous block*.* The three uppermost areshallower. 11 Thedhnendoii*
<>f the plinth ut the base are 17 ft. 1 in. by Id ft- S< hi,; th^c of the
topmost tier are JG ft. by -JO ft, and upon tbis stand* the tomb, which h,
21 ft. long by 17 ft. wide and I & ft 2 in- high- A bush baa intrudedyt*
roots into the crannies of one of the upper tonne** on the south-west
side, while another lias established a lodgment on the roof itself.

Climbing the terraced step* we are confronted with the mausoleum,
which is built of three courses of limestone blocks, tin- lowest eomapond-
Tfc, r - n .L. mg in depth with the height of the doorway. Above the
cbaMtor liigh»ht run.' a, tlii.it projecting cornice, and upon this in super-
imposed the gabled roof, consisting of two tiers of iiinnctw stone* tw„
btocka r^poriog-thn lower course, and one being laid upon them tor i In-
summit. Accra is gained to the interior by a low, narrow doorway,
•> ft, 3 in. in width and only i ft, » in* in height. If 31. 1 heitlafoy h

right, tins entrance. which ia c.. with the thickness of the

surrounding walls, was on« dosed by two doors opening upon each
other, so that both could not l* thrown Wk at the same Umt-» furi her
device for securing the interior from the sacrilege of prying eyes.
(Vouching «o res to enter, we tiiul oatrtlves in an empty chamber,
the coiling and walls of which are blackened with smoke. The tloor
consists of two great slabs, polished ipiito smooth with age, the larger
one being mutilated by great holes, perhaps backed open with a
view to the discovery of whet lay Mow. There are sim.ln. muUla-
twee in the walls, and at the far end n -string suspends iron: side to
njflr le-ant a number at brass, Ml-shapedi trinkets or offerings, i >n the
right'ha ad wall b. carved an Arabic mscripthu. within an ornamented
In-rder, in the form of a mitral, or prayer-niche. The dimensions ><t
the cell are : length 10 ft. a hi,, breadth 7 ft « in. height 0 ft, t> in.
I have entered into these particukre with a view 10 the theory <rf identi-
lirntLoii whirl l 1 hhjil! presflntl? sustain,

• bi the earl* pan at the <*nturj- Lt «*"** hcnm'h the «*>«*.

whence boro- tririflem toJy reported *t* ternwe* torteml -f re**.. ^
llmretoue net* l«tfd the lower tta* which H-dlli top l^"«

one of two Zi. ?< W„. U r hre altnns wln-re re mu ins are * b~«'» J

a «tmll tribataijof the Polrat, V* Ihe i*Kth-***l -if the Tiilcfat-I^tulmftn [ oil ,
3>1 ' *^Thuit .[.TthH :.n- 6 ft. r, In , 3 ft * ift.. ni.rtS II. t> in.

1 The-'lr ik'pEh U tmifuimi I ^ Id In, ead^

I’KUHIA

7 £

\ have said that tin? Persians entitle this edifice the Tomb of the
Mother of HotoiiiuTi ; and nudi appears to have been the tradition
Vv.txUw flmugboufe the Mussulman epoch. Barbara, the Yenetian^
tro.iliLi-:M - m ] 47 ^ a. n rp calls it hy that name, and mentions the Arabic
inscription in th-r Eliterior. M mu Id do's description in 163S might
answer for its present condition ; whilst his nntoni] bewilderment as to
the origin of the legend wns paired for him hy the Carmelite Friars of
ffliimr, who ex plained tlmt the Solomon in questian was doubtless the
fourteenth KlinlLf of that name, who reigned in 7Ih A.n r Father
Angelo, a IHtie kter T ccurobomtfts -Mandddo. Jolin Strays in 1672,
mentions ttuit it was already a place of pilgrimage for * ninny devout
women, who pueih«l tlic tomb with their head three times, and as often
stooped to kiss it, then muttered out u abort prayer, and so departed/
Le Bran in 1 706 found it difficult to understand why Buthsholsi should
lie there interred : there being no record in Holy Writ of Solomon
having left the Holy Land, The superstition as to an exclusively
female place of worship has survived till the present century, when
Mo Her, in I £ 00 , was not ullowifl to enter. Later travellers have either
disregarded the natives' protests or turn* entered, as 1 did, wills out let
or hindrance.

Mori or, in 1H09 S hn> rviatived the universal credit • if Vtfdog the first
to opine that thU fU i he Tomb of Cyrus, which was found despoiled by
5 _ ^ Alexander, na narrated by Arrian, Etfsbo, and other classical

^fWtiLr." writers. And yet, strange Us say* on referring Ui his pngt* I
V t-vr : in ^ ^ ytl *“ V miu ^° Jho suggestion in order to reject it . 1

Ousehsy, who was there in the samn year, adopted a s imitar
attitude. Ker Porter was, 1 belie vet, tlie find Englishman t*p adopt the
idcntiticafion ; but T fancy Unit its original author was Professor
OrotefeniL 1 Tin 1 acceptance or rejection of this theory depends upm
a collation of the passages relating to the actual Tom'll of Cyrus in
dasidoal writers with the allusions t«p Pasargadffi in the Kiri tun inserip-
tiotb and with the local indications which 1 have described on tlie plain
of Murghab. For this purpose the first essentia] is a correct re■produc¬
tion of what the l !reck and Latin historians actually did say ; tuid here

3 Those art! his worrb {Frtt Jiturpsy. p, I 4 B): <W thp position of tim place
Imd omwffpcmded a ii]i the ^ 1 * of Pasai^adin elm wall a* chi? fonu of thin rfrnttura
accord wiLh the description of the tomb of Cyrus uonr i bur city. I rlu.uld have
been tempted m niriga to tlbr piysetit building m lllustiions nn origin/ On the
..Hjiioi Ion of Ins second visit In Iflll be says nothing whatever about the Identity
hat murnly that 'the whale of die remfutw at Sfootgbaub fittest the she of mmc
roiuidmhSc city, ami fambh a ^abject the investigation of whScli wtj] bo well
worthy the labour* of an antiquary * (jSr.o>rq/f Jn^rndy, p, 119),

* fiatiimte litl. ZrUnn#, Nou Ho, Juno )3f0j BOc ] App, m. vot r 13.

of liefcren’s ffi$t*trira( ffcmMtt'hr*.

rum Isfahan to s tmiAZ

7 ®

I must record my aurpriso that t have not discovpt^il u faithful tnuiii-
Intion of them in n single woiflt, enui in those of gmit soholftftt; nncL
that m ttmntt oaraft bypothc*^ have actually been sustain od or rented
u I>fjti jv |HL3|Mik»!i' mistranslate m of the original texte.

The authorities upon whom we have chiefly to rely are ArriuUp
Strabo* Plinyi Quintus Curtius, Plutarch, The two Arst of these, oi
Then* cm- whom Arruiu wrote a work in Oieek on the Expedition uf
riA WTEU r- jjp Xairt f Br a t the oml of iho llrsfe century A.P., while the date
of Strain wo-s ttfahfi.13i a.Dl 20* bnsu their account upon rhe testamony of
Ariytoholu^ a companion of Alexander in his Eastern Campaign, who
bemmo its historian in his old nge t hnt of whose work only fragments
remain; anil of QuericrituE ; a le*s trustworthy authority but also a
oompvwwi of Alexander ratal a probable eje-witiMoss. Quintn* Curtin*
wrote a life of Alexander about 50 a.o. j but his wt is
i- lil 1 1 sacrificed to rhetorical fiffbrt- The date of Pliny. is well known,
isjiljou! TO AJi,, of Plutarch about 100 A.o. With this prefoou I will
proceed to quote the words of the several writr-i .^

Arrian’* reference to the Tomb of Cyrus and the visit, of Alexander
thereto lit 324 a.u, i.* n* follow* : ■-

Alexander hlmsrif witit In* rightist Infantry and with hi» tavnljy-gMrd
some oE hfe bowmen, murehrd (from Carman is) towaid* Ciiaartfidltt in ?mws.
Aod he wau* grieved tl*. thg IeihtlU inflicted upon ihe tomb at Cyxu* p iho ton oi
Cainbvse^ swing tlwt he fouftd the tomb of Cyns broken open *iid d^wdied* w
AditobulUA tdti tu. Forth* latter say* ttwi-t there wn* Ln Fcrrift, In the imwl
piEmdi^. the tomb of that Cyrus. About it lnd h^m planted el grove of all kind*
of trees. and it was watered with Streamy and deep gm» bar! gimrii up In 1 he
meadow. The tomb It^-ir In its lower |uin= had boon wrought of ^anred itene
iti the form wftv ^jQSire: fUtaiabove «M4 house (rf****}^pon it p of storiL-, roofed*
having a demr that l«S within, so narrow that hardly could one man* am! hoof n»
g™t staltatop mu r c*m with much difficulty. In the burae ma placed a gulden
^ofriu, where th* body of Cyrua was traded,and a ocrach beside the coffin ; and Lbti
r pet of th^ conch were of hamm^bcnlm goRoiad li hfti I a coverlet of Uoby Ionian
Tapestries, afar] thick carpet* {or cloak*) of puple wrac stWwn hemnih It; ami
then* were nl^> upon it u tnuk otviI D[lmr ^Lrmnfs of B^yIonian workmanahip,
iE<- «np» further thuc UedbuttroiBKKiand pmpk^ttdvabpraita were piaoe*! then!
(rxPLrl Hjmc of thwa were of ptlip!** and WJ»0 of other oolunrs), and wUHr^hafaiir
and twunlA, and ewdi^P of fbtd inlaid with stones, and ft table ™ placorl th™.
And in the middle nf the (Much wn .1 placed the coffin, whkh heh! the body of
And thpn^ was wiihEn the cnclD-urr, Iisj d by the ascent thru led to the
tttmb. tt hiiudl bouse thnt Isad been made for tbt who guard >4 the iemb of

CW S from the time of Camh.W* Liar jf '-T™* b> nctw - ^ Imruling down
the guard kinship to Win, To tho-o ft sliEwp Wst* given even- day from the king,
anil flxid mca*iri^ of fhw and winr. and a 3]orM ov^ry month for tfl

Cyrus. And the tomb wjc* fa-irrlhed wiib P^ndnn dmfnttcrs: imd theynaid In
lititon it* IbHowsE -O nr i n r I am Cyrus* It*’ of Ciirabj^^ who fOBtided ifco

J [k £>^i, Ji>^p vi SO.

PEIiSilA

Eijiplh: flf IVmiiL, and win King uf Ada. Grudge mo n<* therefor* l hi* Bjonu-
S3 cm Li*

Ali-aniRler (for St luuJ bt'fis on ulij.^cr cif great «H‘ kj him. wlica he ^kiuM

rnfen Pfrei^to nomi! |M tlm Unnbof Cytm) fotiml all the other ibings carried aw*t
**« only cl jo oqHin and the couch. Nuv T they Iml otrtti^i tlw very of Ojnaa,
canictl af th-ei Ud of the ^tiffin* mvi hrul cdm f4irt>i. fJm nmt the

Coffin ltnelf they hud tried to reafce UgltL of buritau for theautf Vus, utul in thi*
Hghl to CRiry, I'iittiogr ]“irl of it in pieces, am] IjniU'rimjr port nf It Iih Put
^■]ini Ihis WLirk of thrift fl Id not fore veil, ihcu they hfud left tho coffin (Lnil gLinr
And AidnfoLptoii suj* I toil hr- hWtf ^ appointed by Afejnuirkr to ad urn mmt
ien tnnihnf Cjrrti-.andfo]>uT Wk MAh parts Of ihi- bndr n* -till n-mubi! in
the L'flfftn. in ml to put the I i rl upon It, Hind to repair mjrli portaof the CN>flin a* hud
]*>M\ injured : and to tie fllkfo upon rbc wooh, anil la nMUft: all tfn--ftth.frtilings
thfL *- ifcfld ham phoet.1 then’ for fukirtuacELt, belli lii Humber and likeiH^> to their
ofciW tlaat i *ml to rfo nway villi the tluor hyhiviHirig j t up jmu and
with mortar, and to stamp upon tliu mortar ihu royal dgnet ,
Anri Affioiidfi *effte«l ibi L Mu®i who were gnutiluis ol the tomb. Hud tartimri
them, -o that they rhoctld Llm ciner- of the dead. But tin y, nlhelt

toituit4i‘-i!F(»N.^ turtjurijr* neither against thetrurivf* nor aeij other, nar wwv
nofiyiCTwl In any other imj r?f Iwlnjf privy to thf deed. Ami upub tikis they wen-
|i.-t jro by Alcsimtcf. 1

1 hi connection wttli tfw Egyptian attribute* nf the baa-relief of Ci - - yH

Tritli I hr Bi^tAlnn MMomtdg Kit? tin I hut ]„» ulr«u|y l**,, -Hj.’ nh ,t j h
explanation nf the above poamgc, which njijumr- to indicate a bum of wmnltuty

'-hnracteT in fact, no lew [hnn *» -mniMfUMi uf t'vrus’

r .i.r[^' Sir. Cecil Smith *mUlue the hi] Inurin'.' iruennting tote: • In ntnrnw
wirh till* MMinl nil'll, of inKHncnt prsdlMd hr I he Acluetaanha V1 T . ) r .

„„ i.iUI Inwiniojiliii^l of ttoue. the d ( Cynwua, titiim& y 'a ^ lta „
tljfli! nwiiTiitl, fur Jt i-tood njion n FrXfj^, «ri,l avu, cniJIy tircutabtf, f,n the
plunderer, lm-1 nt and batti-rtd it ic, nahe it portnMu* it Wl> , ^nlimUlc (,Mfapr-
wise th *V wmlM !1|,[ to tarry H acontrfjn*: to

|_1 liinigh Dot irf Ciiltl, SL- It n-ouM hrive tjcim too l,«iv> for I hi: *A[np> I’n^unuililv
ll,, ‘ “S" 1 ' 1 " ™ (irineipally on (ho 11,1. iwomse tlirv carried tliat oli i ra vinit The
]»«er jLirt of the v.-tlln betiin.i Further, the nctaa) body w« al j|l ir) a can dfti on
lo bo broken up, rd aipa tjdlnjr the exprmeJcn employe,!, wlietvae one would
e*|Uf t ri iTTft TliCM 1 fMte are intclllgibte. if w « supptws that the hotly | ta( l
hwu uiuinnufieil. In JtccurinuK with tW ii-iinl pmcllco, tlio mbmuiy would be
enelowil in a Mdarwood wi following the otUlihe or the nmtnmr 'with I Id
ridily -U-roratetl and gilt. The rain ml Greek word for thl* wwildbe wtu*,
*“ "'*<&*< ^nsophav-u- Sueh » lid would ba worth cartyinj

-iff Thu wuntd aceount, too, for the breakihg-up of the -body" in the

- fnr umuuiNIti, kc.. among the mummyflatly.. The loummv i„ iueuse

nmild have ulnod („ ll> W ! [„ tfw Egyptian rite) u rm a couch, with feet In

’ f ''. rrl ' '" . lll>n ,'' tlia term employed by Arriiu,. fe the

riatiiml wurtl for the iir-nal SjfyfiUafll mclhod of decoraliriu- wi-.-leu fumhure with
t,[ re l , '- ita ' ™»n«l ->□): and in front or this couch (asnhmuue to the

!inbqueUng COUdi) would lave ftood IhntoWauf oEeringflfthr r.Jr.i.flT Aninh'i

‘ L ' 111 w ' ,t| ' thI * lt,e * ^iil the immumcnl should have taken tin- eeri'i'm!

fiirtti n pyramid, tl,„ taluml ehupe for the tomb of an EjgvprEau
f Irmlli.The “gold h.ljild with Broae*." iwmtlrrtwdboth hr -Lninnond^roiio tw

FEUM ISFAHAN TO SHIRAZ

Strabo^ utilising the flamo materials* differs in unimportant details,
lint generally corroborates Arrian :—

Thun ha (Alexander) came to Bruajgaiiie * and this wtyi the ancient abode of
ibt king?, And there ho wkW thf Eomb of Cynw tn a parody a tower df HO g^-nt
■tic, concealed beneath the thicket of tme^ln lt« lower port- mflartie, hot in tta
upper pm- luitfhpA roof and n shrine, with n wry narrow enfnmoe. By khU
An^tnbuhis upvi t ha t he entered i And ho rfkw there a indden couch and a I able
Willi drll5klng-cil]>»> ftiul a golden cuilin, and much raiment, and urnrLtiit'ntsi Inl&irl
with utmit*. At IiIh first visit bo saw lhe*e things 3 belt itfmwardi they bad been
rflifipnhd, iknd the other things had been earned *w»y s anrl the roach had hem
ftlutfttilrii.il* and the roSEin,, whltr they hud shifted th« COTpw. hwi wisieh it wns
dear that It wits the work u£ plunderers, and not of thn sttnp, *tnce they hud
loft behind ihn things that it «u not possible la carry 6 way wish kum, And
these thing* hnrl happen#*, although a gruinl uf Mitfi had been aol ftbout Uw
lomU who received every day n .sheep for fr^xt. and every coo nth 0 horse, Now
the absence of the army of Alerandur in Hacfrin and the Judies mi the ocauSon
nf imifiy other renovations belnit made* of winch renovations thin wa^ one. So
wild Ariatobplud; and kho Insuriptton he related from memory a# fellows; *G
man, I am Cjyiuitwtio foundedtha Km 1 arc of the P^Tflaoa. and w&us KlugeE A> 3 a,
Ondn twp eloL t ELurefure ihlsi monument. 1 UriesicritsL^ further saul ihu to wet
ten storey* High : and m the uppermost i-toreywiis placed Cyrei * and the iHmrrip-
tiun wtis in tirnk, chjrmvfH-i in Persian chnnwtere " Here I Ue, Cy™. Kin*? of
EJiijfB + ^ and there anotbur Lei Berdan of the same ftCEuifc.

Pliny meredj $ui d : ' J —

On The«■; i4*e (of Bertapabs) the Ihtpl hold the farkmssof fbsu^ardn* la which

b I he tomb of Cyrus,

Plutarch* in lib LLfu of AkfiUitkr, wrote as follows :—

Thou lindlhU the tomb of Cyra* broken opon, Its alow Ibft ikiim that had done
the wrong, though the Offender tm' a Fdhean. and not of the h-nal dint Engmshed.
by till tn 1 ■ Poly mac bus. And havifijr read tbs ini^rijwioti he nfilpre'l it t-* l# en¬
graved Wgidn. below" in Greek clmructers? nnil it ran tbu*? 1 ^ nuin, wbrafiever
then art* and from whuntesOerer thM wmefft (for that tku wilt OJfflC 3 know],
I am Cyru^r who founded iho Rmpuv of She Porsianj, Grudge me rmt + there Tore*
this littla earth that coven my body.* things caU*«l to tsr f®re

moved, when bfttfftlkd IQ mind tha un^rtftlnSy atid the vicissitudes nf thlEg»-

ilikally n n Hint us CurtiUA 7 s obviously unt rust worthy^ gave tlw follow-

mg version t —

Fur It happened thftt Ali^rasader ntdewd thu tomb of Cynw to bo ef«kvd F
whrirein hJtd been buried his body, to which b« wiihttl to offer ob^quift^ H*

pmhfibly be rtferted to the specially Egyptian jewellery of geld Inlaid With enamel,
wlijch would not, tmtvriUv, have bwn toued ac •■arly a date ^strrpt i el Eirypr.
To him the tMtmesitirf rhe roriw*of Cyrus

aeconlkp to the custom nf her country ffiflj conceivably have teen duo. by her
orders* even, it in common wtlh thowjpged bade relief* havo iMfon rilccote*!.
Slow etitately the ,-iruetuTr at yiur^liflb hanmMiin with the Oii[e#Ttionji required
by ■scsc-h a mode of ^■pultiiin Is inaQlfftSl-

' 6ms, lib IT. t«l. ! &“*• iVat < 20 -

* Ales. Xi 1.

PERSIA

Vf.l ihat St V.TU9 filled with gcM anti silver, since I lie Ferswuu Sind spread tllfll
report abroad; but beyond Lhe rflUen -bifid of CjniB, and two Scythian buw**
and n Hwonb ho found nothing* However* he placed a crown of gold upna Oie
raffia, and covered it with the clonk which lie lilmscR was wont TO wtar, won¬
dering Unit a king oT HUCrb great uueilc, and endowed with such tiobCB. should
l AT(r been buried in no snore costly fashion than if he bud lujen unc of the
popnlacs-

Now without attempting to form a cflnneckfd narrative from the
abovewoerpU—tbefifilklitfeatures of which are, however, unmistakable
- let us see what point* there are in them. In which the tomb
fr^-nt° C that T have diwrftafl at Mnrghab either oarrmptmAa with,
bSanwr or difTiirs from, tbe original Tomb of Gyms. T will fir*t note
the points nf rt^mblauce or identity : (1) The Tomb of CjfTM stiwad in
au enoUi^nmfir^r^A.^), within which wns also a ^niall building for the
aceoTiimin Intioin of the guardians- The tomb at M urghnbj hk l have shown,
wiut Httm umded on throa aides by a inverod colonnade, that may well have
contained mth a building. (2) The Tomb of Cyrus warn not large. and
cocisigtcd of two j.iorta, an upper and n lower ; the lower matidve and
rating upon a &piaml stone Urnc, the upper resembling a house (oJjo^a)
roofed over* and containing the coffin. To this there was tm Amfimnt
or ascent. Here the corresponct^ieo is minute and E-x^ct, the d intend ms
of thebose, which I Imve previously given rts 47 ft, by 43 ft 3 mowing
little short of a apiare, although the Greek wtmlfl employ*! (rrrpdwtSwttnd

Hiyn >v r>?)imply a qund rangtilar shape rather than, one necessarily square,
(3) The Tomb of Gyrus had a cotinpianoiuly small and narrow entnuusj, a
further point of absolute corn^pnidence. ( i) Finally, GneincritiiA, *hc
probably saw it (and I am surprised that this statement, which appear*
to me of considerable importance, has been -so little noticed), r ays that
the Tomb of Cyrus was. in km storey* or tiorn. Ni>w r however mi-
trustworthy Onesicritns may have been, this is the kind of statement
that he could hardly have invented for no purpose. The discrepancy
between his figure of ten, and the seven terraces (or eight, including the
sepulchre) of the tomb at Murghah in w slight as to count for nothing
compared with tbn start ling resemblanca of the two fiibfics in this
essential detail of external structure* 1

1 The pyramidal* or terraced, form of structure ha*. as I hfltf been

regarded by s*critics as a reminder of Kcypt: whilst most writer* Icive
La the futbldl tomb a legacy from the Greek an of Ion in. It should not, humwer,
bo fcnicnen that the elevation of Buildings on m*vcn terrace# was a familiur feature
of QttfildtgO* Aisjriiiii ftrotaUMiuitt—tk number Povea haring a plailcilncj rofirtticc
- find there ia in Hsiodotu- (lib. L I HI) AdewriptEub of the seven-staged Templeof
Hoi at Baby leu, which Bttggcat* a curious fnraUcl: 1 Upon th* last lower Ktamte
n jrpadoili fthrlne, in which Ss a large coach with rfdb CO¥CxiiigF r *ml by it a golden
table/ Furthermore, a pedinrented strnrime, so far front being itGCC»rarily of
tiiwk OTigia t atrendy exlut* on a ba*-rebel cn lhe Khcmuhad palace nf Sarg&ia
(Uottiin p 5 HIV

FJIOM ISFAHAN TO B1UHAZ

Oil the other hand* the opponents of the thi'ory of jcfoatiftcation
advnnen the following nrguiuents,. to which I will append such replies os
Poin,^ nl »p|«ar to be Irfstb mwonAhje and fuLoqunte, (1) The Tomb

ilsjlt-niiim of CvTUH WI13 ^UTIUUndil] by glinl^IJS and 5! R[ld gnus,

and wiie overshadowed with the foliage of trees* whitreas there Lg. now
no sign at Murghab of any of these, l really caimot think that tin's
argument is of the slightest value, looking 10 the prodigious change in
the face of rv country that is ejected in a single century,, let alone
H,!30O years. L T pc ,n this hypothesis scarcely il single site in Persia
could now be identified with its fhmrtmtirr in ancient days. There I 3
nbunflELfl^ of writer in the valley of Murgliiib, for the river runs at no
distance j and the little sepulchre and its Hiimnmding colonnade may
well have stood in a copse of frees. Moreover, the modi^t height of the
exinting building,, over which a sylvan canopy might u&uiiy have been
fornml* itself indirectly corroborates ilm .L-sirtioii of stndav. (2) M,
DJcuLevFoy sayK that a Greek would never have compared the edithv nt
Murghnb to u ^ijuare tower. Hera I have to complain of tli««nmi-rariH
lation or Tninr epi*i»setitation of the originals, of which tin critic has been
so fragrantly and frequently guilty m 31. Dieulafoy The answer in
■ ury simple. None of the Greeks did so compare it, Strabo billed it a
* wor(?iVy°f) ft term fivqtwntly applied in later Greek to isolated
buildings—lmt Qflfrejrsaid that It wo* H^iiarc. Arrian added that it
reared is|wii a st|ei»red hose, which 1 have shown to he trueJ (3) M.
Dicukifoy argues that the tomb chamber ar Murghab is too -analI to
have contained the objects before einimerut^i to which he gratuitously
at|d.% wi thout the slightest excuse, h une rtuge dortepropru k ac laver on
it K« Lftigiter.' 1 This is largely a matter of opinion. I gather myself
from the passage* Iwfare citi^d that the content* of the mausoleum of
Cyme ware a decorated couch upon which the coffin w .ax Lild, and a table
covered with cupa, ornament#, and aims* For these there appears to
me to have been ample mom. (4) M. Diculafoy, perpetrating a still
further enormity, says Unit in the tomb at Murghab there ia no truce
of an inner leading down to the chamber of the guards.

Neither, I reply* was there in the Tomb of Cyrus, The staircase is an
unpardonable figment of M. Dieulnfoys own imagination^ (ft) There

1 Kiri worsla are S brlp ^ rir taper t4 ndt-v Ai'ftp Tf^u^ f§

tfjfTfUBi Tff^UJTpjf fttl.

1 This ie a second mh*ftnfflH». M. DfanUfoy Inmirliite* dAh in Its
primal? meaning uf A Wlblnp-tnb, ipimrlog 1 thnl Arrian £* applying | n |pi
ftrccnffilTy meaning of A coffin, to I ho r*OopUie]i? that held the betdy of Vym*.
Thu u clear cnrjn^h from ATrian^ own words : $ fwAm f T & <r±pa. faS i&pmt

* To make this point clear. Jet me elm the worris both of M. Uleulnfoy and of
ihdm, The former snp(Oif Anti^tuf dt fri JVrW. p. 2d): 'On ^mnnmiptiit

PERSIA

is no tm« on the walls at Mtirghab of the Persian or Grwk npataphfi
of Cyrus, These, however, may very conceivftbly have been Inscribed
on tablets affixed to the wait, or in *om» position since destroyed.'
So mtiidi for the arguments pft> and ra». saggosirtl by the descriptions
of tiie original and the appearance of the actual tomb—an ordeal from
which it cannot, I think, be doubted that the theory which I imve
defended emerges with superior laurels. I should add that, of the
twn most formidable opponents of this hypothesis, Professor Oppert,
attaching a not wholly improper or irrational weight to tradition, which,
as I have shown, ascribes the tomb at Murghnb to a wonmn, believes
it to have 1 h»i» that of Casanrtdane, the wife of Cyras,* while SI.
Dieiilafoy prefers Man daw, his mother.* There ib, of course, not a
tittle of positive evidence in support of either ; and why M- Db-uhifoy,
admitting that this is the Pasorgndic of Cyrus, and locating here the
tomb Imth of liis father and of his mother, should ai the same time
place the conqueror's own tomb in some other place, locality unknown,
it pusses my wits b> determine.

Even so. however, the matter h far from haring been determined ;
for there arises the question whether the ancient Psaargsd®, the royal

ail mijt™ (Tun rncnUcr intsricur arec la chambre oft eu tcwiieeit It* pi#rei
i In joinfcdu momin cni , 1 iVh.rt Arrian wrote *i„ iba if trrii nil

H irtftUm ri Jwl rir t^sf veil Meyvif vowurtnv,

wools which I lirtve alrttirlj literally rendered hi IIIJ- translation. Would it is;
believed that, on iho tbnsliaia of thaw acliiiscinvuts, JI- Dfaulafoj Ihiu ad-
dnss^* hb Itadem: ' JVngagir lw pentomiM qui voudnrient oonsulter Pimbon on
Arrieli A avoir reconr- an Kite greo, lea mots loehniqUr* cmiil giufTtUracot tun]

K rU1 , ilmt ffibcve lLl^ dimr of the tomb nt Mntghnb the ncuutl bole- b$

whlctL riuch a labbt may l*re beta uffixed ara mill vjsthle {i'rnepnlu, Jtfnrr-

5 Oppert, iptleed, goes further, and finds in the gabled roor nr [rrefirctgiihle
anjimurat In favour of ft feminine connection: -]nc>mte*feM«ieilt ce lorabttiu
est celDi d'00« femrm-, fiihsi qne le pmave sun toll il bit dan*. Co WMttre din-
tinctif da* sfpnlere* b'mitik- » retrain c flt'jil duns It* ttivenux lAtllfa dans le roc
& rirnfilirPr: it remume done AHOC haute fttrtiquM. Ce n c*1 r ( uc pur I'oobli do
tcutes Ib* possibility* arebtologlqtseji et pfopraphlqau* qo'en a Sdentifif le tomheau
do Mosmhah htcc le lombcnu do Cyrus ‘ (Ar Peupl* rt le /siyw fa -tfrfa,

110 ; cf. JJWi of tht l’o>(. toI. til, p, »0). this is very tall mlh; hut the
J t r _ J .,bout the tomb# St 1‘enepolto, upon which the reasoning w*ts, is pure

jgyjP jpffEnnSi

■ If n l&Tlv is to bfl mtttaftf why 150* SLlcLb, tht mllcg'Hl Kfijpttmq. r|Uecn of
CvTUf-, Wote m^litkmwlt There is) iior# le bo mU\ In favour of ini t^ptlnn
timn of a Persian tewlo i or the ^puichiT, Inrk^rJ. it inch tmermow

^i^tit ift to be ntmchwl to ibe ttiiilithuml mMooSatiniL of ill.- Gnhr wilh n
wuuijunp we Ely llx aA Ihfl mummy of Nitells mny baro Ucci

there jtferag wiih tiuit of C yw Bui (hui, 1 itiinks Ln treating tmiHtfan too
porEimsly.

rami ISFAHAN TO SHIRAZ

city of the Achauminians, m which it is beyond doubt that the toinb
of Cyrus was witmvtoci, 3 can bis identified with the ruins which 1 have
|di- ntity -nl ini ho valley of the Folvnr. Again let me stale the

r*m.rg*dm jtrQti and rwa ^’ (1) Anns i i3mes tells us that the city of
PjLHEirgndnf was built by Cyrus on the site of his fatuous victory over
Airtyages the ill ode, and Strabo that this city contained both Ids
palace and his tomb. 3 Now we Iuij»|^ei to have an account of tide
battle in the fragments of Nicolnaa of DiiMjiNi'yj^. a contemporary and
friend of Herod the <Ireat h who composed a Universal History in 144
books, of which somo excerpts have been preserved by Photius,
Patriarch of Constantinople. 1 His narrative,, which Ls here voiy
eiivuniJitantml, can scarcely leave a doubt that ii was in the valley of
thf PoKur, L-oininnnding the sole entrance from Hie north into Fain
{Aatyagcfl was mtmhifig from Media and Erl hi tana), that the decisive
con diet was waged, Cyras and the Persians having naturally selected
the lijmI advantageous field of coin but. Moreover, Nicolaus connects the
mum PfiAargftdn* with this site, describing it us tu hfnftJrmTor *.u*g P the
very lofty mountain, overlooking the plain, to which Cyrus sent the
women and children for safety during the battle. Finally, we have
already^ seen on this very plain the remains of buildings inscribed with
the name nod titles of Cyrus, and one or more of which am certainly
p»lf u» of the Adneoienian type ; whilst m another edifice L have shown
what certainly bear* an extraordinary likeness to the authentic descrip¬
tions of liLh tomb. (2) Ktrnl» says of the river at PaKargadee : 'There
is the river Kurm lowing through Persia which is called Koile, round
Pasargnilu 1 , of which the king changed the name, calling it. Kuros,
insterwl of Agradate*/'- Now this is not strictly correct; for the river
at Murglmb h the Poivar (or Modus of the unrifittta, also njentiomd by
Strabo) ] while the Kuros or Kur is another name for the Ara**^ or

1 Thl* IWigruta wm- ELModuicnt with many rkjJfgiflim wbsorvjincc* of the
AcUwajpciim mmtafchs. Here they wnsra ooiuectaiccj hy the llagi, and ihrented
With i be nab* of Cym*. Hera tltry partook of the L-acral Kwr^rt (Plutarch’*
Arfti*rrm% and nunlo many offering, CfTM. tin younger, 1 he

pthrriaage m Fma&Am nr? 3*&s ifuin ncven thnes ckeanphnit, Cyny*. viLI.).
Daring *H3n uF rnarie the same Journey (Cihion JVrf 1+ cap.

1 TIm? chief ftflv.xsUf-* of the identifimi km have bwin Hcjinelb bmmeaf* II cen* n.

Me fund. Tycbsea, C, Hitter. Spiegel Kte|wri, 1L:. wiimew* Wviikt,

Je^eL In chief opponent im- Ho«rk, 1 ->fr^ ito*i*rrt Nntur JjWr.urrsf.*, p r 5 fi ;
V. I-JU'- m, Encprt, <£ Krteh r t iwrtifxT* mb tit Fin'nrcnibi ; J. Oppert* the worfci
nbnvm|U’j(cd and Jmtrn*r.lde to ^fr VnL ill )fi 7 ^ 3 PrcT. A. 31 . Sayce,

Itrirwaica, Oth edit. rtr* f-f, <Vni? ; M. Dicaliifov, h* io

/Vru?. pan L

1 it. 1001

/ p^-^rajTrjfa, otlit. IIuIIlt, vol. fil. p» 101.. The pd.iraijresi nIV collected and eh-
eiracted in tv footnuEr by M. Dlealafny. * jy m

PERSIA

Bu Kid - A inir, aft er t\ 1e Pol va r has joii led It in the p!a. i i l of Mervd :isli l
in front of Peraepuli*. I tHiELk„ however, it will foe ween that this
mistake is in itself corroborative of oar theory, huts much as Bimbo
hap merely transferred to an upper brunch of the river the name which
the whole of it beam lower down ;; a mistake which is also found in
later writers, who have compounded the kur ah with the Pnr ab,
which is the old Persian name for the Polvitr, Moreover, Strabo's
^liissiEiccLtioa of file river* Central and Hontliem Person In goo-
graphical -«^|Lienee, as the ChoBfipen, Copmtea, Phsiiigm, Kuroo,
Araxes and Modus. mutes it clear that the Kurus is to be sought in
this neighbourhood., and nut, uh the hostile school would hare us believe,
in the south-east, near Dirnibjird. (3) There is, in the descriptions of
both Strabo and Arrian, evt?ry uidieat inn that Peiwepolisand Fa^ii-garhe
were iittiated at do ^neat distance from eneh other. Arrian relates
that Alexander (In 331 u.O.J, marching from Susa and the Ps&jtigrift
(Karan} through the territory of the Uxn p fonghi find won a great
battle, aitd then advanced In hot liasto to PfLsargachc, where he seized
the treasure of Cyrus, eon tinning from thvueo to PcrsepoUs. Thin
exactly tallies with the situation* of Murgbab and Fersepohs. St mho
says h if Alexander lhat, after burning the palace at PempoliB, cir' fe
[[ctiTdL.jya^i'i rjxc, ' then he came to PaBnrgudte/ Again Arrian, describ¬
ing hhs return uiaruii from India, 334 Rtt, depict** Mm :l,i leaving
llcphiestiitti ami the bulk of fus army to march along t\m coast from
Carmania, while lie himself, w ith a detachment of light-armed troops
i ounc to the borders of Persia and so to Pnwg&iliV and thence to
Pcraepolib, t lie two names being bracketed in the same sentence ai
jc nwrapyA&vt re tvA cs n^treiruAiir ii^wKrro), an almost certain index of
proximity.

Il being clear, theivfon 1 * fco my mind that In the % alley of the Pol tar
was fought the battle that made Cyrus the muster of Perns, and it
being certain that In that valley he I milt a roy.d city nnd palace, and
called it P:L.%argnthv k when? lie was ultimately burial, and i\mi name
having also been shown to Im? already connected with the Ix-alifcy, and
tlic remains of a palace indubitably erected bv Cyrus, because inaoribed
with his own uamo, having ako Ikjkfii shown to exist there, os well as
a tomb answering to bis sepulchre, i am brought to the conclusion that
the ruins of Margin*h an? the very Fa^fgadic which Cyrus built, anil
that the Tomb of the Moi her of BoLomcm in the very raidin' whem
his body lay.

WhaL, however* ;i iv the cotrater-proportions that liave influenced
the vote of tbr- learned author hies Iw fore mentioned! They are of a
two-fold source, being derived partly fiom discrepancies In the daiydcal
w riters, portly from the evidence of the cuneiform inscription at Bisatgn.

FHOM ISFAHAN TV eiURAZ

Let me state In i tli. (1) Flirty soy* I bit Pasarguda- was east of
PerEcpolbi (Imde ad urienteiii Magi obtinent Fassagardos iMiatellumh
Hwtija who*™ Murghab j* north-east This, I tbinfc, is hyper-
oritkiflWu (.2) The okiijb writer, describing the naval uruiso of
Neurehim along the shore of the Persian ( Milf 3 spraikiL of tho ■ river
SitiogugHf^ by 'a 1 1 n.l 1 Pnsurgudjv is reached by Ijoai oh the seventh day/ 1
Thi-s of coursi 1 am in nu wise 1 jv rewiicilod vvitL. the K.ur or the Pol v nr*
It is the Nitiilcuh of Am on (/rtn/icc^ trap. D'i) p and i Sit^ modem Kara
Agbiclip one brunch of which riseti south of Darabjird* where* a* l Khali
presently show* it is prubaMt that there wa_s either another iV^rgiidw,
or a city of very similar name. (3) Ptolemy (whp| however! did not
write till ihe seuond eeatory a.o,) in giving the latitudes m id Longitudes
of PereopoLis and Fasnrgsche fc represents the latter an n good deal to the
south-cost* and not to the north-rust, of the former. One answer to
this might he that Ptolemy in his Persian tables made many egregious
mis takes, al though t ns I shall show, 1 think u 'juste possible tlmi in thin
ease lie was referring to another city of a similar nai»e t further to the
south-east.* (4) Itk argued that Alexander, in mnrchhginto Fatsfroiis
Cftmumia (Kerman), would pralmbly have adopted thfl ordinary caravan
truck from tlse south, in which ea.se he would have reached Perscpolia
Iwfore Murghub, instead of in the invert order. But the very fact that
he only took a small detachment of his lightest, troops on this expedition
seems to imply that he went by n less ordinary and* possibly p by- &
desert route. (5) Finally* wo come to the argument from the cuneiform
huu riptkm of BisHuu, which is of more weight)' calibre. There we
read of Piriyauwadn or Fisyaehudn, a name bearing n strong verbal
resemblance to Pas&rgAdiv, The tirst peeudc^merdiB, Uomtites. we
are told p rose here, Hither tho eeeoml pseudo Snjvrdia, Yeisdates, fled
after a defeat at Rnkhu, 1 From that place (i,e. Pisyachaela) with an
army he came buck* arraying bettle !>efnre Artaharde*- Tin? mountains
tunned Piirgrt* there they fought/ Thera, too r the pretender wan taken
prisoner ami put to death* In another paragraph it is mentioned that
he bad sent hia troops to Arachtitb— i.e. ‘Western Afghanistan. Upon
tbc&o details Professor Oppcti grounds a minute .scheme i>f identification,
Hakim, according to Mm, being the Pamrrachn of Ptolemy, on the silo
of tlio modern [''iuift or Fiisa ; Parga being the itiodom Forg t and
Fiayachadm, or Pkwgadfi*, being tho modern D?tnibjird p or rather a
ruined enclosure known fl-h tho Kaleh- 1 -.Darah, four mika fouth-wetffc
of that Iowil 3 llen^ he saya, was the royal city of Ujnia and the

1 m Vut, %i. «£.

3 6'rtij. vt. 4. I el the liefit nionEL>cH[it moreover* [he name ia writ Eon, nut
PiLFaigndj(i t hut Pamrmefr u.

1 l m&j jHilrit cm {aecvptiiijj Sir 11. tEawliubanV tmnjihLlian af tha tascrini Ltm
a* correct) that Profe^or Oppert has stmiunL I he Ei'il in wimt niipears lu be mu

PKIJHIA

AdiJHciitiniiulJt hero Cyrus w:us buried, and here must he sought bis
tomk 1

Now the negative rirLpiEiienty igNQit Darabjird Itring the rite of
the city tutd tomb of Cyrus rh?, I think h overpowering, The plain
D ! irl roBIld DnmTjjird nan n ot well have been the kit*' t*f the battle
between him a nil A^tyageA Thera in iu> wfnjktrarav opoc
here at all. Neither is there any river Kuma- Nor duos die phiee
eon •• j<iiul with the indications of tin.' Gnek q|» JjLtiii writers whom 1
have quoted, with the osueption of the latest in date, Ptolemy r More¬
over, it il at such it distance from Ferscpolijs (190 mites) as to render it
highly improbably that the two names would have been constantly

ttliwnrmnlJibla manner in enter to raft Id- au^Qlcptkai*. Ho say* (Inurn, A tint.,
voh adx. iS 7 if) i hat 4 * toning from Plajiichiifa Vtiwljitw Foupht n -Mdoml hunk-
hi Farmprn (F<ufg) + whence hf* iHMitfin troop# foil hack upon Amobotm In the
extreme east.’ tha inscription mij» nothing of the kind. On the cantniTT* It says
shat ho fiocA to Pfuga, whereashad Patgzk been KorjT. he wouldhaveretpiLrod
10 go on. Nor is the expedition to Amchoria tn the inscription ju*t iiirihlj re¬
presented ax a n-rmit of bcatcu t roojiii from Furg. Thu context nhowi ihnr it wa*
on independent military venture,

1 Upper! ijerivIS the mime I'isvacEmda from ji&k, spring*, end AAm'A, valley —
i.o-the valley of spring*. Bui thU U purely conjectural The old explanation
of P^ujgnrlHT, or fa- it was written by Q, Gurtiii^ w.u- given by

Stephen of Hyxantfiim, quoting Anaxlmem ^ tut ihu eucampenent of the Portion*.
(Compare I-a^-gEnh Ihim-jlnl etc.) Ojipert t having th u-. idt-iitflicd
with Darabjinl bn- rIeo to di*pcM of t lie Timmins nf the city built hv Ovtcls in
the valley of the Falter, ThS^bo doc* by identifying the latter with Marrhlffitiq,
tilted by Ptolemy (Arm/. riii. 21* 1-t'J ns one of tilt four principal .if P* rrf n-

tho geogra|4^o*l portion* nf the two place- corresponding eery fniriy. Or.
Andrea* Holif* the difficiUj bj »ii|pDdD| Uel the Cjron * if Murghnh is I'jrtu,
brother nf XufXe-,and Ylraroy of Egypt, whpwiix calledAchttnn nEdfcsbyCt^fas*
jsmL whtfrC body wit^ brought after death to Pcndft to to burk'd i Unn-. To which
the answer is tim: Hit- t'yra^ could never Siavu to*n duveritod in th* m^rlptlnn*
iL-* KbSypthij^ or king, nn obJetnEan which applied eqmdJy tt> t]jr >ui Lnn of
the younger Cyrus. 8ayr:e is hudly to Ik? congratahitted upori Vi* ±UiV rueqt tit
the euumj (JSbeyd. "The tomb at Uurghab earnini be 3 hat of Cyrtu%

as is often safipfe'cA Mur^hcdi. like 1'orficpolix, E^ on the Ajusch, w-bi]e Parargad*
where Cynu was bund, wiwoij the Cytu* (Kur). Tim eraitiift™ iiMeripEion at
Mnighab polnta to a iwrEwl fnbrtqUKnfc lo thu to»p|p of Ditrinv,, as nloea nlsa
tbe Egyptian hnad-dn-^ of Ihu figure Wlow tt* Now H tin It^ixiEm Klie ntwr.f a
neither Muighab nof Fmepdlb are qn tin?- Aroxtii Ot Etrr. If the fortner had
been, the wue would he billed at onee Agalrwt Professor titjt*. Both are on the
^ledu^ or Polmr, jilt hough lower down the river iJ ended the Eitr H after Joining
tlic Kiungrux. Nor U the eunrifurrn diarueler of Mntphiib of irijc dtile; fur
Opfiert bllxtKlC is eenrtmltusd in udmit ttmt " the climm^ter nf the seulptUWu nt
Slo^hab Lm more ancient than that of any other Fenln ant3quillE»; N wliElsi the
Egypr ion tbairurCDf of the hend-itress of Cj™ may bo explained by the theory*
previously T,ugg«t«|, that the figure w,i^ after bis death and duLfcittaii

eEtlkCr hy Mtelli or by one of bis successor*.

FROM ISFAHAN TO gHLELVZ

bracketed ns tho? were. Furthermore, we know from the inscriptions
on Babylonian cylinders that Cyrus wuh origqnally king -nf Auyui ■
iind if Anviii, ns append probable, was identical with the west part of
modern Persia, jw-rJirij^ with £tiwmim, it [a unlikely tlmt he would 1^
found fighting Astynges and founding a royal city in the distant
cjiHt, Above nil, them is not afe iir near DarahjmJ the smallest Vestige
of palace or tomb of Cyrna, not a single cuneiform inscription, nor,
any remains tlmt can conceivably bo regarded hr Acbn'memit
with the possible exception of a species of rampart in the middle
of which rises u rugged rock! identified by tradition with the citadel
of Da mb or Dados, 1 generally supposed to Inj the Darius Not Lea of
the Greeks, who reigned 423 e,c + It is difficult to believe, in n country
where some relies, at U>aat p Imve been found of nearly all the great eon-
H’lnpomir cities, that Pnsargndir, had it been here, could Lave bt(D so
completely blotted out from the face of the earth.

1 mo disposed myself to think that the name Fasnrgudn^ which, ns
we know from Herodotus, was that of the royal tril»e of Persin, may

c-LHijrluftkjj ^ trvvw be, ' li JP VBT1 t0 nit>re *b™ uoc nml may thus veiy
nnturully have confused the Greek and Latin writers, who were
compiling their work* about countrieswhich they Imd never themselves
seen front the testimony of curlier writers, whose accounts they could
not if k variably reconcUe, and who thus M the; in astray * We have
already seen that the title of Prvsargadte was applied to a lofty
mountidn in one locality (which I have identified with the valley l-i the
Polvar) ; whilst in another passage of Ptolemy we find a second place
of the same name in Komi ml I even think it likely* for reasons
that will be stated in the nest chapter, that Fns&rgadje may have lm
the PemiiLu title of Pcrsepolis Itself. It ts possible, therefore, that there
may also have been a Fosargada-or Fauirrucho in south-east Ears,, at or
near Dnmbjtrd or Fnso, to which the few allusions in the uluvdcal
writers which postulate such a situation may have referred. But that

1 OumIcw* whu visual it in tSI I. calK^d it Kntch-i-1Jehnvoh (prcbEtblj a mit*
utiiStrutaminig of Pnmjft L hJ f Jrrrnr^ Veil. ii. p. I FT* Keith Ahhcn to 1850 do-
fOftbed it a& a mud rampart, thirty la forty feet high, numiundlng an Rotated
rock at n dblanre of 800 yard* (JWjmF j/ tftr ft ft, S, y roL iivii. p. 380),
FEandm alad CiHla vUHed it in Iflf 3, and fuive It]c3tadral n proand plan and illll*-
tmtiya En thirtr beautiful eoitvetlnn of phtos voL E. pinto 31. J, II. Fmra, the
vbitnr, En 18€4,fiil(f thal the 1 Fmyini raiwistod of iralU nf clay*twenty feet
hi*fh r with a dElch forty fceE hrcvid, »u iron ruling two huaIL rocky llfitu, the higher
flf which U U30 foet. tin added: 1 After ftEmrching Elm whole place and inapt
carefnlljF mamlalng the racks all about, not the Iliglr^t irate of El iton*lnaM:.n f H
handtwqrfc could be feu mi, nail lUn reek* ^hew nop%n of over having been touch mS.
The pliu® did nut give (lie idea of nuy great ntiti^utij. It dipuhtles^ dicing-* io
the tarniEftn jvrirtd. and net to I bo Ac Lac moo Ian, oh we vunniwl And hoped."

(of ft. ft. H„ voi, t part li I.)

PERSIA

! "I

the Posargatbe of Cynxa r in life siiicl ill dcath T was the city whose frag-
meiLtury mine I have described in the valley of the Palvar* 1 aw
inclined strongly to believe ; and therefore it is that in rare of the
recent attacks that have been made iij*m It l^y mni of suleoce, E have
ventured to refurbish the armoury of its defence . 1

Soon after leaving the MabjiEl-i-MadiiVr-i-Siileiiiiuri, the wall*
of which gleam like a white patch on the sombre landscape, we
. , bhl farewell to the plain of Murghab, and enter n lofty

range of mountains by a fine gorge, along the base of
which rushes the river Pdvuiv When the water Is Jow T
the bid of the stream* or its bunks, provide » roailvvay: far seasons
when the channel i^ full, a pnLh> eddied Smigbur, hats been hewn
many centuries ago, for a distance of over fifty yards in the
aide of the lofty limestone clitf . 3 Twice this dark mviue expands
into open valleys, and twice again contracts into narrow defiles,
admitting little beyond the tiack and tike noisy river. So we
continue for several ?nilcs t until, at the far end of om of ths
valley-windings w r espy the miserable post-hemse and iitipping
camvnnserai of Kuwamubud. This place takes it* name from
its founder, the thy I Kawam, who was minister Lit Mhiruz fifty
years ago* Turning to the taft, and pursuing the same ravine,
I came, after thirty-five minutes .-harp riding to the village and
Telegraph-station of Si vend. The village, which is said to be
inhabited by Lots, is built in ascending tiers on the mountain
side, while the valley bottom is thickly planted with Tine?, From
here the track continues in a soiitk-eusterly direction, skirting
the river, and arrives at the Lur village of Saidnn, to which point
there is also a shorter track from Murghab than that followed
by the posted and telegraph route, running over the hilts rut Katnin,
An abrupt turn i<* the right, or west, then brings its into a valley,
bordered en either aide by mountains and cat up by water*
courses and irrigation channels, which, in the darkness, the sun

1 Since wirttitm the above Itmglby—btu not, I hope, gratae oas—argument, 1
tuacieen ihu nvw toiuidt of MH. Parrot and Chfp£«t' magnificent work; antItled
ftMtir# da i'Ari dan* rAaitfvii^ lomo t„ /V™ (ISSO); ami J am delighted to
Sail thalt Hmftlaf bis own duqauton U> ilia Mantlly aF tomb, wUhoiil fttn-
borklnfc apon tbelw^ar <in*?t|nn of Fiuuupul^ M, Fflrrot lin* arrived by argument*
very itsrflAr to my own at pmciwly ibo comdudinn: dtl^ugh ba hfi*

hard] j fenUral the full mmstm of M. Di«aEafoy K s pcocatJiOoe*. aad kits
hb irtontifscalkm upon ,*trruqtu?aJ p mth-T I ban topngrophiaak WWttblMWf.

1 Vide S[dw t voL li, pi* 127-

FltOBl ISFAHAN TO BttIKAZ

Laying set, mode riding anything but easy mid plctusunt, and *
caused my Ferrian suTYfiut to describe two complete somersault*
over the bead of bis tired mid stumbling steed As we ride
down this valley, wo are approaching scenes of historic greatnes*,
and on the morrow there lie* before m the exciting prospect of
a first day amid the rained palaces ami indestructible tombs of
Penrifl'A greatest ■sovereign*. At the end of the cliff wall that
Imrders the Valley on the right, or north, are hewn in the face
of the rook the sepulchres of Darius and Ids fellow kings, and the
pompous bas-reliefs of Sbapur* At the base of tlm hills on the
left lie the vanishing ruins of Isfcnktir, the capital of Darin#,
Round the comer of these same hit Is, but fronting in a westerly
direction the wide plain of Atervdaahfr, into which the volley wo
linve been descending Ltfre opens, is built out from tin? mountain
side the groat platform that sustains the columns of Pcrsepolia
and the shattered halls of Darius and of Xerxes. These throe
sites of ancient fame will be described and examined in the
succeeding chapter, which 1 shall specially devote to a subject
that appertain* to ui-difcoIogT rather than to trnvoL Here 1 shall
proceed with the narrative of my journey. The Khiptir-khniuh,
which the visitor mat is hi* head-quarter# while he inspects the
iiiotui mentis of the AnliEem£tnidfi t in. that of Pumh, situated at
the western extremity of the valley of the Polvnr, which flow* in &
deep gully just below and almost on the site of the ancient
Istakhr* Here he is within easy distance of nil the ruins; and
if the blackened walls, the smoky tire-place, the mud flooring,
and the ern^y, hingsJps& door of the l*tfo*4chanfih of the post-house
at Fn^eh do not constitute an appetising domicile, at least the
wayfarer can reflect, with a jinsifive gush of delight, that this
is the lost dt^^ttr^ihaneh in which he will 1 m* called upon to spend
the night in Persia,

TLe plain of Mervdasht. over which the momirchs of the Modes
and Perainns looked out M they sat in stntv In their marble halls,
is a Hat expanse, about fifteen miles in width from north to south.
The BtiruF while it* southeasterly extension in said to Htroteh for
Am * f forty miles* Kawit# and irrigation ditches, dug from
the river, intersect it in every dim:I ion, and have always rendered
it a fertile spot; though the decline of modern Persia could
not be more pertinently illustrated t linn by the fact that, whereas
in Le Brua’s day, not two centuries ago, it contained over eight

I'KIIMA

handled villages, this total hue now dwindled to fifty ; while

so inadequate is the control of the water-supply, that the plain
often lies half under water, and in converted into stagnant pools
and swam pa. As i left Pereepolia, after completing my study
of its ruin*, I was obliged to strike back in « north-westerly
direction, in order to escape this network of water} 1 trenches,
Passing the village of Kuskk, 1 then kept straight forward in
a south-westerly line, towards the Pul-I-Khan, » very lofty

bridge, with two main arches of irregular sine and shape, which

crosH-s the river Knr (the Attltt of the ancients) a little kiow

its confluence with the l’olvnr. 1 The conjoint stream formed,
n deep, with' pool below the bridge, mid there was more water
in it than in any river that 1 had yet seen in Persia. From
the fact that eight miles further down, this river Is crossed by
n great dam, n]K>n which stands n bridge of thirteen arehea,
120 yards in length, the work of an enlightened ruler of the
Al-i-Bnyah or Oilemi dynasty, known as the Asad-ed-Uowlch, in
about P7U A.o., its lower course has received the same of the
Bund-Amir* (lit. dyke of the Amir), or Bendemcer of Moore,
whose rhapsodical description i>1 its charms E shall allow myself,
nlmust atom' among modern writers on Persia, the luxury 1 of not
quoting.

From here the iwl continues towards the mountains tlini
fringe tiir plain of Memhusht on the south-west side, and,
AppH»ch entering a deep bay in these, proceed* for a distance of
feSliiiw gojuf. miles over an expanse that, is occupied, in the
rainv season, bv ti marsh, across which the track is carried Tor over

1 llii^hrr itp ibo Knr p whcmi nmn Kiairt 1*tliftChii*bi«ishd-J>unlflneK known
rocwadTcly #u* lb* A-napas oud Ksiudimi. E%ht fiuMtki above the PulUKhim
il bihtiuond by tht Bnnd-L^lwSiL*o called from the n%nlng h, who 1 b IS90
spoiled aptrEctLTft^ttrigSmUj trusted by iht Ae h a mcn Ua kb*"*, aitf frKjLH!ELt]y
wince- Tilt? Pol V nr, wWf course 1 htiVi 5 fallow*^ am I which Hows in
abcivi* tho Pul-i-Khrvo, in the M^liV oF ib.o ururHTiIin* iilul nhi* pjuamb ur Funufc of
fFT^nplirr^. Aftrr the OOflUattKK- thfl riv^r U rsJlwl khe Ktir. Tvo^lWMl
luu-fF down it. i ht. 1 cukibnlod dam of A *»dcd- Duwltah, fnm which tliv rtwnr di>
ri™ il - si Ho in ihoso \uwvt Ruks of Ibintb A mir, Kivr nions damn obstnint |t*
enure and dhtri '#• vraten, brfon- ih*i n-ftlfllnder finally falls into iba ^reat Sill
iiiLuj of BokbU^JUI (called by clio furtive* Bidupn^or Niri?. Jfufr 1 KoI-l-h on
the Kur i[Lii*r ' bj A. IL .‘'johiudler in Fnmdi ^i of tftr K. fr. twL iiii. p, 2fl7
£18110-

* Thc dun wan ridltcd and described hy J. P r ModsT (1811)* Swvtui Jovriury t
p r 73 3 Sir W. OiiHflcj (1811)* T^rnnUt voL II. j*. 1W-5 | C. J, Eloh (), Jb^rtw^
fo rtrzejwtiM, p, UAL

rttSfl-MLIJUfC MflUU KlilElA St

FROM ISFAITAN TO SHIRAZ BS

ft wilt, upon a narrow mul irregular cause way. Turning ft sharp
corner tn the left, we present^ Urive ;it Hit - village of Zpigbon,
famous for its muleteers, built at the base nf n rocky chain. From
si distance of about three miles from Zerglum, to tin- very Outakirta
of Shiraz—for this ift the last stage that separates ns from the
capital of Fare—the postnad in one of the stoniest and most dis¬
agreeable ill Persia. Its course lies over a succession of mountain
ridges, in whose valleys and undulations, and over whose peaks
and cresis, it is conducted in a line that m many places resembles
a tomat-bed rotlier than a made road. The ground is completely
covered with 1-rose stones and boulders, from tin? size or an orange
to the dimensions of a fool ball; and riding over these, particularly
at any pace, is one of the most painful of haman experiences.
Rather more thnn luilf-way in a naked mountain-plain, at a spot
called Bnjgah, or Place of the 'Polls, from the fact that there was
formerly a station here of ruMar#, or toll-gatherers upon the
kifiiaJui or caravan*. is a large, forlorn-looking caravanserai (men¬
tioned by Thftreaot in IMG) with a tank of water in front. It is
after crossing the siilksequent ridge of the Kllll-i-Banni thiit wo
notice, by the road side, a tiny channel filled with running water
that acoumpanics us Ibr some distance on our march, Leal non®
should gue.? it, let me say that this slender rivulet is no lens a
stream than the Ruknnbad, which, rising in tin hills twelve miles
away, races gaily down to Shinns, and was celebrated by the
patriotic Hftts?! in terms that would lead otic to expect wine less
msignirtcant chmme)-

U was with HD slight relief that, two and itex'-qimrter hours
a^.r living Zetglnin, and whilf difSCflndiiig tlu 1 ultima Ci. 1 ridge £jf
^ . ihi^ Si^mingly interminable chain, I caught sights in tht 1

AHniii] op’iilng of a moDiitmn pa.~s of a £^rt fc af idUlster of sulenoii
XkY * X cjptw*#, and, below, the shimmer of mingM smote and
wist thiit 'floated afaovt the roof- of n large town, lying in lho
hollow of a onus id arable plain. Tin * waa SIuraa T which, in the
word? of its own sbigetV Sadi, ■ tum^ aside tte heart of the tr&Vcller
from his tmlm- land ; ' Shiraz, the liutfie of poetepimd lOfl^-tewers,
and nightingale tlio haunt of jollity, and tin* Elj^ian fields ot
Iovk+j pimped in a tnmdft e d as the f surest getn of Inin.

overwhelmed wiih a^toniflhment at tb+- i^riuty o| the pauomtna
t.lif* wayfarer expected to h*\ that eivn the name of

IVug-bAlhhti Akb*r t the RteS of God h Mttft Great, from tlu*

PEEttHA

expression that is supposed to imp to hh lip* a* ha gazes upon the
entrn n dug spectacle, I confess* that my own gratitude to JWb
demv bore fur less ro3at h.ii to the view, in which I saw nothing very
wonderhil, than to the relief which ! i-xpetie]ift^l at having renehinl
thfl end of Ihk section nf my journey* In the Sefnvi clap, an
aqueduct brought water into Shiraz down thi* pn^*, hat is now in,
complete mill* In the rock on the light-hand Hide of tin* road
h sculped here a bog-relief of Fnih All Shall, tqxiokiug a WiW
with two of Lis sous ; and hard by is another of Rustam transfixing
a lion which holds* a man in its claw:*. The end of this pas* was
Formerly fortified and oomplotcdy filled by an arched gateway t
t-tretching from mountain to mountain, This gateway fell into
ruin, but was rebuilt by Xeki Khan, who was Vizier of Shiim in
1820, in ths style nnd maimer apparent in the accompanying
photograph. In the upper storey, above the arch, is a chamber,
containing^ upon m de*h burromuhd by a wfmden rail, a pend crons
and monument a! Komn. Thiscnlo^al manuscript. which is said to
weigh seventeen mans, or eight stone, anti of which it is popularly
believed that if one leaf wore withdrawn, it would qual in weight
the entire volume, is variously reputed to have been written by
tlio younger AJi or I mum Zein^td-Abidin (Omamcnf of the Pious),
the sun of Hosein, or by Sultan Ibrahim, the son of Shah Ruhti,
and grandson of Timur. One may be reeonciled to either legend,
according m one prefers a sacred or a secular authorship.

In tlic Sefffivean days a species of Chehar Bagh, or broad
avenue, planted with cypresses* adorned with marble brains of
Viewivf water in the middle, and lined with row* of walled
tLed t>- gtndeu&, entered by arch id pavilmm*, led from the moun-
tnih gate to a bridge over tin- stream that flows outside dm city
walls. Almost all traces of this approach have disappeared, and
thei inteiveidng stretch of road k bare and depilate. The stream
was all bur dty at the ti nw of my visit, though, when the snow*
mclU it sometimes uoiitaiti# a grxtd di al «»f water* The panorama
of tin' modern town contains nothing of distinction except thrw
b!uc domes appealing allow a crumbling wall and numerous
eucloeurt^ thickly planted with ervpres§es s which seem, in their
sable stoles, to mourn like funeral mutes over a vanished post. A
low wall of mud, flanked with semicircular towers—both of them
in a state of ruin—describe* n drewnference of between throe and
four miles, although in tho security of modem times the suburta

I’JLVQlLtMi or IllElU^

FROM ISFAHAN TO SXI11EA2

have encroached upon mid abjured the outlines of the earlier city.
The % r rd!ey iu which -Shinia lies Is about ten miles in width by
tblrly in length, imd h completely surrounded by mountains, whose
snows In winter heighten the rimereal.MAilwt of the cypress-spires.
The population, which stouJ at 50. p 000 under Kerim Khun Yekil,
l '2 0 years Ago* has unr greatly fluctuate during tlm present
century, but has uRinily hivn r+rkoned at 20,000 to 30,000; figures
which indicate the stationary condition of the modern city, 1

I find in most histories tlint Shi raft (variously derived From
shir = milk, or shir = lion t An allusion in the one case to the rich¬
ness of its pastures, in the other to the prowess of its
people) war founded in 694 a.e>., Le. subsequent to the
Arab conquest, by Mohammed* son of Yusuf KekfL I cannot,
however, accept this as a correct version dF the earliest foundation,
for I regard ir m mere than probable that there was a city here
botli of the Aduttmeiuna and Sa^saninit kings. To a v,ry early
and nnte-Mussubnnn origin must be ascribed the castle on the
northern mountain and the prent well, of which I shall speak
presently + Again + there are, within n slight distance of the modern
city—-which,, like nil Persian towns, has shifted its site somewhat
at different times—remains both of Achmmeinan and Hassaninu
sculptures, which invariably herald the neighbourhood of a royal
residence or capital. The former are of the flume character tmd
age eis the Pereepolitan edifice*, and arc thought by some to have
lieen bodily removed from the Takht-i-Jnmshkl, while others liave
been inclined to see in them a later reproduction; the latter are
inferior editions of the grout bcif—ivliefs elsewhere encountered and
de.^ribed. 3 I am supported in my belief by the ingenious Herbert-,

1 Fnr mrcoianl' csf £1iS™ In ftdfllt Um *0 Cl) til® work* wntiwKtl for ih* route
Tctjrnin lo Isfahan : (i) Hie wutfei* tQCiUkimd ct|. m:> n Mahra; (3) tike wortl tcinri-
for the iciuti It-JiiTi tin l-i Shinn, Pearl? u\\ of which Include (ipsoripteUi:- of
tins latter dtv, rfi“ C. ^Sebitlir (1 “(SS), m 4rvilii9 P vul 1L pji. 91-7 t I1S-

1*4 t W. Krnnkltn (3 78A-7), Ohrtrrtitivn* ,wi a Tipwr* pp. 51-lAS; J. SraEt Wjiring
(l*U2) h 7hwr to tShffmz, dtp*. v[. to x.; tV .T- Rich £I §21). Jitnrfiry to
p. is I rt \ {Sb)0. UwjCtrrKiar f l£7,>), J^urwy tAmntgtk A^tara***, voL L cap* ii;
C. J. wnk (drs, lea)), /n kitid. rt&* p. rf

E The rtiirMi-r n mnltf- twnslit: of thw portals of .done* with tnunu flares
chtaAk-il In mllcf pel it* Inner of the j.imba, nksnled op a hill atom four
wutfci-KHt of Shlmi. They wer* foriEveri^ called Mnrlvr-i-Sulcinwn.ftud W*I»
de&afb&j hf Nkihuhr, Ou4lejf TVarWj, vnl. 11. pp r 41-li)+ Her Forttrr ( Tra toL I.
p. 7W), and Floodim Ihvapj* *a Pcr$t r toL j«l. JV3, Hiunine In 3ftiU foutid
tiitU thoy wero known ita Tnkfrfc-i-Ah^ NB>lr, SchiaeU^r Id 1 STS Talclit-l^Bukhcuii-

PERSIA

although t cannot say that: the evidences of antiquity which ha
cites would stand the test of the modem scientific school.

Here art magiok was first hatched * hero Nimrod for some time
lived ; hero Gyrus* the most -excellent of Heathen Princes, was bom ;
and here (all but hi* head* which was sent to Ptwgard) in tombed.
Here the Hre&t Macedonian glutted his avarice and Bacchianu Here
the first Sibylla kuu** our Saviours incarnation. Hence the Magi are
though c to have set out towards Bethlehem,, nud Is ere a series of 200
Kings have swayed their scepters.

However, np other record that I mn aware of T beyond
those before mentioned, exists of this ancient fthinnz. The
iutor city was much improved and beautified by the Dib-mi
ruler*, of whom the Samsam-cd-DowUb, son of the finnans
Asod-eiJ-Dowleh, was the first to surround it with a wall,
twelve miles in circuit, while the channel of Ruknabad had
already been excavated and named by the Rutn-rd-Dowleh,
father of the Utter prince. The various dynastic of Atabego,
whom I have previously described, and who governed Fara, with
Shiraz, as their capital, still farther adorned the city. Tower*
were added to the wall by Sberif-ed^Dm Mahmud Shah. Ibn
Bntutfth, in about 133D| said that it* most celebrated mosque was
that of Ahmed ibn Musa, s brother of Imam Keza + in which also
was the tomb of Abu Abdullah, who wandered about Ceylon with
a sanctity so well established t lint it reoogniaed even by the
elephants. The mercy of JenghU Khan, and the vengeance of
Tinmr linvn already been recorded. NavcrtheEcss T tin; city con-
tinned to grow in >i;,v and importance—^ a memory of which,
in Isitrr dayri. the vaiBgloriouF saying aruMt, - When Shiras was
Shiraz, CViim wa* oiu* of its suburbs*'—until the Venetian Josafa
Barbara in 117 1 T represented it a^ twenty mile* in circuinfrmice t
including tJie outskirts, while bin eni nitty-mari. Angtblelta, .said
that it contained 200,000 inhabitants, and was larger and more

Mme. DieaJ&foy In I SSI reported that ttn.i stones hiul l*xn cpt^t a
Tcri’iu gnvwtmr 4%glng underneath itirtin fi>r tlifr trcajHijv w\mh Ptnlnni intmii-
ably with Lftnodptfovia that they cannni Trad. 1^ als-n grota, IL

pL Lkt, oBii f'trroL and ChEpiet, liittrifr *i*\ rArt r Trtl, r. p. IS*. Tlae Sa^minn
ncidpLun 1 -* ara flluated n little further un, nearer the M.ihorEiL taka, anil cot^bit of
three trifotP' jn ulpcd in llie met nbove a pool They were dfiHttfbed hy CtmHn.
Thfrcnul, Kaenipfvr, IfatHtaUto* Lo Bnm,erc-» under thg i\tfo KudArngili* ta an*
cadled By Uirmin^ Naksh-UFurmodfllek* i.c r Hiinik-i-fiil^t from Mi** name nf tils
pool, YU* IflandLa, iA.V- pL 56, and BloUr, Ibid. pt„ US.

FROM ISFAHAN TO SINUAZ

beautiful Him i the capital of the Mameluke** With the dhuipprar-
ancs of load dymsries, and t he centralisation of Persia, lliot foU
lowed upon thi- accr^ion of rb-- Sclav i Line, Shims lost much *if it*
importance; although the rale of Imam Knli Khan, the celebrated
Govomor of Fora under Shah Abba?, invested it with almost the
distinction of a capital; while the aubjoct rivalled his sovereign at
Isfahan in the beau ti Heat ion of his sent of government, The obi
walls, seven miles round, wen-still standing in 1037, when Herbert
passed through the city ; but these had disappeared in the time
of Tavernier and Chardin ; and the march of decay, abated by a
severe inundation in I0G8, bad made tmeh wholesale inroads Lliat
both writers dr-bribed Shiraz as little better than u min. So the
town remained for nearly a centoiy* the ferocity of the Afghans
and the anarchy that, attended the fall of Nadir, accentuating its
decline; until, in the hands of a second powerful and liberal-
minded viceroy, i* enjoy$d a bright spell of tejuvencscnnce. Tins
was Kerim Khan Zend T who T ruling at Shiraz Vefcil or Regent,
on behalf of a £>-favi puppet, frimi 1751 ro 177ft, was practically
sovereign of all I'enda. He rebuilt tin* wall* of stone, with
bastions, twenty-right feet high mid ten feet thick, dug a deep
foseft outside, and adorned the interior with a citadel and palace *
anti with beautiful mosques, m-adr'esseA*, coravanfleraifi,and bazaars.
Indeed, whatever of stale! inc^ or elegance remains hi modern
Shiraz* may almost as certainly bo attributed i-* Kerim Khan, os
in other Fnrsims flities it must be to Shah Abbas; and the two are
among the tew monarch* uf Iran who have decreed well of their
country* After the death of Kerim Khun T then! wna a brief
revival of the halcyon day- under tile ill-fated Lutf AJi Khun, at
which time (1789) Sir Harford Jones. British Resident at Baghdad,
was the guest and friend of that unfortunate prince at Shiraz.
The triumph of tbit Kajura and their eunuch chieftain, Aghu
Mohammed Khan, involved a sure retribution apon the capital of
tlie Zends. Its stone walls wore levelled to I he ground and
replaced by the present mean erections of mud; the ditch wa*
filled up ; and Shi ran wu* degraded from the rniik mnl appearance
of a cnpiraE TO that of a provincial town, 1 14 government, how-
ever, remained an appanage of royalty, and turn usually been held
by a member of the reigning family. Path A ll Shah was Goverttur-
Goneral of Fairs during his uncle * lifetime. When Shah Isriroetf
he deputed more than one of his firms to the post, owe of these,
VOL. £L U

®s

PEMSlA

Hitsem Ali Mir/a, tht? Firnum Firmfi, utilising the position t<*
embark upon an independent rebellion when the old king died in
133-L. The speedy discomfiture of iMa pretender I liavo already
related. He dud, $non after, in Teheran; lint three nf his sons
fled to England, where, for political n^t-on^ they wort? much feted*
Mr. BoiDie Fraser, the Persian (mveUer, acting ns their cicerone ,*
mid wen- ultimately pensioned. In the present reign the office
has been tilled by various of the Shah's relative^ tile moat con-
tipimiuns of whom was one of his uncles, Ferhad Mitm, who,
twenty yearn ago, earned a widespread reputation for hml govern¬
ment but pitiless severity, and whose son now tills the (toft with
moderation and popular! ly. Furs wa* one of the many goveni-
rnoiits united in the person of the Zil-cs-Sulton ton year> ago* and
was nominally administered by his son, the Jehl-ctHVpwleh, then
a mere boy. the loading-strings being committed to the wealthy
but extortionate noble known as the Eolith Diwtm, who has lately
been nominated to Meshed* In hi-: Jong reign file Shiih hua never
once visited £himz.

Thu interior features nf (lie rity are not to h* compared for sire
or splendour witli those of ! he more portlimi capital#. The Ark
xise vrfc Dr ' s a fortified enclosure eighty yards square,

surrounded by lofty mud walls, with towers at the four
corners adorned with bricks arranged in pattern!!. Its interior is
occupied by the courtyards and pavilions of tlu a governor's resi¬
dence, which struck me as in bo sebse remarkable, When, upon
bin courteous initiative. I paid a visit to the Mofcemetl-wl-Dowich,
tht? present Governor, I passed throogh two largo gardoti-courfcs,
one of which contained a marble dado of warriors sculpted in relief
mid painted, a relic of the palace of Kerim Khan. Tha Governor,
who is a first cousin of the Shah, is a man of about fifty' years of
age, tall, urbane* of poUahed manner and address, spanking French
and familiar with European habiU and polities, having, as he told
me, visited Europe four time?, and having accompanied the Shall
in 1B73. He also (xissessed a French-sjHaking sasretarv* In
conversation he showed a thorough acquaintance with the strategical
situation in Perria T and wry rightly ridiculed a Hnslu re-Shiraz
railway w- prep herons. I have said, he enjoys n good reputa¬
tion, mid is much liked by the English resident s g p Shiraz. The

* BewralAtJunwd of ibuIrvWfc. tfartafirv ttfiH Iterri** Prbuvsin Lend™
{* volt. J83H)*

FROM ISFAHAN TO SHIRAZ

interests of the latter niv officially represented in Die city by the
Nawab Haider ALL Khan, a member of a distinguished family once
pronitrii-n t in the Deccan, but for many years resident in Persia*
One face of the palace fronts the principal Mridiui, which is n
desolate expanse c^ntmaing a number of gutid, 1 On it« northern
^ ^ side is n large building now occupi- d by the I ndu^Euit>pe&n

and Persian Telegraph es tabl ishment a, but formerly the
dticuu-khaneh, or audimwe-cbarri ber, of the pa luce of Kerim Khan.
An arched gateway open? from the square on to a Hue garden*
containing a hauz i ^ tank, at whose upper * i nd t on a platform, the
face of which in adorned with sculptured ims-reliefs in marble,
is the bigfj recessed chamber* now filled witli official bureaux
and counters, that once held the twisted marble column n and
the Takli t-i-M nr tuor, or Marble Throne* previously described as
standing in the takir or throne-room nt Teheran, whither they
were removed a hundred years ago by Aglui Mohammed.

From the Meidam access Ls gained to the Enz&ar-i-VukLl,
or Regent's Bazaar, an enduring monument of the public-
spirited rule of Kerim Khan. Thia bazaar, which ib the
Lillis finest in Persia, conflicts of n covered avenue, buitt of
yellow burnt bricks. and arched at the top, about five hundred
yards in total length* it ia crossed by a shorter transept, 120
ysiruLs long, n rotunda or circular domed place marking the jKnnfc
of interaction h where 111*0 a cistern and a platform above at
which the merchants meet for talk or consultation, From the
broir. gateways lead into extensive caravanserais., the most
spacious of which appeared to be that occupied by the Persian
Custom-hnoae, Iu Die Bwsaar-i^Vekil were all the din and jabber,
the crush and jnfatle f of an KoHtcni mart, which is the focus
of city life in rhe daytime, and is apt to give to a stranger an
exaggerated impression of tine volume of business, In the in¬
creased activity, however, or rhe southern trade-routes in Persia
in recent years* Shiraz, both m a consuming and an an export
market p has borne its share, A11 immense trade in all European
goods lias sprung up with Bombay* most of the Persian merchants
having agents in that city* The chief Import* are cotton fabrics
from Manchester; woollen tissues from An stria and Germany
loaf sugar from Marseilles (Russian loaf sugar stopping short at

* There were reported t<l hmi to I* only I,£00 infantry an-rl 300 cirtiUery in l\tc
rrpvinc*.

PERSIA

10U

Isfahan); mw augur from Java and Mauritius: French, German
•ind Austrian cutlery and crockery ; copper sheets from Engl and
nutl Flo!burl: ten from India, Java, Ceylon, and Chinn, nml candles
tmm Amsterdam. I found the Sliimais veiy Apprehensive of
tlift opening of the new trade route by the Knmu, which, without
interfering with their local truffle, would, if it anpemded the
Teheran-Bunhire line as the mein commercial avemie into I’ersia
froin tho south, destroy their transit trade Altogether. I had
myself quite sufficient <ronti deuce in the temperate pace nfc which
progress advances in Iran to assure them that there was no
injiiiedinte ground for alarm. So obstinate is custom in tin- East.,
that to kill A caravan track that has been followed for a century’
is no slight undertaking. I found the chief exports to consist
of opium, ! 0,0110 to 10.000 cases of which were said to bo de¬
spatched yearly from Ike twighltfuirhoodfl of Shiraz and Yezd;
cotton, pressed in Bushiro and sold in Bombay; dried finite’
especially nlmondf- mid apricots; and the Famous tutobatv, or
tobacco of Shiraz, of which the hx-al crops appeared to be, for the
most part, locally consumed, the bnlk of the export to Syria
uinl Turkey coming from other districts. The wine, for which
Sliimz is famous, bs also in such extensive local demand an to leave
tm residue tor exportation,

Of the vintage ol Shiraz I shall have something to say in
a later chapter upon tho resources mid products of JYrsin. 1
v,■! li<?r» mention that there are two varielin ts t n rod

and a white win,-, which are stored hi jure and sold
m glass buttIre of curiouB shape, locally manufactured. I thought
that some old Shiraz wine which I tasted was by far the best
that I hud drunk in Persia, an opinion which has apparently
brvti shared hy others before me, seeing that, two ceoluries ago
dobn Strays plaintively remarked that it was 'held in such
esteem that it was « dear ns Cumuy Sack in the Low Cotmtrere»
whilst [>r. Fryer, who may lie supposed to Imre given u more
scientific: verdict* ob^rvd :_.

The * .me, of the Growth uf this Country are esteemed ,he , uost
^ u Pe ^ and for common drinking,
* ha> “ llUe ; ttJ : *f'■ ««■«"« too heady for the brain and

he/uy for d,e Stomach tha.r Pas»ge being retarded for want 0 , that
proper Vc hicle. It is incredible to see what quantities they drink at *
merry moataw, and how tmronreraod the next day they ipp*^

FROM ISFAHAN TO tilllBAK

101

lirisk rdjnut their Bugs^ tvsiri will ijuatl you thus :t whole week
together. 1

Worthy dcukor! His gt-iainl testamur would have mined a
temped about his ear#, and have provoked a Ibrtmghffe controversy
in the * Times/ kid it been proffered in another country nearer
borne at the latter end of rlic* nineteenth century.

Among £hi< other mamifatifcnreH of Sbiw which came under my
notice,, and for which thr place i s faninuH* are the enamelled bowls
imd sT|5|il> * 'f kalian* or water-pipes, r«i^u/vt! silver work,
mimL of which very elegant frames and salt-eellsi© with
Oriental designs arw fabricated for European customers ;
khutpm hutith\ a spi^ciea of mosaic m\tk in ww*!, brass, -silver,
ivory t and stained bone, small fragments of which nr© fixed in a
bed of glue, and then pinned smooth, the strips tiding lit red
together as the sides and lid* of very pretty boxes; seals, engraved
on cornelians and other stones; ami jewellery. Of the natural
products 1 may mention the roses and the ^riltart or nighfin-
gtiL\ winch appears to be almost the precise counterpart of the
English laird,

Shiraz, like moat Persian cities. has its epithet of ptwoiifd
glorification, which is in this case Dar-eJ-Hni r or Abide of Science,
n pretension for which I should hav^ thought that its
?:;.n:r iiotorfousty convivial habits would have admittedly dis¬
qualified it. Nevertheless, for a city of its present dae,
it is well supplied with religious edifices, although these, alike by
their me and decay, tell the story of a deposed capital rather
than of u devout population. 1 The oldest mosque is the MflBjid-i-
Jama, built in 87"? a. It by Amru bin Leith, brother and sucw&r
4 if tlu? famous Yakub of that mime. But little rvirminft of the
original structure, the whole Lung in a shaking slate of ruin from
earthquake# and the ravages of time; but in the centre of the main
court is a small, square, stone building, reported to be a copy of the
Kunbi at Mecca* with circular towers at the corners, presenting in
blue Kufic inscriptions round their summits the date MSO \ak
This eurioiiN edifies? is known as the Khoda-Kliaiieli, or Hdu»e of

1 TmrtU fM |i. Camph 1 CMLn, r^d^ri (edit. LanRj^}, ?ol. vil].

Jip. IUG-i ■ itiRfff. pp. 37IL4IBJ. amb FrtnWIn* > ■

Jbvr t toL HL p. 17 .

T Tbe rn that I krniw of the, buDeftngl of HJiinn at Uic prwbt

*%ts wntiJjMjtl tullme, Dfrafwfay’j bwV jHXvmjKutiert I jy jtdmhnfclc UIllhI rations

f*i /W*-, rap. Jtad?«

PERSIA

10^

God. In the waUb of the main fabric is also Inserted a bluck
of porphyry which h IcNjkiKl upon as a aa$red >tone. Another old
building, lei spiT* L of its namt\ viz* the Musjid~l-Mo T or New
Mosque, an itnmoii i ly large edifice, in in ratJnr a better state of
preservation, having luckily escaped the worst earthquakes, This
mosque, which conristg of a Bab-n jofed cloister round a court, is said
to have been originally the palace of the AtaU-gs ; but to have
been con veiled to the worship of God by one of those princes named
Al i bu Sakl in 1220 A_n, t the mullul uq wliont lio had consulted
upon the illne&i of hia son, having instruct*ed hi in devote to the
Venice of Allah his most valued possession* The only fabric*,
however, in anything approaching repair are those erected by
Kerim Khan, the most beautiful of which i n the Mufljid-i-Vekil
near the Mridan, left unfinished by the Regent at his death and
ii ever yet com pleted. A modr^mk abo survive* and is sli 11 freqnen r iy
designated by bis name; while another, styled the Mndresaeh-E-
Baba Khan, in the vegetable market* is deserted and in ruins,
although retaining traces of nirtgiiilicence. The decorative
treatment of Kerim KliaiT-- bud dings is less conventional ami mure
secular in type than that of the earlier Mohammedan niosqu-efl,
bunches of roses ami firmem ami bright colour* being largely
employed in the eight mntli century /iTtfnce, which depended more
upon the splendour of polychrome than upon hieratic correctiis-'iiS.
The largest of the domes of Shires, which mv all of a somewhat
elongated pattern, that has? I*cen invivreitfty ccmijiared to the head
of a big asparagus, is that of Shah Chhfflgb, at no great distance
from the Ark. [t contains iho tomb of one of the sons of Imam
Musa, behind ft silver grating. Other notable tombs are those
of Soyid Mir Alumni, in a good state of preservation, and of
Sflyid Allah-cd-Din Hnsein, another snn of Imam Musa, which was
described by Buckingham in 1816 as she then fim^t building in
Kttirntt. Tin- tomb of Sludt Mi mi HnmEa t outride the walls on the
north, which was restored by Kerim Khan, has at most fallen to
pioces t and it* once ixmspk-mjus cupola ha.- collapsed.

The lifoaEul Utility of Slum/, were always, however, extra-mural
in character and location, and were centred in tin- unibrngeoua
p«, P in umi garden* and beside ilm poelW grave# that have won for
htv ii such a place in the realm of song, The superb climnTe

of the southern capital admitted of an almost wholly CntHof-door
existence; while the vivacious temperament of its people disposed

FlU m ISFAHAN TO SI Hit Aft

103

tJiL-rn to jollity and In n lift- of light-hearted noncijahmce nnd gay
carousal* Tin- pruph 1 of l'a re pride ihi-in*dvcH Upon Hit 1 purity of
their origin, fcbt* correctness of thtdr tongues ond ^ excellence
of tht-ir wit. No doubt we encounter here & less mtx^l Iranian
type than elfcrwhun^ m is evident from the darker complexions
and clear-cut features, the broivn hair and Hoe or grey eyes of
the northern provinces being rarely met with in the south, 1 In
nil my life,' Said the amiable Herbert, who gleefully welcomed the
opportunity Ilf burhting into doggerel, l l never saw people mon 1
jocund and l<v- qu^m4onu‘ i—

They revel nil the night, puhI drink the round
Till wine and sleep tln-ir giddy brains confound * 1

Others have been move sceptical about tile second attribute; the
excitability of the Shirazi being a property that renders him
sensitive and irritable, and skj cnet i m i:-s prone to outbursts of in-
tolerance* The Babi movement started here, mid has always
clnitueil a largo number of disdp1tv<

The duuncter of IVrriuti gardens* for its number and quality
of which Shinty, luis always been renowned, is, as T have explained
in qthiTdiEipteJ^, very different from tJic Eurajsnn pattern,
Cp| L rf * ,n " From the outside, a square qr oblong mi closure U visible,
enclosed by a high mud Wall, over the top of which appears a
dense bouquet of trees. Tlu> interior is thickly planted with these,
or/ as Herbert phrased it, s with lofty pyramidal cypresa-s broad
spreading cfaenawrs, tough elm, straight ash, knotty pines, fragrant
niastatiku, kingly oaks, sweet myrtles, useful maples.' They are
planted down the aides of long albyx, admitting of no view bul
a vista, the mimmndiug plote being a jungle of bushes and shrubs.
Water course* along' in channels or Ls conduced into tanks.
Scum Tim tv these gardens ri^e in terraces to it pavilion at the
-* mum it, whciM’ reflection in the pool bejow is regarded a* a
triumph of landscape gardening. There are no neat walks, nr
shaped flower-beds, nr stretches of sward. All is t«ngM and
unt rimmed* Such beauty m arises from shade and the purling
of water is all that the Pern ism requires Here he comes with a
party, or InV family. or his friends ; I hoy establish thMnsch'f* under
(he trees, mill, with smoking, and ten-drinking* and ringing, wile
a way the idk hour. Of such a elm meter are the gardens of

Shiraz*

PERSIA

The northerly of these, at a distance i»f about one and a
half mj!r from rh>- city, is tJuit known a^ the Bagh-i-Takfat, i.e.
ii.L--h.i- harden ©f IIjl- Throm-* or Tokht-f-Knjor, Lt% Throm? of
flu- Knjnt^ A palacr waa first built. on this site by one
of the Satghnr Ataheg*. named Ramjet, and wag called from 1dm
Tnkht-i-!\uruj[eL Bern hundred years [ater Agba Mohammed
Khan Kajar commenced the rebuilding of a palace on the srano
site* whose name, by a ■digtit verbal tninspHitioi], Ln-cnuie Tnkht-i-
Kajuriefo 'Hie building was completed Uy Path All, when
Governor of Furs, and was occupied for three mouths by the
Mission of Sir Gore Otifleley. in 1811, when on their way to the
Poraian capital. It stood, art the name indicates, upon the hillside,
tile conformal ion of the tat ter being utilised to construct seven
terraces* one above the other, faced with tiles, w ith a long Lam: or
tank, cohed the ttarweheh- t or little hca s at the bottom, and a two-
storeyed edifice at the Kuiiimir. The whole is now in a Rtato of
utter ruin, The wall is bnok^n dowti, the alleyn, planted with
orange tn-en, are unkempt and deserted, the pavilion is falling to
pivees. in common with many other of the gardens of SMibXj
tliis is Crown property; but the notorious p&ivtinniiy of the Shah
forbids him from issuing hinds adequate lor their maintenance;
and accordingly decay makes unimpeded progress.

J also visited the Baghd-No, or If Gw Garden., on the right of
the Ifflhhan mud, loading down into Shiraz. It wn> new about
D*gli a No twenty years ago, whim it was coiistraeted, with the
usual featured of walks, catiuls, and cascades^ by Hust-in
Ali Minn, ecu of Fatb All Shah. In ouo of its nr

pavilions, was a portrait of the latter monarch, Heated in stare,
and receiving the British Mission ©F Sir John Malcolm. The
walled enclosure h still filled with cypress and fruit-trees ; but J
found the summer palace at the top In a Hfato of complete ruin,
the wood-work Grumbling away and the pa in ring mid stucco
peeling off the walls. Water remained In a laige circular tank,
but wag covered with an unsightly scum.

On the other iride of the Isfahan road, and a little above the
Hafismh, is the Jchan Nemah, 1 or Dmplayer of the World, which
was known m the Bagh-i-VeHI in the tune of Karim Khun* but
changed its name imder Fath Ali* who, whan Governor of Fare,

1 Or, \llll# ha. mrplaiiMa ft a* ItogM-Jiui-j ii»>, i*. Gnnleu nf oqf sank
hill Lhb Ei Vranji,

FROM ISFAHAN TO SHIRAZ

105

built a Hummer-house In uv. Itncoupiea a walled enclosure, about
200 ynrdfl square. bat contains little beyond cypresses and ruin.
Jelmil In t !im early part of this century its central pavilion, or
N ™* Kolu.h Fmnghi, was in good repair, and wan assigned
to English travellers of distinction, of whom C- *T. ltieh, British
Resident at Bughdud and the explorer of Kmdktan, died there
of cholem* dh October 1B21* and was burin! in ( lie garden.

Higher up, on [ho same side of die road, is the Dilgnsha or
Heart's Ease, which was kid out by Uaji Ibrahim. when Kafontur,
over a hundred years 2 igo t and is irrigated by a stream that

■ hji. ^ c j rjWn tin- Sadi eh, n little above. In I $11

Morier reported it an in a state of ruin ; bat when 1 visited it in
1839 it was in better repair than any other garden in the
outskirts of Shiraz, having pEissed into the hands of the Sahib
Diwan. Its alleys and trees and tank were in good condition,
and a large party of closely-veiled Persian ladies, waddling along
like hales of blue cotton si r up on end. had been se nding
sin agreeable nffcemooh tinder its shade.

Bui, after all, i he chief suburban glory of Shiran is neither its
cypresses, nor iu tanks, nor its garden*, but its two poets' graves,
■Fiuii uni] The literature of a country never produced two more
Hafi* differently constituted exponenta than Sadi and Hulk, nor

two whose opposite temperaments and philosophy appealed more
closely to the moralising and (he lighter-hearted inatancta of their
countrymen* Perhaps it ia the predominance or (lie latter ingre¬
dient in the composition^ at least, of the inhabitants of Furs, that
lias accounted For Halls'/ greater popularity. Sheikh Uadah-ed-
EHn, siirruvmed Sadi, the elder by a century. Born at Shiraz
in 1193 a.ij, (some say in IUH), ho lived to little short of one
hundred ye&fw, although bh enthusiastic countrymen have vuno
times credited him with a considerable excess above the century*
He was one of the greatest travellers of the Middle Ages, There
were few countries between the Mediterranean and Hindustan that
he did not explore in the gqW of a dervish* being laken prisoner
by the Cmwniers in Palatine, mating the pilgrimage to Mecca
fourteen tinn^ T and assuming the religion of Vishnu in India
in ortliT to extend hi? knowledge. Well might he say of himself
—and [ cannot imagine a better travellers motto —'-I have
wandered through many regions of the world, and everywhere
have I mingled with the people. In each comer I have gathered

PEJLSIA

something of good. From 13 very sheuf I 3 save gleamed an ear/
Retu ruing from his peregTinntions 3 the poet resided for the last
thirty years of his life at his nutive city, demoting himself to
literary prcnliicliui3 t of which his *Glilistnn/ or Rout Garden, and
his 1 Boh tan/ or Fruit Garden, are the most fiiny ma Sadi had
nut been long dead when IXuJb; was bom; this bviug the ppeticnl
sobriquet worn by iluhnmuied SbemK-ed-Ditl, him of Shirans.
Of bin life we timw little, but bis mingled vein of gaiety and
mysticism, expressed in a hundred odea and sonnets, in praise of
wine, women, music, and Jove, with a higher strain of allegory
sometimes lurking behind, have endeared lum to his emotional
countrymen, while they alternately remind m of the odes of
Horace and the Hong of Solomon. It is disputed by erudite
Berdans whether the efforts of Hafiz* more abandoited Mn.su art?
to be literally or figuratively interp re ter L F<_>r my own part, 3
would not inflict upon the genial' memory of the poet the affront
of misconstruction that Jms twisted the beantifnl epit luilnmuirn of
Solomon into an incomprehensible rhapsody about the Church.
Hafiz died and was buried at Shims in aak G38S*

The Sadieh, or enclosure that holds the tombofSadi, is at the
,distance of about one mile from the town eej a north-easterly
Toaniiot direction, and lies just under the mountains. A garden
precedes o building, containing name small rooms in the
centre, and an arched dht'vtn on either Hide, in one of which, with
plain, whitewashed, unpretentious wnlb, behind a tab brass loitica
or screen, reposes the sarcophagus of the poet. 1 This is an oblong
cJiesfc of stone, open at the top, and covered with Arabic
inscriptions, A friendly gn^u-turbunod did the honours of
the place. A hundred years ago, when Fmnktin saw it, this tomb,
which is the original fabric, was covered with 11 very ancient
wooden case, painted black and inscribed with an ode of Sadu In
1311, also, Ousglej saw a lid lying near; but I did not observe any
stidi addition, la Tavernier's time f 1365) the tomb * had bet it very
fair; bur it runs to ruiue/ Kerim Khan restored the building,
without altering the sarcophagus; but at the beginning of the
present century it had again fallen into such decay that Scott
Waring in 1802 and Sir John Malcolm in 1810 offered to repair
It at their ow n evpense. It bos since been subjected to same sorl

► I lliurtmt iuo* Of 31 arv gfri'n by Otafekrft ml \ l plate xsy. , and M ed Dienlflfov

p. <20

JUOil ISFAHAN TO SiU'HAX

107

of restoration, Ijut even now lias a forlorn and friendless l-*ok.

11 ;L rit Lv is a dpscenb fay a long flight of steps to A subterranean
well, containing fish that tiro or were regarded as snored to Sadi,
the water proceeding from a burnt that subsequently frrigutefi flit?
garden of Dilgiislui.

Above the Mailieb ia a place in the mountaiii known as
Gahwareh-i-Dir or Demon's Cradle, from n fissure or channel,
CutiunEui leading to an arched passage, cut in the rock. A little
m-ii* to the oast on the summit of a pciik arts the few Hiit-vi-
vlng rein ulus of a ensile commonly called Kiilvh-i* Bander {Oineli.*y
says it is properly Faheuder) supposed to have been a Sassanian

Killll <)>' -AH!

structure. Hero, to >, are two welln. whose shafts are hewn to an
immense depth in the solid limestone of the mountains Tin'
largest, w hich is commonly called Chat Ali Bunder, i* "f unknown
or uncertain depth, Chardin said ho rehearsed a }«iltmwler before
n stone reached the bottom. le- Bran reported 120 feet and Stack
&QD feet, but Manors secant rl a inn id to have measured u depth
of 350 yards, while Dr. "Wilts let down CtKi yards of string and
never reached the bottom. I merely mention these ton fib'ring
estimates as illustrations of the ambiguity that is found in
travellers' descriptions of Almost every site or object in Pew.
'Die seventeenth century writers said that in former days women
convicted of adultery were pitched down this well; but Dr. Wills
epaaka of this summary mode of execution ns a recent practice.

108

PERSIA

Whatever history or origin of these remarkable shafts,, for

which of course the natives have n miraculous explanation, they
undoubtedly appertain to a time long anterior to Mussulman days,
when the hill id which they ore sunk was occupied by a considerable
fortress and used as n place of strength. The third well, which is
odled Obah-i-Muiiaizn A3i, is situated in a grotto hewn out of
the rock, and I* visited by pilgrims who regard its waters as Eacrt^d.

Nearer the city, and on the out ski rLs of lls northern suburbs T
the tomb of Ila liz stands in a. cemetery crowded with Moslem
T«n,fc*i graven The enclosure p known its the Haftzieh, consists

Ha ^ 1 of an upper and a lower pah, i.e* the graveyard nud a

garden, separated by n snmnierdicmso. Tlie cemetery is of com-
[Uiratively modern growth ; for ancient authors describe the poet's
tomb as surrounded by tree% the last survivor of which, a Cjprcaa,
said to have been planted by himself at the head of his grave, was
cut down about ISM *,n. The copy nf the poet's works that was
haided to the tomb was earned off by Ashraf the Afghan.
Shah, having come here and bean opportunely presented
with nti encouraging/ t/ or fortune from the manuscript kept by die
mullah*, 1 embellished and repaired the tosnb. But the original
1 Thi* practice, an Oriental vooiitpfjAtt *r tin- S?rfrt Jlryitfon* (Tendered

FROM ISFAHAN TO SffiBAZ

10R

warble slab mi wliicli was said f ■- I in VO been sculped ft cypres^ was
taken away by Karim Klian, who built it inf-- thi- tank in the
Johan N-rmih* and replaced it by itlie |.iresent sarcophagus I \ i*
h inside of yellow Yezd marble, and has two ode* from the pjwnu.
or collection of the jioets works, beautifully ckw'lhd in relief in n
nnmbep of elegant panels upon it* lid. 1 Of that which is gulped
on the centre panels J have mode a translation in elegiacs a metre
that seems to me to do leant oHenee to the * true to re and spirit <if
the original:—

Tv Sl | Ik? glad tiding* Edmiud that my soul may arise in communion,

L with celestial wings, ilse from the snares of the world.

Didst thou bat call mo to come and wait its a riavo on thy biddings
Yet should I rise in esteem over the I on Is of the world.

Lord, may the eloud of Thy mercy descend ia raindrops upon me,
Now ere my body arise, scattered ns du*t on the w ind,

Bir. op my tnrub r yo friemls, with mirth of minstrel and fhvgruu
St> 2 -hall I rise from the grave dancing. aglow with desire*

Though I I** nlil k iinc night do thou lie in my loving embraces,

Then £rutn thy sale id the mom fresh in my youth shrill [ rim.

Image of deeds that mv lovely on high dime forth, that el* Ihtlk
1 from the grove may arte, ^wtr above life and the world.

A frail Iron mi ling now surrounds die tomb, which h visited
by bunds of admiring pi] grin is, on tWoricmnl or festive aim mtunt ;
but ] dCJnFifp* I think that in any other country in the world a
greater distinction would encompass the hist resting-place of a
national hero and the object of adoration to millions [t is
interesting to contrast the grave of tbit PetSum poet w it h that of hi*
European contemporary. Dante, whose sepulchre is not less an
object of pilgrimage at Ravenna,

Adjoining the Hnti/.ieh are two other enclosures* which are
also oonsemited by much-respected graves, Of these, one is the
Di-rri^ij. .■ Cbetel Tan, or Forty Bodies, so called from forty der-
ff*** 1 ** visbes who were there interred, and were, I suppose, very
eminent personage* in their day. The oilier is the Haft Tin, or
Seven Bodies, built by Kerim Khan over the remains of mven

jip fn-Em,!iq - t«y the ftodef of < “ta:ir3« w - J. ami Dm I PVlAllUid), wesiJ wtiicd) cun-or-t t*1
fit drawing an <mzrn by opening ill nOnluru Ihn (jagt* uf Ihc poet, Was in udiimio;
own dating ihii lift-lime of iJuri;;. Lt IrtUI biHPli disSCrilwd by nm i -t vnittii, ledt by
UhmtBgp voL L jip

1 There bi flh cXtidkht ^pgrnvLiig of this tu W ftbe’s A’ami^n: of
to f'erria (IHIII

PERSIA

other holy persons, n$ well, it- is said, ns of Saltan Shaj*, one of
the old princes of l%m r Hie pavilion at the upper end of
this garden contain^, fir contained (for 1 did not see st£ in¬
terior^ u number of painting* of Bible scenes fe.g, Abraham
and Isaac, Muses tending dcthro'H flocks, etc*), 08 well as two
illust rations of Sadi and Raiiz. These pictures tin.' of no antiquity,
nor h there imy reason to suppose thal they are likeneHMfi. F>o.<li
is depicted n> nn old man with a white beard,, on axe over his
shoulder, and a dervish's begging-Inn wl in his. right hand. Hcilia
is a much younger man, with an inuu^on pair or black
moustachea and a huge club. 1

Such is a fairly complete summary of the buildings and
charms, or shall I not rather my the ruins and mourning, of
modem Shiraz. It b? t perhaps difficult, for a foreigner
jiuLrinLLuii T o place himself in the precise mental or emotional
environment that would enable him to comprehend the extra¬
ordinary effect which these have long exercised, and troutinue to
exercise. nve T the imagination of Pendant I can believe that in
spring-time, when the plain is a sea of verdure, and the brooks
dispense ii welcome coolness as they run beneath Use trees, and a
brilliant sun shines from the iiadimmcd sky, the gardens of Shiraz
limy constitute an agnsable retreat. But it in impossible to avoid
the conclusion that* in the eyes *>r the ShirozL even’ local gOOfe is
a swan, and that there neither i« nor has \**#n in the site mid
surroundings of the city anything fn excite such extravagance
of laudation. The place is very liable to earthquakes, by one of
which in. 1855 half the houses ore said to Imre been destroyed,
and 10,000 person® to have perished* Sonus writers, notably
Kinneir and Rich (the latter little thinking that bo w m going to
die there), have extolled the climate of Shiraz ns among the finest
in the world; but this opinion cfora not appear to be altogether
-hared by modem Euro jean residents, The atmosphere is dry +
and certainly far more equable than in the north; but intermittent
fever h very rif\ and is attributed by *ome to miasma cirising
from the abundance of stagnant water.

About s*.'veis mi lea in a sooth-eagerly d i r-N-t j. From, the city is s
>wrnnp p called Kamhagh. from the mountains by which It. jg over¬
hung oti tlie soul In Here. in the need-beds and on the marsh* I

I Cnpii* df thi^n Iiselnrt-; nrr pM'» by (JheM-ky, VuL, if, plulc mt\ CaVmtO
JotilifWl, Jau rtiry /wut India, p OS.

KKOM ISFAHAN TU SHIRAZ

enjoyed a good Jay a ^nipo-shooting^ there being ft great nunibeC of
birds. This marsh lies ui tbi* upp-r end of u valley, the tower
extremity of which is filler! by Ihe salt-lake of Matarlu,
laidt luJkti-A twenty miles eii length, into which Ituwti the Ft ream

that irrigates the plain of ShinUff, Along ifc£ southern shore nun*
thy cftmvftn^track to Karvlsfean, Kristy anrl Oarab.* Further to the
north-cart is the second largest take in Persia, known as the
Dsria-i-Niris, or Bnkhtogan. which possesses ji very indented and
fantastic outline, being almost divided into two bikes by 21 big
projecting promontoir or island. Though the chief confluent of
this lake is the Buud-Amir, or Ktir rivrr, which I have previously
traced from Pernepolis, its waters, which are fo^oentd by
flamingoes and wild fowl. urn eartrcHidy nud r in ilry BcaeGJUf,

the desiccated bed is found to lie covered with a thick saline
incrustation-' 3 It is doubtful, indeed. whether wb ought, to describe
this e^iwanae of water as n lake, seeing that it is. in reality, only
mi art'll tinder more or less permanent inundation* There Is no
depth of water. Captain Wells having walked in for a quarter of
a mite without getting above his knees> It would appear from tli. ■
negative evidence of history 1 hut the lake cannot be or very ancient
origin; Hieing flint it is never mentioned by the iimient writers,
and that El Istakbri, in the tenth century, is the first to allude to

1 Tftli mute tun been rkunftbod by Pupr*, flunky. Fluodin, KvSih Abbott,
Stolie*. Dtanlnfuy, ncul lYewiv* wJn*e w*ifk* will tw cited In the Table of Route*
at the tnd of Hits chapter. At trrv mllw from Sflrv[*uin am the mini of el guilt
huOdlsg; wh*w c-<intnti lufctl in turcr^l b.T n iVime^ field which fthew* tracra
jrpneiaus ftdP'gallerirji and & jartA Thi J h ccmmcmly rnipfriitifHl to Jjav-n bran a
Fi-uwanfim palace. \ml U Errtolhtfl by -nmt* with an ArhKmfnIjiTi origin. (Viifa
Flandln and t>wti % vnl. i. |ii.*. Ditmfi U r SrrrufA rfrrrdf OfilRtO-i

rj^y, Hi-ri|n_ sfsvdl., and M. Dlonkifoy. L'Art Antl$*t& th Iat /W+r, pt. W.
pis. At Fiwn there are nn mini in* uf antiquity with the exception or a

bljj mrmail. apjcimnl^y uritflHal istjled T^ll-i^ituk (Flimlb and Owtc, pi. ftOy
At Pnmti, nr BobjEnl, In Addition in the raiapfl rampart nr Kajeti-irtto nab before
mi‘nlfaced, Uvci* b a lrn-nt bn^ relief, Ilka thfj&r-of Na1c«M-A natom and

Sliapnr h mprcM'nt tn|? tHr BCHianb nn hnreabftofc abero .11 pprj.tr4tcflg , aTn,M>nf«iTinp
fhumwnof Vnlerbin tijwn lh* flbu^na* Cvticuli* (fM4. pi. 31). Hun l* ftlifl
a VFiPt anrlErrereund ball Hawn In Um m^kinlaLn, and dMdH int^ fvEfJq* hy wOEd
plllnr*. Tlxl- nnw known a* fch*GlirarMiH7fal Dtab* but Is wipj*n*eil to HaVd Wm
original lx a Tt>ck-tomplc, ll ountnins neLMuT ■onlpturcf nor iinscription,
pla. 71^3 .)

1 M4r Sir W. OiMdfly flfil I >, TnirU, ml. II. rnp. rill. ■ hTflltb Abbott
Jfwmni uf the fi r & r SL, to}, yarii. \ Jim I Cnpl. H. L. WetU(3 HSI ), TM&+ Pm&vdittpi ,
(near eerie*}, 1*4 v, jtp, PS-H4.

PERSIA

it. In all proitfiljility the river overflow In which It owrs Ik
existence wns consumed. in earlier times, in iirigiitioii.

In an earlier part of tbi^ chapter? while speaking of Dellbid,
I alluded to tho itomnd tribes of the province of Fare, It will he
Xbituiii- lr] 3 T duty in u later chapter, dealing with the south-west
^iT" provinces, where the IlM**, or migratory tribes of Persia
[ire chiefly concentrated, to write at length of their
features and organi sat turn Here, however* I mn4 devote a Tow
paragraphs to thu'i- of their numW who belong, almost exclusively,
to Fare ami it - udmiiiisirative ^ibdmsion of Luristan. These fall!
under two head>: Turkish Lure and Arabs, the principal tribe of
the funner being the Ka^tikaj. I have called them Turk ft because
that is theif origin,, the tradition being that they are the
descendants of n racy transplanted to Persia, by the Mongol
Hulaku Khan, from Kashgar; ansT I have? called them Lnrs be¬
cause they aw considered to belong to the Lur family, and In
nun me re and costoms differ very little from the Baklil Trm« and
KdJigelm The Kashkais cover, Sn their bit-uni ul migrations, an
immense tract of country; for; whilst in winter they un i to be
found in their kipkhik*^ or winter quartern, in the $anmit, or warm
region of the coast fringe, known as. Dftahtistajx (the Land of
Plains), and iri Lsristan* as the spring advance- they move north-
ward?, leaving a few men behind to reap the scattered fields which
they have sown in the southern region, and to bury the grain in pits
against the ensuing winter^ marching thtmselve^ for the limsn parr
at nights. and driving tlieir immense flocks of sheep and gouts
before them. So they come to their ydUxks, or summer-ha tints in
the higbhnuK through which the postal route runs from I^falnin
to Shi™, Tn the late autumn, ns the cold begins to increase, they
again strike their black goats'Jinir rente, and are off to the sou tit
and the sun, 1

These tribes, tike those which I dtall afterwards describe* ittv
under rhi^Trains drawn from ojio of their own ruling families.
Op^Jwi. There are two jamming office*, those of Ilkhani and
llbegi, which may be respectively rendered as First and
SOcopiI in Command. The former is also o/Rrh Governed of
KiruzhbwL the centre of tho tribe, and of Fenahhand. The

1 Tba b^i auUlflrttfe* m Mio Kfuhkaia azu KaLth Abbott {Jfiurml <*/ thr
h\ (t< S< vdI. XXTil) - Der Brie, TrorrU t vo|, L p. 2M ; K, Stjict H Sim Jftmtfo in
j^rrith toL i mp, v,* y1. ; jmiU F, & Andrcu. Tbe name is erroncocuik dvirfrt
by KUurk frmn lit* Turkic IsteAwflc** lu f\^

i tmi isfajjan to smiLiz

pri^S'urr incumbent^ Sultan Mohammed Khan, ho^ been obliged lo
content himself with thesis dLsIInet ions, tha titular rank of Jlkhuni
l>ing ?d) that is left to hiin of tribal power. This n part nr the
policy purmied by the (■hjvemiiient of the Shah, which t in onlar
more ofl^ctually to control the uoiuad element, ke+-ps a hold u|H)ii
their cluefbuns r often commonirtg them, ns hostages to the pro¬
vincial capitals* or to Teheran. In the meantime, the headship of
the triLh- is* vested in the Ilbegi, a cousin of the IlkfirmE, named
Unnib Khun, who pays in to tli>- provincial governor the revenue,
in the slmpe of a poll-tax ll|>jii their tloeks and herds, which he
collects from hb followers.

The Kashkaynwiv once a liaineroua and | nnvt L rfii| aggs i gntion j
hut Lhelr ranks were greatly thinned hy the tamim* of 1^71 —2 ;
Prf'w«n.i yearly moh? and more alamdon nomadic mid taka r °
Ji.L-inu settled existence ; and other ennsv* of decline were tints

stated to me in a eoTTUUuni Cation derived from the tribe —

All the Ksshkai tribes w now under rho Ebegt I>amb Khan,
Twenty years ago there wen? over $0,000 families of tlitwe tribes* all
under their late chief and leader Mohammed Kuli Khun. the father
of Bulbul Mohammed Khun, the present llkhani. At that time they
were able to bring into the tickl 120,000 (Tj- hor^ t but after the death
of the jitjove chief, the tribal alfairs fell into the hands of .-mailer
Khans, which respited in internal dissension. Owing to this, uI tout
5,000 families went over to the Dakhtiaris, and an equal number to
ihi* libit Kh-uiLHah, and about 4.000 fundin'- disj^rwtl theinse] ves to
different villages. Tliis reduced the total to about 25,000 families,
which 3 js their present Duudter.

I may say that I do not accept even tin* reduced feta!, the latent
information which I pt^iess rendering it doubtful whether the tribe
now numbers more than 10 T O00 to T 1^000 b itte, Th«‘ Ka-hknift
were formerly great breeders of horses, and having riebrr pastures
than their neighbours more to tbts west, possessed a finer ab>ck of
cattle and slitvp. Bui; this superiority U also btlng forfeited!, while
their constant propinquity to the Beat of govonimeiifc renders them
liable to a heavier taxation.

I append a tablo both of tho Kushkui and Arab l\mu of Furs,
as their dans have been returned by different authorities during
recent years. 1 Tie A mb tribes known under the collective title

p 1 have mt,‘ii )ct Ollier nnd Icd^tT tntife. 1ns! thvy Ount.-UEi jl many

r.nme- of HunJielmi am! ttuidiE Lars trib^-. who occu py ici tfctesr 1 11 rLou^ part* cl
e-iuterri Fai>«

VOL* It I

of lOi&tfrimh, ft re hr minieKrii-> Hum t)m Ttirka* and me said
not to number more ttmi 3,000 tents. They Are scattered over the
mim region, and claim doRceitf from the Beni Slmrlam
' Sli ‘ tribe of Arabia. They bear a much worse reputation
iban the Kashkai^ robbers as the falter are apt In be. There
is a certain well-judged immunity a boat, nomad larceny : seeing
that, to-night they ated* and to-morrow their place knows them

no more.

OF FlM AtfU LaUIHTAS

KAsitK ai Tatar* (Turk*) Kiiahsaii Tbtuea (Arab?)

1V7»

e.ti. mi

IB$»

im j

Ikuln

N*Ur-

liniil. jC I li
tJiiaJu

A I 1 Ml wn.Hl

.Tfthtanti

Ka.i.ksLlI

nAftrfuiH

M.l.fi Hi.‘.iA?

PiW^E ^rwtan

Kii^nh

Iffdar

ASS KaU Kfcuini

OilllMil

KiWirjfc

1, .■

KwlAuli

1 M h3.0lTfcl 1

m*h hfknkl

Fnr-L

KafiAtiani

\XAd

AbiA-.ilii 1
0«]tu&D

Rupert

S* lh ±f

JtAbirni

Aj^^iu

A l.’il 1

t inolnji SI 19 I 1 I

A«4>

ftujirf

NiMkr

I^Llijlfhl

A|uLlu

KrLftWHai

lull H4>ai M-.LII

AriafHLU

fc Turin.

lAkllKbl

aniiS

Kin-i-MiUlE

KifeUL

IJp4-i sKlrt

Kh.iwrjjiin

JaBf 3^'h'L

|:i>jjsl K il 1 Kl>4Li1

£, Sf.g^nHMBrr:

linnih All in!

AenalJi-Hit lnqht

l h AliiLd

jl^lMrlur Kbmij

r^rnglDn

Knluil fCNuth

Aldtl^fiiii

Routas is r Fjles a so IjJlB.lstajn 1

SnTtUfc TO Fas A ASP DASAQk.—A. llnfrra (JSOfiy FStft^ v«L t

i- a p, jtsviiL: Sir VV r ChuvU# (lhl I), Trawl** voL il. cap. rili.; R. FFmrlEn (Ifitl)*
TV^jr^r, vol- ii- Cn|W. xlvil.—v|ii_; Kuith Abbult (l&W), JiwrmiJ tks IL G.
tqI. mtl p. I 49 j F. Slolw *h rtrtcUSf* />rf. rw Jfer^* + IK 77 ; Mnie.

DlcubJoy *IS3I) P Za./Vrir P Kip-. ixy-tL ; J. |t_ Pret^ns (ISftV’L ifcpj&tm, J^w*.
*>f the E. G r 5 + vfti. j. part iii.

S!J tit AX TO ISl’SPKtl AhU.\fl (Gull Ulil’N).—(J). rirl Irtish ami For^ A- Hapf^
(1@0&), ihid- v<il. i. cnjw m : J. K. (ISM), ihW. t (2\ rid Jaliram

anil Lar; Sir T_ Hilbert (IG27). iV-vic J7*« r*t r Trart f, pp. 11G-I"7 \ -i. A,

(LC3S), Trawl*, jip, J, B. Tavernier (lrttHS) + Trur*L k litwk t . cap. sail. i

J. Stray* (IG72)* L BjptypAp cap*, xxxiv.-v.: £Er I. Char Jin (I673F Jaguar j (edit.
Limglt;*), vol r vit$. pp. Pr, J. Frytr ilG7<i) P Tmrtb, letter t. f C. Lc

Hrun (1705), Titirei j r c*p. Itiii. 3 A- Dapr£ (IRON), Ibid * vrj|. IL cap. il

gmu lo FiirittAUAU ASH Etch 1KB. J. Scott Waifti# (ISOS), Twr to

Shim r? t imp acattLi Archer liny (1837) 1 /iWWiJea* d* pp. GL1-4S0;

F, Finite (l&JG)* ; E. StacV (lfl£l]k -S^ Jfm/At irj iVr/^, vo3, 1. i¥,;

Moi^. rHEnalnfcij (|Bfii)p ffcpii. mi_ tiii.

Fj tie /.a BAH TO Lak—K. Stuck ibtd . Vu|, E, rnp. tL

1 In |Il|a taijl 4 ‘ ^ipnjrlc- thr wtiil; by rhe: tflinc writer t^furt junnnnjjH.'Hl.

! HA PIT EE XXI

I’FltRKPDLIS, WtD OTHER Hl'ISS

tbc ruiiuMl km^ltss Ikere,

Stupendous columns and wild images

Of mcirfl than mm, whore maibte demons watch

Tlw Zodiac’ll bmien mystery p and dead men

Hnni,' their mat* thoughts m the mute walk aroaod,

lie lingered,, poring on muia&ffaU

Of the worlds ytiulh. tlutiUgh the long burning hIiij-

(taxed iL'ti these Hj-ioochh'SM -ilinpCff, nor when the man

Filled the mysteriem* Hahn with Kuntlng shade*

^tui pended he that fa&k„ btit offl* gsnd
An4 pi'-i], till moaning tin hi* vOCimE nil id

Fla-dud Iflto strong in-; pint inn, and ho -aw

The ihiiillng secret* of the tilrili of rime.

ffllELLKTt J/41^ ]IG-J£g r

I SHALL devote this chapter to a critical cxcvnunrUtcu of the Hevera] m\m
and monuments of antiquity that arc encountered within tin? space of

Ora.pi'tf »*»»“

V ls, ‘ ,,! "y through

^ '4ji nj i t° north of Shiraz, Here* within «ajsy reach and almost
rvkbfl within sight of each at her, is grouped in all probability the
most cciiiid arable collection of important remains, belonging to widely
different historical period^ that eg drea m scribed an area can anywhere
display. They belong to two epochs, tha Aelifcmenian and the
Saa-4finian a and they represent three fori mi i*f antlquurinji art: the
structure of pulaoea, th e excavation of rockdombs, and the e h Lulling in
high relief of ^dlutora on atone, The Ach*meninn remains may be
divided into four group* : (1) the ruina of the royal city at think hr (to
which must be appended an Account of its nuMssor in &UKaniim and
Mohaminr^hm A aya, with the few surviving n-lion, of media-val handi¬
work) ; {2} (be royal gepukhrcs p the fire altars olid other remains at
Xnkah-i'ltu&lam ; {^) fragments on the plain of Mcrvdaahfc ; and (4)
the great platform of Peres pol ls* with its series of ruined halls and
and its nidc-wpuldina behind. TI 10 Satan man remains also
fall Into four groups* which will l*c dealt with in the order of their
oc curren ce in a traveller coming from the north: {1} the Fchlevi

I 2

!e* In the valleys of the Pol vac and of MurYdasht,
which the t ravel I ar iid-asat a distance of forty miles

PERSIA

m ■

inscriptions. in the cave of 11 ujinlmd ; (2) the wrie-H of bo^rdlefc
representing the investiture, combat*, and triumph of the sovereign-"
of this dynasty i which are curved in the Hid-face lie low the tombs of
the Adh®menwkn kings, and which have given to the place the name of
Nukshd Rustam, or Pfcfcnn-= of Utmtnm, from the prevalent Persian
l^lsef that the national boro is the individual therein depicted : (S)
similar nK-k-eatrvitigs oil the other or southern side of the valley of the
Pi Avar, to whkli has I non given, for a similarly foolish menon, the
nsune nf Koksh i Ttejeb* though who Rejeh was 1 utii utiahla to explain ;
(4) Pehhfvi itiN’iiptions on the platform of Pereepolis. Though Hie
Bculptum Eire later in date by at least six to seven hundred
wars, u] lA in &otno cases by tiuirr, than the Adtaoneinuii trophies, I
sliall yet. deal with them find. j both because they are first encountered,
jiTid because I desire to clear the "round for that which h the main
object of this chapter, vie. a discussion of the arcbitacture and ruins
of Pensepolis.

In the previous chapter I mentioned that sifter leaving Si vend the
wayfarer wh ose fare is turned southward enter* a broad cliff-con-
B mhlb^" fo ™ valley* through whniM fc level bottom tlso Polvur has
n- 1 ii^inr.: ^joun d for itself a deep bed in the soft soil About holf-

w *y down this valley is the viHrnguof Ifajiabad, the diff-wall
hcriptkjtL 10 tin* north of which h about one mile distant,. \* pierced hv
several natural caverns oF considerable depth and diincndota^. 1 ti the
entrance to one of these, which is commonly named from Sheikh Ali,
no doubt HnEno venerable recluse who selected this spot for his retreat,
but which i> aUo known as Trng-i-Hiinh Sarvon, live square tablets or
panels have lyeen (smoothed in the rock at a height of si* to seven feet
from the ground for the purpose of receiving inscriptions. Two only
arc ho filled ; and they contain the celebrated bilingual epigraph of
Shnpnr L, which f have previously mentioned in voL i., and upon Ids
interpretation of which Si i\ Thomas Iuls bused the theory* for which
thert' is no external confirmation^ of Uw conversion to Christianity of
that king* Moricr apia-ar* to have been the first to visit the cave ; 1
Kit Porter the find h> copy the inscriptionof which ilfastratbna
wen* afterward* given by Flandln and Coate, 1 and more recently by
Btolf*!,* and of w hich plaster easts were brought to England In 1§S5
by tiir E. fttnnuus, British Resident at Hushire. That the decipher
meat nf tlie Fehlevi charade r 1ms reached no scientific stage of
devdopu^nt, is manifest from the different readings that have been
given of the Hsjiubad linns ; and sooner than pin my faith either to
the ^liilfhCbriitkn theory of Mr. Thomas/ 1 or to the howriiot theory

p. 80. c Trttreli. voL L p. fil3_

* Ftrtf voLiL pi. Iftl } rob iv, pl r 1U3.

* /Ve*r.«<■ '*ii, >1(1- li. pi. IS**, 1 Kn-fy ^nahn IuMfriptiairt, pp. 7*1-101.

mtfEftiMSp am i oniEli uiinm

U 7

of Dr. M, I bug, 3 Jililioui'li I believe that the latter bus secured
the verdict of most Boholf(V% T prefer the H-ecurity of unshorn ed
ignorant

It vr jlr from the rA«/*ir-£/raiirA of Pnidlt ft* stated in tlm

lush chapter, tbit I n>l forth to visit the combined Aduemenbtn am t
a &ak>. SiL^Liiian remains at the wrsU-tn extremity nf £kft cliff wall,
hnowti a^ Ru-ji'in Kuh, that bourn U the valley of the Folvnr
ftvtua on the north i some three utile# fifwni Hajiahod,. find sinks
immediately beyond the sculptures into the broad plain of Metvdaoht,
From Lists post-lion.‘u? they cannot l>e more titan one mile and a quarter
distant in a straight line ; nnd T standing on the of thn stabler,
I c<ndd ejtsily tnico tJio three colo-vd cruciform cutting# in the roek
face tliiit marked the site of three oat of the four royal tombs* a small
black spot in the centre of each tniuvone limb indicating the violated
porta]. Tot, though the distance b insignificant* so cut up iu the
valley with gullies and rate recourses that I wu obliged to make a
detour of at least one mile further, and to approach the cliff from the
eastern .ddr\ At other spawns of the year the traveller U sometime
conducted by a simitsLr detour to the west. Tim entire extent nf cliff
occupied by the tombs and bas-reliefa b b*K tluwi two hundred yards
in length ; and the 1 jL iter were execrated by order of tha Sraa niftn
sovereigns, on panels of the reek, purpon+dy ^mootlied, below the
Hf-pulehn^ c r| L -- 11 - L 111 irioiu predecessors, citlrnr mmhst&vitik the
-soil + which Is here very much in excess of its original height, or a
little atom it- 1 liiWIy speaking, the sculptures fall into two dual's
those of the early Saunnian period, of Ardeahir and of tflutpnr I. f in
tlio middle of the third century A.D, and those of the middle Sa-sSaid.Mi
|x s riod T about ihe time of Varnlirnn IV. and \ , at- the end of the
fourth century awl later. For the art of the later Snffiftjiian*, at the
beginning of the seventh century * we must refer to the gmttcws of
Birituiu It ifi only in the present century that th* true historical
reference of the bas reliefs of Naksh-i-Rustam bus lieen definitely
ascertained, although Persian* can still 1w found in abundance who
decline to hh^gijiso in the crowned and bearded equestrian giant of
the portraits any other than their beloved Rustuin—an error which
was even shared by the learned Niebuhr little more than one hundred
yeans ago. Small wonder, then, tbit in the fiftamtli century Barbaro
the Venetian, all tmoonj^eiooi of the absurdity of his hypothesis dmuld

1 p« flffi J&ICrW LtJT>*j\ut$£ vftkA PrtTt?^.

' The bc*t account h of Swk*hA.Ra*tam in modem Timm atv those J. J\
Morfu t (UM0)« ^ J***«*& N". Sir W, Ouimby (I»U), Trarvh, wL 11.

p.^3 rf ; Sir R Kir Fritter (H)g), Trarrf* vol- R pp, S:W-CI; and the
wurki, containing plate*, which orated 1*1 »t «iii. 5-lure recent writers, sticli a?

IV.-hnr and HfrCLnsrr, hnvr mainly rfl|ut*l iheir pmltW>W^

PERSIA

nti

luivn solemnly accepted the principal figure ns 1 seetnymg to bo the
jmage of ft bayBb&rtmse man, who they *uie wms Sampson; 7 or that.
Sir T. Herbert in 1B37, with a sup-rtor historical knowledge, should
jBt havo reen in him *u brave chevalier such time ns Artoxerxe^
(Queen Hester^ Husband) wore the ilknUm. 1 Tili within tlra la^t fifty
rears there were writers who Hi tided the principal figures into two
groups, tk^ribiiig some a-i Etamnutn kings, the others as monarch* of
tft£ A rsneicI or l^rthkn dynasty who were their predecessors

Tha bas-reliafo of Naksl HbRuatfmi sire seven in number j , although
it would appear from the evidence of the nick that julditioiui] pfknels
must hare beau contemplated. tor instance, after passing
LbVL the liret royal tomb K and before mining to the mmpleteri
Vttnvknw piuieh, there k n large incised sprain- on the difi-facf-v
una gmrrbtt designed for * further hiuL-raliisfp It now contains

only a later Mohammedan in&’Tiption and three small holes, pro
smmihly jscOnpd Hint for votive offerings or tapers. Faring west, -t in
the same direction m the above tomb, the firal SoB&Linian tablet, is
encountered. Ukuu the level of the grOnnd T wlildt has accumulated
an high m the knees of the principal figures. These are four in
number, with n fifth of diminutive afcuure* The length of the entire
panel is nineteen feet, and its h+ight, ils jit present rxposKh os eleven
feet . 1 The central figure facing to the right is a Biuwidan monarch
with the symWdieal globular crown* and immense Btreamers Boating in
the air behind, Hia hair stands oat in bushy curls on either side of a
handsome countenance* ami his heard is tied in a knot lielow the chin.
He is cM Lu the dom'-fiiting jeracy-Kke garment common to the
Hn-ssanian style, emu smiting in #hufiBnrw t or Snore Happing trousers
up in the lego. His left hand rests on the hilt of his sword ; with his
outstretched right hand he holds the circlet or emblem of royalty, the
other hali of which is grasp'd by a figure of scarcely inferior Hirmm-
sioiis that confronts him from the right-ham] side of the sculpture.
This, too, is a royal perscumge, masses of curled hair projecting uIjov*
the lop of a imural or tnrretcd crown* The hcardluss face, the Jong
corkscrew curia hanging u|k>ii the ahonktere* the apparent formation of
the body in front, and the contour of the hips, have BuggvBtod to all
writers, ^ think without exception that this in n female figure* and
the consort of one of the Saseanian king:-. Porter went no far as to
say that 1 Beauty hi sulEcientiy Bet-n Lu the Juno port nf the Queen,
who wow as ra|dik* of averting the rights of sovereignty ns the really
manly form of the king by her wide-’ The romantic hut j*cho|ar 1 y
ixirorList accordingly i dent him I the royal couple as Varehmii Y. (or

1 Tcricr, vol h. pL (ray fanciful); Fkndin and Coslo,^o1 it* pk iHG;
StoU*. vul. li. pL 123 : Ificuiafoy, pi. v h pi, IS,

I’ElWKh'iJLIjS nTlIHU HI IXh

119

Mnhnun Gur, tin- grRit hunter) wd bis spoiiae, Tor no other apparent
TTaSOflLf however, Limn that thr ston' of their sn|w*ti(8i am! nmnbn is
ore* of tin- inijst popular of Peniaii legends. 1 Mwhlii the images of
tint king (lillI que.ii (if, Indeed, tin* IntUT 1m u woman, which, iti spite
of (j priori improbability, ^ teems somewhat diflicalt to doubt) i-. u
siimll and terribly defuced figure, apparently that of n boy. 1 his fuel
Ims led Dieulnfoy to conjecture that th# royal trio are V«shi«t II.,
lies, wife (who, according to Ikirmesictor wns (laughter of the leading
Jew of llobylon), ami their eoti, whose united figure* apjrtjnr on the
coins of tin- reign. On the other hand, it h> doubtful whether the
public portraiture of the female form would Have been admUaiblo a*
early aa the end of the thinl century A.ii. I prefer therefore to Univo
the Lmloatbicatiou uncurtain. Behind tire king are two tnirkm or
attendants, the foremost of whom lias a thick beard and braided hair,
and wears a tall helmet (Binning calls it 1 a high-peaked bat ) termina¬
ting, after a fashion not unfamiliar in ifiwssnuian likenesses?. in the head
of an animal, generally supposed i)i this case io I mu Horse. His rigin
Hand ami forefinger^ uplifted in the conventional attitude of respect
Where this sculpture hit* escaped mutilation, it is well executed, w.ti
after the lapse of ISOO t<> I SOI) yeurs retains an astonishing ubarpiietsand
vigour.

Tin. 1 nest two tablets, as wall as the fifth m sequence, belong, in
common with a similar bas-relief at FinimUd {which will be mentioned
, , in the next chapter). to a different claim of monumental

^ sculptures. They illustrate ncitlu-r the pomp of regal
tnlilxiut investiture nor the triumph over a captive foe, but the
tnSn*" equestrian prowess of warring kings. Accordingly, the stitT
[k|u! ponderous forms and pose of the ceremonial

panels are here replaced by a freedom of movement and a vivacity of
erinception winch reflect infinite credit on the artist who designed
them, and entitle tin* sculpture of the middle Sassanwn period to
no mean place in the history of art. Tim locular form of crown or

helmet worn by the king in one of these Wrelirfc ^ suggested ...

connection with the name of V andiron IV. (a.u. 368-399),^ and
whether he be tire actual monarch depicted or not, it is proliabU
to that period that all the equestrian panels should W attributed. 1 lie
lir^t two, that now claim our notice, are curved one above the other m
thu rock at Kaksh-i-HtLStam, U-low tire wood Acha Hiennm tomb,
which ii. that of Darius, son of Hystaupwu It was noL till fifty J*"“

. Fil „i hi a Flmibr cm tnuhem.Mounrey lA-riwy, P ^)dcreHb» tlw my.l
Citclct a, * a wreath bald in token Of the bond of lovr which noted them.

? Ki-r Farter (JVarelj, VoLL $i. K!l> <lu! <ml. apparently, dim*rO this «B?m
himself, but mention* bavin# «■ il IU ah aid diawlng ftl KW. ll b. however,
clearlj dfliblc Wh 10 the nxbtd eje tktui in JibcS c^rfflplw.

iso

rKHSIA

ngo tlmi tlio lower of tbe two panels was laid bare by Messr-s.
Ftuidin and Caste, haying previously beeo conoe&lgd behind the
rLccuiiiuljitirjkiMi of soih It is cvon now buried up to the flanks of the
liorae&J Two mounted figures are depicted therein, charging each other
nt full gallop with lances in rest. The cavalier on the left hand is
presumably the king ; lit? on the right wears a helmet with a knob or
Home sort of projection on the top. The upper panel represents it
niiuilar combat, bat at a more mh aueed stag*. 5 Here the Imran of the
figure on the rigjht is thrown upon its hatnn hes, and ita rider h driven
hatch in liis saddle, while his lanes is tilted up in the air by the 1m
petimus onset of the charging king. The latter wea^ a peculiar helmet,
consisting of Lwo wing* <m cither ^ttlc of lln- Sassjudnci globe (the
[win IdniKfl of V arah ran I \ r .), carries a great quiver at Ids bolt* and
wears a sort of tuft on either dtr>tildcr r a riuuhtF ornament dec ora ting
the head of his charger. 3 Behind him stands an attendant or
standard-bearer, carrying a peculiar standank consisting of a ring at
the end of a staff and of a cross Ijnr below it, from which depend
tassels. Hie kings horse further tramples under foot a pmstmte
flgunv Both on the bodies fof the cavolfuTfl in these bas^&Uefs, and on
their stceds T are traces of coats of mail ; and the combined panels arc
invaluable h& documents concerning the military i^uipjoeut of th.-
period. The lower of the two, owing to its long coneejilroentj is by far
the better preserved, the upper tablet having been shockingly defaced.
The latter is 24 feci long, by 1^ feet high.

Between the second and third royal sepulchres occurs the fourth
Ijfls-relk'f, which is the first (hitherto mentioned) of the scries at
Fourth Nak&h-i-Sustain, Sliapnr* and Danibjird devoted to the

cammentomtion of the crowning exploit i>f the Ferae-
fll nj PI1T Homan campaigns of Shapur L, vbt the capture of the aged
Yikfun Konum Emperor Valerian at Edes&i in m 2i iO a.d. The
haiuilinlLon of a Lnlin Cuwli^ whether follow*- J ur net by the
indignities described and primps invented by later historians/ vrns a

• Flandiu ft&<l Costc* no3. Iv. pi. 1S4 : Stclie, vuL iL fit 123.

1 IYi/r h So addition to the above,, Texficr, ral, it- pi. 132.

1 Kiir Farter, who Idnatiflfts the two with Yamlumn V T and a T^iar

kh&ti wham he killed in combat near Rhcj, fanriFuflv Uriah* thn? this otnanicEii
waj a bladder rilled with •rtaOfcu, in order to mate » tuba

* C0blemiM.imJ7 wri t era. speak: only nf the etfi|» SCOT having been kept En nap-

tivity (ill hi* death at an advanced old Bat in I ha next century Lactantlnv

followed by u|her historian*, ru^t on foot the story that he wia compelled to .ant ft*
a footstool to Shnpnr When the 3a? lor mount rd on horseback, that be*-^ con¬
stantly bepaw!, F meted, to the muEtiiude, and that afte r hi* draHi hia skSa was
stuffed, and bang Up In a frequented (maple, The mmlptHOM do not cormbcirftt*
lhciN k indignities, which may hare owed their origin* iw Gibbon auggwU, to the
malice of the defeated uaticnality. allhoitgtl ihers wa* little in Fer>Ean character

VKRtiEPOhl^ VXD (miEli 1IE1XS

li!l

sufficiently notciblij achievement tv appeal to Ulo ecus ten qtoiury
imagination, and may be held to have justified the boastful reiteration
of its accomplishment Uy the conqueror in the mdghlrfmHiood of LLs
various capitaJ*. This panel is 35* fleet tong and JG foot high,
its, level at the bottom being about -4 feet above the boO. 1 The central
figure, of more than human nLutum, h Sbapur, seated on hnrsoback
mvl receiving the homage of the two Homans, the captive Caeenr mid
Cyrsjictis or Miriadca, (hr obscurt fugitive of Autiooh r who was
elevated by the aoom of the conqueror to the imponaJ purple. Tfio
Saasanmii king presents the IminKiune features so familiar from,
sculptures. am! coins* with thick outstanding clusters of curia* n.nd
wears the mural crown ^urtnotmted by tin* gloUs ] I is well-trained
beajd is tied in n knot Inflow Isis chin i a necklet of large stones or
ornaments hangs around his throat; and behind him in the nir t as also
from his a word hilt and platted dinner's tail* float i3l*- dynastic tUkls
or frilled ribands, Mii lower limbs are dad hi the (lowing yh*(hm rv
of the period, While It is left hand grasps bin sword hilt, his right is
oul stretched to meet the uplifted hands of the n Landing Cyriadis, to
whom he appears to be giving the rydari* or royal ctreLet. The
Syrian wears the Roman dross* aa also does the kneeling Qesar, whose
hands am outstretched in mute hiipplication, and whose face weara an
expression of piteous appeal. Valerian also hm a chaplet round his
head ; and both dftptivea have shack Jgb or fetters round their ankles
At the crupper of the kings horse is suspended by a chain the big
ornament* seemingly a tassel, that is so frequent n feature in the
Sossonum bas-reliefs. 9 In the background appeal the upper part of
rhe figure of an attendant, with uplifted forefinger of reverence,,
wearing a tall tap and dosftly bmidid lmir + Where the lower port
nhoutd have been, the rock has 3teen ainOGthed to rwdvo a long, but us
yet uiidi-cjpheird and lamentably defaced* inscription In the Peldovi
character. 3 Xo doubt it relates, though I am not dear that Dinulafny
Us a right to Htutc it as a fact, to the victory of Edesta. As regards
the execution n£ the entire panel* its artistic merit- appears to vary in
different parts, ami to betray the handiwork of more than one

or Mluat lh*- silEiff to render them mtrinsSEadly improbable, nd5c fouim Ci„ Ii»w
itnjfeon’t Scrrntk tirfat Ori+'ntnJ JfcwcAy, pp. Uti-S*

1 Tciicr, vol. li, pi. I2&: Flnndch and Co# to, yqL U\ pL IWt Stotafl, vat. li.
pL 11D ■ PienJafoy, pt, T. pL li, pp. ] lo-lfi-, Cfliflfitre S, TJlOttiA*, Ikriy
Jirn^n Jutstipturnt, pp. 1*2-9.

1 The ingenuity of rival commentators kK perferned oMonljililag feats with ih]«
object. TMtcool IbtiGjflit it was a ilii“k H Chardin a bullet ttwd as a aling al the
erul of a chain, OuMtcy a for snarnso, and Teller a laa&o Binning rails it

'* bU]CB mmtfl like a rabtage/

1 Vid* Niebuhr, layafv ra .■irai/f, tqI. II, pi, “J4 ? fbjnlin nnd vpb if.

pi l^i (^r)r StoUe, tqL iE pi. im

PEimiA

1SS

cmftsuuui, Shapurand Valerian aro both admirably pocrtruyed j find
i nr kLng'ti lionc jlIsg is dady rendered, though it lh o(>en tu the charge
that can he directed against Slept of the horses in Sassunian sculptures,
vw. thjit it resembles ft sturdy Flemish dray-horw much more than
a royal charger, I now regret very much tlmt I did not reproduce for
this work the photograph which I myself took of this bns-ri>-lief T
iteenuee, though smaller, it appear* to me to t» infinitely better than
the accompanying eng racing, whteh I procured from the French
publisher of Madame Ihrukifcvy^ 1 * ick .

Below the fourth of the Aeha-mrnmn tondna is the remaining pnnef
qf orj oestrum combat already all uded to, lib On the level of the ground,
and hi 20 feet long by I U feet high. 1 Again there are
u/iirtL two cavidierH engaged \ again hn on the right hand h
EqtkrftxiMi worsted, his hom being thrown Tnack on [ts haunches, lie
li • ■ ^ ' 1 himself nil but dislodged from his seat by lik ftdversaryV

laiictip which piercca him in the throat, and hm own spear, snapped in
twain, projecting aim]rash- in the air. This warrior wears a helmet

1 Tester. vet. LL ph i:U i Fkiivdh anil CWe, vul.Lr.pl. im ; iStolio, tqI. U-
P LH8.

PKCSKL'nLJS, A Mi QTlJEJt ltUlKS

surmounted by it soH of m M or knob. 1 Hi* vktor»otis.iititftgoni&l F who
;uc|vnuci'a nt full gallop from the left-hand *jf tin? panel, hoa lost hi.^
features hv mutLlation + bot wear* a three^ pointed diiidam turmoilntel
by u crest or fcngU. On his -hemMens ajul on the hcud of bis horse art:
l u ft s or urnamenl* similar to those before noticed* A gigantic quiver
hang^ =Lt big aide, Both tilt king and Ids steed appear in i^irt* to be
chid with coats of mail : behind the quarters of the latter tbo two
ouetoa inry tassels By in the air, and beneath its bdly Langs a row of
metal discs or medallions Behind the king appears his ensign, also on
hgeticback, carrying in this case n new variety *f standard- It consists
of rv staff* terminating in a crossbar, crowned by three projections, tf
uad with two tufts or tnssete depending bdow\ There is nu prostrate
figure in litis ha.*-relief- The spirit and reality of the combat ore well
sustained, although it is curious that in this enst, inverting the ordinary
error of proportwm t the harnmiui are too smal] for their bleeds,

Procciding west wart l ? we name to another smoothed surface on the
ruck, evidently prepared for a has-relief which ii lias never received,
H j xl1| ISTe-ar the end of the i>luiT T and beneath the solitary pillar tluit
nilplia: rLits from its the sixth panel h then reuehed/ 1 Its

r ,^n' iltM i illm iiiMiifinFi are 17 feet by 8 feet. and it differs entirely* lnffh
iN'iniiiie'iw j E] nD(l from any other of the

Sculptures, Chiselled on a convex, or projecting, surface of ruck, it
follows the contour of the cliff. Nine figures stand in a row, of whom
tlve on the left-hand side and three on this right, facing rrsp^tively
towards the central ligurtf T have their entire irtutum iadow tile cheat
mu waled behind a species of harrier or pew. TIump oh the tight W€ s ar
lofty caps or tin ms, ore bearded and fUrld, and have the raised right
hand and fan-dngur. Of tbaie on tba left, two wear tin- pointed head¬
dress prtsviouslv noticed as ii'mimaliug in the bend of aii iuiiina] t
variously interpreted hy writer as a lion, horse, or dog. One is bare¬
headed, but ban thick curls. The tw* outermost art* sculped round a
retreating angle of the rta'k, In the centre* in a gap or division
hotwetn the emli^pewt/stands the king, fronting the spectator*although
ids bend is turned in profile over the right shoulder. He wests the
winged crown of Varrvhran II {which also appear* ou one of the

1 llorEtr<silled it a Grecian Sahact. and twisted Stool of nil vtirUiadhiude
in liis drawing-

* Kur Porter foattifcly thorn n planetary reference,

3 Tciior, vd. li. pi. u'l (This 1* a very incorrect pint 0 * tnoji much as the contour
Lhf fbe sculpture i* made wwsvn, EntTcad of convex.) Ki r Peitor wnuiiltod *
different error by catting off thm- king nl i lie kntta. hlainhn and Coatc. rol iv.
pi. is*; Stolen vohii- ph 117,

1 I am by no meiin* clear I bat ihk apparent buriwfe i* not merely tfio pre¬
pared, but UEiAculptd, MThwo of the rock ihe lower part at the hgwi i having
never been completed-

PERSIA

134

sculpture* rt| Sbitjrar), his Hair » puffed nnd curled* an d Ills hands rest
in front upon tho pommel of hisaword, Mis figure is visible to half-way
between the knees and feet, the latter being hidden from ladow by a
projecting hurfuee o( s tick, of curving rmtlhie, which liOA fiomewliat the
appearance + .f ... riorum, but whieh T being smoothed in the forris i*f an
empty rablot, may, it iwcur* to me* have been originally deigned rn.
rrsX'ive a Subsidiary sculpture. The whole s- a I the Height of MVeraJ
feet idiove the ground, Acting upon the hint of the helmet, Canon
Rnwliiison suggests as the subject of this Uts^ielief tin incident in the
life of Vurahran IE., whfs, baviog commenced to rule tyrannically* was
taken to fash by bis principal nobles, instigated by the chief of tin:
Magi* and in reply to their expostulations* promised amendment arid
reform, J doubt* however, whether a monarch would voluntarily select
such an incident in his career for eternal commemoration. Mad u
Royjil Academy existed in England in the dny* of King John, would
ho have conuaiaifiofiod the President to paint a great picture of Runny-
nn?de and Magna Carta 1

Adjoin ins' this panel Is what Flandiu describe* as the JhatLche of a
figure on tlio rock, Sput of which, ns 3 did not notice it myself, 1 will
quote the words of other writers who did. Mirier <ayst : 1 Them jy
beoadca anotlmr curious figure at full length, behind this rack, close tothe
.sculpture, but still making part of the Earne piece. J1 Torter writer :
* At onp* end, entirely distinct from the group* is the outline of an
extraordinary figure notched in the marble, not unlike the first idle
drawing* of a schoolboy/ -

Separated only by two or threo feet of rock from the bus-relief last
described, is the seventh and concluding one of the series, 1 It is, also,
growth to all probability* tin* earliest in date! representing* os it
docs, a scene which is again pourl rayed on the apposite side
mil] of the valley in die rock-recess of Naksth-I-ltejob* as well els

Afdtf1illlsr in thy neighbourhood of Firtiudmd, namely, the invr^itlturo
of Ardcshir Babukan* or Ariiunet, son of Babek or Fapak, Asunder
of the Has^ivman line, with the iin|)c:riul egdaria by the god OrmuKd,
The two iu*in figures bice cadi other on horseback; their steeds* which,
with an excess of disproportion* are hero Li ti le bigger than stout cobs
or ponies, touching their foreheads in the centre of the panel, whose
total length Lk over 2- fact The figure on the right liand of the
spectator, n* an inscription od the shoulder of his horse reveal^ b that
of the god. Upon his head is the murid crown, with curled hair piled
above it, and subsequently falling upon the shoulders. His beard is

1 HM Jvmrp, p t 157. 1 Trank, vol. I p. S5&,

r Texiflrr.Tol. U. pL 130 s FtniniSa and CmI*. vot r h. pt. I&£; Stoltc, vtjl. ii,
pi.. IIS i Dtonlafoy. pt» v, p|, II, pp. Il3_H.

I'EtisEPoLIK \Ml OTHKEt lU'INS

sqnarv-cat^ not utsselled. Iti his Loft hand In* holds :l avi-ptra, which
in tlu? SusfiaTkb.ii .sculptures nppeitra to 1 k> an emblem of divinity. With
hi.i outstretched right hi- gr4Sps one-hull of the? qi/ttirrw T or drclofc with
pendant ribands* the other side of width is held by the king- Both
figures wi -ar long, (lowing trou' i Jr^ mid at eseli horse's hind -quarter*
kings the usual big tuft or tru^eL Arilcjslih m'Aiiiii globe-crowned
helmet, of which the balloon-like, inflated globe is commonly supposed
to tv pi iy fin, while the close-fitting helmet with check-plates and hack-
plate supplier elei interesting contribution to the history of undent

MVESTP UAS-BJlLILLr ■ oiirno \au JkBDESma

armour- E I is left hand L uplifted, arid, apparently, hold to his mouth.
ITc wears a rounded beard# uid hair which hangs uncurled upon hi*
slioulderi. Around his hordes chest is a bond adorned with circular
medallion*,, the com^ponding ornaments upon the horse of Ormuzd
being liaoe F hands in metal. Behind the king stand* a single figure
bolding a fly-flap, not unlike the attendants who are eo conspicuous in
the prOGetthmid Ik is-relief* of the Acha-menimi kings. A proatpite
figure lies on th^ ground, bom-ath either horses hoofs, that beneath
the charger of the king wearing n helmet or hejubpiKM* with n iniArk on

PERSIA

120

ilie right aide and sMuainers W*nrf p and being com manly supposed to
represent AmWus, the U*t Parthian king. On rhe other hand, the
figure whom tin? god tramples underfoot ruppears to have snakes
wreathed round his head* a BjrahoKfffU which has been variously
explained Ker Purler identifies him T somewhat vaguely with the
1 gargon-headW demon of the Arstieidinn idolatry.* Thorns talks, not
Ifiasa obscurely, alien 1. the 1 in&ke^muLed hdmef of the Made. 1 Rawllu*
>on decides for Ahriinan, the embodiment uf evil : Permit for Zohak
t>f An -Oah nb it, another incarnation of tlio evU principle. 1 E n*r riptions p
bilingual, but trSUtem! i>* in two forma of thf; Pohlevi character, and
in Greek are cut upon the shoulders of both home* That upon the
charger of the king,, which wan first deciphered by I>e tfneyA runs oa
follows *■—

Thi? In the Image of the Hraiiad-wtJnHppftr, the god Artatahalr fArdwhlr),
KEnc of king* Aiinn, of the nice of tllfl florid, srm rtf iho Gw] t hifuk, the King.

TTse Greek inscription on the hoivi" of Onmupfl anya:--

Thin Is thrt image nf the ffad Stem*,

This is tli* sum-total of the S*ssaniJWl sculptures of Nak*h i-Rustam.
Wp will now cross the valley again to it* southern side, where, soon
after turning the angle uf the mountain ^ that face the plain.
i»T Mervilndit. and Batting our face* ttroank J’tr.vpolis,
XntNb-i- a bant two miles distance from the pulaee- platform we

eocue across tv small natural recess* in the liose of the cliff,
the sides and back wiill of which have been artificially smoothed in
order to receive the work of the chiaol So snugly hidden is this rock-
nook P and m littered ore its approaches with loosely-pi led boulders, that
four travellers out of five would probably pass it unobserved. It*
*ie3e^ converge tow cuds the back wall of the natural rock ; and all
three surface are adorned with Ijah- reliefs of the earliest S&vmnUtfi
period t representing incidents similar to those w hich have already been
described They have Kutfcrod, however* from more deliberate anti
■-ava^e mini hit ion than their fellow* nrs the other aide of the valley,
this being due, perhaps t. ntheir grater proximity to For-ic polls, whither,
-.ve arp told by Chardin that the Prime Minister of <%nh L, sent
-.ixty men with order* to deface the sculptures, so os to discourage the

1 lTdV Ftdfem J r thfcftwiatgf, 7#rf ntf vrtfM *k Vrxdidad, p, 1sv.

* Siol».\ *ol. IL p!l. I Sfl ; K- Thwomu Early Swttniati p, 29.

* OwIbv my* ft was arrl Hoislly hewn, Imi T 4o not agn» with him. Far a
plan, ridr Flamlin md Coins wd. lv„ pi. wi4 for autbnriLiiM, ride J. p. Morter
1 18ffl.>h /7r*f Jrrmmff' pp. 1H7-UI Sir \Y, Gow&Ifly (ISl I), TVnrr^ voT. ii, pj.,

Sir IL K l'iir(nr f Tran-!;, voL l. pp J. UiShcr {]£$}). jT^rurtf, p, .HU, ri

m'tfut K. II. Kioch dii,r±rflf ‘ii Smfpt\*rr *; as wn-fi n* th-e work# mu-

talnhig cn^rav[n^ er pliologrmph- which wLll be rvfem-d to.

L'ERSEFOIJE, AX It OTHER RUfNS

1^7

visit* of Europeans, If the liss-reliefs of Nakuh-i-K^jeb hod capped
the earlier violence of the Arab invadcra, to thh barbarous ruffian may
fieri laps be attributed their cruet bite. Nevertheless, i-lioy ftill present
one portrait-group of un^ut-pasied excellence, and have been preferred,
by BOiufl writers to the tablet*; of K&kafa-i-Rustam, ami by other* have
linen ranked ok e^unl with those of Stmpur.

Oil the right'kiid wall of the recess, the lir*t tab let repeat* the
famiiUr scaur of the investiture of ArdesJur by the god Onnnid.’
lMi>t It* dimensions are 2t feet in length* and frot in
ctm»Lwl Thft two horsemen meet in the centre of the

,i3iii punel ; and Ortnusd, wearing, m Imfore, the mural crown,

ArrWlkir oxtatldfl tin- < to Llio king. Hen;, however* are no

prostrate figures Itcncath the horaes* hook The costumes mid dmperiv*
liave been n Illicit obliterated by wanton outrage, and the head of
A tdesl iir ha a well nigh disappear** J,

The Middle panel depict* a similar scene., in which, however, the
principal actons arc on frrfit, and other accessories are introduced.* Jt
Srcotttl is 18 feet long, and 10 feet high, TJio central figures* of
ihnl'iLLi ooIobmI sbie, are sigmin Onnuid and Ardeahir* who stand
.uni einifn citing mi eh other, holding the circlet in their right

Afdi.^btt hands. The deity weans the mural crown, and carries a

Ijltoti or eteptre in his left hand. The king, on tha tuft, is crowned
with the in El at imE globe, Between the twn p hut nearly destroyed*
appear two ibminiiLiva figure*, seemingly threw of children, whom con*
jeetum has identified with two booh of Simper* Irani before lie ascended
the throne. Behind the king are two attendant one holding a fly-flap,
the other being a l^cnrded body gurard T all but effaced. Behind Omnned,
but in a separate panel, which may perhaps have nn independent con
nectiuu, are two other figures, with t heir backs turned upon him and their
hands lifted to their frier:-:- The Ijeanlle^s contour of these lia* led to
the belirf that they are women* nod one commentator hoa gone so far
ns to recognise in one of the pair the daughter of Arrnbamni ami
mother of tth&pur, and in the other the wife of Arde^hir h s vixier. T
am far from ready to accept the hypothesis that any of the earlier
Sas&Lnian soulphim contain the likenesses of women, and am more
disposed t* attribute a smooth face and braided hair to the palace
eumtlchfl. To the left of the inn in tablet, on a fragment of the reck p is
the bant of a figure,, pointing with hi* finger to a Pehleri iavriptiou at

1 Toiler, «*L 1L pL 140 j Flttndin and Co#te f vxL If. pL 1M ra|, 1S,

pi. m

1 Toiler, mb II, |4. Ill \ Fkmriin ami Ckrstc, *oI. i*. pt 102 ; Stclm, *d 1, It
pt. IP) ■ DJenlafoy, |at_ v, pi. 17. Thu two lsttnr phoic graph* are abwitre omf
M&soUftfiicmrT, Dm mi, ll may be mid, i* the orleittiih

FEItSlA

I £6

eon.4ilernble height fpora the ground. L FIan.din and Costa hjrniak of
this supplemental tablet as a discovery on their part, apparently
unconscious that it lmd been described both by Morier and Ouselcy
thirty years Inufore.

Ev far the host-preserved of the trie, although the face* In it have
been bucked to places, is the concluding panel, on the left-hand aide of
the ram 1 Ita dimemdons ute> nko greater, being 25
feet in length by Mi feet in breaiUh. filuipur I.

Sihapariwid T \ t \,. s upcni the scene, followed by nine of his princL-
l«>]j itu^ti 1 bodyguard* w hose pose and stature are accommodated to

the configuration of the rock* The perspective is extremely faulty,
nnd there arc the errors of disprO(>ortion bo umvenid in the S^aanian
sculptures ; vet for a certain solemn dignity* and also as a likeness nf
eontentpormry dress and arms, this panel has a peculiar value. The
king wears tlie globular li-owti* the orated hair, Urn tunic fastened with
nchuap on the left breast, the clingingjri^y, and the etreauung
with which we arc now bo familiar. The charger is lifelike, and iU
trappings an? carefully executed. His followers, with one exception.
ffe;u . |jgii rottml topped caps or du**, upon which aits synihoh, Mipponod
to Sjp kidimtivc of rank. Timas are on foot, and stand leaning upon
ttu'lr Jung, straight sword* ; tlie rest are mounted. The identity of the
mmn figure ir left in no doubt by an inscription, mPehlevi and Greek,
Prti deciphered by hi Sacy, upon the cheat of the feints horse,* there
l>eifig another inscription close by s on the smooth rock. It runs as
follows : —

Tltin b \Uv image of it* Oiroui/l-WOTJlhippeF* the god,. H bn pur, Kiog uf king*
AtiMi uml turn-Arum, the race of the $mL% son uf ihu Omnaid-WoTnhsppef, thr
Ood* Artuknliatr {AnltaUr)* Ki&g el king* Arlan* of Lbe rru?n of iba gotb* Ha-
offspring of the god H Fai*^ the king.

Before taking finalla&TO of the Su^animi sculptures of Naksli-i-
EnstaiLi and Xakiih-bRvjeb, let us t.'ndmbar to sum up our
impressions upon the phase of art which they represent. Its
CntiiHRi ( j (S £ 0Ct4 Qf pntportiorb design* and t reatment are on the
mrfnxiPj nnd are very apparent. There are a clumsiness and a ponder
onfi solidity about the forma and movement*, except in the panels of
equestrian combat* that produce a sense of fatigue ; and a want of
tliat higher imagination that ai once idealises and impresses. Yet, for
edl that, we may ol^erve in the work of the %Sossanian artist* a dvcided
originality of tronceptaon, and n copsclousne^ of the dignity of art*

i Texier* voL ii. pL H- i FtafuUn rinti Coste, ?ol. iv. pt 100 ■ Stoke, vr>], |i.
pi. lOt i Thomn.*, fttrty .SarntnioM fttirrijUia n*. f.p,

* tcxliJT* ™L ii. pL 103; FiandSu anti Cost*. vdL It. pi. 191; Stelae, tjj|* ii.
pt. 102 {t«T wwam«Mftal)i BtenIa£oy t pt_ r_ pt 17 .

1 Rtclze, vpl. in pi. I Hit ■ Hioiua^ party Sa*mnian tfixriptum*

PERHEPOUS, AND OTILI^lt liL'INs 13®

Their style it in no sense borrower! from rhe AoJiirtMhiart models that
St., in 1 1 them in the face, On the contrary, it i’ the offspring of its
own age, and while it is unmistakably affected, nN'l in its Inter
i,my even have been actually nssiiited, by- those Homan iiiflaMKW
with Which Persia, under its Parthian rulers, had coii.e into aueh ulnae
contact* it yet nmnitit a Persimi, not a Rommi, art, as its handling of
llonian figures and costumes sulMflntly l*t’tmys. There is a certain
simplicity, and even nobility, in its presentment of the monarch, who is
everywhere the centre of the piecu ; and in the modelling of lle-sh and
form, particularly of the horses’ bmliis, as well as in the treatment of
armour, equipments, atnl drfsfi, there is a notable advance ujmiii any
previous Persian sculptor®- To me this appears the more remarkable
Ihsmum" it arose in sucli swill siicri'zisioii to a |eriod when (here is
little nr no evidence that art existed at all, 1' ith the overthrov, of
t he Arsacldsc, and the restitution uf the natiutol religion, there must
have been a gemttno reawakening of the national spirit. Hi is i>
i>x pressed in the vigorous lias-reliefs of tliB tirnt. Sumnisn kings, ns
well a* in the palace* and public works which they constructed. Then
followed a decline of art, until the second revival, in or about
the time of Yamfanui 1V. A further reaction *ils succeeded by one
dual effort of recovery, probably under Byiaittine influence, in the
days of the splendid llhiwnf* II. or Parvis. Into the effect* of
Sassanian art and sculpture upon other countries and later times, a
subjnet which has been somewhat conjeeturally treated by certain
writers. I must here forbear from entering. t*i me, however,
recommend, in addition to M. Ui.ulafoy's Minnwhel fanciful work, a
paper by Mr. A. Mwov* Spier* published in the 1 Proceedings of the

I nsi.itiito of British Architect*, 1^9--

There remain only to he noticed two Pehl. i i Stuwriptiai.*, one uf
eleven, the other of twelve lines, which occur on the south portal of the
^ n -. n 1r - Palace of IJarius on the platform at Per*.'pulls.’ They relate
.i.to the reigns of Slmpur II. and Shaper IIL, aiul wen: Urst
!rtv<~ copied and brought to England by Ouselcy in 1*11* Their
poll* existence musi bare been ovorioohed by those who have

written that there U no trace on i.li* Aduvmetuan platform either of
iseb'ueiil, Parthian, orfb.>«iiiiiii rule.

From the Sasanohui monuments in tins valley of the Polvar 1 now
retrace my footsteps, and renscend the stream of time to discuss the
far more complex and absorbing topic ftf the relics that exist in the
name neighbourhood, belonging to t he greatest epoch nf Persian history,
and n> mating to us in stupendous. albeit mined, gore? the iodwhUotfblo
' K TLouiu {Early AijmjiiiJ* crfunreUxly <«?«. in an inner

•mil ft] r of the Mall of >' Vjlia ciii' »■

1 Truer L f, vol + si. p* 23*. pi. 42. For a phaltifiTupgi, ride Stall*, raL i H 1S+

I vol, n. K

130

PEKSIA

Kamiiwork of the Adm-menian s&vercigns—of Baring of Xerxes, and
of ArtaxerxcuL Already el prelude to tlii & dtscus&Kra has been uHbrcd
AcW * n passages relating to the city and Bopnh'hre of Gym*

!tii lii^N sit Bwvg&tlie ; and from the older mbs and the onrlior

monarch pus** by a natural seqDAice, to the Inter capital
of his more remarkable *uiX/evsor

The subject may not inaptly be Introduced by a few general remarks
Oh the history and diameter of the four groups of remiiiiiH that lie
AMkBt before* tii T all appertaining to the same period, and exempli
ifiivnis.-rn fying in greater or Um degree the Mine design, The rubs
of Mukhr, the rtuk toroU above Nikhsli i liustam, the scattered fn^
wants on the plain, and the piUar^staWfm platform of Perapolii, -ire
now reeogjiiied beyond possibility gf doubt m the work of the mc-
eessora of Cyrm, the abodes in life and after death of the celebrate]
Kings of Kings, And yet this knowledge is of no great :mtiqaitv \ n
the modern world. The ejirllesr mention of the ForsepoHUn ruins, of
which I am aware by a European writer, is that of Friar Odoricus, who
in about 1325 a, a journeyed from test (Yc/d) to Hue (Khttzktun) and
on the way ciieountervc!

a curiam city Homed Cow tir lieu, which formerly wm a areat oily and [ n the
olden tinao did granl hcathit to the Kctnina TIle comjurts of 1 L 1 aalls Is a good
fifty nulns- anil thorn be therein pfclKceb jet s*l ueidl iijj entire, hut Without
in hah Hunt* , 1

The worthy friar land evidently no idea of the real identity of
Gam arum. Even lea, if possible, 160 year* Inter, had the tmTolkd
Yctietion* dosjifa Barbara, who, having recognised Samson in Rustam
naturally saw in Per^polis, which h* called Caiuanu a work of Hebrew
origin, and in the Bund-Amir a structure of Solomon, In the seven
teenth century, MamleLln wan better informed : —

The religion* men of SchLm* told mu I hat die learnrdwcre dearly of opinion
that thtt Undent Pc.™pc!k I ad *Uh> 4t lietealjcns La (b B . nl Oh eh cl Minor), «nrf thuE
ihctic wet* the minis iff Cyrni' Fftlnee. 1

Wp|J would it have beet) if tilt' friars of Shiraz had | U i<j , widtx
audience. Otherwise w<* should hnnlly hare seen, as w« have during
thc last two centuries only, the nun* of Penwpolis rariouoly tntorprtfted
“ the work of Laaiicch nud tl.« tomb of Koali, ns dm to volcanic
eruption and to tin- worship of iilols • or have heard their date pro
mifcwNialy bundled about over a spaco of ;i(KK> »

' Oitkit aiut Of Hojf Ilafclujt Society).

• Trarth (Inns. Iiy .1 DavEm), p. ■).

■ In th, present century. M iTailly, eelhorof llist^JrFA m&M, A

T™** 1 / * V ' Omt the Pendm Empte „t„l , t|r f[ramt '

tlun Of P*r« r ,J» mounted to 8f» Bx‘ M d lrshcnrrillc Wa* of the *nrJ
fijimicra.

FERSKPOLIS, ANIi OTHER RUINS

131

It i* amusing enough, in the light of mieertninofl knowlrdge, to look
Wk upon thf coTijectuml labours of others who hav* tolled m dark-
Tlfcai h however, should not diminish our gratitude
r..nn7lpfcui those who, like Ohiutlirtf Kaempferand Ln Hnin, at the* end
^ of the seventeenth and Itegi&liitig of fchtt ^

lirat essayed ^n ah. cunsidembh:' wnlc the wort of tnui^’riptieii nml
aittdtmtion of tin- Aehmmemati monument* ; a to Niebuhr, whuo
flcboLaflj Lndurttry dignUiitl 11 ic- middle of the latter cmutury ; or In
those who, like Rich, Ouneby, unci Ker Porter, early in the nineteenth,
brought ijoct to Europe mare oiitful ilrnwiii|*s mid reproductions than
bid hitherto been prmruruble, to Assart the labour* of the students
whose keen intellect* werrs already tremhling on the brink of o moinen-
tom* discovery. This was no liras than the dodpberment of the ctmei’
farm alphabet, There is no need here to repeat tins tale, which b
romantic ok it m remarkable. It u ftullideiat to rendl rlie- foots that
first in German) Pmfr&sor Grek dend, seconded ait P^ri.i by M. Bumcof,
axid at Bonn by Profrssor lasted ; uitl,hdfpBndptl j fll these, Major,
now Sir Henry, Hawlimsmi, in Portia itself, utep by *trp P by patient
analysis aud happy intuition, were creating out of the qpbhtih that bad
punted gE L 3 ieriitions of iiiquiirns, Erst on dlplinbot, end then out of this
alphnl>et a language. Sueee-Bavely the riddles of the ^rent rock > i
BMtw, the cWflellml epigraphs of Peraopolis, and the inscription* of
Natahd-JUtUwn, were Unshed upon the world, and beyond
of doubt men could now read the handwriting and know of a minty
that they ware contemplating the handiwork of Burins. In the light
of these astorudiing discoveries, theory was compelled to shift its
ground, and, unable to question the origin, toreed with avidity to th«-
discussion of the purport of these more than ever interesting miu^
With this wrriaa it still shows no sign of becoming exhausted.

Simultaneously with thi-:-^ discoveries, the enlightened liberality
of the French Government was r^jmtmihlo for pirating to sdioUr*
and students the ineuns of presenting or verifying their
jjJSSJ 4 bbours by the publication of the splendid engravings sur
ceasivuiy of Tartar, anal of Fktidiia und Crete* Though,
viewed alongside of photographic repirsonLutionB, thmr work, and
particularly thai of Touier, £e <wu to be sometimes quite fanciful, and
frequently incorrect, yet too much praise cannot be bestowed upon the
painataking Industry with which tliew artbtotalled in a country where
those only who bmv* travelled iii U can estimate the cua&eleiu obstacle*

1 Srv*raJ of tiw«vantwath-»iitiny traveller* who COdtciiiplatiyS bewk-mafc mg
cm a iargv scale took artis-t* with ihv.m to Fenl* to midfft the fttiuMifl drawing*,
PSMrt delb Voile nod Kaempfer h .ih did #o Efmberi got Isli tthMtiwtJoMdrawn
floW-pQGnllj ill liomt-H with port bate a t result* Ln the com? of Pcncpolti- So did
Stray*,

i mkI diacouriigmeiitB ■ no t mn the impetus bs exaggerated which fchdr
InkKiurs gave in the study of Persian art and arclutecttih^ Jn later
rime*. tb? science of photography hm cornu to the aid of the Mtuilfni;
and although in the blinding glare and com^pcmding shadow of the
liuuflrn atmosphere* u initial results kve so fur only Ijeen attained, we
Iijivls nevertheless* much to b? grateful for in the phtw^ of Stnke* 1 and
of llumtafoy.' 2

And yet, for rL E fi our tdodfuti amplitude and certainty of kwblg^
to this driv we have no idea what wna the undiml Persian name that
T| h , IklJ i was used by Djirius and Iies suceessore for the city find tbf?
fcium* pallet^ that wyrr reared by them in the valley* of the MMim
and A Istnkhr and lVrsvj>oli* am tb 1 titles by which they are

k i low ri to an— the ft? rn i r r appli c** I to th« ci t y of the popu loot* tl i c 1 nitor
tu the p;i]iiee-plntfoiTn of the save reign. But. the name l^tnkhr <h*H
not so much as occur in » single * 1nn?k writer* and is bilirved to tar rif
lVhlevi origin : while the name Perhcpulta* which ha* bam uojis+ierated
in the usage ef the world, is never heard of before the time of
Alexander, -00 yi-curs after it* edifice had begun to be raised, and
then Only starts into oxhftouoe from the doubtful parentage of a pun. 3
These oro problems upon which the cuneiform iTiscriptiuJH have, so far,
thro to no light, ctud which it appenrt doubtful whether the ingenuity
i.f u future generation will able to wh'ft

The KrviirrU fabrics of the different Achicmcminn smareiguH will
i:ome under notice in the order of their occurrence. Perscpolis, though
with the ^Macedonian invasion it leaped into a European fame* had not

1 - vull.* 1H-H2 a £'irf flflfiflnr rfr fir live parts.

1 PersepoHs, if H nijLmLfie* l lie 4 city of the EVtvEimh/ should ml her have
KeWMprtu. Put the funas FcrBupulhE vrn?, in aM probftbftUj\ pro farted bcamne

the play nb Ihe wml t^fn(nf. the ‘lAiVu t t r uOf i, vi^ftifySttgtriadJon/

and uf the veiled niltuioll to the expfcjft Of Ateuodor, frora one of whctte itito-
rcrlani—probably Ciftorchu*—the name ox^gtanted. At the same time jt i?auM
itave teen no approximate translation pf the ongiiml Fenian name. What wa-
the Latier I ElUtory U itlenl on the point Ckiiu t rinbudi, Xenophan, and
utbuF writers frequently -S«ak of it n* m'pitiu, btifc It k disputed whether this
refer* merely to the city m to the conn! ry Porectnaliy, I Incline to think that the
name r.v^rjnwlnv or J^nytpjTirdie* which, as I Ikt* Mffe shown* warn the name
tmth of the royal unii of tho otty of Cyrus, find which is eiplallrGd as having
-iiftiiflefl Ibo 1 City nr caraimpmenf of the Perainna," or P if not theocnapocmd iv^rd,.
t hen 1 l^a.r^ii." by itself* nmy have been eniplqy^l by Dnritm to denote hb inter
fnjijtal* a little tower iln-Wn Ehi course of Ihe MLme river ; nnrl that tin i«r- ^ k.M,
liLUfin^ it Inlerjireif^i a* nhnro, may havi* ndupteit Hie punning tirm^tatien. Fens*-
! oli*, III the cuneiform inscription on the Propyl fra of Xeniw occur the werdj,
.ran P****, which gawilnson Emn-btf^ «lieMilrs or m ibij Pcmepolb, OppcrT
■itartF cel tn PcnuV %[itre] L in t'eraien/ anfl WE^bneh ■in >]i. Pemtcn/ 1
nocept Bitwlfawhs theory ttmi I lit- reference Ls not to the rountiy, bet to I he rity
nntl platform itself. Vide Jw mr*?/ fifth- H A. S., ™1. i. \ t 331.

SptSEPOUS, AMI OTHER MTSS

previously been much heunt of outside nf Ptisia. It- waii We winter
4 |HJUten it Susa, or in bis suniitier palace i»t fc-batann, that foreign
mubiis-sulorj cr refiijcw tmisll}" found the (jrrut King* I<>
f^ST i’ersepclis, which boaated a middle temperature, he appear
iuui Pun*- on |y to juivo iMUin- nt springtime, to receive the firet-frnit
offerings of Jm people, tire reports of bis officers, end the
tribute «f his hobjeots. The great pUvtfonu, with its pslnem wul
hulls, was a place of ceremonial resort rather than of habitant occu-
]xklion ; but its proximity to the PaKiTgad* of Cyrus, ami its own
associations, rendered it a site of peculiar importance. There its
kings sat in state' there they worshipped at the iitv iilnn of 'he
Mugian faith ; there, according to Berdan tradition, llariua lutd «p tlie
Avert a, written in gold and silver letters upon 12,000 lasm-d ox-hide* ;
nntl there six of the Acbn'inenian mouftrichs wen- laid to rest. But
while the pint form was devoted to the pomp and tlie residence of the
sovereign, around it, and fur over the adjoining plain* must have
stretched the city of die slmpkocpert, the middle anil lower classes, iw<
the artisans ; utid in the ruin* on the Polvur, generally denoted latakhr,
that will presently be ■!«- ribed, are to In- trend the prolahle retire of

ita shrunken greatness. With the invasion of Alexander ami t . tan

ling ration of one or more of the pakw* by his command an event
which will ho noticed later on—Prrsepolia drop* suddenly into the
luickgreund : iU mum' all but vanishes from existence ; uml vilnn.
after the Wank interval of Seloucid domination (during ihr over¬
throw of which it retained sufficient importance to hr plunderedI by
Antiuchus Epiphancs in i«4 B.C. 1 ) U reappear- under the Parthian
dynasty, the city, which in 200 a.i>, was lire seat of a Iwal governor,
ha« changed its title, mid is known ns Istakhr. 1 Here, uiuid the gen cm I
decline of the national fiuth, the Zomaatrihii fire-altars burned uii-
dostngly; ami here stood the temple of the goddess Aiududh, one

1 Pf-raiun k'L^nd jHtfiibti* foundation to JMfrkhr,, *nn of the fop ci- U
Kniau.are. Urn 1-Uklir. or MnkUr. is said t« be a l^k-v «-,.l ^miyms l-'-l
i# reft-rvoir, wherein an ailuflion i* wJu|?ht to the rAiuou*. tank* tl«l nn- U.I..
^trusted on urn the three minion* painted hill* ibal Aw from ihareum- of .-
Mcndasht plain hr iho Aaail-wl-Dowleb. a ruler of the AU-Iiuyah dynasty 1

tenth «nt«ry AAk But the nan* ie found lu ertrtedWMUtafcfl •*••«■**
M-ere made, und unle*« wo are to assume that the ruarnriitra reirtul hni* 1™«*
ihr days. were tinsnrfcj tmt^r^od mmSOtlUClal Ji “-

pbduM prefer io km* ths tohutimi iDinolve4 p vd to ttat inyojixli.^

niiue ttuijr tfterwtftLl Imvo b«& nduplod lo ft !«>l itol-■Tpwlalli.n. The h-,V
lii-torlcnl account nf btahhr 1- iluit of UuMdey (ZV-wfi, »ol- ‘L pp, .KH-tlly
• Anahtta, Aualililh, or TaKUa. the Anaiib of iW ureelw, tl>e at -*

lemplu tu whom nt Ewgaw l have Steady uoticcd in vul. i. jk 51, ™ »***• «
Wlu, from the end uf the fifth century K.C, plnjed a pari m the odidfll re»K" ,n

PERSIA

of whose prlost*, named Hassnft, tbe father ef Babels or Fbpuk,
w£ii tba gnmdfn-fclkfir of that ArUxontt^ or Ardeshir wlm m 226 a.d.
overthrew the Parthian yokc T nu.il founded the dynasty t hat still bears
hi* grandeirea Mine. In the revival of religion and of national spirit
that followed, Iatokhr became agaiii tin- ceremonial capital of the
empire: and although Ardefibir movi-d lijjp own residence to tlur or
Jur* i l ml his soo-v.^-m- thrill t*> Ctettphon, and S^Jencin, mid Shapin',
and Dait&gfrd* yet at lalakhr reiiintticd the treasury find tire-altar of
the royal house, and here the head® *if com] acred kings wort! hong op,
Ir.-s (KkpuJatiiti h Maid to have lieen seriously diiiiiuishnl by Shapur II. t
who transported twelve thou=*:iiu!ta families i doubt le-^ an exaggeration} to
Nisihis. When the Arabs invaded Persia iii G3D a. o,, lALiklif was one
uf the plaees that at Lirni successfully reflated the assaults «if Omar.
Five yt*arfl later it yielded, hut its population I■ living iitpun risen in
revolt in 64* and stain the Arab govern,or, it wm forcibly reduced. In
the same century its citadel, on the summit of one of the curious
isolated rocks that have been mentioned, was built by the Khalit
Monviynln In the tenth century it is alluded to by three Arab
geographers : by Maftidt, who saw there a hook containing the
!>ortraits a ml history Of nil the So&sanJnfi kings; by out? qf it r own
natives, Abu Nude eM^takhri, who duscribed it its 4 a city of middle
aizv T with n strong citadel, it Nut n tnib in extent 1 : as id. by Mukadr**!^
who specially men tinned it* m^ua, At the do&c of the same century
it i* samI to have been destroyed in itfnrequpuoe cjf frequent rebejUaDs
under the Sara?’nn-ed-1 ®>wleli, of the Al i Buyah dynasty ; hut it muni
have experienced a complete revival, if any chinos is to be attached
to the testimony of Hamrinllrdh, who in the fourteenth century rvturaod
its (UmndoDl a* fourteen /orsiMt by ten, the platform of Persapolis
included, embracing, no doubt, in Chi* generous estimate the whole of
the more or less peopled plain from tike Achiriiienian city on the
t’olvar, to the modifevil citadel of Istakbr on the pointed hill, The
latter was made a state'prison by the Atabegg of Faro, arid was mi
used os Lite a* !F»76 A.U, 1 Iii 1651 it was found by P. della Valle in
mins. Iff other remains limn tho&e of the platform and tombs of
Pers&polia, ami the sepulchres of Nokili-i-Rustam, the seventy nth and
i-kghteentJi eentur)- travellers do not say ranch, nnd it has been reserved
fur the explorers of mure modem times to bring tu light such relics as
still cxihit of the city, whatever its name may have Wn r that mml
have skeltered the vast population ever bimlrig round the courts of

of IVrata flomi'wSial similar la tM l- PhUEldclan Asiatic, the Uahjtoni&fi Mjlitta,
ih r Arabian A Sit La, nnd Hie Hellmh Aphrodite. According to Mutamh, status
[" her *ere put up Sn All the gfu-it cities of Elia empire. £|n? i* puppo^eil t« have
bmo of Armenian or rjppailtciau origin Tl ■ fttpnUr translation of her hxm
I nto Artemiy or Bin an. appears Iq pjf to be income!. i SliEief Knmch.

PfillSETOUS. AM* OTUFfl I’.VIN*

ISIS

Darin* und Xerse*, ami tW, under n of dynasties, wua the

th^-relical metropoli* of Iran,

Tiie tnirvi^iiig ruins, to which tnavdiur* Huy* given thtf n&ou h ot
Iniuklir, fall into two group.-—those on I In* buito “I th» l’olvar.a little
i itumn'f before it emerges into tho plnin of Mervdaeht between Perse*
Iv.feNf poll* and Ifshali-i-Rustam, and tbcmJ of lire hiII-fortress or
ni'mpolis l^forealhidrd to. The former occupy a spare of rising ground,
Ton ml v hicli the rivi-r flows in a loop, a slight distance to the east of the
th ifHir khaiirh of Pureh- Travel!**™ hnv,* sought to ree.tgi.is* in tho
rrnmiiia a palace, a temple, mul a fort ; hut it appears to ® to bo
doubtful liow far this particularization Cun be sustained, 1 Wliat u
certain is, that the reins, such as they are, are those of an Achic-
m, rd.tr city contemporary with the neighbouring structures of
iWaopolis, and posterior to tho edifices of Pnwwgndm. Material, style,
iimi treatment are closely analogous m the building upon the [clIbcc-
platform, although the disposition at Intakhr is different, and even
obscure- Close to the mountain, ou the southern side, arc the remains
of a great gateway, built of block* of limestone, which WB doubtless
the main eastern entrance to the city. Tt consists of two passages in
ti„- centre for animals ami caravans, and of two ■dde-alleyu for foot-
liri v-i'iigcrrf, the stone piers that separate them lining still i« **'«■ A
lit,I,. t/i the north of this are the mu.dns of what is thought to haw
l»..-a a palace, consisting of the bases and fragment* of the shafts of
eight pi I lars, of to vend door ■cases and niches, and af a detached, dork grey
fluted celoinii, 25 feet high, and nearly H feet to diameter, with »
,\iMh\v ball htefrd capita L similar to th™ that rtittitUD at PerH’ptplti
and have been found at Susa. Tim survival of this column provides a
dm: io, and H itself explained by, an interesting passage already
alluded to in Mukodessi, where that writer says

Vhe tirincipnl m^oc of Isiafcfcr Is situated bralflo the huaim. It It tiuiii in
th,. manner of ihv most ba.utifal mowiara of 8yru.; it ha* round columns. ITpoe
the top ot rach column Is s cow. It fa raid formerly to hare been a Oic-tomi**.
The tmimii snrfoftwl it »Q (Jaree aUIc# T

This was the condition in which the place wav soon in the tenth
v. ntury ; rind it can leave no doubt in „nr minds tlinl the Ach amcnina
i-'ructure bad been converted by the Moslems into a mosque,* Kcr

1 The writers wt» havu ttflwUwil ar illnstttiod ItaU (l-c- AchnrnrmUiu
J-Ukhn aim; J. I 1 , Marie* (180U)* J^rrt fwnug. p. 1U, Sir H. K. I'urter <1SIS> P
TrvreU. tdL L p, 6 p 3 ; C. J. Rich (Uf I>e Jwmf to Ttasiar, yol. It

pU, 13", .133; FUmftn and Carte, toI. it pR and test ; R- R, Uiimlriif

(I 5 S 1 K T™ Yeari JV<*rW T Vo!, iL; Stoke, vet It\ ^- 1 S&-&.

A fnntaatic d*U€?ripticm, air! ft htllL thO w ludiOTUMiltwftraliOli, <tf tfcw mraque
Is Kirpt^ic ICT", by John stray* the ChitallffiWU who, in All probability, aavor
paw iiftl alt Iffl c-iiU* it rise Rijal Hr-pnldJirt, nlH f ZJ* t>int ttiF bofio* ®t Non h,
SlMira. iiain, a&d Japl^t ffErt- prwrvcdi ih«-™ ( P-

HlUSlA

ISIS

Porter and ullicr modern traveller* men 1 3 on the locikl mime a- being*
tin? Harem of Jinnsluii. On the northern ride ¥ near the mor, the
remain* are enconjfuuKod by the ruins of 11 wall of irrvicpjlar out fine,
with ttie trace of ^micin^br IrfkBtmM on one side! unci of a ditch onco
tilled from the PoJvfir. This wall m prnbfcbly nf much later dale than
llie original nitjp ami may have been added in MohannEtriun time*.
Kill'll are the sole ^surviving rrlieis of wllllt W&S llu dollbt tile popiilinjFj
and mercantile fjtinrter of tlie eifcy of Parian Excavations in the
mounds and piles of debris might produce more satisfactory result*.

To el p*ri>orii filiimlirjn Oil tin 1 platform of FrrnOpolla, and looking
over the plain of Merfdasht, the most coinspleimu* object* in the
j^b bindficapa are three insulated mdey bluffs* rising abruptly

Gumbod*n ^ t „ diiiUllfcen ..f from seven to eiglit mlilitt to the liorth-u.-et.
Their lower parts consist of *toep glope*. above which n precipitous scarp
shoots into the air, terminating in a sharp and jagged summit. Thc&HiiLI*
are known jlh Keh (iainhibn, or the Three Dohihs ; and their names
have l^n returned by 11 modal bh in the fourteenth rtmtuiyns fetokhr,
tihekesbeh, elile! Sungwan ; and in the present century by FVanor u_s
Lstnkhr, Hheku&teh, and Slmirgan : by Hi hi dug as Making Shnlm-k,
and Kumlunr.; nod by Khnrk eia Uhiht and llhilnn. Xoliirke, wlm i*
oor latest reference, that the middlemost, width contained the

media-ml citadel of Istakhr and the tanks, lias m>w lost its old name,
and Eh called Mian Kjij^li t or Middle Port. It lias been ascended mid
describ'd Sky M offer, De Bode, and, Flandin, the Last named of w hum
calh^l it Kafeb i-Korb, or Fort of the (Jypre.-i*, Ele gives a plan of the
three tanks or raservcurs bcftm> ullnded to jus dating frmii the tenth
century. 1 Advantage was taken i n ibeir mtislruci iori of natural hollow
or rifts in the mountain 1 ami they accordingly remind us of tho
colobrated Tanks if Aden- Upon the same rock are remjutt^ #<f ,l
gateway, and of the walls and towers of the ancient castle; iti mi tar
mins being visible u]wu the adjacent rock of -Shall rek.* Jin summit
is 1,200 feet above the plain, 1 imagine that the entire space between
the Hindi.revnt nntl Acluemenhixi I slakin' imtst % at one time or another,
have been mom or pimpled by outskirts nr suburbs, all hearing the
KjaJiio name. A city of the populace, which, as a rule in the Ea^t,
Gdufllfete nf no more limn mud end watt Soil butt* ju. very easily wij w *d
out of earifitenee*

I now return to the cliff-wall of the llusein Kuh. and to the * ulp-
Lured faction of it, nearly yards in length, ilmt pre@unt« K abov^
the ehiselted talilets of the Kohsanbm king^, the miignilii eut r«'k-

L KlandSTi iinrl Coftfl, tel. ii. ph Cif.

1 FcTgaw»tii*, themfore,. Wttmg wE jhl>u hr wit * (j.. #\) L Su tmec of bniji!Lug> t I
bL-JifTF, exLsf* HJKUl flm 1

FEltSETGLlS, AMI OTIlKlt Lil INS

sepulchres of their greater predecessors. These ftra four m ntunhor, and
with thu ^Cejitiun of tbo secoctd from the cost, which is tlw tomb of
4 Uurius son of Hystospeff* their general features* both hlmr-

, ' i ,. clji tumlansl decorative, are mi identkad thaL rirm? rje&eriptbn will
sliV-V iufflcMf for them ulL 1 The Husrin Kub, wHicU nt it* higiicst
isiji-t-im | MI ]| L t haLs attained an elevation of 800 feet alsove the plain,
si 1 i kh tovurdt iU western extremity to a height of frani 200 to I Ml)
fiHjt* and dually even lesri; and in its sheer front tu one half ** two-
thirds of tin* total height* und facing the valley wm* hewn hy ih* r
ii him nt.- i.if the Great King the hollow rt>ek-vaults that were Lu coilIaiii
the royal oorpac*. Outwardly, these present the appearance of a
gigantic cross, of somewhat min ted dimensions* which h eut to a
greater or [c$a depths according to the slope of Lhe cliff, in the rock,
Each limb of the crews m the same in height, vise. 24 feet, or a total
height of 72 feet j hut whereas the upper end lower segments ara Xt[,
feet in breadth, I he cent ral «r transverse segment lh Mi foet from mil
to end. The Im-pMoih of the lowcmowt cutting h its a rule from 2-1 to
-to feel above the sqtfaci' of the ground, Aml is all but inacavdbh u*
the climber, who requires lo hr hauled up thither, and &G3L more to the
jHnird in the trwQ*v£rg4 limb. hy the aid of n rope. Ji by these
means, 4 LB I hhiitl show, E hat the my it! uor|jw.\* were urit^i nally drawn
up; a ml thnE thu timneroua travellers who in this century hum
i'XiUDLDBtt the mteriura of the tomb» have ireen enabled to s

their object.

Externally) the to rubs present the fallowing Features* Urn lowest
segment of the cromt is a hare cutting, h to ® feet, deep nt th* bn*A,
KiUrn*i vertical at the hack* and absolutely unadorned. Next come*
ruittTF. t|i£ main or traiusverwe Limb, w hich cfHiiikins the rutnincv to
the sepulchre. This takes the shape of a reproduction in rock-carving
of the facade of an .A elm-men hi n polio* Four wmbdetJivhisJ hull-
headed columns rise train a platform, formed by the deeply micaied
Ineisimi intix the idiff, and support a utEmaijvr entablature, adore Ltd with
on islcgnrsl moulding or cornice. Betwiten the two central columns m
iIjk 1 doorway framed in u case, the decorative treatment of the upper
or jii-ojL irting part uf which is an dnmtsUlmbh 1 loam from Egy pt, Tim
door is divide! outwardly into four eoinpirtineiite, the three uppermost
of which were never pierced, but are of the solid rack. The lowest
efiruparlniLUit* atamt four feet in height* was piitreed for tin) entrance,
hut was originally closed by a stono Mock hung upon n pivot, 'HiLs
hftn in every instance now disappeared, and tile si|i^rtnm which has
in some Liksr- iEU0ered violmit mutilation, yaw™ blackly in the facade,,

1 l’r-r Dlutntkw^r^ Toxifir h red. ii. pL 1 m Jt*; Flaodib and CodAff, roh Iv.
pb- IUU-7^; St-iJur, vilL ii. pla, UH5, 107, IIS.

12*

PERSIA

1 1 js t however. upfrn the upper Limb of the that the skill uf the

.sculptor was mainly lavished, and that the suhiJiii character of the
entire monument ii expTfs-M^d The entablature already spoken of
siutniltf a curious platform or throng consisting of twu stages, each
of which h upheld by fourteen figures (Le, twenty-eight in the two
superimpoeed rows)* with both anus uplifted to sustain the weight
abovfttbeir farads 1 figure wiar different garbs nod represent

differing nationalities. The bides or corner [kj*(a of (ho terrace, whfctl
Li doubtless n copy of the platform that supported the royal throne,
jin> furiously moulded and carved, mid urainate in griftns 1 er bulk 1
lipids at the top, I’pon its summit appear two objects. On the ieft
hand aide Li it small Anw or platform uF three receding ateps* upon
which glands the king, seven feet in riatliFC, chid in the royal robe and
t Liim. holding in hh loft Imnri a bow t which fuste upon the ground,
while his right hand hs uplifted with a gesture of oath or adoration
towards an object tlmt floats in the air overhead. Thin we now know
from the inscriptions io l?e the image of the god Ahuramasd* or
< tnnii&d i a symbolism that La directly borrowod from the representa¬
tion of the god Assur in Assyrian sculptures. Tiie deity is depicted
a* u small figure, with the upper part of a umii T and with hair and
Ihviildreas similar to those of ttm king, but with the lower part of hi*
Imdy terminating in plumes. A disc cncirvleii his wntat, long streamer*
float behind him, mid he is upljorne in space by outspread horizontal,
wings. Ite faces the king mid Sift* one hand in Attitude of benedic^
tioti ; in the other hn holds n ring, 2 Behind the god is sculped in
relief the second object upon the platform, vie. a tire-altar, upon which
the undying flame is depicted in the form of a mao of tire. In the
right-hand comer above., the disc of the «un hangs in the sky. It
should be added that nn either side of the terraced platform* and iu
tlm returning angles of the roek, arc chbdkl a triple vertical row of
figure^ singly, or in pairs, which, according ns they ore armed m tin-
Aimed, represent the 3 sodygmftttl* nr the attendants of the .sovereign.

The interior arrangement diflbrfi slightly in each ruse, as will

1 Th& fundful tim: Iu which tlii* plat funis ha? been pot m argument by Parguje
s-L>ti will Ik? noted Inter

: Very quaint turn ml* the dewjrlptlnn of these flcmlpiure* given by frarbftrti* t ha
Y«icthin fc ftnrr hundred jtara ago: ‘Them I* ona fmog?, llh ante that ikt w-a

f.-jsil'k' to Uod the Father Jq & HTCto, why in eElhcr hoiarle hohktli n ^Jobe,
under wham air Other little ynutget, tn*d befoft? hym the image nf i mao tranyng
on ntt W-hc, winch they sal o wfls the If guru of Snlumun. 13 a-i.Et'r Ihrtn jirr many
other ynm^i, which pm? me lu rtuteyzu] those tlu*L lie above. Amongvsl whom
there liobo that Ktmctb to ImPf :l Pup* » mritr ou In? hedde. balding up hti
lifliidc open as though ha menl to lih'Mc nil tlut an under him, lid in they
looking ir-warihs hytfl ^CCftir fl]*o to for lild bliflneiig ‘ (Trat'rU in TjMiki (rad
/Ml, Hakluvl Society>

PERSEPOLIS, ANli DTHEH BP INS

lai*

] !■ ■ i-JMitly be pointed out, uncording to tlii? design of the author, or the
number of ded whom the sepulchre was expected to ftgcnmmmlate-
^ t r The structural difpoeitkm i*, however, in al] essentia] a the
-i -mop,. name. Crouching to pa*& through the low doorway, I Iso
visitor* who lias probably bnn hauled up by his guide*
iii- Ly the neighbouring villagers to the btd Oi the portico, enters Eirst
a -ort of vnetJbule t usually flat-roofed* but iei same a rolled, and

hewn out of the solid roch< Behind tin* aiid opening from it is a aeries
of containing deep excavations, originally covered with stolid

lid*, for the reception of iJie royal dead. The maxitnuiu, number of
ilir4' fjflfodpliJigij in any one of the Ache? in Oman tombs, Li nine. Tire
trtvitics have in eveiy M been rifled in&ny hundred year? ago* ixnd
tire curiosity of the explorer dm expect no ajioiU The interiors are
ipi iL’k and begrimed* and redolent, tike the Egyptian mek-tonab^, with
lio odour and fluttering of h«ls.

The poeulkrities of r^oh rt>yal tOjniJdins where they eacUt, may Ijc
^ [lamtelj noticed, Tim first areftStemmtMst ha? a different orientation
y nmi (mm any of ite fofl*w> at Kakdi i-Hustam, Situated in a
1 ib deep natural bay of the ruck, it face*, not south, but west,

and dtd not accordingly, when 1 &aw it. admit of photographic
ihdincritiun. The angle id the elifi is lion- so extremely abrupt„ that
not oven the himbln--fudiwl native* tun dumber up in order to haul the
traveller up after them T and I can find no record of the interior having

bo visited bv EdnpwiL It could only Inj attuumd by snenm of
bulliera or a scaffolding. The iimcce^ibility of this tomb, and its
j i otceliun from the blinding ghu* of the midday ^un, havn enabled its
xiulptures to return a greater ertapiu-fia or outline than is the eas*-
with any of the others ; nud one might well believe that the artificer 1 ?
ehi^d had only yesterday !»een laid down.

Next in order conic? the meet interesting of all the sepulchre*
inn - 'much as the unravelled mystery of the cuneiform alphabet reve^i&
T.^uboC to us that it hid the body of the greuiest of Forman kings,
I >±vto tlarius sen of Hystnwpcs. 1 This we h-arn from Use crowded
Jin-n id arrow iuNidt-ii inscriptions in the three tongue? -Persian*
Susi&n* and Assyrian—that fill the space between the central column!
ui the portico, and part of the upjw r surface of rock behind the king-
Th» s 1 writing on the wall * has suffered a good deal in the lapse of time,
particularly so the Persian text. Yet from it we ascertain without doubt
that it bt Darius who speaks, To Omani he gives honour] his own

l iar lhi? Iamb, riifr Texior, rob 11. pi. Hamlin UtH Goste* no), i*.

!i;« I 7 I-K; Stolxr + tol. ii. pL 10*. Fur the inscription, trdr l?t«Ue> toL ii.
pi* lOO-ll,

: Tb-n? ue uf thin muriptiun tuning k'it ptekwl ml an bliH^unsOf

tl.i* few cettnin relics of colour on lbs? itnar n-iiJpturc* of ( he Aelin-mtnLnnj.

in : 6**1 a

I JO

title* unil geuoali lie 1 stw furtli ; the provim.^ei of his u>i|jlity empire,
nnd tbo pcxjjjk- who jin li I him tribute^ Im unrull*. 1 Dotibtfieis therefore
the figures, of differing gnurb and typo, who ttusbuii the royal platform,
represe nt the wideatrewii luitionnlitie* that acknowledged him king,
hileI King of kings. Xay, this Inis recently bee» proved ; for in I&Sn f
31M. Babin ami Huumy, tn-« of tins colkbomtoiirH of >L Pieutafny,
having amended hv moan* or n ^«foidb|, found the names of the
various snt rapier mtunlly pngnrd beneath the feet of some of tiu-
nuppurtenL The interior of tin? tomb of Darius has bean visits] by
euveml travellers in this eaninfj; 1 hut Ker Porter* I think, wa- thv
first who identified it os the sepulchre of the syn of Uyataspea, Imudg,

foilB or PAEIIA

tho disposition oF the funttnJ clminbt-r differs from that of anv other :
for t hm are mcc?^ and cavities mr n.-, many a* 111110 thnN 1

of which however* opposite the #11 trance, deatly appertain to Um uri
gin at plan, while a Intend extension to tin* left to admit of a Lx more
I'citfm* in 11st have been eiib*e*pnnitiy hollowed ouL* A pathetic interest

1 Fur tran*]Aliena nf thU lnacrJ|rticn h Wrfr 8Lr H. kaw Itasca* JvutmsI rf *kt*
If, A , vot s. pp* /> /V -uplr H la Langur *h* Mrda. jjp. ;Hil 11 ■

■ nd WsUWch h Pie .1 rknmtAiiiiHiu k r-r/Un^ j>ji. 7S-SL

1 The carlLer fixp£cf*ns*m fc h rf P, della Valle, Cliudla, Le Bran,and Fryer.stern
with one socorit to have yii-Mail iinbelrTearvnhdtuh&ve ahLrtal tho oxperSmmc.

J Black, bowwwflr t Wi» mat* Mr** I y oIiIItIwii of tlio funeral requhrmf n|» <if rn>nl
fatal] h* *thm hi? «ald : * Opening buck urn three re^e^si.^, each of which wn* the
resting-place of throe ktagjC Haw dkl lie make Up kb Lain nf monarch* T

PERSEP0LI8, A NI > IITHKK Bt*lXS

141

attache* Lo iJitt gloomy rock ■ tfjiu 11 1 ii|xir[ from the |rtTM nudity of the
illustrious dead for wknn it wis hewn* in the historical fact that for
.Hiivmi years nfior 3t lh demise it. prondd n ce]] for thr favourite
eunuch rtf Daring who GOotii not be persuaded to forsake his muter*
remains. Perhaps evon more interesting is the recollectimi of the
tragedy th at accompanied lu execution, and that pi Litres itself before
our fSjrs nji we stand below* For hem ii was that the father run!
mother of the king, Imring gipressed a wish ti* see the progress of the
work, arid forty of the Magi having Ismni ordered by Darius to wind
them up by means p»f rapes the eltimsy priest*, frightened it ie &aid
by the sadden uppeaimtee of seme serpents, let go x and the unhappy

Till ILL* A3TJ1 FOinmi aOVAL TOltlui

couple were dashed to the ground and killed The forty culprits* for
nil their sanctity, paid the penalty with their lives 1

The sculptured work of the third tomb is remarkable
11reservation. Nothing at Perec pal is exceeds the fresh
, ft ( 3 of the 'hull-bonded capitals of the portico column
frwik comer-posts of the terraced throne. On the other Imoti, me
fuende of the fourth toinb in more blurred and spoiled thnn
that of any other. The capitals an- quite defaced ; so is the cornice
aboi l? the doorway ; anti so am the supporters of the platform. This
tomb has I wen mors frequently explored than its fellow^ beamt of its
greater Mccwsibility from below < Captain Futherliind, Sir W, Ouseloy*

1 t't.cai&a, Peraio*, § 19,

rBRftiA

Colonel IV A Td\\ Sir Uol^ri Ker Porter, flarcm de Ikwlo, Floadin, und
Mounaej, dicing among tlie European visitors who have ascendod to it
in this century It Iuub Lit ran arched recesses tit the back* each
containing a cavity, tin? stone dabs that formerly covered which have
either been displaced or broken. None of the sepulchres* with the
exception of that of Darius, which is doubtless the oldest,, have tuiy
inscriptions*, or present any clue t“ their idcntihcalhm, No very great
stretch of fancy p however is required to bdiers that they were in uH
probability canal rudr'd by liia three h accessors, Xontit^ Artoxerxe® L r
Find Darius IT. Win n they were rifled ii ia impossible to tell.

Of ail the Achmmeman rKru1ptun& T these on the roynl Unuba alone
have a purely religious character, At IViraepolis, the king walk* into
g_^ an the palace or liiuiienrc-knJl, Of ail* in staid to receive the
protMjp* homage of Li* subjects ; nt Ibsitun ho triumphs over the
rebels against In* throne. In lioth rases lie makes acknowledgment to
the divine power. But here he Ls depicted *b engage 1 hi the mnOcial
oci^ a monarchp but a MawWn, the foni of mankind* hut the servant,
of the deity. There h something alike in the selection of the sepul¬
chral site, lit the modi? of Interment, and in the external decoration of
the tomb* that in in keeping with the stately pretension* of the
Achri-menian monarchy, and thiit at the distance of yean? sounds
in our ears no faint echo «f the majesty of the lireut King. Am nog
the royal orpnJehns that 1 lmv<> wen in many parts of the world, few
of the fabrics reared by mail, and none of tim&o in which nature Ls
made to play the principal part, ore more irapnwdve than these, A
comparison naturally auggoit® itself with the royal rock-fonibs of
Egyptian Thebe* ; ' In: more so m in rny opinion the idea of the
sepulchral excavations of Nnksk-t-Bti§Utvi and PorsepoZia must have
been directly borrowed from the valley of the Nile. The body of Cyru*
was laid, ns we have seen, in a raised mausoleum ; w here and bow
CamhyscA was interred we do not positively know l 1 but Dari as*
pn lilting by live experience of the Egyptian campaign of his pre¬
decessors, and inspired with recollections, if not actually equipped with
workmen, from the Nile, was: content w ith no meaner routing-plm .’
lluui one which, while providing for the inviolability of his remains
by the perfla ©f aeV! -s should yet display to the world thu imperish¬
able record of his grandeur. Herein lies at once the analogy and the
difference. The rulers of both empires are interred wkh vast toil anti
expense in the lmCTowed heart of the mountain, where their laxjira
should Ikj free from touch or pollution. But, whereo* the Egyptian
theology prcfierilne^ the uttermost concealment of the mummy, and

* Ort*k* *ayi bfe toffy ™ taken back h Tlfym, on amMgunq* phrase ap-m
which T luiTfl [ircviait>l> cviumentcfl.

rftnsEKiuft an f* oTiiri: umm

MDHH|tiCTsU^ ordains an architectural elaboration which is cmi lined to
the interior of the sepulchre* And wad intended never again to meet
tlii- hnHkA.ii eye, the ^orDi^trinh can oil bhtftouK forth to Vi? men the
pmomMty ami iho splendour of the illustrious departed* It a direct
Egyptian prototype is to lie flight, it will Ihj found rather m the rewk-
tomk that overlook llie Nile from the cliffs of Bent Htksin t than in thf-
t uEimdlod vaults oF the Valley of the Tombs of the Kinga,

But, at thin point* the qQ&rtiaii may njitunilly arise, flow mine
it that monarch*. pmfesring the faith of Zoroaster, should have *nnc-
tioned not] Adopted a mode of sepulture so little in keeping
With the welhknown veto imposed by that, creed upon the
Lriiun r j.tu<ii- of the dead f Tu this interesting question let

ino attempt to give an answer. In the Tint place we must hear in
mind that the A vesta, 1 ns we know it, dates from no tuore remote
period than the reign of the lirst Soasanmn monarch, ArdttthSr
l'ali-kan {A.D. 40) ; and that the strict application uf the canon

agaiirst sepulture either hy cremation or interment** ms a desecration
of the primal and semi-divine clementB of nature, was only then
systematically oufomd. In the time of Darius the Avestan doctrines
had not grimed the absolute way that they did in later days ; aod
wore prulaibly eonfinEwh ns regards strict ohscrvuTtce, to the Kaccrdotal
caste oF the Magi. Tn any case the monarch who had himself over¬
thrown the political efioaplnwy of that priest hood* felt himself bound by
iks such rigid inhibit ion. Cremation, oh Herodotus tells us, 3 forbidden

a* «sn iriKnlt to the divinity ; and the Persians were horrified when
Gimbysps burned the body of the Egyptian Anmsis, Exposure to
birds of prey upon tht&kmn.* or platforms was common ; but the
skeleton so denuded was, in the cane of the ordinary 1 people, coated
with wtkx su as to prevont ddlwo^ and was then interred 1 What
this form of burial was to hie hubjcela, the rock-Mpulehre became to
the sovereign ; uud hence it Lj that we find tins seeming violation of
the creed of Orimixd pf^trutoi under the vary shadow and ofligy of
his inking

uppoaiiotho ihinl and fourth royal tombs of Nnhab-i-Ttusfcaiu* the
ground rises id the form of a slight and mninly artificial elevation ; and

1 ZcDcl-AveAtn. ibc ]K>paTar liile utarted a ectitury aijn by AaqueUI Uupcrnm,
b, mictlj fpsaUng,a mlflaocLH'*. Aveala—Lfi. Las’ or flevclgfidn (llkrlhc cognate
word Vtdm* from the toot rid* to knowj-is ihc name of the crtfilnal icripiura of
tbe oth&I of ituresuiicr. Send (from mat out, to know) pigniflc* [xiterpreiaticm..
or Commentary, odd la the comj^miirely taie body ®F religion*ejrpoaitipa, writers

in Fchlevi, an4 "luting from the .MfiJsnnLaja epnc-lt.

1 A cl ip*e 'laiflvcr might bo hilled by any paMUr-by Doras! of the dead wi*
in Ineijiabb tinnir. ^tu SfeiftceH, the minister of Kobfld, wan put to death fur
ItlL# oftenCc (PfiOTpiftA, Ik &tU fVrr. i. II),

1 Lib. lii. c. 1A.

’ ibid. Lib, L c. 110.

144

PKILSLY

mi tin! sumuiic of tin 1 hillock l; I iuh reared* 4H1U E fin/in^ the fourth or
weslemiurnt sepulchre, rises a square building of jw^ulicir shape jithI
^ (| ^ disputed object* to which European tradition lias T for no

Vl K . brtter nramvu than that the Zaroutrions were whnt in termed
t^inp! 1 tire-worshipper?, and that the interior »f this utructure is

blackened with assigned throughout this century the ch^igiui-

t.iiiji of ji fire tempi'- 1 Ky the natives it appears to Inline been called
at didbmnt times K Omni- K lianeh NakkaraKhmieti, Le. Drum
House, sitill Knabah-i-^rdusht, ur San *tuary of the former

Tl'JID ? )ll^’ALLtI» tTM.T!;KPr.R) AT FAKflll-|-J[UijTAN

mm t-hnsp stupid UimdeiH of nomenclature to which the Persian
p jLSiiiit usnchh-teiL the 3 utter a repetition of the Ufrjre-^uotrd tradition
The building ewisi* of a square tower, 2$l fm in each direction
built of ml id block* of white limestone. that might almost be mistaken
for marbie^io u height of 35J tart from the real hose, which i» com
below tin- riL -ijxlmg nmuntl, \mt which was partially laid Imre
Ivy the wnvati* mis. some fifteen years wgo T of the Into Motcrmothed
Hawick, w hen Uoveraior-Germrul of Furs. Three of k> aide* are blank,

1 rbimtfcB am! Co^voi iv- pL iP + i f ri.pl. IIP; tlknlafOT, pi. t,

|ib i% &

FEBSEFOUfl* ANI» OTHER RUINS

145

hut jin> relieved by messed winJow-cjuM^ r>r niches* into wliich an?
inserted blnck Ikisaltiv slabs, six in number, the lowest pair oblong* UiC?
middle pair £t|iiaxc t the uppurmoat pair square but of smaller dimen-
ricmA, immediately below a denticulated cormco which runs round the
^uumiit, The Hurfae-e is further pitted with n number of peculiar but
uniform incisions 1 foot 4 in, Jong,. -H in, brood* nud J!. in. deep, 1
Both of these form?* of urmmm citation were probably introduced with a
decorative object. Hie fourth side, facing the royal sepulchre in the
clitic is that by which access was and is gained into the interior. It
contains a doorway, nix feet in height* by live in width* which was
originUy at a height of ai?£toon fcct T hut ia now only two-thirds of that
distance above the ground* and to which access was formerly gained
by a Hight of stejvs. This omdttots into the interior* which consist of
n single chamber, twelve feet square (the walls an- cLmsE-quently nearly six
feet thick) and eighteen feet high. The floor consist--* of sevifrel .da Ik uf
stone, and the flat cefflug of two huge blocks. Externally, however,
tlte surface of the roof is slightly convex, anil is composed of four slabs,
one of which was portly displaced by ufl earthquake earlier in the
century- Below the chamber the substructure of the tower is solid ;
vw of the surface stones having at one dine been torn away pre¬
sumably in order to expose wlrnt lay behind. The doorway wcls evi¬
dently once closed by it stone block hung upun pivots*, the groove for
which fli c still vbiblc ; while M. l>ieulufoy m:ule the discovery that in
the floor wan* an Birnngciiieot or slide, by which, with the aid *.f rollers,
a heavy weight could be dragged into tin- interior. These are the mini
visible features nf the edifice. That it is not Unique has been shown
in the preceding chapter* where I have described the remain-* of the
so-called Zindnii at Pasargatbr, w hich wa* an almost ldcotirat strut:-
ture. A third and similar lower, of lower rlovadoti and inferior
dinumrion^ kIeo exists near Nuubiuidajao* at the foot of the IvuliPird-
Mard, eleven miles lo the southrW** of Fasa_*

1 Ker Porter ( Tnirel*. tot, L p S43> by an MtcaerU nmtf inversion, d«crtbe*
these tci * HJii4i.ll blisrks uf rnni^te MTMgvil at certain dblimecai Dial projecting a
shuft waj fenna e|jc external ta-w," tu;<l thuni itL lib illnstmtloci — an

errur which FargUfecc repeats in calling them' projecting £a«^.' Tbuir roaming
Iw* beem much distuw.ii, FLioilhl tqggcttH thai they may have Is tended
to bold pkle» com lifting the name-* of I he (prmBllftf the hUIwIo haw

IjMhuelmfflbtfrof coibdimmint}. liul Hidr tmuiU-'f i* ilestrurtivr of I hi* hypo,
theda. I>thr>ni have snppo4cd a plane Efirr relcretiw. With the*- tbcofirt* it would
Isc faille tfl urp-ni 1 . LHculafoy c0Ujoflt am ibl they wi-re mamuf dl^nii. Tfcia,
^Luruin, iu hie, ing that liii-m an.' Iw«p 1 n tile block. P-mjt,

thLnkii that they may lafe contained pirn}**-* uf colunrrd /rfiPffw or etiarhle. So
chi|wOTfrft^tntrjt?, hjwever 1 ,uf iUL-l Ldeconiliveaddltl uiiai hare ever been dljtcovcusL
I Incline, tberofon", to tlur upEnien rhat they were partly oruri menial 1 , and wcfn
designed to relieve the Eevei of Ibe eater wuiwa:. * Hldit* Yal, ii, j*L I ^7.

VOL, P- L

PEltSJ \

14C

I |iiL <3 next to tilt? discussion of its purport- That it wus not B firt
temple 1 consider certain, from its utter lack of «*amblAnot to any
Persian llrewdtor that nxists, either in ruins or figured upon
W !t > coins, Whet could have b«m the object of keeping the
-.rn-nsl Il f"* i« b prison-like cell, VirmetiffllBy wncc^li'd from the outer
-,ir 1 Neither coald ji tire-alt*r Wl» .cowl upon the rool, seeing that
it U not lint. Phil nlin and Cnste thought that the chamber might have
ufhH i for embalming and preparing the royal corpse, prior to its
deposit in the reek-toinb opposite, Hut, although 1 have elsewhere
shown reason* for hollering that the body of Cyrus may have teen
mummified, then- is no passage in any author. >r in the Avreta itself,
tide favours the existence of such a practise as a general rule ; mad
why, even if it were so, there should have been assigned to the
ombijniOTi « small (relighted cell, so little convenient for their task, h
is impossible to s*v. Canon RawlineOft has snggm-tod that, it Tiiay
Irnve l«en the Royal Treasury, 1 an hypothesis for which there * equally
scant support ; simre no reason ia forthcoming why the treasure ahould
I rive been Stored here, in immediate proximity to the royal tombs,
mtlu r than in the city, where, siceording to Diodorus it was actually
k,,.i and ein<* although P«*nrgnd,v may have bud its treamre-l.om*
also, there is n.. conceivable reason for the existoire of such a budding
nt X:nilwin«lajati. Diculafoy, tqjproxiniiiling to the only possible con-
dtndcm vi*. that it was a mmutoh-unt, auggret^ that the king’s body
„iftv lmve Im temporarily deported therein, to await the process of
dissolution before taring commit t,< I to it* final resting plaee in the
, ippositi , c iiff. But, agwai, there is no autWly for the exmteacnof
sueli a practice ; nor could the precepts of the Areata concerning
, xr , l( .^ Lave thus ls«o carried out ; nw does the cl.mnbcr in the
least degree resemble any rf«Mnw ever encountered or described. On
ih- contrary, Diemlaloy’s own discovery, if correct (I unfortunately hod
not heard Jf it and therefore Ailed to verify it on the spot), suggest* a
lllon . wmauent form of scpiiUnn- and the introduction of a heavy
weight or probable sarcophagus into tins interior, although no present
trace exists. if saeb an object. I arrive, therefore, at the condurion,

w j,ieh tha analogy, prtritranly . ntioued, of tin- Lycian tombs eurro-

boretre, that this fabric, along with those at Fnsargjwhe and Nan-
baiubjan, was a royal nr princely sepulchre,” the last rorvivol probably

p fifth f/mt Ori*nU T- r Jfatorf-%* VQt. til. \k Safi.

T 1 t iiltA ii "uncvfty n cfCA.wj to ttlifCUSH r migk F i»t ion —which lira, n evert hfl*
itumd ftdvacAt^ thil tlu» mmifisuloiramr it* HUntCTpflrt nt i'AsiuvTwlrr ccttp-
^somlh wish ttw Tihmb of C? rq^ m <Vt-crib^l by Arrbih *ml Strata, it icKiubln
ibe? iatUT in b>j jartVcuilAT cnMpt in tain$r a find wjtmr*, It hm no colon-

Hikdo- It* ^Gliturr clwMWtar dor* ftOt miwwctT to the description fin oX/atp^
Mv*™ aU + i ho floormT Detlhcr mnnH her tuiffuw, but U r omfcirtAbly large.

FErtSEPOUS, AND cmmn BOTSI9

147

tif art older fashion of Interment which may luvve tlisnppnaretl after
iho first rock-tomb had been hewn by order of Darius* M. Ftrrut,
with whose rwomiig T am fortunate in fouling myself in harmony,
carries the argument a step further! and in fens that, if the Ziudnu
fit FasargjHln 1 wns, as suggested by Dieubifoy, the mausoleum of
CMubyra, the father of Cyrus, bo its counterpart at Nnkiili iRtis(-rim
may have been that of Hjntaipefl, the father of Darius,

Before finally living tlie Hitfein Kuli, there r^rnsiiii to ho noticed
a few other relies two among them fur from unimportant, (hut occur
at the western extremity of the ridge. Upon a bluff of the
FinrMdinr* cliff ttmxds a solitary shaft, hewn out of the solid
without either base or capital* five and A tmif feet high* and one nod a
half feet eei diameter. It does not appear to have belonged to any
building, but may have fulfilled some memorial or votive object. Hard
bi\ on the tup of the rook, there uro some spared and levelled -paces
ascended by low steps, which are conjectured to hnveaerved as tlakhttn^
or platforms of exposure for the dead. Sixty yards round the comer
of the cliff, where it turns in a northerly direction, two umnistakatfr
tjre-altars, of unequal di&u-niuiHfti, an- encountered, situated ride by
aide upon, or rather hewn out of. a projecting of rock, thirteen

fret £id*f)ve the plain J They are reflectively fi ve and u half and five feet
high, mid four and n half fret square at the bw + ami Upor inwards
toward* the summit to it square of three and two-thirds feet. Their rid«t
ire shaped in tho form of tilled-hi arches, with m engaged column at
each turner. A sort of parapet runs round the top, which is excavated
into a hollow for the fuel, oih> foot in width and eight indies deep.
This form of altar dues not exactly com.^porn'I with, but is, neverthe¬
less* not materially different from* those with which wo have ben-- nmde
familiar by rock -carvings and coins; and it ts not unlikely that this
interesting pair are the oldest Maadeaik relic in Persia. A little further
mi, Morfer speaks of u number of holes or window^ of various rires,
but Of the eamo pattern, with biseripHoua over them, hewn in a mecss
(if the mountain. J I did not see them myself ; but Krr Porter, who
did, found no trace of the alleged inscriptions

We liavc now completed our oxnniination of the monument on the
north ride of the Morvdnaht plain, and may wend our way towards the
jl Riai^H gr*tfct |wUace*plAtform t which is our present goal, and its

<ji! ilu* everlasting glory, noticing en route a few scattered relies that

at ill exist outside the nm of Pcrsepolis itself, These sire
thn*e in number, On the plain to the north of the platform, about
lialf way between it and Nakahd-Rustain* mid nearly opposite Naksb-

* F lnm ljin and Costt*, voL iv, pi. ISO; Stc^C, vpl. ji, p], ] 14 .
t lint /tamup, p, I2S.

PERSIA

i-ttajfthti* a terrain of white limestone, poiU]H^vi of massive blocks
u*n feet in length by four feel in dvpfch t in two stages nr tier*, the
b^vtr of which project* nearly two feet, beyond tho higher. 1 The upper
xuriW** bi thirty- mt ven feat iqtmn^ and rise* to *lii elevation of wm
fee* ;LI ri• viH 1 he plain- It is variously dedgnatod by the natives Tnkhl-
i-Eu*t*rt« T Rustam's Throne, imd iWtht-i-Taoua or Throne of the
Peacock, n title which appear to Lave no specific or intelligible
meaning, bill i s promiscuously applied fco many remnifta of QTitkjmty
in Portda. It luw beCJi conjectured that this platform may have
fanned tlie base of a lire altar ; bur the hypothesis lack* any coitoW
mlioJL Half n mile from the platform to the north, and not far from
the rocks, i> T qr WAS, a .Htuiir doorwnfj (WiRtiog of ddo jambs ami a
lintelp with the figures of priests in long robes, chi&dled in high relief
open the former, similar to the Funiepotllan pirtaLs and to the rroams
at Tokht-b Abu Naur near Shim?.* The third relic has for many years
Co-isetl ta exist, though its site is visible. Hut it was so frequently men-
tiffined by the older travellers, from Kaempfer and Lo Bran downwards,
that its di*appi»wui« merits pacing notice. This wm? & solitary column*
tliatrciic among the of other**, in thy plain op pod to tho south- west

;m^3e of PerF^jupti^j and formed pari of ^imo vanished structure, It
wcLs thrown down about the year 1803 by wan during TMats p for the
sstke of the iron emoip *4 by wludi its drums wore held together, 3

nur aiirvoy has brought us lo the palacesplatform, which, w ith
its rain*, lias for over t wo centuries been accepted ns the PcricpoLLs
, that, Alexander captured and burned, and in the last quarter

P*Ui 0 f that period hn* been proved, by the inscriptions that
survive upon its buildings, to hove been the veritable structure uf the
nnrller Acluemcniai! kings., 1 The historical questions. whether here

i J a p, iterfef, /I r§t p. 13T i C- J. Rich, Jdwrturif fa Prr^^Us^ p K

R, H. JimniriLT. 7 Vm JViTrV frurrf, vdb EL |>. 40: Flnfidtn and Cwl« k Tut. it pi. ti3 ;
StoL&e, ^cb lb pi- IS.

i Sir It. K PortL-r. VOL i p. ftSO; It II, Dinning, od it p, £7,

t i>o.«elpv, TTurrU, «A it p. 23!i: FJhkUd ami Goat*, voL ILL pi. ifls

* The writer* who ku’ described or diictastfl Perscpolip have been n 3 many
cm cnn.lv to admit uf ban noHUftESrion here, I will divide tk'ni into two classes :
(I) the trmveUn who h*v« visiW the min* ;p) thi srhidaiK and students who
liatr Etc pmblcum nridoff cut of the Mldptum and EnttripEbn*. In

neither of therm «w* *haJ] I encumber thl* footnote hr naming the litha c*l the
wctIo alhuhsl to, the bulk of Ihccn b avi lag already been mciql U?eim1 in

Ku-N'pafO^. i Aafli hOWcrer,, add a -motS Udrd dae*. wilh titlw fncloded. o!
ihder write* wlm P eitlicr by thn- rcceuay «jf the quality uf their lal™^, ilcscn-fl to
tfc 0 <'i:lid- It'd a* tin: jirincip*l flCtoat aolhurifitw- S, Prmr Odofictu {ctre. 1325),
.towfa rLirhAic (imX Antdinn dl Clovcw (Dun (L dr 8 ilm v Fagueixm

(l«0)i P.drila Valle (l*21XSlr T. Herbert (l^’t J, A. dc Huddulp CW>,
J, It Ta»ot , r | ior (die. IliSSO), J. de Havana (dro. li. Jjipr (ditt

A. DftUli^r-Ibybiadc*(IfeflX Hh J r Chardin (due. IdTot Pcfo Angela (eErc.

J. sjtrtiy* (1«7 £>i J- ^rycr (D57G), H- von Siftmpfcr ^^34?, C U It mu (L704),

FEBSEPOLIS, AKD OTHER EtfINK

14®

was iiulwl the palace to which the MacKbiiiiin sut ftrfij wlietlmr tlu*
weuc the citadel a nd fortress oF FcrsO| wilis, which huve boon so minutely
desari l»d by certain ancient writers, whether the building* upon its
surface were over completed, end by what me^ns came idttiut their
mutilation and dediho— I will postpone until a description of tW
ruins- has furnished with the dfttn whereupon to construct»
reply* Suuilarly, the artistic problems which the wnniff ii suggest,
iuul T in part only* nvnil to solve—such* for [nsitanw, jui the aoum* fnsw
which the iden of the pa taco - platform ami lui.ll - wa^ derived, th p
origin,, nature, purpose, and quality of the Rcntlp^ares with which they
jifw adorned, and the elm meter and object of the various edifices— will
be more rkppmpria^'tv tflkuii in ha nil when wo are familiar with the
grounds of a possible induction, 1 in av, Lavevvr p state at ouue that
Fergn&son p s theory tlmt- the palaces of Ptrsepoli^ were buildings
adapted to the double purpufn 1 of secular government and religious
adoration will meiit with no support here. 1 Indeed* I know of no
source from which it is capable of receiving support at nil. Hi ere is

G. N hi ■ tihr < 1 7(iB ), Cl e, de Ferrara -Saw *»■l** i: f (1 7*5) , VV . F nu^li ft (1 1 S7 J, J. iSd - U
Waring (Ilitifi}, J.P, Heifer (1800-11)+Sir W, Ouapfey (1811). W. Price (1HM),
hL ilru- Icing b run (IBIS), Sir 1L K- Hurter (USMOi C- .1 Itich (1MJ), Kir II. Haw,
llnson (dm* IBID;, dl, IlBTier (1840), B&mo c. dt Bode (1M0 *. K. Plain Hn arid
r. CcHto (1M1), ic B, Sinning Cl&ai) p J, U«t»r riSGl). A, Vnmbfry (1803).
Y. Stake and F* C. M[W (11*77). H. P. Kfech (1*78), fi S*su* (mi), W am!
J P Dkiilnfay (mi). 11. Ilydff. Crae, Ldbdti. D 1 Hancarri]k* Caper, Cfcybu*
Hwmn,Jcmi.% KIciiker.MaanBrt, De Murc. Maurice, Witle, Gratefentf. Hikgnmoim.
Tyehseii,, llocck. Ik ikscy. [jraglfee, De -SaLllfly. Jicirri-s. Rflhntlli Bnnionfi WjiJ. 1,
L.i--4-is. Wcsl^nidt Hdtgmann, Senfi?T, Fwira^nn. Hitter* Spiegel,

Bgwpl, KiPEs-rt, Jlineks, Menkc, Kh**iiwm-3c* Op^iett, Vaui, Mcinltmarm, Ixittor-
ipm, SftTfv, Minimi, Futftit and Chipfei. K^ldcke. IT1, Of t; * s*loct t aB

eLt; i j: . i-i r j-i cm y lo ilLj ■ stink ul - Si i H. ftevWlljL^Oh, JiifiHMri tjf \ Ar It l i
vols. 3t. x i. siw.; J. Fsrgnsstm* TA§ Fattier* t'f AljwrrA Prr&ijretif i T-ftm-d \
a T-urfor, L'Arwtihd+ k i.e,; Flandln awl Prr>r Anri#*** : K. IKtmot, la

Aclhnfmidr* rf le* TwtripK**** da U IW*r ■ .T. t>E^peri, Lr /Vhjvlr ft Ut Ist*^
da J Thia nmt frumptim u Achfmeridt*; F. JhV . Ifr/wnwtr^ Anfift-

F. Mmlir, VefkamdL d. tiariturk./. &rdk*:. £lertin< 1FSS: F. Biol 4c and
Th. Nfildckc, Per»;+(itt Th, XuErh-kc. 1 fkiwspoll*/ in Jlwytff. /fnfrtw. (&lh edit*);
11, noo&atoy* / JW *NfiVw I* fa /Vrwj PeflOt anti Chipi«, ffidvlr* df lArt
dtiv runUymtl* to!* V.j F. H. WfcbtMch. Di? A vkum?*ldlnarkrifteH Zxrifrt Art.

1 Fer?T 3 Bwn himself saw dearly that they were not IpmpU-H m the strict sense
of the term, UunHkrtua (L iai) #dd Irnly Iliac she Fenkna hml m teiupleft, ah«l
wlirn* *m sJho nxk of uri L Darius ^peakn *d having refllore#! tbfl ctimpLi'S whldi
thii Wnurper ilomsteji had de*trayed* he K probably, either alluding to t|i» fiiij-
ujiar* o-f the ^emuEtrian Faith. Of to the lemplna nt subject naEionalilicfl Hiwt
religion^ which the I’.altwilic ltd pmtt>EcHUilifce jympathieS of Una Aclut racninfl
indaewst them hahUmdly lu A temple, as undenrt-ued In

AimtIei. Egypt. Jitrlwn. or Orem -Hk «icminttry of the god— was a aracrptScB
neepurily nli^n to n belief wtalrin Ihi ddtj tu reimMlc^l Cw express! in ihc
eleinerLtal Fornw of natert. F«)piaHm k a ttniH-rry of leligiOUP fldfjratlin in lria.w<3
cmly on a far-felehcd indiicdon from tlie Atalpture- cm the toyil tonbSi

ISO

PK1SSIA

n ut tm tin* platform ft Hugh? t iwte of lire- niter, fire-temple, or adjtmflt
of mfHjaliiji, and I uni ut ft los* to nndftwtand upon wlmt grounds other
than thui of ei fiil.ii- analogy, such an hypothesis can ever have aborted
into existence. I shn.II treat the platform n& that which it \mts dearly
boon demonstrated to be, to. a collection of royal aadkiKse-halfo anti
I kinoes, devoted to the ceremonial uapecta of the Grout King’s exist end-. 1

1 For the heir O* dm student, 1 append a tabulated cittdogun of tba illiutm-
l[on,t,f IVnefwIi*, U|«m which Iw mu* in a larfje nWMttTU depend. The* by
Talar, an -l Xlandfn and tkwie, are ooppe^ptate nognrinpi; tbo#e by Htolie, and

PteLLL*fiiV, *rt pltottffniphfl:—

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PLAN Ofc’ PERSEP0L1S

r^BSEPQUS, AND OTHER &V1S&

Setting fortln fr^m Fukc]i for PcTBUpolis* T tuminl the c fl rfK’i of the
dlfi; passed the sculptured recess of Xakah-i-Rrieb* already dorodbed,
au*l T keeping my faco to tbr houe.Ii, mul the rock, Vibith i.". -
Aji^nuLeti Mnd ^ cnlled Kuli-ilUkmet or Mountain of

Mercy (forfflurly known &h £5tiiUl Kills) ou fbe loft band, came in night,
in about twenty initiate of the great platform, sending boldly out
from the mountain-base, and supporting ou its sui-iace the ruined
pieni and pillars that jj I uht rations had rendered so familiar to my
gaze. This is the northern approach to the platform ; and hen? an
outcrop of roek jutsu E . at the TUNth-west corner almost to the level
of it-s suiimiH, so that «me can reach the latter without recount to ^ 1 -
great stairs. Thu latter are at a distune of seventy yards lieyniid the
nurth-west angle, and are built in a recess of the main face of the
platform, vriiidi fronts the breadth of the Mcrvdusht plain with a
wi-sterly outlook- Remembering I ho famous Ijor^t tluifc tht* stsitaSi 1
was of w gentle a slope that horsemen might ride up and down, 1
rounded the angle of the plntfonn* retie up tli# rninod steps, and dia
mounted od the summit iimiudiately before the bull -flanked Propy hm
of Xerxes

The substructure of PersepoIlH consists of a great plat-form* or
three sides of a ptrallelognun built out from the miwiitidn-W, whmv
Ti.r pU4- l«w ftl ^ >»*» pored down and levelled to suit the
b»tui architectural purpose, anil Ihe^c then been built up and fiuSfe^
with gigantic blocks of atone, cotifititatmg a pfirpeiwhotilnr wall that
rises to a height ^drying frem twenty to nearly fifty fret ubene the
plain, Its tub*, Ktrie tlv apalti ng* is inclined from north * west to *out h *
east | but. for sbnplidly’ft sake l shall speak of it ns north hi uoutli.
Teh nmn length is, in this direction, E B 5&3 feet ; Its breadth from wt
re we si Is 920 feet. The original reck is in tunny placed visible on the
surface, and iis ii'jHjurilitiftt ilk the main account Imth fur ike capricious-
m-ss of outline, and for the different terraces or levels upon which the
various structure* were mis^d. Une staircase, indeed, on the plat¬
form ia hewn out of the mother-nick* and a cistern is similarly hollow h I
in it. Ormt imcplnrity but witfml well-conceived structure! relief,
is lent to the external uppenrenre *«f tbs platform by the numerous
lays and angles into which, least on the main front, but chiefly on the
north Hide, the wall U broken. Of great blocks o i stone, eftinctime^
laid horizontally, but more commonly of polygonal shape, ia this com-
posed. They urn Want ifuily fitted and adjuatud, without mortar or
cuinotit, although originally held together on their upper *mrfnco by
iron cramp h soldered into double dovetails with 1 cad- Some of these
great stones have 1x** h n measured in- much a a fifty feet In length by
six to ten feet in width. * tragically a corn ire and parapet ran round
the edge of the platform. xml lent it n decorative apponmeft frtuik the

plain, ha vo now entirely Ott the southern wall

an* engraved fcmxcimeiffWtD Inscription* (two in Persian* on* in Susta.n r
and one in Ansyrlui} which dedarfs that it wan the work nf Damns,
who in (lie manner til rein ly familiar to lia from the epitaph on bin
sepulchre, invoke* Ormu^h pmnt^ lii> tributaries and subjects*
and pbwto hi* p dage under tho protection of the deity. 1 The surface
of the platform, though Uttered with debris und* to wne ports* piled
high with mound* of rubbish and saiui, is yet clearly divisible into
four levels, which am the r*snit of natural configuration quite as much
jui of ik iieljl»*ralc architectural design. The lowest and smallest of
tiiesu* is a narrow platform an tin* south,. 180 feet in breadth* ami uljout
twenty feet in height nlmve the plain. It appears never to have boron
any buildings. The s*<xmd lovulis that upon which stood the Propyhna
of Xerxes* and, further Iwhiml* the Hall of a Hundred Columns*
and who** bright is thirty-five to forty feet above the plain, Next
comes the level, about ten feet higher, thru supports the Hall of
Xerxes ^ and fitmtty, at an additional height of ten feet* is the termer
upon which wen> cnnstrturU-d tlie palaces of Darius and of Xmet
AH t Litre edition the platform ikdf r and the outer wal] p wen*
built nf the sumo material. Its line texture, its superb and mom fold
^ L tintar and the high polish nf which it admits, liar* induced

moot writer* to describe it ha marble, while many hove de¬
nominated It in different parts atwnling to it* colour, syenite, basalt,
and [porphyry. Le Bran, turn venturis ago p and Niebuhr in the last
century, were quite correct in |M*itiling out tbU error. The material
of which every square foot of hewn or chiselled surface at Persepolis is
computed cmd indeed { I believe) every relic, without exception * of
the Aehnfiieiiiati period in Persia is the calcareous limestone of it*
native mountains, la this were haw d the royal rook tombs j upon thi*
wo* sculped the lordly proHmiuition of Disk tin ; of this wn* built the
Tomb of Cyrus, Short of marble, to which in grain and in surface-
tone it approximatr-s a, liner nnUeriaE cannot anywhere be found,
while the variety of colours which It presents in its nalumi .stMe, or
b capable of lut&utninff under the influence of expoeut*, i* surprising.
Sometimes it lias been blanched almost snow-white, or of an amber
richness elsewhere it is brow n and sombre. frequently gray, mvl
occasionally r when polished* n rich blue-black. Nor can there be the
slightest doubt as to the spot from which the Uniterm] of PcxsepolLa
won, In tlit* jmek of d» Kuh-blUhmet, in more than one place
Vwith to the north and the -outii of tin* platform* are visible the
qunrrk* from which the HtoncimnMms hewed the stem*. Big blocks

1 ItawllnMia, J'Wfirttl r*f it i,s. t vttl. *, pji 3SU rf try ,; Spiegel, IK? a ftpr?**

pp. 41-513 >b nant, /o pp. KM.

1-AXUtUMA Ur I'3LILri1'L I ■ . I n FliQ^J 1111 MliHt

PKKSEPOLIfi, aSD {JTlLElt UU1NS

RTC still lying there, either ready for removal, or noL jet wholly
mi«l from the mother neb. Chipped fragment* u»y ho encountered
all slung tlu- slope. The proximity of this gn*t natural ***** ot
supply must have Iwn «* »f the main w»bs for the o

thTdte of Fcrwpoli*. and account* for lie rutonillwg w*™ «
sculpture. Scarcely any transport was needed, and the workmen
coulil birth how and elaborate his raw material on the --pot.

For about l&Uyuarstho platform luu Iwea taUed by the Pemsns
TokhM-Jntiifhid, or Throne of Jamshwt It* earlier name, which can
l>e traced as far bock as the fourteenth century, and also still
r “" B,,to survives was CKobel M.mir, i.e. Forty Minarets or Spires, an

nUtutwm to the big column* of the Hall of Xerxes, ... ungnm ly

numbered many more, htu have steadily dwindled For centuries, V <-rt; ,
ius has been hefora remarked, i* a roninl number in Persia ; and it is
accordingly fanciful to ascrilm the origin of the liiIo to a period when
the columns may have amounted to exactly that total- Uthor «u
coiniato Persian titles souietimes applied, have been Chehol ami Hazsr
(Thousand) Hituu. Herbert, in 1627, mid that the platform mfnnuM
him of Windsor UasLlo from Eton. I confess that I canunt imagine
any two objects more dbsiiuibir: nor do I know of any die or strm.
turn in the world, with the single exception of the platform si llaal jih-,
in Swim will, which Fteraepolis car. at «U fairly W «™P^L Tim
anakwy of or ™ck-dtmld*, is not it fair -me, umanmh n*

they wore commonly situated, at Athens and Pergi .«, Jrtfit as now a

Sakbuig and Kfinigatein, on th# HOOindt of uniaral elevations; while
the platform of Persopnlis is urtificijdly built Up from 1 he pMb
whereon, -wing lo the stretch of surrounding Hat, ami die Uvkgnuttid
of the htuh-i-Hiilmmi. it can never have occupied a really .oim minding
position. Indeed, I indin* to think that the spectacular
Propemilk, no lea than its present panoramic importance, hnvn been
uniformly exaggerated by travellers. From udistance, n* wu apprem- *
it, noras* tln> wide plain of MrrvJiWiht, it appontu^ ut im )» *" l
insignificant: and must, even when cowered with ite intact pdaoesnm
halls, lmve always f«m dwarfed by ita surroundings Tt is only as
we ride up to the grent front-wall, and i>ti!l more as warn i
among ii« inegnlithic ruins dial the full impression ”i U' giau 1 *ur
force* it-self upon the mind. Few visitors, in all probe n itj, no no
disappointed with the first «mp dW. But overt hour pasted m
scrutiny is a degree of admiration gained : until r. 'SMistiuitin,, in
fancy, fnni the dismembered skeleton before us, the nrisrimi er*. po i ■.
gUttering and pompous, os it emerged from the fmiids ol Hanui* nu.i
Xerxes, we can well Imlievo that no more sumptuous frame work ot
regfil MAgalfieeim was ev^jf 1 wrought bj nmn. , B

It is in Imping with the bimrre outline, Bind with what the

PERSIA

\Z4

termed thr genera! den/^cfpm, of the structural ills positions of tjui plat-
form, that thr main iitnirffij, ind^N] the only virildv accv&i- 1 to its
Mmn sum wit , should \mve been placed, not m tile middle, but in

,-lo-e proximity to ti» north-west angle, The front wall o£
tbw platform hi pur|xwjly nscessed; oud in tin? bay so formed, two
flights ar 1 first Emn w diverging to right and left, anti each containing
iff&y-gtght steps. AI the top of each of these flights is a landing j
anrl th« ramps then rum towards each other emd converge this wcont!
or upper flight continuing forty-eight steps each (i.e. n grand total of
L'l^h'-iind teniiinatiiig ml h central lauding seventy feet long, on a
|«vrl with the lop Of the platform, wlnuh is hetts 1 hi it V-four feet above
the plain* Tint steps are, sm 1 have previously indicated, iery shallow,,
being lc*a 1 hmi four inches deep. They am twenty -two euuI n half
feet wide, and fifteen inches broad. Several uteps, in one immuicti
fiiolcd by Ouwluy) as luany us sixteen or seventeen* are hewn out of a
single block of Jiiin-i Mur. Gawdchmiig tins _ h , I"" years "f idiniate and
eondioi which they have braved, they am on the whole wonderfully
wll preserved ; and the entire fanned a fitting, but not, I

think, uniore then fitting approach to the palnt-si of the AcWmcnutns.

I certainly cannot concur in the frantic transports of most visitors,
who Hav** joined in eulogising this ns the finest flight of steps in the
world* The Propybwi at Athens, though reprinting, of course, a
very different concept] un, constituted to my mind a far nobler approach ;
whilst, in the Rome architectural class, the grr.it suirways iljat led up
io the pahiH-t^rraci^ of Satgon and Setmitcbcrfh at Nineveh must
Imvo been considerably nu>ne impoung. It is noteworthy that neither
on the walls of the stairways nor on the lntoiretuog surface of the
terrace-wall, am there hem either sculp^rv* or idsmptions* The
actual date of the staircase it is impossible to establish, but from the
fact that U lemlft direct to the Portal of Xerxes, a reason might be
found for associating it with tie 1 mane of that monarch. On the
other Imid, we are then left without a direct approach from the plain
to the earlier edifice# of ! inrpuH^

Jnnut-d lately opposite, anil at a distance of forty-live feet from the

1 A tmft for wheeled vehicles, hnwi-vi.*, ha- been traced which amended the

pktfumi an tin ■uuth.

* I hftT^ pinm the tignre* af Fl&ndin and Ca*t«. Mofftir **id the fii>T iHghts
bad M Htftfro; Porter and bbnhsfcf. ; Pleulsfoy, Pcriuip-- murr ham becu

utiemed at the Ikuw. _%U Jign;e io f& ilefH for the upper ilii^tiih

1 From the frets 1 3jji t tkn; 1‘ahicr- nf J: : ariiss ^tandJr tewnpis the *out h end of
the jdolforrn arvd foco* toward# ?he *oulb*a[td that an iu^ripth.'ii of thil motuuck
Lt iTigmved un the extreme emtaide math wall, FcigoHon (p. Us) infer* that the
i>fl0nal entrafM-r ^ba cm tluit side* and time the north *tn portion el tlna pliiUercn
wru nrldnl by Xcrxit#. Than tin.-, a n^rlaSn air of likellhi>ud ; but where, llicm, jji.
or wav, tk lUiaimt? of hunufl

mai-v Hniiur^K

FfHtSEPOJiIB r AN IJ OTHER MINS

h-^jLii of the attiircasep stand the imporintf reirtrmi> of fkt we know*
fnmi the cuneiform inscriptimts upon it p to have been tho Porch of
p orc it 0 [ Xerxo-H. This wua u structure consisting of three porta : ei
X ftix"- Ixu^n- bulhfbiTiked portal* macing the pliift, an interior hull
or court whose roof was sustained by four great column-, iml
a further bn It-flunked porta] facing in the opjwsJte direction or
towards the icouuiuin*. From it* character nod dimension*, not Jess
than from thn terms of the inscription, we can be certain that this
structure tilled no oilier purple than that of a ceremonial approach
or doorway to the great hull, which the same monarch built a little
farther On T although its orientation is at right angles to the latter.
The tirst objects that greet ok in this portal are an tttuuiiitakaljle
reminder of the Assyrian foreruliners of Achremuman art, and cnL^Ei(.
almost liaw Itcen liormwed from the balls of Xlmrud or KJidnaib&tt,
They lire twnj great tigures of bull-, who^fl lore f«t T sturdily plants! oil
ped^uds fivu feet above the ground, and the fronts of w Lob* bodies face
the spectator* being sculped In bold projection from the piers of the
gateway. On tin? inner walk of the passage the hinder porta of their
bodies ami tin tits project similarly from the surface, but in lower relief,
while their hind legs, in contrast with the nolid repose of their fore
stride pimid^ fcrwds. 1 Earlier travellers used to rhvlmv
that these great i|tLndru|>etls were monolith* ; but it Is obvious from
a cursory inspection that they rnt built up of four courses of stone.
Their dimension* are seventeen and three-quarter feet in height and
nineteen feet in length, the total height of the piers whoso fewer parti
they ftrlom being thirty-five and a Imlf feet, length twenty-on*?
feet, thickness six find, siud tin? breadth of the corridor between being
twelve feci* The head of the monster on the right liaod o i the
spectator hiwi completely disappeared ; the neck of that on the left
stimvcfc, but the whole fore part of its head has been hacked off beyond
aU p'-^ability of recognition. Rem ml lcs neck hangs a collar of rose*-.
Oil the chi^tn and between the forelegs of loth 'boosts, os also on their
Khnuldcrs, ribs, and flanks, are musses of hair in lightly frisked and
roundi.il curls.- Although the ingenuity of the early travellers wll 4
severely strained in the effort to mnnwtnid the absent features of
these eolo*ri ( and to explain the rival pair in th** eastern gateway,*

1 This Is a jjuinl &f difffWCt* from she As>tTiu.ti niunstura, which invariably
have five tegs a fifth being hitrodqred behind the fare legs, to IhM, when virworl
in profile* nil four tegs may visible, mid th* remi mill tad e ol mev^mont tuay be

MUatm ned_ *-

: Some of the eldrr writers curiously tnbtiwk tftara lot arttwur-

1 Totalis VailU thought they were otunf^undlwi of horw, man* an i griffin;
Herbert, uf depliank rbkxKWM- Pega™* and ^HUln r WandfWD, of 1wr«- and lion;
Bu of (dephut; rluvnltn, of hoTHc, LUm, ihlnoom*, and eleplutat;

PlvlLSlA

there vwirmi. be a doubt, from tb* shape arid anatomy of ilitir yia,
i-lint thrv w?ti' intoifcdi.il for bulk ; and any hesitation on t tain wcare
diLidly removal by the discovery of the Mhm of one of the hulMiwuEfc
by Flnmlki and Ooete. The mmole* are finely indicated on the bodies
iif the beauty and their pose nnd mien typify the proud dmlknge of
arrogance and ntnmgtli.

Above the bulk* high u p s on the inner walk of the gnt«w*j p urn
chiselled on either side* in parallel tablets, the iiuioripticMis in throe
iaKripn h„ i tongues* which retail tin* tinudiwork nf Verses, Tld* is
oi w hat the Idng bay a

A gnat Gwt in Onuuxib who hsitU created the cmtt fei B wb. laKtb fronted the
htavuu-i, who hath mated mrm L vlid Ifcrtth given to mankind the c^od -pi HE flifO.
who Irnlh mnde King. thuaote King nf m*ay King*, the nole Lod of many

L^t^K I am £#rce* k the fcircnl King, (hr King of Kings* ihe Kicg of (ho many-
tongued akontrlen. the King of thl* great univerec. ih » *m o( IhiriuJ, th& King,
like At-hirim-nsriTi, Xfrskfl, the I i real King. *dtb: % tht: gtttcc of Ortnctsd I h 5 W
mwle this jHirtnl, wbsreoit tore depleted nH the coontiiM^ Many 0liter noble
liJiunnmoti the™ arm in lb> VfLim* which I fan Vo wrought. anil which my father
hiilh wrought. That which hath been wrought il good. AO of it we have wrongtu
hy th* gram of OrmomL X mates the King mith h May Ormuid protect mound
fcny empire, Both that which I I live wrought* and t\mK which my father hath
Wrought may Qnxnttd proUi.'t ttn-in, 1

Kr->tii thi* proud memorial it is, 1 ludieve, with affected disgust thnt
most traveller* turn to the mortis of many generation! of European
EpiKT^cih* visitors, who Jmvii either <mt nr painted their names on tlio
'/travel lower surface* of this gateway T in -omo L-ai*e* *'vm on the
ljEMlW nf the buDt I confer that I do not share tbi- apnrimte emotion*
A structure so hupvluftBly ruined i* n- ft rendered the less impressive un.
tha contrary, to my tbiitktng, it becomes the more tpfeec&itiiig—by reason
nf the records graven upon it, in many cases with their own luwU,
h# f^moita voyagers of the past, with wfioso mmm mid studies tint
intelligi fc nt visiteir to Perwcpolk a likely to bo llltiwt as familLnr as be

Kaempfri. of camBtO|wd; U- llrun, of AphLltk, honte v lloti p aQd *pc ■ Knmklln, a(
Jion. prlffici^tnl eh*plu,FkU fbTtriirl's iUBitratltHj rx juTS^nt^ them nm mc^I ikiriocw-
looking moHAd-fWi principally olf pharit From Nicbahr downwnjvls il twmH
favhiiNEiiibk io fall I hem ^plilaii^. Ei.tm Wiirior thought the iir>t jiair h&\ the
hi'Aljjl of

1 The word b VUndnbyatti (rkrivud ^nms ri*t m f^r * nil, and rfriJ^d*rjr or

(ount TW% ItjfcWlUiJHJti TRtloUilj Vrinlv.r* il 1 gAl*. uf ^atraBi'i- ‘ aiirl 4 public portal.'
Ojwrt inui'liim It an atwVv S|lii>gcl hu Mlcmti Thiirweg tIn alLti Volkcr
Dk-uktoy fnppwr* it to hr a iinij^f mine, aft*! rctulrn ‘re (iPuninllc nontmf’
Vl^adbabym'

* 17* a prr vimia frurtont*?. p« !-3S.

• 17* Kawh n ^ d ^ VoL «. pfk “ Kpifg^l, pp. .1^-9 ? Opiperl,

pp 22J-4; DlBulmfny, jit L it, p. Wnjulitwh, pp. ^?-5 + The trazukiton which 1
(save given b a wlktloa fiom MTtral nf [kwim™.

PKlfSEPOLlS, A \1> OTIIKH RT7 VS& 1*7

ih with the tititei of Xerxes, and whose forms: mm- to in Fnncy onw more
to people the scene which They have ivvecded and illumined hy thuir
writing tothoumdf of their fellow-countrymen, who may never havi*
li-iil the chance of acting foot on Persian noil tb™«lvo5. It wtw wiih
no iiritotioii therefore, but with keen interest, thufc I read here in large
characters the name of ‘ Cap. John Malcolm, L Envoy Extraordinary*
Pkm-Poteutiaryp T a.jl I#00, coupled with those of Captain William
Campbell, Captain J. Coicbrooke, and CS. Briggs ; 1 and, just below,
those of Kir Harford done** Bart, k.c. 1809, itaues Morier,* II.
WiUocV T. Sheridan, J. Sutherland ; and, again, Captain John
MaodotiaR 0 1808* 1310, and 1826. On the right hand wall I also
noticed the names of Stanley/ k New \orfe Herald,, l^Tt); of
Gobineau ; B of C. Texicr,* It I^bounlotiimye, and Pin Logniche^ I MU ;
of c. .r. Rich, 10 A. Taylor, EL Stunny, and I. Tod, 1821 ; gf Malcolm's
second Minion in 1810, im lulling among other mimes those of H,
Lieutenant Monleith, 11 Lieutenant Lindsay, ** wild Lieutenant
Pot linger ; 11 of B. Manesty, British Envoy in 1804, with hi- retinue.
The earlii-Mt recorded date that I noticed was 1704.’* To the in¬
tervening period belong Caretcri Niohniir, 11 ' I < G5 t and ^ - h ranking
1787.

Beyond the entrance gateway and the lir*t pair of colossi, thorp
^till stand two out of four lofty Anted column s* with the composite or
Omt±*T triple Poraepolilam capital, that is also found In the Hall of
Xerxea, in the Halt of m Hundred Column n, and In the hid]
of ArtaxerxtB Mnemtm at Snua. Hh-mi four pillani, the survivor* of
which are forty-®* and ihr^-quaru^ feet Ugh, Originally supported the
tnof of a central hall or couri. ei^hty-two feet square. The Mi hand
column i? ootupwd of three bl ock a ; but its tlu tings, which nre thirty -
nine in nurnl^r, do not exactly correspond, the drum> having evidently
1 mm n ahiflod from their position by earthquake- The second right hand

1 Sir J] nil11 MalcoLni, the hhtorlari <il Pl£*l» and GoVWUtrT of Boffltoj-
1 Thu translator el Fvdabm. ■ Aftonwifo sir Harford Jane* Bryi&*.

* The writer *) nrtfit tonal, also author ai H**ji Hntxt. anti tkm§f

fqfairr* AtTehoraiL * Altmrarfh Sir II. Tchcmi.

1 Afterward* Sh J. MuciTonald Klnwlr, mbbtor al Tnberan and author of
fayrajAt wf Jfr-rir ^ /W 4 ia, H. SL Stanley, the Afrfenft i;xpl«*r. wl»

ounc to I'lT-ia a* U nesr?pftp*r I'iirrevi'lnh nt r * Cnintc J- dr.
fraud* minister at TnboraD ami ftutinor of TWfc 4*| r« 4n>. 1 The author,

•o fn^mnlly ctiw3 + ot _fr*^jirfii*i Je fJrw^.Ate, !- Ullllili RMdttil at

Raghdjul, an.i in ItunilAta. who die* l al SliEnn in IH’Ji. n Aflflrwwdii

JSsr 11 . Rritiih etiVuy lo Pertaa, 11 Aflerwaida General hir \\\ H«tcith_

14 Aftrrwufd>^r II. Lilklsaj-AethdCic. fcl Thu explore ikdiiehLiah, attw-

wuidu Sir II. Pelllnger. " Mericr say a tlsht Tw Kiw here KudcliUnt name

(I^)ancl be Bfun , ft( l7tH> J JEi Itotffiy^lf notlM them. ** Arahlan

Irani]er P froiuentty qurtod.

PERSIA

column has fallen, and parte nf ite segments tie embedded in tile soil,
The capital rvnd small pieces of the shaft of the terrespomling left-
hand column err? similarly buried. In Chardin's time all four were
standing Stole* thinks that i_lir- topmast capitate of the** pillar* were
nlhiLgN»d. in the form of a bor>e; but T H’e no reason for supposing that
they terminated in anything else than the familiar hull* headed capital
ikf the composite Acbirtncniat* rnhnutn fOce thdr counterpart# in other
’CwlrmpatMrj fabrics.

This hall lend* to n second or corrospunding tfratewny on ilie eastern
face-* wher&j similarly projattiAg from the side and fronte of t wo infettrive
atmv piera* another pair of colossal momsters look towards
.. \ r ,vtiy 1 1 n ? Mioimtain. Their character anil phvsiognomj’, however,
differ from their pendants on the western fnoe, and indicate n dm:?
adherence to the Assyrian prototype. The bodies and the logs arc
again tin»-1» of bulk massive, masculine, innjestse ; fii-uc. above their
I tacks rise lofty win^ swiping up wank into this air (instead of lifting
laid hack. as in the rasr? of the Assyrian colossi < h with the phimt^
exquisitely carved in high and seemingly imperishable relief< A second
and more striking difference ia that these w>W] are or were lim nan-faced.
The pickaxe of the destroyer liim mutilated their feature* out of all nuts*
culine appearance ; but the great ringleted beank still depend intact
upon the stalwart chests; earrings hang from their care ; bunches of
hair frame heavily the vanished faces : and the heads are crowned hy
lofty tiaras, terminating nt the summit in a fringe or coronet of
feather^ while circular kinds* curl Lug tijiwjkrds m the shape of hems*
adorn the front. The bcwilderuieat and obfuscation which appear in
equal degree to have been excited in ancient travellers by these
remarkable monsters are well illustrated b the description of the
excellent I>r. Fryer, two centuries ago:—

Being frfiirffS th* Pomicrium of tMmbjwm Hall, at die Hall Ofilc* we cu-
counirnl two horrid £heipca both hr^mmknr si ml TTnwust&W**, btinpnU in
jkjmour of Coal of Mail. slrLkin^r a Tenor OH ihoim nbont to intnirk ; their
CbiLutonrac#* «ere of fbe titiraiE Liao*. find might pogi for such kid not huge

Winjf* zuA*h\ Ibrm rt]riug Gryffono, and their Bulk ami Hiiwkr igmcdtid the

IftTgest KtriJkuif -. 1

Why the bull bciulmi colossi should have Iran turned to wank the
plain, or fht'i main front of the platform, and the winged and nuu-
|ji-Lsidr*l bulk, which a w infinitely more jin poring h to wants the mountain,
is a problem which, so far as I know, no one hna dkcuaged, and which
no one h likely to solvit. Similar panel* of c auriform inscription

1 JViawfA P- 2^1+ Hie nnri*m* ha.*v mt been much wiW-r M AnqufltU
Dnpitmua intun**i*4 unm^ter* a* icymbalfaiJ repracutai jnn« of X<ah-

M. de S tar V emblem* of tlm myltural Kftlonmms. Of ocunc. tlm truth 4mnly
tkit ten tutltt had fc*sn m Babyldn or in AKsyriiL E ”

ctoiAwii or uei: rocai %i;uxra

rmtSEPGLlS, Am OTlJEIt RU 1 XS W*

decorate the Inner free of the eastern* ns of tbn previous* gateway.
As to the object of thin great twofold gateway, with itn interior hull.

I do not cancelvo that there can be «mch dispute. Forgmsaii sup
poses U lo have W 14 gate or «ist of judging like those menfened
in the Old Test fuih? [i i + hut 1 know of no ground for tottering that the
Persian tnoiiarehs so far dorogfttwl from the exalted idea of nicnuin hj
rsptwswl upon all their sculptures u* to render thraadvcs thus **mly
ncrerfhle to their subject*. Consequently, f regard the f*>reh merely
ns a monuLiientfil entry to the palace* and nudiMjee-hnlts toy«ud, not
unlike the pytens of Luxor and Karnnk

To the Sc ft or north of the Porch of Xersc* the natural took crop
up to the level of the platform* and hero ore the foundations of some
perished structurp, with the hoses of pilJitrs, and with a
Hi ogle drum of an unfluted column, which 1 do not retnonitoi
to have tw&n noticed an tudi in any previous work . 1 On tha other or
Houtli side of tin- further gateway b a tank nr cistern, coiufowil,
according to Buckingham* of large stones hollowed, according to
Bioiuiig, out of ;l single man* of stone, hut, its niy notes say, hewn out
of the met iteelf T It is surrounded by 11 coping or parapet about three
feet above the surftieo* and is at present tilled with soil to a depth of
four feet from the top. Its dimensions are eighteen foot by fifteen
feet : and it is supposed to have been fed hy one -pf the aubterreheau
aqueducts beneath the surface of the platform r to which I dmll draw
attention later on, and to have Irrigated or embdlktod a garden which
xhjiv have stretched between, the Porch and the Audi&tiro-hfill of
Xerxoa.

W* now approach the latter edifice, which inu*t undoubtedly have
been the chief glory of the original Penwpclis, whose columns gave Li
Hfti5of in medisaml times its title of €hehe! Mirmr, and whose
x™L renmbis me still Urn noblest snrvrftd of the reign of the son
rf i^ T \u*. At a distance of fifty-four yards from the Porch
of Xerxia 111 a southerly direction, and at right angles both to it ami
to the longitudinal us is of the platform, we encounter a superb a lair-
way, the finest of those sculptured adornments- th* Adi.imaeninn
counterpart to the pylons of Egypt* the tnnpinn and metope* and
frieze of the Hellenic temple, the graven walls of the great Hfictuariei
of Bud dim* and the western fttffwle of the Gothic minster—that dis-
tinguijdi Penitpolis from all other ruins, and lift the architecture oF the
age of Darius and his suceratsorfl into an order of tw pare to iMilividmilitj
and grandeur. For a total length of seventy-two yards extends the
sculptured front of tbn derated platform that sustains the audience-
hall j anti iu original height was eleven and a half feet above tlm
1 I have already* tm p. 74 * disprove*! ?riratV SWlflCb diftt ihc ■'damn it
I'l&A&rgiMlMf is I lie 10k unfltited column is Persia.

PERSIA

I «>

lower level upon which *iand the Fropyhra. Access L* gained to its
summit by four flight* of jsU'|m> two of which, projecting from the
platform, converge towards si lauding in ita centre ; the renltthdhg two
n^n-encl the platform from either extremity* north and south, Each
flight contains thirty-on^ steps* which an* ftffoeti and n Imlf feet long,
fourteiFii infill** broad* nod four inches deep, When wo moguls^ hr
wa slndh that the building to which they cfitnlticiixi wag the nudieneo-
hali of the Greal KJng n the object of the*c four sUiirwnyn to admit of
the frr®coining anil going id! she vast crowd* that thronged thither to
do him homage, is at once ap|uirent - and we may adiirim l*?th the
ingenuity and the practical wi-rlntn of the architect.

Thu front watt of tin- projecting central tEiisding that is formed by
the converging dtepv uf the middle etairwaya, cofttauiA ^•ulpturo* of a
size mul character that both dominate ami pH a tone to the
Sculpt an * p tiE|ir|i j nH | or || t i ] L r_s eontro is an oblong panel* designed to
rectsivu an epigraph which has never been inscribed—one among mmiy
imlicaiioriR tbit even the older buildings on the platform wot never
dnlfduxl, and that the Aoheeiuenian kin^ T like their more modem
*uectfSSOrft, wore either too Twin or too indolent to complete the design*
of t heir predeces sors. O n the right side three armed gin in hi, wi t h
spears and shield s, on the left side four similar apearmen with quiver**
f&co towFsrdii the empty panel. In the triaEigtilar space Mi hid each of
these groups that is formed hj the Imse angle of the flights of ateps,
is sculped mi the will] a rearing bull, with a lion whose claws and teeth
nro fixvd into it* hinder think. Tills h a subject so frequently re¬
produced hi simitar compartments oft the hi airways of Fer^npolLs* m
to deserve a puking note of examination. Some high antboritw have
disco cured therein a subtle allegorical meaning. Rtynnh for instiince*
thinks that the victory of the lion ever the hull typhia the triumph
uf the sun. or principle of hwit, over water* or the damont of moiatnrt.
But. though there Ih some ground for identifying the 1ml I with the
latter principle, f do not know dial them is any for the connection
required by the above hypothe&k lietweeii die? lion and the aum
A particular wference hm been delected by jwjiiii' to the phase through
which tin *un [ui=- a at X.« Huil Client, again, bain conjectured that
the oumW Hjnilwlilted h then between OnuUel and Alirinmn, or the
principle and *vil P tlm lion representing the pemimous and

destructive power the answer ic which* of course^ i» that on pnlacca
adorned with the sculptured ptaises of OnnuMb the victory of his
adversary Is hardly likely to have lrf?cn pourtmyed, More probably
the comlwit is merely a symbolical representation of the conflict* so
frequently depicted in other forms on the neighbouring walk, between
the king and various horrid nioiixtcr* that dispute his royal power. T.c

SKijmsafts UTMttcms ism rntrunit or e.xu. vt ikihw

n:i£si;riJtxs am* mtiiku iu ln*

lloti I- llie emblem of triumphant majesty : tin* bull typMea powerful
but vanciuiaUwl furce.

Wo now pnxs to dm main wall of the terrace* whose pmccuionji]
bas-reliefs supply us with a clue to the rerenionies tliiil were enacted
upon its ^aiuiuit. In three long lines or kmtk they fctrateh
-luiin tt away to right Etml left, toward h the tmuinnl sttntw** ’

So itNL although the full height 4 if llip platform hits been reduced,

and the integrity r if dm uppermost row ut figure* ha* been sadly im-
paired, by a mutilation that Inm mwn them right in twain* leaving
only the lower halves of tlit- lioditKi depidsl At either end the angle
formed by the* steps is filled with an identical lion and bull ; the group
at the I'Ebl^m extremity* owing to Eta having I men buried for infinv
■centuries beneath die soil, retuhdug a wonderful and brilliant freshness
of outline. Next to these triangular panels, at either end, come
tablet* fur inscriptions. My notes record that time on the eastern side
hits la-en obliterated ; 1 but the was torn ^nopartiuotit contains a euaeh
form inscription, combining o dedication to * humwl with the name of
* Xcm-s, the lirem King, the King >«f kings, the «ms of Dnrius* Uw
king, the Aduemeninn , 1 a From this panel the triple row of figures,
already spoken «f t «u'Ii * little o ver three feet in height, march towards
the centre; while a corresponding procession advances from the left,
or opposite wing. The** two seta of group* very dearly represent
different dafisos ol individuals- Those upon the left with knees and
urntH, and musical iubtrumenks accompanied by chariots mid Ihiwh,
ate manifestly the counters and guards of the in runt Km^ l hoe
upon the right, on rise other hand, nubdivided into smaller groups
by sculptured likened* of cypres-trees typify P hy their differing
physiognomy nod etutuniHw, the various nationalities from which they
were drawn; and by the object* which they escort or cmivey, vit p
oxen, rams, asftcs, camels fruits, vaiCBj jmls, nnd offerings

in gen era I the homage ^r trib ute of subject people*. There can be
very little doubt, therefore, that we have hem deplete*! the
observance that toot place annually in the palace above, at such time
as the fireat King mine to IVwpulis at the vernal equinox* or No
Uu*. to receive the reports of his officer** acid the tribute nf his, sub-
jwts i just as were chiselled upon the frieze of the Fan he lien at Athens
the less serious splendours of the Pfuiathenmic pm-ft&iou*

Tthi And now having mounted to the upper level of dm

**kam* platform, we Approach the most notable external object*
among the ruins wiser*

1 M i'cml (p* C!Pfl> *ay# ittat it mw r contained an hwriptSoti; but ibk t
think i* wrong.

' v hl* BawlliUHn, Spk^i, Oppcrt, and VVcUbacli in ihc kcnlitki hef«»

Those tilliris gmnitfl pillars, unot higtwt^

bi- In PcTHpdli to hear

II;* Jsl-u 1 '*;, lauw. "mill tbiilr broken SlljjIiEft ofdta]*,

U» pmliO, i-normotiis down the lflimiUftllL-Bldr,

PERSIA

And vK that they i}o not nil m lie tin- photogrnphFi will show, an-1 wt-
can still, amid a olmH of wilful destruction. most thankfully pen t^it.
Thu columns tlmt at ill survive, albeit in a sadly mutilated condition,
edntig with the jet visible liases of otlion* that have long ago fallen or
dijiappenra], reveal to hh the plan of the building, It consisted af a
centra 1 hall supported by six raws nf dx cotmm*Ji each, with advanced
porticoes on three of itft rides, north p cab t, and west, containing two row**
of six cfitamnsp ouch, or n grand lotal of sevenl-y-two columns. Of tln&e
thirteen are fcliU utandiiig. 1 No plan that- I have hithertoi iwti (that
which Gte^oinpanitei this chapter baa bwn drawn under my own S untrue-
lions) placid diean in their right poaxtion^ To a victor approaching
from the north or principal staircase tiny am: ( 1 ) In the north portico,
tile third from the rigliLtti the outer row : f2) in the ■mnlml hall, the Outer
most oo the left in the lintt, now. the second fn>m the right hi the thin I
row t and the third from the left its the fourth row ■ pi) in the mm
portico, the third and fourth from the north in the outer row, nod the
second and third in thi* in ner row ; ( 4 ) in the west portico the first*
jifth, ami sixth from the north in the outer row, and the third and
sixth in the inner mw + T n many or her e&ata the Kas«\> are still stand i ng.
with fragments of tha shatterod drums lying hard by. Tim interior
surfaces of the latter* where they wore originally Joined u* each other,
am ej. am with and level ns on the day when they were planed, md the
hola arc visible in them that contained the dowel*, by which they werv
held together- The second anil third in the outer row of i he west por¬
tico struck me at first n* being those that must have fallen anoat
recently (and that made Up the total to fifteen at the beginning of the
century) + since the broken fragment*, of their shafts are still lying where
they fell 5 hut a reference to the page* of Ker Porter shows me that
this was a false inference, rinee the two uddirionut survivors In hi* day
belonged to the central group, and not to either of the porticoes Ir is

1 The aur^, ih+iugli gmJu*h pPOOS* of decay ij lllujrlriiT ixl by tin- ■ m - w -
dwEnjdHjng number of column# that Sunn been recunlail by travellers at difTcoint

(ItDcs during the lout there n'oturlF.-,and winch 1 Lave ^Llhcrnd from my nan i rip.
Tlgaeroa (1*119) reported Sfl, D»Ua Vatic (1621) Hfl, Efertort 19, UiiniliMo

(l€3d) 1% Tavefitlor ^ H appear* doubtful whether Le jirtunlly vhEI^iT

the rnpot n r Dxallw-fh*lai*lre {IMS} Jo, CbaMin fdre 10T0) 20 {ffi

only bi his musImlLon]. Fryer (ItfT?) IS, Kaviiipfcr (KWH) II, \m Brun (ITCH : a 1 .*
iccfcnrlih - the lWO in PrOpylra], Niebuhr (17C4J) IT, Franklin (\7&7) In,
Morfar (U») IB, Cnneky (l&m Ifi. Putter (W&) l&. Rida (mi) 15, Hr IS.*1*
(tail) LS, HLnnliik- fl*W) 13- Vm&m (S6id) IS* MuUOMjy (IftSC) 13, «a Ea &
It It will W that wmal of Ihcse writer* tiare iiiai| d

PERSETOUri, AMP I limit RUINS

t vtJiiiLt irons the capitals still in ***** ill n nscsro or Ira* mutilated «m-
rJiiioii, ciiul fpijiu the rpiisiiinn of nth fc ni Unit lie bfllow, tlmt tlio two
Ai'hjnniniLi.in orders woro both rnps^esentod its this fabric* In tin? front
portico and irs the central luiU, thn culunias wore surmounted by the
composite or triple capita.?, terminating in two do nsi-bull it* wlio*c
hollowed iif^ks tfupjiortiM:! the aidiitniTB, in the mm**- manner as in the
Porch of Xerses The shaft* nf the oe pillars are fornud of three block*.
I n the two 1 ntens I porticoes the eirapW type of wipitah caissLling only
of bulL" heads, uttperjtopn&od upon n shrift of fmir blacky prevail* ;
nJthough even here this iLUfnuncliiELire Li not striotiif nceurah? T jjn.«in^
thnl in the ea-t portico the juiiusal*' heads depicted Aliens to hnve been
unicorns and siot bulls. All the tioventy-twn columns, without oxcerp-
litmK, wore flu led. and nil were of the snue height 1 Those in the
rimtml linll tested upon a simple squared plinth i those in the [lortHfHtfi
had :i more ornate circular base, resembling that of the column* in the
J/rupvluia, which has soruetjines been oempand to mi in varied lotsis-
llowor, but L morn correct It rieserilK’d a* a belishapwl bli>rk„ adorned
with long loaves, the points of which art 1 Mimed iIijwnwiifrK

The outer porticoes HR* 140L feet lung, by T Jft md UmaiL A di-s-
buuK of 71 fert Mspunito* them from the cetsrral hull j but hwfeween the
ttirimn- north portico and the latter ate four massive substructure
« g ' 1 " tils- meaning nf which fa not dcarJ* We thou enter the great
hall itself, through and around which were traced by Flimdin and
Qmo the relics of sttbterr&iuu aqueducts* The exterior dimension*
of this hall, which was. doubtless, tin 1 chief glory nf Ferae pal is, are t 4 ip
foot in each direction* or not fur abort of a square of W yards, 1 I t

1 Pcrgu^iR (p, 1G3), aborting the j^ntef ap^^nt height of the roimsmi* *vf
Use pnrtsr/i^ Usjtn nf ibosn of the ccciml Ksall, mid inli-mi^ (rnonrosuU. I think)
that tJw latter dEd not have t>ni bidlHMpftsIa, Invent* a i^nicuLaj kind of capital
for thorn, *o an to redrew the inerptalitv. Me jfivi** the if itftettrifona i>f she portico-
reltzmitji ■* fiTj frijt high to the top of She bolls beftd*, G4 feet to the hollow ef
thi'ir nt^ka: shaft, H f«sl 1U facta* high. feet in diameter at bun, IJ fwir at
the tup h I«um^ &* fr-h t hijfh i cajtfLiK 7 f«t Wgh, IS free S itirhra hnvid ; Utel of
Uin hall-colnoiriH jhafl. 41J feet iii^-h ; triple mpIlMi IGj frrl ht^h_ Ker Porrrr
idTEn Lhc QBmliff ftf Qutitlin A.* M I 'hi-. !-,v. \n% flandin and ghe >'■

t.nicbt ftH feet 10 Snch^. and dhtanM ffum uxL I j atif. 2Pf^L

1 Co*!*, in hi* re^toraihin, niid P*irol Inaj* m^-ptH-4 thi* Pug£efl|hm,

Uial ibtm! mat 1 have anpporled eoh^pal fifnarc* of bull* Fi-fcn— i-t, ard f-Elif-r*
har* rn^jiTiSfid them at tlir \vt44'* nf di’Nsfways

< Kcruij^ .u (pp, JTO-1) Rtyn that It wnlaiard *0,000 M-juAr^ Jwl. nif, with f! -
wall* (which are M* aura cusutJau % AddEnjt to Uhw. ^ks

^juikffl fn-rt^ and trantd-ntiniB S,si|^3n itnaginory) e.84.Kl h he ftfrivi^ it l Ja lylal i j
105,000 ^miro f«si. lie then gives Hr- dlmeiniiimi. of ths* fuuoiu buSHing* ..f
undent ansi modpm tiuu-tj cir rat Hat! at Karmsk + -Ami tqatre tM Ifishi**
mjm + lull|p ami rjonh-.n**; TcsapSo ad OlyaipLnr. Keui uE AliienH. 50,000. ,.i
Ajrri^nlum, itj.OtM) I Culcpne Cfltlicdnd. ft 1,500 : Milan Cathedral. inj.sOiS; amt

* i

PElitflA

ini

Uinv nol inaptly ipared m ik < In - |>i LIutttI hn|| 4 ftf K:Lmitk OH l ii"

Nild , elihI it tniibt r l iit my judgment, Imve been a more artistic structure,
-ime. in spit*' of the vainhmu^ disproportion of it-* capital^ mid its Wk
of the vuiiril sculptiiros that adorn the surface of thy Ei'yptiaii pilLui n,
it ^ sLiperiiotn.1 amt wa& 1ms crowded* jmd iLh interlacing vktn.-i wero
eotiaef|U0iitly less obstructed than ha the temple of the Thothmes,

Them remain two important t|Ut^tioia« that arc suggcatad by the
Hall of Xerxes, ami that havn hitherto becEi salved in uccorclnoce with
IVtiLSphi the preconceived theories of write ek, mtlmr fkn from data
"fnill- collected nti the spot, The linsfc hi that of the wall&j the
vecond is that of the roof. Was lln L centra! Imli AOrrouaded by walls;
mill wiktf it coiunwtifd by walla with the fKirtioocSj mj m to f irm o^p
great ipiru!riintern! f IVrgu&snn cIiuje eoEiceiws il T Uouml the hall*
and framing thy pt.Krti.eoea at either emJ r he plums in his rratonition
n wall of crude brick eighteen feet thick with windows and niches
aiinilar in shape to those which wo a hall presently observe in the
Palace of Drains* Thu angle* at either end of the north portico tie tills
with imaginary guard-rooms, similarly constructed. Now it ia true, m
far ns 1 knmv p tfmt them is no other iieitauce, in Persia or elsewhere
(hut amid whar a paucity of cognate remains), of porticoes standing in
cntin? independence of tlie cent ml fabric to which structurally they
I belong. To this extent may we regard with suspicion the tr-st oral tons
of Cosfe nnd Chipiex It h nitM true that the majority of t3»e
remaining buildings on the platform appear to have hail walk. But
the very fact that the Indestructible remnant* of then- wall* there
survive : lhat t though mud and brick have wanted In nothing, vet
the * to Etc porta Is* rund window euaeq, and niches, in every vum retnuin
ht ***** ; whilst m the Hal! of Xerxes there is not the faintest vestige
of window, niche, or door—is to my mind an unanswerable argument
against the coreitreetioii at any time of n semi Car enclosure with stone
lit dags here. It k inconceivable that, if such hud existed, it could have
wholly disappeared. Perguasoti meets this difficulty by supposing a
wall of mud trick* only, faced with emmielM tilctc, Not the 3^t
Croc* of either has how r ever beers discovered ; and there jpeem* no
n'ii^-Kii why stone should have been employnl in all the other waifs, and
not in thi*. b^urthorraore, walk of tuch a character anti dummaictis
would have deprived the building of the particular individual it v which
it Appmn* to have claimed. and would have interfered with its main

conclude* bj say lag: * Takas all in all HOi* Cathulnl k, porhapo, the huhdiog
tJwt rawmbk* it nwftp IwUi In wiyje mid slid general character of the affect it
iuuH bare produ^d un thr upcetater/ TbL* U the kind of appreciation thnt
could en]j Imvif hero writicn by a critic who bml never wu the pkicu he wins
.WcribltLg.tifld pm-a plavcr Eo bti uvn iht^KH-TiCif rcc^nUrucrjoEk Aj nrtiBrahly
nr- COD]pan.' Wratmiiutrr Abbey with the l a) n l Agra,

IKI^KKiIM AND OTHER it DINS

Iffi

nrchilcctumJ purpu*it, No one now bcauitK to deny—the wulplures
mitred may be mid tpj lutvc proved it —that this was the Great Hall of
Andicnoc, the linpurijtl Tnlur or Throne Room t of the Kin" of kiug~.
H«ne r upon n throne and under it canopy* similar to tlrfise which we
aboil presently observe depicted uj m\ Uie graven doorway* of the other
palfli'e*, he sat In mtiite to see and to lw seen of hi* people. bp the
htoirwiL^ minil through the porticoes nnd bntween the pillared aide*
I hey thronged to do him homage, Hrmul ^pacc imri light, free range nf
vision mid movement, wire required. Majesty was not called upon to
L'Oiiiipa! ite radiance, but mtlicr to riJutic before all men. Nor is there
miy difficulty in supply Lug the fsobEtilutv for wall* mid doom, tlint nniy
IMV!? been needed to cheek Of to faeiliLute ingress and eglta-i, anti Epp
update the light. There is, gif at continuity in the Enat. The due to
n distant antiquity sometimes stares ns in the face at our threshold ;
mid in the fnhtn or throne mm in of the modern Pendjui king*, from
Shah Abbas downward*, n.H t have dravribcw} thfeta at Tdimm nnd
Isfahan, wo have dimples of royal audience hulls, where the monarch
displays himwlf to the assembled multitudes, and where the interior
rt f the npartmt nt i* vniln! or sluLihd hy the desteromt use of ojm»
bmidored tapestries and cnrLuco. Nay more, if so modern an
.illustration la k regarded with atupiehm, have wo not, iti a contemporary
document of the highlit nuiliuntiaty, a record of the precise system cf

d.. to which 1 allude ' At Bliudiati or Btjsa, where ww* the

winter jju bice of the same princes, whose more solid erections wr are
lum examining, E in the court of the garden of the kings palace won*
white, green, mid blue hangings fitstened with cords* of fine linen and
purple to silver rings and pillars of nimble-/ * Without, therefore*
accepting an full measure Die mtorations of either of the French
nriUts liefore mentioned, and without peremptorily denying that wall-,
of some hind may have united the central hall wit la it* latere!
colonnades, I feet that a closer u|>proximnDon to the Truth is probably
to be found in tJieir hypothec - than in those of the English authority Y
ami that whatever lids great fabric limy have h*A* : d like wlico Xcrxt^
held therein liis glittering tfurAam, it oa^uredly did nut iwfflble m tle j
Icjist degrre Urn hypothetical racMuitruction of Fm-guvon.

A similar pnwess of reasoning, starting fmm the premise of what
actually is or vPi%b Y ratlier than what might or ought to have been,
iu I idiouhi, I think* be applii^boLh here nnd in Ihc rvliiaining
Per-u'jMiiTitan places, to the question of mobs Thtire cmnor
lie i doubt, from the hollowed centre of the bicephalous capitals in
this cow, an le>^ than fruin Die invited uiurtise joints in Die apgtf^punx
of same of the other Htrueture*, tbit they were made to receive an

1 Kithcr i- &* &.

mmiA

nrvhitmve or roof-beara. Thw can hardly have been of stone, for tin*
rrauuma llint the pillars arc neither stout enough nor close enough to
Ins. vl- supported the weight, that not n fragment of any- such ceiling \uu*
ever I wen found, and that the idea is foreign to thewgnatoiinliit&rtural
On the other hand we havm in the Jitatementn of the O reek
biatoriaiu, notably of Quint ok Curtins, ■ the best possible grounds for
believing that the rollings of the P*rn*!|MiUtaiii pu Incus w ere of cedar :
u fo,ct which hitfl Inteli eurrotorated by the discovery of traces n£
ihui nmtfuiiil upon tile platform itself. That this nwpf* m* eonatmoted
were covered over and protected from the elements by ji Inver of
rammed clay, appears highly probable from the analogy of Persian
Shi tiding for many centimes posh find would seem to liftve been re-
ijuirnni by the E&igenripA of the dilute. In the absence,, however^ of
liny direct evidence I prefer neither to theorise nor to dogmaltsp upon
this paint, Por similar reasons J would reject the andndotli theory
with regard to the roofs of the Aclm inrniun jinhicea that vu started
by FergusBOn. Ffucncdiiig upon the soliuiry analogy of the rode-
ACttlptures above the royal tom to nt Nnk^h-i’Kmttam and behintl
Pi^iMfltfij where| upon u roof resembling the elevation and facade of
the neighbouring palaces, the king in depicted* for devotional purposes*
standing upon a twofold .stage or throne* he imagined that Lids scene
whk a precise reproduction of the principal secular edifices on the plat-
form ; and even went w far n& to declare that + it admits of no doubt
that there were sfn^sl <m the roof of the pn linen as on the tom bn/ h
is sullident to sny that beyond the fanciful analogy Alluded to there is
not a ntagte argument worthy of the name in favour of *udi a conten¬
tion. 2 It is a- though some future critic wrn- n nvni from Nubim's
Column in Trafalgar Stjuaru to any other Corinthian column of th«-
Georgbm age that might lie found at a tater date in 41 mutilate J or
stunted condition.

Passing through the Id all of Xerxes from north to south, and pur*
suing the order that will naturally to followed Try most visitors* fnoi-

r *• .vf step5. wo next c&m^ at a slight distance to the sou tin to
iWiuii another and much smaller* hut uho a more |>cMVrt building,
Ui which the inscriptions upon it have Seen re&ponslbk* for giving the
lil Ip of the Palace of Darius This atrueture consists of a cuntrnj hall,

1 Airs. I',* vii r &. " Mu 111 a redra ariiliiuita enl trgia^ ijLut* iaHdter,

con'S"|im. Intq fmbt hureudiauC Lctamm and Taunt**, thu grtal Mrlv^Dirlng
nAlx^icsi of the ondunt 'ftmrld, Wf ru coaiHsclEtrl by wtdl-tnvhtaii earavaa routes
with Persia.,

* ITifri however* ftrpiMn'i own nfnlcfticnl of Che cfljie + pp. llti-UI, Ifi7-70 T
ISO. Ilftd Mach ft *ecood itcrey exurted, sieftDl mwst Have enisled fit awreading to
it. Hat though every ulbttr iUEraktti Ik 1 platform k* wholly or la pnTt pit**
thorp is not the remotest trace -of any mirh a wept!» a higher floor.

CGHtuT Gtf KREO J3U aiums - TAUC* ekt I? Ami *

PKRSEPOLIB, AMt OTEMHI IU 1 X 8

supported by hixteen columns in four mwa of four each, with a portico
Ai eight column*, in two corresponding mw* on t-fii> hquIJi front. him l
with trace* of what apparently were churn I pc ra on Liar longer aide* and
xit ill!' bark, Thii is tlm only building on the plnLforni Unit faces to¬
ward* the ^miSj ^ juu! llirn? two Efigljl.i of .-i-tcpa, onO at either end of
Uif> lemce on wLik’h it stand*, furnished the principal means of accWi
In later times a, third rttuirciise wa* added, and another eutnuieorJfrctcd
oj i the west si do, overlooking tin; brink of tho nmi n pin (form and tho
pin in 1 3i Mcrvdaaht, To a vigitor approaching., as we are doing* from
the north this will lie tho natural mode of entry ; and I nil I therefore
take the building, mi to spook, in the tmv „ and describe it tlierefroii],
step by sbep,

Hie entire idifice stands upon a stylobate or platform, nearly ten
foot higher than that of the I i u rbarvl l id I of Xerxes. Its
1 ' dimensions n re I'121 fiwt long bv feel broad. 1 A *■: ending
U'o email double stairway on the west front, wo observe a partly Imried
in(wjription on the wall of the platform i while on the frrmi wall of the
stftirwajj Hanked by the famtlhir lion and hull in either spandrel, ii& a
tnldet containing a splendidly preserved inscription,. tell jug m that
this staircase was the work of Arnixorso* TIL or QchuJ (n_C- 361 33®)t a
L<] yearn posterior to the edifice itself. At tho top of the stops wo
P*® tlirough a doorway, the side-walls of which have shifted on their
(probably owing to earthquake) and are inclined Inwards each
olIot. Continuing through a small antechamber or porch* a second
doorway introduces ua into tho central hall. On either jamb of this
4|[j)»rffjlj (which, like ita pmloc^r, appears to have IjoL'ft A structural

Li Iteration of Artaxerxes) h sculped one of those symbolical combat*
between a king and a monger (at different times u bull, n unkura, a
grirtiu, or n srt range compound of opposite uttrihutca) which wo flhflU so
frequently notice in thu remaining buildings. In all these I ms' reliefs
tJie king with ^irt loin*, but in an nlmoEutflly unconcerned fashion, 4Uid
w <Ui frigid uniformity of attitude, plunges a dagger Into the belly of
tho in cruder, which rears on its hind legn before him, but which he
ardaUdy grasps by tin* hom projecting from its haul.

Owing to tho introduction of this (probably Inter) onirttnco* them
h an unmmal lack of uniformity hi the strui^unl disposition of the
f^ntnij antral hall. Its dimensions, which are a square of fifty
ll#tl feet, iw* dearly marked by th-- existence an rim of a number

*ii immense block* of chiselled stone, during n high potijdip J and

1 t take those Jignre* torn Fergunon, Farter **tr \T& feet by and arothcr
wriii'f l?MI by tH?. * Rawlll^un, / ft A ^ , v!jl r k. p, SIS; SpLevel, pp, fu*-7l.

* If mast iKen In Ihl# bulkyJaf that Hob riiSrn J Hpurrna'i mastiff, fmm
atcliij^ ItwEf ttUrdd in the mi mu’-like paliih of the waili, became so fariaus
l hat it has I tfj tpr chaiciDid up- whflnft cnOroJ,

PERSIA

108

coloured almost black with exposure, which stand detached from each
other iil I round th+“" line which wo rnuj iumjiile^ to have l«wn occupied
bv the walla of the budding, In which they const it □ ted the principal
feature. SdLiic tfi them—the largest nnd loftiest are doorwny*, with
projecting fluted cornice ; the smaller an- either pierced lui windows in
sdmit light, or sire hoi low id into tins form of niche* or hMc Ac#, which
to this dciy remain tins favourite Persian form of mumJ decoration,
beside supplying n receptacle for oruaiuoats or f ami tyre, On tin?
north wide of the hall are two datirwbjK ami throe niches ; on thv west
side, two doorways and two riches ; on the east side, one doorway and
three niches; on tlie south side* or original front, one doorway and

PALACE or UAim-A

four windowiL In this doomy is sculped Another ftimilmr Ache-
menmy group, vvl the king pacing out of the paJiteo with the mwd
parib^nl held by two attendants above his bend . 1 On the floor are
tmeesaf the Rul^tructsm of what were once sixteen entumrus that
supported the roof, but a{ the plinilu, -bafts, ar capitals of which m
relics hive been found. 3 Outside the wall with the windows, eight
similar column.-, adorned a portico, the east mwl west walls of which
contain each a doorway and a niche, besides a gigantic monolith or

1 inn11leg Miys Ihal lb* fing* hcmUdnro [p jHfrforatpd with min wren** -mull
hollas though for nail* to fruirii plates oj gutd erAQiac other ^uhnantt- upnn k.
tdo not think that .nay other writer ban noticed this.

* Hftn€r tly ' inference* in which Me have Lnctulfl^h thal r like the cofnmni oF
the Ai’limtrienian palace at Schauma. they m*rt mode of wood.

PEfiSbmMK AM' OTHEtt lil IXft

it&i

angle-pier, twenty-two ffftt high (immediately at the summit of the
two mu in flights of utepi), the incised grooves in the summit of one
of which bet ray to this day the imuiner iu which the beams nf tli« ri^«■]”
rested upon them, Un tho suiter side of t Jo* portico, a a nlso on either
-adc of the central 1mlI, ami again liehind the 1 niter—i-e, on the norths
are the soiorwhiil obscure traces of what appear to have Ihvu rsjmti -
iueoiIh of grottier or less dlmeoMeni.

The Palme of Barius is unusually rich in LnieHptioim, First may
lie merit hned those which are rapoiiAit&fc for iu tminiv They run in
nnrrow line* round the htirdero of the wins low-frames and
inches. or are ch Ladled in triple tablets above the bas-reliefs
on ihe inner mlIoh of the doors. The great angle-pier in the south-west
tinier has aIs*- been n favourite li. h| for the sculptor. Hern is a
cuneiform uisiriptioii wltifh toils un that ()nriu« ilid not finish thin
pftlaci'j hut 11 11 l[ it wji ■ toinpIcEriJ hv his son Xerxes. Here* atao, is
ik Kutic i nsen ptiun, audit Persia a grAoi* f, or otfe„ that was inscri^l by
iSliltnn I hr; lIii n i, the son «f Slink J X Lihh. mul gntfideull rjf Timilr.
I hi id by* ns if to mark a uiero Aliphatic anticlimax, a |iatriotic
citizen of Shiraz. thirty year* ago. cut two tang inscription* Iti honour
of Nlwi.hI Pin ft hah. It Sj* oil the south doorway «f the aarne

Imtkiing that were engraved PebUsvi inscription* of Shnpur J],
and IIL, wJitdi I have previously noticed. Xor have* the modern* lan-n
IjtEi infill.mfI iu their meaner liut withal not meaningless epigraphs.
There are several names dating from about the year I7C0. On the
main north dunrw&y is a Hong list of the English company Lhat jmioyfj
wItli Colonel J. Sl«rilennM i^ird. M. Kinneir) in 1 K ’JU : ami on one
of the western niches ] olttiorveib from Ins signature, that my friend
Professor Vamln-rv hud al*o suvcnmhrfl to. die temptation of the nui>
roundings.

An I have in id, tlm main mitnince in tJsr Mac? of harm- u.-yi m*
the south ; juuI here the excuTOTiaun of Hum lie and Crate, fifty years
SkuHj ago, laid Imre the sculptand inscriptions which had been
-i:*ir*Ti» only imperfect l v seen snd deseriltfd by the earlier truvdler*.
As In the Great Jhdl of Xerxiw. *o here, the front of the stylobate or
platform was richly carved. Two prove-sioiss of omed warriors* with
gigantic lances and with quivers un their backs, inarch towanij n
eentml panel, which, like two others at the outer extremities, contain
h mnmform repetition of die joint authnrdnp nf Dunn* and Xerxes,
At either enti a flight of steps abroad** the platform, the lirm ami bull
appearing on the outer triangle formed by the slope, while on the
inner wall it raw of admirably iwivihI figures mounts the staircase
along with the visitor.

Like prerlece.^ir. tilt* wlmrEtire suggests two ipirMiulit the
polutiuti of mu- of w hicli relate* to itself alarm ; while the other con-

170

PERSIA

eernfl squally rvN the cditicr* upon the platform, Firstly, then, what
was liar character mid object of thin hlllMing ! It id toil mal) to have
I'lwKtir h'vn n public lutll oF audience. On the other bud, the sur-
..r heiMieK phi nding etwnbe^ itiui itpnnmcotji apjwnr to sugge&t t\w
attribute* of a rv&iilcnctt. Those* only who entertain the outworn
hUUcy that Forsepolts wm n coltrctl®Ei of sanctuaries or palace-tern plea,
will ngroc with Ff^gnsson that they may havo bwo 1 devoted to priestly
mysteries, perhaps chapels/ Them is no ground whatsoever for such
tu Mief. On the other hand, if, an is now gcnemlly supposed, this was
the private H-miencr nf the k li: l. 1 . im the ivision of hfa annual visits
to PrrficjNjUs (and we ran well tindtfrstcmd the advantages of a southern
n« llL1 1 k. k in the doubtful warmth nf an early Persian spring tide) t I
neverthnlwis eannoi rrodit, from w-hal t have su^;±i or read of Eastern
modes of lift* that anything like sufficient accotmuodation can have
existed here both for the monarch. for UU neeftEstuy guards \uul
Attendants^ and for the royal harem./ I diould fed disposed therefore
to think that it must have been the official rf^idfuKra of the sovereign*
where he transacted bia private bu&mcH, ate Ilia meals, or enjoy H
repose - but tliat the manifold equipage and accompaniment of the
seraglio—the wives, concubine*, female slnvi-s, nurses, diildren and
eunuchs—miMt have been accommodated in mm& other and neighbou r-
i ii nr building. 1

The raemtd and whirr vocation U tliat of the nature and material
of the walls, that must unquestionably have united the util! surviving
Qttatktan doorways niches, and window*, no t in. this palace only, but
, r w * ,fi m the oilier edifices on the platform that present simitar
features. I say unquestionably, not merely on o priori grtmnda, but
Ihiuijhj opi the inner sides and surfaces of the sfc nnn monoliths juat
menttuned :m? nnmi stall able 1 rnei ■ i.f iheir original juncture with walls

1 TcxIkt, In hia ptales and (rxt* bokUv so dsacrfbcfl tl ,

1 That the « hcm*r of the wmapa + ami the * king* hoaw 1 ware separate in the
time of die Aohemtmtiui king* Es nvidcwl from Either ii, LE and v. l„ We are
reminded very fcicJhly by the arrangement of thu buLhiiiiff on the Pcrarpol i iati
platform of another ScripttLtnl analopr -rf* r the !lou«! of the Ifafrat of Letenoa,
which wa* built an it palace, Or of palaces, hr afioLlnr fzn»l Asiatic

Itiribirqh J5O0 l^furc. 1 {He built in npcm four row* of cm!nr p£llar* p with
vmlar bean** Ihc plllur*. And it was, covered wilh r«iar shove upoo the

hnwi% that by on forty* five pillars, fifteen in a mw. Anri the w we re windows in
three fowii. Bind light wms agaJnst UrLi m Ihr^c ranks. And all the doom and
jnnt* were ivtaanp With the w[ad0WB. And ho made a j^rch c?r pilots, and the
porch Was before them, and ihc other plllon amf iho thick beam wena Kforc
1 ho til. Titen In’ ncLdti a pon.’h for the ihroac, he might jud^c,. overt iho

of judgment: and if war mveretl with cedar rroui one Mdr of the iri^r t a
thf other. And hEs honso whom bo dwelt hud soother court within (he porch,
tabErli was of the like work. Solomon made, aU> t nti hou^jfl far FharsohV
liaaghtcr, whom he \ml tak^a to wife, Uk* ^nln this porch “ (| KLngs viL l-H L

PERSETOU*, \M> miJKR RUINS

171

of 'UifltluT material. Though polished tu a glnn^y snto^hni. 3 ^ an their
ottter surface^ they arc always litre loft rough, in airier to facilitate
tin- iidiiejiian af a lighter Hub-itcitici?. A* to the nature of iIlIhe,, I have
never [iiys-tilf, wineu liaving travelled mhumwIiiU widely III the East, l>#-en
able to share the doubts that have found favour with ninny otiu-r
wo U rn, Tluit t he walla wore neither yf Atone, nor, a* Chncsri Rawllnson
thinks, of small stones* or rubble, is evident from the ubsfcncu of mn
the slightest trace tjf any such tnnteriftl, dither io blocks* chip*, or frag¬
ments That they were not of kiln-burnt bricks i*, T think. clear,
IseeauEe clay that has parcel through the tin■ is among the most im
perkhaUf* of ; tvnd here again only the moat uillnitchimikl

Tin».r‘H of Milch bricks have ever tw^su discOvCr+^l an the pi i it form. But
that they were of anudiicL brick* nr crude mad I Ventura to think,
nl-idulidy vermin, both from analogy, nuefaut and modem* thu paluces

nst" Nineveh, Babylon, arid Susa having all alike itaan constructed,
and umd-brick* being to this day the staple of every Persian house,
from the palnre of tlm fi&verdgn to tlm meanest hovel of the peasant ;
a till Ijccuum 1 in thb manner, and ill tlik only call We account for l he
total disappearance ef the PettSepoIitan walls, which, jlr soon or decay
had inet it* linger upcti the place, and the platform had ceased to be
occupied* would in a few score of years, much more in hundreds and
Tlmmiandis have been swept a way by rairw and itorimi, or washed down
into tho heaps of iTitid thnt still enenmbur the surface. Fergnsson, though
he i^drimi ti> some such conclusion liiru^ctf, describes it as a * bathos
in nrt, 1 When we remember the extraordinary ingenuity and skill
displayed by tin Eastern peoples front iTie time tif Wermachonb to that
of Me- present Shah* in dcctintting tin* -.isiym”-*- f mud-walk either with
|ilanl4ir t ps tin ted and decorated* 1 or with glazed in (I cnmir-lhal till 1 *, 1 do

1 In l-hc p^kliLi qf Itabjloa hi k-nrn Irem Ku^Ed (EXfiJ. Hi tlmt th«re were
* liiLMi pOartiuyed upon the wall*, the imuetfr of i lie UhnliLivab* |xmfi rayed with
Venn 10On, girded with girdle* upon tliinr loin*,exceeding in dyed a* tire upin Li*rjr
b> Eilj, al! id tin li jifinr-Lj lei limt to, after thu manner of ihr Rabyluniun* of
Clin^lucm. 1 Tin: iii^ticn n£ colour on ihi’ ptialtrd sulfate of I he wall* Irani*

u» t.j im; tiii cm tl» bJItgaihm of mm* outberittefl tlui glldLng and colouring were
largely employed nt Ptraepolk, even upon tim fleulpnmd ttone, ti^eral of th*
i-nventeentb-Oflfti&rj tnvrClirfS made of rogmted this iwwltlom JLcrlart (p. l&l!)
raid: "in >mac olher pEoci-x 1 tic gold wb’i lluil wn- kid ajwfl tho Fni-7 anil
i Vamljh, as k also* upon lliD Irim of VisUi, wi* also in jui pi^rfccl biti? sn it jl ]i|il
l>ecr. but tH-wJy dune/ than]in (lx. Jl7) ttcordnl Lrnccp of gilding in the omick
farm in*criptloun. JJflq]ier-l>i^Landc»i fp, fil) said; * II pnmiit esoom A plu^icura
dr < I-* amctlra qitli om dori>i_ r Cf, Kaempfer, p, ilm t.tlmr hand,

n*i aanMsqnEin viiuEnr has nmdu or mdonid Lhe dUwrery, with Um ninglr'flverp-
iitm rtf filter, in whndcdnrzd (vol- ii- pp. IM-l>fi) that bo found traces of

gilJfd dEa|icrlng oa Kune uf the robe-* of the king, add ili.it tht MrigiEULl lmet-
_-mund of I lie Ima-rvl re £ji wUi btnc h lie* ncaOlrdiliglj tnnke? a f Uni L Fu I" iip-n both of
ciliSinir and i.'nl.-nr (as do Flxmdin and ftiatr) in hi> mutoimtiufijN 1 ndvdir-4 vrfy

PERSIA

not think that we ahull endurw this: phrase. At Pai^polu the- funnel-,
rather than the liitinrtjfjw o f surface diHsomtinn would tippoir to bu
1 m*oti mainly employed - w but very few fragments of tiles having nrr
been picked up OIL the plat for ld # and thrive ill t hi- main of doubtful
tmtiqofty. At tfusa tii*> revert# wnu> the case : but at Smot tm* rhr
main body of the? interior walIs appear* to have l^tin of atm-co, coloured
ml, a ml adorned with tapes! rm* and hanging*. Lntor ftrravatimiti at
Persepolis in the big heaps of debris between the palaces nmy peri nips
I j ring to light additional evidence-, but [ doubt whether, broadly speaking
they will invalidate the aLrave oonclusiiflJ

Before leaving this part -raf the platform, I tuny nbaerro that i»m itk
outer edge, to the north-west ol the Fcdaci' nf barium. jin> trace- of a
PnlnbL 4if building, ^ TAt oou-tl by Nkbdiin and marked by flnqdui nod
Artrii CcBte. Though too iiuEctcrtninnte in form and sire to Ju-t in
leraw ill. theorist ruction, it him been uttmeti by mmr writers to )**
the ■ House of the Women* 1, Continuing in n, direct line smith froni
the Palace of I hiriti.s, we arrive nt (ha ruin^ of a building oeeapjiiig
the extrema south-west comer of the upper platform, where the latter
rbas with adw edge aljove the lower or southern unoreupiei Iri eL
Aceess is gained to this ruin by a mutilated double stairway c -n the
north face, 3 upon the front of which are a row of processional tijrure*.
and two cuneiform inscriptions, similar to those that we have Been on
tin- western stairway i.f the P»Wc of Itarius* They proclaim the
handiwork of Ariaxcnccs HI. or < khan ; but whether they signify that

rauefuUy, hut no when? found any trace * Liber of gliding or colouring myself,
Hew, then* arc to n-couciJi’ thn*e conflicting itfoardu J 1 confess I think xluit
the Etitnatenth-ccauiry IrtiveHurw either greatly exaggerated ur copied, «■,... ,411,
lam, frtufl Uae ULrlk^t who had origiontotl tbr Hkuernetil; for J do not we why
gililiny which had fetiiuisl 'a Jn-ffcnl Intfiv’ for St,HU years should suddenly
disappear in tofu after the lapef of U.SiOL Shotm of vratom tnnr have U-i-n

iiJL-liLkun by the alio chining On the siliceous vjinui*h with winch Ihn ancient i\ \ ■
riant* appear to hive im-tEnld their *rq!ptore>, tin llift mher hand* it lm far : r.:mi
inaprolwiLU- Uml Cftltmr may Iuitc Wn v mpluicd, to tome exfeal, ei en 00 jhe
^tcne_ I have elite where mentioned that traces of blue paint hate isreti fnaml nil
th&cncit!hirm g-pLlaph 00 Duiart tomb, and it may equally havr bifCti npplh- i rn
Pencjnlla. The analogy of Assyrian IT! is in favour both nf colour uml cihiini^
Ptrrot poinfi onqt that IVOUC of Tlio horrm nr oan OF I he buibctlptLidj luivi- '-*■[»
foand tin the pktfi?riu F toough tiir tioie^ aiv there in which they were Qa^l. He-
thi'tofarv faggot* that they may iuiTr beeatif jdU hrinile.

1 $fince writing the above, I have received the saLlafuctaiy a^mnincr :Vom
53 r Cecil Smith that in <mn of the budding* nu the platform he nctoaijy pr:k»>t
op some fragment* nf ^uooti tainted red 1 , -which are tiow in the British ^lusram.

: K*'f rorter, In his phui, a douhlu jilnirca^u in iha north-wfcd cnrhnr:

hut thii b a ndstake, FIaikIIii and C<wte, also, feU to ih> jttfttko to iJir n. -nh
eliurwaia hut ai|ti a Miinb ftight of steps (which ! oredooked) at right lo-l-V t.
the phuform ne^r ilw west eiteemity.

FETISEPOUB, Aim (mit-li Ul ixs

ir^

tli" building was -iriginalJy mised, or muz a«Jy iwtored, or added to, bv
him. i( impossible t-i sny, From the fact tlmt. tliU building fnintl
til- Piling! of Darius, and that, a-. 1 kve points! nut. the nrroimnadn
tSot! s+f tlio leitlcr mfd nppmr to have been imubviuate for a Ijl■
household, it Im* been called by sonic (he Hnunc of the Women. Tliero
S> nothing, how over, pcra.it ively to justify Mich jl designation, and the
remain* consist only of a number uf boftc* of -coluuiiifi. represented by
Kit fortsr tm two row* *>f live, preeeding three rows of four; but by
Fl wsdm noil Costr un irregular number (three only are marked on
their j.hii), preceding four rows of four, Ky them the ruin i> described
ns No. 4 i by others us tin- south-west edifice.

To the east nf tlifa Imikllng, uulI m continuation of tbu main upper
platform, on which it is rhe most elevated of all the P erse poll t/ui
i'slBiHi 4if remains, are the ruins of wlint imint originally have been
S-ni* the third largest structure of the entire palace* group. The
iiisoript iVms on its ittureoKca and doorways mid on tin lofty angle-
f'h.’ra, 1 reveal that, lik<* the Propylm and the Groat AudienceHfdl, it
w nx. the work of Xerxes* whence it has not tmtiatc.n&Uy Mm can-
jrctmttd to repre&cnt the palace of that monarch. Im sfructu nil
arfanfoments indeed* hmr a marked resembknee to (hone of the
palace of his father, with the exception that (he fabric faced toward*
the north, and that each component part wm on a considerably Wger
scale. In front was a platform, to wliklr access was gained hy a
quadruple flight of ?itrps h which appro m in my photograph on the
end by a double flight on the wentem hide* They are sadly
niims,j. Mounting tin* stair^ we tind the remain* of the main ^r-
entrance-portico of the palace, in the shn|h of die l>ose^ of two rows
iif columns of sa x each. Tiiiu opened by doorways into a < mil ml
pillared Imllp the roof oF which was tttfttaincil by thirty-six column*,
in sis rows of sis each, covering a square surface of Highly.seven and
a half feet each way. Their circular base* alone survive, Down tlie
centre of this hall runs at a slight distance Mow the *urfaco n hut now
prpofied to view, a subterranean aqueduct, which procured for it from
Texler the somewhat precipitate title of the Bath** There Li no ground
for connect) tig the budding with >uch a purpn-- ■ nor is there the
fnltiU ni trace of any of the roqijUito di^prralticmi; ami there can In*

1 1 'htf Ln*cnriptir>nj occur In a jtnstw variety of situations 1(1 Ifot* palcifB- than
«L*’where 1 (I) In paiu.-LH on bcdi tbccait am! wont mtalron-rn | ( 5 ) round th^
doorwmjs j { 3 ) in tablfiUi above iho king and pammiE: (1) ivn tbr foMw of ihe
kin#? rube in the mnft ami iIcorwayBi (S) mud itic window. ; («j oh the
bl4T angl^-plur.

1 At i he oiammEI cf ttus ra*t pialrcftM we four vtwA «utelrQcLui«i l! of hlocka of
itoiLP p which L>rgiti«avi eoujtct^rr^, bet wlthciot iuJflricftt ivhhjj^ to hare beerj
thfl liam of a p^>rch «r PropjliKi, dmllw to lho#e bafaicthc Hall of a llandn-d
tTcIttimw sod ih& Hall of

174

PEK&IA

II trie don I it thuL ilie conduit ia merely part of the Ayalam oit3 lf i r nf
inaamgfi at at water-supply, the tracts of which vxhl in rathtfr part*
ot tlm platform under the Hall of Xcrx**. Whether Ker iVter
in justified In connthutftig it directly bfcth with the robes of a tank at
the fool - if the mountain on Liu* east, and with tin? stone cisUm
already noticed near the Porch of Xnrxns, 1 have not the mean?. of
ascertaining. A , in the case of the Fhkoa of Durius, m nlw te re.
the building ia flank ed by ft numlor of ->ninJ]er oompartinents, of which
there appear to have boon four on cither aide, .those two Into which
\a gained from the dcntra! or pillared hull haring nl*n contained
four columns oach 1 and having themfom, constituted subsidiary pil-
Inrtd court*. The d Mrway a, windows, and nidus surrounding ihe

east rrym?^ palace or akhaes

nisi in hall on- n domed with sculptures similar in character tu thos*- ir>
tin- elder fwiliuc, lie sovereign with and fly-flap, held bv

attendant*, being sculped on tin- door-jamba ; hut in inveral of tin*
windows oft depicted wjmt appear to lie evidence* of roynl luxury
nud oiterbunment, in the shape of attendant* leading nnimills, ., r
ennybg cups, dishes, ami vast* of perfume. On tin; snuLh side 'two
stoihiMsiw lend up from it* eastern and western ends on to tlie pnlii'--
platform, in the outer front of wbidi four niches with « cornice ere
deposed ; while ri unique feature in Lliis structure -from the south
w.-st corner another flight of stops, Wti in the natural rock, at right
nii-lfA to the terrace, nud without either parapet or sculptures, |s
up from the lower or southern to the tipper platform. Tlic general

PEEtSEl’OLlS. AMi OTJLKLJ RUIN T 3

I ft*

Mttarks which lift VO previously Ik!Cii made Upflp liiti purple uf I hm us
Pa We will apply oqurtlly tu that of hits Hon* in all probability*

we liave the building in which Xerxes lived, wnd in which ha oOnStneted
btjrinessi of stat£ v and gave caremonml Imnquatei , reserving fnr hit
grant /fp/w the audience JudJ with this |>urtiai.K-B mid big columns,

Bofuw leaving thU |ialnai% let uh notice that between the Lotxc*
that precedes it on the north* and the Lunderuioyt pillars uf the Ortat
Qmi Hall of Xerxes, is a space uf ground about a liundt^d yards
in length, whit'li k now CH.-oupii.xl only by n mound, rising in
parts to a very ronsadoraMe height above the true level of the platform.
It baft not unreasonably been conjectured that this great pile of
al cumulated ,soil mmj caver the relies of dome other and yet on know is
fabric, and Ker Porter BnnguinrSy located herr- the hanquoting halt
where Alexander feasted, xml winch 'fell a sacrifice to the drunken
revelry of tho Macedonian/ Thirteen years ago, Messrs. Stotzo and
Andreas dm™ a trench through part of this great mound, and found
no murv remunerative spoil than masons 1 rttbbkh and chips. Yet
1 cannot but hope that a more thorough investigation might produce
ampler results though the tronrattfe wen? limited to the discoVfiry,
not of ad uimuHpevted palace, hut of what would Ik? nearly as important,
vi*. nut hen lie traces of tlleSj bricks, or whatever method of mural di-
conation was employed by the Achnexnenuin architects un tin 1 platform,
Personally, T shall not feel any sen&e of contentment that the limits of
possible discovery have l«fij reached until, like the Acropolis at
Athens, the surface- of the rock or true level of the platform has
everywhere bmi laid iwkrr. Then only will imbitology havu hod itjl
final aay.

On the kmr or principal platform, at n distance of I£G yank
behind or to the east of tie- Palace of Xerx« T are the remain* of a
hkm4li-wi further building, which bus a stunted appearance, owing iu>
the fact that it ii buried in the soil up to half The height of
its nJchoH and ihiorwav>. which arc composed of n :sUme I he

blackii(!A5 of which resembles the mute rial of the* FnlacO of Darius „
endoae a space eighty-nine feet in length by sixty-one in breadth,
preceded hy n portico fifty and n half feet by thirty and a half fe^.
The former appears lo haw contained sixteen columns* in four mws
of lour each ; the latter eight columns. in two rows of four each.
There art* no true** of intend chiinbujy ; mnl the entire building
appear* lo have tiwi; "ither a reprodueS ion or a prototype on a sEinll
Mth of the gnat Hall of a I fu ndrei I Columns, which we shall presently
notice. Thnt it w.th o royal palace or hall k evident from tlis
sculptured images of the king, with the fly-chav-t- in the &outh door,
and the pann-ol in the north, and of Urn king fighting With the
symbol leal monster on its hind leg® in the east and west ; but no

i’EJtSlA

I Til

remains to ffflribl* us to identify the monarch. For^Uhsan,
imhvd T n&sumes that this b the nnrlinfti pit run tun 1 on Uio platform,
I -p.uaH-iV' it 1 11Li*. L a monolithic dun meter at sululiLy and tv massiveness of
proportion greater tlum that po^>c^! I > v any utln>r edifice :' luiJ he
conjeuturea Hint it nmy have been the work of Cyrus or Ctanbyen,
Hut it m u_Ht be remembered, both that FergtUMn never saw Fern-polis
liiiiisdr. and also that Uiero is not anywhere the slightest tnp of uny
edifice or fabric mm tho pisiform prior to Darius. Indeed, it seems Up
ins- certain that Cyrus j md CambyKUH wore both in their graves iwfore
the ti r^c atone of Fersepoli* waa laid*

Returning towards the north, we arrive* runner basely behind the
hig mound rJuu lUnltP the Pa We- of Dsu-ius on the east, at a build-
(> vtrtT fl | hi|^ which, in the absence of any diMiftgui&lijiig mark or
inscription* lias. gnnrmlty Iw called the Central Edifice. It
is of jK'culiar plan, and baa afibftkd a wukotno^eopo to the iheoiratft.
It coiiEi&ts of three great doorways on the inner surface or jambs of
which art; chiselled ihe monarch* seated or itandiog under the royal
umbrella, with the image of the god nnmud floating us n winged halo
Hverheruh in the exist doorway we meet with the liret specimen that
we have hitherto encountered of n type tlmt is very frmulmr on the
next eimning building* vi?- the king seated on a triple-<tagotl throne,
supported by Lhron rows of nine figure* mch + with uplifted anna a
variation of the scene already depicted on the tutu tn at NnlcLiii i-IEuitam.
In the centre, between the north and south doorways* are the Um& of
four columns* What may havo liwm the object of this sinidl I ait
remarkable structure it is impoasiblo to say. Kor Porter, anxious to
do u good turn to the Holy Flare kcIsiKjI of thought, -supposed it to be
tbe priyaic oratory of the king, and the four plinth* to be t he bases of
a fire-altur. For .this siu^eation there is no support- hVtgttMn
thinks it was a second Propykea, in front of the Pahsec of Xerxes.
It does not, however* resemble any of the other remain* of porches ; and
• I lies nor either confront or lend to any other hu tiding, IcEunt of ad the
Fulneo of Xerxes. 1 prefer therefore to classify it with the other
Perwpolitan halls nr palace^ and not to ipiu cobwebs in hypothetical
identificntkus.

Finally we come to the last— and if we apeak of n hall Itself,
w ithmit nil j Line t —the large* I of the Perso^iolifcaii st ruciii re*, This in the
li cl i.i budding which, ever since iLn ground plan was iL^rlainod

JH*f' in tka iiLLihlle of the rentary * and with even greater prevbdon

t Jitum™. E r mcv the o-tcavaiions of ItiTT-#, has been known a* the

Hall ■*! a Hundred Columns. It is situated on a lower level (identical

with that of the Fords of Xerxes) Uian the edifice recently described,
and ih nearest nf nil the mins to the mountain, from whose it is
removed hut a short distance. It eon nisi* of a single great hall, the

Kn&Tif fcooBttAt— IU£L nr Ikrxr^LEP Of-Ll'irsj

J'ERSEKUrlSp AM* CJTltEIl HUNS

171

interior dimensions of which arc a aqua re of 22^ feet, mn\ wlic«€‘ iwsf
m ew sustained hr T QO column.*, in ion row* of tnii cadi, preceded on tbr
mnrtli by ft portico, of nixtoon columns, in two rows of tight onch ^ or a
giiuut total of i h; columns in tins rutin* building. On either -4di' of
the portico, whnae dimensions are 160 feet by Gfty-cnt\ wore gignntio
ilgur** of balls* facing northward*. which Ker Porter took to have bwn
stallies* ami not bis-relief^ but winch there Is no reaj&sn to mipp&te
were difTertmt from tin! iurroiiig remains of similar colossi, i,e.
projectkms in bold relief fram tlm front mid aides of Atone piers, as in
the Porch of Xerxm, From thin portico two doorways* of superior
height and width to the rt-tnmndnr, conduct into tfio interior or Hall of
n Hundred Columns The latter iy smrmnnd^d by forty-four stonr
doorways windows, 1 or niches similar to tht.su already ebesrred in the
Tudiu^H fl f Jhirius and Xvt&m —once united to eaah nlkvr by a wall
of son-dried bricks, over Urn feel thick, long ago completely perishod.
The interior, which wos excavated by the w orkmen of Farhad Mfr?% the
diiin rhliahmii-od-I^owlelit jutd llovensor-ticncml of Fof% under the
*uporinttmdeuce of Dr, Andreas in 1878, present.! .l wilderness of
pillar beu*^ 3, with fragment of curtsies capitals, and drums, piled in
inextricable ruin, IvTLongfi remains to allow rhat the columns went
of the composite or triple -headed Atihicmcnian order, with lotus-shaped
Uw4 «ud demidiull capital^ Not a singlo pillar surrim ■ bul recon-
btrcciing them from the dimensions of the plinth mi the juiixh* scale a -
in the Hall of Xerxes, we ascertain that ihey were thirty-wsftttfeet
high, aiid twenty feet apart fmpni axis to axis.

The his-reliMs on the doorways of ltd* hall arc on an even more
grandiose scale than the majority of [hone hitherto imfpectod In the
squirm™ , aflt aru * wcat combat between the king and a

nondescript monster is again abown forth. On the sooth
doorways he is seated on a throne,, which is supported on a threefold
temicc, upheld by the Aim s of subject nationalities who are disponed in
parallel rows of hire. An cxi£tt£rite canopy w ith tattfelltid fringe h ou! -
■ • Ejretrfaod over his head, and still higher t3je winged ttml protecting
tJrtnuxd hovers in the sky- This scene we have alnndy witn&ftuxb

• Aly own OOC« word H Window* an Use north wnll onIj T c IEviil«I into jreup*
wf a by the twti rta trance dew*, Flanclin and C«t* gi™ 3 window* 0&1 J+ ami
6 niches; Kcr faster and Tcrier. T windows and g ukdwft The ground pUn_s ,if
ail thcaw IxWleis **ein to require * maximum of 7 winr|mr 4 unly, l«cftlibe of ihr
IhjifSku-walJji omsiijr:, flat J luirtUr tliihk 1 cus havn l^en mwlaken, aiul I tinrl
that 1 havo the support of Kichuhr,

3 Mr + Ccell ^ns|th Enfomis me that en tin 1 tipper isf «Av^ml of

hflM-she ohserTtxl moMisu* trmrkv siraLLir io ihoini pf^rbuity mrftUened cm tin-
p aa*» pktform at Pawu^nd®, fonau of which n^ipcar to be cbnmctfrrs fjom tb^
€nw1i alphaJ K't —a dniiafi* i^rimeny to Ibfr UsiM^t of tlreulc coltaborat Ion.

VOL# I h v

PERSIA

Ou the north doorways, however* an even more mnjo?.tici conception is
pourtmyed. There the nionnmb sr- in stole ou a high-tacked choir
or throne, with his f*«t upon n footstool. At his tack nrt* gtmrds, nml
LLIi with the lifted fly-wlsp. On the ground in from of him

Htfitiid two centra, tali in rl'which tWOOtbur figures, jHimbly ambassador*
or mirmters, mUiiuee to render n•■raimi ut t« make otaLsewcu to i.lm

an cm no-iiLWir, u-tnt, or a iiuvdbcu couth s*

MTirwigti. Ik'iow on’ live Kupnriiu|»:feed town of warriors, with spem%
taws* quivers ntei bucklers, fifty in all, their differing iIpmsh end hcsd^
typifying the Niqpmtt enlistment of the < treat Kings host, in
the poneli of rayid state he himself is rvtirywhere displayed with the
royal liars iifton his head, with hn&hy curled hair, and with long Frizzed
taurd, rind in the flouring purple of empire. Fit the antics of conduit

PEH3EP0L1S, AND OTHER IQJtSB 17©

Isis buna uMi girt T and be sulemnly grapplr* with and transtixc*
the foe.

This great hull* which mat to that of Kumuk in Egypt wji* the
lar^gfflt in the ancient world, wua doubtless, a h its sculptures indicate,
lh | the throne*room or audience-hall nf the Uimt King. I^-sa
striking, though mere spacious than the Hall of Xerxes, in*
Eymoi li no it wju lower in elevation* and in uEL pruk'ihilicy wor*e
Lighted f 1 it must Lave served tin nun logon* purjumse. Here, in the
miiniji-r depicted- upon the doorways, one of i Iif- Adiasmenian neve-
reigns must have sat in state to receive the homage or thn tribute of
Ins people. With which of t he dynasty are wo to connect it f .Sir
H. Rawlmsoir Iifls bwi induced hy the superior preservation of the
sculptures tn refer it to the latent reasonable period, vk, p to the reign
of Arlnxorxes 1IL Freni the same premia I should draw ijuite thu
p^jHwiU^ oonelujiotL Looking to the fact*. that under the reign of
Bonus the netiomd »rt. appwire to have touched its apogee of splen¬
dour, that there is no other hall on the platform winch wo are juatitied
in identifying with a throne*mom such as. he must undoubtedly have
n sod, and that faith the ground plan and structure represent thu
-hup lent and least complicated farm of PorhejiolitJiii hall f I should lie
inclined to argue that this was the building where the boh of Ilyhiosj^
sat in royal state ; and that St wan with the familiar moldtion of the
Orients! to create wutm novel type, at once emulating ami transcending
Ilk predecessor, that Xerxes departed from the model of his father,
and raised llio Great Hall with the porticoes cm nnothtr part of the
terrace. Moreover, when the Hall of a Hundred Columns was built,
die decorative mossing of sculpture on the front n of stairways had
seemingly not lieen developed, and tho scones of royal pageantry which
Xerxes depleted on the stylobate of bis stately platform are here eou-
centmtnd and dispQscd vertically an the jam lift nf the rut ranee door
ways. A further difference may 1 m; noted in the ftbtencoof any groove
or rtochet in the door way sh In the palaer* of JbiriuH and Xcrxi4j t tn
ecu Lai iii tin? pEtoti on which lie folding dm w«nw boDg^ This fend*
an additional support to the theory that we have here an audience-
rhnmbt>r merely ; tdaro the doorways only have boon closed or eon-

ovkd by hangings, like those describ'd in the Inerts nf Ehthi r.

At a distance of 3 90 feet to the north of thu portico a re tho
remains of what Is generally admitted i-o have been a hull-fL-uikrd

1 The only iijipsFrnl mracui hy which Sitfht can ha^e boon wlwltled to the
iclrrior wa* by (he nine window?! in ibn northern walk the hoy* on tha utkr wde
brin^nll fllkd and eoartiretlfig nlckm The I'lrnilnE and fertile luitiunn; that
mttsi h av* sprawl iherEfrem down Iha lutig, plllnml lUIeS iicwwfdtjli?*, in my
opitunTL, tlao theory of window?! of i^wti opa^ra left IO ad Fids light Uj the ildfli of
llif! litiibf-^1 root.

PERSIA

IHuriL-li, or Propylrtn, |r»Lclita^ thereto, In the earlier porl nf tin . 1 century
tkc^c rain:- were in tt more rpcv^Hmi-mble shape tI hlii bow : Wid north
ns^Lin of t hem stood on enormous L-io|jtt«l column, My
ln r ‘ 1 L noli 1 :? and photographs record only n few dilapidated blocks
of atone. retaining however the imnifstnknhlo dk|Nj*itir.ii oi n gutowi \y
□ml Oti one fiill' the form of what was flnw o hull. Hand in in
tvvml from the apparently unfinished workmanship of w-mo oI these
fragrsieutjs. that the porch to which they ladonged wmi never completed,
am! may have been a later addition to the original desigiL Such a
condition, how (‘vor, if true, need not necessarily postulate a later origin
In the Eilat] where, an T have fraqtmnily remarked* to leave the edifices
of n jm^ocoaior either incomplete or n prey to ruin, is no uncommon
manifi HtuLion of the u/^as of royalty.

A far more Interesting questlm, however, tltfm the date or tlie ob¬
ject of this building* is mined by its remains. Whereas none of the
earlier traveller* found in any of the edifice:- on the platform
huriurfb}- Hie- luiuti, tnwes of i1*hI ruction l.y li«* r ojhJ were therefore
At ”- puxrle<l how l«» reconcile 1 with tin- visible 1 ruin* lIh story t

attested hy n «m*enmi* of ancient historians, 1 of the cun fin
grntkm of one or more of the S Vr&epolitan pdnees hy Alexander, mo re
recent dkc^triii^ have ucqiminterf it** with the fact thnt thi- Hall nf
il Hundred Column* ^ntatiti praofeelj the evidence of which we stand
in need, 3 i in tin* -oil above t lift pavement was found* in i In* t^cnvatkiruj
of thirteen year* ago* a thick layer of n&hes, proven! hy microscopic
analysis to be mrhoniaodeedisr, of which not a vestige has hem brought
to light in any other of the palace*. 3 It is probable, iJmrefore.
that these are the remains of the cedar roof, which cm milled into
iushes juut where it full T carrying down with it the columns and support*
that had previously sustained its splendour. It is not the least among
the ftweinhiicnus of tin-site that wu an without positive certainty it

1 DM«lorn* ^iailUillk svh,- Stmbo, Ob. xi ,; U,Citf)EuA r ilt>. w, v. 7; E'hlLnrchV
nta Akw*rfn ; Clilnrebtu in -irfleiu™, lib. rill.; Amaru lik til, e. IS.
Q, Curtins 1* mqialiftlblt far tftr miemcnf that I hr pnlJUX Kl on fire was Largely
of cellar.

= It vr^Ui with m- uhcOFWjtcm^ pic sc amort, ibiifisfUTt. £h»! Ou^cIot wmte
(Travel*, VdI. 13 . p. 281 ) : p From the very durable nail tire el charcoal, rnij-bt,
ttOAcmsblj hope N) discover fragment* of cnrbofil-rd cular/

1 TfiaiiT and Stoke, h OWffVT , hrtTE botli opinf.fl that thi- «ton» in tbo hiUcd
of Xcrxr* rtifm* Iracc? of having Lwa stand mred by violent Leal. SJadMaw] IHca-
lafoy (£# /fcrw, jk. 407)soyas + Sealed In tlm doorway of the Ti&ll ot Ximrotf, I
mtead PluturchV account of the burning of Fenwpotis by Airkimtar, and was
compflllorJ, in prcseucB of tbc-ji calcined itdlSrB b tbew Cdldlnm rcddcm-ij t f y \\ [t t
Hbuj-cb, Shew df^Kfia of cflrboniH.Hl litntN-r-'. In accept the version of the Greek Ma-
lorisin ‘ Thb 1 Itvllfve to bo fancy, Ss* enc c1r% w far im 3 know, \tn* oWmcd
Elm- of thwe iblngp in the Hall of Xerxes.

PEHSEPQL1S, .VXD OTITEIt KtrtNfc

T*1

\* tnii\ but lit lentil with more tiwtn moderate pruJaikbitity—fou-l our-
todves coiib m plat fog, at a distance of 2,200 yenii* the spmklng wtwk
of what wfu> either, if the Gnxdt historians are to 1 h* believed, the
drunken freak of i ho conqueror, or, more probably, tJjo net of n mercltc&s
but deliberate (.ifi'iLietliuitioii.

[ have now cdmpktdl toy account of the still surviving min* upon
the platform of Pter&ftjrtriiti. Before I leave it, there are one or two
tfutt(ir subsidiary features that require to T» mentioned. Of these
mrit'jii the in last interesting, if also not the least obscure, is the

P* ywi c ,sa exiytMucr u£ u im^o number of wlmt described by tlie
undent tmv^ll^ as underground passages, hut are more probably
duanneU for the po^ugo of water. The outranee to these in former
time-, tmihi luive In on for more exposed than at present; the aqueduct
bomuith the Palace of Kerxefc fo ing tlie only one tlmt now ujwnly
attmeta the eye, Thu most complete exploratkm of theae underground
passages that is recorded was made by Chardin over 500 years ago*
lie represented them as extending in every direction at a depth of five
foot below the surface, but principally in die ftfrftent corner, where he
entered and walked, for thirty-five minutes, a distance of a quarter ol a
league, till he was compelled to retire by the terror * if his attend ants.
Thoir sides, ho salth were like polished glass* Mofior in 1^09 repeated
tbe tK]Wnmtiit:—

T^hi* ppeftt Kjmcciucc i* to be i~l l^ijtbkkI ainu-njf a crinfuj«-tl In :ip u-l ^tont> in
line r^of tlio fr.int iw uf bmhbn^ anti aimnat adjacent to a ruined fttnircnjc.
Wo dfcmndri Juki iti bed* which ib MJQM ea-.e> l~ Cut to feat into lln* r-xk. Thb
bi'il leads, &M-^t (uni nut; to flip East 11* dfliceni il rapid abiml 2,7 jkmsm ] it Ehta
nrtm iWM ^jj we c^ut.l l>qIy Cm "I : liiTjiSafli It k Ufld iW-dtl it tnliifp-s, *0 tlmT a
nian of common height may stand opdgln in U* 1

The position iLtid direction of several of these channel ■t, but probably
of only ti wmn.il proportion of their real nombor, is given in the plana of
Flandin and Caste * In parts they are hewn in the live reck ; else^
where they Uf paved and walled with stone. Tin passages quoted
show that they vary in height from low drains to ainplu channels. A
layer of nm<l on the floor repeals the purpo^ for which they were
original I v intended. This appears to liAvg been twin- fold ; either as
aqueducts to convey drinking water or water for tho gard&uv front
cisterns in tht? mountain, 1 or as drain-pipes to oirry "tl rain-water

1 *\nt p, 13L un 111* Mttoml visit,In mil J»nrnrf t p. T7),

Mnricr look ciUldb and liyhtaf l?«t wlu Jtlopjh.^1 by E he hiutuwimjiw tlie

after cmwlbia fur -nine thaw ou hte ^tonwch, Chiiclcy (voL IL p, 2*ft) rix'ordto
toe son>C rrault.

1 Vol, ii. pis. fif, 1»0,

1 O&b ftiich dstem. aln-jidy meatiomd, lm^ been noikeil by n»ost irnveUcr*
|a?t at tan fo>ut of the tu^imtinu behlitik the pJat&iaitesGenUcfnlnal HCtmd

fejaS twmlH,

from the ronfn of tin- pahnTN, and Hurplua water in general from dm
platform, A more extended ftxaimniitiCfft of these passage^ might nut
bo fraught with valuable consoqueiiGC.^ but ja nevcrihtde^ desireblc.

T have before mentioned that* in digging into tin? hig mound behind
the palace of Dnrius, Mesuu BtoUe and Andreas found little beyond
Ceifl.tii-Sii.Ml remains of maion* 1 un finished work, indicating tlmt the
structures cm the pi inform never reached completion* buL
vr&tP atuspeuded either by caprice or war, or + more likely, by the full
of the monarchy itself. Similar evidence exjtit on other parts of
the pi At form- Tablets gape blankly for the inscriptions that wore never
engraved upon them ; tlim- are staircases on which the sculptures worn
only in port executed. Fragment*- of atone limy be Keen on which the
chirvel hail only wrought half of ita work. Stolen even hazards the
conjecture riant nil the columns of tins Hall of Xerxes may not have
\m* n sun up* because of the almost complete disappeamiicu of the ex-
peofod WLiJilth of ruin. To the caprine of Oriental sovereign fvh I have
more than once argued. quite ns much as to political vicissitude^, \
should be disposed to attribute this plienOmiuion-

The contents of the platform do not, however, exhaust the interest
of Ferrepolh. dust as Darius and three of hi* successors selected tho
Hdjjrti rUlf now known as Hekafoi-Rustam for their rock-hewn ami
s l iaci i i■ - ihle sepulchres, did rinw other wrereigns of the
vamc line, but dfubtlcsii later in date, make similar choice of Hie*
Kuh-i-RnLmat, in immediate proximity to the jMthtces when? they had
reiguod and feasted. One of theae royal lisridi^oleutus -starts from she
n.ick immediately behind the It nil of n Hundred Colmnn^ but hna an
outlook inclined rather more to south Shan west : the Mrennd Is in w
h?a?stsflf the mountain a little to the south -msl of the platform ; ilat
thin), which wjls never eoiiiph'UsI,. is an diet *soter edge of the sloping
rock, nearly three-quarters <>f a mile to the south. The mountain back¬
ground here being neither so lofty nor so precipitous zts nt Niiksli-i-
Rlist am , there are necessary differences IwtWei n thr two groups. At
PursepulU the sepulchre is not hewn high up in the vertical d£fT r
miptiii-tribb wive by roj*-s or machine*. On the coutniry, it is now
1 -osy of iUWHS from lndow + although* in the rase of tin- north tomb, an
attempt was made to render approach from the pint form more difficult
by mentis of a wall built up of big polygonal atones in live tiers or
terraces from the lower level. The dimension* of die PersapoHtu
tombs also differ slightly from their predecessor^ lieiug (li> calculated
from die viaU.de parte of the cruciform catting in the mountain} r
height, H/'ieiitv nine feet, breadth of the upper limb, thirty-direo foot*
lirmdth of the transverse limb, contain tug the tomb-dmciilier, fifty-
f«*r and a half feet, A third and instructive difference, printing to a
later and more ornate periad of art, is p-roeptfhlo in the sculptured

AMI UTHEU UI'INP

1*3

burfloG of the faqaAtk The doorways are surrounded with thm* row*
nf exquisitely carved rosette* on the lintel wtd juabs : nod the roof or
architrave which ittpport* the twin-staged throve hit* cnrved on it*
fn>nt ll ^irited frum* of Iioils . 1 Tho four tombs «f Nakshd-Eiistom
I Hiving Iren hypothetically assigned u» Darius 1, (n,t% Ml—4BU)^
Xer^Bs (48r>-4$fi) t Artnxemw L or Longimrums (4G6-434), mm
\}Mm 3 II, or Xothus (124-405), wo hi mil not bo far wrong in iillcttin-
tho^c at Persepolis to the later sovereigns of the Adui roenim dynasty +
vist. Artuarma II or Meenmn (405 30U> Artaxers^- III, or Odilis

soarII TOMB HtUlaiJJ PEI»ei*Ol.lit

(361 -338)* and the unfinished tomb either to Anetf {3.m-33d) or to
Dnriuft IIL or Codomnrmtii (336-330)*

To the early part of tlie century the entry to the find or northern-
moht tmnb wa* choked with sand and day. The labours. of the Enghfah
Niiriti artillerymen* who formed part of the escort of Sir E-nre
Urtt,b On*dry, cleared these away in 1811, and the uocwulatioiis
w*n\>y the labour* of Ferhiul Mirra m 18T8, still further reduced ;
until now the front Li exposed down to the IjsijW! of the doorway
1 11i>tnkrn bjr htotbJ writer* for dops.

PftIZSiA

1*4

conducting into the tomb. 1 Of this the lower part has been forcibly
broken away t J ami wp tan now enter without difficulty. Passing into a
rlmuilier ot vestibule with arched vault, hewn out of the Jive rodk* we
encounter at a dirttninv of nine feet from the door si wall, four foot
high, uho Mil the solid rock, constituting the front of the fim of two
cavities or sarcophagi, excavated one Mihid thn other in a recess. A
partition* one fsKit in width, separates the pair ; anil the furthest
extends to within three foist of the ecu I of the cutting.* They are
four fe^t in depth, nine and one-third feet long, and four feH hroad ±
und their broken lids, which formerly were arched ut the top, Lie uofo^s
the Openings. 4

At * dixtonctt of three handled yards io the south is the second rock
Midilk. tomb. It differs only from its predecessor in containing thm*
arched niches or recesses at the back of the main vestibul**,
each containing a rifled cavity or sarcophagus 1

Tin- tno«t southerly tomb, at soim- distance from the others* whs
hrst noticed by Niebuhr in I765 + Its lower part ii hewn out of the
rock In the familiar fashion, hut its upper portion U built
up with large rectangular stone* to supply ilia superior limb
of the cros& Nor was this tomb tm>r ftnUhod, us the state of the
sculptures soiideatly show*. The ting, and Qmmzd, and th* ftre-
ftltar, and (fie terrace, are there ; but im mm Hatch below llm oumloe of

J The lower liinh of the dot* mot* thcnforc, exist in thJ> cilw, Ubj^ twill
up by I he polygonal walk

* Chardin ilfidued thal rLf door wain idway* n sham door foTmlntr part of ihtt
Tui? tarn I! fsjek. and ihitughc that t Eit- ml entry to tHn tomb mart hnu* truS PU-il
by n flublcmLuean jurwiigc. There s- no on £■ Irncc in of this, ami analogy

in again si it,

1 FEundaai* hath in bu text aehJ pirn-- tv«il. \ll pi* I d\ -G), htt* conuuatted th,-
curious error of repre^euiInu only oqp snroojdLAgtiS in this tomb r

1 Near t Id* tomb nnrbfiftjti 1 (13 r P dnwribed as being " .^mlptumd tJir Image of
their grftnd FUftOtlu, a TM'inim of n« uncouth nriil ugly a as well oouM Im*

jimpgfoed; muj if rBTmnood by tlir^pc tMcbw, sere H wm nol in lore, hut tutlior
with u No nociNit, bajie fear tou often drawing djuiiudlv ppirfta into vE3iMiibjor j T
tion. It of a (dganiiVh sisai nr magnitude, standing us upright a*? hli deforced
jwfttnro will admit, ili.-M. i t>¥rring a mflvt dreadfel rifiagt* iwixt man and intuit,’ X.«
onn haw ■■ vrr abb? In make out vchai this horrible and purely imaginary

mun^cT(which llrrhorr* Oiudofi arthd itiln»lue;d inline -tylcinliihis drawing)
can hai-e been. L fumy that the eJsslIoiit knight mast Imre catTiVfl away ain
Induttnct rnqinitlni of tin: i-rtMlur^ with whum iho king

npraaented in combat ,>n I bo doorways* inrl mast finally bo wrilUn hli account
ail home,

4 I am purilixl bj the interior nf this tomb, npon *rhicti my own uuta* and
n»cdt«rtl™ do not *alight«m m% Ouglov, 4nlmioh, Hich p Btnmng, and llAsbcr,
aJl at w]jom OQtmd it, dminir iti iho nU*vr d r^oiptlcm, FJauadaai and Co^to p
howiiTer (to- 1, iw + p]«. I64i-1), depict El n.^ mnettHting -ix tombs inJU-nd of ihlvv
I think they arc ngaiu wrong,

PERSl 1 'FOLISs VMS OTUE1K i:t INS

IbS

the latter the work Lh mi spend ^h Mid wo may infer that the death
of the nnumruh or the collapse of t|io dynasty abruptly arretted is*
execution. There i*tno frign of an entrance* rmd flu? presence of a larger
number of loote blocks of stone hi front ha* led some writers to tbe
quite gratuitous ennclumon that there projected a secret and laby¬
rinthine avenue of approach, Ft is undoubtedly singular that * mm
d run! ri have In?eri chosen for thi*; tomb ho very near to the level of the
plain* above which, if completed* it would barely hove tuxm derated
at all Thid to indioato a relaxation in die curlier ideas of im-

pradiaMlitt of a or ess.

I have itow completed tisy e^umitiEkdoii iff all the ruin* cither upon
or in the immediate neighbourhood of the Sfeist'poliUn platform ; nod
Tiw %-ft'n. I proceed in conclusion a discussion of Midi of (Jit? pro-
□bin Pit Memo, whether of history or nndueoto^r>\ ns have not yot boat
Fob ed. I have everywhere very plainly indicated wy belief
that hero was not merely n palace-platform of the Acha-ineniiiu kings
that is incontestably demonrtmtrrL hy die sculptures and inscriptions-
hut f/n m Perfiepolu^ which was one of the wonder* of the micient world,
upon which Alexander descended with 1 2 m conquering might of the
MtU'ihdoiLtiin phalanx* whose city he mrtmimi to the plunder of his
triuiTiphaut Mildiery* and whose palace or palaces he burned,

'('Jim ]irlnL i ;«^i tipphtud with a fujicm? joy,

; \ml the king Moral a Kashmu with iral So deitloy ;

TEiaip led she wuy
To liffht IjIeei lo Vm prey*

Amu like another lleEcn, M anuthisi froy.

From the early lstnkhr, whose mitts we have seen at the month id die
valley of the Falvar, to the clifT-wall ami rack-tomb* of Kak^h-i-HuiLnti
on the north, and to die palate-platform on the -outin and far nut. may
b-% on the fronting plain, we may presume die royal city of Jterm*
nnd of Xenw lo have stretched. That city—like most Orient*!
cities, a compound of mud uud day—has perished OlT the face of the
uEirib ■ and it* snoGt&ttn have done likewise ; but in the reck-sepulchras,
the fortified Talley gateway and the pillared platform, we have the
iuch^trucdblf boundary feature*. between which was outspread it>-
vast extent. On the n«ya! platform, whether it wo* inside or outside
the precincts of the city, the monarch^ rended during their sJiort visits
to the Ancient capita I of the dyn rusty ) El ml there \U L ^- imnctcd the
gtirgHins scenes that IkitH accounted for its erection, and arc stilt dis-
pUjed upon its ruin*.

Sudi, oven iu days Wore die i unciform alphabet had been de¬
ciphered, has boon for long die opinion of the majority of hinder it*
It bus been ne rved fur SUobo once again to resusci tan- the exorcised

PERSIA

njsiiit of doubt. 1 Tho clifltUfftbr mid object of the plutimru itud it*
wtracrtare-H he does nut P of nurse, tiny more than oi her scholars, ilisputa.
s^Wn Bull he boldly denies Omt this wjl* the ruynl uistle of PiT^polfc
which Alexander seized, and which* whether in a drunken
hrnwl or with n fixed purpose, lie ser h.h {ire - Diodorus Siculus.. who
wrote in the half-century immediately preceding the Christ loti cm, and
who derived most of his material for the history of Alexander frotn
ClitzirchiLs lh hi& mainstay. The Sicilian describes the clbuld nnd
IHkhu^ts of PenHe| h ri ifl (u^ing the mimes aspo and fStMitOma without dts- _
tinction). ii>-stimmnded by n triple wall, of which the outermost wa^
hixtwn edHta or twenty-seven feet higIi T crowned with iHittlumorta
tile second, thirty 4wo cubits or fifty-four feet, and the third or inner-
tibOft, sixty cubita nr turn hundred ami two feet high, He continues ;—

Tin- third B»ki?iuru In shape wa*fcm^idorl,and thu wait rbriwf wrisJn hoEght
tixty tabllHp MiHi of \mtd hitww. wcfQ *iail*d to 3uat tor cvet, Ksn-b of thn aidti Lad
^tiU-s of bnw*H H nml by tlnm ptJ(the word vs mirjmvT, lit, Crouses) of hmh*
of twmtj LiihilA, Tla« one wt upfor Mafkiyv iba oUmra lo strike ti?rf«r into the be¬
holder* And Ota the ?i-l" nf H»' ctnidel Kj^icdi the caa-t, til a distance of rout
hEmdiod fwt, Is a mountain rallied I be liojnJ .Mountain, in which wen? tbr
sepulchres of the klu^F. ... In this vkimdel were ninny Ic-IltUis;.-. hoLb of I hr kl*v
nnrl of hU ‘rcncniH, of Very CEwtly t»f|ui|imant, and tiravurio Wnll rwntrEW for
the ^Tisind i • if nioEiry,

lie furl her says of the ruyaJ rock-tombs^ that tlit> ooDmi could only
3ie to them by m€nrui of rnnefikies. 1 Ffrmt llii.s inscription it

U at ernee evident (I) that the histortnn is either nut describing the
pillared pint form nt -nil, but some other Mrtivturi\ or that he Iuls hope
JftsuJy bjandered ; and (If) tin it he is if escribing not the sepulchres of
Peniep&Tlk, hut those ait Nukslni-H uh tarn. Stol/.e< accepting tJie
hypothesis indtffc fnv! iLimblo to l>ioduros* conjectures that the citadel
with triple concentric em 1 Insure did exist ; that ft w«s siiuntpd in the
immediate neighIrtHxrhood, on the western side* of Xiksh-i-Rustam,
rind that tliere wi-rc the pnWs which At^nudcr (kriiupl hy £j^ 4
He dispcHo* of the layer of charred cedar on the door of the Halt nf

1 I >i-iti-e m J. 4. iir*rtL /. £r4. z JfarU *«, I sn:!,

1 The bulk of tin? h^toHnnw. bn^lnfr ibtlr imrmlK? upon Clitamban, imw
tll« former theory; naid Pryilru, lei the frriKHli agunted, Iuls ^ivcu

prtUlqal fnrni lo I bo fcimilinr story of Tliak, the cti-iK.-^n. Dioiloruji, however
MlggiHtfi a worn ihsbbanile vat, rcicti^c for iW iMjmiap of thm tampkn of

Atbeu by Xmixes, This \* a far lib ber hypotb«lft| and N5llk-k*, hx*iitp to |ho
Ittipre^lon produced upcnmi OrfceEfll jx-Oph? by *udi n iliiipby of I be power or
I be PominrTor, n^.«rd» the apt «p »a wytl-ei.mHulctiMl ntHuero. CadnilAlod to work
on the mind/

' EHwL flkt. lib. mfl- 515,

1 Aooonhng to IbLortunL-, the desirucl]oti wa^ of niure Lhoti obd ^kco r*j|A

»q| I iSdpnAacfl

PBUSEPOIJS, AND OTHER RUINS IB"

a Hundred tVitunme by supposing that it was the iwult of natural dr
coLupjinit i“n p ami In* njipnfwntly forgets the tnicfn <tf eonftfiiri atiois, f**i
which In; brw pleaded elsewhere on the rained ptothmn. lie
that the NakKh-i-RusUtu position wan n much better and mort-
prnl itihla site fot tin? royal iwdeuce rend citadel, hecaiwo of t ho l>ottoi*
water-supply, and because it was out of sight of 'he tombs, which tin'
Mazdi an momHxhs would not L»ve consented always to twp in vn-e
In fine, ho gi*« the go-by to the platform altogether, and t.uvfu ii.
with brilliant contumely, to necount for itself.

Now, in answer tit all this it may lie pointed out that on oot* of
fact is worth a hum I™ I weight of theory, particularly »hon theory
rests upon an ancient hut not tMitanpufiiy writer, quni-
j H |u in the most perfunctory fashion from another writer,
notoriously nwklc*. The Mliil Mid inconttovortihle fact «•* the
platform and its palaces remains ; while not a truce of the grte<
ihrm'old st rue tun- nf Diorh.ru s and Stobe luw ever town discovered-
Why should all tin- building have survived »« one sjmt, and all hnve
p er i«hH in the other 1 The uurifuaion between the two group- ni
royal tombs is a very natural mb take, and might mtsily occur j nor
can miy valid reasoning, in my opinion, be grounded upon this stab-
uu-iii, * What, then, are we to believe of tlm general dwcrip«lo« by
Diodorus, orClitardiw, whichever it really wb«. concerning the triple,
concentric, lofty- wajlod endmurc l That Mich a ilcmpLion could
ever li*ve bran intended to apply to the existing plat form, I am quite
unable to credit.’ Two hypotheses suggest themst-lvo. The first it

1 atuue writer hate [abound the minute anil possible h-nitm * of uh-ntiiv

between thr two pmniner that the platform was the UJipcrmiisl or iftnsrmuer
iho three endwUHVw. It is suffiricat to petal col that »«» it. maximum *le vat ion
above tiie plain is wholly taadetivaie, that it mmt nlw»J» have n*i«l uponawmU
instead of being ctasutni»sivd by ft wall, ami tlmt ant a trace ha* ever l«*n
on The cmuntl b-low of ellla-TOl the two inferior imclwUlW, tlickr tontents, cm
their ft HtHf i ath W, Why, again. ilwuld one only have survived, nod Ibo two
olherr- have perished' Some wrilsf* have sought .1 feeble support in the discovery
(wkicfr Tester. vdL U. |i, l$l, claim* for on o *ti hi* but wIilcJs wa*

mule by s,-r Porter twenty years before) of what is alleged tn Imvc iiPEn Btnpl-
llncef viKutnvnUation.cooshttaff af mad w*H» and towera, un the hmwof iIh-
hUl behind the pisiform, al a little dhtlWW above the royal tombs, Such a work
Wan a Very natural anti netxiSftry scheme of protection to the platform, which
might otherwise htive been open ellhet to attack or to robbery on that ri.lu ■ tail.
Of cemve, It anjiwrT* in no nwpecl to tins aeecntit of Dtodone, nor can it be proved
to dale (mm Aobmnrtiftm times A far men; muratftbla hypothesis h Ftiggwted
to me hr Mr. t’eeil Smith. who think; that the triple wall ct Dtodpru* nifty bnv.-
rtmltnt'ffi.m a mUnlHbnrtauding or CMtar'Obe*' drocriplhxt of the Three waU»°f
rile PiiiwepolUnn platform. which WOW of differing height and were cnvsmert With
n panij^t, Re also ingeniously suggests Ui.il cvn»j»ii«. the buuen pel iMUles alitrte
nicntieneU, which In I hem selves are an nnLnUdfljgibJC nrclllteetunil foatnir, nay

PERSIA

188

that Diodorus. may in reality tmve been describing another building
or group !>e building* ut PerseiJolE:-^ (ho citadel, in f;u:t, as distinguished
ttutn tbu paliwes (although hn artowtouAj identitk'd them), ami that
stteb am eneluBiini may ImVo existed Eli the neighbourhood of NatoM-
Rujtnta, Now, it is true that on the platform list*rer «t p| h'Lles io W
Load equate provision for the l.runtturo-hoiuc, the barracks of the body¬
guard, and Um other ^ooeonutAiiLa of reyal residence iJmt we know, nr
most believe, to have Existed at iV-rhepolis; mid m that extent may we
be prepared to bfdieve that a citadel or fort juried in a deuiehvd
situation ; though oven m, titer*]: would ap|*>nr to have bue-n nu reason
for the l> rectum on the plain of MervdajJit of sudiM imposing place-
af-nrms a* Diodorus has dcferiljed ; nor dries it wctn likely that palace
and fort would have heon placed three miles apart. But until iouie
punitive tmcis of the whereabouts of this dUd+-l have been brought to
light, 1 shall prefer myself tonceept the rival hypntlis-k that Clitnrclmx
or Diodorus did not know or confuted what they were writing about,
tramd'emng to iVn^potis the structural! feat ares which existed at
Eobatanii and tin other eonteiuporam!oi!5 and neighbouring capital^
and seasoning a nucleus of fact with a magniloquent garniture of
fanny.

Wfi have seen whi-n and by whom the pidimes on the platform were
•net up, We have seen flint. the entire work appears to have been
HiMWrY nf auspended, or. at any rate* that several **f the edifices lackt^l
Ui^irai:- completion. J have given reasons for attributing the initial
destruction of one palace at lerust to Alexander. The only
remaining historical question i-i, at what period the seulpliires and ruins
w r ei e reduced to their present mutilated mmlltiom The fii.ll of the
Pesfsau monarchy, the neglect of the Seleuekhr and ParthianA* the
preference of the HassauLkti sov^gns for other capital^ are all land¬
marks in the long history of decline. From the Amh invasion, in all
probability, dated the first deliberate amt wholesale mutilation, the
defacement of the king's features wherever they eouM be reached, and
the brutal employment of every uvnilublu instrument of destruction.
And yet T think that the moderns, tax have borne their share in the
icGHocla^tic campaign. Centuries d: f Persians luivu carried off thousand*

tc«la of build i 11 g> um to rial from the ruin^ Wo have the authority
of Chardin that AbLuiB the Great w?ut hither for marble [Wc] for hiy
p ilau s and mo qins ; that lumm Knit Klnui, the great viceroy *u
Fai^ T did the same for his capital m Shirai ; and slmt the Minister of

aba Iiure resulted faun a mistaken rquodiothm of GUlftrckirf a very

natuml aUunSan I.i flic aslMMil belli. Who insist Wdl strike Ecmir. wbma
crmlcj HOt f ant! to whom Mil! attribute bmcen might eaiqly Jtnt beam shifted Jnwu
ihc thL the Ij t her lUmdL there b no of *,■>* ivcf hra v itiif LxiBtcd in

the Porch of Xrrxt-:.,

PKitSKFOhhs vnii nnm; nr ins

Sh:iSi Sell I,, diijgustwl ilI- i1ie‘ number i if %tudiou« Eur^»vaik*Wjhu visited
and for whoso ent^rt n.itma4i ei t lift was r ^/1 [u t rt-i t to pro villa,
despatched a party of sixty men with orders to destroy every sculpture
upon which they could lay bauds. Nor do 1 feel altogether happy—
for the credit of these self same Europeans—when I read in thopages
of Le Bruu that bn took a muon from Shirex, and blunted nil his
tools* in the effort to break off and carry away desirable fngmtiUU,
mid that he confesses to having shattered several figure* in piece*.
tVHmps wb nmy seek relief from such remorse in the feet that on the
1*200 sculptured figure*, reported by that traveller to have existed in
hi* dciy, only a small iiDprwsrion ever has been or can Inh predated by
them! petty depredation*. A thousand years henre our descendants
will still rind ample l>olL for pilgrimage and fur marvel in the

monuments of PeiracpHjlt*

Though this is not a treat bo on art, and though I do nut profit to
be an art critic, I yet feel justified in tusking a few observation* in
ArtlHH^ conclusion upon the artistic features and merits of ihe Perse
rritirijiii poll ton ruins, having at least examined them candidly on the
spot, In tho comparative light that is thrown upon them by other
undent Asiatic styles of architect are which I have also inspected in
situ credentials that I liavc Iteen astonished to End art* advanc'd by
hat few of tiraoi* who, from the serene solitude nf their studies, have
propound'd nr hi nff>i upon the nature and origin of Aeluj. mcniaii
architecture. And yet our nutImrities do not always agree, for whilst
I read in the |*ngnH of one that this art waa mimetic and nothing t-W, 1
T am inferkn^l by another that 1 in its main and l*eat features it was,
mi far as we can tell* original/ ■ I shall argue that iSit- tr uth \m P ns
Et rainmonly doc*. between theta extremes ; but in tikis me very touch
nearer to the former than to the latter.

The first and mest obligatory step l b in correlate this Acbivinuakn
nft with the times and circUkuHttukees in which it was pmlnoed, and to
W-tinrj .l »e hi what cespectfi the page of history may provide os with
riw mj Ekxt a eluc. Essentially it was an art —so far a b we can truce it

_of fiuiliki-n birth, of brief dived span, and of abrupt and premature

decay. It was comprised within a maxi mum poriad of ul«uut 200
vearHr starting into being with the anion of the kingdoms of AflWtt,
Persia, and Medk itkte * single empire by the Circuit CyrtLs and perish¬
ing beneath the assault of Alexander. It* existence, m fact, wo*
. fivnehronou-t with that of the dynasty who fostered or created it* and
niter expressing and immortalising ihdr triumph, it shared the swift

1 Z. A. JLiUjoilat Xfrtu} (Story -jf the Sat ion s), p. 303: * Fenriain A rt vu from
tin»t to last, and in Its very casenee, tmitalire, with the sitijdu ra£*?pfcfijn of the
At™ principle of btrUUnp* cccBbtinjt in tbe |Irafnse Use of column-. -

1 Canon OawUcsUD. JijfrA f/rmt Oriental Mtaarrkf, p. 30T.

PKItgiA

revulsion of Uueir fell* What then was tlm historical environment of
Ferria during this period, and with what foreign peoples and styles
u-fts she brought into direct contact I The anawr is simple am i
suggestive. Th^ campaigns of Cyrus le£i tlio new-bom dominion the
lieir of tlie glories of Nineveh and Babylon, &nd planted the conqueror
upon thou* illustrious thrones. For centuries they I Lint supported a
long line of sovereign*. of exceeding magnificence and power, the
stately splendour of whose courts wo* the talk of the ancient world,
nnd ih equally stamped upon Hie pages of Herodotus on the woords of
Holy Writ, anti on Hie exhumed relies of their glory. Succeeding
victories threw open to the Persians the stored wealth anti the highly
developed art k of Asia Minor, and brought tin-so into relations with
tin: Hellenic ailotiioft oil the maritime fringe. Catubyies, (till further
widenipig I hr Imrison of ll midiion T found ansi absorbed in Egypt the
most mwient of civilisations, the most elaborate and Aystematised of
art*. Finally, under Darius find Xurxe-. war wah waged between the
invading armament?* of th+ L Ureat King, and those Europeon repijlilictt,
nlravdy the cradle of freedom* and mtm tu become the nursery of this
purest and freest art that the world hml soon* Ttie EoAt was rapdlgd
by the West; hub in it* retreat it carried otFmuch plunder, and by Us
wealth continued to command the expanding talent* of the rising
nationality* Chaldu-ii, Assyria, Ljcm, lania, Egypt, lirvece— this was
ffJus historical w-ipience of conflict ; and thin too will be found i?« mark
the order of artistic influence nnd pftfgnHriftin

The OMtlst nnd ike most akin of eivilhsalionj naturally esrfciseil
the most }*owerful control. To m> one wild Ims studied ChaldiiuK
IndirM-ror Asnyrian art, a* unearthed from the earlier Mesopotamian
f frjfo orntcmd% or who h familiar w ith the sped]* of Nttnmd,

KJjorfijilmd, and Kouyuujik, will the bulk of the Atihami union form*
pn^nt any novoltv, Ix-t me enumerate in the order of their occur*
renw on the platform nt Forsepolis, the indubitable legacies of the
;,rt uf rieuiiuHierita and NebuchudneraarH The artificially built-up
Hiimwe* tar mound, stone-faced (the As-syri in gHutfurtoji were usually
brick fre ed, hut there im n steme-nisittg to that of the palace of
Sjirgon), surmounted by n battlement, and amended by gmst flights of
.steps (lignin in Assyria, as u rule, of brick, hut sometimes also of stem),
wa* dll? familiar substructure of tit?' royal palaces on ihe Tigm, The
winged mao-faced bulls of tbo Propylra. are nlrm>st a facsimile of tho
nicmstmus ^iie-kc«|Hfl of Kouyimjik and Khmrttabad, There is the
aatuo prH.i 1 , this lamo attitude, the same lofty tiara and curled hair, flic
saiiLr backward iwwp of the feathered wings. The Persopolitan type*
murk, lionAisvw* a later ago, and a perceptible artistic rfSnsmcnt. Thvtv
i m less grotesque exaggeration in their form ; the fifth log, as before
notice I, Inks diflappeored ; the inosculor de velopment of limb is kept

I’KUSKittus. and crnniR itriss 101

vi j thin r^monnble I murids ; tin; wings desorfte a freer upward curve ;
and n notable difference in structure! disposition corwista in their
invariably fronting the spectator, parallel to the passage of entry,
tnskad of being placed fit right angles upon the outer walls*. Sw «®
ihcaft colossi the sole {jtiitutif testament of Ajjjth. Xot for the ftret
time did tin; lion leap upon the kfikl-quarters of the hull on the Per—-
potjtun platform. The conflict of the king with iiundescripL monsters
h ;u | already figured for centuries on cylinders end bna-rclicfo in the
legendary exploits of Jzdubur Every attribute of the Persian mtm-
kHi hud' similarly been creueereted in Assyrian symbol!* tu or etiquette,
Thu king upon hi* high-hacked throne (the very «eat is mi Assyrian
facsimile), the two-staged throne supported by caryatid subject* m
soldiers, the attendants with the royal panowl and fly-flap, the procre-
muitis of sieves, officers, guard*, end tribute bearers.—nil of dicsr an 1
Inmiwed, and almost slavishly Ian-owed, conceptions. If thu go;I
Onnuxd float* in a winged disc above the sovereign of the bonne of
Actin'monos, whom he protects, so had the god A^tir done over hi-
Nim vite counterpart. The very features and stature of the Jang, bis
colossal height, IliH curled hair and beard, hi* royal robe, nn> the same,
whether it ho Asmnuisirjtal or J iarius w ho is depicted. Tim object of
the sculpture, the rwumi tTtftr of the palace, is the same in either
case, viz., the visible ujmthuoinA uf rimji-Htr,

Such and so commanding w the influence upon the nascent
Persian style of the older and neighbouring school of art. At Sure, in
I,,™*...! immediate proximity to the Choldawn plains, <be mudogj-
Ir-iiLa wlut even more direct, for chore. in the atnv-nce of clitt’s and
quarries, brick mul clay provided the only available material on n large
scale ; nud the stupendous mounds of Shush recall the indunited pile-
of Sippam uud Babylon. What may have been the precis* inlluimce
upon Pnrmau art of Ada Minor and the Ionian Colonies of Greece,
it i- difficult to dHtcmiiim with nccumcy : mid I prefer to confinfl
inysulf to a parallelism which none will dispute, rather tjian to embark
ufm an analogical cruise which may be oil venturous, but am Scarcely
lie practical. Nevertheless in tin- so-called fire-temples nt lVwgndu
nud PTaksli-t-Builtem, which 1 hope I have disposwswed of that spurious
credit and have shown toll* mausoleum* for the dead, ».■ have what
ran loudly bo an accidental reproduction of the Lyciaa tombs «f
Telmcsms, AntipheUu*, Apert*-, and Mym, and nut least of the
celebrated Harpy tomb at Xantiro*. Hie reties round the tomb door-
wavs at Foreepolis are Greek to origin. The majority have seen in the
moulded doorway ami pediment of the tomb of Cyrus at Margbah, a
bequest from Ionia, hot this is ft point upon which I urn unable to fuel
anv certainty, and in spotting of Greek inflow** l prefer to ccniinu
myself to the obvious impress of the Hellenic gttaiua.

193

E’KlHtA

Xwb °.™ “ <* history into art and arohirerture

' T "' U "f' s[ - JU,t * r " ,wL( ™ it nr mom rapidly tasted, thru. j„

I ! - r/' f , E m-' M«1 Rma. Oyrti, ^mtiot bare Lm d

wntf dnut, when he is already represented with the symbolical
° f tt " W’I ,ttnrj <*"»% “PM Id* brow. There i» oven mw, to
" ICV “’ “ \ **T* that k* h«*y »wy have been embalmed. \VV

,,ir ? roiJiDuKlarua tluit Ckiiib^sea wried away with him Emtkn
workmen from hu Nile esipclitloh* Very early must tku aSLru
rnw- lh-en Mti to work ; fa P already, j„ t]l0 ^ of tli * w .„

irul aurdW and » novel tom. of royal sepulture coming into

ri , h '‘ °f t, ; JI,L ' lu Pb>«« ir; the idee of th-

L : 1 «f opmion myself that it aria, derived thin idea

teroigr, to tho habit* „f hix country, alien to the p.x^ts of h „

\ fm,,J ? r “P cctac,e ,,f tJlc '^-tombs in the vnJJ ev of die Nile

In will mves the hermetic ooooeahmmt of the royal w Jp*. nli(| t L

wn pmrorl WiMonrog of his title and prowess, an; the objects of the
arobitoet although the differing religions of the two countries
presort bud, m the one cue secrecy, in the ether publicity, for tin-
^pigrophie display. An equally obvious loan from Egypt is the dated
moulding of the elegant projecting cornices above U, c Persepolftan
tiu-h® and windows ami doors. Almvc all I venture to ospms tL
npmiOTi that the Aojnramnj.ro column, though posubly Used upon a
Mi dmn prototype/ though undoubtedly adorned with i.Wk attributes
““ “™ Wj f d wUlt orisii^l capital, waayet Egyptian before

it w as either Creek, Median, 0 r indigenous, and that it adds one more
i mil dcM to tin* artistic stores a iim- of th.r vulltiy of tho 2fi| e t \

; :Wnsid T Ule W, ;ght U ‘ ‘ h * (nct «■»*• « «pito of Media and
.Masamh.mil, the use of stone columns on a largo ^k. which was

unknown in Assyria and Chafcten, was equally unknown i» Poreia
tudi the reign of Kanus, Le. until after the Egyptian .nmpaign of
Camltyses. From what other quarter did the architect* of Pere^lM

‘The «ete. cohuuns-eg. ttene i« i lie famous patare at Ea baton*. * rJ l«xl
.y KemfotOi to Mewets- were of wood, uhiRn-d with pLilrs u f (ndnl Cm „„„

*° they Were. I belle**. Chat, h-nn In crisrin .«, !,* ,i

__ I t . _ ' 1 cin S ,w * tlie juuucr tnct.'il.iilntjvl

, ' 1wc “ f0 «nd m the wmipMmiof |he ChaUnui Ml, | ubs-i-v

r “**

•“ ■*»“■> ““ h-H. Ummm .or EllSto J!a" SlT»

Of the Ktbitrt. ^ «egroe tlic PeratMa south

a# ti 1 nr 1 i ? Iid ,bc f *™ 1 c «* Dh W h C ta „. * It is th .

of tin Poninas in art re have invented |Ids style; It E,moZ' , f ^
nor from Kgypc' 1 ’ * Pertain *7 "« from Assyrfa

PE|iSEPOLl.S t \S \i CITHER lUTKfc m

derive their idea of immense, ami, 41s we may thinly unduly h*w lumll-^
with rn>wde*d groves of pElLit-s, supporting a fine roof, and with
branching calumnnr risk* ntrutching away in bug perspective into the
gloom r True, in Egypt the pi Moral Ml preceded the Sanctuary of the
ileiu\ in Pet™ enilifiiwd the majarty of the king ; hut what the god
was in the Egyptian creed, urn) Pharaoh a* his minister, the king wm
\n himself in the faith of Iran, J„ either case the hall senes
architecturally the barne purpose, ami I coned ve, therefore, the Inter
to have \hxiu derived fmtn the earlier modal*

Critieu have found some difiieulty in agreeing 00 to iht- obligation,
if any, under wliidi Fonda Laboured to the art of Gn^' TJiat
Gril| ^ infcerooime between the two nations, not only on the |*ttle-
hekl but in the relation* of peace, wa* frequent and common
“ ««""■ Hbw many of the statued glories of Athens were carried
Off to Aria u'r cannot tell; hut that the Attic temple* were
PemorsetpNily plundered we know. After the conclusion of the wor p
tlim wa f h eunEtfim ilow of Creek exile* and artists to the
Ai'hjeuiomiiEi Courtp all runted its cither came by ita luxury and wealth.

I have spoken of Greek forms in the Pereepolitan column ; alluding
thereby to the Ionian volutes in the composite capitnl, and to the
string* of ovals, and tori or fillcU, upon the base. The elasticity and
froi Jou] of the Hellenic genius may further In- rectgiiuM in the
movements and the draperii* nf the human body, m depicted in tin-
Klv relief* of FersepoLk, which are h^s angular and couvn iiiioiud thru,
in any earlier Amalie style. If a mure minute corrwpondenoa aumert
with certainty traced, it muht I* remembered, in the firaf pface t Hint
the gmiiufi of Greek art was plastic and of Pern fin nrt structural ; and
secondly that, while the earlier Actmaenhui sovereign* were rearing
their pilliLtcd fuUfa and Qunm-mm* on the platform at PcnwpoLk,
Hellenic sirt was a-til) undeveloped and impeded by arcliuic tradition* ;
stud tliut the Feraian form had been finally idttreotyped before, upon
the a&ctad era# of Athens, the marble of PentcLikon frapad into life
l«nmlh the inspired chisel of PhidW

Tlini, thun, I eonc<-ivu to have been, roughly speaking, the debt of
Persia to foreign peoples and UyU*. Never* hcW, while die borrow*!
iLMjctu^- of t»ucli p she also added something of her own, enough, Iwvond
pnyLn^Hv |Q gufcfltioii. to lift her ntf from the rank of a purely lauita^
tive or nemifl aehCNiL Tin- Ferwjpolifcln platform, though In it* origin

1 Al. DtiiuEnroj, for tnMnnac, w>m» w!jat oijtrurrlr up; 1 la jmrt ] fl Cr^ty
ft P rS ” A rWacatlnn du aculpteur p*™* &*«fc merihl* ^ nfi cell tr^ r£i?n ^-
tilt* no *e imbit quii dana la WUctfm flu twtaih tlum Plm^rra do cmainiJ
rochorchea, tlo UcvtainRi Mnjilf^na Too uc ViklUcubi.it ik Lroaror |iarf>d
™- J n m excuSkiLi L-xcursiu on the ledaosoE of Greek m*m FmUm

art by Al. Pcttut* pp. ^2S4^4.

VOL. N k

n:i:si \

n foreign idea, is elevated into a closs and a dignity of its own bv Urn
monumental solidity of it- construction. No merely .lavish eopybt
would have detected in the fonts]open of the Kufa-i BftWt bo niagnlfi-
cent mi opportunity* Thu polygonal facing of the platform Li ■ Lit
nfuiif-iu mntriviuico ; but I ilouht if anywlifira it wan so wdl executed*
or displayed with »udi majestic effect, ns on the plain of MamUsht.
It is, however, vkti we come to the sculptures of the stntreagus, with
their long processional panels, their inscriptions, and their figure*
thnt ascend the step* with the naceuiling visitor, that wo see the
Persian architect at hia most original and hk best* For dthmses,
nutl their cnpacitii* of sculp turn I display, the Egyptian* cored little,
and the Greeks hardly at all. They bad other ioonostovt* for their
delineation of the pageantry either of religious cnnnuoniiJ or i>f royal
mngnifiMnae. It was the distinction of tlm Persian artist to have
invented and brought to its highest pi-Hurt ion a method whith served
the triple purpose of oermomising space, of adding to the elevation and
ecmsixjuent grandeur of tire buildings, and of realising the solo atm
ami object of his employment, vix, the glorification of royalty*
Similarly in the case of the reek-tombs, though the idea was Egyptian
in origin, the execution owes no external debt in point of combined
dignity and sktIL The deeply-incised cross in the cliff, the noble
facade, the repetition of tlie pi ilrvcv-frontal iifnin the rock, tin 1 tomced
platform .if Ihe adoring king nil these am Persian, and Persian only.
Native, too, in all probability, is the groat domi-bnll capita! of the
composite Gwen-Egyptian column, that so nuccesafnlly crowned it.
somewhat clumsy rimpo and so suitably supported the timbered rafter*
of the wiling. Alwve all, we may congratulate tins Persian artist
upon his slow, bat very perceptible, advance along the pathway of
genuine artistic progress. Not yet had lie learned to make beauty his
main canon, to subordinate subject to shape, to thrill to the enchant¬
ment of movement and form. His footsteps, wen- clearly prescribed
for him ; he could diverge little to the right or to tho left; the king
in lib. majesty, and nothing but the king, was his pre-ordained theme.
And yet he had left far behind the stiff and often ludicrous eonven-
tionality of thi ' ''arliur styles. TV bizarre, the grotesque, the

disproportionate, the iujb,‘ W , _ thnt frinL. ■>.. large

n feature in Egyptian and Assyrian architecture, have been relegated
to » woomlary pln.ro ; and although the conception of majesty and its
attributes must still conform to weil-crtablished rules, the sculptor can
yet find srojK- for some of the statelier elegances of the statuary's art
Having thus rendered to the Persian artist his due, we are it
liberty to notice hi* limitations, both of theme and stylo, No one cu
wander over the Peroopoliton platform, from storied stairwa v to sminnw,
from sculptured doorway to graven pier, no one can contemplate the

PEESETOLIS, ANU OTUfiR RUINS

]^0Q hum jut figures that still move in solemn nsduplkfttloo upon the
without being stnmfc with a senaa of monotony, and fatigue It in
IiluiiIa- all the wne, and tile anise again, and yet again. TIio larger
hinjutuml « ii i Hareidentical, With hut nlight vumiioi^ n L
ill wlivh the same poke®, the teinb h the same flight of -steps,, the

*™c cornice and entablature, the some pillared hn|l p the s&iuct W*-?,
Find nljafi p and capital. Everywhere the monarch is the same. There
w nothing to distinguish one sovereign from another ; nor, though the
features have been wantonly destroyed* does it appear tlmt the fare
wm ever intended to be a likeness, On every bits-relief ho performs
with proud reiteration the wne royal functions \ he site, or stands, or
wjdk^ or with icy composure plunges hhs dagger into the ludly of the
mmpnnt beast, His snbjecU pins in long procession r^« his pr*46ticc.
They represent djil'eront nationalities, and are dad in different garbs ■
hut there is no variation En their steady., i?oreinotnouK tramp, The
mynl bodyguard hold their Innces, and bowa h and bucklers with the
welt-trnixsed rigidity of machines ; but one e*ui scarady conceive urt*
cf these stately automatons suddenly bringing his spear into rest, or
letting an arrow whistle from the string. The same criticism applies
to the choice of theme. Xowbete here, as in the Egyptian and
Assyrian sculptures, do wo sec depicted upon the valh the vicissitude
of armed conflict, hnitl^, camps, and &ii-g* - r Sciinaclmrib fiUaghterin-
Ids foes, the punning ear of IhuiiE^es. Still teas do we oWmi hcimf*
from peaceful life?-, whether it b? the phuuqirrt* of the chic*, or the
luiudeiLts of domestic existence. The Iwm-ri'ttcf- d^clf^ no history :
they perpetuate iso exploit ; they are guilt] c.kh of u plot or -i
Everything L» devoted, wHh mmbnmcd rupetitkm, to a dugle, and tlmt
a Hymlsoiled, purpow, vi*. the delinmtiiin of majesty in in most im¬
perial gun*?, the pomp and panoply of him who wus well styled the
Oml King.

So w e And mid so we nuty leave the ari of the Acliwnimmiut msd
their princely palace Imlk The loaf expression of a strictly Asiatic

limit lu uti m th ° hdr ° f Ch ' l5,|i, *b ftmi Assyria, CIIhI fcgypt, till*

art at once sammed up thrir splendour and composed their
epitaph. Restricted awl enfeebled hy iu purely urtlflujal existence,
lacking alike the tfttnuiu ..f spoiitniirity and Ui f - inrpimtirtij of
papaUr Iwlief, it fell ns eoon tu> the »upport wn* withdrawn by whiYIi
it lnul Ihoii ushered into hang, anil by which for two crmtarieri it hju|
been maintained fit on almost even jonilli. It wra. splendid while it
lasted; hut it had within it no Cngunic life. To the undent Penctana
it exprt«B«l the supreme visible form of human grankeor, not un¬
worthily shown forth to mankind in the person of a Cyrus or a Drams.
Tom it w instinct with the s-iTrmrv lesson of theage* ; it take* its

PKiiSlA

m the chapter of things that have oeas&l to bfr; and its mute
^tonga tit id a voices and iuldregs us with the inetbtble pa ho* of
min.

JfflTE OX Eui\h BTIU* TO UK EXCAVATED IS PfJEAIA

L mny tint unfitly nppocul to n chapter on tbq chief antiquarian remain* En
Pertin n note upon ihn *lte% *IH1 ujiciplurnd nr tnaduiiately csplarah ehnt m&m
especially to Entile the racavmtcr 1 # concern. The attention of nrehsmlo^litB hu
lOUf IwfU OdticnttLiafed upan nlbcr Countries upon the kunhi of Egypt or |Jie
r&oUFid*of MfliapefcinriA. And vet I think that forsla still cOBfWfl-% and mat
iOECLe day yield up, no mean increment or spoil The site* which 1 commend for
iitwsh fnlun IhvwiEgitiGn are the following j—

L PKEteKPOLi™. — The principal building* linen bwn but do ftmlvni

will feel utkflod until the entire platform has hm kid hare. The pmt Enmmd
between the Hall and the Palace of Xerxes nwU Cattlul exam Lnat Eon by mean*
of traairvi ran tranche-, if mt bodily temniul In other parts of ihts plnEforni are
may j*HV depth of rabbit Not till such a gubutakfog Hxutiny hn* hone
applied cm we bo cartaln o£ cmu data. It may who many disputed p^blcms
touching roof*, tHci p colour! tit.% and muHic

'I. NAnn-1'Rn.TAM. -TliO urtihcifll deration on which the wi-rsiUed Fbq*
temple “land.-, opposite the cliff, needs thorough Rnminailpn, All umimd* In
this neighbourhood should he Kiimlarly toted, Thus only can wo settle the
doubt raid'd by DlcmIopls and ttfffred by St oil?, and amtllEi whether thcra ever
was a cUndid ef Fei-rpalis a* distinct from the pikcoplatform By thefte tnean^
nlso, wo might hope to n-ld to out very scanty knowledge* of the ancient city o f
E^FM*|»Sis, or htttkhr

3, Hl’M-—Escamtionfi should In; corned down into the grant mound far WW-
tUr: level of _\l. BieoUfqjV (HoswitIb nfid of ActumoenInn trophies Susa,, which
*tt* tha capital Of several dyrmslla» bftfbta Cyrus, ought to n-^juhte FTissidlk In
Its MpBrincnmbtfnt layer* of ruin; nnd the expend hurv of a few thotunuul poem I*
—possibly of »* few hundred might shed an inei Scribble light upon the dark
riddle* of ETum,

4. Maim Aker.—] Imre urgtiod in the text thm ho neie in Ptjrda is nioru likely
In rei^y Ihufou^h e Xpli^tntlnb and Copying of Enscriptlnm tlum t hb. Ar^aeok^y
has ritivr yet had n fair Held In the tUikhihLrE mountain^.

&. Rfli:v.—Thr mnurji h of Uhey , though &E n dtsLiinro of only sii m i Eos from
thu eJiplUih have Hevat been edmittfioiJly elrptorrsl. [iiEle^d. it in not yet known
tor certain whether they r^pro**nl the site of Rhflgc* or tw>t* They ni* rich In
minute fragniLnU nf Arabic mia* nnd an nmpler and earlier -pod mnj welt lie
bf-kAV. The J4H» ^inarkN apply In a !«* - ilrgr^, to the moumk of Veranhm

6. EcjBATAXA—If Umnii liin bo indeed tlL? BeliUlaimof the 4 kueiems notue
lm+ CdOLnn|rtiM$ records of its splendour *ltonlif be dkcoTeiTtl j han ihcua which
have hEtlburto been brought to light. A tl.oruugh eXominatEatl diould he mra'le of
its environs, [articuLnrly of the elevation known is the Jlusilb.

CHAPTER XXII

FROM SHIH-tZ TO 8USHZRE

■D-Aiy'n v i-oJ TirijTTj^ TjinjX'fc'-

IlELODOTtX life, !*. l±*.

FliOM a contemplation of the vast but ruim-d handiwork of rnnn,
I return to the record of my journey, and to an exjierienoe of the
DrMmit more stupendona freaks of nature. We are now about
by v<*k- to descend from the central plateau of Iran, i.e, from a
1 " M *" mean elevation of from 4 t 000 to G.UUO feet, to the level
of tile sea. In the course of this advance, we must Grufc climb to
a height of 7.-100 feet, from which it may he imagined that the
descent on the far side, which is accomplished within n tract of
country only thirty-five mife^ ill width, and occupied for flu- Mr-ot
part by upland plains, must I*‘ one of extraordinary ftfoepru'tfiJ ;
while the atmospheric cltange through which it pasNtt, and which
is rejected in the venation no lest than in the temperature, is
not less abrupt than that from a smart winter's fh^t in Knglaud
to n Bummer bolter felum b ever known in our northern latitudes,
Hub descent b only effected by a series «r rocky inclines, four in
nuuaber, which have aptly been compared to ladders, accessible to
no baggage animal* but camels, mules, and donkeys, and constitu¬
ting, in their succession and severity, what may In* described without
hesitation as tha roughest and least propitious highway of traffic
in the world. That tilth a route should ever have larcn elected a-,
a main avenue either of pitfsngu or of cotnmerre iw croditaUft,
perhaps, not to the bur at feast, to the resolution of the

TtaraiuM* Hint it should lie persevered in s without protest, and
almost without effort for improvement, is characteristic at once
of Oriental eGBBcrvmti™ r and of a nation smitten with moral
decline. Over such a tract of country, in which koras* though
sometimes ridden, arc commonly exchanged for the more mm-
footed and little let* rapid mule, it will easily lie understood that
no ehajtar wrier is, or could 1#, mmmt&iaed. The post-boras

PERSIA

toe

Would i ■ knocked fn pieces in a fortnight. Accordingly, we have
wiid gooi l-bye to rhe duipnr-khfui*'!ti rite chttpa^t f :uid (lie
ehtfi»fr-*JMffird t who have loomed large in our daily exirtcTiea fur
mi Umg; Bind the remaiuiftg 160 miles of our descent to thi- Golf
ma^ 1*' tmverged by caravan, the traveller hiring such number of
mn lew os are necessary Tor him aud his luggage, find sleeping at
night cither, if invited, in the Telegraph station* and restJjGuw^
or in such surroundmgs. at camvonseraifl and elsewhere, n- lie con
pructnv. The journey is usually accomplished in Eire or in six
days the former being regarded as fairly good titrni, teeing that in
such il country it ia cruel on the unimah to expect of them much
more Ilian a >ttn.rinum i»f thirty milt 1 * in the day; and that the
muleteer or dnti**ttdar 3 who contracts for tlie party, himself
accompanies it throughout on foot. For my own march 1 jiaid at
the rate of live (omnui per mule For the w hole distance ; thii being
a littSe above the ordinary charge, us I pustulated extra speed. I
preferred to ride a yo£ii, or pony, mysfltf, having no fondness fur a
mule, md having accepted a challenge at Shiraz as to the number
of miles over which it was possible to proceed at anything beyond
o foot-pace between that city and the Gulf,

Tam,, 0 f The following is the table of stations and dhrirnucea, a*
™ at|fl reckoned according to toretan and Hnglish standards of

measurement t —

Nmuc Ei| ^tuUiHi

DUluwr

Bute

j ' . lilt! Ud mi;

J'™**' , nniU “

STlUM* (if £tfe!Uittt

111

Appmtlr

■ liafJLQra

>n nkUr*

>himr * (4,TSO fi.) .

=- .

KoiLsr Trim Cell * t

Khnn-e^imnr.$

(ijobfi.) . . .

(S. LOO ft.) 7 , +

7 W

Uxdffei t (SW ft) .

Ifp

Dlsht-l-Arim *

*£ i

* * *

:t 13

AhnuHllf «Shif .

f or 7

15 or SEi

Minn Komi f
(M»> ft.) . . *

a ll

w 21

EEtti.bift’ * , , 4 .

«J

iiv

K-T.IIu«rij t ft.)

a so

Totatl

IIS*

* - l^leumph XtMtkm* t = TeJtgrajilk tlm-bcra*. J = t/nmnuuienil

11 T '- ^ dMttJ BMf (wbitfLOG bout to li iublrt) %2f* Pin Wx, or | C1 mflui. Tim
ratfefron fiMraf to Uwihirc luut bem ifngritai by many of the traoelkrt, who**
1 Jjn=i4y eftw* ** rcE&tfBfte»* for the jourcHW fowl 8hfn* to UMum m
.«r from Eif;i}uin to Teheran, via, by C. KuUihr (17H), W, FmnkUo (ITH7>*
K S«ii Waring Sir J« HaJcrfm (1000* 1010), J. P. Murfer (IS09, Mi),

^Lr W Ou«% (im% W. Price C1»U). J & Badditfhini (|gl«) p CM. Jnhami
Om), Umivnm til Lnm^len 0*17). Sir IE. K. P^ritr iraitt), J, R, Fn*r? (IStl),

SHIRAZ TO BUSH IRK

FBoat siiiiiA/ to msrrmi:

Leaving my kind hosts n\ the Bagh-i^Sheikhj on the western
outskirts of Shiraz, where are the residciire and dub-room of the
Kium-i- Indo-European Telegraph officials, I *Oirrqd nt i* a .SI. on
a cloudy morning upon my forward journey. The rend
iiuikeH for the westerly comer of the Shiraz valley, passing two
small villager on the way. At the diatazica of eight miles wo croefl
a slender fitr mm by rt bridge, whore we a caravanpcrni and a
guard-house, cnlk-d Cheiiar-i-Knhdnr, for the taking of tolls.
Here wo roach the ifN.i hill- ami begin the silent. Soon a turn in
the track conceals from tan the retrospect of the Slmar. plain; and,
on' it is gone wo turn round for a porting glance at the distant
cypress spires, the scattered garden-, and the bulbous cupolas qf
the mosque*. The road continues steadily to ascend, ami after fire
hours of unbroken marching, conducts into an upland valley,
watered by a river with wide stony bed, at present occupied by a
streamlet of attenuated volume* This fo the Kara Aghnch (Block
Tree) T which in aeircuitoos course of at least dOp miles Lh known
by several names, the principal of which me Kiwar and Maud, ami
which eventually fells info tho sea by a creek known us the Khor
Ziorat. Tfc is the Sitiugugus. or Sir ulcus of tho ancients, already
mentioned in my dl^ciirrion of the PuHirgadto question, 1 The rood
follows its left bank for two mile*, through n hilly country clothed
with thorn bushes and a good deal of stunted scrub. At length rti
the distance b descried the w hite quadrilateral of the cavaruiirtimi
of Khan^-Zmian, 1 built nearly thirty years ngo by tho Mndiir-fsl*
Mnlk, a very wealthy individual, who wan Vizier or Minister U*
the then Governor of Fits-*, and who signalised his adminintmtion
by the repair or erection of public works along the SWrttr-Bushiri?
route, which must have earned him the gratitude of thousands of
wayfarers, even though the funds devoted to the outlay had
probably been wrung from n distressed peasantry. In the old

C. J, Bieh (Iffll), Ft, IS. Bhmhi K (1S0D), J. ITm lier (1861), A. H, Moti n^y ( I#iM) p
A. AramM (I HiSJ t (i?ir) C, Undii^or (3HTJ5), £, ^Eack (ISSI)- T*i llie«e I
alwaiM, fur the-, section. J. du Tbirenul ^liSfiJS). 3. jwjrt Ei. ; f^n, VV.

MofluHth (ISto)* Jminai fAi* i* & k ret. fcivu. pp, I1J-S; and (Sir) O.

St- Jvti ti, iAwf, VuL ruviii. 11 113.

1 Vide Ucttes on Ihia rim ti y Cut, E C. Buss 3n I he /tanWp^# */ lAr II (7. S,
(St* SerEesi), tuL t. pp, 71 S-" F IWX

1 Oiudej imjm I ha I the u&mt 1* Kal:d-7p£fil*1i B ur Mine of ;inian r n jff*Fu HJtn
h-nneE^ewl In a|^nram'P, #nd like camwftj-MSCd in lute* wliteh is |ircnl ejochI *n
tho neigfibtiarho«I..

PERSIA

jW&vadal-iiu bene in I860 died M* Minutoli p Pmasian Minister to
the Court of Teheran* it woe also on the stretch of road lietwi^n
Shiraz and Khfm-i-Zinimi that in 1371 Corporal Collins, iLK ik om-
of the original staff of the TvUjgrapfa department, while travelling
with hk w ife mid Jittendmit>, wa-- attacked by n band of robbers
smd kilied. though not Ik-F ore ho had accounted for tw r o on three of
f hr bandits with hi* own hand. Three of the remainder were
subsequently caught by the Governor, the redoubtable Hkaam-es-
Sultimdi, FerhncI Mi ran, who wan only too glad of mi excuse for
bis favourite method of punishment. They Were buried alive m
pillars of mud P wMch used to be pointed ont to the traveller by the
side of the rood, and, 1 dmv say, are ad]I visible, although they
wore not indicated to me r Crossing *n affluent of the river which
Howb in here, by & bridge below the camvangend, I pulled up and
lind 1 iiitch,

rhrt^ miles farther on I crossed the main river by an imposing
hndgo of so vend arche*, the causeway of which* although less
D^tkM. than twenty yeara old, is already in ruins. After fol¬
lowing up the valley for another three miles, the track
common^ ki climb the crest of a ridge on the left, known as the
Sineh Scfid, or White UrcosCimd for some miles is involved in
h-teep und stony slopes, the snrroanding hiUs being now witne-
what thickly covert*! w ith thorns p unci wiki jn.-iir, tipple, plum,
and barberry trees, as well as occ&skm*l dwarf oukfl + At the top
of the pass a ruined tower marks the site of a fanner Bahdiu-,
or combined guard und toll house. Here a new view opens
to the south, on 'o the snug and symmetrical plain <>f Ihudit-I-
Arzen, or Plain of the Millet 1 (which abounds in these parts).
In the wet season the hollow of the plain is filled with a
bke T but, w hen I saw it, was occupied by a marsh, whose scanty
p~rok flickered in the gleam of the declining gun, I cannot
give a better illustration of the bewildering vagaries of previous
travellers, than by saying that their estimates of the length of
this plain, which is completely mountain*brkeib and therefor
incapable of elasticity, vary from sixteen miles by ten—tlm
maximum cahmhstion—to a minimum of five miles by two, I
would diffidently venture ujton fhe > ititnato of seven to eight.

i Hi Ip la thr thliTcr ami pmb.ibljr IrHtfr corral feraa, Lrtlur writers ca,H it
ttf Plain cvf the Wild AhtiornL

ruiiM siuitAit to irsimtE

lhji

miles by two to three. The lake is mentioned a* long ago as the
tenth century by Et Istakhri, who said

It* waterf ore Rwwt and pleasant; they wen? nt one time dried up,
iso writer if nj tuned in thb pine*. All (lie -i i i:t E L ihh an- taken hmJ

When I saw the valley in tbe winter, there wiuj not it *pck
of vegetation on the plain around the marsh, and no beauty in
the scrub on the hill-sides. But that the contrast between the
dispositions of Nature at different season® of the year in Persia Ls
as wide m that between the eontmdictoiry verdicts of travellers,
h evident from the description of Malcolm, who was quite
ravished by the beauty of Itesht^-Ar/en.

This nmol I but delightful valley is encircled by mountains, down
whose rugged wilei a hundred rills contribute their waters to form the
lake In its centre. The beauty of thi-se streamy sutjia of which fall in
a succession of wteode* from liibl^ covered with vim--, ; the lake itself,
in whose clear bosom la reflected the imago of the njmsidams by which
it is overhung : the rich fields on its margin ; and the roe-s hyriciuth-^
nrul almost every * juries t>f flower, thru, grow in wild luxuriance on its
\ borders* made m gaze with admiration on this charming scene. 1

A The village of Dasht-i-Aran is clustered against the base
o% the northern hitta, and imnaodlately outside it is the compound
wiir] of the Telegraph office. From my host, the occupant of

i™u this building, I heard many btorim of t lie wild beast*

with which the neighbourhood abounds. The inaneless lion of
Southern Persia is frequently encountered here, mid it was on the for
Hide of tlic- valley, while ascending towards tig* Pir-i-zan, that
Sir O. St* John was attack**?I. when on horseback, by a
in lB07, a My informant told me that the last man-eater had
perished thirteen years before, hot that the tiariv- ■*, who are
invincible cowardfi T credit every beast with similar propensities.
Wild hours, hya-nns, waives, jackals,, antelope (which ms* course?!
with greyhounds), ibex, and mountain sheep, arc ul*o found in the 1
imtitm riding hill*.

Leaving the village next morning, I pos&ed* ut the distance
of about a mile, over an abundant stream of water* which, gushing

1 Qf irntiil 6V,yrd;^T (of tlw mJ*eaJletl Ibu ilaufcaE), I*. W.

5 X'ir ffAr* vf /W 4 , vol. J. f. 1 ^,

* Sir. A. ArtiukE (JVWd Ay fWra*, 5 ^ 1 ^) gmtslt^ualy tmtufetn this
ailvinlan? with the lkm«S to Mr W, T, Stanford, who ha?) flnvr w?t fool En
at tW timcL—Vi Jo £i#^m /Vru'fl, toL Si, p. <11

PEttSlA

Sttt

J'lif Like

from tin 3 - base of the rock h little above* flows down through ti
cluster of chvnurs and willowy and wenda its way to the swamp,
A si cm! 1 Join i *d budding hero covena a kodaHHjah^ or
^Ub, Hint is said to bear tile imprint of Alla hovw-
Imofs, m coniii ction with which a u astounding miracle is, of r
course, re Jilted by the villager*. In the Face of the rock n cave is
jvgarded ns ti sacred place, and contain* little tin sconces for
votive tapers Skirting the weet shore of the Juke, at the Birth
mile we pass n ruined caravanserai* FLc- ten was alive with
w ild fow l. Hundreds of geera rose from their swampy feeding-
gnounds, niul their clamorous flight resounded for miles. I saw
gazelles (the nhu r or so-cidled antelope) down in the hollow y which
was white with the frost of the previous night, and a fox crossed
my path. Having reached the southern extremity of the marsh,
the path begins to climb the hilts that confine the Eake-budii.
The ascent is steep anil joy le^,; Imt if is as not 1 dug compared
with the descent on the other side, which is long, precipitous, and
inoonceirably nasty* This h the fiiuinus Kotald-Pir^i-zan, or Pass
of the Old Woman,

Some writers have wondered at the origin of the name. I fed
no such surprise. On the contrary, I admire the apposite
felicity of the title* For, in Persia* if one aspired, by
thf- Old the aid of a I**cat metaphor, to express nnything tbnt
was peculiarly uninviting, timeworn, utnl repulsive, a
Persian old woman would be the first and most forcible simile to
suggest itt’clf* I saw many hundreds of -dd women during my
travels hi that country—they always took care to he seen (which
wjiii more than could be mid of their younger, and* it is to W
hoped* fairer sixers)—and I crossed the KotuM^ir-i-san* and
I can honestly say that whatever derogatory or insulting remarks
the most copious of vocalmlaries might be capable of expending
upon the one, could be transferred, with equal justice, to the
other* From the Luke of Itatflit-i-Ara-u to the top of the paftB.
where the descent begins, and which is 7, 100 feet al ive the ben,
is perhaps two miles; and at thk point i a ii magnificent outlook
over ridge succeeding ridge in obliqq^ parallels, towards tin*
Dflalitistiiiv or him] of Plants* that is itself succeeded by the Onlf.
The total decent w over 8,U(HJ fret within a distance of four to
five miles* and is down a path, which resembles an A [pint*
tormntebed, minus only the torrent, Xq Englishman would do

1-im or to* ci r p tr&iuiS

FROM SHIRAZ TU RUSItlllE

5X1

othf'nvi^.’ t.luin dismount and descend m» foot, albeit the 1 V-raiiin
mules are generally s,QTvf<jnted and reliable. Ht same ®>uld not
be said rtf my lit,hie koiw or yuhu, which coma down repeatedly.
Rather more than ball*way down the Old ‘Woman, on u punk or
platform or rock, is started the caravnnBiinu of Minn Kotal (or
Mid-Pass), which lias afforded Mt and shelter to many a weary
mule and cursing muleteer since travelling daya Ix-gan. Vr*>iii
hero can be seen outspread below a volley, five miles in length by
from one to two in width, thickly sown with dwarf oaks, and known
aa the Dasht-i-Barm. The descent to the level occaph-s another two
miles, and an hour is then spent in traversing the valley from end
to end. 1 had rend in previous books of the sylvan delight* of
this grove of oaks, and had pictured to myself a joyous ride over
sdft sward, nnd-'r the shade; and between the gnarled boles of the
noblest of trees, The oaks, it is true, are there; but sword and
sliado there ore none. The road is a desolate track of stones, ami
the trees stand far too wide apart to afford any overhead canopy. 1
At the end of the valley the track turns sharply to the left, make- n
slight ascent, and then, at the crest of the ridge, win-tv a further
valley and a new landscape simultaneously open, disclose* a «b-*‘p
and hideons descent, known to fame, or infamy, as the Kotol-i-

]>okliter, or PoM of the Maiden.

I do not know if the dvkhtrr in question (the same ward as tlm
English daughter) is supplied to have been allied by the filial tie
f 1| S to the Old Woman whom I have already described; but
mXi * from the strung fondly likeness between the pair, I fM
justified in assuming the relationship. As l descended the
Daughter, and alternately comi>fttvd and contrasted L-r features with
thofc- of the Old Woman, I fear that I irreverently paraphrased a
well-known line.

0 nmttfi Littiiv film L-vdior ;

'Hie Kota!-WX''khter is shorter than the Kolal-i-Bir-i-tati, but its
Steepest part is undeniably steeper, there being a sharp zigsng
of 700 feet in the perpendicular, ami a further drop of the
same extent before the plain of Karenin is readied. Furthermore,
an though tin- paving of nature was not tmd enough, man has
stepp'd m to make it worse. In many plans the mad has

* ^,(5 ttmnt-if tliM Oak traJbsd Mwti.*shith U irtylrfltlf and lwgi-> P™l»0ert
by 111. iwtlm Into a flour, knradeU uji wllti tewtey ttmi, *"d *“*«■ ftl1 ® l1lln
cake* at tifMid.

20-1

riMlSIA

J*™ liuttr»-ril up, pnrnpetted, and Artificially paved with lmga
hoiild* but wkitoftgr of sqil there nay one* have been between
tb-.* Uving been washed out and having disappeared, tin- blech*
s 1(111,1 H P lik? i^lntod reels in the sen* and down this hideous
Htairwny roan and beast alike are compelled to sotatnfale at
imminent peril of t wisted ankle, ir not of broken limb. Mv hors,*
jammed his loot between two stones and had a very nasty fall
Th-d.-cent of the Maiden on foot fewfc me about an hour and a
half. From the amount of the ivt-i! the plain of Kazenm hnd
unrolled itaelr ro the eve, bounded at the nearer or southe ast
extremity by an extensive lake, and stretching westwards to a
diHtftmt range of hills, Hie lake is known ns Darin-i-Pirislutm, or
Fiimttr (from a village at its eastern end), and is the haunt of
ttinuinmlle wild fowl, [t terminates in a dense fringe of reeds
nnd in swampy flats, which the gportfiimm eyes with enthimoHm,
and which hr* does not quit without niriple op turn.

At i?n- ifit of Ho- puss the track turns sharper round a prrr-
jecting angle of rock. Hen. in the rep-s or the mountain side is
j(MM* n fw0Brite camping-ground of the Mjmuaeoni or

nomads, wim room over the adjacent plains. Their black
goats’ hair tents were pitched just under the diff and from tin*
women, who were unveiled, I procured some very acceptable milk,
TIjl* MniTiiisenni, of whom 1 shall have more to s flv m u
sequent chapter -*n the South-west Provmeee, were formerly in¬
veterate robbers, but wen 1 cowed into comparative innocence by
the truculent. severity of the afore-im-ntioned PrinceAh-vemor of
hurs. I he nomads of this camp had, I noticed, a peculiar method
of hiving honey. The hives consisted of a number of earthenware-
jam or cylinder?, m shape like a big drain-pipe, laid ride hv side,
and covered over with a thatch of thorns. The em ratio- was through

• From U»r reading ] loira that tld* iirtiHeiol cat*rtrty mre Out mpdt bv
the anthe „f Ijnnm Kull Ebon. Viceroy of fare and or Shull Abbot xt wbkh
*“ Tb ^ rhm "-'■* 11 Fotal-I-Odiiurck. or r,f the wild mujonur,

“ - ,UI h!,ITivei - At **" ™' l <* «» b-t center, El wo, Mtnrtal

by Hajl UohuHUBi-r] IIwin, ft wealthy merelmlit o( Ruabire, 1.1* mniW,. beine
vnnoujly described M |ibltnnlhmpfc, nnr) «,* mem-iiftt}', and tuivin- n-io-

*>» lf"rt 0 Mly mrurrcl by aertdrtds to hi* r.™ comma*.

About l»2th! wn* put m Uumnftb ro[W by K*U> AH Khan, Governor of gawnm
nmJ ilD P rr?j«! Rich to jfimlly that he • nllrvE El I he Simplon of ferfti ■ It

vf , I*. r T " , '! m ? S:l1 h ‘ V mol, ’ , ' r<>f Tin ’ ur Uitoa, nod in uteui IHTii Lw e[Hf
Miebir-.'J-M'ilt, VinfT of Kara; nifiCe which dull! 1 rliudtd himgiao thpt .
penny hot bit'll spt*nt upun U,

KliOM SlitKAZ TO

a sriiiil 1 aperture pierced in a blue oartlicnware pint-*, with which
the pi [K‘ was doaecL Tho homy yielded U axcelkuit.

Ck^e by, at the back of a mined enclosure, which was formerly
the court, iif a ri^t-boubt* Kunli lipr^H" it I ho auucmi modal ion of traveller*^
^Taklii-i- ’ H :l flCulpttiTHd bas-relief on thv v*Kk r one of those dege-
Ttmwr juerate imitations of the So^mnian model in winch the
Kajar princes have loved Id indnlge, The hero depicted m ibis
ras* 1 is 'Timur Mir/ii. our uf tlie Persian Prince* who cattle as
refugees to London in 18-17, lUtur the unsuccessful rebellion of their
father, HuaeijL All Mirza, a son of Faili _V!i Sludi mul Governor^
Genet al of Far>. Thi^ part icelur Ti mi nr wa- t h j vt■ ritor of Ka?/;run;
and on this wall of rock lie had kitimdf depicted,, w ith a tame lion
nt his side* a pEpo-bcarur + some attendants, and a hawk. The
figures :\re more than life sisse* nnd were originally painted and
gilded. They are now almost obliterated, the dislike entertained
for the Kajjir dynasty in the middle of ihc present century having
impelled the rmiimd tribes, and every passing wayfarer in addition,
to inflit-i what defacement they could upon the likeness of the ruin*
glorious Timur- The spot is variously called Takht (Tlin>ije) or
Nakfth (Picture) -i-TImur. 1

At the foot of the hill the truck crosses the end of the marsh
flint harden* the lake by n -nme causeway called the Ful4-Ab*
gineh (Bridge of the Mirror), and strikes across the
K*xiinm plain of Karenin. a distance to the town of that

name of eight ltdks> In descending from Djislit4-Araen to Mian
Kotui I Jind felt a very gamble difference in the temperature ; and
this was still further noceul'iiated on deBcending to the level of
Kmm, which was 3,700 feet lower than iriy «v>4ing-plruv of rhe
previous night* The air was wnrm and Imbny j and presently the
stately crown of duto-pabus, clustering in tlw distance* revenied a
spectide very unlike anything I had far aeon ill Persia, and
brought that country into immediate relation with the familiar
mw uf the East. Kazerun, though lU l*est days art' long

pa?t T is a well-favored spit T agreeable and healthy in climate, rich
in water, and famous both fur its oranges and ite mule** As most of

1 WOulil it b <1 Iif'IIi-vosL that Elm Janu^iujE. A. ApthjJiI spnaki ■>/ till* ■ In mn -
bu^lief Ji " KiQif intenidliug niiris of Arid-tint I'tints, wjunt a mtinwh, liparlty
b*W%ged wi 11 j false halr f in th* fnfclitoti uf Ancknt IVfais^ a tv I T f illU thn i aly
bean led, Ip hgiIaI willi m 1km bcfyl? hint, lib el-.air uf ktatc ^Rcircksl by At leu-
dsuts/ (TkmwfA iWiiti hy f,*i nt nan, tg! iS_ p. l&tf) And I hi- w how Iu.*larjf I*
written I

FEE&IA

tie in ale!earn also ini! f mtn this villngt?, the traveller must be on
In* guard again* r tie most audacious pretext^ which mv invariably
devised by his eftoruaiar, as the hitter ninw his domestic liearth,
mul thinks hoar far more agreeable would be an idle day in tUt-
h^m of his family, than a march of thirty mik am the Aofafr
of the Tengi stain (or country of tew^dotil^H, as this region is Appro¬
priately tenn+'d}, Kazerun Ls cmliiod by patriotic Kiuomiii&wiih a
very kitary antiquity ; but it is doubtfnhi hether lb«- dtj existed prior
to tic Arab conquest Ibn Lhitntah, the Sfoor t tame here about
1S30 A.n. t to vis it the fJirine of Abu Islrnk cl Knzeruni; but this
Individual fieem* aiuce those days to have lapsed into oblivion.
TIw modem town, which consisted of an upper tmd a lower quarter,
was ruined and dismantled of it® fortifications by Jufir Kbn Zend
in the trouble* at the end of the last century* and lias never since

recover^. It now contains 2,000-2 s &0b militant*. In addition

to the i^pecialittes before mentioned* Kazerun has n] wav a been
famous for it* school of pchiema* *»!■ wrestlers, as also fur a kind
of rough shoe of rot too and hide* which HacGr^gor recommended
for our Indian army. Outride is a shady garden, called the
Ragh-i-Naznr, that formerly belonged to Arnold s 1 Ancient Persian
monarch/ Timur Mirza, and i* sometimes placed at llie disposal of
Grangers. I secured curofortoble quarters in the Telegraph office.
A good deal of opium and coarse tobacco are also cultivated in the
valley* which ia irrigated by and is welt adapted for mniiy

kinds of vegetable und cereal produce.

While at Kazcruin whether in his upward or dovnw?irl journer to
or from the Gulf, on traveller should miss the < importunity of going to

Viiii t* 664 l * w ninE I4U ^ Un-reliefs of the undent capital

tiie mini "f King Shapur t whkh oko Wars hk name, and the rock-
r.f tablets of which nra superior both in number* Hire, and

iiii+ n nfc to thirtsc which [ have nlnsodjr drscribod at Nukah-i-Bujftiim,
Shapur is situated at the norik western extremity r>f the plniiKof
Kiumm, from which it U distant fifteen links, one third of this
distance lying along the road toward* the Gulf, which can accordingly
bo rejoined after the donation in Sim pur, :md its objects have boon
uucLv^fully acoomplidied In coining up from the Golf, the stranger
diould arrange |h. make the rxmrmon from Kamarij, starting from
T hero tdiv early La the morning in order to have u long day at Shapur.
where there is no accomnmdatinn, and to get at nightfall to Kazmin.
As my own contract for mules waji independent of this divergency I
was obliged toltireiepumto animal* al Kuzmin for the expedition to

FROM mmiAZ TO ursmiLt;

S07

Simper, Although I did not suwvofl in thU without invoking the Ji.ii! i>t
the governor, who put nn abrupt check upon the arrogance of the local
dui rraditm.

IKdereni travel lore hov<- l»en uonttacLod to Slmpur by slightly
different routes ever the Ko&erun pbiii* I followed the telegraph
RiiV ui pob j a along thii Komarij road for a Httln over five miles,
SliAj'Uf riThrl then, diverging to the right, struck jurrora the plain in
the 1 1 i nvtion uf the north-westerly cliff-wall. The ground wu* thickly
covered with a very | -rJ.■ k3y thorn bush, whorte pretty green Loaf is
Apparently a favourite dainty of the comet, Large numbers of whom I
miW munching the I weigh*, Vgfttfdksi of the big spines* CatEipti of

|- : - --

* CHI At* 41# TflU KI.AIV Or UULXMni

Manemeniii Hint* with lurge ducks tenant the whole of the neighbouring
vaUejn, and T encountered many of their block tents. Tlie men have
a manly nir and civil liearing, nmi tin- women take no [wins to veil,
Near iho Sliapur river their dwelling* are mode imd thatched with
rveda from the river-bed, and are of the mevst primitive; description.
A Monfikiil or fence of cut thorn* tnkes the place of a wall, and fOTOts
nil a1hj.1iral.1I0 enchjffuiB for the flocks* 1 laving crossed the plain
towards iU northern extremitv, the track becomes involved in a
wiLdernf'fia of tumuli,, coi lsL- t i|ag of loo*e stones and tumbled-ditwn
st rueturw. tilling u circuit of several miles, it the Ikomi of the mountain*.
These mounds rise ton height of fifty to sixty feet abuvo the level of
i he surrounding pliiu* Right down through them hundreds of htiu'rt-

PERSIA

shafts have Imcn dug to the lower surface i and the accumulation of
their cmitenta, alongside of the already existing ddbris, makes such il
litter of stonen and rubbish as can «iraly Lie imagined. Hero and
there i* a fragment of wa U built of larger stones, m firmly welded
together that it has resisted Hue shook of centuries. These are this
nuns of the city of Sliupur. I Imd ho; ml and rend a great dual, how¬
ever, of the valley of Slmpur, nod of the river dancing merrily through
it, and of the sculptures overlLunging its batiki, and began to wunder
where these could 1» ; when suddenly the northern cLUF p which is here
a great sloping faeo of burn rock, opened abruptly, and disclosed a
gorjp?, u little over a hundred yards in width, cloven right through it
from top to bottom. Down the fissure Caine glancing and tumbling
this Shapui- river t occupying a stony bed between lofty bonks, fringed
on either wide with n demo growth of reeds, plumy grasses, mid
dowering treos. Already above im further bank I could discern the
famous sculptures of the Hossanifcn in anarch. The gorge, which is known
as the Teng-i Ckiknn, at its inner or farther end widened to 400 yanl%
and then expanded into n valley T round which the mountain funmd an
ainphi theatrical r*m|wirt, with & sheer rack ■ifiee in many parts of several
hundred feet in height.

Though Istakhr or Fem^polk w as the theoretical metropolis of the
Hiu^iinicl Miffereigus, and long retained its ceremonial itup^rtauco ns
Tin- hj,*- t ^ ie “ c^tre of the revived national religion, yet, like their
i.tMjinn tltj AcWn]Lilian pwdtcfssore, the nkffiirclifl of this dynasty
tlmrcd the Oriental fi ibdtiess for change of residence and for lepamfc
evident of royal sumptuoutincs-s and display. Ctc&iphtin, the Part limit
capital, was u second*try abide of the Lin^, In later riunv, under
CLoarocs IL P wo read of a splendid palace at Dw-itagirvEp also in tin-
('hakficun [jlains. Allusion is mode elsewhere to the ruined palneps i if
Hnrvbtan and FirumhacL N‘ one, however, of the Sa&vaidon monarch^
gratified, to (be same extent hh the first jghapur or Sapor, the tnsto for
building on a large scale. Hi* were the great works at Shtuhtor, of
wliieli I shall speak filter; Lis the city between Ibsrful and ^bushier*
whose ruin* am now known as duudd-Shupur. To him is attributed
by aome the bridge of Dizfufi At Kaksh-i-Rustam we have seen the
ha*-reliefs that record bis victories and his splendour \ and now f on a
site to » bicb hr gave bis own name, 1 we have come to the royal city
which he founded! and adorned as the umat enduring monument of bis
reign. Persian tradition,, of course, imTibes a more remote and
fabulous origin to the place, and relates that the ancient city m
destroyed by Afmmhr, and only rebuilt, rattier than founded, by

1 Kha^puT (the cfrinJari Buyer) u & nuitactioa of JDbJayufJWy*, sUt or
Idog, aud^rtr, *on, fj, ting s son, of prince.

mm SHIRAZ Ti> BUSimiB

Shu pur. Ji was over the gale* of He 8a*saukm city Unit the skin of
Muni dr Mimra* the founder of the Msunehi'Skn heresy* w.-is &luIT c-lI amt
set up on high, after lie 3iad been put Id death (It is &nU\ ftiryvd) by
Y&aktw 1,, A. ip. 272-A When the Arabs overran Persia, Slinpur
wan onp of the Hnct victims of their ieemodnstic fury ' t the sculptures
were mutilated and the city destroyed* In tlio tenth centuty El
Istakbri left a very correct record of its ruitii^l cnudjlioa,

ttUtlitWOT «tm buUt b* King £3mpar. ll bnm fuur gnU's tilid in the mid*t
of it 3* a Mnvular Ii31l tff —***—ff like » luwer ur ildCac. . . . In the (I'TrLniry of
8t;a| "tir E- ,i rri mullein.. mul In lint moantiun axr the itntcuH of all I he king* ahd
gencratr, iunl high piWtiv and iltinmon* men who Imre Qddjtort in l^tr*; a ml In
tluit plmw are pump pura-m* who have repm^entjnLun* of 1 hem and the slOfEi* of
them written. 1

This (rang ^ it h curious that there if* not a single roconl of any
traveller kuiivita^ visited lhi+ place—nltlmugh Rircinpfcr giv«»i p appa¬
rently fruni hearsay, a short hoi f nrly cornet dr^riptmiiDf it* general
features, and although explorers *o anient a- Tavernier it in I Thi^enot
both ptttiH*! through Kjiwnin- -until Mi trior in 1809* The rove oon-
toining the great statue of 8hnpur wal n«*t d^overed till Imur* Kinut ir
saying in his 4 Geographical Memoir J that 1 a celebrated idol in also
mentioned which iu votaries mod to anoint with nil ; hut of such ail
image there are no trace* muaimqgjk 1 S'either on his finit nor hi* second
visit was Murier fortunate enough to find the richt mt e„ though some
of the jiofiy explored an empty cavern* Tlie di^rovery Boeuis to have
IwH-m for Major Stout* » few wr*-ks later (in 3 811). and Ida

description wn» euibodlnd in Otuieby s w.-rb, ftirwe thru a number of
travellers have tinted ami delimited the acttlptttm and remains of
Sbapur.*

k Orirmfrtl ftrtyfrtfhg iji 3 bn £ip lill-lsPA ihijrrii^) f..;iii <l the¬

rm- i at 111 calh -1 IIh ainvi r_

1 I appr&rf a h« of thaw: J. V. Iforicr i tsi^K AT nt Jaurnsy, pp, a&.M,
•nml J/i/ifWiV, p. Ii7fl ; ClHa I ^ I jip. 1^-51 1 Hr IV {ItUl),

TVon-fo. toL I. pp. 21^301 e - 1 . Bucfciogtuuu toL Ei pp. 7 S- 1 ? 7 ;

ColfflMl L?ofm«on <1^17). iurri/y /wfli oip. St.; Ljeuttnani T Lnmvleu

(1SI7), Apw|/mi India, pp. J. H. Fh«r (1S21 > r Jv*™*y AJkranfD,

p S2; ^JipLain Mignan (ia30)„ r™tvs>, p. 334 E W, F, Ainivruftii /¥rjv*nJ

-VJwmriTri*. T^l |1 cap, it. ; Barota C. Ih? IfcMi- vd. i. pp.

r] s Toiler jjfllO), .1^ ml. [|, pi- M6-J5I, aful teat;

K. naruhn aod P- Ctale (LM1J, fWfr A*rirwnf, vo3. I, pi-. nu>i

fcl Flondln, Tul. i. pp 4S-S1 i R B. BliiriEng (lS50>, Tir^ Twr*' 7>ww4

tOl. I. fiafLiil.- Vbiedunt Pellkneton Hat/Htumd (k* Old U wW^! p r &$*.$ -

A- H. Movrucy (l^b P Wi F. ^Mae uiat Th, fetCldcbf (I S77>, /Vr-

toL ii.; K. H. Kim-]i (l*7s i r .t*ar , i! iV-rtins .‘Afici/ifMto, ] n i^ al-A SEIr. dv
Ssey. -V/h, Jirr dir. X-n ; V, ItilUr, AWIimdr ro# _Uf>*i p vul. vdti.

p. sift; R rtmmiiL^. Ajrri|f /.rimydirii j i I- 1 , ^pfc-^l, A><: mr«-Ar J^rr-

rArimnr, ml. ill* i ami I’jruJn G. Ri n Imme, JSr St truth Otintftrf V.indJAiv.

vol, w; p

310

Persia

In the stony wildflitifefta rjf ruin Lhat mark* the Bite of the ancient
city, few remains are now capable of identification. M Grier spoke of
ExiiiiiiH underground passages toi Itdirved to osist in great Dumber*
™iu* EkEi-rl m requiring exploration; \mi he could pain no info riant ion

htmsnlf on the pi lint, nor have subHe-pient (m pollen been ionium mr.-
emsfuL The ruins of *m ettcJosm*, tmu Hundit?d feet 5ijuar* T have Ireen
Tirimiilj nppO^^I to U- iliW of n, fortrv-- or a tnosquu. Buckingham,
in IftSfij dlnoovervil two small fire alu.v- like thesis of which l have
•cpokon. near the Tomb of Cyrus ; but, ns Iso ndrertised their porta bilily,
it would appear Unit they have si He* 1 1*^n carried off. The only ruin
of any moment is that of a building fifty feet one wall of which,

composed of lieautifetl jinumny, Ls utill Ending, though iinlfburied in
the wnl ; and which present* a ueotlvri of an arched window anil the
remain* of wmm hub-headed capital^ no doubt an imitation of those at
Pensepolis, that prolmbly once supported nn architrave or roof. Behind
it, Mtirier thought that lie aatw ihe traces of a theatre.

In the very jaws of the gorge, a spur of the sou tli-east diff utnucl#
forward. in the shape of a solitary phs uncle dike rock, the shies of
. which are covered wit-hold wiill*,, and the summit with the

remains of an old castle, There can ta no doubt that t hin
to which the Foraum* |rive tho popular nppelUtian of Kilehh
Do Wilt it, or Mnhhn* Fortress, is the remains of the undent citadel,
atssatutolj coiiuurinding iu it dn*-* the mouth iif the defile. lr is the
structure alluded io l>y El Istakhri in the passage already quoted.

Turning the corner of ibis ruck, wo enter the gorge, rmd are imnm-
1 1 lately confronted with the sculpt wd ho*-relief b, which* like those at
Tt*^ r lit i *' ft '^bu n p have su rrivud the man jn’ rLshal il r aK n Jet urea

of brick or Sterne* and when nil other record* 4if man s handi¬
work ho vis perished* will still transmit to future ages the proud record
of S&soanirm splendour, Df these, tliere nn* two on the right-hand side
of the gorge, i,e. on the left bank of the rivrr; and four on the opposite,
or left hand, hide, alcove the right hank of the river. I will first
describe the two former, which, Iseing on the level of the npecLiUor,
and hnmediately al tings «Io of the road running info the valley, art:- verv
may of accehs.

The first tablet «?n00ttQtol*d him ptufTercrt ■M-ven-ly from time and the
hands of destroyer* 1 It* upper portion Ln» vncirely pemlsed, but in
tins lowtT part an' visible the leg* of two horses confronting each ether.
whn.fe riders, have been obliterated out of all recognition. The horse

* Flavin and Co*f e, Vol. 1 pL 4*. Tfcto fingrftTlng, outnp md with Sl&Uc's.
photograph tcL it pi. 143). johI linalafovV (Z/irf dr tit

/tfrrir, pvt T, pi. j*h n- wl| h* With my nwti, will b- found m ibo

accuracy nett uarimssnen fa tlw- 1 FfeiH!limrn'» rcfrrrdqctinrif of ihs f5cuaan'uia
tculpiua^.

mm smiLvz to m sinuv:

on tin? right-hand side trample* under foot a prtHtnue fippti, wins Hr*
with hi* fjui? turned outwards unJ on hi* right hand* wliilo his

Flrtt kft arm ta .stretched along -hi* side. 1 it front of the koras
stsan in a kneeling Wgim, dressed in tin* Roman tunic, with
outstretched suppliant, Arms, and uplifted face of appeal.
The features hive gone, bat in lHe pose and attitude of fir
suppliants body, of which ! tonk aild here- reproduce a photograph,
ihirnt is ji hirn|ilii’it v nnd pathtw i hat dostrudjon hu- been pnwcrU-fyi to

uhipt
S3La|Hir
mhI

ViknAJa

i-ih«T ttaA-RKLier it Mnrimr taliliuas m rui iM

destroy. There can I*? Utile doubt that the subject of thi* Wndfcf in
the familiar triumph of ttlmpur over the fallen C®*ar. 1 Thn figure on
HiraebacV before whom the suppliant birali is Un? victorious king;
the suppliant i- Valerian; tin? pruatmU figure typifies the vafti|tthhcd
Roman army.

I I should jay lirfi 1 1 1 1 at thr Shikpur-VnliTian -rrh- of Ira-reliefs U c* joined
by UtirdlnMJini a# refi-min? to the rifto** of Sim p nr !l . \n 3W A.Ul. at Katiutfn
WIT the Emperor Julias, who «to killed In the buttle, and lotiwignmmmOEK peon*
i lut woj! wfun^ by the eneqiKfor ffnm his Jovian, i *<» nothing,

bower it. iathis indent to expUdn the third O^un- who so ramtaiitly npj^ar, in
the M'utfitum, or to justify th* imploring nltitmta of the *uppliart.

pebslv

A hundred yah I*, further on* n second iUid much larger tablet comes
m is sight* one of the u^m« tlmt pourtmy die investiture of the obscure
♦Syrian of Antioch, (Vriadis or Ml nodes, with the importnl
inbUfi purple in the presence «f the captive Yalemn, 1 The length
?di-n*i- f hc en tin 1 panel is forty-otic fact, find height twenty

mid s>"h the sculptum* haring \mm much protected by nti over-

i j'f.'L.j,- longing canopy of mn-k. It it divided into throe portion*—
Sbpdf, on horseback* with the temmning chief actora, nn.*m the centre,
occupying a tablet I il feet I inch long, by * iW-t H J inches high; l* L hind
him — i.e. ou the left lintul side of the law-relief — nra two tablets, one
Above the olli+T, with five horsemen in each, following the king;
factughim, three more tablet* hi the lower row* and two above them*
each I fi-vc 11 im be-ilongj ami Pfeefc 10 inches high, containing warriors
mul other figure* on foot. 1 will now proceed to u more minute
analysis, ginning with the centra] tablet* Slmpuris anmljTecogTiisefi
by his turretsl nt>wn.lirtth wperimpoBw.1 globe* by his flowing curled
locks and. handsome featim% and by lit is I ward tied Into a knot helow
the dim* From hit head stream the ria&-tftnian fillets ; an ImnumJfe
quiver lump at biv side ; upon his lugs are the flawing */<T£i/Mvir,§ l i*r
loose Saturnian tn mHcrs. He rides n sturdy Imrsi 1 , disproportionate m
in a]I tlsfW' sculpture*, to the heroic size of the rider. With Ms right
hand he Inilds the right hand of a figure standing by the hindquarters
ijf Jds borne-, wearing a InUfrd wreath «tl his head* 1 a Unman tunic, and
fitter- round his ankles As in the former bas-relief, tbc king's horse
iruinpEeft under foot a prostrate figure* typical of the overthrown army
of the Ibrniaive. Facing the king li a kneeling figtire + olio wearing ft
btin'1 wrenih mid o Ifatmoi tunic., but carrying n Award at his sirfa
In front of the bon*-*a head is ail uiscriptioti in five lines* hut not m the
ordin.irv Persian character, Aliove it a winged cherub or gamut final*
In the tor and present 1 * an unrolled fillet,, or Acmriniu* to the king, 1
The inijorr.mi question in this, as in all the bus rilich representing
the Milie scent** is 11m identity of the kneeling and the standing figure^.
Is the suppliant CyrimdU, ainl the upright personage Va] Brian, or nW
otai 1 I was at first inclined to adopt the former Ittliof far natsonn
into which 3 need not enter. But after n careful examination cf nil
the sculpture*, 1 am disposed to identify the k net! ling individual in
aieli raw witb the deposed Emperor, and the figure whose hands are

11 TfiXiEr, toL 1 L pi l l€ : Flafulirt and Ccntc, vuL L pL fp; fitoblfcp tq\. ji.
pi HS ; DfanlBfey* pan v, pi. 2k

* Merit r Mild rt hrimet. 3nit 1 1 it* U wriin^.

* 3f«kf calls thE* wall-know© ^a^ninn emblem b rhe ser&H of bun* 1 / and (he
ehEmh'ii tfgnfv a VUOnty ' Teiier, qaite mb(akimz 3Li chameter. hivmilicc ft
wdth n i-omu^ipLfl, ctml rrgmds this as ci wavtoring proof that the has rrhef was
exHutcd either Uy tinman |wl™efp, or by Western art tut m

ieravr? nu sRUiT at hrai'CI. rjuTRvrrmia w caiuauia

FROM HIJIKAX TO III>1II«K

liettl I >y the king, with hi* promoted saucessor* Behind the kneeling
figure stand two individuals apparently Fertwtn officer*. t Ijf? one with
a circular, the other with a conical bmd apiece. The cavalry in tho
panel* Ihj titinL Sh&pttr no doubt represent the royal bodyguard* Tiny
wear the Foremn dress, and the right arm of *vkU lh uplift*!, nod the
forefinger pointed, in the attitude lurmlinr to many of thr S
sculptures wuJ rightly interpreted ns a mark of respect Tho figures
Jo the five ffti iel* facing the king are mostly warrinre, of then*

carrying nmsH- ; oUitrn, nly wis the exact nature of which it h difficult
to ilnUTiiiiiii 1 . Tljfv have been regarded by ihe bulk of o.imiiienbtofs
ns M»ldinra of a vmM^uidhd army or armies ; 1 by *omo n* attendants
of tike royal court. The entire sculpt ure b chiselled in very high relief,
and the depth of the rtOCSfl which it occupies is from one to five fret

Here we will retrace Our footsteps, Jiavhig ex haunted the fans-reliefs
on the right aide of the gorge; anti, fording the river, at n abort
distance below the citadel, will tike up tlie inspection of
huik jun! those on the opposite or north-west cliff. TbtP) are for the

f«- 1 1 .i i nilJ! n port far more (iillicult of acorns. Tliev are situated at

heights varying fibrin twenty to fifty fwt fllrave the rivit-b/d .; and
w hatever may onee have Urn the ease, there is new n«> nudway or path¬
way below I helm The place of butrh t if it ever existed, a* it must have
done, is taken by an mpduvL of later and, probably, Arab origin,
w hich luia been scooped and, in places, tanfrellud aleng the face of the
natural rwt—with a complete clijin^ard for the preservation -pf the
I as- reliefs, one of which it furrows right in twain—in order to conTCy
the watora of n smalt spring in the interior of the valley to ft mill
which ones existed lower down in the Kitzcnm plain. In otrliT to
examine the sculptures one is ohligrd to clam her slung this narrow
channel, which in in fart» built up with wfills from th*- river love], and
to go on to ones bond* ami kiwjes in ord+ L r (u crawl through the per¬
foration* in tlue roclu The renMiti why the plumii l dm*-* not iti places
now rutt along the luvul the mVlI, but. as in iliv case of the Ims-relltf
already mentioned, lots scooped an indentation more than half way up
it* face, k that in th* days when the aqueduct was made and used* the
hod was Imtkkt'rl up to the level of the groove. Mesitm StoEia uid
Andrew*, w hen they came here in 1^77, in order to take tins photographs
for tln-ir IcLt^e work, re moved tike® 1 accumulations by digging and
1 1 lasting, and laid nil the sculpture* entirely lure. Hrm-e ilm appear¬
ance that is at first so pujilitig to a at ranger'^ eye + i H the four panels
on this bunk of the river, three are on the mine level m the water -
conduit, I he fourth and furthest h mows twelve feet above it r

1 Tlierc iiM-Eiu to be iiwu fflrffnt reason for identifying thdffl all with Canou
BowHiwu to ■uklien of the ll-ti urn ROO J- Ocrtalsl* the t*u figure* behind
£jtfwlhv are mt f to be m(pw4>_ lh.-maiw-

PRliiHJ A

£14

The first on the loft - Imiid ride of tin- gorgii, ifl chiselled

iti a great wmicircukir buy or apse of the rock, mem thnn lliirly feet
^ i.ii length. w iik'h has lieon ringed a deep blue by diiculouxa-

L. t lr.hr. I I'M-, iiilicis and un account of the greilfc bin* and lnjnute

1 detail of the original, the phonograph which J took of it will
not repay reprcwiuotion. 1 The pnfifl i> divided into four
(mnilJnl hiiuU m rxmes extending 1 entirely round the sijwe, mid crowded
with figure** The two lower hands ftto about five mid a half feet high,
the two upper thrift feet high. In the middle of the Kt-cand row from
the fiottcKiii in tin!- imttp king Hhapur L on Ijor^kitk, enacting a scene
similar to tliat vhMi I lutve last dc$t-ribvL Here a]+o he bald* a
figure* vbul in Human dOstimn\ by the hunt! ; herd alttn he trends under
fm>t ,i j.i[r«-itrill *' foe ; lhi- kneeling form in front .if him h-x-d the same
characteristics wh in tin- former sculpture ; while behind the suppliant
ii fifth figure holds out a royal chaplet to thu king, 1 This being so* I
identify the kneeling figure, ns in the former case,, with Valerian, the
upright figure with tYriiolIa, id tout tr> be i inerted* and the figure in tho
bauJfgrrmnd with an attendant prawtiring to Shapur the wreath which
hr is ;i! ii rut iyi upon his Syrian protege. 1 A winged genius again

limits netirlicadp and pWinta an wimbled chaplet to Sluipur,, In tln-
scalptured t iei w la-hind the king are dejfirtcd his mounted ami U?1m£tad
guards fifty m.-vexi in alL, with the uplifted forefinger of reverence,
fifteen in the bottom row, fourteen in eaeli of the thrive upper /ones.
The pallets on, the other hide, facing the monarch, are filled with a most
in6ftra*tLu^ n-praientarioc of pri*oirtnb tribute-bearers, trophies of
victory, and attendants. In the lowest band is a two-horsed chariot,
or Itoiuan Joyo/ am! a standard supposed to represent a captured
Ibunan eagle ■ a3 -o a iiund^r "t nttennhiLiitft who appear to Ik s carrying
trays. The swmd Ijcuid, parallel with the king, contains * double raw
of Ggutts. <jf whom those in front escort the captured w*r-befK of

* I'ii^, JujwTvrr, Tflirf, vol II. pL 117* flamlin and CWt- r tuI* 1, pi. £13;
mitohkU ‘t'wt. Li, |>L- III r OEinilfcrujr. $*$H v r pL IJI.

* Ttlfer e l I ink - tbia figan? ip pi wohino, I duuhl if a waiiLan api<ars In any oF
the enrlhr 8»N«cbED sculpture*.

* HjiikHnuNWi (ji r n|) p wlio has accept rd the scipplumr a» Valerian la tlm former
miOttp very ttnuiptly ignore M- crinteuce in tfcht Eculptim% including him
aim m e + thmt prim Ijuri tfikftsbrflierv Lel fomt «f the klnp': am] reeo^idws
Valcruni In tlw ptuM figure. On p. tidS. hnir«vnf f hi givt^ a dfffcnmt Mplanatjoij
af the name lo- TvlIer, mfifcrt' he calN the wupfilluit a n third ItninAb* tlw
«rtUA(n >' ef [la< th-fnaEn! Tiatleu, 1

+ Vmm Bawfip**iD (p]i, ttb abilotttly Utmm i riumot, pan of

i he xjwjd «if VaLcf£aii + f«>r fi Sa-imrisan v^hiclr* althoagh in the mtow |Wiratrmph lie
lajTt (hut 1 1 hr princit^d change wtijeli Utae luirl brought in

wAffan Wii* ail aJruot < mile duiLF^ of flw war-chariot.' ati4 ilmt b m»

memtton of their Bdcal ciaployaieiU in any battle."

FKOAI SitJJtAZ TO Ul%JIIAE

VuitTNin nndiiu olcphntit, while, nccturling to Teacier, Ujob?- Indiind luM
tiji draperies in. i Fie path of the cortege. The two upper mw.n depict n
number of attendants carrying spoil or ofloringH on their shoulder*, um|
loading two Huns or luopnitlH, Tim figures facing tbp king in thirty-
thre* in nunilmr. The bottom of the entire pane] hm been eaten aw:*v r
by the filter in the channel before described.

The next tablet k that which Juut Immu defaced by the erosion
of the water in the mill-stream* ami the lower half of widish was bored
Fmjrt j a the labour* of ^losgrs. Stoke and Andreas. 1 It represents

uiiE.-t • T].. uni* of t tn- ^uttaaian -i ivereignfi on honieliurl: t rwuitiiig the
LLr kL * submission and offerings of i-api i vva. The iqatumb advance
from the left hand of ihe aculfitun 1 , which in about twenty-one fret
lot% by twelve fr et high. On In* head ho weans a winged helmet,
fr^m whose centre, between the wings, rises the symbolical ginho. His
hair h. elaborately puffcl and curled ; the dynastic illlets stream in the-
hwr behind Lis head mid shoulders ; bis charger's tail is illicitly
pin it ci 1 ; at its hhid-tpiarter hongs by a chain the familiar tassel or
ornament ; from the king's side depends on immense quiver. The
groove of the watcr-coudim has rut right through the figure both of
the rider and the honfe, completely obliterating the hoik* anil mouth of
the latter. It defaces, in a similar mauner, Urn figures who advance to
meet the king, the first of whom ii a warrior, wearing a skull cap,
from which hi* ringlet* hang in n curled Inudi Iwhind, while hLs anus
are crossed nlnw the Lilt of clu cnorvunu* sword, I It- wear* a hmk uf
resignation that in admirably jKmrt rayed on the stone, |^hind him
are three other figures* with a sort of krfitk or handkerchief ^such oa
the Arn.Iis wear) on the head* wccoiopwiytng a borer. In a higher tier
behind are two cunck with two attendant*. One Dimers Fead in very
well preserved, and mi nlr of gn?at dignity pervade the entire group,
it is, nf course. obvious that the scene represented b the victory of a
Srt—-mid Rnvereigu, and the sulmihsiun of the conpemE, From the
fact that tin- winged helmet does not npjwLir upon coins till the reign
of Yandimn 11. (A,n 2Tfi-SP2) r ii hu been Jiupposed hy some that tho
king in this portrait i> that ummireli ; and Canon Rawbiwm suggest*
that the incident depicted is the submission of the HtgiraUrii, or people
of 3eistjm t w hom he fought against imd subdued. On the other hand,
the facts is a jHrfrut and faithful likeness of fi hit pur [ , a* atiBtf hm .
delineated ; and among the scenes in hi* reign, which have beer*
suggested in explanation, are the eiuLmsuy which he received* and
haughtily spumed, from DdcnatlmSp tbo Arab chief of Palmyra and
lnud^itid of ZennHlii ; the capture of Niaibi.s in !ii- t Homan

* The ntgiavlug of Iflmidin and ("Mie {vt>L L pL ftl> 1* most umiUfaBtaty,,
unit glvtw n rery iaadcc|iwEc lit* of th? oriffiaai, lid* toL iL p|, tlo p B nd
Hkqkfoy R part v. jil ft.

campaign ; or hi* victory over the Syrimi king* ^tdruu. 3 incline to
■ijmo -uch hypotbd^i^ from the resemblance of thu lit-jnil-^ir l--.*■ of the
captives to Hint of the Bedouin tribes of Mesopotamia mid Syriiu 1

The superior elevation of the next bas-relief hns fortunately saved
it from the: aqueous dihtigurenient of the ]mt ¥ the channel hi this case
mi'rely cutting Lnl^ the hocks and posterns of the horses at
uiiViS-i the tuis.' of the tablet, It Lb about sixteen to eighteen foot
high* 1 Two figure* on horseback muet each other, that on
the left side presenting the royal circlet with Kimnuen,
which the opposing ligure Imlila out his right ha Nil to receive, A
Pchlovi LiL^erl|itiHkh in the right-hand conier t first Uy

M_ Lougpdrierv J contains these words 2

Hit- bi the iitiiipr; vf 11 r: Orinirtd-ttoi^] ripper, the dud, N'nr-tn,, Kin." of kings
Arlan aiui non-Arinu P Of lltfl lUCv of I be tMp, the ICE of ttu OlinUii L-war5}4pper,
the IilpI. Sliupun Kin,; of kinfr* A rift n iiml bOh-irtnh| of the racf! of thu the

rtrl-jifLjiir of 1 ho iM! t Arijidutn King of kings.

Wo learn, therefore that the figure of one of tlie horsemen is llint
of SarstSs who reigned from 292 to J.501 A.tL, when ho jihdicaUfL Ho
has usually been supposed to he Hie son or brother of Tamil ran JL, i.c T
grand or great-grandson of Bhafuir I., bul here hi!- calls limvarlf tli*J
son of the latter monarch, and the gmudson of Ardtuhiror Artoxcratt*
It bah Ih^h stiggratitl by Thomas that tbt-i may poesiWy have been a
tSgure kjf speech ou the part of Nurses, £n the desire to ignore the* inter¬
mediate succession of le*> renow ned monarch* ; but it appears to mo
that we shall do well to let Nurse* &|*eak for himself* ami to accept his
own account of Khn parentage, in which there Ia no inherent hnpro-
lability- Of the two figures, that on the right i* doubtless the young
king. He wmrv a diadem, or spiked crown, with the c«.iThv«utloiuil
gloU? riling above it. His hair is idegantly curled, nud How a behind
fus head in ringlets - ■ his expression is mild and benign, ami his short
Ward ia tied in a fcnoi The left baud figure* conferring the nyi/rrr r!* a
is, doubtless that of Onimsd. lie wear* the mural or turreted crown,
above nnd behind which emerge his btohy lockK. The features arc
well pnaemid, and tb* beard and hair are those of eui older mcm than
his rjV«i-vij. The twisted tail of his horse, the trapping of lioth
uteri I r, and the veins and muscles depicted on lheir forelegs are in
a wonderful state of preservation, and indicate no mean level of

' h very whir atk'tsi when Up rails !liis Mhr Corn m-nri cl- mi-lit of a

hunting piece/

1 Teikr, ret ii- pi I l" , KlandEo and Cwtr, vcL L f.L C£ 5 Siolc.% toL ii,
j l I !ll* t 1 MfiidUir* dr* ■'w^n r^» T l> 40.

* |e does, not, howerrer* In tin: k-swt resemble die Miff trim curt* dcplotad by
FtafidSn au-t Cwte T which art wholly fuiinrfnary.

fifth HA^&ELiEr: oikHrxD and nar

irpeaUtor. He wears ji double ortorn, like a quartern loaf, no hb hrtul t
and his hair is puffed out in iinmriiw biuht^ oil either *id^ Hi* leg*
nrc wide apart p and hk uplifted right, luuid gmije what Fkuudin d«-
wriU'p ail a standard. but what look id to me like a gigantic liattk'-aie,
while hk left hand Hji on the hill of bJa sworcL In the left-hand
upper panel an- a mw c*f hU own coortien with uplifted forefingers,
in iIjh panel below \l are a numlNT of Persian milder (thtdr coilFun%

1 ! tifr Teiicr* il 3 m] ; Fkifidifi, ntirl Otic, toL 1. j4, SO; and Stidif,
wu|. H pL 1M.

FRDJ1 ^irilUZ TO MJSB1RE :H7

glyptic ability. The fork in which this sculpture b onrvnd Im*
tUWUlhed quite a bluish tint fn un time.

This sixth and bnu tablet is in a much ruder and dLirnsler style nf
art T and is the h-ji^l well e**cuted of the entiie Berir*. h k in a reecJi®
po deeply -haded by a deep black Sm? (the narrm or wychohu),
that I found it impossible to t ctko a pholo w ,
umph <A eutixtsbi of n gnsit oblong panel, S hirty-four fret in length,
divided into two rows or baud* id figure*, oiw above- th*
holIh- r< In tli* middle nf tbs- upper row «ft& tin- king, directly facing the

FEES IA

21s

tire-fed, and v-on.1 ^ rr^wuldmg thu klc^si, fallowing thv Wiir-hor^- of
(hit mGuard*, wliivb Eh ^addlr-d* but rubrics*.. On Lhv or riglji-

baiul mU 4 of this tahliit, tho upper mw show* a wounded prlnuiLur, and
i mother cELjjtive., with 1 l Lti liavuts tied behind his buck* bring 3i.^, along
by Foraiiin ntttndjtfit* ; whilf in the lower row the foretnoet figure
bold* two ihwapititLed bmck in lira hands* and Lh follow«H by a murder
of prisoner* nui] attendant-^ among whom us a child* in suppliant
attitude, pmtiflhly tin? son oli tin* executed ]«ad®r t and a boy riding n
diminutive el+ ptumt. Canon Rawlinamt, miaouing from tho decadent
itjie of nrt. nod from the iWt that die only monarch on thu Seuwdnji
coin* who face# iIu b fipeci4itor f nod leans both 3intnl> on a &t might
flwordj id Chtoroei Ntuliirwm, line tin hesitation in attributing the
kiu-relief lo the latter *avrr<!ii;n- He may l*e right, though T emu sec
no ground w 3iatsoever fur c i b t Ltlii i g tin 1 sen I ptu re f a* he dot% k t • j i osrues 3.
rewiving tribute from tin- RarnHUift/ the figures of the captives neither
having Ihi- feiiturr.s imr the dreus of Rontatiij, and tfWTT indimtioii
tending to show i Iijm t the 3.mv relief immtiicinumu^, some victory m t-r
an Eutfm tribe or people, whflstf chief wna dliin.

rfueli arc-this seulptured tablets of Shnpur. ft will be seen that
t hey share both the merit a an! I the fault* of the Uns-rriiri* of Xsksli-
■ ■ Rtistaltt. Tlwre is a oertmi n lumtamig heaviuess of style* and
vtiuu rt luck of spirituality or idealism* On the other lmiid t us con¬
temporary Uko&GWes mid as repntfeutntioBH of serm-s requiring a
certain stated in era and rigidity of form* they are both interesting and
cm I mind.de, There are not at ^iuipur any of those spirited i ^uestriiio
combat* which IeikI inch variety and distinction to the muniEui at
Xnkdi-b Rustam and Finuabui ; but the ccremmdal tablets are the
Tiioeit gmndioMi nxUting neont of the - ci li it Sevillian kings. Above
nil, it must ba raaiuzubered that, earning directly after the PnrLhinn or
Antacid dynasty* alien nrt frftdWen cmahed and had di^q^nnin.Hi. these
sculptures testify to a rcimscencv of nut fie ability which h Mil
cmliUtltle a ml aurpri&iti^.

Ttfci* n-iiuiiii t« (*> net'll and ilescriIjcsl the groat cave n nd thi»
iroaj^ «f Sluijmr I., t)*<* toh- niunnnt htiitop (with thu excoptfan nf tin-
Tb- ( mutilBted tois»s if it still «-\i>rts,At Txk-i Bofittui) thnt mrviye*
4tid »utiii rn the wholf of Ppj-hijl HpvcmJ tnn, i-Hits liwri 1 failc-d to iiml
otHlwpar tlut right c*vp. the Hints of iln< neiglilMurhond being some-
timed nljM'Ht, Jin<l not always truthful It is eitiutetl hi^li up in the
fheo of the left-hand or north-west difT uf the inner vnitey nf Slmpmi-,
a Mit,'r iwp of rt». h. Tint high, towering nlrtve it. The asoent ii
extremely long, rottgh, and fatiguing : and tiie climber will hudly
arrive « the mouth within tlinre^imrten . t an hour of leaving tla-
valley bottom. In front of the caveni is a fin »t perpendfoubr mass
of met. over which it is almost Impossible tq uramblo without assist

FROM >\U]i\Z TO iilSHIIlE

mkt, \Vl thi!H [imli ourselvess in the mouth of a pent black orilice
in th-r L rwkf AO feel high, ami NO foot ]jrtnni. Tlx the middle nr the
entrance, at a «hort distance im-ide, stands Jt huge pectarfiJ* four to tile
feet high and ton feet in diameter* shaped from tin? solid na other-n«k-
ITpnn it arc still standing the saruklled fee^ thi rty-nine inches in h*n^li T
and tin? stump.-. of the legs of the fallen image. The latter* violently
hurled from its ait*, 1 has tumbled suleways ; its left arm is broken
short, itui right arm Inn been fractmd at the shoulder, hut the hand
still real* upo n tins thighs the face in terribly mutilated, and the upjwr
jjart of the head amt crown are buried in the soil Neverth*!™, enough
remains to aruible us to identify the pffigy with the likeness of the Imd
ShnpiJi% Til# founder of tln> city and this designer of the sculpture-.
lielow, it is highly likely that he would have mt up hi hi own eHig]f hi
the &ame plnce, while the claim of divinity which is in variably made
fur him and hi* immsON hi the in*v rapt ions, ttuide to fortify the
hypothesis *hidi tradition (as <| unit'd by Kinneir) ooofSrms s that the
image was subsequently worsMpi»ed as that of a god. It wuiilij appear
from the evidence df the vaulted roof over the spot wherfl the status
once stood* that it was originally attached to the rock above a* well a*
Im?1ow, and ™ f in hut, carvel out of a solid stone monolith or pillar,
so a* to present the semblance of ihp king. The height of the statue
would appear iu butu been over twenty feet, that of the surviving
portion being about fifteen feet Flamlin giving tlic length of the bead
as thnw> feet three indies and breadth of nhoultlcrs n* eight feet two
inches Texier has published a restoration of the entire figure, 1 but I
confess I prefer to hb too idealistic drawing the illustrations that
have appeared elsewhere of the figure in it^ existing condition* and
which, tliiiugh differing fmin each other ill details, give a letter idea oi‘
the reality. 1 The dress worn by the monarch doe-, not vary much from
tliat delineated in the baa-relief*, He wears the mural crown, abive
and below which hi* hair atood out in abundant curb ; his iixmtlachc
aikil lienrd are trimly curled ; a necklet issuspended round hb throaf ;
on the upper part of hb body he w ears a kind of jersey* on the lower
the AAijfrrYrrtfi or loose* ipwrt : hb ttWOtd, hung at lib left aide,

1 hv whai lu^tacy \m* t»ccii dbtiiUHd, ,jL * c cannot t*> determined. Tbe in¬
fill ml km of ttntt-j but ii a w holly imwli^uatc cVpbmitkin.

Till' local tiulitioiE ia Aid to fal'uur the I hear? of ttijrthqaftkc. I should ha i fei - -
po»ed myself - looking t« the vkuracTi 1 * u( the dotue* which war* bewaout cf the
lijgin nx-if, ii eh I wa.*, thcnTunf, put of t\w Qiim kpclf, and m tlic txniillaikin
whhlfr itie In ml fro* luSn^fr t« at in hale the a* ell h row to ifitrntkiiwil vJ olcnce oo
the part of Ihe Hu^npnn iatadrvr* hit the nf tenth century,

* VoL ii ph 110, 150

1 Vidr fPnH-Siv. fpnff/j, trrt. s p 2\*‘2 ; rolnnrt JtilitiHin, form Iriffij?,

p„ 43 : Flamlln ami Cwtr. \t*i. E + pt. ft I.

FEES r A

2*0

depending from 4 Snail round Ui> right aJmj citrle>r. Willi n GtOsa belt meet¬
ing it from the left ; ft knot of ribund*. i* tied nt bin wnM.

At t>i4? B-klii of the fnlli't] statue are plnccs in the wall of the cavern
whk-h would nppear to liave been smoothed, propomtory to receiving tm
tnL innr fa*©iption or n bas-relief never been executed. If

nunjflru- the traveller bus been wi*c enough to provide himself with
mndJf’Sj he will nest continue his exploratioji fjir into the
1-n.vids- E.if the mountain. A very proper distrust of the Mnnur^nni
guides lnt-s dkauodej a good many visitor* from making thisexperiintiifc*
A good lleiiU lioWi'MTi rvltUUOh tO W fie£n. At fifty yank fn> 1 U the
entrunee the? cav^, which lia* steadily coirtnu“ted, expand* again into a
large* donnr% 1 00 fi-^t high* and 1J0 feet in diameter. From this two
pLKsages lend util! further into tJte interior. One of there hue at lm
entrance a -.tom' extern or tank hewn in the rock, but after running
for fifty yard* or so comm to an end Hie other descends through
pool* of water Into an immense hull, with huge bialietitc pillarB
<ti^p&udilig from tlis- rr«'if. The total length of llib. fork, to which the
native-' declare that t|iens is no end, It about IGO yards, Thtre are other
gaUerinH and mini In'ft Lion* which have never I ecu properly explored.

having the mins nf Shlipnr, afrer thU exarmiui^ori, I ret m-iKil
in n sooth-westem direction iwerthe outer pin in towards the exit
from the Knfteruh viiMey, nnd rejoined the caravan-track
Am *^ frtun Kwrcru, after one and n half hour* having passed
the village of tihjibntyor Shnbud t mid left the Slinpur river on the
right. It Is at its western corner thar the road leaves; the Knzernn
plain, cri^-'imr a low' ridge of hills, after which il a piece

* 1 r very 1 mAi 1 ■ 91 gn>uiul t and tin 1 31 eiiten* a w itiding gs 1 rgr. known
tm the TWig-i-Turku 11* flint h auls down To the plain of Katmurij*
The telcgnipli-pile.s follow the cre-t of the hills to the right, and
the track, formerly taken, followed the same line. There h also
a mduntain path from Kazerun direct to Karmmj t acrom the
ml mining ridge of the Kuli-i-M alias. It u less than half the
length of the other, but is very and *rems never to be taken

by towts Ckf burden. It wan in this neighbourhood iliut Captain
Napiers caravan wiu attacked mill jalnndcrrd by MnTimseimi
j-i l.!ri j ni t in xls late as 1674 . At length tie- T.n^-i-l'urkan jipeug
011 to the Kninarij plain,, fonr mile* long, by two broad, at the
further ein! of which cm lie dnd roguish t>d the village of Kaiuarij,
with a few datr-patin-waving their plume* above its miserable
bovdk There i* a Telegraph Rest-house here, with u buln-lhmuih,
not unlike a uaperior nirr of tkapor+JAtitich. Here I was rejoined

FROM BlltCLVZ TO HL SHIRE

by my origituil beasts which had 1 ganged comfortably over front
KauGRiii,

ImmodinMy behind tin- village the rood ri*.^, and dimbn a
filxHiy acclivity,, In about half an hour wo find QnraehvH nr the
KotilliJ . top of the tliird of the notorious imturnE stairway*
kiHj*nj between Shinu aud the gcft* It Inti's its rifinie front the
place just lefh, and is the etc*>[wst, and, in some respects, mwt

111 »A l> C L'At l> 0!5f TUC KOTAL-r^V.lU.tULJ

perilous of the four kirfriJj, them belief a shi^r dmp of l„2GU few
in a distance of Icm than a mile, and tin- track \mng m tuirmn
in parte that ms up-coming rannot jm*a a down-going mule, with-
nut if Mf going over the precipice Hut tfiotiph so steep, it hr a
fur less imptrnsAiit experit n&- than either the Old or the Voun^

PERSIA

■ 2 ±£

Woman* owing to tin 1 fact Mint this truck is w-nn in Hie Imn- n -ck*
instead of bung covered with loose stnnre, or regelated with ft
broken pavement, In fuel, it is neither more rmr less rimu t%
Htftbraae, Ehe hmfs of generation* of muW Imring worn deep
indent audits, at regular intervals, one above or l»elow t he other
into the rock. In the steepest part ~ + where the mad overhangs a
vertical raring it has been artificially walled* The surrounding
scenery is singularly wild emd grand, the mountains Wing split by
mighty figures, exhibiting n stratiheat ion thftt h almost uniformly
perpendicular, mid Wing decked on their naked sides by streaks of
many-coloured marls. Ir was on the worst part oj tins descent,
known as the kfrtmr f or ledge of Asad Khan, That, in 1752, rht>
Afghan clik'f of tLnt mmir, ifk, u|K>u tlm death of Nadir Sluiii r
was ime of the clmtiiaht* te the throne, was fttfnck^I hv Kerim
Khan Yn'i\t\ r noting upon the advice of Riotaiii Sultan, chief of
Khhht The followers of the latter were hidden among the crag*
above j the soldiery nf Kerim Khan, who had already l*vn driven
i <iit frotn I -' i!i m and Shims, wh.- pvt,si in the vnllev below.
Betwct'ii the devil and the deep sra there is small loophole for
escape, as Asad Khan found to his cost, m this horrible njnti-tmp r
lie himself <ecaped, and was subsequently pardoned, and elevated
to favour by ills generous Conqueror. The descent of the JfoW
took use about three-quarters of an hour* Following the ravine
at its foot, I then again struck the Shapur river, followed it a left
bank f >r H>me distance* and them turning south, across the plain
of Khisht, reached the hamlet of Kmuir Tfikhteh (Plateau of
kniiti ns) T which ts situated almost midway down the valley,

I saw very little beauty in th«* plain of Khishr. except that
arising from two extensive groves of date-pjiitns, There was n
Plainer great deal of camei-tham and other scrub growing
ght^i aramidi but at what opposite pole* of outward com¬
plexion the >rfts-ns stand in 1%-i^ia. may again !>e illustrated from
the pages of ft farmer traveller, who. this wnv hi spring-

time, left the following regard

‘Among the strain in the fields, I remarked red poppif^ birkspur,
dtMm, wild otte, wdd pinks* mallow*, and soma flowers 0 f the
convolvulus and otitw {tuner* which I hud never seen Ijefore, Thk
being the -.pring V| **Gn they were aU Lu blow, ami gave m enchanting
effect to the which reminded me of a summer* day in England* 11

1 Colonel Wi/m, (isiT) + p 3fi,

wmti SHJHAS5 Hi Hr si him:

L'L f 3

The Frmebmno* Pc+tisn tic hi Cmb t wiu^ nt Kliisht lei and

fun.!id it. m hot that he spent tin 1 whole day lying in rhc river,
where he said thiil k wit-t surround'd by hundrr'tk of fi>U t who
nosed hi]11 all over, and were >o tame tlint he caught aw many ais
lie ploftfittd with liin hands.

For three find it half iniles from Koimr Trikhtrh, the track lies
itrn^s thn plain to the south, and then- mounting a hEIltIie rise,
KuiaJ.U takes n downward plunge of 1,000 frefc T in the Kobil-i-
iSiklhi. or thirl'd Fae*. 1 Tl -■ curses are, in nit probability,
tisose of She ascending, nnd nut of the th-scending wayfarer i fur it

THU. ueftf3lC!i I'ASl

is with flits most prof mml relief that the latter oonli'tnplnt^^ tin
approaching exhaust ion of the horrors of the TengistoH jb jutalx ■ and
tears of Joy are fnr more likely lo leap from hist eyes Ilian oaths
fniin hb !ipw_ Nor b the iMitaUi-Mallu either mu pm-ipiSoun t k»
uteny, or so uncomfortable ji- tlt^e which have preceded it;
although the first part is sleep, and recall* tho definition that wn*
onrv given or a Pend an iofai, a* the kind of mark that would he
left by the impre^inii of a gigantic corkrow on the vertical side
of a mountain, A causeway Imd at wmr time Wn built in
zigzags up the side of this kuttil* hud tva* In better preservation

1 TM* drtitniEon* which would Iw a epnlim^Of! fmuj Um Amble wjir*** [-.
jmfnjUif, Lnjt duahiful.

PERSIA

IItnii any work of th*- kfud that I Imd *tvn m Pernio Itn surface,
however^ was *o etlipp^ ry tflat it had prudently been almndentod by
rh- cumfiiiiHt which had won* n rotnodai stairway in tins n»ck
Jllimpsillo of it.

From a gorge Ihr clown below came the welcome rear of waters \
and at ii turn in tlie descent was visible the bine current of the so-
iPrtS^i called ftnliki river, racing merrily towards the south*

nv-r west, Ill La river rises in the mountains of Fars to the

south of Shiran, runs north-west under different cintnes, the com-
mcmetft of which it derives from the village of Ibilikh which it
presently waters* and. having reached the Dashthtan or IMniti-kuid.
joins the Slmpur river, of which l have id ready spoken, the two
falling into tha Galt to the north of Hoshlre iitnler the name of
Tiolullnh rftnd-hillah) or Rudd-Shspnr. From die ^uraixut of the
kfrfal to the batiks of the river wns nn easy walk of one hour and
twenty minutes. A light brvexe raffled the htremn* which hero
spreads out inSu n wide pool, and 1 observed fish rising everywhere
to nutund files. The road mnv follows* for u little over a mile, the
ri^li t bunk of the river, passing n mil ml bridge. all hut one or two
sirttu^a of which have disappear^* and then cresses the stream by
n fine stone bridge of six arches, terminating lei h cimsywny on the
fur bblft- This bridge mid its parkin cut were both m better pre*
nervation them any kindred struct ora that I had seen in Persia,
mid were the work of the Musdiir-ebMtilk before mentioned. A
Jo fly nqiiara tower guards the north entrance to the bridge/; and a
^■idy jiatml* armed with a percussion musket, ivus taking an airing
on the pampeh Traffic over the pn^M-. is now eompamtivi-ly wife,
although it is not twenty years since no party could proceed
without an armed guanl 5 hot a f j w urfyiar* or sentinels line still
statiunfd on the remd, fheir uiaihtewince being a tux on the murc^t
village 1 and a few of thesie apologies for a I enconn-

ti-rml lilts road follows the river down a gorge for nearly two
miles further, and then strikes op u lateral mvine. where ati evil
smell betrays the presence of sulphur fti the water Hint oozes from
the ground. In thift ravine we continue for some lime, until we
roach the top of a steep declivity, whence ri seemingly endless
plain can lie discerned stretching away in the direction of the een h
darkem-d by iwivniotiui clumps of date-pa Inis* and terminating in
jifind hills that hide tin* waters of the l*ulf. The last remaining
de-rfutj down an inclined plane formed by n peculiar pitch of the

from BinuAZ t<i nurstintB

struts—a feeble parody of a —alone remaimt; and we am

presently nu the plain t where, skirting the mountain lrntfe, we
arrive in the courts* of n mile or two at the village of Dubki, The
lust stage, which is called four/tcwrA-/**, utid u g[H>d fifteen miles,
had taken me fire rand a quarter hour* to accomplish, for the niosl
part on fruit.

Around the village of llaliki. which is small ami wholly nti*
distinguished, grow a number of plants, known as *jhrtrk T which
also occur, anti are called kih&Mbh, between Skuafaier and
Dizftil. The shrub growi to n height of seven to ten feet,
has large greyish leaves, mid a flower which 1 did not me, but
which is said to be white and purple in colour. From the fibres
surrounding the seeds silk fabrics used to be made; but the mate¬
rial is* now used tor stuffing cushions- Soon lifter leaving i lie
village, the road crosses n stream whose waters run an emerald
green from the sulphur with which they are impregnated; while
i«n ihe stagnant pools floats n bituminous m.’qiu< Sulphuretted
fumes also Hll the air and invade the timtrih* Hie Rev. H. Martyn
described tln‘ place in l*H) ns 4 one of Xht urea ukvrg j f bat the
acerbity of the metaphor tuny b‘ attributed \>* the fuel lhat when
the excellent missionary employed it his thermometer was standing
at 12 U°, A little Inflow in the plain is a bitumen pit. front which
the natives I we long been in the habit of col hating that substance,
principally as n prescription for the sore books of camels, and for
the smearing of boat and roof timbers. It was for the working
of the petroleum springs suspected to exist here that a couce?aioti
was procured from the Persian Government, in I8S4, by Mews,
llota, of Rush ire. Their boring was unsuccessful; but the *-x-
pmiruent has nine** been renewed by tin- I'erauri Mining Rights
Corporation, whose engineers have sunk a bore to a depth of
fivrr eight hundred feci, so for without much result, but who are
not likt-lv to leave the region until it-* otcib-rous capneitu-^ he they
great or small, have been thoroughly tested, Severnl other

streams also flow here from the rnoiliiltruus : and the target of
them meanders down to the plain, and is there lost in n feverish*
looking swamp. Beyond. a noble bolt of drate^polmi ^ipplJcs
relief to the eye, and a living to the villagers of Dnliki.

The road presently strikes southwards towards a low swell of
hilly ground that still separates us from the a#a4ewl; climW this,
alternately ris^ uei' 1 sink-' in Ua undulations, and finally *■ merges

vul* II* Q

FEltftfA

on tbo {laltB^ginJlpd village of Bom^juD (tlw true name is raid
to be Gumzdun, or Place of Boars)* From a distance one might
imagine this to be a place of some military importance;
lk™jnrt |H jr n] ^ ey kwut con be Rvcn the lofty walk and

comer towers of a n immense streeturs. whoso outer surface is
pierced with h * i-pholes only, and presents o decidedly feudal appear -
n 11 C 1 ■. A longer acquaintance with Perdu teaches tlsr? wayfarer
that it cannot possibly u Tort, because every Pension fort, is in
rams, and wntun him that he is gazing upon nothing more for¬
midable than a eanminsk-rai; although among the scores that
I hail seen* this weis ivirhoul exception both t.hfl best constructed
and the boat preaerved. It was (mitt in 1875-G by the Wm&
public-spirit* d official whom 1 liave before mdogiagdj travellers
before that dote haring bitterly complained of the lock or
any si mi Lei r bnilding, l went in and inserted the interior. It
is built of solid stone, well quarried find lnid t und contains, in
addition to the normal recess^., rooms, and stables, opening out of
the central court* a number of upstairs apartments acid sleeping-
placet, designed for the rich and (nr those travelling with women
in their train. The walk of these chambers had been plentifully
adorned by the pencile of Persian vinitora of nti artistic turn ; hut
their imagination had found no higher outlet than the reproduction
of steamboats and vessels with all m\\& spread, the most &trilang
maritime reminiscence, no doubt, to a people pnaset^ing an heredi¬
tary terror of the sea. From the roof of the caravanserai can lie
gained an i ntensive prospect of the plain, of the town Iwlow
(repated to contain (1,000 peraons^of the site at a little distance where
the Persians igmnnMonily evacuated their position wit boat hiring
a shot, in the short .Anglo-IVraian campaign of 1857; and of the
long line of mountains r concealing behind their grim ramparts
those hideous totali which it was such a profound relief to have
quitted, nnd which I hope never to trend again. The village youths
of Jhirazjun were busily engaged in rustic guinea, among which
hockey and rounders (the precise equivalent to the English game)
appeared i<< In- the most popular. Considering that they pluved
on a very re ugh and stony pivot? of ground, and with bare feet,
the mosi eager of English school Ijovs would liave fell, little
temptation to join in the fan. I noticed at Borazjtin that alt the
men wen* armed with big pistol^ loosely stack m the belt; and,
upon inquiring tin* reason of this singularly un-Persian habit.

V\:m\ SIHRAJZ Til bushibf:

beard that it h peculiar to BormjUii and u few surrounding places*
tlie iti h ci I hi fnnt^i of which revel in the open profession of robbery T
mid in the luxury of Uood-feLids T still m a comparatavely early
fttrtgn of esi^tr-ncp. The only other speciality at the tine of iny
visit whs a flight) of locust*, which hud recently appeared, imd
was doing irreparable damage to whatever of gifi ii waft above
ground* Not even the prospect of a good dinner cheap—for, like
John ihe Baptist, the uMivr-s boil mu! eat the locusts ib the manner
of shrimp*—could ncoucilp tile Borarjunlfl to this terrible scourge.
Before bidding a final fane'well to the uiountiiia region and the
kofvfai Jet me lien^ my that it would be paying a most Undeserved
Shirking compliment to the intelligence of the Persian multtoena
OuefcouV to suppose that the route which I have described h the
easiest or be±tt chnnnet of traffic between Shi rax and the On If.
It, » neither. It h a ad that has been selected quite at haphazard,
simply because Homebody -Started it, and oilier* followed *uit T
or Ik-ckuso it appeared to take lhe *lmrtr*t possible cut for Ui+j
required drsthmiiniiL Very of tm it follows tin.- steepest and
h^ost practicable of the various available line*; and the cod tin ait y
wtth which it has now for more Hum ft century been pursued
as the iKuiin avenue of commercial entry into* mu I exit fmm t
Persia on the south, is a combined monument to the apathy and
resolution of tie- Persian character. Bad n& it i* from the
mercantile punt of view, from the strategical si is infinitely worse.
No held gum in the world could bo hauled up those horrible
stairways, although ft mule battery' might negotiate them with
access, Similarly they are ins practicable for cavalry, except
with native mounts; whilst either cavalry or infantry would
frequently require to march in single file. For either comtiiercml
or military purpo-^ it may be useful, tiierefore, to point out thru,
by a somewhat longer d£tour t each of tin; appalling ktjtult above
described emi be turned and avoided: the general plum to I pc
followed taring that of adhering, n* cloccly m potable, to the
chamsefa of the rivers, instead of cutting at right angle* over the
intervening ridges. Thus* the descent to Dalild, the Kotal-i-Hjt]ln T
the Kntal-i-Kamarij, and the Terigri-Turkan, can ail l>+ escaped
by following up from the coast plains tin? left hank of the Shapur
river to the point where I have traced it as flowing through the
gorge with the Snssaninn tablets. By still adhering bo it* course
in the plain beyond, we turn the angle of the range that

4 *

PERSIA

339

overhangs tin 1 Kflxermi vittlfcy, find emerge into the upper end of
the EWfst-bBnrm* or Valley of Oats, thqrj avoiding the Kofc&l-i-
Dakliter. Finally! tin- Old Woman can he escaped by striking
the mountains aU point two mile* east, of the present road. where
the ntngo -dt jsh into the DasbM-Arzen. 1 There ih, .dao r of course,
the morn- circa irons southern route * from Busin re to Shiran by
Fimaabod, but this in coniidezaldj lunger, being about 210 to 220
mile*. 3 It wns down this latter route that ibe Persians br o ught
their guns in 1857, only incontinently to abandon them as soon
as limy Is rid reached t he plain. The ascent would be a more
difficult undertaking, and would require the preparatory labours
of a large force of tappers.

About six miles south of Bnrazjnn h the small hamlet of
Khucdmb. whirl \ was the geenr- of the night attack mode by the
Heroism* upon the British force under Sir J. Outran),
° on February 8. I -Bo 7 — the sole exploit indulged in by
* nv\ It Letter hr 4. 4. Fable In tho J+nrml*f ffu Surirtp vf .Lr/j, AprH 1^*3,

1 Aj J have m otitic n+ni ihv ItELn'birc-FlnLHitwi-Shlmi kjjjt% which b lakcn by
«uhi« h tmv«]tfr“, I Hi4*> a ft*fcWiln i to the dlt:* m -lijAu* which render j,t
nc-l ill >1-. The mqt^ ha* l^r]j by E. S.-diu VlVirii]^ () 4o;ii, Tamrto

l'ji^ i. xirL ' r and Maw. Pswilufey (J 1 j, Xd /fcr j^ 4 rajm KXti-viil, For tltti
-mrctinn fFLfcELi Ftramjbad la Shlrm. riife t he -nu Lti->jTiC Se& eiitr-ti In f l *■ Table of Itente?
at '-hi* eruJ e! cap. it, Flrui.kS.imL. tft- the Abode of Vielory, U ihe tom n[\*n in
tl m laflitta ceotuir by LlK And-od-EkJWlnh of ihe ttciTfl-tl dyau.it v In a place
originally founded by ihc Afl)«WirnSan # mild imbserjuenriy 0 TuWlii?ihe 4 by the
Sut^lu taormre^ aind known ii* Jar, Kluur. or (iur. Ilrre Arrteufdr Jti hr him
built n [5iilrW« mm 5 a jntwl <# JSfrMcniplt Til* tvliiajas dow visible at

Flm»tad arc four La n amber : ft) the JUlfikd-Dckhter, » mLned auric upon
llw freight* camnuitutftig th" Ten£-*b, tt gnrgfl to the norTfci nif (be town ■ (2) two
jjwalia ht^HrelUlf* (OBlped on the walk af tlna nine rtrfk, lha one repeat (H|?
the «lbj*et of the bw-relifif at Niib^iribxim vit ik Intr^iinre of Aftfrehtr
whii tbo im|M^rial ry«frtiik liy Ormnal. the other reiJfeSenttnp cid c^uePtriaa
coculrti l thttnrfltt ttf a CF^t vaiiltcfl bni]dln^. H^Hcralk r0CCf£hlM<] a« the
imTiWn t»! Arde^hlr, Mioimh anrllnind by h-ijm lit ao earlkr fwrJml (.StMsfc [vol L
Jijk 5)1-3] \nary Hinnjpffff mmiikM 1[ fur the fin^lrnigili:->: I i a minfd tower of
uolifwa hiacir aitwinry, balk up m » plalfwa, add MttJhkn^ tr^H-n of a winding
OnuEiki juccht fftim 1-miY to 1,-wn vrv t I3kt? tlip fbiSjyLahlaa I etc which i>

cn»uii''-Eiiy idnUiAad with the rt^* nfriA-^ah or ftkor of Anli^hin bnt tn
ttjileh Fermi < tfbieir* d* TJrf, vol, r, p. (150) .ittriUuica a *toqkr or milLLw*_v
origin, i hi¥r iJn Lilly mawl llias Flmntbad i* th# oftksliil n-iikdct of the Bdtnltutl
llkhaal of th^ K»hkai triU^. of F«m. For IlLqilm! 3rww of t]ir rn5a* of FLnu&Wb
ridf n^ilin nm\ Cowte, woh L pk. 9f-4f| an d M. Dieal*%, r_(rf Anliqur dr
hi /W*r. r»rt tv pti tTpcm tbo fti^hltvotum of (ho Sa^aalu] ^lLlc!^ hi

Rfraural, ami <d ami ftiiryl^uin in portLcalar, rid? Oman ikwHjBOtt i

£rrr*iA ftrrrt Qrimtnf Mvwrtkjf , cap iiriL; FerfanraV Jftrifry ^ .IrvrA^o^ttfr,
yoL L i and humr/t aud CLupie^ momenul work nlfimly oiled.

FROM SHIRAZ TO HU8UIUB

I Jus main Persian finny in that short-lived mmiuii^i Fbe Britifh
troop* Juul iik.ndtMl Booth of Bn&hire in December, laid storms! the
fort of Reddle, and bad shelled and captur'd Ihishire. Then on
February 3 they advanced i 2 t 20O EngEiadn 2,000 Indian Hud
Beluds troop*. 420 Indian cavnlry t 2 light field batteries, find IS
griiiiH* The Perui&n array* under the Shuja-id-Molk, consisting ol
5,000 infantry, St>0 cavalry, and IS guns, win* encamped at
Bovus^nn. Upon the approach of Outrun they bolted without
tiring a *hot, [saving their minp T Hpiipments, and aimminitioji iu= u
prer to the British. Outturn blew op their pointer magazine, and,
cuaschoa that nothing was to he gained* but everything lost*
liv throwing hiaiacif into tlu? bjtufo, began to march back towardh
Bttfihiro—a movement which the lVruiiint-, who an? learned in the
casuistry of retruai, have always interpreted as a sign of cliaciim-
fiture. In the night the Persian cavalry attacked the column*
while the infantry were found drawn up at Khofihub. The
cavalry and artillery of the British very soon decided the contest.
Jim! by the early morning the Persian* were in full flight, having
700 kilb^d, art ngaiiiKt 16 of the British force- Tim theatre of war
wag then tnm*1onvd in the Karon, where, in a later chapter, 1
ahull allude to the even le^s creditable show made by fcha of

the Slink. It wtkfi probably not a very wise step to nciid a British
fbreo to Busbire nt nib unless we meant to hold the place* As it was.
the war partook of the nature of a series of demon*tmtLona T which
were rather a utij manly cut short by the Treaty of Pnri> in March-
The ordinary caravan-truck from Bomxjuii to Bnshire runs rid
Ahnu-di (where is a raravaitseiTn), and across the low-lying* often
fiwampv ground* called tint Ma*hileh„ tlaii ootttiecta the
peniliiiillauF Bushin* with tins mainland, The distance in
a little under forty mile*. For stick, however, a* are fortunate
enough to receive the British Repdmt b hospitality, and the
Kan of hia steam-launch, a shorter route is. available from Borazynn
to Shif. a distance of twenty-five tmlv*; whence a daert ~ra p&AHag*
ocrcitiJH tho arm of the tin IT that severs Bunhiro from flic coaafc
deposit* the delighted traveller nl the terminus of his journey * The
raid! to Sluf is a* smooth as a billiard table, crawling over which at
apace adapted to the tnovrnu-ms of fired baggagiMnnles i* <dow
wort. At Kbiudiflb the inhabitenls were engaged in slinking I ho
he lists from the bough* of the tamarisk trees* and greedily picking
them tip and stuffing them into sack* for future uh at tha

PERSIA

JSW

breakfast table, Here I left, the telegmjiti poW, which take a
irirm- southerly line to Ahrnedi, and ateet^J a westerly <an<rse for
Shif. A got hI mm iv Biittd-jjrrmn* wrn< vidiLR- un the way, and.
idii-r the lu-dilon of game in genera], were os iinnoyinglv tame to
till- unarmed voyager on howk-t a* they an- wild to tin* aporta-
,rau > 011 f(MI a pun. Though [] ]e temperature was cool and
pl.-nsaut, a mirage trembled a We the baited soil, and gave frequent
pinup,.'- „r a *»a that ever receded. and ,.,f islets that resolved
thitowlvns into tiny heap* of mini Tin- distorting pnwera of the
illusion (coll, d «7 Wj by tin* PorsHUis)seemed to Ik- limited to objects
near the surface, but njKm that level there was DD Umit to its
achievements; for what appeared ar some distance to bathe rnitia of
“ “*«■“*» tnarblr edifice were converted open approach into the
tank members of an old white horse browsing upon the scrub. 1 At
letijrth was visible a square building with « tower, that turned out
t« be the solitary gfoiy, nay, the sole struct are of Shir. |t i,,
dilapidated caravanserai, standing within a tew rardn of n slimy
hwh. where a iluggioli water laps the «md/ Colonel RnesV
launch was lying a quarter of a mile off: and n bout,
to transfer m - to its welcome variety of Jon mu .lion. How glad [
was to lake off the saddle and And 1 1 tel tags and holsters, to suygood-
bye to my rickety y.,k«, arid to fed that I had without ,mv
accident pas-od through Persia from sen to sea. Mltif fac?-s a
shallow hoy, Oh the opposite side «r which is the small fishi.,..
vdlage of Sheikh Sand. Rounding this point, we came out info
the open t»y, and steered a line straight aero*, for Boshire. whom*
wmd-towew and occasional palms swelled into larger prominenc*
***** (hr wav*. Steamers tossing in the efling, quite three mites
away, tWmled the nature..f tin- anchorage at the tirst port in
Persia. Skirting the eastern face of the town, which, though
squalid enough to n now comer, deserve* a high rank amongst
Persian maritime cities. the launch deposited me at the Governors
Bunder. The Union Jack stream mg from Uie t,.p of a gigantic must
-by fur the loftiest object in BtuOiire—proclaimed the rite of the
British Residency ; and ill ten minutes time [ w:is the neat and
inmate of an English botne. ^

Bush ire (lit. Abu Shell r)» is n town without a history, or at

' F<rf Jill MeeUMjt <lewH|,lkifi 0 f Lbe Ajtuujr Wiiw. M I.. *,

ander („ til, surah HuongD Sordid, r*A" Q u | rt . o,rt. ,| b ^ h *****'

Tlw ^u on , u. Filter of Oilio,, wvuma te wrrr<

IBOM SHIEAZ TO JlLSlUltE

23 I

least with only sttoh a lii*tory il-: ao exigence of l^i* years ctm
is apply- Originally a *nmll (idling village, it wuh selected by
Nadir Slmli in the middle of the hist century m hie
Bashirc gfiutheni port, mill the dockyard of the navy which he
sispfcd to create in tins Golf. A little later. a(Ut the collapse
of rhidr busmen At Bunder AbW, the East India Company
tmn^iVrft'd their factory t.. Bashire* when? tiny received
eonl'erring trading privileges upon item from Kerim Khali Z< + sid.
Matters progressed very Jowly at the out-el , there being only
one English merchant in the place when Niebuhr w:ithere in
17&5- Gradually, however, m the mercantile marine of flu* Gulf
whs developed, and caravans into the interior began to adopt.
Use route of the kvtal*, BoaMre grew in size ami impartaitoe, 1 and
at i ho beginning of the presen I century laid about &,0llW-8*bUI>
inhabitants. Under the jnmipnse increase in recent jean of traffic
both by Sand and sea* tbe place lift* swollen to larger dimensions,
and now contains a mixed population of 15,000 persona. I he town
is nitnated at the northern extremity i*t a peninsula, eleven iriile^
long Iiv four bminb which is identified wilh llie Mesambria of
Arrian" where the fleet of Neorchua emt anchor, and found
plantation* and gardens- Tine peninsula lias at some period been
recovered, from the sea, which only a century ago used sometime*
to flow acit^s the nniTuw neck ini mediately south of the town,
con verting the latter into an inland. Since then the land baa
steadily risen, and this phenomettun no longer eceoraj but the
water from the interior or eastern bty oOGAnoniltj overflow;- t he low-
lying flats m ar the walk, and turns them into a swamp. The town
itself has a rather better dcTatioii, being situated upon a ledge of
sandy conglomerate stone, which project* above the sea-tare^ and
gives the pine* from n distance 4 more imposing appearance than
h warranted by n closer inspection.

The people of Hashing a* of all the coast towns in the

is singular. nrH plHnil \ she! Iwcn-a-r 1 -tAw i* AmtaC. whll+i i* Ftliail,

Ckwral Sehiti-lEer inr-rran Sin- that in the iDimiUliek of ArdMliLt Plated ri, tin-
firrt S:l Msinimi nsoiuimhi lit a ps**rajje whirls *11J® lis-it eri hs*> it 1 ? real U* thu cuilM
of tbc Golf* imtmd by the rjirthlna uiaj, Ardishir 4 *hcti \w m*w Hu- m
pmisaS 0^4, niul llvrft wuaeft a plnd 1 lltfiLla-Artnlthaliir,, an4 a fin?-

U'Hijih '' This mi^ Ihiw Lw^n i. ^j-n E-e-* L Lpit»j UiuhfTV&D lbt< mmSo^ 1 < 1 f (jAVAJihlf.
BnhmatbLr, K@h!n? L

1 Tbrft Ik iui inttfrertfna£ accpimt of Htwfelfr La 1773 , Ln Trarrli irf by

AbiaJuaa PtitMitv-

PERSIA

232

rWhtibtsuL, were formerly entirely Arabs, ruled by n sheikh of the
tribe of MAtaruh, who luid emigrated in i be seventeenth century from
Vtm^ and OuuUi* (n tile middle of th+r lust Cfcutujy, Sheikh Naar
(variously reported n^. being of thi^ family* and of the
NrjiJ tribe of Abu Mnheiri}, a very remarkable man, raised hitn-
H*4f to a position of great authority and wealth, and retained hU
independence tlircnLghaat the reign of Kerim KI mi. Fi e win*

tmister of Bahrein, well ns of Bn^hire, nnd much of the Dfusktkfccui*
and maintained n krgc llect. with which ho traded with Muscat
and India, and on easily mobilised army of devoted Amba; he
imported Nqd atollimifl from Arabia, and greatly improved the
Gulf breed of horaea; and finally, upon hm death, bequeathed to
Ms son n fortune of two millions sterling. The latter, bearing the
same minus received from hh dying father a legacy of fidelity to
t lw eatwe of the youthful Lutf Ali Kh:m t whom he nested to
place on the throne of Per-abn although before long there was
disagreement Wtwn tin- pair* At the beginning of the present
century* Sheikh Abdur Kaimt* grandson of the first, mid yon of
the second, Nasr* was (Josenior of tliudurc; but bin sluggish
and cmwarlike temperament suggested to the government of Path
Ali Hhikhj already beginning to assert its authority over the
outlying portions of the kingdom, the opportunity of int-rferenea*
The sheikh was seised, by the pc rfidioiiB violation of hn oath upon
the Koran* while the minion of Sir Harford Jones was in
Bu&laire in 180!>, and wjih carried of!" to Shita?., where his
execution wo* ordered. Having somehow roved hih life* the
sheikh. in the alternate tip* and downs of Asiatic fortune, fonnd
himself again installed a few yearn later at Bmshire, whore, frem
IBlG-JlO, he wes cotitinnxdly engaged in conflict, either with
a brother named M..hammed on the spot. or with the Persian
Governor of Shim*. A traveller in 183(1* while Sir E. Stannum
was Resident at Budim, represented tlw state of iiffoire a* , rt
critical that guns were planted by the sheikh, ami levelled at
the BeaidiSkoyi which was barricaded with ftimilure and lumber
ami with a breastwork of water-casks and winn-cbeata in the
courtyard. In 1832, thk troublesome chbfrmn, whine naisohkv^
ousm^ss hn.ll izmreafled with hii* yean* was murdered in the fort at
rtorrixjun. Another broths Sheikh Hmara, and a sob, Sheikh
Itaaul, continual the family toctics of internal dissension, varied
by revolt against the floverajga power, mtd spent their days cither

FROM glflBAZ Tfl saa

ill 11 state of armed diegc nt Budiire, or in prison at Shinn. So
nuiiti f> continued till a littli- after the middle of tin. 1 century*
when the Government finally asserted it# (orce, and Bnshirt* has
e?w nee toceived u Persian nominee* At E h >- time of my rmt
(ISStMloj it was under tin- jurisdiction of the Sand^l-Mulk, a
porsou of low origin, nod formerly n Mttndt j' t it-r clerk, hi Mir pre¬
sent Governor of Pars, who had been placed by tbe AmIih^
Sidtnn Eiii Governor of the Gulf Ports, in charge of the coast-fring"
fmiu Bander Bilara to Ja^k. The garrison of linshiiv conflihT.-d
of 30U to 4(K) rerhtu: l and 50 to (SiH artilleiymen, with some old
and rotten gun*, lying mar the Governor*# Bunder, miscalled the
Ammol by the Persians, In the past year 1801) the SniuM-
Mulk was displaced by bk elder brother, the Nizam-e^ultaneli.
who wns Governor of A ra bist an when J was at Sliushtcr*

The change effected in the rulers of Basliire has been reflected
in its population. Till the last twenty years the Arab element
wasr largely in the ascendant, although, to a great extent,
Persian ised both m dross and religion. As trode, however, has
increased, and purely murid rut 1 occupant have deelitif^l, iln-
Itamnn ingredient# have gained tin* upper baud, and now lajgtdy
predominate although the bulk of the people nre still of Arab, or
mixed Arab and Persian descent. There are about a hundred
Armenian# in Bimhire r-ngaged in trade (fifty yearn agiy the
missionary Dr. J. Wolff founded a nciiool for them here, which
mbsnjueutly collapsed), and a European contribution of about
fifty T supplied by the staff of the Residency and Telegraph deport¬
ment, and by the representative* of business hooaes, who haw
much increased in recent years

The western front of Bnfilim?, facing the open set^ is the most
pretentious, For here are the British Residency—a large building
^ with two courts, id whose doorway is always stationed

on Indum guard— ami the principal European residence-
or places or busmen some of which are lofty and t w-j-siony*?fJ T
built of stone T and with verandahs facing the s,-a T The hon rental
lines of the native^' houses at Bndsiiv an- liroken by fn^m-rii
kiiltprm, Qt wind-towers, with narrow dita t4i admit the mt\ and
on some of the roof-tops may be seen awnings, for sleeping in
the summer, Considering the aixa of the town, the tmsrjmr* are
sxtennra^ though narrow nud confined. The bulk of Mie Ktreeia
are both narrow turd filthy, and in tile ojieri space# on the shore

PERSIA

line niny lie seen encampments of low tents, and hi pm or huts,
made of daU-Rtickti and leaver the nauseous domiciled of the lower
dlwaefi of tlie population. Such pratciitionsnem of nir ns tin*
modem town i-ati claim is largely due to the wise expenditure
by Sir L. Polly, of part of the .Mansion Horn Persian Famine
Belief Fuad in lS7iM t in the employment of local labour* On
the southern side, or along the baae of the triangle formed by the
a pox of the penm&alii, the town was formerly fortified by a high
wall with twelve towers an A bastions and two gabhu, in front of
which stood some old Portuguese guns, brought either from Reshirc
or Unmiz. The lust time that this wall was repaired was in 1838,
when Mohammed Siuji rebuilt iL to withstand a possible attack
from the English, who had occupied Kliarak Island in that year.
It hn& flineft fallen to pieces, and is now n model of nineteenth
century Persian f »rt ideation,.

Tlw climate nf Bus!lire is trying though tint acutely unhealthy*
In mummer, however, the heat is exhausting, and the thermometer
ciimiit, frequently registers over 100° Kulir. in the *hmh\ The
ibU^ttr average nunfnU is about twelve inches in the year. Water
is scarce: and most of the neighhourmg supplies are bmekkb.
The wells most commonly in use are situated on the plain at the
distance of over ft mile from the town gate ; hat the best sources
are at five and six miles distant in the direction of Reskiie.
At the time of my visit the price of the ordinary quality wm •>—
(S pub (JdL), of the letter quality 10 ptrlj (2^*1) per donkey-loud,
A large leBervoir to collect mm-water wjls huilt on tin- N-a-front
some years ago by a mil tve merchant, and was opened for the
public uae in April and May* but it* coni elite were found to
infested with the rrs/i/o or guinea-worm, which 2U0 yeifts ngn was
complniti'si of by l 'fmnlin 1 and Kaempfer,* as tainting the water-
supplies along the ifulf-ssMuct*

Though Bush ire is the main port of Pmfo, it pOsHtittC* MO-
thing that could hy the w ildest exaggeration be desenltetl under
pn-sent conditions as a harbour. The anchorage is in mi open
^ iffli unprotected roadstead at the distance n-f some three
miles from the sb&m t is much exposed to galea, and in
lift d weather is huccf>HiMe. E very cargo I ins to be embarked cn
diaembbrked in native Imggalow^, and the process of hiding and
unlading is in cuuta-qnciicc very slow. The inner bay on the
1 ftpi*v <edii, L&ngl£i) p nsL Till prji, 470-f * 4mmk pp s2a^-

FROM SHIRAZ TO JHJSHIRE

S3®

ww=teni side is intended by nature. and wiw formerly n*ed t a
harbour, there being deep water dm* dp to the town* A baiv
however, has formed opposite if a entrance, and hunt* drawing over
ten feet of water eainif.it pcms, The of a dredger* and ihe
expenditure of a few hundred pounds, would remedy this, without
the need of any costly piers nr structure; and the impotence of the
Pemim Gnvvmni(’iit in this respect lends jin additional argument
to those who contend llof Great Britniu ^lioidd not have cvncanted
Bashire, I’nr the rerent ion of which the Persian* thoroughly ex¬
pected us to stipulate, in 1857.. Of fin- trade of the port ! ?-lml|
Npt^ak in subsequent chapter* upon the Gulf, and upon Pernimi
Gnmmt-rtft. I may hen- say that in IS89 the eii-mni* were mid by
the Sandnel-Mntk fur 91,000 tum*i m t or2fl,OO0t + 5 T 0tK) fo?tia^ t <K
l,400L p*hke*h f bis present to himself; the farmer /dm making a
large profit. so Hint the actual ana rant levied upon imports and
exports was greatly in excels of this sum.

About six miles to the snplh of the town an* the ruin* of the
old Pflitugu^’ fort of RcfckireJ Tin* wsv* no doubt the earlier

settlement on the peninsula of Mesambria: for in the

IkiIllN:

man mb bum have ln.vn found bricks with cuneiform
characters,, and other remain* of a cun sub-ruble miiitjuiEy^ The
Portugn^e e*tnblitihed a I railing sfatinn anil built a lijrt here rn
the (rixkvnth ct-niiuy, bat urn re turned out ly the Funum* after
the capture of OrouuG in IftSi, The fort wad repaired in 1866.
and occupied by Persian tn«opH t who made a gallant but mrffocl ttal
tesfeteftee ngminiE the British the latter losing four officers in tbr
attack. It caver* a quadrangular space, 250yards in diameter, and
the rmmpirtfe at ill retain a s-tcep and lofty profile and the remain*

fc 0WW% inrsu'^tji the Imp:—ibU . tmvit ion /jVjj *btkr r if, cJiloi Of eajitoiin
c! oil 1re + 1 e iii ighl \tv l*ai . tArA r (enp •« of t he elt y ) or HtiS-fkfhr. Goikeml Seht lV I ]*F
«ptaiw it &$ Riv-Aidt-hir.

1 Tins print ifsil of Ihro? ini cinq bn .if old 9ei%nLmJ toffifaflioticA, preknldj
of lhr Amii period (ri^f MoH.i i> J\ -• r*r \\. IS); jlik! jum trumrtiso culleo

t Ion of stone tttMErnrlhea«fti vn^hi of rmle stiape rind fatiTK^Joi^ Mated ktpwfth
oaO Lien ware 1M- ur wllh fcocrtn^s of talc, lined ipnirle wjLh

nf Tiituini n, jtnd conlaknLn^ hummn *fcuHi and boots, A goral number rf th£*o
haw been Nlrl bc-Lwrao Ll tub Ire and ItethSre, ml a df-ptU or ftLoui two fwi bcEow
l hfi si3rf:ior. flSKu&llj placed boHrontiil] v In a lon^ line, qua After I he otbcT. Tlw
jAn Are fcbont lhn» feet fn length m4 oao foot In diAftiet^T. Thqy Are supi^oieit
to hove rfiiktAinfd iJifi reronifi* of TkiimitHftnfl, liter the hodv had perished hj
CSp^ilre.— I7A- Oiipek^ voL L p- 2J?,. Afid Colomd JoIjajor. //vm f*dki r

pp. !&-*X

PEItSfA

S30

nf the old ditch. Naur here the Indo-Europeim Telegraph depart¬
ment eJdfted its quartern from Hu shire in 1*70, to a series of fine
building*., in number, with n dob^rcoui,garden, andlawn-tennis
court, Just below, tin? wires man down into She aai. A little
further inland is SMmbacL the summer quarters of the British
Resident, ft commodious verandahs hI building with a pretty garden,
and a mud volcano in the grounds. Hither he retires with lib
htn.iT in the hot months; but H struck me that the place is sit tinted
ton far from the sea to get ihe full benefit of whatever breeze may
be generate! by the Persian Gulf.

Hie Union -lack fluttering fmni the Hiamniit of the Residency
flag-staff is no vain symbol of British ascendency in Hu da ire,
Briiidi The Btearners lying at the anchorage ana with scarcely an
indonev exception British *1 earners; the goods that crowd the
stalls in the bnrnnr are British or Indian goods \ the rupee is as
readily, nay more readily, accepted titan the kmn. There must be
many a, Pern inn wlm hns contracted the smart bodyguard of Lite
British Resident with the slatternly escort of the native Governor*
In appearance mid -trueiiMv tin- English quarter of the town is
nut unlike an Indian Nation; while the friendly sentiments of
the [Hjptslne. ■ were umnistftkuhly shown by the manner in which
was celebrate at Bushin* the Jubilee of the British Qin-en. For
nearly twenty years the interests of Thi* country have hm in the
faithfsil keeping of Colonel Bos- in this distant nutport, not of
British power, but of British influence j and h+- lias lately handed
over to his successor a partition whose Tin writ ten authority is among
the many silent nionutTieuts to the British name.

CHAFFER XXIII
the pastes^ anti pith-eastern

VuIiivinH in caJiifK* ptrntn# fflUiHii*

<Jiia nimlis* Titan;,. ct mm- in fotUllrtiH w&cbi’,

Bihcaquo lpll(j?ri? squah'iit tefftontUmi nfwv,

DnTnrn ifcr.

Ltrc** + P%MmLr lib Si.

In previous chapters I have described tin? great provi nce of Khonistui,
occupying the entire north-eastern portion of the Slttdfs (kmlintoua ;

ansi also the smaller district of Sefetal i, which, lying on the
,,1 lkk ; ' fro a tier m id way between Tran f-cn^pia and t lie I inJii in I leeati.
n “ |11 is strictlyipeuMug the most easterly portionoflruiL There
rein ait] a for tun to *ay somstMag of what may be cal led the eastern-
central and the south-^aatern province#. which m the one case by
physical renditions, wul in the other by «£hnclogic&J diifrnmM*
are separated from the rest nf the county, and Irnve been eapmioidy
either pulsed over or ignored hysoeh travisUm m prefer the beaten
track, and have little taste for exploration* XevcrthidejiSp thes*'
regions, though somewhat dbeatmeded from the rest of Pernio, tuv
intensely Persian in their durncterirtits ; for tley contain, as a
glance at the map will show, cm the nrn> hand, great commercial
cities, remote from the crowded arms of papulation* bat subsisting
in the main upon export and import trade; and on the other
enormous expanse of sandy or inline wildeme^ iwponsiblo for
ghastly voidn on the map. which the intrapidity of no traveller bus
ever, in the foci* of m implacable nature, beau able to tllL Of such
blanks in Persian cartography there one commonly two possible
explanations. Either the empty vpuev fe uncxplorod, or it is tm-
i»xp]oml'li\ Thith explanations will be found to apply to the
regions which wo an- about to examine : although uoch has in
recent years t*»n the well-dirocted activity of Britirili officem, Mm l
ont on purveying expeditions hv the Indian Government to these
parts or Persia, that my mnp ? which embodies* the result a of milch
of their labour, will be found to contain far fewer redeemable voida

PERSIA

YhuI

4nil

KrrniiLn.

than »ny previously issued; while* die sadly disproportionate ex¬
panse of the two mighty deserts is a vimtfltion from which IVrsia
will hardly free herself till the end of time*

I will deni with the cities liefore I coma to the deserts r and
Hjbri frotn the two I will then glass to the interesting bat
,k "* rt * little-known subject "f Persum Belachistan.

Each distinct division of the Persian territorial has its populous
city. In the north-west is Tabriz, in the north Teheran, in the
north-east. Meshed, in the ceidrv Isfahan, in the snath
Shiran. The ptwindes of which J speak can claim two
cities of similar rank, Yead and Kerman, the former
situated 2lK> miles (by caravan truck) south-east of Isfahan, the
latter rather morn than the same distance KOUtfa*eu&,t of Yezd, and
lido miles from the sea at Bander Abbott, Both are fcitnotis and
populous cities: both are sustained by local industry and foreign
barter; and both present muck the same features of habit and
appearance; although Kerman must yield to Yezd, alike in
iniml^r of inhabitants^ in wealth, and in general pwwperr ty-,

Yezd, 1 winch is the capital of a distriot bearing the same name,
in ordinarily approached, on the north, by caravan route from
JLi*vtry Rushan Wj( XaLtL, or from Isfahan ; on the south Ijy
Yiid similar routes from Bunder Abbas, usually traversed bv
cam els, either tid Saida bad or W V Kerroaa* In the Persian
hyperbole the city is known us Dar-eL-Ibadeli, or Kent of Wor¬
ship, a not inapt designation, seeing that It# people, whether
Mohammedans, or Buhls, or PoraEs t are distinguished for great
Btrictnesa and jwal t and that it contains n large number of the
fanatical 13rebrands who cull themselves wtjidj. In history it has
long been known j but, from its proximity to no frontier, hm
played both a less troublous and a less distinguished part than
other citiffl of EesH \m porta nee. It was one of the legendary
halting-places of Sin I and Rustam while uti their march frvm Seistnu

1 Ycnl hnj b«a Vimted ami ilwriW by the fc^wtag European* in the*
jitrtwnt ijcnl kity : A- Papr$ (tfrUBj, I ft* Pr?t* t voL li_ cap xliL; |>r, iL
tNmrnnniin 1 1H34X Kfiam im Oritmt t K, <h i KhmlfcofT (t*G0), Mtrtunr*, pp.

MH (with * m^p): tikr F. Goklml4 (Iwflfl), Triumph W Traotf t pp. ETO-AfS;
Oatoad Eian-HmfihfiBiO), lVr*fa H vdJ_ i, pp, 17A-irs; (Sir) L\ MaeGttgnr

( J*wmev tkwf* ATW«». vaL L pp, T1-M0; K, Flayer (1OT), fm^i*^-/
iit ; A H. Schladlar(lSTS), 2 >pT. ^ *f, JW, :« /Wj*.

I#tl: E tmi), fln> JfarMj in J*rritf R mb L p. 2u4h H, li. Yaaghtm(1 R#$V

Prfx**dimpr rf t\* It , (Sew *th*±L P 1800. Tin Ant dty of Tc*l tu

aW railed ibkiur.

TIIK KASTEKX AMI PUtlTlJ-EACTERX PJIUVINCES 2ft*

I* Furs. In tliR Achfmnemaxi :uirl SasMinuin ibyn I have found in
vnrimnH writoni supposed nlhriutm to Vein 1, which a closer examina¬
tion hits ptwod to relate to I stakin'. With the Arab invasion
ensued that pertiocnium of thn Zornasirmn faith which extinguished
the fire altars of Media anil IfyTcanm. and drove its acolytes to
the more secure retreat of Yerd! and Kerman. Here they have
over since lingered, maltreated hot undismayed: and from this
centre wm directal in later times that happy migration which has
transformed the down-trodden Guahre of Iran into file prosperous
Farsi nf Bombay. For more than two centuries the Atabegs of
Yead njuiiitained an independent rule, cm in parable to that of the
Atnbegg of Lnrietan in the west, until at the end of the thirteenth
century they wore extinguished by the Mongol Ghuzim Khan.
Marco Polo passed through 'the good and noble city of Yasdi f
in 1272: Friar Ckloricnji w m at ns he calk it, in 1325* and
the Venetian Josafa Barbara in I474J Tavern;ier stayed here
three days in the middle rif the seventeenth century, and was
much Struck with the good fruits, while of Hie Indies of Yrad
lie decisively n s marked that * certainly they are the handsomest
women in Pertin/ He wm among the first to quote the now
hackneyed native proverb* that 1 to live happily a man rmist have
a wife of Yezd* must eat the bread of Vexdikhfiflt, and drink tlm
wine of SttfraA* 1 To Englishmen, however. YezJ was bul little
known till the present century, Christie, having left Pqrttinger In
Betuchastun f passed through fche tow u iu ]SiU on ha? return from
Herat ; 1 while a micee^don of writers, whose works I have already
named in a footnote, have in later years co-operated to remove the
prevailing ignorance.

Yezd in situate, as are most Persian cities of any size* on a Hat
sandy plain, bounded by mountain ranges Ijo-t!] on the north and
Jik* uri south* the latter especially presenting a bold and rugged
Hii^rtrqyji.i yG t[i ne> All around the city, w hich evidently once covered
a much huger htirfaee* lie acres encumbered with ruin, whilst on the
east the ever cncirodiiog Kinds of the divert are blown right up
against the walls. Th^ new arrival finds something irujH.ring in
the great extent of buildings, in the fortified ruetiaitia of the
citadel rising from the interior of the town, in the numerous wind-

1 Me fitted U bip ji rtfviI -ilk mart, ujjiJ eu * ■wi&LUkI clrc hcli f

<rf fltt tnU«. 1 Ijli-hj Polo 1^14iUhi tpcrflkd tbi> *iJk mMufncluiv,

1 AjFp™lii Ua fSEr) Mr Trare-ii 4* *

ekelsia

1140

towem, and in tko uiinurn mill front of fcbe Musjidri-JTama 1 or Great
Hi* modem city cuvyra a space idiout two mi las in
length, by ono rind a quarter in breadth. but is not entirely, on ir
onw! was, oncloN 1 *! by walls. On the other hand* th r fort in the
interior* though for the irim+it. part ruined and bulk info or over,
*ti!J retains n doable wall, with it broad, deep ditch before the
onb r rampart ; white the artr or citadel inside the Fort, where the
Governor redder if* :^pimite|y walk'd to the height of thirty to
forty feet. Xoiie of th.-e defences, however* which are built of
mud or of * untried brick, have any military value-, and neither
city nor ait nation baa the feast strength. The town lb divided
Into two parts—the Old and the New-—separated Ijy a wall with
two gates. The Old nr southern town hm seven quarters and
three gates; the New or northern town has id* quarters und tive
gates. Water i* brought by underground channels, of w hich there
nre paid to be over Seventy, from the Slur Kith, on the south mid
south-west - und the domed ftlnunforts or reservoirs approach^] by
steep Eights of steps, are among the chief glories of YertL I itiler-
win 1 if-** public ImiUingWp although repaid to comprise fifty
Tiicirques, eight UHtrf\irx*rhF f and sixty* five public barbs, are deficient
)-M\\h in number otui importance* the nhly edifice of any distinction
being the Mu njid-i-Jamii, in^iife the fort, the erection of w hich
ia atferibated to Amir Ukakmak, an officer of Timur, mid whose
imposing blue-tiled facade and soaring minaret*, although the
main structure is n min, are the most imposing features in a coup
tfcril of the city- The population. which at the begismiug of the
century is said to hnve been 100,000, but which sunk to 40,000
in 1S6&-70, is now report**! to have risen, if the suburbs k
included, in something like the original figure, although 70,000 to
HU/Hhi La a more pmlmbfe miniate fi r the city itself. Thefce totuk
include a variety of elements, there being a Jewish population now
calculated ut 2,000 (they are dMiftgm&hed by Mug obliged to
wraro pitch in front of their coat#), a finer uniting Hindu cnritin-
L eJir. engaged in trade (in 1 Sfitt Sir F. Gold^nid found ^vtmtoen,
in LrTJ five), und a large rturbre or Farm contribution.

To an English viator the latter eemutituk perhaps the main
nt tract Sou of YwkL Hi re for hundreds of years hoa resided this
xirt- inicresting und venerable community, tending to the
d*7 «** ■** nrighbourhood, where they possess a num¬
ber nf village, the arrive of untiring industry and Mpectabk

HIE EASTERN AND SfttJtlt-E ASTERN PROVtNfEB ill

character. though receiving little bat kick* And cuffs in return.
Their numbers have been variously reported us from 3 t &00 to
7,000 At different periods in the century, coufuidoti having bun
habitual between the urban mutant* and the total inhabiting
the surroandbg district. 11 In the city they poehsens schools of their
own, a high priest, and a KticttUr head, four firr-altur*, which in
the pmdeat obscurity of private house* wustaiii the unifying flame, 3
and senrend Towers of Silence or place* of exlire in the adjac^ni
hilts, A few of them arc ZLafamUised British irahjcctA, having come
From Indio, These art- ven,- proud of the ouniiecihm, which they
never cense to prod aim ; and their lending merchant, one Ardeshtr
Mehrcbun, is xi man of high repute, Nevertheless, hi spite of
their riche* and rc&puctiihiliiv,. the community is otic that haw
always Mattered, and h atill exposed to + persecution, Severe
di.sahilitit 1 * are inflicted npon them in the transactions of daily or
mercantile life. Some years ngo n heavy poll-tax was imposed,
which drove many away* 3 within the Imi twenty years a wealthy
Band lirts 1s t tt murdered in the open streets ut the instigation of
the muihth** and hi* murderer ha- escaped wwt-free; tln-y are
Gompelh*] to wear eiolier-colonmi garments, and may not tide, or
keep open shops, of peases high "r handsome hou.-es in the city*
When they purchase property, a higher price i* exacted f nm
tbem than from Mohammedan* : they are forced to conceal their
means, and to restrict their commercial op-. 1 rations far fear of
exciting hostile attack; while in th e- streets they are constantly
tin hie to insult and personal affront Iti recent years cm ohmocJa-
tlon has been formed for tlieir protection by their eo religionist*
in Bombay.

It Was about fifty year* ago that the Bards of Yezd begun
that trade with India which hu* sloci* reached such conddorublc
ViinU dimensions. and has added to the always gn-xit com-
tnoreinJ reputation of the city. They occupy A position
-u;«rinru here not unlike that of tin- Chinese ^nymttor* and
agents in the Treaty Porta of Japan, the hulk of the foreign trade
pacing through their h ad% and a good deal of the homo

1 la UtS Ck-jHiral Sclilwlli'f finod |J4u F*F»Ip Ptlng in tlirdlj* Brut i^tO ui
33fw?lghtiaiirihi( vilUgi*, Total ■ TWi* far***] \ct PtraceC f m g j/ &. i

' Thil y the o-Uaikm 3p ibnrr'* ■ Y^r* trie mil mojuJnn af tlw IW/

* Thy itzitJk flf pothtu, wbh-h wm j*ji pooulofi of much #aftciing* *a* flimllj
rvr«^d hy tlw in maialjr at l(w tutuA of ihr tlfolMh OmenunaM.

VOL. II. It

PERSIA

-4^

industry being likewise under their direction* Ip both these
respects Ye/.d stands nlone in Perrin, No wars or m mourn of
wars affect a place situated m far inland, no thup*tm or raids of
marauding nmirnds now sweep 1131 to ita walk; n permanent
garrison in dispensed with : the me remit ile instincts of the people
:itv even indicate in their preference for donkeys rather thain
hnirSi-i m rfd lU g widmnl a; juul the well-kept house* nod crowded
b&ranrs aaatain the imprt^ion of peaceful and busy opulence.
Si Ik-weaving was Formerly the chief locul industry, the muttony
being cidftivntefl in great abundance in the neighbourhood; and as
nintiv ns 1,800 factories, employing some flpGOG hands, were in
r.h*- middle of the present century engaged in the business* This
hm. however, declined, for reastjus elsewhere display^; and ita
ptiu’e has been 111 ben, particularly dnee the Augh^-Chinese wars
and the opening of Hong Kong, by the cultivntion of the poppy,
2,000 chests of the opium extracted from which are new saiit to
[cave Yerf animiilty* Among the remaining exports an* cotton,
wool, carpet®, felts, madder roots, henna, almonds, and pistachio*.
The chief imports are English and Anglo-Indian goods from the
son Lb and Hunan wares from the north* Cotton fabrics, prints,
copper, tin, tend, uon, drugs and e pices, India and China tens
are among the Former, and are shipped from Bombay to Bunder
Ahleui; Rcttia send* oil, candles, sugar, fnnu crockery-, and also
competed in pLecL^goodiu A number of lliissiwi Armenians an*
I’flgaged in the import and export trade with Russk, nod in the
promotion of their conn try's internal, which is further advanced
by a native Bush Ian agent, who is a Persian merchant of high
position. British mtetKts have never Wo similarly safeguarded;
although the appointment of a consular agent at Yezd would
result in a certain and lucrative extension to Anglo-Indian com-
inerce. Messrs. Hot a A Son and Ziegler A Co, have, however,
recently established agencies Here* A great deal of merchandise
only passes through Yezd in transit to the h suers of Meshed and
Sebsawar, and even of Kaahan and Teheran.

Iti l >70 the revenue was reported as only 100,000 fomniirf but
in 1888 the govwnment of the district was farmed for 2oi),000

iipMrms»* hiww, mid the customs for 47,000 town#. Prior to
*tfei -the disgrace of the Zil-es-Sullati in 1888 , Ye*fl was one
< ™ ?l * n of the many governments subjected to His all but
sovereign sway. It ry tlien separated from Fare, and was eon-

TIIK FASTKRN AND SOlTTH-HASTKltK PROVINCES 248

nr inn i-i.l an indMpvideat government under tin? [miul-ed^l Iwleh, a
competent rtiler. In 1 880 it was given Wk to the S5il t who
plii<N*d his fKNii in command. Thu dty contains a post-office, with
a weekly mail to IkimW Abbas and Bushirt% mid n t.clegr»pli-
offiee, which is linked by single Persian wires with Kerman and
Isfahan,

From Ye&d l pu^ u» Kerman, the dth-H being connected by
two routes of Ijdi it the same b i !igtli 1 viz. 3£0 tnik-, running the
Fti 4 urv -if nne by Bufk on the northern, ami the other by Kernmn-
■ k,,M!:aci ^hdiati on the Guutbem side- of the mountain range that
stretches with scarcely an interruption between the two places.
Kerman is thn Garaniaiiia of the ancient^ and occupies a site on
the confines of the Great- Desert* and at the confluence of four im¬
portant mutes from the south and east, that has always rendered
it a great trading emporium for the memhants trafficking between
the Persian Golf and the Central Asian marts of Khurasan, Bokhara,
and B tilth, The founder of the city b unknown; but it& rii&e and
ftigniheance have bv'ii attested from re mute times. Yqzdijird, the
Inst Persian king, fled hither and reigned a brief while, when the
Arab-, overrun fakt country, It was imucasrively ruktl by the Beni
Buyidi dynasty, the Seljuk Turks, the kings of Khartum (Khiva),
and a Kara Khitman family who retained the throne till 1 SOU A.D.
Krrtnan was further a Xestoriau flee under the metropolitan of
Fats. 11 to town has been repeatedly saekid and destroyed by in¬
vaders from the east and west, the united savagery of Jenghi/r
Khan, Timur, the Afghans, and Nadir *Stiuh t having been expended
npon its hapless body. At the end of the lu-st century it attracted
a wide renown, as die scene both of the heroism of a noble diameter
and the inhuman brutality of a despot, Here the lion-hearted
Lutf All Khan, the last of the Zend family, held om for Several
months in 17*11 with extreme bravery against the army of the
Kajar t?ftimch p Agfaa Mohammed Khun. Treackcronjly betrayed,
the young prince escaped himself; but the city fell u victim to the
He ml l hh rage of the €om |m?ror, wli^ lor three man tbs snmmdered
it in tin* pnAsinnw of hi* soldiery, mul in said not to have twcii
satisfied until 35*CMJO of eye* bod been handed to him upon a
dish, while every fine building wm razeed to the ground* mul 30,0011
women and children were carried off into slavery. The city wart
rebuilt on a redact'd scale by Futh AH ^hob a little to tins norths

PKJIKIA

west nf the former sit*, 1 and about thirty year.- agu was mined to a
pitch of givat pn^perity under the rule of the Vekil-id-Mnlk t
who, though a hmrtl mil] mmrieiou* governor, recovered for the
place ^mrwliati of its nDL'iait prestige L

The remain* of old EC mo an occupy n ejjace about ! Iirw miles
fn length nut side the wallsof the modem town, uml me commanded
Modern by *t big ™imd fort, attribute to Andrslii^ mid called
Ml > the Kftlfdw-Dukhter, or Maiden * Foi-t* u |hju a steep lime¬

stone ridge tii the east. TJwj modem ejty h about three-quarters
*«f a >qimrt mile in ox tent, mul it sEirronuded by batik minted
mud wnlls,, after the usual Persuui fashion, pierced by six gates*
with n hntfui hmlfocboksd ditch, Kike Vezd. it contain.-* a fort tvti<l
a citadel in the fort, whom the Governor resides* Hem also high
dark mountains at a slight distance Lwerhmig the city, while the
snow-,-treated peaks of loftier ranges to the north-west are a I wave
ill f fie land-caps 'He 1 public buildings, rmt untlly enough, am
lacking in intercstt Gib prmnipal being the Musjid-i-Jania, founded
A-Gu l:i t» # the two-storeyed twtttrrn#tl* of Ibrahim Klmu, and the
Kubn-i-Sid^or Hm-ii Cupohi, a cylindrical doim^m-eml Htmctnre
reused in a,o t U55 f fSOUtmaitig a mutilated iimrble tomb in the
centre, find the remains of ft bine tile wnijuteoting. The popidation
is said to be about 40*OU(M In 1810 Pottinger found no Jews,
Armenians. or Hi min^ ; but then 1 lire now representatives of all
three nationtiIities, the Hindus, wine forty in number* anil half-
Etosunfecd in dress and appeeiniuce* being traders from Shikar pur
and Si ml. They live in ft cntftvMisenti apart. mid e nth uHia^tical ly
welcome any English traveller, whose notice inresrts them with ft
mjporittr social distinction, Then* ia ulso n considerahle Parai
population, inhabiting a H?ptirate quarter, mid posseting a funeral
tower in the neighbouring hills** Stack quotes the prophecy of a
local saint, who pmtiokd a ct-utnry ago Him I~fe ]mu will be
di->tn.y-d by water, Void by sand, nciti Kerman by hara-hoofs;

1 In the jrn-^ni eeniurj It bv b «n vistml and d^zrEbed hy (Sir) El. ft*t|&£rr
(IS I Oh TruvrUin JhZmvkiitam* oip.ju; K. d* KlmikarF ,V™^ r 1 Hit-

ESS (wilh * Burp} ; KirF. (irtlamM UGGft), TVbfnfi *jjf flmi. pp,
i ij-hjiji'l Eunn-^mith /£t#r*m /Wjuj, ip|_ L pp. L^MlH {Sir* (>. >j. John

(t«*XIW b.^ 1 * ]*P fiS-ICS; E. I wrptmdB*

mp illb; R- -Start (l^l), iftr Jfeufi# ,V /VffMJ. tdL i p,

- Ln late a canfnl wiw. mndo U tb* tlwro gtittmtPT, wLJcfa pfriwed

jS^TIs MiTuunoustaftis l,3ll S5 ^n^l si; Hinduh fl 4 ^^ Lh f 4 IJ70

Jwtwji: f. B

Tin: OFFERS A XU SOrTIJ-lvVSlKJLS H;uV!N( l> *45

and adds: 1 Sr unci momrog the people of Kerman shall wako muB
see the Soldi hill*, north of the dfey, all white with Umts, anil then
they will know that the end hut conk 1 ' 1 I understand, but t du
not lulniit the inference; for there are tho-o who will make it
their husinesis to m-c pretty dimly that it iti not from the northern
hills that the boreclioofs will descend*

The bmniars of Kerman, which are lofty and wcIbbuiUj and ilf
caravan semis, whills are numerous ami handsome. 1 are worthy of
s the commercial and manufacturing reputation of the city .

The imports, from Great lJrimin t India, and China are of
the ^aiiie character as those already described in the (Me or ^ esd+
Of load m anti factors Lhe chief are wmwl* or felts* most cunningly
nnd beautifully wrought; carpet* of excellent colour and original
design, costing priori of from I Os, to lOfi* according to quality, per
square yard; and the famous Kerman shawl* which reaetubhi ami
rival those of Kashmir* Of these the costing from Hih to
2 i/L are made of the hair or down that grow s next to the ^kin nt
the guat; the next quality ore woven from tile wool of a am i l l
sheep* the netghbaurhiH>d of Kerman king celchraled fir both
breeds h and producing > K i flier by its eh in ate, Its vegetation* or it«
water, or by all cmfcbiued* a quality and texture that cannot ol^i-
whrre lie reputed, The slmwls are mode from pit terns, not
painted* but learned by heart— a tremendous strain upon the
memory—nod are munufactored La surroundings extremely in-
jurimis both to eyesight and heal I h. The looms ore set up in
filthy ilnrb holes, without light or ventilation, where the artificers,
who are ruei) and boys, work in a half-naked condition. In the
middle ages Kennan a great reptrt&Hnn for the manu¬

facture of aria- 1 .; but thin* Iiki- that of Meshed* is a f lung of the pn^-t.

in 1010 Pottinger gave the revenue of the city as 25*1100
jVimij-r.*, or 2 dJNI0 ^, and estimated that of the province m ■>d*ui
itnriiiin aiorr. In 18? 1, alien the Mekntn Boundaij Ctmtmk-

^Lrn.- sinners were there* thi* provincial revenue wan staled m

«*** 310,000 or 1M,U00L The tables, supplied to

me fbr Id£8—81* return it. including Persian Btohachiataii, oh
200,000 tonum*. The government Is now one of the liighest rank.

* hi 1H71 C<ilOfcr! EBUn^yiti reporlcil ;ti pablld balbf, mm¥m*&*t** lUti
fbtl IQ -'OltoD Eictoria, aiA ti redHy pood cai^et tidorifi. In IWD

Ikti. 4cHndkr returned 42 in«n;aei. 53 putAfcl tnuft", h SO pdaudp,

4 ifU^E! lux! 22 iirdlfr hniua, nUvt 0 rumMillWi k

£46

PEES1A

inasmuch as it includes Persian Ht-lutfiistan, which is ftdmmi n-
tc-red by a deputy of the (toromof-G^POTL The latter is usually
a prince uf the blood royal, mid at I ho time of my visit- was the
Nett^ed-DovrljBibt a coubka of the Shah. His province contain* u>
varied a population as am bo found anywhere within the some
limil-H in Persia; Iranians, Turkic. Kurds, Beluchiti. md Binds
being included in the total.

Yral and Kerman both stand, a> lias been seen, on the
outskirts of a desert, nud north of botlu for league upon league,
ti , ^r, l extends Urn appalling wuste that has here stamped upon
(kw-rt* iVrsin the imprint of an eternal distolatum. From the
haunts of busy lift- and commercv [ turn, therefore, to the
contemplation of a Sdiare as funereal and more unique- than any
that Tnrtary nr Africa olu display. In existing works upon
Persia there will lie found hesitating, and often conflicting*
accounts about both the extent, the ramifications, and the limiU of
the main Persian desert or desert*, arising from the scant and
often uutTUftworthy information upon which those description*
hnve been based, Thu more reliable intelligence that has lately
b*vu procured enable* Uh to formulate h more arcurate conception.
There are, practically sinking, great deserts, covering a

combined length p fitntt north-wt?«t to saiitb-tffist* of over 500 miles,
but se|ranir*„d from cadi other, between I he thirty-second imd
thirty-fourth parallel* of latitude, by a bdt of bi% country,
along which run* one of the main caravan track* from the centre
to the north-east. Of these deserts, the more northerly, extending
from &F to #tV : north latitude, and from 52" to 57- cast longitude,
is that generally known as the fJrent &alt Desert* or hasht-I-Kavir,
The second or southerly, extending from 2W* lo -V2 north latitude*
uud from 57 to lift east longitude, w that described on the maps
0.1 the Dmht-i-Lut. Both are salt, in so far as wmeJbrvr. or saline
sii.itJip, i* found in flu* depressions of uach h which average about
1,000 feet above the m<ii ; but t he fiir greater proportion **f foirir in
the northern doeit ami the almost complete absence of vegetation
have preen red for h the unenviable monopoly of the name,

H\ «>«<? tb«* name Dnuht-i-Kavir has Wh simpk translated
(in'ftt Desert, JtoWr bdn^ presttweej t,i be « locul uroditientjon of
the Arabic k-<Kir t gn^t. 1 Kmd> a clerivntum, hawfvrr, altogether

1 Mnlcetln amt Worirr twill *pufc<? of i! in ftp 0ftri*44ElMr, or Mrntil Sea. bat
t buy must Iia*r totn rul^UlM.-ii.

THE EASTERN AM* SOUTIt-EASTERN PROVINCES 247

IckS 4 » night of 1 Iil- saline clianu-t eristics, which ar® an cftsautui]
connotation of the term el* used in Persia. General Schindler,
Tin Puiu- examining the various words fircni which it may lie da*
L-Knvir lived—(I) the Persian tjar^ a depression or hollow, (2)
the f Winn *ptr kitr, n grave, pool, hallow p or pis dn (whence
ytirkhar, the wiki n&8 nr c^s of the plain j. and (3) the Araik- fof/r,
or Ktf/rvA (plural kufur), a word still in nne to express ti deaert
iu Africa and Am hi n —gives the preferauce to the ln-t + l In its
Persian application it invar id My signifies n suit desert nr saline
swamp, mid im bestowed both upon the Great Salt JJewert of
which I am now speaking, and also upon smaller I uimrt or pcitdie&
of saline waste f which are to l»e found hi other parts of the
country^ and which may W regarded, in Offline cases as repetition*,
of the same phonomeiHUi in detached lucidities, in others os bays
or uiletri of the Dasht-i-Kavir.

The theory has BomcthuO* prevailed that the latter owes Uu
origin solely to the drainage of saline streams fix mi the highland*
depositing os they evaporate a white enmt **r efflora-
1 l* ianpn the ground, and iu wotue cases forming

pools and swamps; and there h tins to be said in favour of the
hypothesis that the streams of Pens in are very frequently and
largely impregnated with suit. On I ho other hnnd t trad it inn is so
unanimous that the site of the Dnaht-i-KavLr and, iu (act, the entire
centre of Persia, were once occupied by a salt sen. and the present
physical couditiomB accord so well with the theory, that we shall
probably not err if we accept it, legend asserts that ibis inland
b*£a once extended from Keuevin to Kerionii and the borders of
Ihduchiston. Tb* ancient city of Ithageu is Mid to haw been
Eipuli its northern shore, Y«d to have been an inland, and
Kerman to have been upon its southern coast, Tim lower of
Sarah t* oven identified as one of the light Loon e: built to guide
the mariner* who navigated its waves. Sir F. Gold™ id tm-utioiia*
as confirmatory evide nce, that upon the other or eastern edge of
the kitvir he found a village named Ytinn, from a fixed tradition
that Y iin—j i,e* Jonah, wus there cast up by the whale—a fiction

1 ttmmiim#**f N.ifJL (new mtU»> vet *, 027,

* Tbe lifcit ktuiFD of tbe** ire the Urir mlb off KJuif, that Up the mat of
IdJte Nirii, AB4l llir Adnr wf n>m- Wmlcm limit* tt*«l tn h* |«Mnil hi& tin- rwl
belwMn TdiiAD uuE Kmdi, hut an* im* wctrpli^l hv thr Ink* wMr.h
thiTc in inad wbiich b slewfl*4 In e*ja. ixrill

243

which could hardly have been localised upon dry (and* Guides
and superstitious villagers, living near the various AwiVs, tell
marvellous tales i*f the circumstances under which they ceased to
Ik- *eas atjd wore dried up; bur these Eire in te renting only to
students of folklore. mid need not 1 k j hero repeated.

In different parts, the A'wmV presents a different aspect,
according to the nature of the soil and the amount of *alt water
Disi'ma nsfu&e* to be dmined. Sometimes it is quite dry

itiiicji find soft, with n thin glided crust on the top, which
crackles beneath the horse's hoof, and with powdery soil
beneath. Sometimes it presents an expanse of hard Liked clav.
Again it will fake the form of mubile hillocks and dangerous
quicksands. When Ihe water is lying upon the surface, particu¬
larly in winter f it will In one place resemble a great lake, in
another it will he a slimy swamp; while after the evaporation of
tin- early summer suns the saline incrustation on the dried tip
patches will glitter in the distance like sheet? ■ if ice. 1

Of travellers who have crossed or skirted the Great Kavir
there are few. Marco Polo has been said to have traversed a |wrtion
Tnn*: 11 m , >>f it on his supposed route from Taibbas to Dmnglmu about
Gr^us 1^72; nil hough it is more probable that he marched

Ki¥iT further to the east, mid crossed the north urn portion of

the Dttftht-i-LuL* l)r # Uidise, a Russian. crossed a portion of Et
on a journey from Ycatfl to Dninghmi in 1849, and was said by
frir t>. Hr, John to have been the ^te European who had done *o. J
Sir F, Goldsmid ami the Sehtnn Boundary CJommi?sioii were near
to its eastern fringe in 1872. Sir C. MacGregor, on his march
from Yoad to Tubboa, vU Khur. in L875, wars upon its southern
border. Finally, in 1887 mud 1888, two young Indian officers.
Lieutenant It. II Galindo and Lieutenant II. B r Vaughan, travel-
ling, the former from Khur to Damghmn, the latter from Atiarek
to Seramin, ulightol :it intervening points upon the true Dn&ht-i-

1 Vid* the <ti-cnplion given by Cokmni Cl E. fcftwuft* */ tk r

Ji-QJL (new series}, vul, Hi. (l£SJ) h p. fllg.

2 YnleV Mutm P&h\ VOL L p. W\. 7ha VwQgm of the teit, wftieh
origiunity mt.nikun for D*m*tuun j« co&writy espial hisJ hj Vuk a* Tms-«e £i_* s
ud) Kjuu,

1 ■ Settee Mir that* planter niftlkinales et sar kr grand 4Htti Kale <k- ]n Vht#*/
T .nr V. A. Butin: Ksttait dn Bxtkti* & d'fflttvfrf .Vrtturrlk

1SS0, No, t. Vide rdsa a pntiee by Dr. C- Ureutaok in h\* Du,

#crlpt1oai et N IVr*i£i,' pift.thlHit ill thp 7*1 JM. rAe ^.WrnWjW Sue. of St .

Id 1S51

the eastern and south-eabterx fkovixi'ks

-43

Knvir. The esperieijces rf each wero somewhat diffenmt. Lieu-
tenant Galindo *pe*tks nf

Perfectly level ground* at first principally black mud, with isolated
patches of white -alt. and slimy pools of green wiiter, Gradually the salt
increases till at becomes w hard, almost unbroken, whit* crust, still with
lUo green pttols- standing on it, and locking something like the little
|HN)|a loft by the sett in she hollows of ii rocky coast at low water. It L
no exaggeration to suv thut the whole of this track <about twenty-six
ai lJ] i■ >J is mIqiI oQt by catcnw of camels, averaging cull- for evcit
yards, in various stages o£ pickle,

I'll&ewbere there wus little or m> saline efflorescence* but

It appeal'll aa if very liquid bkek mud had been suddenly Arretted
and hardened, while in a state of violent ebullition orotfervfcsceuce. The
ground is thickly pitted and honeycombed with round hole*, from eight
to twelve iiidii'i in diameter, arid generally about the miuio depth*
though some go down two op throe fret. Between sliest 1 are rounded
nodules or riil^ ni inutl, some of which are solid, but some are merely
bubbles or Mistt-ra of earth, with u thin cniBt covering a treacherous
bole. Ou the I'ntli n horse Inis to move with slow i iroum*j*i rimi,
stepping from knob to knob, or be would, soon lie IclewA * '‘d the beaten
track, of course c it is simply impassable.

Lieutemnt Vaughan, more to the west, wnite as follows *—

As wi? quitted she dcfi1t* T a sudden turn in the road presented t«
our ustonisfied gftjfio what at tarsi i-ight looked like a vast ii ■ uteri sro,
stretching away to the right as far a* the eye could reach in <m« vast
glistening ex jui i t A more careful examination prtrvod it to Ijc nothing
more than salt formed in to aim innuens* sheet: of darling briUkncy,
while here mbit there upon its surface, pool* of water, showing up in the
most Lquijlso blue, were vitiHjfa* Away to the north of it stood a distant
runi^e of low rod hills. A peculiar hiute, perhaps caused by eYxqmrstiou,
liivn^j over the wlmlo >ci!ue, which, though ^ofTriilti^ the frnturo of
the distant hills, does not obliterate their details Xhu the l^reat
Salt Swamp, which, lying at a low level in the centre of Urn great
desert, receives into it- l>cij tHo drainage from an immense tract of
territory. All the rivers flowing into it are more nr less salt, aud curry
down to |i nmtaaby a great volume of water. The fierce heat of the
desert during the .niiumcr months causes a rapid evajjoratimL, the result
being t hat the salt constantly increases iu proportion to the water, until
at last the ground becomes caked wills it* 1

1 r/fif HJr S, (now wrlc-iy l&Rik vohtUL HI 1 - lH-3. UecUemmE

Vaaglian think* iJiui lh<? Da*hM‘Klfif comas h ^ two great (frpn^jiocr, OBIS At tbe
Mxnb biuc t-f ihc Knh-i4i»^nl, the ether ai llic point foruit'd by the junction uf

PBKSIA

In ilw lifuss year ( 180 ) j T yet another section of the l i real Kavir,
iLtnl itself a new phenomenon, lifts been for the first time brought
to light by the gome officer, travelling in company with Mr* C. E.
Eiddulph. This is no leap than a great espouse of solid rock m\t,
the deposit for counties centuries of numerous salt btremns, called
by the natives Darin-i-Xemekj or Sea of .Salt, it htm apparently
been ink versed for long yearn by native Caravans, crossing from the
Medicd-Teheran road to Kushim, from which its son them border is
distant leas than -MJ itides to the nLH-fch-eafft; but during all this
period no hint of its existence has reached European ears. The
two English travellers suddenly came upon it f having climbed a
crest of the Siah Kuh, a prominent ridge I hat rises from the heart
of the desert. This is what they saw:—

At rjui’ met lay what looked! like a frozen sea, but was in rentity n
d*p«it of salt, which entirely filled the helbw in the plains towards
the south, anil atmtehed away a-s far as the eye could reach cm either
side, glittering in the stm like a sheet of gW<-

Deaeonding to the brink they marched across it till they came
to the actual sheet of salt.

This at the edge «jh j«jft and sloppy like hnlf-melted ice; but, a*
we proceeded, h gnmwl in consistency till at a distant.-^ of $ or I miles
it rest tabled nothing more than very solid ice, strong enough to \m*.r
any weight.

The traveller* tried to ascertain its depth ; but. it was so hard
that with iron tent-peg* they could only detach a few chips. The
natives sold it was several feet thick. Crossing this astonishing
expanse by moonlight, in order to escape the blinding glare of the
sun, they estimated its breadth as 25 miles, and its length an even
greater. This sea of solid rock-salt Is probably without a rival in
the world . 1

Sncli. then, in the sEipriietul aspect of the Jhishr-L^Kavm
Traversed only with difficulty by routes lying higher than the
general level, it may be ftaid within the vast urea of its limit*
absolutely to cur off northern from southern Persia, nml to inter-
poae n limrier between the two us grim ami iuBEirtnourttable as T at
the opposite extreme of nature, do the mighty mmparte of the

tlif Kal Slum and Kjl\ Lndl rivers T bath ffltilaiiiing va>t sheets i.t-f water in tho
rainy vnwe.

1 Vide Aw. of the It.tl.SL, Ni>v. 16iH,«vnd Atiatic Quarterly Review, Out.

I Sa 1 r

THE EASTERN AND SOt 1 TIDE,\STUBN PROVINCES

Himnhvit between British India and 'Tibet. Should it ever be the
Hite of Persia to submit to territorial and political partition, nature
hn^ in this part at any rule, ,*avod the contracting or eo nllict.lng
parties the mcpeuBd and trouble L*f a Boundary Coiumisswa,

From the Daskub-Kavir,, or Great Salt Desert. I tarn to the
I taskt-i-Lut., or Great 8mA Desert, separating Kbomaun in the
south-east from Kerman, and occupying a sorrowful
parallelogrum between the towns of Neb and Tabbafi on
^ the north, and Kenxum and Yesd on the south. Not
that this smid desert is without salt. On the contrary salt is perhaps
its chief ingredient; but it ia rarely fcmr, i.e. it Is rarely overlaid
either with a saline incraatatiou or with a briny swamp ; and it
gives birth to a few miserable desert ahniba, which in a conoeeaion
to respectability that no kaw? has ever vouchanfbcL The Lut, + which
mm® too ingenhius critics have fancifully endeavoured to connect
with the Lot of Holy Wrifc T but which is apparently u local
Kvnonvm Ibr a wilderness, 1 is situated at a much lower level than
tliM Ihislit-ir- Krivir; Ibr its normal elevation is h^s than 2,0tlU IV-et,
n nd in planes it sink* to only 500 feet above the level Upon
the maps it occupies a staring and eloquent blank. Few travellers
have crossed it, fewer still having done so would voluntarily re¬
peat the experiment* Maroo Polo was here, bur where was not
the invincible Venetian ? In the succeeding century Friar Odo-
riens thus described ils fhitrais, calling it the Sen of Sand i—

Now iImt sea Ik jl wondrous thing imil ri^hfc perilous And there
ware none of jib who desired to ciitec on tliut sea, tor it Lb all of dry
ami [, without any t ills 1 st u re. and it shifteth^ os the -sfea doth when in
storm, i low lather, now tliithcr ; and as it Bhifteth it maketii waves in
like 11Limner as the sea doth ; so that coumloss people travelling thereon
have been overwhelm^! and drowned* and buried in those sunds. For
when blown nhout and buffets I by the winds, they are mised into bills,
now in thU place, now Ln that, according as the wind chance th to blow.*

Khnnikott crossed the Daalit-i-Lut r^OJii Neh to Keriu.in ill
1850. Goldsmid's party were oo its iraiders in IB7L Colonel

1 (jfnDnl ScbladlEir, in a note in the India.* Antiquary, Pec* 1JS87* «iw that
ih-B word lift means nnkd f hair ; und dtukt-irtuty tbcHfort, the nakyl plain, Le.
desert. The wofd fat (origfF natty ptew* bit) is frequently OOrntrfj>e*l with firf in
common fiJimiwciSn^T. Hence a m*n fat mt tut, m a man who ha# neMiEn^ in tbc-
warkl » beggar, Fmm fai is hTctKvmI the Parslwi *n^'. eripinully a »domlie T now
a ] tf.f'pM E;%r synonym For n bulfoon Gf fygtiu,

1 From t. r *rtb.ft# i ! .■ i ■'/ f W\jij thither {Flaklnvt Society), No* i^I-T.

PERSIA

Stewart made an expedition into it id 1 882. 1 Lien tenant Galindo
twice crossed it, once id six days, and once in five daye, id 1837
nml 1888, traversing a belt of 120 miles entirely without water.
His description fe almost identical with that of the worthy
Minorite friar 5n0 year* earlier* lie could not fail to notice the
extraordinary resemblance presented by the Mown xadd to the
waves of a chopping seo. These gaud billows alternate with hare
expanses of Mack gravel, and with a phenomenon not previously
described. Thin is n region of curious -quaro-cut clay bldJk, i*e-
lieved by the natives to lie tbe ruins of an ancient city, and called
by them the Shehr-i-Lnt. but consisting in reality of 4 natural
formations of bard clay, cut and carved by the lienee north-west
wind into strange shapes, suggestive of walk add towers/ Lieu-
tenant Galindo found everywhere beneath the Band a substratum
of hard rock-salt some eight or nine inches below the surface, thus
proving the saline character of the desert, and here and there
patches of genuine fei-rfr* the ground being mapped out in
irregular polygons with dividing walla of solid aalL or studded
with hard round white bubbles of the sniiiB tuuferiuJ, like a lot of
hutfd juried ostrich eggs, or covered with u sort of moss of delicate-
looking suit, ^picuke, standing up like needles an inch long, but
strong as stael spikes. The w orst part of this desert is its south¬
east corner between Neh and Bam* which i* one of the moat awful
regions cm the fees of the earth* 1 Here the prevailing north-west
winds have swept the sand together, and bunked it up in huge
mounds and hills, ever shifting and eddying. A fierce sun bear-
down upoii the surface which is au§ Herv hot an incandescent metal;
and aUnostalways the btul^mmorm mourn is blowing, "so desiccated
by its puaaage over hundreds of miles of burning desert, that if it.
overtakes man or animal its parched brentb in n moment .sucks*
every uti ms] of moisture from bi^ frame, and leave? him it wither^
mid blackened mummy/

This horrible desert extends as fur south us Bun-Xmmashir,
for loKg the frontier district of Kerman, Jtn capital is Bain, 140
t TTliles sudth-aRgfc or Kerman, HOW a big struggling

village, situated on both bunks of the Bam river, amid
groves of date palms, and posseting only n menu bazaar. Bam,

1 PrmxetiiMfM rf t/u IU2.S. i“nt-w vol* v\ih pp. 141-3, lflSsk

1 VilS * th# excelled description uf Rixha, r*irfnai BmrmvAw.

toL is. (&mub-w«ti Ajkia}, p. G4,

THE EASTERN AND SOPTH-E ASTERN PROVINCES 3S3

however, hm filled \l6 place in hikin'; and its semi-ruined fort
on on elevation outs tile the modern town was the rirfc or citadel
of the former Ifaim T which even as bite as the beginning of this
century wa* the strongest tort died place in Persia* It owed its
fame and strength originally to the Afghans who took it i n 3 711*, and
were not finally expelled till LSftl. In I7^>> it was the scene of
the culminating tragedy m the brief but brilliant career of Lutf
All Khan, who after escaping from Kerman Red here, only to he
Eigain betrayed to his nittaki^ enemy by a chief in whose fidelity
he had trusted- His how wus hamstrung, ju*t as ho hod sprung
upon its back to fly; he himself Fell to the ground, and wn= taken
prisoner. The brutal eunuch put out his eyes with his own hands*
and despatched him to a cruel death at Teheran. On the spot, in
honour of the brave achievement* he erected a pyramid of the skull*
of 600 of his rivafs adherents, which whs eeen ns lab* a* 1810 by
Sir IL Pot tinge?. The importance of Bam was considerable when
it was a border town, exposed to the marauding fury- of Afghan
and Beiocfa \ an ample tribute to whose bygone devastations
is afforded hy the numerous other mined fdri> in tin- mngtibour-
Imod. Their fame and use have now perishm!; and with these
words wo may lad lx>th to Bam and them good-bye.

In our southward advance we next come to the extensive and
in parts still undefined province of Penrisn Reiuchmtun, which iti
its present, shape h the creation of the last thirty year*,
and to a large extent owes its existence to the inter™*-
tion and recognition of the British Government. We find
nGradvee standing accm’diugly on the threshold of politics, eh well
ns engaged m tho domain of topography. In no work that has
yet been published is any succinct or satisfactory account supplied
iif Persian Beluclnstan ns a whole; nor have the niab*rinl> tieen
at the disposal of previous writers which could fit theta for the
tusk. Here, therefore t l feel that I am breaking new ground, llie
explorations and events of recent years enabling me to fill thngapa
that wen* left by she admirable narratives of the ujomtara of the
Boundary Commission in 1870. They were occupied in giving
to Persian BeldcUiatan on official existence and a geographical
meaning. We cull scrutinise and describe the established fact, 1

1 I hive nruplld il \* fotbwtag of Fenian IklLicbi-?ttui p am!t%

ffUflh wmrfci m roSme Wl\j to iadupr-odoot i!*linhL*tnn or EeLit :— Captain W. 1%
Grant (%mh Afidiir tfvfctff* voL t. IS3S; (Sir) IL Fotlb^r

PEILSIA

Belucliistnn comprises the Ged rosin, and parts of tlie Dreu-
ginmi, of the ancients: and it is a significant illnytr:ii i,m of the
IltiTlllJ ►>[ ©beamrity Hint has rarely lifer! from these regions, and of
the precarious political existence which till lately they
enjoyed, that tin* words of Gibbon, written of a period 1700 years
ago. wen* equally applicable to their condition np till the middle
of the century still unexpired : —

\\> ran scarcely attribute to the Persian monarchy the sen. coast of
Gedrosia or Macrae, which extends along the Indian Ocean from Cape
Jnsh to Cape GwadeL In the time of Alexander, and probably many
ages afterwards, ii *.i» thinly inhabited liy a savage people of ielithyo-
phftgi, «ho knew no arts, who acknowledged no master, auri who wen*
divided by inhospitable rkwrt* from the rent .,f the world. 1

It is on extraordinary, but nevertheless a true fact, that from
the time of Alexander's march through Gedmsia, nod the naviga¬
tion of his admiral Xearchus along its shores, we have no record
of the visit of a European to the Interior of Baluchistan until 1800,
In that year Sir *1. Malcolm, who had just, been appointed on his
third mission ip Persia, anxious to discover what overland rentes
there might exist Iroin Persia to India, for the jHjssible advance of
French or Russian armies, deputed Captain Grant (who was after-
wartls murdered in lyrist on) to report npon Western Beluthistan.
In the following year, I \jttijiger and Christie volunteered for a
Hindi ur mission in Eastern Beldchistaa, and started forth disguised
os the European servants or a Hindu horse-dealer of Bombay.
Pol linger, having parted from Christie at Nualiki, subsequently
continued his journey through what is now Persian Baluchistan in

(1810), TftttrU in RtfMciiitam: ilaji Alxlnn M (ISSH-S*), Jwrnul aft\t Atiatif
veil. rtli. 1H-M; ColoiMsl E, C. Bfe* {IftGTV JWvdiw // Aj .
H.UJi, vaL svi. |,p. i:«>-Sl3j SbF. (lMI-tS71), I'wrn&L tkr

l,Ttri '‘ V M ' ir " n , W Tl> " <*™hay Ooemaint), 18 *. -

Ijuh fH /V»«N '■■,> 1 . I., JnrrnvIuiJTh.h -. Jpxrmt vf ri,- /.* f} S v u | m jn r, IS]

'"l- I'* V<jl - * ILii - l> «: Cirt 0. ft. John K^ rr , t PtruJ'^ {

|i]<, 1S-tl7 ; Major It limit (I87<M% Preceding* tf the tl.O.S,, rot it] p *im’
JpHrvit, voL Sill, |J. J0H1 Ortotiel Sunn-Smith {U70.lv Etuttm P ’■ {

pp. l«W» I F. A Flayo, 0l«r,W lW ^.Ln * A, W. ^

Cnmtriy B*U*ki*t*m t 1N7J; Major MocWan^raal^t*, JkpU

!?'**£* * ,87 "' P' '»» M«bd K ka,J
vat a^p. 1 1. ; A, OHMav tim), ■ «« Afam. *** AtaWto,, ^

•fU^-Mag-».l LknuiaatttafhHfo ibrfom quoted) }uw , M1 b*™ pub!

* Iter tin* cW hhU the Ifymm vo|. L rajy.

THE EASTERN AM) SOUTH■ EASTEItN PROVINCES 2$i 5

the disguise of a Mussulman pilgrim. To him we o^t? the first
nelLible information about the country, [n 183! r Haji Abdun Xabi,
an intelligent Afghan, was sent on a similar tour by Major bench,
the British Resident at Kelat. Next, in the year 18(5 L Sir Y.
Goldsnml Appears upon the scene, charged with the invest lotions
preliminary to the construction of a telegraphic wire along the
Mekrau coast- from ivtirraohi to Gwudnr t extended later on to
-Task; and for ten years he remains our authority, the surveys
made and knowledge acquired by him during that period supplying
ihe basis for the Boundary negotiation^ 2 tn.cE ultimate definition m
1870-1 t to which I now tuni.

In the first half of the eighteenth century, Beluchistam i r e r the
Country l>t>tweeu the Helm Lind and the Arabian Sea, and between
Hutovyut Kerman and Sind r had, in common with its neigh-
^mtiXV fallen a prey to Hie rv*i*l:Je** prestige of Nadir

Jl . Shah, He constituted it n separate government or de¬

pendency:, giving it the nnme which it ban ever since Ixjmt. from
the most numerically important of its tribes* and appointing Nosir
Khan BriihuL Beglerbeg of all Betuchistan in 1739, As long ns
Nadir lived, therefore, Hie newly created province was undoubtedly
suhjeci to Persia, ('[Kin 3 jes death, however, and in the general
break-up that ensued, the astute satrap of Beluehistan at first jwiid
allegiance to tle j Afghan sovereignty of Ahmed Shall DumiiL as
the moHt powerful neighbouring dominion; and later* upon it*
collapse* asserted liis own independence. After his death in 1795
all pretence either of internal unity or external suzerainty vanished:
the Bduchi chieftains* according to their strength, started business
each on hi* own account m t and the dotmtry was a prey to turbulent
factions mid tribal feuds f Persia being at tin it time too weak
even to dream of interference. Swell was the condition of affairs
when Grant and Pottinger visited Baluchistan* There was no sign
of Persian authority at the sea-ports; and the chiefs ofBatupur,
Geh, Balm, and Serb&z were all independent. It apjiear* to have
Wu In the re Iga of Mohammed Shah fIBdl 1 BIB)* who* Though
utterly deficient [n mil it ary instincts or capacity, had the most
exi ravugunt ambitions for conquest* and thought himself qualitied
to jKwe us a second Nadir Shull* ihat the Persian pretensions to
authority in Beluchbtan were first seriously revived. The chief of
Biimpnr having made an incurrian into the province of Kerman, a
Persian army wag sent to inliict condign punishment and to reduce

PERSIA

tlw invader. This object was effected} but a wciiid rebellion in
18411 wua followed by u renewed Persian expedition, mid by the
capture of the capital. Bmupar. which has over si nr.' remained in
Persian hands. Simultaneously the conquerors lK-gsm to encroach
upon G*h and Kaarknnd. Later on, n very capable man, Ibrahim
Oan, who had risen from a Imnittle position entirely by life own
talents, was appointed Persian Governor of Bam-Narmadiir and
Bam par, and steadily emit inning a policy of ag g r essi on, fe*gsin to
weld the recovered territories into :t compact domic ion. Scrhaz
wna occupied, being wrested from Asad Khan t he powerful chief of
KJiftmn, Bolidi reduced, and Kc-j threatened.

Thw conquests, however, testified to no more than the
superior might of the victors, while they left ft number of the
bordering Beluchi states in a position of semi-depend-
Oimu.i^ ence, which luid no sanction save that dictated liy fear.
-M.imn gj r p Goldsmid in his first negotiations for the telegraph
wab naturally much pooled nod hampered by those unsettled
conditions; and when ill l SG I t!io question urosrt of extending the
wire* from Gwadur (op to which ]mint they had Iteoii admittedly
in the territories of Independent Beluchistan or of Mnacat) to
Josh, the evils resulting' from the absence of any territorial
definition became mo« acute, and the situations provocative of
trouble more frequent. Moreover, in the interests of Kelnt, a
protected state of British India, nt whose expense each successive
Persian usurpation had !«en accomplished, u settlement was most
desirable. Constant diplomatic friction miaul'd, until in 18611 a
formal investigation was suggested by Urd Mayo, and In 1870
the appointment of a joint commission by Great Britain, Persia,
and Kr-liit won agreed to al the instigation of the Shah. It Waa
originally intended that this inquiry should follow that into the
Seiitoj* boLmdai’y, wihicli bull bfteii sifMiltametiualy proposed mid
Accepted 5 but thu de-layi in starting the hitter suggested to Sir
g. Goldsmith who had lieen named the British Comtnieaiciiier, the
udvinability of Wring tune by proceeding vritli the inquiry in
Mekrmu Further said delays were eacouator^l upon

arrival in Teliemn ; nnd wheiij in dmmary 1871* Golden id ntid Ilsh
colleague finally reached Biunpur, he found hituse-if compelled to
without instruct mn£ raid upon his rm n discretion* Mutters
were further complicated by the miscarriage of plaits, mid by the
impracticable obstinacy of Mir/ji Mjiusuih Khnn T the Pension

TILE RASTERS ASD aOtrCB-KAjSTBBN PROVINCES 257

Commissioner, and of LljrcJnm Khan of Bmnpnr. Ultimately,
finding any progress Em possible* Gene nil Goldsnml retired bo
the sen coast* and acting upon the mfunmition which lie had
collected in 1861-64 s and which had formed the basis of a report
in which lie recommended a frontier uEmotit identical with that
which whs afterwards adopted, as well ns upon the further
knowledge collected by Major Lovett f who was seat, oat along
parts of the proposed line, with instructions to make n map, ho
them returned to Teheran* and submitted an arbitral decision to
the Slink There was some squabbling about this, the king
standing oat for the Inclusion of the small border district of
Kohak, in Persian territory, whereas Goldatnid persisted in
vindicating ite independence * but the line suggested by the latter
was presently agreed to (September 1871), the question of Kobak
being left over for future settlement—a Pereium way of intimating
that in the Shah's opinion jiosst^siou was nnt nine-tenths only,
but the whole of the law. The acceptance of General Gold&mid + B
award was undoubtedly a great, compliment to that officers
integrity and discretion ► Encouraged thereby, he set out upon
the scarcely more thankful task of demarcating the Seistan
frontier, as described in & previous chapter. Major St. John was,
however, comtukaioned in I >72 to certify the frontier sketched by
Lovett, which, though approximately determined, had not been
actually followed or demarcated by the previous party. When
this had been accomplished, the frontier, with the addition of the
kohak district, which Persia has declined to abandon. Was settled
as far north as Jalk + and has ever since been coloured as such
upon in ups. It runs from G wetter Ray, a little to the east of that
port* which was assigned to Persia, between the watershed of the
Dusht and Dashtinri (or Knju) rivers, then bends to the cast, and
finally follows the Mo&bkid or Mushkel river, flowing northwards
into a desert Aamui-j or swamp.

Persia at once took advantage of her newly recognised status
to round off her possessions in these partis. Pishin hud been
annexed in 1870* and was continued to her by the
n fhWhl< award. As soon as St. John’s back was turned, the
Governor of Bum pur settled the Kolia k question by marching in
and taking forcible prj?.'< i ^ira. lafimduk, Hurt, and Darida, in
the same district, were seized ill 1872. In the same year the
Aruba of Muscat, who had held the port of Chahbar for nearly

VOL. It S

PElfHA

£68

eighty years, ivere turned out by the Vekil-el-Mnlb. Baabakerd
reraftlned virtually independent under .Seif Allah Khan till 1B74,
but then also saccombecU M->re furtive aggressions have since
ln-en pursued in the north, particularly on the Mash kid river,.
But encroachment in these regions in more pardonable* if not
more legitimate, since, us I have pointed out in my chapter on
Sri stun, no frontier bus either been drawn or exists for the 200
miles of territory het ween the Kuh Mitlek-i-£*uih t where GoldsmicFs
St'LBtan boundary terminated, and the confines of Talk. Goldsmid
was prepared to fill the hiatus i but nothing has ever lieen done *
and sooner than trace on my map a purely hypothelical line which
menus nothing, 1 have preferred to leave the border in this region
what it is, a blank.

Having thus narrated the history of The formation of a Persian
province of Eelucliistaii, I pass to n short account of its futures
and people* The tinea of the province bus i>een estimated
Sr tT7 nt 80,000 square miles, as contrasted with the 80*000 of

peo^tr Kehit, In this extent of country may lie encountered

almost army variety both of scenery ftud climate, The Mekrau
Desert, composed of thin particles of wind-drivt-n -and, h rcun-
paruble, on a small Nfttle, with those larger expanses which have
been previously dcsaribetL On the other bond, hero are consider¬
able rivers* great mountains, and id parts abundant, cultivation.
HocVs + rivers and trees combine in places to supply an entrancing
landscape, hut ft re succeeded by arid bluffs and naked ravines.
On the const the heat is sometimes terrific; and at Jrdk in
wmmner-time the exhausted gazelles are said to lie down on the
pfftins T and suffer themselves to be captured by the hunter. In
the mountain plateaux n cooler and most agreeable temperature is
encountered ; while eternal snow whitens the cop* of the highest
peaks. The prevailing tribe is that of the Tie Inch is. who give
to the country its name. They claim to be Arabs by descent, of
the Koreish tribe, and allege an ancestral migration at the end of
the seventh century from the neighbourhood erf Aleppo, whence
their tradition repressnts them ns having been expelled by Hie
Khali f Ycrid for taking the part of the martyred Husein. No
record, however, exists of their journey, or of the people whom
they found on their arrival; and from the evidence, both of their
physiognomy and of their Inngriage, which is an Aryan or Aryaniaed
tongue* akin to Pehlevi or old Persian, the hypothesifl must be rejected

THE HASTE JIN AND SOBTH-E A STE RN PROVINCES <m

lit favour of a non-Arab genealogy. 1 I kd finger, on the other
hmi 1, attributed to them a Turkoman, Le< Srijuk-Turkidi decent.
Though miineri^lly the most important tribe in Baluchis! an,
they yield n moral and politico! ascendency ui smaller, but more
warlike, tribes of Kurds and Nnshlrwania (themselves claiming
descent from Xushirwia, the famous S&ss&nwi king^ hut in reality
deriving tin dr name from a district so called, near Isfahan, whence
i hey originally emigrated) j while in parte, e,g* in Dashllari, lire
a people, more obviously of Hindu lineage, whose ancestors, though
they rut? unaware of it, (same from Sind T and whose language
contains many Hindu word*. There is also throughout the country
a considerable admixture of the African element, due to the large
importation of slaves from Muscat and Zanzibar* Rome of the
faces present, a thoroughly negro type. The ordinary Beluclii, of
whom l have seen many, is not nearly so formidable a si*eciiuen of
humanity os the Afghan, though like him he wears his long
Llack hair in curls, frequently moistened with runcid butter. In
parts of the country they are in a very backward mid degraded
condition, hut little removed from primitive savagery-. The
majority ore great thieves and liars, and are apt to round off
every period with the swaggering nssartaOn, " I an* a ISehsdi, 1
Politically they have but two filings: an intense pu .-slots for
tribal independence, with all its murderous accompaniments of
blood foods arid border raids, and an outspoken didike of the
Persian,^ whom they call Gujars (pronounced not unlike the
English wordrthe Eelttcli version of the name of the reigning
dynasty* This hatred, to which every traveller without exception
has testified, is t&»iupgmied by a corrwptindmg respect for the
British name and rule. The prestige of British power in India
lias spread far and wide through Lie! uc hist an, and there is scarcely
a native chieftain who has not appealed, or who is not willing, to

1 Dr, Ilellt* (into thr JCthwHjmtjifty */ j{fphn»itian* I?EU) iduntilRs
the Bo Intli is with the Bnl^clu tf ilit Ctiakti Ihijpiit tritie who originally occu-
pin’s the Ni^hkk district Thr tribe tmritrtiily knuwri ft* Ktirttph, K^rldi, tlorich,
nnO CJisra/Lsh,, which L* ttlU widely eitended »n the Indus border, is fch& RojhI
Jhljput Kflnahf Kemdi, or Knrerh. When tkeH tribes were amrertecl to b'mn.
tiiey ciuin^tHl their name lo Korelah+ end pretended an Arab descent In order to
CCD WO 1 the feel. Lkdletf s I ht?refwrv\ as.iij^TLK 10 the Jldiicbu a Rajput or Indian
perUflyc^, and explain* Ihrir dialect a* a Ter«uinS&ed tnrSLan Ionium. Tbft Bind*,
vaho 4 i 4 v- now spoken of A* a brands of the Ekdnch stniek, are to mlHj fchfc trU* 1
of which the lieinchle tire a brand}, the imm bedng ilciived from the Bin or
Rnn ctf Knob, the San*kril dmflprt, cf 1 wSwte/

PERSIA

2fii>

betaken under the protection of the British™;. Their religion i* a*
uncouth and primitive as are their iiirinner>, l Lev arc* nominally
of the Sunni persuasion (whence an added contempt
for the Persian Shiahs) ; but practically they know nothing of religion
hut the rival tinines and a few Arab (brniuhe, and have neither
scriptures, ritual, nor mosques- A flavour of indigenous stipe rat l-
tion is added by the worship of pir* or saints, whose shrines,
bearing the same title, are looked upon as charms, particularly if
u atone be added by the worshipper to the piled-up heap. In the
Serljn» district is u sect, known as the Kikria, who have a t>elief of
their own, and a holy book (which is little more or less than a
iiiuditi.il Koran) alleged to have boon miraculously eouunnnicated
to them, much ns the Mormon bibl. was to doe Smith. They
omit all mention of Mohammed from their prayers, but expect the
ultimate reappearance of the Mididi, trlw will rise out of the earth
at the hill of Kuli-i-Murnd (Mountain of I>esire), at Tnrhnt Koj,
in Betochistan proper, where are the headquarters of the sect, and
where they perform their rites, sometimes alleged, though without
apparent foundation, to be strange and incestuous. A Persian
authority has calculated the population of Pereiftn Beluchistan as
250,000; which is Ijelievi-d to be a fairly accurate estimate.

The Brlucli village in a duster i>f sqiudid Luts round a central
keep or fort where tlie Klian reside. In the south, these huts lire
iiuule of wattled palm leav--s; in the north, where it is
y^ - ctdder. of mud and sun-dried bricks. The chii ftain's fort,
«lti*»tta w |^ c ^ ; g typical of a primitive and semi feudal “late of
society, is a much more picturesque and ambitious street Hre
than its Petsiaii counterpart. In Persia, a fort is seldom more
than a rectangular walled enclosure with flanking towers, in
Pehn-] list mi it has more the appearance, except for its material, of
a medimval European lrecp, having lower walled courts anil a lofty
central tower, with a watch turret above all Port and village
are commonly placed in a valley or grove of date palms, whence
rhe people derive their livelihood, at. I bo same time that they
diligently cultivate with wheat and barley the intervening spaces
between the stems- Tin-date palm which grows here, and of which
those of Bam;mr in Persia, and of Panjgur m Kelati Beluchistan,
enjoy the widest reputation, is, us is well known, impregnated by
the pollen nf the male tree, which is inserted tit the flower of the
female- Tire rare of one mule I rev are sufficient to fecundate

the eastern and south-eastern PROVINCE m

about thirty females. There is alts** ft variety of palmist to or
tlwmtf pulm, more strictly one of The aloe family, bio vm as juifA,
which grown in rank abnu dance along the river beds. It^ Leaves
are made u^e of for even’ variety of purpose by the Brfwhis, par¬
ticularly when wjaksd and beaten out into separate til-ms for nipes
and cordage, ami sire also twisted up into sondakt With which the
peasant £ are shod- A dense growth of udkcEft, mimosa, and
tamarisk jungle grows wherever there i? wQter } h variety oi the
latter tree having a straight stem like a poplar.

The country may be roughly divided Into three section* or
belts, distingushed by their ditfarenr elevation and features. Of
th&m the coast strip hits always been known as Itekran. 1
Meta " The name is employed by the natives themselves of
dijferent part* of the country; but iU strict application appears
to he to the zone, snme si sty to seventy miles in average width,
vvhirli slopes upwards from the coast to the scarp of the lsudn
Beludi plateau, and varies m height tram one Di ii^e hundred
feet. This strip consists of a aeries of long parallel solid-chainft r
separating shallow valleys, for the most part hare and h.u*ren +
until we CMQ0 to the depression fit the base of the bonier
-carp, which is well-watered, and dotted with numerous villages
LLnd date groves. On the whole this belt hft* relatively not much
to complain of in respect of water; Colonel Ross in lbs journey
dong the roast from desk to (iwudur, a distant o( r 300 mites,

having encountered tight considerable rivers- l he water supply,

however, is Unregulated and unsteady; and during much ot the
year the river beds are empty, or contain only disconnected pools.
Mekmn might easily be made far more fertile than it i* at present.
There is splendid. pasturage for c&mela, and sheep and gouts are
numerous; while date grove* mud grain crops spring into life at
the Terr sight oF water. In Atckrim a different dialect is spoken

1 Mama Pot* (bo ik ill rap* *sjc.) rallrt-l ii K**n*ct»nua, 1* KetfSnkmn, Tin*
siihM toaUft nntne hmt bera applet to Jl bj Ibn BututaK HW1 All, SbEiif-i!d* Dim
iin-l P. ilf]Ui Valle. Tfc* im™ AU-ktaa IlJl* tweH ctmniacml*. but liminwjualv.

fmffl Main KiuQIM, i ,-c. tfao ■ir vfklch lln 1

tltltttilreii io tha jphnblUuitJ of the Bdiu-ht ooa^Mnge bj Arrijm . Bni tin!
word b bi Dmii-lbA nanuMUtS appears bu! Murrain thu ftfhat SamkitAQt Vainto
Mi him 3naH>t■ nF the tribe# coimijmous to Indli on Urn wept. It b al*n the
MmcB^ra rjf Stephan of Byiantinm, miH ihe Mnknmn of Tahftri and M«sa til
Charm*. K*cu were it nnla Drsvldlui tmme, la no old Aryan dialMt roold it
signify tish-cnttfiry.

PERSIA

from Northern Beluchistan, find in supposed to be a gf

Foreign intermingled with Judin el words, or nee vemt r

Above Mekmn and along the entire extent-of Jfeluchifftwi, both
Persian mid Kehiti. extends the elevated urea, 3,0' HI to 4,000
, t1m feet in height, of what baa been designated the Belli eh
Doincli plateau. North of the scarp, which Constitutes the water
parting, the rivers—as, for instance, the Itaiupnr and
Mashkid—Sow away from the Rea, and are ultimately lost in large
hr man* or twain pa, which at di lie rent periods of the year present
the appearance of vast lagoons and shallow marshes

Merging on the north in the plateau of Persian Betuchkmu is
the mountain region of Scrhad. in reality the non them prolongation
of the great elevated mass forming the highlands of
Khorasan* Thk remote and inaccessible district has long
baffled the zeal of European explorers, Pottmger and St. John
having both tried in vain to enter it. At length in 1885 Captain
R. H. Jennings, an officer deputed by the Indian Gov + emmeot t was
the first to penetrate its mysteries, and to give to it mi existence
on the map. Its local name is t nut inappropriately, Yaghistan, Le.
the country of the Vagins, or outlaws of Reluchistun, Afghanistan,
and Seistau. He repotted it to centrist of a mountain plateau ?
from 8,500 to 8,000 Feet in height, surrounded by higher ranges,
beyond which are desert* on the north-east mid west, while on the
south are the districts of Bauipar and Dkzik. If contains two of
the tannujw or swampa which I have mentioned, and + what is more
remarkable, mi active volcano with three craters 12.Gdl feet in
height. This extraordinary mountain, at a distance of 200 milea
from the coast, might appear to violate the commonly accepted
theory of a subtle connection between volcanoes and the flea,
unless, which is probable, we suppose it to have fltoud upon the
sgptherii shore of the great central jnm of prehistoric frail. It Is
end led the Kuh-i-Tuftan. mid ul-tso the Kidid-Kayshmk, or rnoun-
tain of snl ammoniac, that substance being obtained from its sides.
To tfafl nouth-eost between Bainpur mul Bam h another snow-
crowned peak, the Kuh-i-Basra an . which is an extinct volcano, and
rise^ ia splendid isolation from (he desert. Captain Jennings
found Serlmd to be ii Limbi ted by ReliichL Kurd, and Bralvui tribes,
with an alleged total of I3 t -jGI) Fmmlies. 1 AH were Sunnis, all

1 Thh K of toLsmfce Su, at the utter citnniu% Is 1U rm Mctkdl

Khan’* e-tirunte of 1,425 famiLe*.

THE EASTERN AND SOUTH-EASTERN BR0VINCES Sfi»

detested the Persian*. all subsisted upon rapine ; an'l the Persian
authority amounted to little more than a prudent recognition ol
local chieftains and an occasional armed expedition for the coltec-
riou of revenue. Serhud prod aces an unlimited supply of sheep
and goal s, and grows an i mine use amount of tamarisk, camel-thorn,
and ttsnfcctidn. Its principal pluee, and indeed the only place
which has hitherto figured on the map, i- Washt, a large village
i nimbi ted by Kurds.

A few of the reiimintiur districts or subdivisions of the pren iuce
are deserving of mention. Dissak in the east is administered by a
deputy of tlie Governor of B&tnpur. It includes Kuhak,
re “* the border district that waa forcibly appropriate! by the
Persian* in 1*73, and Jalk, the extreme possession of Persia, as
officially certified, on the north-east. Jalk, he. the ‘ Desolate.' con¬
sists of a number of villages, with a total population of 2,o00 to
3,000, and of nine picturesque loop-holed f-rts in n.big date grove
lilliag the month of n ravine for a distance of about four miles. J he
principal, or Miri fort, was formerly destroyed by a detachment of
Nadir Shah's army s but, though in a state of dilapidation, ite walk
are still fifty feet high, and it is impregnable against Baluchi attack
In the Jalk palm groves are u number of ancient brick-dcmod
steocturea of various shapes from twenty to sixty feet in height,
which are suppos'd to to tombs, and are locally attributed ton race
of KfitirB many Imnflied yeaiTS a^ F o.

'Hie district of Serbaz, to the north of Chahbar and G wetter
has been more frequently visited by European* inasmuch as
through it run the main routes from the sea to Hamper.
It contains Kasrknnd, the principal town and seat of

government of Fenian Mekran*

Between St?rbaz and Btan-Katnnadit, which 1 have spoken o±
earlier n« the frontier province of Kerman, if the considerable dis¬
trict of J lam pur. 1 whose chief town, bearing the some
Bu ‘ up “ name, is the capital of the Governor of Peraiau Beluchi-
stun, who is himself subordinate to the Prince Governor of
Kerman, Tlio chief feature of Bainpur i* a large, well-built mud

i fat that ports, 1 refer Ujy readtt* to n future chapter an ilia Person Ralf-
* P*t U llif Tcrtalnalian. ,L|?nifyin ff < town 1 (Sanskrit p*"0, *> oomwon in
Indian dams* place*, ««■ Caw-pah. Manipur. It. nr it* n^l.bonr Bto. «■
HUpposwl to 1* the Il-rpa. the capital at Hwlrwi*, th™gh «W* AlaKSiirfer
nuirc^ri'fi on his waj lnc)t from Indin ill S‘2-1 IkC.

PERSIA

fort* crowning tin elevation about 100 feet in height, three miles
north of the Bumpy r river, whose watery regulated by dykes, a re
distributed over the L'niiTi-pvtuiucing lands, which are Crown
property, of the surrounding vilbgi's* A garrison in kept hero of
fifty artillery with *ix guns, as well us three hundred regular
in inn try and fifty cavalry. There Ih altio a permanent tSeluch militia
live hundred strong in the n^hbourhcod* The Persians have lately
built n large new fort at Palmra (where also is a lofty dd fort)*
about fourteen miles, to the ea^t of Bum pur. It covers a square of
-HO yartl>: h has four towers* and cm accommodate 1,000 men.

To the south-east of Bampur, and north of -Jask, is the little
known and dmoet unexplored region of Ihtflhafcerd, whose prin¬
cipal town is Anguhrun. It is a backward and im¬
practicable region* consist mg of a labyrinth of nigged
hi lb, intersected by huge rocky watcrcoorsea, and enn taming a
scanty pipu lilt ion of half-naked savages, with a marked infusion
of negro blood. In the region between Junk and Bint, Persian
authority is less firmly established than on the eastern border ; and
the petty chieftains in this neighbourhood are practically left alone
so long as a moderate revenue is paid into the royal exchequer*

I have described Persian Beluchtstaii as it. now exists in the
haudfi of its Persian musters. It cannot ho contended that their
Fer^ai, rule bus been u success On the cenlmiy* it lias been
h** 1 Attended with oppression, corruption, and consequent,

revolt, I have frequently depicted tlw lYrdan petty governor or
official as one of the most. undesirable and flagitious of the human
race; and with n poor, unarmed |»opiilftEion. such as they have
encountered in Belurhiistan, the members of hts class have found
ample scope for all their talents. Taxes have been collected twice
over at the point of the bayonet; local chiefs have been EUrt-sied
or removed ; the people have been driven from their homes, Thu
consequence is that agriculture baa fallen into decay, the irrigation
system ha.s broken down, inui the miserable peasants have Hocked
out of the country in hundreds to India or Mascot* Owing to
the neglect and co!k]>se of the dykes on all the smaller rivers*
whereby their waters were held np and diffused in omuls over the
land, the channels of the main rivers have widened to an enormous
extent* the water furrowing an aimless eourae down their sandy
beds. Thus the Duidit, which in 1870 was 357 yards in width,
in 1889 was 860: the Hupeh or Italy. which in 1800 w m 220

THE I ABTKRS AND SOUTH-EASTERN PROVINCES !HK

prdg acro^, in Ir’H* was <316# At Ifcunpur, the enipnitiro
amn-i'd by l lit* P< rxi:in Governor. "si^ Abul Fath KbfiB, n notable
specimen of It is breed, was ko great that, in Jj*nv tb fe P^M 1 '

arose j and besieged him in bis fort; nor was the revolt allayed
till a more politic &uccessor had appeared upon the Bcem% aiul sent
the deUncjoent in chains to Kenmm. r Hie new Governor. Jemal-
eil-Hin Kluin f ]V u strong man, and has ruled well, the discontent
is now subaidin^, nm! the poor Bsluclii^, having made their pretest,
will probably relapse into the stagnant aeqaieswnco that is 1*^
gotten by the. fearful sight of breech-toiulersi and monntam-gons.
The spectacle that, may be witnessed across the border is not
one that is calculated to increase fheir contentment with Porsinn
*_ . . rule, while it fniffraepta the respect in which they have
^Ts.^a ihu long held the British iiuinfr. I here, their brethren in
bordtT Independent m Kelati Belncbistan, under the a-gin of
British protection. nre living in comparative' security and quietude,
in the fill) oyme tit of n liberty which their own videnci' w mutiny
fllone esn endanger. The recent journey ot Sir il, fsandeinuti,
the capable administrator of British Heine his tan, in the winter of
1890-91, from Knrrachi rui Ileln to Paujgur, the bonier tint**
adjoining the Pectmtn Kehak, while projected in order to reopen
the old kttjUnii Tonte between Sind and Seistflii, him bad the
further effect of con filming tile Belnchi chieftains, from the Khan
of Kelat downwards, iu tlieir loyalty to the British C«mn. A
detachment of Beludii levies keeps the pt'ace in Ptrajgort tlm
entire' state of Behicbifitan may he said to be pacing ns placidly
under British rule U' has Bokhara under that of her northern
rival; mid the real neighbour of Persia on the south-east is not
the Klum of KhtimiLOt of Kej, or even of Kelnt. but the British mj
who holds the keys of -Tiipire at faleatta.

RofTtas is thk Eastern Provisoes.*

I, E< n-Ctmtnit t*rorhiea.

K-lSIiAN TO VPAD,— S(.‘fjI«J>nt (jilltK** (IS81 j, Jmimal 1/ thf p.ti.ii.. vat. ii.;
A. Petenmhn ( IS*0>, Jteisr* fa# Orient, vol. it. pp. 310-MIX _ _

i | ^f^ve tu say that ihls (Wllcnt frontier offltsr hai. Jc.'t when starting
upoO a HWnd tour in torth Reloehhtmi. dial nt La* Hr hi (Jim. I M2)- Afl hum
before hearing by tiilEgmnj of lii» death. I received a katg nu>l cnltuniMtic letter
from him nbom hi* frun tier policy, of which 1 was n niHisJ advocate

> i„ this table ibid. I%nl£e* the wort by the «atu« mitw before n wnHn n a n.

PERSIA

lfFAHAA' to Vk7.(m nVJ GulHabid, anil Akdji).-K t Ablwit (l8lt+).

Journal dftAr i?.fr.iS. p VCiL xxr. pp, HJ-20; Sir F r Goldimki (1885), unrf

/'rtirr^ pp, p.V; CoLum l EmD-8mitii 0870), Hnffrm /V^id, tcL L jip. 104-173;
E. FloiiTT (1-878),. £ Wr/iAimiJ Cap. j.v. ; E„ SUi^k (18-91), ■SjV J/jiifA-i

jJl yuI. y. op, i.

DKHRllt TO Yiffliff (rra Atuirgnh anil Taft)—Calolud Tfvltil (1807); (Sir)
C. MacOn?^ (I&7S), /irNr«5 fkrvvtfk J£Liru*a n m voL, L cap. ill.

aiflBAJ To VR£D (ii'a Zorgfaitp, Seitlnn T 3Ifllanifao.fi, and Ahnrgiih},—A, Ouprfi
(lHiifi) P Iflyafc i** A**-* vol. y. otp, xlfa

TiElHxnAST td Keickas.— !S^guatit Gibbon- (IS31X

Ykki> TO Kiom (pfd K^rmimLuihiin, Anar, and Mnhitibjul).—fL Abbcitl
(JblQ), Hrid. t pp. 21-9, Sir F. GoldaniM (I8GG), ibid, pp. 073-5^0; Colanid Kmn-
ganltli (1870), iftirf., pp, 1TG-183; EL, Flim-t (l&7ti)> ibid., q;^i_ jd\\; JL, Stank
(mi), Wd* Tot, L

TBEU TO KARITL. Mh A’Court (182d), jth£iTsv tfJw rn tty,

¥md To HXua? {rid Khaf)*—Captain Cfbri^ijj^ (1S10), Appendix to FoHLhgfif§
Tmrvh (So Be 1 tap?A iftan-

Yk^d to MraiiBO^Captain Tmilbier (1807), Mrmairr, par M, Daussr.

V£53i TO Tabu A* (Ka Suknnd, i'a^M-i-Baibin, Kfauf, Aki.il Hehrjian (Sir)
L' + lluiHin^r (1S7JV), ibid^ vtik i. pp. 81-121; Colond C. E. Slerart (18H0], Piv~

rrrril#$i vf tkf /i , (F,A’ P (flAW ieriefl)* vofa liE.

Yezpto Semnax (ri*i Aitafdc).— LEuut*Dant H. B, Yflisgtijin (19*8), Proceed*
^WjfJ &f thr U &Jk (now r.«riswX V °L lit

KEBmAX TO SkiIlLAr„ 1, (rid Sbftlir-kBabek and Arnnjf\n) T —(Sir) H (otttnger
. Cftf! svii, e. (Pirt HaklaW and Slri*)— (Sir) U St r John (1872),
A>rjfrj*a /'r.-'jn'ff b voL i. pp, 92-111.

SlllliA?, TO Pam (m S'Lrii, Saida bud, AhtofidU and TC till bar).—-K. Alil>o!t (.1850),
ibid., jip. SS-T8,

Hah To Sei^Tav Colonel Kaim-SmitL (1*72). 'Aicf , pp. l;l]-233.

Xeeha.V to BiiiS-UK <Tiu Earn and Bcgaia).—(Sir) LI. Fottinger (LilOj, ibid*,
TlF-TT-t ^sr Fr GddwtW <1366). pp. B30-60&; Colonel Fnan-Smith
(1811). (Ud. n pp 191-KXt; (^ir) O St- John (LSTSX pp. 7iM»L

KSBUAIt TO lilBJAXD.—J. P. Fatrk fc r <184S), ( T ffftWIW Jpumtyr, p. 440,

K &HM as TO Neh.—N, de KLumikort (lijfJVK ^widrT, s>p.

KiltlAi to Ik'Jf ukii Aie nAs. l.{fr'(i Unft and Unu); 2. feia Elndbar and Bah*
fa nr).— A.E,flchind3cT (1879). JStft. drr fibrilJ*r £rd r tn BnUm, 1881,|^3P7-46flL
Likgaii to Ye7,o {Vm BkHtakud Forg). Ugntunant II. H. Ynuglian (HH0) F

ibid*

Buy one An ha& to Bam.—S ir F GoldankiiS (1872), StiKmaJ pf the li.0,,%
ioL iM(. pu IH* 1 ; Cotcmcd Fnnn-SniEllj, pp 247-140

jASlt to Birxocn AMliA-<— CnptmEL W* F Owt (1809), Journal *f tfe ftv'jtil
Aii&tir toL t..

Jae^R TO kEitMAS (riri AagTihmo, >IaHEjjftll t Ktihnu h am\ Bni!in).^E. Ftojer

(1878),. iM^CApe. dj.-Aii

Ja»k to BAMPt’M. ]. {rid (idi)—CaptAlfi \\\ F + (Irani (1809),, aid, (rf#
Bint ftftJ Fimoch hmJ -B, Flower (1870), ibid* pp. t,J8 p ami ^Narwl flhr
JV. &J^T«I. Al^lL ji. L88.

JA.^K ToGwAPL r ft(r,fl i'Esnhhar). Colo fid B. CL fioss (1857), /VnirA-dfar/j

(Ar toL EtL p. 139.

TIIK EASTEBN AXI> SGUTH-EACvl'El!y WtOVINCES

CiuiiitAflio —Captain W. 1*. Gwwvi (liW), ilii.

Chaus Aft TO Tt*JiPT:iL-|!ir V . GoldunW, ( 1 S 66 ), T < rlt s ™,,h aud Travel .

pp, <Wi_GUi

gwettkji to ^AMUJlt(ruJ KaMkunrl).—Cjiptais IV. P, Giant (I stilt}, 4 |l, 'i--
GlTiDHtTi) 1! A MTU It (riJ Ciiliatand KtisrkunS),—M jiJoi IS, LotcU (1371>*
Eail*m ml, i. pp. 133-131.

GH'iSl H t« Jalk {Vid Fishtn).— (Sir) 0. St. Jflfali (ISIS), PP- W-W- (

H i if pith to I’luHlM (ria Serbai),— Major U. Lovt-lt (lfil). ilti/.,pp. 131—183;
Colonel Bums Smith (1371). 212-2E3,

Jalk to Baiippil—(S ir) O. SG Jolts (1272), ibid. pp.

pkksja

aea

CHAPTER XXIV

TUE ^Qtmi-^TSTEEN PBoYINCKg

Mftlitu infeslus sribi luclafkiia
DS^idrt jumif-

Huavet, tar**. Lii. &

Thu iVreLnlip Am-yrtan, nixl Baby Ionian mutsHieliJta. Inl^hl bo gained in u,
morning a .v i r II fjsUli ^nd lW tioitriali of a ^ahrc.

IV UlSIUHLl, Tiinriwi.

The physical ixmformatieni of Persia, presenting as it does the
extreme vicittiitudea of climate, coiTes|xKddittg with those uf altitude,
Sonvvri from the enervating heat of the coast plum*? to the rigour

m of mourifcun heights rarely left by the snow; the racial

features and archaic habit*? of many of its peoples; and the
unsettled character of its government, are responsible for a phe¬
nomenon that has almost disappeared from the organisation <>F
other states iai h *n which civil feotion has in any degree laid its
crystailifling huger. Jo countries with which the ordinary English¬
man is familiar* be it us native, or colonist T or resident. popula¬
tion, attracted by agriculture or congested by industry, Lb settled,
and for the most part sedentary, movement to and fm being
limited to the more or less permanent migrations of families, in
deference to the exigencies of comfort, of livelihood, or of space.
An alternative residency, according to the season of year, is the
privilege of wealth and the mark of luxury. In Persia, on the
other hand, where population is sparse* where the cultivable area
is relatively Email, and where great spaces are occupied by bleak
mountain d tetri el > , remote from the conirel of government, and
adapted to pastoral rather than agricultural pursuits, the im¬
memorial prescription of the Hnsi still survives; the tribes move in
compact i letncbmenls according h* the period of the yrar T carrying
with them their entire housed told furniture and wealth, find ex¬
changing the lowland valleys or riverain plains, which they have
occupied during the winter, for the higher and cooler errata* when:?
life is supportable in the summer heats. KieUak (from hzh } he*

THE BOOTH-WESTERN PROVISOES

winter), and yeifak (from ytt. Le, year), are Turkish words
ployed for the tribal haunts at the two periods* The Persian
words garmtiir (warm region) and mrtkir (cold region) cover u
similar application. At the division of the seasons tha nomads
may be encountered upon the march, their black goats*-hair tents,
as easily pit* tied as struck. dotting the slopes, and thnnsamb of
sheep and goats heralding or trncuinbermg the column, liven
at other times in almost every province of Persia, but particularly
in those which I now approach, the traveller utf the beaten track
will alight upon their encampment*, and may study in nineteenth
century duplicate the pastoral economy of the books of Generis nr
Job.

A perusal of the pages of this work will havt? shown that the
population of Persia is in uo sense of a bomOgeneou 3 description.
FVM^i Priced us her territories have bean in the track of
^l^meFLL- ^rtidesj, they have been repeatedly overrun* and at times
held in long-enduring pawn. As the human tide has ebbed rind
flowed, It. has deposited large portions of its burden ti[>nn Persian
soil; and the mere sjiectade of a country, owning an Iranian
majority among its people, an Arabian religion, and a Turkish
ruling dynasty, is enough to indicate u history of storm* If is
from the foreign elements tlms imported into Persia, and there, so
to speak, precipitated and left, that the nomad jjortum of her
present population is chiefly* though not wholly, derived.

Roughly speaking, the trills of Persia 1 are susceptible of a
fourfold clarification— Turk* (i.e. oflkhoots of the great Turkl or
Triiw j Turkoman or Tartar slock, not to be confused with the
Osmioili branch of the same root); A nibs, Hriuehis, and
a great uaraelcaa class, sometimes described m Lobs, by those who
defend their common Iranian origin, more commonly known by the
names of rheir various constituent elements, the principal of which
are the Kurds and Lurs. with the Foil is, Bukht Earis, Mamasonnis.
elc„ 11 ^ hub^LhrMens of the latter title. In a greater or less

i Of fr¥f Gristing noeouTitA of the tribes of Persia, 1 an ontj rile thv
n *ia the Sms* s^iMEsatofy : Sir tf, ttdcxjUfl (ISW-IO), JTfrfcrf, *ol. (i.
d|J- otiLi M, JotumPiia is Dupr^i Virydgr m J, P. Moricr (JH14-

15), Jovrtutl r if tkf /?. viL pp. ; C_ Hitt** (11*38-40). 1/it tinikumJ*

rm Aston* vol. vLj Sir j. sh^il CIS 40 -& 0 ), Xofp to La-1? *huil's HI injur* +f Uft;
Comte J + de fEmibectMUsart Smemtin* «p, fr *; nnrt F ftjrftgel,

t«L L Kilter'* 1* most. trjnipnshfljusivfl aoMunt* nw] t»m-
i man: nearly ihsia ihaotiwt to ibo *f*fWf«,

pniteiA

-7 0

degree nil these tribes contain a settled population, which in the
case of the Turks OOWtatilteft an enormously preponderant ma¬
jority, in that of the Anita and Bducbis n divided majority, in
timt of the Kunh ami Lnrw a decided minority. The settled peoples
or* 1 ' known a* fhskMtifh t irj* or i^e, dwellers in cities

or villages ; the nomads us mkra-ni*hhi.% t,e. dwellers in the open
country. All nomads rrmy further be grouped under the designation
Jliut, a Turkish word, which is the plural of J7, a family or clan.
Or the entire population of Persia it has been assumed that one
quarter, or over 2,000*000, are in the noinadtc state. 1

Among the Turkish triltes of Persia, which are most numerous
in the north and north-west, the be^t known are the KaJ*ra (the
tribe of the Shah), the Afidiart (the tribe of Nadir Shah;,
the EjosguduB of Hamuilim, the Shah Sevens of Ardebil 1
(supplying the Royal Bodyguard), the Turkomans of the Gupgan
and A trek vajlays, and the Kashkni hordes of Furs and Larietxui.
Of these the last three contain the only remaining nomad ele¬
ment*, changing their pasture* according to the season of the year.
The Goklan and Yomut Turkoman a have been dealt with in Voh T +
and the KaEhkms in Chapter XX.

Of the Arab tritas, 1 have previously mentioned some sections,
localised in the eastern district* of Khornsnru There are also many
Anil PflrtjpwuBfti Arab tribes both m the neighbourhood of
Knn3^ flk. Tdifitfiii find a]i mg the coast-fringe of tlie Gulf. The
Kurils 1 huve already described, both tut the north-east and north¬
west frontiers. Similarly the Belndda, who are to be found in
Seistan, Persian Beluchistan, and on the Gulf fringe, have been
dealt with in Chapter XXITL The most conspicuous i dust rat iodj s
however, of tath the second and the third etas*, a!x*re mentioned,

i f| |a Impossible to nmvf *J any sdutillfe r-Uiniatn tit the HEimbeni of £ba
nnniad ].*.'pala< Lon. 370 ceniEU or register of bixth^ Is ki pi z Use *caJe of military
contribution nffiarili no due; and an Approximate calculation is mly arriml at

hj taking tbe number of the famUfra. whlob art roughly ascertained far iCieu ma
purposes by fche thief*, Equally difllciil! is it te exploit their pant history. The
nnniad tribe* appear never to have developed a folk-lore. or prtwjqc*! a book, or
Karboanxl an htatoriH- Kudi historical detail* a* are contained in ihla chapter
hutc hern laboriously gleaned from a wide variety of flaurve*, partly written*
partly oraL

i 'fhii' Seven* or Kin^bvirs were -o railed by Gbnh Abba* rhfl (Inat,
who. ifi order to break the oicsfsivc power of the seven Kmlbtt-b, or Ked-licftil
frit* 1 *, -who had raised hmdl to the throne. UJKHriitata? a new tribe of hi< own
flupportem

THE SODTH-AVESTIIIIN PKQYINClItf

art

occur in the provinces to which my survey nfthc Persian dominions
has no w bn night me. Here are to be fount] tit once the mens]
interesting, the most original, ami the !«u?t generally known, of the
sub]ecta of the Sbail +

Before 1 proceed to their examination, let me premise that
nomad life everywhere in Persij|(nnd, indeed, wherever 1 have Been
^ ^ it, the Bedouin of Arabia and the Turkoman nf the Desert

preset!Sing much the samecharacteristics) exhibits cart-siu
common features which are predicable or it, independent ly
of race and iwlitics, These art 1 features, firstly, of organisation,
and secondly, of character. Tribal and dan feeling is very strong.
A patriarchal form of government, i,c» deference to elders or headmen,
successivdy of the household or tent, of tho village or camp, of the
clan, and of the tribe, \s universal. Obedience and loyalty are ob¬
served within, these limits, but not outside them. Taxation Ik only
successfully exacted by a Government that employs tills machinery ;
and I he intrusion of a civil revenue officer would be h perilous es>
jierimenL A military contribution i* commonly exacted by thi-
State f its selection mid equipment being left to the chief The
semidpde pen den re thus created renders the nomad tribes very
sensitive of restraint and prone to rebellion, the more so as Govern¬
ment interference has never in Persia presented itself to them
except in the guise or mean and odious interference with their
cherished privileges, of ready-lipped perfidy, or of heartless extor¬
tion. Undeniable virtues of character ant- balanced in them by
Frank and uttrepented vices* They are hospitable, domestic, simple-
minded, innocent of the foul debaucheries of she city Persian* On
the other hand, they are rough, ignorant, and sometimes fierce r
they glory m plunder, 1 and are. in many cases f admit thieves r
Little practical religion is known to them but that of blond, which
vents itself in family feuds, pursued with nnshikud ferocity till

1 )l.my nmii-su j £EOti« :i-Tv nr ihe htnKliiiity tam forphodcrof ihcr

iHium;! Ajlmte 'nbrv ont: <if iln-ir clilrfp- to Imlm in imd

Einkcd him what he tliulmlit of CalouU-v. Hi I oyem jltI l«ft frplild*

1 What, a nobSo place to plunder \' This rcmlndi onu ot thr 1 uitta'ilulc of ibc
Kn -Hclmnin. w!n,i, whim inducts! to Ehi 1 potJAhfr! irninllt- ImHij-cliEimbcr in Elii>
brart of tbo tin-at i'^nucild, ‘Quo! job fmpljit^cneiir pun? lib bilkrdi'

A iimiliLr fta*7 U related of on Uktaft chief* who, hoofing Sir-gi Jhn of ISokhliTll
dilate np*jn the nrwii of Family. iekrd him If ihcrr w™ any or

mblihg, th&rt. 'No*' wan tho answer, 1 Ah, UwbV h* said, ■ Farad tac won’t do
for me/

PERSIA

whole household w have iiarnetimcs Wn extiqmtrd. The ayinpo*
the tic und not too squeamish visitor will like them* Tltey will
catufc the cross-grained or sensitive to blaspheme.

1 liavi* spoken nr the fit ritmla towards them of tin* State, and I
itj ay hare Rumninris*.- what will appear over and over again in these
p.sr^Lfe] pages, hi the statement that nowhere have the baser and
t™ 11 */ more contemptible aspects of Persian govern men r been
so noticeable or so calami cons as here. Tim Intestine warfare of
the last century led l^ritli Ali Shall, who, though timid, was suf-
Ikdently astute, to see tbiit the power of the sovereign could only
he effectively maintained in Persia by one of two means—unque^
lioned military superiority ocn the part of the monarch, which it
required a Nadir, or T in ;l te*s degree, an Agin* Mohammed. to
effect—or a policy of di^ennion among the tribes themselves* Re
sedulously devoted himself to the latter object, and has been fol¬
lowed therein by Ills successors. The very fends of which I have
spokedi and by which members even of the same tribe ary distracted,,
have been made the instruments of State policy. Qne tribe has
\u-pn pitted against another tribe, one chief against another chief;
and thus the nuiinoyities of individuals or communities have served
the purpose while relieving the purse of the sovereign* At the same
tkne that the tribes have been incited to mutual destruction* their
leaders have been tons from their homes and, while nominally
detained ns hostages. have been subjected to the corrupt and
demoralising influences of the capita). Their tenure of office and
their restoration to their people have been slope 1 !]dent upon their
iv ill in guess to serve as tools of the policy and conduits to I he ex¬
chequer of n corrupt administration* Hie only chieftain* with any
shadow of real power now left in Persia are the Klmn of Kuchan,
the Amir of Kniu, and I he Vnli of PushN-Ktih. Simiiltaneoiijtly^
the armament of the tribes has been discourage - the poverty of
the chieftains liWi brought with it a d+*“Une of the burse-breeding
establishment.- for w hich they we^ oner fimoUB; and where the
Iliata of Persia formerly constituted her armed strength on the
battlefield, they arc now disabled, disloyal, and broken. JhVrVfei ef
impem may he a good enough motto for the imperai{fr r but it is a
fatal one ns Applied to hi-S victims ; and the Kujar kings will have
the mischievous distinction iu history of having sapped and deci¬
mated the manhood of their country.

In the sixteenth chapter of this work I brought mj survey of

rrn: soi Tii-wKSTi-ntx provinces a?3

the north-western and western provinces of Barak down to the
parallels of Kt'nnari^ltJtli and Ilanmdnn, Mi rough which towns
Fknvrwwol r!jB ^ the main caravan truck from HuLdidiul to T&bnmii.
I.un-t-i3 There I left the Kurds of the TnrcoPersian borderland,
in oocopilloti at mce of the surrounding territory and of my pages.
A little to the south of Kermanahah they adjoin and lire merged
in the cognate* or. at lcn-Hi a not alien, tail's of Lure, who give tiuir
name to Hie obscure and mountainous province of Lurktan. This
territorial title lias a twi t-fold signiiication! according as it is applied
to the entire country mh a hi ted by the tribes collectively known ns
Lurs, or to the Persian province so culled, which is administered
by a governor at Khommmbud. In the former sense, Lnristao may
be said to comprise tin? entire beltrfmoantamoiis country, stretch¬
ing from the plains of the Tigris and the frontier-mountains on the
w$st to the borders of i-dhliftn and Fora on the east, and from tin-
dhstricEs of Kertnanrhcili ami ITnmndnii on the north to the plain k
■ ■f Arabkton on the .south* The principal tribes inhabiting the.—
mountain rjiisg:-> are sev.-mlly known ns the tVili' T Bnkhtijiri, Kuh-
gelu, and \tnma>enni—all of which frill strictly under the generic
deification of Lure, although the title is disowned or 3uis been
abandoned by some or their number. In its restricted or ad mini b*
tmtive sense, in which I shall here use it, Luri&tan is the proving
inhabited in the main by the first of the above sub-divisions* vi*.
the IV Ui Luis. Their country is known ns Lur*i-Kuduk, or Le^er
Lurittnn, and is roughly divided by the Ab-i-Dk, or Hirer of Dixfnl,
from Lur i-Bozurg, or Greater Lnrittan, which* bdug peopled by
tlie Bakhtiari tribes, who jiossess characteristics and interests a [in it,
has coma to lie jjopukrly known os Bakhtiari Land. The dasslfL
cation that I shall follow will, therefore, tie threefold, relating
successively to Lur-i-Kuehik, or the land of the Foil! Lurs, to
Bakhliari Land, aud to the districts of I he remaining Ltir tribes.
This done, i shall pass to the province of Khuristan, or Arabistan*
which adjoins the adinLuUtfnlive Luri^tan on the south, including
some of the more southerly Lnrs within itn borders, and stretch*-
to the Tigris T>e|ta and the Persian Lulft

Who the Lure are and whence they catne is cue >f the unsolved
nuil insoluble riddEen of history, A people without, n history,
origin a literature, or even a tradition, presents a phenomenon
Hi*, fjm-i i n face of which science stands abashed. Fifty years ago
ItowUuson described them os an ' unknown and interesting people 1 ;

VOL. IL T

274

PKIiSU

and although m thesa* pagvs will be present wl more aids to know*
ledge than can elsewhere be found, Vet I cannot, profess to lift the
uqrtain of an inscruiable past. Are they Turks? Ai> j they Per¬
sians? Aiv tLi y Semites Y All three hypotheses have been
urged* Tf]iy appear ta Itolcmg to the same ethnical group ns the
Kurds, their neighbours on the north; nnr does their language
which is u dialed of Persian P differ materially from the Kurdish
tongue. 1 On the other hand* they themselves consider it an insult
to l?e confounded with the Kurds, whom they call Lets; and the
majority of writers have agreed in regarding them as the veritable
relies of the old Aryan or Iranian stock, who preceded Arabs,
Turks, and Tartars in the land. Uawlinsonsays skit their language
is descended from the old Farsi a which was comvnl with, hut dis¬
tinct from, the Pehlevi tongue in the days of the Sassanmn king*.
WMlfit, however, we may accept this ns the most probable hypo¬
thesis, and may even be led thereby to regard with heightened
interest these last 3 arrivals of an illustrious stock, we are not com¬
pelled to endorse the conjectural connection of Bakhtiim with
Knctrui, which Ims been propounded by some writers, ■ or to local is*:*
their ancestral home. It Is snltirieut to lelieve tliafc they are
Aryans by descent, and to know that they have livid for cen¬
turies In their present mountains, The word Feili means a ivbrl,
while the word Lnr is commonly applied as a synonym for a boor
by the modem Persian?, who detest the Lars almost m cordially
m they ufv detested by them.

Of the number of the Liirs it b scarcely |>ossible to speak with
greater confidence. In 1 836 Ibiwlinsou gave the numbers of the
s ? Feili Lora ami their dependencies as 56,000 families; in
1843 Lnyard returned them as 40,000 families. In the
same yeara respectively, Kawlimon gave the totals of the Bakhtinas
and their dependencies os 28 t OQO families. I. nt ardus 37,700 families.
A calcuhitLoti made in 1881 fixed the total of persona as follows :
Feills and dependencies 210,000; BakhUu is and dependencies,
170,000; Knhgolus, etc., 11,000; grand total of Lura, 421,000.
I am disposed to ihink that this is an exaggerated census - f

1 ttich* ibfl traveller En Kmdht^Ul, deolnml tbit the Bftkfct Earls wra KunE>
(jVdr*wri*Y F *tc., vut. i. p_ 1 ISO).

1 fikshH" hnvx- asoJn- *9 1-nr =ls m b;u** tm thi* ro^mbSara-e ibe assertion tbaZ the
B*khtinri lira I he relltH of one of the Gnsl cotopttes Mt bj Akxtmder m Asia, an
hjpolhetiii for which the further mppatt m okimed of a. simllirity Eh the Greek
usd Baklulari natEoKml tlnecus.

the aoura-WESTEitx provinces

although the prevalence of polygamy among the tribes, and the large
famiUea reported by recent travellers, may 1>e held to justify the
opposite opinion.

Lnr-i-Kudiitj or Lessor Lurbtan, embraces the region between
BMul on tin" south, and the routines of Kemmnshah on the north.
T1 ^ and between the Ab-i-Diz on the east s and the Turkish
frontier on the west. Id i> subdivided into two stations
Killed respectively PM-lvuh, i.e. Before the Mountains, or Ckmon-
tane Luri^tati, and Pnglit-i-Kuh, Lii [fo him l the Mon n tains, or
Trausraontane L[iristan. the dividing ridge liemg that section of
the Zngrm range which is locally known as the Kebir Kuh. Till
the accession of tin Kajar dynasty there was no political distinc¬
tion fictween the two; but Rinh-Kuh way taken away by Airha
Mohammed -Shah from the \ al t of Luristan. who has ever since been
forced to content himself with Puaht^i-Knh. Hence it arises that
the FetLi nomenclature, which was formerly applied to the whole of
Lnr-i'tKuchik, has become restricted in jjopulnr usage to the Posit-
i-Knhj the FeHia proper constituting the bulk of the population in
the latter district,

Pish-Knh, which is e he extern portion of the Larin tan province,
has for it si boundaries ICennanshah lui the north, the Abd-Diz and
Plkla Kiib fc * lf1 country on the cast and south* and the

River Kerkhah oti the went. It differs both in political
organisation and in the character of Its people from Ptwht-i-Kuh.
For .^nce the partition before mentioned* it Ims remaincd under
the control of a Persian Governor* instead of n native chief, the
tuthmals or petty chieftains (lit* heads of the house) being subordi¬
nate and answerable to him ; whilst* owing to the proximity of targe
towns, such ivs Kenfurashak, Khorremataad, and Burujird, to the
accessibility of the district, and to the neighbourhood of the
electric telegraph, its population has lieeii inudi more exposed to
the influence of Government, and bus consequently become more
sedentary than is the case in the mountain (asfaeaaes further to
the west. The two main tribal divisions of Pisli-Kuh are the
lililek and Hclewftrzi ; «md these are subdivided respectively into
the Amnia and Bala Giriwa, and the Situ Siln and Dilfhn tribes,
which in Rawlinson's and LayanTs time wore, as now, the princi¬
pal names. Tin? subheadings or clans of these tribes have, however*
changed very' much since those days, having in some cases disap¬
peared. and in others changed their names ; 60 that it is useless for

rivnsiA

^ 7*1

02(> to reproduce it refer to the did lists * 1 Ainosg the bnsch^ oi
the Bala Girhm, however, the Pirikwnud have retained their old
preeminence for turbulence and brigandage. They nr - now under
erne Mir Elnji Khan, who is at chronic enmity with his nephew
Mir Numihtr Khan* Both are great robber?, and when not exer-
riging thulr predatory inclinaticmB at emk others expense, are apt
invent them upon travellers by the Diiiiil-KhoiTemabad ™d T of
the greater pan- of whicli, on the principle, 1 imagine, pf -seta
thief \<y catch n thief* they lore lieeii placed in charge by the
government. ^ For this sendee they are mrppoaed to receive a
subsidy from the latter; but as this k rarely, if ever, paid, an
Apologist for their excesses may find therein some excuse.

I have qwken of Khorrernobnd as i he pmeiitant of government
in J jurist an ; a distinction which the central losifcion of the town
and ita physical advantages have secured to it since the
Middle Ages. 3 A solitary rock rises suddenly in the jaw*
of ii p, opening upon a riot plain- At its foot lias the modem
town, which does not contain more than — ^000 inhabitants. Its
summit if? crowned by the Rain Htssar or mined castle of the
Atabeg*, which stands up with gloomy outline of walls and towers
like Bdiije robber stronghold of the Rhine, Here these idl-buL-imli^-
I indent rulers of a bygone age lived in lordly style, the castle
bring supplied w ith water by a deep shaft sunk m the rook to a
luagnilicoiit spring below* Within the shell of the old fort Moham¬
med All Mi™, tlie eld^t ton of Fath All Sbnb T and governor - i
Luristan, built himself a p:iW\ which is now also in a state of
decay, TV present governor lives in an edifice at the foot of the
nxk. 'Hie Khorremabad river, spanned by n long bridge of twenty-
eight arches, flows below* On the opposite bank, at a little dis¬
tance, lie the mins* of the Atabegs 1 city, of which a quadrangular

1 TTir lattnl ||ni tEiri! I Isfivi." mcH of Itur PI^ECnh trltjwi b iliai of A. H.
Sciliml]f-r (lh7H), Xrif. rf. fvrirlL f r AW, L Berlin, Vrtl. *lv. p. 82. Tbvj Minn
ciumbrrcii. lueunllog Lo offlnul tloqnrodiit^ 3D h A5P F.miiliiev,

i Hjb L-I a toariteplM vitittlw FuraianR. A few ytivn ngr> there was a
*KjUm 1 mb her chief of the HamawaM irfehc, nctniocl Jtn 51 tr KEmo, win? wjla Uitj
terror ol 1 the frontier district. near iLw-i-Shtrin. Uxmbta to raaroa him into
htfciftvii.ur, the IVniimshi nt&jlr hi to ^uanijiiEi of Lite frontier, with u
..iIjitt uf 3,000 (PwttHlr Ai Ik conllnuttl Etb dcprcrfalkHu. be wcu inritotl to n
friendly interview with m tfabwiy from TeEL-emn — another w*lUrtH} 0 |jBb«l
IVr*uin tUo — '.v's- trt&i-liiToufilv Mir A nnl *Lnm.

1 ll U thocipbt to hjivr been tiro Snatha of thu Mhldlu Ape*. TIls eanitle vm*
isriUcil Db-I-Slain

Tin-: SOOTH-lVESTKltN PROVISO#*

hriek tower wit It a Nuskht iiiBcriptimi, bearing the date 11 2d A - n -t
i§ n Speaking memorial. A battalion of tOO shabby Levs, chilled
out annually in the spring is stationed here m n local garrison.
The filth and misery of the present tow n have been well depict
by Jira + BtsbopJ

In the Puaht-i-Kuh, or countiy of the I'Vilis pmper, we come
to a region of superior interest, because of greater obscurity* I hm
Pmht-i' district consists of the mountain ranges, with their inter*
Kah vi■ning valley.-, (hat extend in arduous arid almost irn-

[jr-cietmljlo Emtceewi from the right bank of the Kerkhab to the
Turidah frontier. It in a remote and innw>dbl(? country; and it
is not surpri&ing, therefore, to find that the trilie^ are entirely
nomadic in character, and that their chieftain occupies a ppsition
almost independent of the central Government, a position, indeed*
that still leaves some flavour of distinction to the title which lie
continoBS to bear, of V&H of Pu^ht-i-Kuh. Of the belli Luts whom
he rules, X have only received lists 90 misspelt and inaccurate, that I
am unwilling 1 tu publish them : the tuore ft* I mi1 unable in
any but the moat fragmentary degree to recrodJe them with the
now obsolete lints of Rnwliiaori and Lnyard* The histoids however,
and the pedigree that E ahull give of the ruling family have been
derived from the Persian Imvemor nf the adjoining province, and
are correct.

In the old days Pieh-Knb and lWht4-Knh p and a consult nible
surrounding territory in addition, were united under t hi- rule of
the aforementioned Atabegs of Luriatan. I lie only do-
ll, t 17 tailed account of their dynasty, known m the Kh unhid i
dvnssty,* is contained In the Sheref Nameh, They ruled from
1 15a a.o. till the beginning of the seventeenth century ; mid their
dominion was counted by Marco Polo m one of the eight kingdoms
of Persia* At this early period the Lure had already vindicated
for themselves the unenviable reputation ns thieves and bandit*
which tlu'ir successors have diligently maintained. Mangu Khan
tlna Mongol, when oouimi^iornng his brother Hulaku Khon to tin*
government of Iran* gave him particular iuflfemcticmfl to niako
thing* uncomfortable for the Kurds u&d Lnrs. lij nsvenge lor their
plundering on the high roods. Timur ma r ch ed again*! tkm

fc Jinrntryt fii Unis, voL it. p. 1S£2-

- ify r^r^lac antJiarilr up: *Thv* B-msIdiered, tbuiu^lreft thedewendiuili t *r
Aklh son of Abl Tdib. But Gt*S Itan-ws beat/

276

PERSIA

became they could not keep their fingers frora the caravan* nf the
Mecca! tfund pilgrim^ and took both Khorrernabad anil J'nnijird in
fdS6 .UD, The last of the dynasty w?lh the famous 8hah V'erdi
Khan, Mir of Wirkond, who, by his (wsition and power. tedted the
jealousy of f^hali Abbas the Great, by whom he was seized ami pat
to death. The title of Atabeg was suppressed; bat the mount
office nus conferred, with the new title of Vali of Lnristan,' upon,
oni? 11 iiidii K1um r who hud risen to mme distinction in the service
of the defunct ruler. My Persian informant dad&fos timt the
family -d" the promoted Hasein was Arab in ori^in H being
descended fmro a chief or the Rnbnb tribe, an the west side of
the Tigris, who hud quarrelled with his countrymen* migrated to
Luri^tan, and there intermarried with the Feiiis. However this
may be. the dynasty thus promoted inis, retained the office ever
^inre, and its present umEinihent- is, m t!to accompmying pedigree
will show, j \ lineal descendant of the prott/jS of Shah Abbas,

rKDIGREK OF THE Jil LIMi FAMILY OF THE FeILI Lt'fe

(PtSfiT-I-KUH).

E 1 e>nx KHAS | rfrr. IMO), App&LMmi
VjJE of Jjirirt4ll fc* Miali AbUu In
riLi^ 7 tfclul 3 Em tstiuh ¥ trill KTi#n

“a

HL»t|k Kh.IJT, ViU

UM.AIL JkOifc, ¥|3|
As ID KaiJkY. Toll
Hum*

lH«J tAtt. IS UY

Te ^} <» yKjLh A LI SiHAr, Vthb
lmar*lfiwl i ft G oiit .l|\ J Lli-qt
Futlirritiplnni m jK[ij, Mjlt . Tat
lilltiwJI □iiLnW-j^ij ^ri-UaLniM*
All lljiu

. Au la H x-i. V*u Amo UAIIiiKti Aij Knijr TaJI

4 On Lbe 4«|4i pf tlN’l r fur Iwrtf Lli* Ctnyi tw^lbcfi dlxi-lr-l tl* (riliem. Mi K Iwd Llmirlf V,

■f first, Inrt. Jfc*| litucu tiiB Htm& IJ^Llj-p AH Khwt\

s '"«? »"“£■**. Ttw miKT

ju EU 1HJJ, Ji mi AnalT.i-VoftiMj, pr itiuMn-
P r 5 w'™. .El h,

ivE’U EUts, .4 ffu a Fimtiar Mrtt?

1 am not aw/in- tlmt n single English of even European
tm^llor ever pwietmted into tli.> Tusht-i-Kuli before Captain
> Atllmt tine tbctv Wfw four VUi.in Fcnh. a ]| onjojiri* a K>ml. ind^n^.,.,
nn(1 Tl-i' Vali, df G^bfoafOoorjri*), Anfok*

KunltaUuO. Ltafofoo, ol llnwjrtfo IJf tW, (be fort two iifo n[; surrive UilK
UuErtl aloiw nt^Oft aujr iembiaiiDf nf Irr^lom,

AHM AWLS JjfJj (.rJLU L"£ CMf JTOJ imtf

279

THE SOUTH-WESTERN PBOVlSCBB

firjuit, the explorer of Ilelucliistnn, ft nd Lieutenant Fotheringham,
. r bo were among tlte band of brave young scut out by

F, -u* Sir J. Malcolm as Uis pioneers in 1810. They were mnr-
tmveUfin Q^rcd at K hpmanabad, by Kolb AU Khan, a chief of the
Vnli's family, under circumstance- which were related thirty years
Inter by an alleged eve-witness to -Sir H. Uyiml. 1 The next
Visiter was Major (afterwards Sir H.) Bawliiwon, at that time an
officer in the Persian army, who marched through the Feiti
country with a detachment of Persian troops in 183ft. 1 A few
yean Inter he was followed by Luvard; 1 and rhe Joint record of
their experiences and reaches, together with tlm remarks of the
Huron Me Bode, a Kna-iun diplomat, who travelled in tin- nd Joining
regions contemporaneously with LriynnU have remained ever since
tho sole text-book upon the subject, tn their time Ha.irn Khan,
» verv -ld man, was Vnli, and was at constant war with the I’creiui
Government, though once ejected by whom he managed te return,
and ruled ns an almost independent prince till hi- dentil, soon atier
]840. He was succeeded by his three sons, who disputed the title
and fought with each other. The youngest of these, Hnider All
KW under the patroitag* of the Shah, ultimately prevailed, and
it U hia grandson, Huseiti Kuli Klum, who now holds the office.
With an account of him, therefore, 1 shall bring my notice of the
Feili Lnrfl upto date.

Husain KtiTt Khan, the present Vnli of PnahH-Knli, ofwlmtn,
together with bis son, I present a likeness, is a Persian vassal,
nnd an Auiir-i-Toiaan, or riuvjor-geinjrul in the Persian
Ktfn** army. Nevertheless, bis status approaches more nearly
?'uHhtV to independence than that of any other subject of the
Kali ' Shidi, with the possibie exception of the Amir oi Kdn,
Hi- summer quarters are at Dchbaln, a secluded valley, very difficult
access, and easily defensible by a email number of men, at the
foot of n lofty mountain, known us rhe Manisht Kub, Here be
Mi f oml d in 1888 by Captain MmmscIL residing in a square stone
fort loopholed and bastion ed, and clearly constructed for purposes
of defence. In the interior, however, were a courtyard and
clmmlier, fitted with some luxury, and controlling European
appointments. The retainers or the chief, numbering some 2,50ft,
were camped around in tents and booths} bis armed foreseen-

* Etirty Adwitme** vdl* il. p|i. 324-S.
J /iuinUTi vf t&$ lLfr-Sn VtjLXtL

* Journal if ttu* , vnl. l.x.

Travel* pN fat rid a n, vol. |L J>p- 270-1*7.

Kitting of 700 horcenipii, 'veil mounted and armed, ami of 2.000
infantry, provided with Martiui-Peabody rides, that hud been
looted from across the Turkish bonier. ’ The Vnli seldom leaves
this position, or places himself in contact with the Persian
authorities, and h a* evidently very little intention of felling to
nn\ decoy. Hr* is a line-loti kilt g titan, with com in Sliding pr'Sano',
and a (lowing beard, which has procured for him the appellation of
IiUt l -;-l,vzvry, or ijongbeard. He is also- known us Ml Feili, Tim
I'eili, and Irani Ids cruel and murderous propemuitk-s as Jho
K'tAtrrk, or father of the Sword. The latter title testifies to Ids
character and rule, the severity of which has driven many of Ids
people across the Turkish border, and has made him unpopular
with his subjects. Though only fifty-five years of age, he is con¬
siderably broken down through drink. Ilis sou, 1W Kuli Khan.
:1 F oun lt Illan o< twenty-eight, i~ a tBiiip in the Persian service,
and was for some lime kept as an hostage for his father s good
behaviour by the Zil-es-Snltan in Isfahan. lie is a handsome
young fellow, and a keen sportsman, and is reported to hove a less
tyrannical mid more utmahle disposition than his parent. If the
Vali mid his people move from their quarters, it is ill the direction
"f Turkey mther Thun of Persia that they shift their tents. Their
winter domicil* is nt Huseinieli. at the foot of the Pusht-j-Kuli,
just within the Turkish border ; it is with Baghdad rid Knt-el-
Amnrah.on the Tigris, that I lie Vail trades; it is upon Turkish terri¬
tory that Jie makes his raids, constant disputes occurring aiiont the
ocoopation by the Lars of Ottoman soil j< and his sworn and in¬
veterate enemies are the Beni Urn Arabs, who are Turkish subjects.
He i* probably tlw Iml living representative of the old style ofBorder
chieftain, and is said to be ulite to call out SO,OOP fighting men.

Nowhere is rhe peculiar physical conformation of south-west
Persia, amdognus. us I have elsewhere remarked, in its feature* to
'Touhiillii i that ol I'.Ttli-fM.-f Khorasan, more observable rhuu in the
m«fntaiu abodes of the Feili Lum. Tlie ranges run in
parallel files, inclined from north-west to south-east, projecting
steep and craggy masses of limestone, which are frequently sawn
m right angles to their own trend by the ten.,* or carious through
wlurii the streams or rivers force their way.’ In the narrow

1 Vldr ml. L p. ,160.

: A t-utMl dHSnrtptnm of then. ratruorflBuj. drilled yen., siven far \V K I afr u i
in a iiu|:>t on iho 1 Urology of Portion* of tla T^lv* KmnMor.' In It™
V* '-' tnif Jtmnu! ^<^(1854), rol it p. f |; rf ^

irc&KlS ItffU HUX, TAIil flF TITKirM-Enr, UFIS MW

THE SOUTH-WESTERN PROVINCES 3M

Intervening valleys opening out into occasional plain*, and abun¬
dantly watered, there is rich fodder for the Hock* and herds
0 f the nomad tribes. In sheep and goat* their principal wealth
Connies; and they provide the towns of Kb or renin bad, Burnjird,
Kermfmahnhj and Hum ail an with mutton, Curds, and butter. On
the hillsides is n somewhat runty growth of dwarf-oak 1 and
mountain slirnbs, the former 1 tearing gall-ntils. which are an
article of commerce. The timber is but little reflected by the
Lurs, who cut it remorselessly for fuel, and supply the afore¬
mentioned towns with charcoal. Ell Feili himself has n splendid
breed of mutes which lie exports through Turkish territory, and
which are reputed to lie the finest in Persia. The great river of
Korth Luristun is the Kerkhah; just as Central LurLstim Inis the
Ab-i-DiK, anil Southern Luristun the Karan, Three parent
streuisH, rising in the neighbourhood of Hawaiian and Bumjird,
unite in the plain of Kiuignvar, and, under the title of fiarnnsinb.
How west to near Biatton. Here the Ab-i-Dinuwar (lows in from
the north, and the augmented stream turns south-wesi ami ith,
receiving successively the Kara Sit. the Ab-i- iu-sut rn. the Ktislignn,
■mil the Ab-i-Zal, until, after traversing the most magnificent
scenery as it breaks the ramparts of the mighty Zagrr.;- range,
it pusses within ten mile* of Diiful on the west, skirts the great
mounds of Susa, and is dissipated in the Hnwizch tuarches.
Formerly the Korkhnh had two outlets into the Tigris, one by the
Gt Klnni lied at Amarnh, the other a little below Kurnah Into the
,Sh Lit-el-A rail; but these appear now, as n rule, to be dry.

Though the Vali enjoys an authority ivhioli is but little interfered
with, lie it responsible to Government for n fixed animal revenue,
clmrnrur which is collected by the various tribal chiefs and bends
undlifi' of families u pou a rough scab* determined partly by the
number of tents, partly by the pastoral wealth of the purlieu hi r
cbn. His subjects have a bad reputation, in the main inherited.
Imt stistained by the plundering habits of the *Sftgwands in par¬
ticular, who ant a sub-division of tin- Rnjilan tribe. Fifty yenr-
ngo these confirmed freebooters were tjagki, i.o. in rebcllinn ; and,
along with tin- Dirik wamls before mentioned, they are still the
terror < F the passing caravan. Colonel Hell in IflS l nmrdied with a

i jin' oak fdn't- xiterwl from Runllslei in tire Smith In Sliiriit fu i!ie miiiIIj.
H.-mri s Bnnij 1 ** ■™ 1 IHlfuL tire lreodtn] non.' Is 1 ID-ISO tsilM Is bnpailtli, Ik-!»«h
eiiuslitef and Infnh&n wilsewliat mwe,

PERSIA

sanction of tilspenpla, wluttc chief, Ilnji Ali Khun H tried to mb him,
and worthily sustained tlie tribal reputaLioo. 1 Nevertheless Colonel
Bell formed n favourable opinion of (he Lilts os a whole, being
struck with their decorum and obedience in camp, with 'their
modest and frugal habits, and with their natural simplicity. They
art? a lighthearted people, much addicted to singing and chanting;
and their rebellious and thieving propensities are more probably
due to the life of Bemi-outlawry which the suicidal policy of the
Stale has compelled them to lead, and to the licence that is bom of
a sell-no j aired freedom, than to any ineradicable taint of vice-
The Feili Litre are ^mailer in stature than the Bukhtiaris furLlier
south, and dre*s in brighter colours. Polygamy is the fashion
among them, the extent of the harem depending niton the wealth
of the lord and master. Colonel Bells rascally host, for instance,
possessed the respectable total of twenty-five wives. Their religion
is of the mcait. nebulous description. Must are Shiah MobaminiB-
dnu^j hut they entertain very little respect either for the Prophet
or ilie Koran, and Lave ptr* or Holy men of their own, whose
Tombs are regarded ess sacred place*, and the chief of whom. Baba
BiiEurg T or the Great Father, is buried in their country- Traces of
Judaism have been delected id their worship, mid have excited
those amiable theorist* who ride the outworn hobby-horse of the
Lost Tribes; and there am also to be found among them All
tllahis, of which sect I have spoken in my chapter on Azerbaijan,
The females, after the fashion of all the Lur tribes, are on veiled,
and in wuili are a* wel 1-favoti red and comely as, at an age when
it western woman is at her prime, they become shrivelTed and
decayed- Their costume is a loose shapeless dress, with little or
no onderctothing. Tiny leu d a hard life, tending and milking the
tlockfs churning the milk in suspended skins, and clarifying the
butter, assisting to pitch and strike the tents, and weaving carpets
and the black goats’ hair tents in which they dwell. These aie of
ail sizes add shafiee., being supported by poles and partitioned by
carpets or matting into separate chambers for the women, the
kitchen, and the stabler, a large dr u'an-khaneh or reception
chamber being the first or outer compartment* In settled
villages, mat or mud huts take the place of the tent. The men
lead a life of robust but careless ease, sowing and reaping the crops
when- tillage is jio&ribte, cutting wood for charcoal, robbing and
1 April 1 BSD,

TH E SOUTH -\V ESTERX PROVINCES

fighting when the tdmnee occurs, or smuklng in cmtented idleness

at the tent door.

From the Ffiffi I pass to tie Bakhtakri Lure/ about whom 1
shall have much to say that is both interesting and new, Only
^ twenty-five years ago Mr. Watson, in hia Eliatoiy of Persia,
BiidiiiMw j e fr oq reojKl that * of their race and country very little
is known/ and, with the except inn of the scholarly writings of
liowiitiHOii and Lajartl, discoverable only, until the lather published
his absorbing work untitled E Early Adventures/ In the Frcceeclings
of Scientific Societies. and of Baron De Ilode ! > U^k, T know of no
work on Persia until the newly published and excellent volumes of
Mrs. Bishop, that attempts to give an account either of their history
or features. Here, therefore, I mvoke the friendly concern of my
leaders, while 1 endeavour to till what is perhaps the morh notable
existing gap in utir knowledge of Iran* 5

The Bakhtiari habitat is the belt of inoonbilmms country
between the district of She Feili Lurh and the alluvial plains that
TIhjIt alopc to tbo Gulf More strictly defined, it is bounded

cnimti-y | JV two tinea, which, following the prevailing trend of the
mountain chains from north- west to south-east* may be said to
extend from Bnnijird to the iiu^kirtK of Infahau on the north, and
f r , .in Lij.zf[]l and Slinshter to Itnm HflmmTi and the Behbehan

1 In local phTOKology ttnkliliart Ilius roomily come lo tie a*nl IV- a torn L *tried
tlian Oil ethnical dcM^nfitlon, UusnibnflU mad ertn Amildjms

Jiving j n the Bakhtiari country, will eallthem*ebii* BakhtiarSs though they would
bttgnlj n-ptsdlat* the Title of Lor. The natrk- UnkhLlarf appear* flow to be clilrfj
applied to thu latahitniiis of iha district* a»i of the Kuh i-mo# F.o. the upper
vaHeyi of the Knrtm and it* tributem**-- while tha** to the west, in the fflRMtlan
of AmhUtua, arc UQfH commculy known Lun?..

' The only oriciftnl KmrtiB of Inffanatjoa of which I mn awnrownraimlhtfthc
Bmkhtkris ant im follows: J. 8. Slacqaekr 0SSI ) w FSfbm IfimU#' JPttgrima^,

voL i. p. 1 IB ri Jr - 'j.: Anchor Eloy (I8.1S), JfrZrftalU sir Ityvtyw ra Orient,
pp, 2T0-S5 # 3£DuSl; (Sir) Hi Iktwlfcaoa JatirM/i/Oa vnL i*-i

(Sir) H. 1 -fijftid (ISifl-l}. .TW^vnl*. lii- and idi Adrr*t*nt» t 5 ? to!*, $

Kanin C, A.'ile Bode (IWIJy jflrannfi in 2 vj(k: E.. Dulio^t,

jMur fr# /nijiwfaifearrff J-? /Vr«*, 1H$3; A. tt/Bchlndlcr Zri#, der Or3*0,

fur JEW*. /JrWiH + toJL xiv.; E. 8 EJwk ^ -MWAi in S 4 *flur fe VoL iL

/*!>*. lit if-; Captain 11, 1-, Welli (HjSl). Prvdr-tfinfft of tbr (m-w

toU V.; Colonol M- 8 . Bdl (IB 4 MX April, Juno, and Jrdy,

A, Rtxller (lSSi), / J ifrnroijyM p r -Vi WVrfla^rf, l&HO j
Viocmar No. ffld. I88S? H. F. IS, Lynch Procr^dur^ tf tl? i?, fr.S, (new

i^rtefl^ voL xils Mrm. llbihop m Prrrm* 2 vob,, Lcttcn xiTK-xi,

own Intwmdfim l* largely derived from pcmonal Itu^Lry and froin uapoh*
limbed ?»oyre#*r

PERSIA

2 r >4

district on the south. The feemtory wtriprisvd within these bound¬
aries in smatvptiblo of a twofold cloasificatum. Fim. arc the lofty
mountain ranges from 8 T tHH) to 12,000 fret. in height, with p mk$
of over IS,GOG feel, eil which are the sou roe- of great rivers, tin-
Ah-i-l)i/ on the north, (ho Karim and Zeude-li itud 1 * 3 and their
confluent s on the south-east; and their intervening vidlevs, From
11,000 to @ 1 000 feet in average elevation. This is Ifakhtkri Land
projjer, Here* in a mw en ig&puf which unites all the elements of
natiLtiil grandeur,—snowy cmgs, rugged hi]I n, mountain meres, a
rushing toneaU mid profound ravines,—are the ijt x links nr slimmer
quart ere of the tribes* There is hut little cctliivalion; the people
aw poor; pasturage is Ihu sole source of livelihood; and in the
winter months snuiv 3 it-- do ply and clu^e- the par-ea against
the outer world. Secondly corner a series of plateaux, mountain
volleys, and elevated plums from 2,000 to C T (KH) feet in height, which,
on the various aides, constitute a sort of glacis fcn t fie loftier ranges.
These lower haunts are either inhabited at! the year rimml, or rite
the winter report of the nomads. They art- richly watered, and
very fertile. On the nnrrh-east. immediately adjoining Barujfrct, is
the district of Silaklior. Next, almost; from BtLnijird to lafidmru
extends a plateau 200 tulles long by from 10 to -j 0 in width* which
includes the district of Feraidon. Here juv many Georgian and
Artnrnmn families the fanner Mu^ulinims, the latter Chris! ian*,
whose Qiicefito™ arc reported to have been moved hither by Shah
Abbas in 1G14-15, To the south-east of this plateau, on the
Isfahan mde, lies the region of Chehov Mahal or Four Districts, again
dotted with Anneuhin villages, living peaceably under Raklitiaii

1 The nwaciag li hiving river. 1 jlui mit, howwi-r, confident tlmt Hii» U the
risal drriviuliili, The ohlm PerKinJ: wtiUta hum Zundpb Rud r t.o -OhsU JUrtr/
LnXer on it Wh* culled frfliuleb ur l^ndeli, Lp. LHog, a nompikrljiturp wdik'li \*
by Hafii in his pirit» : »Although gonddl lltul bn *the venter of ]lh ; r
yri is our Shinn belter ih-m JrfahEo/ Other writer* IkiTt %min Bari, or Gtiden

frum the iijimi@ of emo of Sir ixLrcnt ftmmiux, Thn muta now Eli rL^<r
in be /*aJeaUi l li KtuI or Ufo-j^vitig Him r, which b explained in |Eu.' Jeh it tk \eauili
of HajE KMlIi.h ^ ifguiTyin}; the + fim that live* again* 11 twcaojc, If anywhere
innuroepu-d Iti li* ii troika forth anew with vigour.

3 In the north - won i h a mult Inkt+atthe f«i of the gtnHdnmKqh(L« Ciuuei
Mountain, from it* fthnjM), w hich wus dk.Pi«nd by Major Sawyer In w$q m d

ruuiM^i fay him Lake Imn». In iha ioutlnswt ant ib« twin-inki m

Cproperly SnLejutJp and th,- Ue af ChiglAlior, Which rlmiq to t | ie Kuma L , OP
E:mm. Tim rlcmtEuQ of Hit^e lafcu 1- S,000 ftact, Tliey cm- tarmml bv thr
mating tfitown of spring and arc iwaally dry Iti tire sitBUiipr and miximu '

bakhtiari country.

■ ■

• *

•*

- ' ‘

' 1

> ■

* *. 1

— *

[

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the :au;‘ffl-wES®BSW provides

ml#. 1 Hum tli of the main range tire the similar elevated valleys of
Mai Amir anti Kulrh-i-Ttil. It is n lowly eountiy and well suited
U.i every requirement of nomad exigence* Its inhabitants can
nccoiniiiudate their Wet to the climate, choosing, according to the
season of the year, any elevation frem 2,000 to 12,000 feet. 1 On
the hill slopes there is more timber than in any part of Persia with
the exception of the Caspian provinces. Oak, ash ? ralnut, plane,
elm, poplar, willow, ilex, beech, wild rose, briar, hawthorn, maple,
wild hg. vinCj hopi and nlmoruL have all been found in the Bnkh-
ti&ri hills. To tlu- same camps or spots in the mountains come
every year iii the summer the same families or clans, their peculiar
haunt* Wing marked by white atones, which the tribal code forbids
to move or to tmUg&s&, Before they start in the Autumn they
sprinkle the seed in tile cultivable places ; and on their return in
the spring find a thirfcy-foid and gratuitous harvest.

What has Wen the history of tbi* interesting country and
people ? Of the mystery of their origin I have previously spoken.

From the earliest dap we read of this mountain counfciy
hiutoij ^ a ^£I<J aud inaccessible region, inhabited by uncouth
and formidable triWs. They set at nought the authority of the
.Medea and Persaus; they deled Alexander,’ and provoked Autio-
chns. 1 The invading Arab* found them n hand nut to crack.
Between the twelfth and fourteenth centuries, however (1155 to
142A . 1.0 ). we find n powerful Mussulman dynasty, known ns the
Fasluyah, ruling the Bakhtin ri country frrun Isfahan to Sbushier
under the title of Atabpgs, Their stronghold was the mountain
fastness of Mtiugasht. and their winter quarters were at Idej near
Mai Amir, I bn Bai&itih, the Moorish pilgrim, tm veiled through
ih<-ir dominion about 1330 aj>., and left the following testimony
to its good governance:—

1 then travelled (i,c- alter leaving Tostrur or $hunlltief) for three
days over high mountain** and found in every stage a cell with food,

1 Kadi village oisnUihii it* priest ami U* ™xar t or cb arch—a mad building
niMulLimi.'il aqgaldB, bat kuiie or 1™ embclliriiHl within. The amicable jaiia,-
pas it km of Arti^nUni ami hfikhttoris in thla part o£ Ptmhi jnetetiL* a strife Eng
conlrmat tn tlii- <ait-mnd-dr«!T iu-jci-^- n.ce- of Sic*tr-.riani and a* depleted in m^

ahagm-r on e ti« Xonh-wesi l^rovSnee*.

: W.‘ Firi? Import ibl/ reminded of Isaiah ihx. \*: H Their pfutort!* gliall Ita in nil
high place*, Till y JihnE not hangar nur thirst, neither siml\ tile kjo nnr hm<
rttnits them 5 fur he tluit hash mercy <w theia hIlmIJ l«ul Uictn, cren by the spring*
iif wrU rr ahull be guM-e thom_*

1 Qii3 at a# Curt Stw, lib. t. cap liL

* Flln^ till, y 1 o»p, ssL

I, HjirT Ljimt

Rfl-'Vlbuuii. lhJU

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tv 1 ^P«MbIkj-5
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fltll. IW!>

uno

Ul_UU rurt

Sin AllHini

-Mal AHilctJp

ISi-ITIXJUTAVIJ

H.yUt'CUAITJLPD

BiinnAn.'iTAAD |

PinitAi

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maior 11 P_ h 4 1-1 1

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DESABtlrt

5'r^tfir^iirn £>/ ^ {iAqlu iTn&ts

BAA □n.ULWAX’D

Duuaej

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titaiufc

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f Bn™™™ 61 Inai nil ftliitiR,—aalth^U^ |t*ri nnL v?„„ i a* , .

J SaLtrrbLp, riaoi LLiuar. ElianE, M™Jj£±T*Ur*r l£ji ^feSra?' m ™ bl ^ a****.

mmm (isao-sm*

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or flitwitjn ioj ma Tube*— omluiufi.

iLnwtEnHHi. LBStr

1 hr Jltxlr* 1841

IjljwJ* JUil

t^ir, lean-

Jfom

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Fftlriu

.-iLLiU U>£mM

Kbftltl
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7~f ^

Uo Bth-lraiiWII.V
tike Hmil)

for the iw; coni illwliit id II of tmvcllem 1 then cuno to the city ldhnj,
which belong to the Sultan Atnhek Afra®ab, The country is wiled
h! Lor. ft abounds with high nmuntiiins, nml lias muk cut in the
[•neks. 1 The cm tent in length is seventeen days’ journey, in breadth
ten. Its King sends praam* to the King of Irak, and sometimes
comes to see him. In every one of the -tutions in tlii- nmntry there
nre cUh provided f„r the religiona, enqoirore, and trovelUr*and for
cvf‘17 one who Arrives there are breach felt, and sweetmeats. I
travelled for ten days in this country over high mountains, with (on
other religions. Having lltiiahed thn districts belonging to this King,
on the tenth tiny we entered those of laphiihnn,*

'lliree centuries later we have the witness of Chardin, whose
words might be taken ns strictly iipplieuLla to the present day—an
indication of the slow foot with which Time marches over the more
remote spots of the earth’s surface : —

The peoptn that inhabit Lour-Eatom (i.e. Luristan} never mind the
building cities, nor have any titled abodes, but live in lent*, for the
most part feeding their flocks and their herds, of which they have u. L

, A * 3?° T" * thm ™* «' arrJ ^“"^V.knswnasthnJaddelo

L-Alabe^r, or Bah'l-tallla&l, Which run frnaiShaditor.OmT the Bnlthtfarf iiHjuurain-i
lo Isfahan (rvir Sr.hln.llor in the Journal . f Mr 11, At, Sm. Tile raiuntij

of .hi, gwat wen, «. «m ririhie «, the hanks of the Z

of hihI on thn tsffittrtailiu «1 htc Uni Amir. U utlh, however in utl

probability no work if thn Atataga, but may with greater likelihood bo refcrrcl

wiaZ" ? f ' ** cminw^lT identified it

with the rtfjM*{ *.■>&„, Cf tiwM Ladder road. CiiceantcreJ bv M ,., ‘ ,

Alewuiilttf (Oiod. SCttotu, MbvrL tmn * fy, * pfl-T i,^ ^ ^ \

“rs..... jSStSUx^S; ^:

K **"* f*™** bj Itcv, a. L«x cup, viU j,|, 37-8.

THE SOL'TH-WESTEUN PROVINCES

38A

infinite number. They ura governed by n K.iau wins is sot over Vm by
tile King of Persia, but chosen from among themadvea, uutl for the
iiiust part all of till? iirniot moe, the father succeeding the son. So ihnt
there still remains among them some shadow of liberty ; however,
they pay both Tribute and Tenth* This province furnishes Isfahan
ami the ndghbaoeiog |mrts with Cnttel, which is the reason that the
Governor of thorn is greatly inspected in those parts. 1

In the detiming days of the Stifavi dynasty. Krntanalri rilso
t—tifii fl ro the cliangdessness of things Persian when lie speaks of
a policy of disunion as being practised among the * Lonmin and
Mncktilarinns, muj as haring been inherited from Shull Abbas,
‘ " li > started equal factions in every city, m order to maintain the
sovereignty of the crown .’ 7 It is with no surprise, therefore, tluit
we rend, in the pages of If an wav. that when the Afghans appeared
outside Isfahan in 1 t '2-, though Koalfit Khan Bidthtiari placed
horsemen in the Held, he was cosily defeated by Hn* in¬
vaders. Soon after, the Turkish Kasha of Mosul thought to take
advantage of the general disorder by invading the Bokfatiari
country. This be successfully accomplished; but he was uot more
able to hold it Than imy previous invader, and presently bent a
retreat, Nadir riludi made flic same experiment, and conquered,
hm did not subdue. He also tried, but without success, to
transport large numbers of the tribe to Khurasan. They fought
tljb-ir way bade again. Mon? wisely he enlisted large numbers of
die Ha kb Haris in lug army, who acquitted Themselves with great
bravery at Herat find Kandahar. Upon his death in 17 IS, we an*
confronted with the short-lived spectacle of a Haklitkri chieftain
an the virtual occupant of fhe throne or Persia. Iicshid Khan, one
I lie ruling Hakhtiuri family, being at Isfahan nt the time of the
tyrant's assassination, seized a large treasure and fled to his
native mountains, from which hi- soon returned with his elder
brother. Ali Mardrrn Khan, at the head of a Lur host. Isfahan
wn * tfckeu ? a p°ppe* sovereign, the nephew of Shah Sultan Hracin,
was placed upon the throne with the title of Shah Ismail III.;
Kerim Khan Zn-nd ju-f.-d at iyK 7 or minister; hut the real power

l 7 f ‘ the ****** of i»i the Regency, AJi Martian Khan

wlm. ns cotaninnder-in-chief, controlled the army. The inevitable
conflict resulted in the assassination of the agi-d Bakhtwri chieftam

1 GrmMiHm qf m I/I. r p. ijj

: Hlttwf *f tie Jlftvhtfiam* JVrtiv, pp_ j(

VOL, It.

PEESIA

2*H)

in 1751. Later in the century Aghn Mohammed Khan , nut hi Hans
t< 1 fortify hi- rising fortunes, essayed a campaign in 1735 against
these formidable mountaineers. He wns not* more successful thnn
IXftilir hart boon : and during the rent of his reign left the Bakht tails
wisely alone. Tel the early yews of the present cenlary, Asad
Khan, of the I In ft Laug tribe, defied the Persian Government r raided
up to the walls of Teheran, and when pursued took refuge in hi?
i mp regnable hill-fort of the Dir. near Shiushter. Ultimately, how¬
ever, he sonvudciTd to Mohammed Alt Mirza, the son of Path Ali
Rhahp and made Me peace with the Government. At this thrift
(1810) Morier calculated the Bakhtiuris as possessing MM),o0o
far 11 ilie- 3 an albeget 1 i>?r extravagain eatminte. A Iii.i le later, whe 11
British officers appeared in Persia to drill tb< native troops, a ilnve
of 3,000 Buklit-inris was raised and placed under Major Hurt, who
found them orderly and tractable in their relations with him,
though insubordinate and rontemptiioua towards Persian officer^.
Subsequently, Dubonnet, the Frenchman, also commanded a
Bakhftiad regiment. A curious -tory is resisted by Colonel Stuart
and Lady Sind l nf m Englishman who, in about. 1830, having been
captured by some Bokhtiari brigands, became domesticated and
married among them* taking the name of Dervish Ali, and living
as a Moslem. Iu placets of time, having grown tired of eavage
life and of his Bakhtiari bride, he sold her for 11 jackass, which he
rode to Trebizond, and embarked 1 hence for IiIh native countn.
having turned 11 few shillings ini the speculation. Lady $he\] say*
that he kept a diary ■ if so, it is to be regretted that this has never
been given to the world.

We now come to a time when, jealous of the power of a great
Bakhtinri chieftain, the Persian Government once again made a
resolute attempt to desert its authority in the Lnr moun-
\ :U ^* tain^; and when, owing lo the accidental presence of an
Englishman, Sir U, Lay ad, iu thesu regions, we have for
the first time presented to ns, in vivid and con tern poraneotii pre
traitnre, a page of Bafebtmri history and life. The two principal
subdivision* of the Bakhtiari tribes had for long been the Hnft
Lmig (Seven Feet) and Chdrar Lang (Four Feet), According to
the popular account, current among the people thamaelvea,
the whole tribe originally migrated from Syria under a single
chieftain, one of whose defendant* left upon his death two families
of seven and four sons respectively, the struggle between whom

Tin: SOUTli”WESTE RS NiDWSCliS

291

for the supremacy originated a tribal division iJint lias lusted ever
fiincMi. According to another account, the numbers of seven and
four represented the respective scales of militeiy contribution in
bygone day^ the Haft Lang, who weft- always the poorer and more
nomadic section of the tribe, hping taxed in the proportion of one-
seventh of thorn property, while the Chehai* Lang, who [jessses^ed
villages and agricuhoml wealth. were assessed upon a quarter of t heir
possessions. However this imiy be. a bitter enmity had from early
tune? existed between the tribes* for which a perhaps sufficient
ivjik> n was to be found in the fact Hint some of their pfi&turea over¬
lapped, am] that they crossed ouch either white moving from their
winter to their summer quartets. Between the years i8*0-10,
one Mohammed Tafci Khan, of the Kumim tribe of the Chrinir
Lnii^ subdivision^ and a lineal descendant of Reshid. the brother
of AH Manhin Khan, before mentioned. rose by his own eminence
and abilities to a commanding position among the Bukhtinri
peopl es. !■> fart tog as chief of his own <?1 mi , he was present 1y red >g-
nised os head of the Juniki (lit, dtiwaniki) Garmdr t ft larger (riba]
unit, which as a rale carried with it the supremacy of the entire
Chehar Lang, At Ms prime bin sway was likewise acknowledged
by many of the Haft Lang Rnkhtmri?, and by some of the tVili k
am] Knhgeln Lars, This was the jMiwerful and remarkable chieftain
whom Mohammed All Shall, thirsting fur military renown, deters
mined to snbdne; and of whose individuality and misfortunes so
affecting a picture has been drawn by the pen of LsyardJ

Mohammed Taki Khan was ma of those men who exist to show
that primitive surroundings and a wild existent can stilt develop
Muhmin. a ideal both of statesmanship and in an! toed, A
Eg™ bmve warrior, an excellent Fwordsmftn. shot, and horse¬
man, abstain ton- in bin private life. alfablo and humane
in hifl public relation!?, liVw ml^minded in political views, and
possessed of no common abilities, ‘be had a very noble air. and
waa the bau$ ideal of a great feudal chief.' His policy was much
in advance of what might have been exjiected from hh euv iron-
men t. He sternly repressed brigandage encouraged settled as
against nomadic existence attempted colonisation on u large scale,
fostered t rade, and vu keenly in sympathy with Layard’s proposal*

1 U&r Jdiir.w4l flf thf RGS,. voL stvi. pp< S a li>, 47-9, and forty At/nxtum,
pp, S71-fi, rt Compare Al5d 2 {Bjr> H, nawtluMD, Jtmntai pf the ti.o.S

vol. Ex. P- 104; and Burun C. A. Bo Bod e, Tmrth in Litrtihu i* vlyI, it. pp. 7*MM-

PKII&LA

for opening up the BnkEtinn mountains to Briiish commerce* Hv
hm tribeRiu^ti, whom tsr- rainl with a fair hand and from whom m
collected an equitable regime. h-- was resp+jcted and IjelomiL He
wielded fhe power of life and death, and could cunuaudi :l well-
armed force of lQ,t.HJO to 12.inm men. including 2*WI to 3,000
horsemen. Besides ruling bi^ own and other kindled tribes/ he
hold Shunter, on cl had great in H Hence in Bizful: he firmed Bam
Hormuz from the government of Pars; he Iwitieonupifld Btihbehnn,
and once toot Hawizeh; bn replaced 0 Kn + b Sheikh in Fellahieh.
Already a J'-rsmn army* in which J taw! in son was an officer, hod
marched againit him In 18 ^ but bad received Ills submission-

tALEH4’TL + L

The Shah s however, waa jinloua both of his power and of his
rumoured[wealth* He Wes again declared ytyAf, l.e. in rebel lion a
in \$Ui; and an army under Muimebeher Khun, the Motemjed-ed-
1 inwleh, who in the Government of ]sfali ei 11 bud acquired a re¬
putation for merciless *e verity, marched into l he Ikkhthkri hills m
Id41. The incidents of the campaign liave been related by
Utyanl. and slum id he read as affording cm excellent ill u stmt km of
Persian tactics ill civil warfare, The family of tin* chieftain wore

1 Thi- light or ^ohimnujd Tflki Kkui to the litlc of JlkbatiJ Ifl dl§f*lt*3 by thn
U ift Ijm% nil*, wins Imk upon hh jurirt of amuicaoy els the usurpation of a
JiRiriptivfl which nppeflnins to lln:rn.

TJ1E SOUTll^VESTEKN PftOVINCBS

seized by an act of ill-fa it li: lie himself togk refuge with the Ka K b
Sheikh Thame^ btif was persuaded u> surrender to the Mote tried
upon a guarantee of safely >\\om uprm the Koran. Thfcs too-
familiar device of Persian government was successfuL The hem
wsis seized, cast into chain * 7 ttud carried off to Teheran, where he
iliecl in imprisonment in 185) + His brothers amd isons were either
killed or experienced a rim Liar fate. With the removal of Moham¬
med Taki Khun, the fortunes, of the Che liar Lang suffered eclipse,
and have never since revived. Some member of the same family
has usiudlY remained in occupation of Knleh4,TuL the head-
quarters of the chief; and I present a photograph of the fort and
it* inmates un they appeared in 18JK)* 1 The present heat! of the
tribe is Ckiragb AH Khan, who married a daughter of the Haft
Lang lLkliunL Hnseln Kali Klmn. and is therefore* IjrothiT-indaw
to the present Ilhegi, Mcndinr Khan. Appended, too t U n pedi¬
gree of the ilfchanisdynasty, which 1 have compiled from a number
of sources.

After the fall nf the Ghelntr l^ang chieftain. She Halt Lang
regained their supremacy, which has never since been disputed*
The Hifi Jsitir Kuli Khan, sun of the Asad Khan whom 1 have before
I,,n ^ named, was recognised as Ilklmnl by the Motemed ; ami
if pre-eminence in crime were considered a qualification for leader¬
ship, he certainly deserved it. To attain the position, he had
already slain fourteen of his relatives, including Ids own brother.
Like his father^ when engaged in hostilities with the Persian
Government—n position int« ■ which he soon drifted—he withdrew
to his impregnable stronghold of the Diz. where he- was unsuccess¬
fully beriegeeh Liter he tejok to [light, and was succeeded by
Kelb All Khan of the ihifuki tribe* who also possessed a famous
I that, along with its fellow phenomenon, will presently be
described. About the year J W5U. taweyer T the son of Jifir, Htisein
Kuli Khan* began to assert his authority' over the tribes. He slew
Kelb All Khan, and rapidly gained a predominance, which for
thirty years remained nncoutested, and rendered him a worthy
successor to Layard s taro and patron. He was tx man of com-

1 EiWj-i-Tul Ls& liu^e slotac JiUkI mud-’hrLr.k £ort H boitl upon n tejw, or mound
HbuUt 100 ficl hfgljL, J n a plain #0 tui It* t*ie l *A Sliushi e r. Tliti furt ia a ^ [unx©
with five lowcn, arid \m IhmU Eh two licnt. Id the interior it ^mtoim- two courts,
.init woutd bold a ^brrk^i. A of mud but* diistcA a! the foot

of the dhplhmJ. anil lfr> black teats of the mimad* ary pitched ttmund,

PERSIA

islanding appcsimucc and character, nod ruled Jiin followers with an
iron hand* ] jikcs his prototype he suppressed brigandage, nmde
the caravan trucks safe, built raruvai>$£nu$. construe It'd roads, nnd
wns willing to enfer into ivlitions with British merchants for the
opening up uf fchf route between Isfahan and ShtmhfofJ Individual
pre-eminence, however, has never been very ttife in Persia ; and
least of all under a cent ml ia tug nd ministration like that of the
present monarch. In June lliisem Knli Khan, who had

I. Kclixg Family or the Caumt Lang ( Klmfizij.

KAMA* Km*

A L\ IUjUUl* K li A*. On 1 IhuJ U

tal S » Ur 4 Lull, l?*H r biarvUvl
ii-'- JfcOtfwfl, anil rmlsti
IwimLhiillj rtA Veseisnisl-^f-i II-
eW. TirluMlJr u kin^r, m lip
mitllhiUttf?*!

Hi Mlili KMjl* Ai l SaI-KU KlU>

_J!i_

Au Kmsr. IIIIuilU

r-HimlnJ j.eii] ib|HM-<L

DkdI?H?

Uaais Rea*. JUcIuulL (k>
Ir.-ijn,! AU Khim Up Fall) A Li
Sktfa, wjufe iowceilid him.
KlrhO t.j ilDtmra.n -31 Tail
KIujj,

M* isn U V| t Et T.AET Jtl! 4TS.

mtna! rire.M** 4 iML th-
p&tftif ] r41 Ehn3 in cjjm-
Mt r ut Ttlu™, l»l

1 -Vltf atlirr*

Au liFTi*. KjIU£ + §T3CTi>-Ii I Tfcifitf Gllitifl
U T, SlknnL Sflnniruil

ll'i U:\rA tiSL !n- Iji IHTTp

llnmix Krr.x Ceuv,

LKihS Ifi lit

TVhnmn, t*al

Xtu.ft EijwS

T w hhw*

MrhiA AipJIji Kilas.
iVaraLririi IlkJi.uil until
h_y UL«
brolbrn in liwfl

N-t* 1 it K11 a * 5 mjp ALuu Kjjii *>

t>.IIU II K N IjJi IT’

f-nirii ftl KflldE OTciS
tm im, Mn^thiMi
HW

Emit** Kojm EiiAW*
□ nmuor nf Kowt

not lon^ previously entertained the Zil-es-Siiltan in refill style in
his native mountains, was invited to Isfahan ; mid was there either
Strangled or poisoned by order of his princely host. The /il-es-
SliIkui thrown the responsibility ujion the Shall, The Shah was
probably aware of, even if be did not actually command, the deed,
Siiindtanootuty, lafendiar Khan, the eldest bob, of the murdered
mail, thrown into prison, where Im remained fornix year?. Tile
entire series of events was profoundly characteristic of Pomun
policy in its attitude towards the nomad tribes.

' Ile rrctdral, with rtpn mirk of forrnir. Mr. G- MiVCkunrie, of ik> firm of
Gmv, I’aul, & CO, in 16 Tf. ami |[«Sj Geo. Schindler in JsiJ . w i Cantata Wells
u»i Mr, [taring (of the Teheran Litton) to lg®l r

THE SKJUTH-WESTERN PROVINCES SflS

There are three official past* associated with the leadership of
the Bakhtiiiri tribes; unci those, although never conferred upon tiny
Tin Luliaff ^didate who is not a member of the ruling family, tire
both salaried by. and in the gift of, the Shah—at once a
fruitful source of bribery and an indication of the extent
To which the Crown baa succeeded in vindicating its prerogative.
They ure the offices of Ukhtmi or Chieftain, Ubegi or Second m
Command, and Hu hi in, or Governor, of Chebar Mahal. The latter,
although not a tribal rank per is closely bound up with tribal
politics, inasmuch as the ruling family are the principal landed
proprietors in the district concerned, After the na&kssiiintion
of Hu&ein Kuli Khan, bis next brother, Imam Kuli Khan, wifl
appointed Ilkhani in his place, while a third brother^ J^jsia Ku3i
Khan, became Ilbegi ; other member* of the family were kept at
Teheran as hostages. With the fid3 of the Zil-es-Sulton, however,
in February 1888, came another turn of Fortune's wheel. Men*
diat Khan, son of the late llkhani, was released from confinement:
and taken under the Shah s protection. His uncle, Imam Kuli
Khan, was deposed, Ueza received his placo^ and tsfendinr that of
Itbegi. Upon the disgraced llkhani refusing to evacuate hk posi¬
tion, the aueqe^fu] rivals, with the aid of Persian troops, marched
against him, fell upon him following at Chnghkhor. and compelled
him to fly, I&lendinr emerged from the combat the bearer of the
ornamental title of Samejmi^-Sukanehp or Sword of the State.
Theexi-ting arrangement was then confirmed, but only remained in
operation for two years. In Ibftojnsfc after my visit, all three
duels were ordered up to Teheran, and at No Husd {March 21), when
nil offices are either renewed or change hnuds. the wheel described
yet another and a backward revolution, inasmuch as Imam Kuli
Khan was reinstated, as llkhatH, Isf-iidJur remniiung Dbeglj while
lleza breamv Governor of Chehar Mahal. Such lb the frhiiigTxIflr
arrangement that still prevail*.

Though outwardly friendly, the triumvirate is st«cre% divided,
and the present modi** rh&ndi is destitute of any stability* The
Chumur two uncles are separated by nge T temperament, and tnidi-
* ndEljdjlIE tion from the nephew, who carrier frith him the sympa¬
thies of his people. Imam KuJi Khan, the present chief, ls a man
of sixty-eight years of age. He k variously known as the Hajs
llkhani, from having made the pilgrimage to Mecca soon after hia
first accession to i>0iee T and as El Knirdnikltf) or the Unfortunate,

FEK&IA

from tilt* v id Etudes of hih eventful career* With same of bis
subjects lie es popular, bfflRg regarded ns considerate find juat. and
he produced & favourable' impression upon (^okmel Dell In 1SB>L
But his history ho* left its mark a pun Ills character no less than
upon hie cooiitexiaiice T and distrust mat suspicion are written cm
both. As 11 khan i be receives an annual salary of l/KM) iomtm* or
28M/.. and pays a tribute to the Shah which m calculated at about
two iomti.tL* per household Wm brother, Iteza, who is five years
hia Junior, pays 5,7001, ;l year as farm-money for Chchnr Mahftl,
and is reported to be nvtmdotis and mean. Though he was a
partisan of liis nephew in 18S8, the two lire not now an spooking
terms. H in son is $&rtip of the Bakhtiari force that is maintained
in their native hills- Isfobdinr Khan has not passed unscathed
through the ordeal of his earlier year*, ilia father^ sunnier and
his own imprisonment have not rendered him mi admirer of the
powers t hat be, while the spectacle r>f others tilling the place which
he is on tilled and qualified to occupy himself, scarcely tends to
mitigate the sentiment. Ho is still, however, :i comparatively
young man, and, mi]ess the Persian Government be contemplating
any fresh wiles, is likely before long to become the dejure ruPr of
hit people. The physiognomies of the three chieftains arc not
inadequately portrayed in the adjoining illnstmtion. The pedigree
wliicli I have drawn up. and which has been out to Persia for con¬
firmation., gives furl her particulars of the ruling family- Once
annually the triumvirate meets in conference at Obaghkhor to
settle the tribal a flairs Ibr I lie ensuing year. During the past
summer (1391), 1 have not beew surprised to hear that hostilities
have again broken out. But so far they do not appear to have
involved a direct rupture of the official fifth**

One result of the continued ascendency of the Haft Lang chief¬
tains has been to bring the bug-standing feud between the old
c»ul.-. : av tTl ^ divisions to an end. The Chchar Lang ruling
et in)** house is now united by marriage to the llkhanf* family
and the tribal camping-grounds having ceased, to a large extent, to
be distinct, there remains less ground for quarrel. As n^garda the
sub-divisions and clone of the Baklitinri Lur* f 1 have drawn up & com¬
parative tabic, show ing their names and numbers at different priods
in the past hatf-contiiry, Three previous lists have been published
—by Hnwlim-un in 18 ^ 6 , by Be Bode b 1341 T and by Layurd
in 1844. In pond tel columns with these I have placed a catalogue

Ii v; ■

IF. rirujiii 1’nm.v w the II An I mm. (BAjnrrtAiiw.vM> IIaij'akwamm.

Til K SfiOUTH^VESTKlSN ViMlSCKS

L!' 7

AML—Tiki- iLiuulwv *|'l i-mliil in jjmnstimm to Um hail.™ m- Itw tit Uip ponhi Iji l@*3<

208

PERSIA

that was furnished to me in 1881* by the Bukhtiiiris themsfelves,
and an independent! catalogue which whs supplied from similar
source to a friend in 18DO. It will be Beau that in the lapse of
time a great many duns have disappeared-—a fate which, consider¬
ing the internal feud-S by which the tribes were for sso 1 mg anndfired,
can excite iio astonishment-. The present assessment of Baklitiarl
Land, paid by the ilkliEini, is 22,(H)0 tonutut to the Governor of
Isfahan„ and 15,000 /omcn-t* to the Governor of Arabia tan.

In winter the Khans and their people an* to be found encamped
in the plains about fthushtcr and DiafbL In J S81 the llkbam
w |ki ] was encountered by Colonel Bell at Ab-i-BSA, between
□n»n«r thme two places* In spring and autumn, Le. in the
'|iirtrU'j-* transition period I*jtWdCH the extremes of cold and heat,
their headquarters are at Archil in the south-east portion of the
Bnkhfinrl momttd.ni, There, at the height of G*OGO feet, the
JEkKinui possesses an unpretentious, two-storeyed building, adjoining
n fortified tower, and now' falling into decay. When the summer
suns begin to bura T the nomads move still higher into the moun¬
tains, and encamp on the loftier slopes from Barajird to Isfahan,
The hendquartere of the Tlkhuni are then at C'haghkhor, 1 near
Ardal, but 2,000 feet higher, where, in u mountain valley containing
a sun all lake, a fart was built, upon a mound 100 feet high, by
Huseii] Knli Khun. In hie days it was u smart and pretentions
residence, being fitted with European chairs, couches chandeliers,
mirrors, and pointings* 1 Since the fall of its founder it has itself
fill on into ruin and has also been much shaken by earthquakes.
At -i distance of twenty mile?, hpwera% in the* direction of Indian,
the llkhani possesses a modem county-house at Pivradumbu,
elegantly laid out and furnished ; u reminder of the extant to w hich,
under the influence of frequent visits to the capital, these nomad
chieftains have succumbed to th-* inroads of civilian “ion. Tliev
themselves take up their abode either in the buildings or in pavilions
pitched below + Around are scattered the black tents of the tribes¬
men.

I have spoken of the lives of the chiefs; let me aiy something
about that, f their people. Pasture is. their chief occupation, sheep

1 7 fa- aiims b v Sl r;■>!i-ly dcri\ ed from t'hncrh *Klmr (HlUof Vzl^ .un^i ) r Clut^n]*-
hot {Bill iif ctiEi Sui] ) r und Jih4»Akbur {ch* I’loca of Horsi.*, of Pailii«lk> H

3 Then be wj|f« vLaiti iI by Stuck in |*$l (.VI j- hi Prr*ia m ml. li.

fi]f. SSk-Tl), and lib «hcc4 t?QThj Br*. tttehnp in JH'jQ {Jimnwiu in JWd, val, t

j-i. sisy

THE SOUTH-WESTERN PROVISOES

3 »

4 lhlI cows the principal source of wealth. Of the Former there are
estimated to be 3&O t OQO in the BakMinri mountains. Blit little
trade is conducted by the nomads except the supply ol
Lfl' Inir mutton to the Mnlmn market and the growth of tobacco
in the plains towards Shush ter and Dizful. A scanty
mi-plus of grain is .iomnLimef exported, but the bulk disuppearB in
home consumption. In former days the chiefs kept lurge studs oi
horses, and the Bukhthuri breed gained a repute that has not yet
perished. These animals., which are of a mixed stock with a strong
strain of Arab blood, are admirably adapted to the country, being
nimbkv sure-bx.hd, ami enduring | but their number has greatly
diminished, and the tribe could no longer turn out, as in the days
iif Mohammed Tnki Khun, a cavalry contingent of several thousand
iucii. Moles are not now retired or kept by the Bakhtin ris, except
for transport purposes, but they have n line breed of donkeys* the
hulk of the tribesmen am very poor, and in their black tents will
be found neither gold nor si lver. but vessel ^ only nf iron and copper*
The re is next to no ed ucation, except among the fnirulicH of I lie
chiefs, who sometimes keep a In the settled villages Lite

parish mullah acts an a sort of self-constifuttM achoplmaster but
hit- attainments and curriculum are equally narrow. Outwardly
and Ly hereditflty descent the Hakhtioris are Mohammedans, but
they care little for Koran or Prophet, scofl at mullah* and wtjid*,
and have tto mosques. Tin- shrines of piV* h or departed saints, are
an object of attention and. pilgrimage, and each stone added to the
little commemorative piledignities a vow fuHilled ora prayeruttered*
Nevertheless the Bakhtaaris am not without u crude and simple
faith of their own, They an- believers alike in the existence and
in the unity of Hod^and entertain element ary notions of Hen ven
and Hell, of a future life, and of n judgment day, Tlieir burial
places are usmdly located on low mounds* tnifenced. A rough-
hewn lion, wheriNiti a tv hculp-d in rude imagery the sword, musket,
dugger t powder-flask. and cirtridge-l»lt of the dcceaaod, marks the
tribesinan's grave* 1 Their character presents a strange combination
of dignity and licence. For. on the one hand, they are modest,

* fr>rjr, hi the se™tccnth century ( TtarrU, p_ wtilh UAd la PiDfUili th*% this
wwj nf rn IfcwL an n torn bate On datn^l oth* who hml daetl hi the (tlTOgth ol
|]i- Age-, Oumpore Uw Inlo rented by frill 40) of thy Tbqb&Ji* who

told perished In JiaUle Philip, zm\ wbowr gTBi-fci Wltc smirked by & Item to

jellify tbdr Iwiciiin.

J’KttMA

800

though .self-contained, an deportment, obedient rind hospitable,
loyal to family and tribal ties, and wholly free from the abominable
vices of the Persians. On the other hand, they are savage when
excited, particularly in the pursuit of blood feuds, which are per¬
petuated from generation to generation, until sometimes entile
families have been extinguished, and (me adroit and incurable
thieves. There is out u traveller amongst them who ha* not spoken
wilb suffi ring admiration of t heir dexterity in the latter respect,
f .0111 StiOCqueler in Itfal to Mrs. Bishop in To the denizen

of at ies their bearing presents a refreshing contrast to that of the
urban Persian, Smooth rascality finds no place here, but in their
character and mien is the free treath of their nat ive hills.

Alik.) in costume and complexion, darkness is the prevailing
hne of the external man. Their hair is black, with its two long
.j y-r- ,inetl1 tnf\9 curled behind the ear, blade their Imshy eye-
brows mid Hushing eyes beneath, black the beard and
moustache, black the small skull-cap upon the head, black
Lite coat of the male, ami blue-black the indigo-dywl clonk of the
female. The men an robust ud muscular in appearance, anil have
a very manly bearing. They wear loose trousers and a skirted
coat. Round the waist a cartridge-licit holds the ammunition for
the Murtjni-Ppabody that is slung over the shoulder, a sword hangs
under.the saddle flaps, Q dagger mid pistol are carried in the belt.
The women ore tall and dark, of shapely limbs and erect carriage.
They are not veiled, and but little privacy marks t he economy of
tented life. Polygamy appears to l*> almost universal, oven amongst
I he poor. On tin- other band, matrimonial infidelity is rare mid
domestic happiness common, 'flu* picture drawn by Luvard of
the family tife of the Chehar hang chieftain is one of the most
touching features of his romantic tale. The women wear full
Turkish trousers, or, in the>» de siri'fo vemacular, a divided skirt, a
loose chemisette, and u shawl above all. Cleanliness, it is to be
f- ared, is little known or appreciated by the nomads, and to this
must lie attributed tlm diseases, l»tli of the skin and eye, to which
lh, y are liable. The latter ailment is exaggerated by the blinding
glare of the sun from rock and sand, and by the scant prelection
afforded by the national head-dress. 1

It is ns a horseman that the Bukhtiari has always beeu famous,

■ IIt far l!„- best iB-xPn, araMmt of I In' linhiO and belief!. of I be llukbtiimj
la to lie found in Hie tiracloM fagot. ol 3fr>. Hiahoj,.

uJiyL'* HI' II.^ICIIT] AiLEh u* Tin: ri'1-f.i: Efcta'N

THE SOL'TII-'VVESTEUN PROVINCES

301

Trained from his youth to the saddle, he is a rough-rider of tho
Mltiu _ finest type, able to fire while going at full gallop* and

pilitiM jo perform feats on horsobock I hat recall the proweffi *'1

j] le ’Western Hemisphere. He is a Hue shot, with rifle or shot gun,
particularly al short ranges; and it is to his insatiable desire to
be always letting off at something, that the great diminution in
th.' game that was once to be found in the Bnkhtmri mountains
is attributable. Fifty year* ago. 'vhett Luvnnl was there, ibex
{ fHimn g or rock-footed), mouflon. deer, gazelles, wok™, ami hours
wisre reported eis Tuinieruas* Becent travellers have discovered litt. c
wherewith to slake tin* sportsman's appetite. Such men. however,
it will readily be comprehended, a (Ton I the finest raw uiaterii.il for
troops; and, as 1 have elsewhere hinted, it is possible that in the
future the Iiakhtiari highlanders may be seen in line with European
comrades. At present they are ignorant of discipline, ami are
merely a loose collection of capable units. Nominally, tihe Shrdi
claim* the right to levy one horseman and two font-sold lets upon
eveiw ten families, in practice, there are only two mobilised
troop* or Bukbtiari horse, each lOO strong, one of which is
Stationed at Teheran. really *a ■ hostage for the good behaviour of
the tribe, rather than as an addition to the lighting strength of
Persia; the other in llieir native moantaina. Both are commanded
be scions of the ruling family; uor would the Shall venture to
wrest from them the inherited prerogative of lead. Both these
troops are equipped, mounted, and armed by the llklmni (they are
distinguishable bv a white instead of a black cap), but they are
paid bv the Studi iu the form of a rebate on the revenue duo from
the chieftain. Of irregulars, in tbn strictest sense of tbs tern,
it. is probable that the latter could put in all 8,001) to 10,000 in the

There -ire further natural features of the Bskhtiari country
which merit specification. One of the most remarkable of th.*se
i.s lit.' occurrence in the mountainous regions of natural
liill-turis hni rurih fcn(iwu m p firs ia ns >lh. These ntamgholds,

wlucb. as n rule, consist of isolated mountain or hill-tops, artificially
-carped and difficult of access, containing pasture on the summits,
and possessing natural wells or spring?, have both lent thorn reives
to and been utilised by the requirements of a semi-feudal and
turbulent mode of existence. In days before artillery was m-
ventedj they supplied an impregnable retreat to the rebellions or

outlawed chttfudru They are still formidable in a country which
does not lend itself to tlie easy transport of guna. Of these
natural phenomena the most remarkable are two in ilia neighbour¬
hood of S bushier and DkfuL The Dk Asad Khan (an called
because it was the winter residence of that chief, and subsequently
of his son. Jafir Kali KJitm), is situated sixteen fdr^akhs t or two
days’ march, north-east of Sbuiiter. Before belonging to the Haft
Lang, it was the stronghold of the itoguwi tribe, and was known
as Dh& Malakan t or Fort of the Angela, from the idea that so
wonderlnl a place could only have been rendered accessible to nmn
by favour of the heavenly powers. Lay arc! resided for several
days upon its summit and described it as a rock, Ihree miles
round, and ascended only by long ladders and hides in tbe clifl"
conducting to a lower platform, where were until m3 springs and a
collection of hula, n still higher platform being attained by nn
equally precipitous climb; 1 The second Dk, known as Dk Shahi f
or Kalehd-Piz r wo.^ in bayards time the property of Kolb Alt
Khan* before mentioned, but pushed, upon Irts death, to Ifuseln
Knli Khan. It is situated fifteen miles north-east of Dkfti],
near the Ab-I-Dii, anti consists of an elected tableland, several
miles in circumference, oo the summit of a hill, with perpendicular
sides, lhO feet sheer. A single pathway, partly hewn, partly built
out, conducts to l\m top, where arc huts, caves, springs, and good
cultivated soil. Both of these kill-forts nritr belong to the (Ikhaui
nf the Bakktiuri tribes- A tilircl end analogous dh is that of
Muugashl , which wa- the stronghold of the Atabege in the Middle
Ages, and held out for nine mouths against the Mongol Ho ink u
Khan. In the first half of this century it was the fashes nf
Mohammed Tajd Khan, and is said never to have bean taken.
Like its fellows, it consists of a rock artificially scarped to a depth
tif l&O feet, with a summit half a mile round, containing perennial
spring*, and natural Caves, capable of accommodating 1,000 men.
Similar hill-forts exist more to the south in the Mainassmn
country, notably that of Lul-i-Gulub, of Behbelum^ and the
famous I>k-i-Sefi<L which will be mentioned later on. Another
and different sort of dtz is encountered in the cafmn of Arjanuk,
in the north-west poriaou of the Bakhtiari mountains. There the
dh consists of a Humber of shallow caves piercing the pc rpen dice 1 ft r

1 Jwrirni vf fi# #.&**% ml, xrl pp, W r 17; JBbr^ Mtenfrm*, tvl iL
pji. 2A1-G 3 Dv 1k*k\ Trarrh, yqI. {. y. 3ftH,

TI1E SOFT I f-WESTERN' PROVINCES

foce of one of the cliff walls of the valley. The latest of these,
twelve feat deep by twenty feet long, is Menlcd by a Idoji-hoW
[jimiiH't, and Is only accessible by a single steep path. It. is the
pooudoti of Mihmb Khan, chief ol the IbbHII( 1 t.rilM.' ol Uakhtiari
Luts, It is ihaiueteiMtic of everyone of the natural fortresses
here described that., though iiii|ierviouu to pedestrian attack, they
could easily be shelled from opposite or acigbhOMUig eminences.
Iti modern warfare, then 1 fore, their strategic value would dwindle.

In the extreme north-east comer of the Jlakhtiari country lies
the important town of liumjird (5,100 feet), 1 The district of which
it is the centre and capital belongs, strictly speaking, to
Humj.fi jpg]^. jjjt, inasmuch as several oil' the inahul* wliicli it
contains are peopled by Hakhtinris, and ns its governor exercises
jurisdiction over a large number or the latter tribe, it is more
appropriately mentioned here. The commercial importance of the
town, as situated at the junction of routes leading from Dizful,
Kermonahali, Qamndxui, Teheran, and Isfahan, lias been pointed
out in other chapters, and must always render it a place of
importance either for trading or strategical purposes. Burujml is
a thriving resort of business, with a jwpulation of 17,000, well
situated in a valley watered by the upper springs of the Ab4 Dh.
and thickly studded with villages, whose orchards are renowned
for their fruits. It is surrounded by « rntid wall, five miles in
circumference, pierced by five gates. The chief local manufacture
is a species of printed calico, on which native designs are stamped
by means of Jmnd-dies cut in wood.

On the western limits of Bukhtiiiri hand, and on the lower
reaches of the Ab i-lfc, is situated the lees important but inte¬
resting town of Dizful. Its mime (Dis-pol, i.e. Fort or
the Bridge) is derived from the splendid bridge, doubt¬
less of Sftssamno struct arc, that here spans the stream. 11 Its lower
part is of stone, and evidently of greater antiquity than the super¬
structure. which is of brick. It is 430 raids in length, and con¬
tains twenty-two arches of varying shape and span, Like its fellow
and contemporary nt Shu-litr, it is in a dilapidated condition, twi.
of the arches having recently fnllen in, although communication
between the opposite banks is not thereby suspended ns nt
Shnshter, At a little distance upstream, a Dumber of flour-mills

■ For modem Ua-mjihl, rM* 3lre + RUfefip, tol. SE. Lullcr ui,

* Tidt 1 M. IHmlstfcj I?Art antique de U Per re t f*rt Y. Jiff. IQS-P.

3!>i

PERSIA

built on rocks and connected by frail bridges or causeways, are
turned by the currant., imd present a picturesque appearance.
DikIYI is in most respects so faithful :i counterpart of Bhusliter (from
which it is distant less than forty miles) that I a1lb. 11 dispense with a
detailed description of iri features, referring my readers to the next
chapter, wherein will ba related my own experieneen at the wistcr-
eity. 'Hie population of Dizfnl, which was once inferior to Mint of
Shustiter, is naiiil now to amount to >wer I C.00l> ? or double the
latter'^ total Both places cimtain crowds of holy but fanatical
impostors; Life and its fiPiTOundings arc much the wine in eacii;

nirrsE \*it WATW-JtiLn at oitutl

*) iko in architect are the towns tire, similar, m general negl^i- of
trade and tillage, and in contented evidence of universal and
incorrigible decay, Tliuduerlocal manufacture at IHi fail h indium,
of which there are said to be 120 factories in the town. Hut so
little has the value of the combined waterways of its own river and
of the Karim, into which the Ab-i-Di* flows further down, Ih-pu
appraised by native merchant*, that the import and export trade
of the place, .which might easily be doubled or treated in volume
is at present conducted by an overland track from the Turkish
laudiag-pbce of Amatuh on the Tigris, metikmndm being brought

Till: BOOTH-WKSTMKN PRO VINCES

up The river from Basrah. and despatched by mule caravans,
starting twice :i month for DiEfaL 1 lb the earlier part of this
century, until replaced by Sinister, it was the seat uf governnmit
of A rains Un, and u large palace was built here by Mohammed Ali
Mirm

At Djzfuf nt S hush ter, at Hnwizeh. and at Mdiammemh, nre
util! to be found a few relics of the interesting and obscure com-
^ubi itlh tnunity* known ns the Sabinas, frequently miscalled the
Christians of St. John. In former days the sectaries of
this faith were very numerous in Mesopotamia ; and in the seven¬
teenth centuty PetEa de la Croix reported 10,000 in Basrah alone*
Even in 1840 Layard found 300 lu tOQ families ib Slighter;
but in 1877 Schindler only heard of 30 families on Persian soil,
and of not more than 500 families elsewhere. These are very poor,
and are mostly employed either els peasants or as silversmith#. I
bate wtirip engraved seals of their workmanship. The greatest
uncertainty and confafiiou hare prevailed ns to the religions beliefs
of this aec% who have been alternately classified as Hebrews and
Christian!?, though widely removed from either* A still further
and more serious confusion has arisen from their nmno, winch has
caused them to be mistaken for the Sabseartfl, who were star-
worshippers mad who are mentioned a* such in the Old Testament^
tlie name of the latter f which appears in the Koran us Sabin a a)
being variously Reived from the Arabic Subtly the heavenly host^
or iSab, grandson of Enoch, who was a great prophet of that sect.
Similarly in the time of the Kbolif Miimun, a.D. &'$% the people of
Harwui, who were polytheists and star-worshippers, appear, perhaps
for the protection that it might afford them, to have assumed the
iifltne of Sabiaus, to w hich in ail probability they had no right. The
name of tbe true Sabinns is believed to be derived from the Aramaic
i Snht-rjrtu J i.e. Baptists. They cull themselves Mundid Yahini or
Followers of St, John, The latter, i.e, the Baptist, Is their chief
prophet, although they recognise the divinity of (iod, and are said
to have *uiie conception of the Trinity. They liave no chuirhes,
but water plays a large part in their ritual observance, baptism,
frequently renewed, being the principal ceremony„ while marriage
and prayer both requite the use of running water. Some uf them
employ the sign of the Cross* which Ib variously explained os an act
of symbcllam, or as a relic of a possible conversion to Christianity
* Thb ruttt^wxL.- by Mjulnmt“ ]>Lculafay Iel 1333 ££0 /Vm,ap. xxxviL),

VOL, IL I

PfiHSLt

SOts

in bvgone days. They have five Ihioks. the principal of which is
die Sidra or Book of Adorn, written in a dinlect of the Aramaic
language, with an alphabet- closely allied to the Syriac. Though
the present Sidra is post-MohaidHiedan Ln date, its language and
ideas alike point to an earlier origin. The Sabhms lire monogamous
and do not practi^- circntnciaion, but have peculiar ordinances with
regard to the eating of meat. Si sin e of them id so entertain a liAzy
belief in the gnostic idea of dualism, or a war of rival principles.
But no two travellers ever received fmrn them either a coherent or
a consistent account of their faith. In appearance nod dres^ they
lire not to l)e dMingmsbcd from the Amk among whom their lot
is cast. They only intermarry amongst themsalves; hut their
general poverty and obscurity art 8 reflected in their numerical
decline. 1

I have more than once indicated that in ancient days the whole
country which I have been describing wan the scene of greater
HiillL| population and busier life, nml of a truly nival rule,
UwpM* Evidences of bygone splendour, both of the Elamite or
Susian period, that mysterious blank space Ln history, of the
Achioiuenion times, the golden age of the Made# and Persians,
and of the later but still notable Sassmiiim apod—in each of which
Persia attained to eonsidcrabh;- grandeur—lie scattered throughout
this region from east to west, hi the neighbourhood of Dkful,
where the mountain ranges ore succeeded by the plains of Sneiaua
or Elam, occurs the moat stately of th«^e momumrnla to a vanished
order, in the .shape oF the great mounds of Shush, ar S nm,

A problem tb;it ugitat.-d ami divided the ul* of on earlier
generation, 3 and misled even so penetrative a critic m Hawlinson

1 Ftii a sdiari bJMEogrnplij ol I lie £bbJims. I may mention, in addition to tho
ilofulMd werka of D’Aurille, i’^unmn, IVHerbelot, Hyde, Jlillcr. Ik isacy,
Ficnrl, tSoblncau, llie follow Ssis*: Tnfirrnltr, bk L ill. cap* xtH.; lu|llion

Chnxdlli, vot vL pp 1345—1 GtS: £Lr. W. Ourftey. Trarel^ rol. L flpp, lIL : Dr. Wolff,
^widk, toL I. Jip. $3<M; (Kir)It. Ijiyurd. Eirip woL iLpp, l^T-4 n J71-2:

Dr IVv!e + Jhatvi*, vol, U. pp. I7S-U; Mndimi- Di^tlMoj t Xa /Vrar, p, 5-47; nnC Hit
following foamed essays - (Ju nius, .lfciwforr a 1817 ; CbwoLuolm,

mw? ISC6; NlUrlr-kOr \f\truj«rf 4rr Ma ntfarr y nod .lAiflrftj ische

tfnnwttrririJ 1 , IS7S ; iMinburph R+r*t t, July ISSil ■ Sitmlli. Ktwdn nr la rrttyiim
rfri SruMwj \m Haffitns i, Pnm, I -■#! ; ltahe]on. //| lertr Skijta&Fr H true

dfirlrine, Pirni, IP&iL Vide nisn A. H. Srhimllar, Prur. tf th? it G S. S*r. I $31.

f Amonjr llrcw wb& debalwl the Sfcm*lw u-#iL5» qirefttfon, may ht* died thr
name* of llmcler, Kinneir, Ow-j-lilj (&l. of Stmbo), Lan*, Barbie do Borage,
Hocck, D F Hert*Iot r U'AetQIo, V In coni. Ifaniwt^ Voa Hummer. A hint n%ht

TTIE SOUTHWESTERN PjtOVIXCES

307

namely* the identity of the Shushun of die ancients—natty now
be considered as deWivdy settled, Shuakter, Susan, and other
claimants have disappeared from the lists* and the site
to which I now turn ban established its ineontestable
identity* Front tbs; dawn of history Shnshan Fias- ligumj in the
pageants and combats of kings* Here, in the earliest recorded
tinsel, n Turanian people, Riled by a Semitic nobility, 1 lifted to a
pitch of irr^ai power rite independent kingdom nf Klam.* They
*F>ke the language, generally designated Snnan, which appears in
the second place m the trilingual inscriptions of the Arluuraeninu
monarch b, but which lias not yet been dempIieretL ^hushinnk wns
their capita I; about 2000 ru. Chcdor homer (Khtidur Lngamar)
was one of their most famous sovereigns. Elam w:m mgAgoi b
perpetual warfare with (he neighbouring empires nf Ikbyhinia
am! Assyria* and suffered aa much, if not mojv, injury than she
dfiilt. The great invasion of Sennacherib wn* arrested by the
winter snows of 097 but fifty years later* in 045 bx. s
A^T irbanipal T the sou and Successor of Ksnrbuddon* appeared m
triumph outside the walls of .Shuslinn f broke open the Royal
Treasure House, whence Fse carried off thirty-two statues of its
kings *of silver and gold and brotute and alabaster/ penetrated to
the Holy of Holies hi the Elamite temple and pi a i id i'rod the imago
of the national pod. upon which to look was death, levelled the
Great Tower of SliLillian, and burned the city to the ground. Such
wu^ [lie vengeance of Assyria and the ftiWif the first Shu shun. 1

wd! Imvo tfi-ym Iq^en li,y *omu of 11 1 t-ro l^nied dtapQtjuiES from [tto Sjvnbih Jrw,
Babbi Benjamin of Tuclrfa, who. having vUftfrl Sura in the c«>eu>»? (if hU iniVelfi
7W))Teaw ^iiLirki^t 1 tllr rfllWi »f thr pnwiuoi- nf Kliiml-Uin* the

M;nn i*f 5ed!plim\ n .re I hi- ruuiutn* nf Shn-hnn. thes mutropolkiimi palace of King
Adijuhivi Ldfa, which still contain^ vtry Inigi; nml bzmd-umi* hnlMifljht *>( mscient
dltf; ' ( s uL L p. 111.)

1 Thli li Pappared IO l» n-ferrrd lo in the rtpiv-t’lilftliun oF K'Ijlui a* a son ef
tfheiii m (itiioiiii i_ "J2-

1 Elnm T which H tba title found in Script m* la a Semitic vortion of the
Airauttan mmmtui, ot 4 hi^hlAndC It whh ziittrwanUcaJM fintlAai by tbe clussiraJ
wrii™ F fma ft* Shltsham nr Stum. Frofee^ir S :i yce nay* \hat Snsa nr

Swin -Tpilhotl the - oI.3 dtj,* QJad WaJ derived from jKK-tf, which cicaon* foruur"
In the SniEnn text*

4 Tlir gbaput o( Aenrtanlpiil j* dnpfctH on the Kmlptoras of Ninmh db*
rawed tp Sir II. Lnvnnl and Sir. H, Bwww. For the verdict of &rtuMwr* 4 rids
A, U. Soyo^p Cnoeiform InscdpLioofl of film nml Medfs,* Id Uv
*f JNW.-lwA, voL tii. 1S74; and J. Oppert P Twwp Oriental ttehmd

flfir/rfi pj/ fAd vq L Til, ISi7.

x %

PERSIA

aiis

KS than a century anil a half Inter the second Shuslum sprung
into existence imdiw the magnificent hand of Bonus, son of Hvs*
ta*pe&. There. ( at Sbuduuu in the paUce, which is in the province
of Ulnm/ 1 I Ianiel eow the vision of the rain with the two boms.
Thence pm the Royal Road to Sardis by which Xerxes started
forth for I Greece. There the beauty of Esther the Jewess shone
upon the vision of Ahnfiuenie (Xerxes or Artnxerxea), There
were received l he ambassadors and refugees from Greece* in whose
eyesSii^a waa* far more than Per&epolLsor Ecbatona, the true capital
of the Empire. There /Eachylns bid the scene of his tragedy of
the Persre, Shushiw was in fact the winter palace of the Achee*
tnenion sovereigns. About it stretched a great city, whose walls
were compared by Strabo to tlioso or Babylon. It was bt&cted by
the river Chapes (Kerkhahj the water of which was borne in silver
vessels to the table or the King of Kings. It wan upon this
splendid structure of royal pride and opulence that Alexander de¬
scended in triumph, and found there a treasure in bullion of nearly
ten millions sterling. After the Macedonian epoch the city fell
into ruin, but was rebuilt by Shapur II. under the title transhabr
Sliapur. 1 At the time of the Arab invasion its fortifications were
dismantled; but the town continlied to exist, mid in the Middle
Ages was, along wills Ah way. si centre of Hie auga recultivation of
Khurisfcan, 1 Its pillars mid stones were rifled to build the Cities
nf the Sassanian kings* ami no vestige remained of the ancient
glory except the stupendous mounds, overgrown with scrub and
low liLishes. that reared their heads from the plain between the
rivers Kerkhuh ami Ab-i-Diz, until, in the middle of thi.s century,
Lofrits and Williams appeared upon the scone with the excavators
spade.

The re^ultti of Ldfrus' explorations, which are contained in hIs
work* were at once satisfactory and meagre; satisfactory in so fur
E*dtu &nd ^ by discovering the remains of a palace begun, accord-
&ri*ui*foy ing to cuneiform tuwriptions tlurt were laid bare at the
game time, by Darius, Rin of Hyrtaspes, and complete by Arta-
verxes. be conclusively established the identity of the tumdi of
Shush with the classical Susa and the Scriptural Shusliun ; meagre,
1 because his trenches and tunnels, which are still visible In the

■ D*inM viil. 2, 3 Hu NSldeiw* OVic*. d 1 , Ptrtor mm* Tabari, p+ SO*

p Makatli™ f Dr*trrifrf in Zmyrrii .VmVw in, p. 30T.

1 TrdrtLt amt Rfif^crkft in €hald*m and Suxia pjji 4 ] HuST*.

THE SOUTH-WESTERN PROTIKOOBS 809

great mound, brought m little to light* imd left the larger spud
for a I titer worker in the saiue held. This was the Frenchman
M. Dienhifoy f who t having prerarnriy visiles] Persia in 1881 -~ J 2
with hi* versatile wife, who became the hist of tan of their travels, 1
anil having inspected the moEinth of Susa* returned in 1864> with
the permission of the Shah find the asdstmicn of the French Govern¬
ment, to prosecute investigation!? upon a large and scientific scale.
The results of these labours have been given to the world in lite¬
rary shape by the explorer and his wife; 2 their visible outcome is
proudly displayed in a ^aton of the Muafe du Louvre at Pane.

It is at w distance of fifteen miles in n aotilh^est direction from
]>izfnl tlinf tli*- prodigious mounds of Bhush f or Busily stand up
iiocimi-el against tliesky. They tuv situated outlie left bank p^f the
little river Shaur (originally Shapur), which rifles at no
great distance to the north rintl flows in a deop, narrow bed below the
Tomb of Daniel, and between the larger rivers Ab-LDi* (Bn hens),
fiix and a half miles distant on the east, and the KcrbhaJi \

one and a half mile distant on the west. The latter river divided
the populous quarter or the tine tent city fn mi the citadel and palace.
The entire dremnferenee of tbe mounds i* From six to seven miles*
They consist of thm* levels : the lowest conceals the remains of the
ancient city : the second, which is a rectangular platform two and a
half miles round and 72 fe- t high, the fortified enceinte that
contained the palace; the uppermost, 120 feet in height, 1,100
yards round the base, and EoO yank round the summit. was the
citadel, and is still known ns Koleh-bShush,

M. Dieobfcy discovered that the palace of Darius had been in
the main dest royed by fire t mid that upon it* mins another and
more splendid edifice wafi raised, overs century later, by
Artartnos Miiemi)!! <4t>5-3:>9 B.C.). Of tin* edifice there
<OTl ™ h, is n fancifully restored model by M« Dieulafcy in the
Lorn-re.* The principal relics of the original fabric that were
* flu ■■'jj i'hnhUr t* Id Smut .+r, LSS7,

r pfmikffty T J. Sit&r JfWfrmal tfr fmritlr*, INfe* M. Dfdlbfojr. L

dr iri Sm*r> Ip; EV:mn[ anU Chlptex, Uisioirt dr tJH, vol r v. y, ft *r-/.

1 'Hie UbU of Darina anil Artwrra# at Sosa (for It apj<«ir* prcbut-So lhat the
fMticlue wiis toil Iffqgt* extent n ff>toration of the older btiDiJ1»g) *r%w* in *liapo
ana dee%U ta Mire hr** ntniiSrC A fftrtinilTe m U loiter rale of the Ball or Tlmnifl
of XcnH at Ponsepolii, Tto.sv were three porticoe* with twelve calnma*
m& w of tbr !¥Eiu|»tei outer of Ar betnentan capital. The central linll ttiftllll&fid
Thirly-iftl smIiudti* ttlili tba complex or triple bull-hcwle^ capital, uf which
M. Dleaktfay MUUpoUdd a nuipiificcni ^pecimfin io tho Louvre.

310

PERSIA

reuOVflretE by him were the remains, since most carefully pieced
together and liberally restored, of the two superb friezes, of the
Archers and the Lions that decorated the facade of the later palace.
They are the finest exiting specimens of that art of enamelling m
polychrome n |mjci brick which was invented by the BjiIivIohulkis
i though unknown to Nineveh), imd wils adopted from them by the
AcLiiMiscElian monarch®, more especially for the th^oral ion of the
pukee of Susa. il«lf at no great diKtance from Babylon and
situated in a region w here stone wm not. as at iVrfcsejialb, easily
procurabhtj but where there was ftbuiiilaucti of clay for bricks*
The Frieze of Archer* represents a procession of warriors in relief
some five feet in height. Their b*^nl and hair are elase-curied,
after the Assyrian fashion; on their hack they carry a Ijdg quiver
and a curving bow; they wear a yellow tunic, patterned and
diapered. The twisted turbans un their heads and the goldeu-
bnobbeJ tipearb whicli they bold in their hands identify these wnmom
witli the Ten Thousand Immortals, a a described by Harodotmi, why
formed the Body-guard of the Great King . 1 Their complex ions,
which vary from black to white, typify the opposite quarters of the
globe from whiuli they were recruited. The Frieze of the Lions,
which is framed lietween bricks presenting elegant symmetrical
designs, represents the leasts a.- striding forward with opened jaw
and glaring eye, with swelling muscle and * artist retched tail. The
prevailing cotourti are green, pink, blue, and yellow ■ and a gorgeous
spectacle they must have presented a> they glittered under the hot
sun of Susiami from the palace wall.- SL Dieulafby also discovered,
and there are exposed to view in the Louvre, n number of lioval
Seals, coins, vases, cylinders, and glass and terra-cotta implement*
of the same epoch. Nevertheless, what was brought to light bv
him is probably but little compared with the remains of a still
older past that doubtless lie entombed below. The edifices of the
Achremenian monarch*, being latest in date, would naturally h*
encountered near the summit of the mounds. Subsequent explorer*
nmy expect to find iu their lower strata i be relics of ft fur more

1 Lib, tiL cap, SO.

= The Uom' Frieiw BcQinpfw+1 of briuks n. leSkf I ft. ^ m. Um^bv 7 in. high,
md 9> in, it lick. The Luc* are 11 Is a in. Urn^t by 5 it. a ia. high, T3» Arnhem'
i tLezf? i? iliflerentlj tnnde r of iniuilII iquari!** l te 1 |q. tach w^v h aikU ft in. rlsj-fc
at atfiSrfal d^ntr^tc, which luiubiur- tfcu- wbttCsqo? i>f [fosterwith Lhc rMiaumce
of GrnHtoo^.

the 'OLTIMVI> [] t:N I'HOVINCES

311

remote rind mysterious |vi»t T whereby we may yet lw enabled to
read the riddles of Soslan antiquity,

A little In knv the great mound at fhisa is the reputed Tomb of
Daniel." Thin is a somewhat mean building, aurtnouitted Lv a lofty
Tinri , (nf pineapple cone in plaster. In a white-washed inner
Dwiixi chamber the «irn>phagu> reposes behind a modern bni-ii
railing, upon which are hung tablets inscribed with prayer* From
the Koran, tfchiud, then' is a spede* of vault, which is shown to
such pilgrim* as desire the further corwboiwtion 1 it an Actual Don
„f |,| 0 hs. The entire building, which occupies one side of the
court of a earuvaiMrenu for pilgrims, in comparatively modern
very probably covers the remains of some Mohammedan saint who
lias lieen confounded with ! laniel; but from » very early period
tradition has aligned the burial-place of the Jewish prophet to
this spot. Rabbi Beujandn of Tudek, who reported 7,000 Jewish
inhabitants of Susa in hia day (1160-73 ,vi>.), declared tlrnt strife
having arisen over the laxly nf the saint lbetween the iliftenstit
quarter* of the town on opposite sides of the river, Sultan Strnjur
settled the squabble by ordering the corpse to be taken out and
placed in a coffin of glas*, which was suspended Of iron chains
from the centre of the bridge. Hits anecdote, though rapported
by another pilgrim, R, IMhadiia. who, however, represented the
outer coffin as being made of polished copper wiiicli glittered like
glas,, h not generally credited, ail Arab authorities king agreed
in saying that the Prophet's body was interred in the kd of the
stream, 11 However this way be, the itohnnunednn* are suLislied that
they have still got the real Daniel, which is perhaps not more im-
likely titan Schlieitmnnw real Agamemnon,

In the same neighbourhood are sevctid Sassanian min* ■ Aiwan-
i-Kerkliah, a Icnner eitv on the river of tlial name j 3 .] und-i-Mhapur
(the l amp of Shapur), ten miles southeast of Dizful;
u.l Ap..r Teng-t-lbitan (or the Gorge < if Idols), north-east of Dizfol,
near the River Diz, where, in a small recess near the summit of a

- [-Jit Uvjrnl £j )r jy ArfnmfMWX, vnU U. |ig. SKKMi! Da Bade. TrtitrU. ™L U.
j.j,. irtK-Wi: W, K, toliiu, Trarrb. rap. **v.; Mmlame Pfeabfuy, Jm 1 ‘trm,
op, x-tii-i ■

t tldW Sir W. OxiwteyV tmtubition of a iVretau (dated ISOi-D.S of Ilia

Tlarikb^ or Htoterj of I tm Anaim el .Kiili-

■ Yidir Mm*, tfioull&'jr* jji /fevta% p, htnl Dli3Utlflfo^ + who ivi tti St
virionc-lv Tilc-Alimt TWfrWCwUs*lii ftrul Knl L'Arl d* ** P?™*

|strL v. pp« TS-fiT* itncS pi*. 7-13 ■

Persia

mountain, are twelve figure, sculped in high relief, with an inscrip¬
tion, upon the rock—for accounts or theories as to which 1 may
refer my readers to the nauTOtivesmf Rawlinson, I »ayan], atid Schindler.
Let me now transport them* some distance to the east, to Bftkhti&ri
Land proper, where in the region* described a little earlier are to
lie found some noteworthy relics of the four periods of Suatnfi. Achse-
men inti. Sasaaman, and Mohenti fried mi rale, The meet conspicuous
of there occur at Mat Amir. 1 ti mountain plain, twelve miles long
by tire and n half broad, containing a small lake. in the basin of the
Upper Karun ? which lifts been described by Layurd na "the most
remarkable place in the whole of the Bflkhtiari mountains: y The
mins here consist of five groups :~f t) The ;emaiaH of an ancient
city, occupying a large or mound, in the east part of the plain,
identified with the Sassanian Idej or Izej (the Kindi of the local
Inscriptions and Kiiiteik of tin* Sutsimi text*), thought by some to
bare kvu also the site of Amain, the capital of the old Persian
monarchy, and of Cyrus, before it was moved to Pasargodm and
Peraepolis ; (2) five tablets containing 341 small figures sculped in
the rock in the ravine of Knl Fam, or Faraun. at the north end of
the plain 3 together with a long cuneiform inscription^ of which
Luyard said that they are *of higher antiquity than any other
sculptures of the kind in Persia *; a bos-relief near the mi'im-
zttdt'h uf Shuh Sowar,, on the east aide of the phi in ; (4 ) ft Large
number of sculptures in an extensive cavern called Shikafti Salman
in ft gorge on the south side of the plain, the figures representing

1 TtHD fuufttt rignlAra HniM. nr country of the Atnir: nniUe an cbw.ilrto Fcndan
word CcJ. r*jAiHrid) "-till m»d t>y tlw Lur* ,m] Kurd;*.

* JbtonNtJ t*f thr JL&.P,, \'ti <1. JtvL pp, 74-WJ, rind iiiny V i>|. L

pp. IOuy h vol. ii pp. hi-18. Ctitidfiafu Du thulc, Journal nf f^r §LGJ$,+ y oL xUI.
P|3. 100-C. and TnirtU v in]. II. pi>. Et 1-3 (with an [IhiaizstUm] | A. H, ^dirndlEr,
&iL dcr tte&tL fitr Erd.zu iWfrt, ml* x\v m ; Captain 13 L. Wol]*, /V. if fh*
RM.-'i (dpr- series). tkiI. f. 10*3; H. H, Lynch, lfrtf, vol. XsL IRSKl.

J nils icmiptUn wu poptel by Jjijuil, am I piiUMietl by him in Cvmei/trrm
Jjitcriytimit frnm pis, M-7 L It Im- "been dirdpLisradl by

PmfEfc^ir Siiyee. -IrfrJ rf* <W ftivffrfj rfr* A L^slBBO, pp. fi@l, Jffl

vallb the Ihird cuiaeifbnn ehuacti-r (which Nurrln Eafcrpri c«d a* gqytMin nnri
0|3pn-rt hftlfb* up b£ Median) AmnrdiuEl ur KJainlle. Cf. Tram. *Jt hf &h\ vf HthL
Arrh . vol; ±11, p.-14fi. lUantailoii* of twn of I ho tablet*, ton pbot4gni|& by
M. Hoqauit, lituv 1 «x-fi pablinLiwl Fur I he rirvt iIrh" by Peirot and Ctepltt*
dr r.irt. vo3. V. pp, 77G-ft. Until mpr&mnt & >ncr[firinl «ci>tin. In wbieb Jntlinb]^ are
fir faro bi^h iliin^hteTnl in the pr<»eiM» of * being of superfauttifcti ilsie, who ia

doubth^. n k r «*3- I n tl«- 1ft ruc-r a elO nuirt$ r-lnbomta pan nl t he TrmT men t utf rlfM
rewill wins ol tlw A wka srnlplLL^. TV NVftnd i. rr^r^ clmusv * hut
iwltber nvinhto tltlmr in ity]e or tmnmEnt, iht Armenian scvlptarw

THE SOT TIN WESTERN PROVINCES

310

priests imd worship per* in ms ati ituile of £LippltCAtion T ami tamg
explained by an inscription of thirty-six liras in a complicated,
cuneiform character. 1 The above sculptures m’c either Buriaii or
Aduomenion in rigm* and date from the eighth ur ninth centu¬
ries hA r nod later. (5) In a neighbouring gorge, railed] Hong, are
sonic Na^mian Kcalpfcures, the central figure of which is a monarch
with the familiar busby mop of hair.

About twenty mite* to the jmrtb-wetrt uf Mai Amir, anil mt
the right. hank of the Kanin, is tin- small plain of Susan. The
recurrence of this name, the presence here of a second,
lint even more insignificant, Tomb of Daniel, anti the
stories that were told him by the Lure uf wonderful ruins in t
neighbonrhood, led KawlinsoE, who did nof visit the locality him-
self, to think that here, rather than at Sura, might i*e the Shushan
of the ancients, Lnvanl* who visited the sjMrt under circawstances
of great difficulty uul hardship,- reduc'd the patriotic hyperbole of
E he Lnrs t*i it a proper dimensions* Some insignificant remains
of roughly-hewn stone, the probable frumdarion* of a Sassaman
building, were catted by them Mttsjid^i-Snleimmi, or the Temple
of Solomon, fi monarch much venerated in Lur tradition; some
fmllier bea]>H of old uusoniy were similarly deMgnnted Mnl-i-
Winin, or Ruined Settlement. As the Karan enteiv this valley
from the en*t. it ii Hanked on cither side by the jmved causeway,
attributed to the AtabegH, which I have mentioned ; and a little
below are the remains of the famous bridge of Kamh-^ad, which
here spumed the torrent, and was regarded as one of the wonders
of the ancient w orld. 3 In midstream are two huge maflE£B of brick*
work, probably $n*sanuui, that supported the orehe*; on the
m min tain slides are visible the earlier Knianhm abut men is, from
which they sprang. The occurrence of these numerous relied of

1 Aim by Lchyjini. ih*d. t pts "1-2, uirl ilodlp^eml by Sfljjffie, i

pjf, iOB, He fade nuudc dmwipp* of two AL-ulfrt til** in mi cui joining C»Vem,
which Wfl» [Klblilbed by Floodm JUld Cn»t*. ve1 + tv. pL :£!&, Th*r ujib mu diil the
lmeri|itida« Khni4-FrriBgbb of writing* whI nrv much dlfleppotefcl

whm a forelfrmT rckfi&ut reasl ihe®* Their belfcf* which would totem Id be m
nntOTMCfOM curroborntiOh of the Ar* inCIc-A tthU lhcury.li* tliftt the juiciest intuit L-

Uuit* of npan mlpmdnj; t» tbnire*bbttrifcri their trewflP? with jjulmctirthn

m to the site, *ctilped in n l.in^ui^e which tlk^ir modern de^adim!*

mmst wnturaity knew.

- JtivrmI ALO’. V,. tuL id pp. fil-lti //rrlj^ AJreAtvri*, vriLi. pp. J 15 - 2 f%

, * Sttcnilixl frOEEL the- mother uf Anteehir, the firat &i£Hii£fci] king. There is n,

lon^ iumdlVL of it in the Jf^ri $r t of Enlc. Mohammed KiuvjnL

PERSIA

n post which hns vanished from tnfuumyv, and atSmo«l from know¬
ledge, [s hi it the lea*t among tlip recompenses that await the
ItHftilln in this romantic portion of the Shah's dominion* : and I
at once urge and envy the scholar who, with time and niemati at
hib disposal* ahull in rbe fat la re visit and exhaustively examine the
whole of thb interesting region. X believe that he may return
with ft spoil that will flhed a valuable light npnn history, besides
conferring upon himself well-merited distinction.

Further to the south* amid the mountain ranges inhabited by
various tribes of the Tmr family, other remains have been discovered
other and described. Of these the most important are some

rtituiiHfl sculptures, of which drawings wen- made by Of Bode, 1
in a gorge called the Teng-L-Sftulek, at a distance of seven fururtkh#
from Behind]an, in the territory of the Ihditnei tribe of Bakhtin ris.
At h Ifanutsenni village nrtim-d Nur&bad, between BeliIndian and
Kittenm, and mi the banks of a small river, is a great SossaniiHi
b»S*ruliefj representing a seated monarch and his courtiers,. not
unlike one of the tablets at Shnpnr. It is called Nnkeh-i-Bahrain,
and the plain ^uhni-i-Bahruim s

The moat remarkable natural feature of the region which I
have been describing is, undoubtedly, the splendid and self-willed
TUt. Kfrrtm torrent of the Upper Karan, This river, of the lower
rivor reaches of which 1 sluill have & > much to say in rlit-
ensuing chapter, i* called, m these volumes, by the mime which
it commonly l tears, alike in Arabist an mid in popular terminology*
Its true orthography„ however, would ftpiieur to be Kunm, from
the Kuh-i-rang, nr Variegated Mountain, in which it rises. 1 Though
parrs of the upper course of this great river have been followed
or traced by the travellers to whom l have so frequently referred y
and Though its reputed wurce wot visited by Stack in 1881, it waa
not till two year* ago (1890) that it* impetuous and zigzag current
was tracked to it* real birthplace, and pursued through the gorges
and valleys of its parent nicmtitaiiiB. by Major Sawyer, of the Indian
Intelligence Department In the very heart of Bukhtiari Land
stands the lofty mountain cluster known m the Kuh-i-rang, or

1 Eagnivrd .mr| juiLliphnJ by Gindin nu>.] L\>ir. toJ, iv , p]>.

3 I l<fr rbfcEuiin urn I tVfrfte, vol. O'. |iL 2^,* LV i;. *-lvoL ii. [>,22*; Slol« B
PrrtrjHihti fi>L It pL 14<s,

* Till: Porf«£(wmo writers, Dl- Uiixm* mmt Cotluiiw, caltetl H R]u (.Wish. ui\\et
oppAltotioru Sn KompcaD wilier* of the Iru-r two wutnrie# bar# beta Oofronf^
Kutva-r. Kuri n, Keren, nnd Ca»mn,

the SOUTH-WESTERN PROVINCES 3Li

Jelmn-Iiiii (World’s View), jnst under 13,00 k l\ v t in height.
From this great centre, which form** at tin* same time a water
parting for the two meet famous riven* of Perak, and n boundary
between separate ethnological arena, spring the Karon on the
south and the Zendeb It ml on the oust. The former (bains towards
the Persian Gulf; the hitter has already G en encountered under
the nrcht*? of the terraced bridges of Isfahan. In the peak failed
Haft Tamm (Seven Corpses, said to he thus.? of the first and lost
party that ever reached the summit), are the fral head-waters or
tlu* Kama. Fourteen miles lower down is the remarkable spring
in the Zartleh fvuli, 1 which was viritiil Gy Stack a and by Mrs.
Bishop, and which Local error ha.- christened Scr-cluislimeh-i-
Kunuij'. i,e. Head-springs of the Kunin. from a hole in the l»f«
cliff wall, conununifating with a deep well at the other end ut a
natural deft in the rock, the water gushes out with magnificent
strength, und full*, with a roar into the pond forty Get lx-low.
Hence the river rushes to its main bed, five miles did ant; and
from here to Shudder, n distance of seventy-five miles as the craw
flies, drives a sinuous furrow for toO miles through some of the
noblest mountain scenery in the world, falling in tlu* same interval
9,000 feet. Its normal width, even in it*- upper reaches, G from
50 to 100 yards, but sometimes it is compressed between sombre
gorges, whose jierpendicular walls, from 1,000 to 3,000 feel in sheer
height, throw into p*r|>etuol shade the sea-green ribband below;
whilst hi one place, at the bridge of Ali Kuh, its volume is con-
t muted within a rift only nine tivt across, l'or the fiist I till miles
of its course it runs due =ouili-east. 1 lien, with a sharp betid, it
turns south-west, mul cuts n fifty miles chauuel through traissv arae
ranges j then for nearly 100 miles more it flo*"s north-west, in a
directi 'ii inverse but exactly jjarullel to if- original course; finally,
it turns south, enter- thr plain of Akili by » gorge (OiiiinaiiJec! by
the ruins of two SassaniiUi castles, and haring bunt bv means of
another defile through the Kuh-i-Fedelek. or sandstone ridge above
Shusht'-r, debouches upon tin* plains of Arabia tan. Haring this
erratic progross it receives several tributaries, Of these, the most
important and comparable ill volume with itself is I lie Ab-i-Bunft
or Rndbar, which flows in from tin* north-west ill » bed running

1 Tilt* nlgnitii:*- Yellow Muunluin. nml J» iptiK- n BifNlem iihiim*. Tie 1 (Ir-rl™,

thin, Sant Knb—Le, CuM MounTnm—Ins tsSjll »UcS«ted, anil i», |ifrliBl», moro

probable. 1 Sir MvntAi i* Ptrria, Ttil, ii, |i|i. fll -2.

310

PERSIA

almost parallel with its own upper waters. Other noticeable con-
Huents are a river from the HtHt n^eivLng the overflow of the
ChaghMior Lake* an ft a stream from t he north, called the Abn-
Beheahtahod (Abode of Paradise)* or Barkash Warkash (from
the Imuf through which it cuts it-s way), that drains Cbelmr
MaliaL Hear Ihipulim (Two Bridges), Hows in the Alh-i-Sabfcti
(also called Dahinur. Dinaran, and Ab-i-G urab). From the soufh
conies the Ab-i-Bora, hailing fifom the tofhr Kuh-i-Dim rungs.
From thi* point to Shnshter its tributaries are frequent, but
relatively insignificant; they include several fait Or naphthiL^tam+x]
streams.

I have £!iid that the Zendeh Rnd also: rises in the Kuh-i-misg,
although on its opposite side* Between the two rivera extends a
Tb, Knr mountain spur* through which, into the tfhurab (Halt
Knftu.n Water) valley, it was the design of the earlier Seftm
Hup to divert the waters of the Kanin, so as to recruit their
beloved Zendeh Usui, too often a slender streamlet by the time it
re»hed Isfahan. The place is known as Kor Hunan, or The
Workers. This ambitions but sensible project, of which mention
is made by Herbert, 1 Clearing,* lavender, 3 Sanson, 4 and Chardin/
appears to have In-ell initiated in the tuxteenth century by Shah
Tahma-qp,whn began to exenvat" a tunnel.but is said lo have been
repelled bv the noxious v-apours. Abbas the Great T abandoning
the tunnel scheme, for which the appliances of that ago were
hardly adequate, commenced a cutting, upon which, according to
Herberts he employed 40,000, and sometimes 100,000 men. He
wasTanqnidaed by the snowy and by the cold in winter, Abbss II.
tried the simultaneous experiment of damming the river, so m to
mlae its level, mid of mining the rock, under the direction of
M, (Jenc-tjtj a French engineer. Both schemes were failure; and
there the matter has rested till the present time. Stack visited the
imfii waKwl gutting in LSBl,and reported it to be a huge cleft* sawn
right across the ciwt of the liill t 300 yards in length, IS in
breadth, and 50 feet deep (measurements which. I believe, are not
OOTTset)^ Tbs quarried rocks an* stilt symmetrically piled in
beam, and the ruins of the stone huts, built for the workmen, an*

■ Stroke y^i rrt Tmrfl* r p, JTtf. * Vvffftfjt, cnl* 751 .

j HI'- IT- cap. vi 1 JQUft jj*£ftpK/ Jf hi IVr&y p. TA,

% (frrl. Luriglt^j, vat j%u pp. J 27£>-84.

* fii j lbti£Jb im vpL iL p. 84,

TTlr KaR

317

TJIK SOlTTll-WIvSTIillN PROVINCES

visible. Major Sawyer estimated that less than one-twentieth of
the entire w ork was completeil. Nevertkele^, ihe experiment was a
ijerfectlvratioiutl one* tht a levels Whig tfivouiiibIe T and tb® r*Wka'-l^
not iiiMinnountiible. Modern engineering science would iiecom-
plish the purpose without difficulty by dams and tunnelling. Xor
in it likely, looking to the volume of water ill the Kanin, nod t he
numerous tributaries by whit'll it is subsequently fell, that the river
level wiiuld be lowered one inch thereby at Shnahter. I in' ques¬
tion rather i -. whether the diverted water, turned into the llat
Bhingly boil of the Zondek Rod. would not be scattered long before
it had reached Isfahan. All such speculations, however, in a
country like Persia, are in reality superfluous. Tim Shah is about
«n likely to undertake a genuinely great public work as lie is to
turn PrcAestftnt-

KrHOKLr TiOMEt (LtJn*).

Larpril, ISi-i

/ tiobf r AbMd
\ Snwi

hiii teluih ] ThuhmEmwajarl
1 ChyniDiS
AhmtNli;
SjobAtiiS^t
Kola lull

Tfllbl

Ituwi

YtlKJii

KidiUsarr.Oi

tjhlf AM

3WQ

Agn jeri frtmtiruwi
Teknjert Tclilt ftnii

Gfgluiliud Jurmiih RtjTUTlzi
Mitjridl Af^hur

Beroir

ChoonMjm

titihitmix

Mnlahmt-ltX'

Tyfibbte

ItettVi'

KfdnHTrce
tliwr Ati

ahiibPiKjec

Yoteiwree

Agli&j'ree

TraMikoohoe

JsmliftCAi

JjuHb fr™wrg**i

ThliTwt

Kesbit-el

l5ccldklf»

ll.iFlnu.

Fnffhtrl-

Kuh

iBn-li-l-Eahmcf

Nowl

Di**Utnea Kiari

Clmrurti

Baiuiioi

Tattri

KuE.

Yniufl
Aphh Jeri

llLlUhcl

Heidimi

Tsuipi-i-Ttfkno

Simwi

Jiunttiir Dil&m

There remain to lw noticed other off&hoots of the Lilt stock*
whose camps are pitched in the same quarter of Persia. Of these
the Kulgelu 1 occupy the country south of the Bakhtiaris,
1>Iir tU around the Kub-t-Dum and the sources of the Jerald
RiveT, as far as a line drawn from Ram Hormuz to Behtmhun. On
li e west they mareh with the Arabs of k’liuzistan, on the east
, Laynel, Jn,mal <ft*r ml. *vi. pp. 2I-*t and !>«= l**H. A™™*'

tks Il.flZ rid- P 7C - “' d VUL i, pp. S?6^9,

PERSIA

with the MajnABsnhi Lore, [ append u Hat of their tribal divisions
aa they have been recorded nr different times in the past half-
wntmy by Sir FL Layanl, Sir J, Khcil. and Mr, \V. Baring (of the
Tehemn Legation), They consider them selves distinct fn>m the
BokhtiariSj having, with few exceptions, been under sepMUte
chiefs and another government (‘namely, Bahbehati, which is an
indniiniHrmtivo Hub^tvLsion of Kara). Nevertheless th«?v differ from
the Bathtiarirn but little in dialect, mid not at nil in manners,
customs, or religion. They had always enjoyed the wont of
rupnMioba tor lawlessness and cruelty until they were severely
tafc™ hi hand by Ferhad Wim, who was Governor of Fam
up till 1&82* and who by his merciless visitation *onn purged
them of the dross of turbulence, T 1 In- tidbit has never naist*d its
head -ince, i>e Bodu t in whose and I^yurda time thev were rul.-d
by a mrul of Arab origin* Mi™ Kama or Knmo of BahlHimi, snvs
that their common food ivas brend pude from pounded acorns/
Adjoining the Kuhgelns on the Bast ore the tents or the
Mamasoimi fqy* Mohammed Hosetni) Lure, 1 occupying the country
Mimammni known as ShiilisTun, 1 imd extending ns far east and
Lftr* south-wet m Fans and the plain of Kazernn. This
tribe prides itself on [Us origin, claim tug to have come from
Seistan* and to be directly descended from Rustam, whose name h
still borne by one of the Maiiuv^iini clans. Their subdivisions
hate l>een aliuont identically reported by different travellers in this
century, and are as follows:—Rustam, Beksln for Bakesh), davi,
Dm hmail Zhm (the last-named, aa has been seen, also included
among the Knhgdn Lara* an indication of the slightness of

1 The Arabic word for ihfo tttfdiu, whjrh Ktciw» on a d warf-odt mil in of u \y-
iionnn] lfiOptli, 3s ftriut, whence the title the lm\ r/usrrH* fa/Aita, njul wbajco
nl*-. AtfiYnfti. the Spgkniih wont for acorn, Both minus ft It 1 pcKsihty dcrlvixl fn.m
the <i reek pdtom< sus-1 so orij^ually frtUd I be Arran root yal fat the Ijstti,
flfaii*), Tito Rout dwired from the crushed acorn* they u-ither mi mw in the form
or {Arte, or baked fa la cake* Compare the of Atwlm | n Ifcmrl. L GO

1 The popular atyuuriofEute, who like nothing *> much mu fanciful rmaibbiniH
Imre codmjctcd Them with th® Mama Van! of Qulnius Curtlna (13b, vij, cair ti > P
who valiantly ranted Alexander In ISaclrta, new M^irnmdft (RimnrkiiinJ J, Otbpra
iih-til Lfy thirm with the lUminbrt ul Pilny (fTUf. ±Yq{. v. IU} h who ihhubslid the
tetwaby of Ham mine* in Oieh-Syrk

* ThL« I* th»f Mrobtaii fif Sforod Ifato. Lc. the rrnimrr of Ihfl Shu!*, who, fa the
twelfth century. were txpnll&d by the Lure from Luriafan,, and <c£tl?r| j ft l j ]0
tMtantry bi^lw.i'en KlnuL-rton and Shlmi. Ibn Bat Utah, on hb, o»v> maKh
from Shi m? to Kft^rnn. wraftped In Kba country of the flhnls, whom ho aeacrSbed
an *a FeraanU dtwcrt tribe ffhldh Eftrinden noffia pEoa^ penwu^'

tub southwestern pugyingEs sib

ethnological or other diflbrouce between tbt a I wo tribes)* Their
total number wns ■ si i mated in 16S-1 bk 1 i hey have twu

even nioiv celebratwl for their predatory and lawless habits than the
Ktthgehi, and have a! ways (bund both a ral lyiug-pl ace and a retreat
in their -celebrated hill-fortress of Kaleh or Diz-i-SefkL the White
(so culled from tlw colour of the rockj s in the mountains,
some fifty miles to lhio north-west of Shiran This wonderfti l natural
stronghold—like thoas already described, mi isolated bill summit
with perpendicular sides, accessible only by a U \y ledges tor the
ski]fill climber, and by a single path hewn in the fare of the reek T
and defended hy towers and a gate way-—has played a conspicuous
pan in Persian legend and history. The great Rustam only took it
by stratagem, introducing his soldiers in salt-bags placed on camels* L
It wrested for a while the armies of Alexander, Timur captured
if by the aid of Radakahim climbers. Macdonald Kinneir, who
visited it in 181 U f with Colonel Monteifch, found it defended by huge
stones pi used along the brink of the precipice and ready, as in the
story of Delphi, related by Heradoto*, to be rolled over. Towards
the latter part of Path All ShidTe reign the MmnaaeniUB, under
a redoubtable robber chieftain named Veli Khan Bakash, were
in constant rebellion, An army of Azerbaijan troops marched
against them, and besieged the Knleh Setid T which was at length
forced to mrreiuler. Nearly 300 of the Lur women, however,
sooner than fall into the hands of the Turkish soldiery, hurled
themselves with their children from the aummit and perished* In
1840 the Mamasomifi were still yayhi \ and we hear of Maimchelier
Khan, the Motemed-ed-Dowbh t as glutting his naturally ferocious
appetite by building -JUd of them with mortar into a Jiving tower.
Still they continued unsubdued until Ferhad Mi mi meted out to
them the same drastic measure as he also dealt* to the Kuhgelu ;
since which time they have abandoned the game of plunder and
rebellion* and now content themselves with pastoral occupations
and the habits of pence, the rente from Shiraz to Belt bi-lion being
as eaft 1 ns that from Bhiroa to Rushire, In IH8l some of this
tribe were encountered by Captain "Wells between Kazc-mn and
Fall I iu u; and he described them m h the fmeurt-looking men he
had yet seen in Persia, with a handsome Jewish cast of countenance,
very aquiline noses and long beards; t he monfitacheH drooping
and lighter coloured; the hair also light brown; tin* eyes often
1 Sknk itiwAt of Firdnik

320

Hack. but sometimes grey. They worn- the tall brown felt hal or
the ancient !V ramus, which is much mum imposing than the
round-headed cap of trite Bathtinri and Kuhgejn Lure/ 1 These
various triliea were once out terms of perpetual enmity muj con¬
flict; but they now collide more rarely, their lending families
being united by marriage ties, and the veto of the State haring
become less susceptible of defiance. Of the Kaslikai Lam [ have
previously spoken in my chapter on the route from Isfahan to
Slhll-DZ.

From the survey of Luiutan and the tuns inhabiting the
highlands. I now [Kits to the const-plains mid to an Arab |*>pnlii-
Anbr>i*ft *“ L The administrative title of Am bis tan. UtwnUy the
IaiuI or the Wanderers, is applied to a larger area’than
that embraced by the plains alone, many of die Jlikiu inrig being
under the jurisdiction of its Governor, whose official residence Ls
«t Shush ter. Nevertheless the tide more correctly describes the
alluvial levels between the mountains and the sen,' including the
nesiMcrive plains of Dhsfhl* Shuakor, Hawia-h, ami Ham Honnna.
its boundaries may be defined os a line from the Kerkhuh Jiiver
to Mdtmmmenih cm the west, the Bakhtimi hills on the north, the
Shat-el-Arab am] Persian Gulf nn rhe south, and the Sindian
River on the east. Tbits province is identical with the ancient Elam,
the classical Humana, and the more modern Khuzistmi. The hitter
designation appears now to have fallen into disused Tie- pre^nt
administrative partition of the province is into eight districts
subordinate to the Governor-General. These are Dizfhl, Shushter
Hawineb, Ahwaz, Mohammemb, Frilahinh, Deh MidUb. and Ram
Horn hit:, which are respectively administered bva Femiirn Deputv-
govomor or by n sheikh or one or the ruling Arab hmtites
ap,minted by the Government. In olden days they were nil united
under the Yah oFArebtffan, the Arab descendant of nu illustrious
family ol who ruled at Huwueh alm Mt a., an independent

prill®, and shared the proud title of Tali with only three other

■ SVMmffttff tf Mr li.fiJ*. (acw series}, roL r. im l...
of tin* Jlflimwiini* sml tLo Kaltli Hetikl ^ , ,. ' . . fliDracrtmnis

Bodf, T *oI. L pp. *29, " 1 ] PP^ Barnn De

* Khwdfrtao tsthooria to baderlwrf from th* nnri tr™n , . -

tbatoerenia U.O - nnelfom, Inscription,, aitf E, rs-Lni’k-'
u™ of Mint* and Hint On rfo Jw uL > « ' , p J rl ~ J t!ll > un ^“ «r thi
a Persian whjts} nH^ in „™f ^ fron]

THK SQUTfl-WEOTERN PSOVLYCEG

Persian subjects, the rulers of Gntjiatan (Georgia), Ar del an r and
Lnrotam Tin? village nr cutups are nn&f their respective
thelkli^ vvhn lire in sponsible Tar the revenue* paid hi a lump sum
to the district governor,, who again ]>05HC£ it. on lo the provincial
exchequer.

Tile population of this region is either pure Arab, or, more
frequently mixed Arab and Putfritui* “Die introduction of the
former element commenced with the Arab conquests
TLr Anlw A a n d has been recruited Over since by

gpontfiiieoiiH iinungnmoii from tin- other wide of the Tigris and Hie
Persian Gulf, ii< well a* by dini t imp-unil Ion, Slmli Ismail having,
it is- said, brought a largo nundn-r of Arab colonists from the
•district of Nejd. Few of thwa Arab tribes have kepi their blood
undviiled- The majority have intermingled with the Persians* and
the residr is a strange hybrid, s well m I nhfill afhTwurib describe. :it
Shufihter nod elsewhere, where the Persian dn-s* and even the
Persian religion have been in the itndn udopted^ where wodontary
hu* replae-d nntnsd e-xistence, and where tlte natural dignity of
the Bedouin* or Wanderer, h m succumbed to Persian wiles* Of
the Aral] peoples the meal important are the KaTj (vulg* ChaljJ
Arabs, of whom there were originally seventy-two tribes. The
bulk of these have died out or disappeared - but the race is still the
mrat numerous m Arabist an* Laynrd in Wil gave n tubulated
list of their tribal divisions and su 1x1 i visions, many of which are net
now known in the country, l-rom a list compiled by Mr, Robert-
HOn* the late British Consul at Busiah, 1 lake the following mime*
as those of the Arab tribes or the province, not Ka'ba alone, who
are said tit ill to number 500 or more adult males. They are the
Al-bn-GbuU*utdij Asakindi, Khun&ftrah, Buwjeh, Bait-el-lffyi, Beat
* Rnnhaid, Beni Saleh, Beni Turuf, ILimudi, Humaid, Kmdasli,
Jurf r Katldr* Muhaia-n, Nairiah, Nnsare. Slmraifat, Bhunifa,
Snwari. Sudan* Suleiman. The number of smaller tribes is very
large* On the eastern borders of the province ora some other Arab
tribes not included in the above EM, notably the Mnntefik ot
Hawizeh, and thote tSrended robbers the Bern Linn. The bulk ot
three, however, iinrlicidarly the Beni iiiins, are in Turkish torrs-
ten- and of the latter, therefore, 1 shall not again apeak. The Arab
and semi-Arab rril>ea of the province have been reckoned ai various
totalfl between I70 s tl00 aid 200,000, the larger sum being thus
arrived at :—

VOL. II* v

PERSIA

323

Kat* Aral** - t^.OOQ

>It!TC^ Atnb* ami Fcmtaii* i—

Rtiiu llonum . , P , . . a7.<J0O
8 h ns trier, ttLrM, and I Ifiwjifh . ^ 1 i 0,(KlO

m wo

The history of the KoTj Anil.', which is typical of that of
most of their neighbours. Las been ns follows. 1 They are said

Kt'bAnJH OTi P inall y t0 h*™ from the Arabian shore

of the Persian Gulf to the marshes near tile junction of
the Tigris and the Euphrates,where they became Turkish subjects,
and acted os buffalo herdsmen; until, teiug propelled by drought,
or expelled by another Arab tribe, they moved smith wards and
established a new settlement on a cjitiilI ]fading from the Kanin,
which they called Kuban or Gnbban. Pushing eastwards towards
the Jerohi River they presently came into collision with the tribe
of Afehnrs, whose heatl-qnnrtera were at Dorak on I list river.
They themselves fortified n mmp at Fellahic-h, twelve miles lower
down, and, taking advantage of the general anarchy that followed
upon the death of Nadir Shah. violently ousted the Abhors nm!
got the whole country into their hands. About this time they
were ruled by a sheikh, who owed to a powerful personality n far
more than local renown. This was Sheikh Salman, or Suleiman,
who Tor thirty yearn directed and aggrandised the fortunes of the
tribe. In 1758, tired with a larger ambition, he commenced to
build a fleet, and by 1765, when Xiebuhr was in the country, had
acquired ten large mid seventy smaller vessels. So extensive were
his depredations that Kerim Khan despatched a punitive expedi¬
tion Against him is that year. Malcolm says that hn bought off
the invader by a large indemnity, and by the promise of o regular
tribute. But it is more currently believed that by cutting the *
dykes, which everywhere regulated the ditches, canals, and streams
of a country rich in water-supply, and so Converting the plains into
n swamp, hr reduced his adversaries to impotence.* His piratical

■ Jiflh C. Mebuhr, VtfBft , n Arabia, V„L ii. p, J®0 { (Sir) It. Lwusl Journal
,<f tkt H.G.S . vot **t. p]». 3MB, ud Hurt, AdrrntureM, T(,l. ii. . / 3i -v „

BawlinMin, J.wnuit/ the tt.G.S^ tuluril p. iss- w. V. Ainsworth! Pen»„ d
“V***"- «- W- 20--IS} Damn C. A. De Bod*,

Tra*tlt, vol. ii, pj., 110-20. '

* Colonel Mofltdtlj found ita swjtiupa still oot whim he --»_ jv .

in 1*10. unil the desiccated channel of the Kanm-«I-Ainleb or Mw K ' _ { „ a

ertstln^ witness to the dmtruoUau of the eld Knb dia, ncros* tl,« K-,t,tiL ’

THE SOUTH-WESTERN PROVINCES 32S

escapades now took a wider range, nud ho effected a seizure oi
some British voxels trading in the Gulf. This brought down upon
him the indignation of the British Government, mid a naval es>
[^edition, consisting of four vessde, was charged with the reduction
of the Ka'b power in 1767 . One of the flotilla blew up ; an un-
succesfifnl attack was made on the inland of KLnmk in May 1708 ;
and the expedition retires! with meagre laurels. With the pursuits
of a corsair, however, sheikh Salman combined the instincts of
statesmanship ; he was liberal-minded and far-seidng in his en¬
couragement of agriculture* irrigation.. and commerce; and he left
a name worthy of remembrance. After his time the Ka'bs little by
little forfeits their independence; their position, midway between
Persian and Ottoman jurisdiction, exposing them to the assaults of
both* and compelling them to pay tribute alternately to either
power. Their own internal squabbles, moreover, are fitly illttitsftt&cl
in the accompanying pedigree, which l procured from Sheikh
Mizal Khan, the present chief of the tribe, and which shows that out
of twelve sheikhs who ruled between 1600 ami 1700 a*D- s no fewer
than ten perished by the hand of the assassin. W hen Stocqneler*
however, wa's in their country Its. 1831, he Found Sheikh Mnhndir,
a lineal descendant of Salman, still 4 the moot powerful chieftain
in south-west Peraiii/ po&wing a revenue of 00,001) temui7\x y
and an firmed force of 15,000 infantry, and 6,000 to 7,000 Cavalry*
Pellahieh, his capital, contained a citadel one and a halt mile round*
and a large mqitl.tn with a park of artillery, mostly old Portuguese
fdssJ He was succeeded by his brother Tbanaer (the Samur of
Stocquelor), who appears to have inherited the better, while avoid¬
ing the worse, traditions of Sheikh Salman. Though lib earlier
career had been stained by more than ordinary treachery and
crime, yet, when his power was established, he encouraged agricul¬
ture. repaired the damn and perfected I he system of irrigation,
protected the caravan tracks, and opened Mohamntenih (which had
been built in 1812 by u shaikh of the subordinate Mu liaise u tribe
lo resist the encroachments of Turkey) ns a free port. Thie
brought down upon him the vengeance of the Vali of Baghdad,
who found that the trade of Busndi &u ffered severely from the
competition or such n rival. Mohatnmomh was plundered by a
Turkish force in 1887; end it was in the course of the troubles
that followed that the Pomona wen? first admitted by tho Miiluu sen
1 Fifteen .W&Hth*' F*lgn "aw^, vd. L p. 73f.

PEftSlA

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* SflULI, Xm* CtftHt-V FTM fl t
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III. U'vlluh na SrtKlKJi* or tiik
Mu^tefte Thxpk of JlAwmiii.

IntYIIk A3fH smtudn* <JfT Til* OLD UL'IJV.
FUtBiT 1 }

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MvUaUH'QI

■ Fer fh-p ptdSfiH at ilii fimJty rWr b^ul. j^b.cm! V srl. |>. H.

the sogth-w isstern moYmcm

Sheikh Haji Jahir Ehm into that pities, rewarding bis comphU
nance with the official title of Governor, SlMfeh Tb»mM T it may
htHLgiiKt], waft too prominent a figure to please the Portion
Government T which, under Mohammed Shah, was beginning to
show a very Wlftsooe activity; rind, having pot hhneeli out o(
court bv harbouring the fugitive BokhtiuW chieftain* Mo bum rued
Juki Kh;in f b 1840, lie was proclaimed a rebel, and was compelled
to fly into Turkish territory, lai^ nephew Faria being nominated to
succeed him. Sheikh Thamer was tin- last powerful chief of the
Al-bu-Nasir or ruling family of Fellahieli, which has since then
sunk into a secondary position, while the tftar of the Muliaiscn tribe
fose in itri place. Sheikh TJminers dcscendiititft are still, htiffevflf,
in poa^s-ioQ i]Oth of Fellalueh and of Deli Mullah, a further ka b
settlement more to the east.

Hnji Jabir Khan, who was a very shrewd and calculating indi¬
vidual, and who saw that the only practicable policy was to humour
the growing power of t he Persians, remained in pt>^sicri
stSwLwuj of Mohnnitnerali, with the enjoyment ot a Persian title,
.bdkfc'H until htA deurh October 1881, He was then succeeded
by his younger sea, Sheikh MuaI Khan, alike in the chieftainship
of the tribe, and, by favour of the Shah, in the governorship of
M-ihaiumenih. The sheikh has since been yearly confirmed in this
post, receiving from the Governor-General of Arubistan the annual
klurtttl, or robe of honour^ which in Persian public life ih both the
official le$himui- of reappointiiLetitp and the signal tor n becoming
monetary return from the preesutee. Along with this, in ISfllhho
was grant oil the sonorous title of Muazi -es-S ult&ne 1 1 , for which he
was obliged to pay a proportiouate fee.

The sheikh resides in a flue riverside house on the Khnfc-el-
Arab, at a spot called Foil id i, about one mile aljove Mohatmnemh,
the Persia a Hag floating above his roof. Iin mediately in
yiimi front of the mansion a gun is planted on the river ft edge,
and there attendants an- ever watching to return the
salute which U invariably given totlnii master by vessels ot the
British India < 'ornpany in aeknuwIedgtiieEd nf a sendee rendenKl
by his father several years ago to nne of the company's ships, when
attacked by a band of Arab robbers. Ko sooner has the ships
gun spoken than the answer booms from Sheikh MizaTs buttery,
and I doubt If he would surrender the compliment for one half of
lib revenues. An elder brother, named Mohammed Kliflin was

PURS] A

326

for some time kept as a hostage by the Fenian tiovemmenL whose
policy In these ] inns litis always bean to pUy olf one tueniber of ft
fjimilv against another. He I ins oilier been released, and now
livea higher up on the Slmt-eUAmb. in receipt of a pension of 1*200
foirumj* from the Persian Government* but is on the woj>r of term*
with Sheikh Missal. ,A younger brother resides with the latter*
none of whose fifteen wires has succeeded in bearing him nuy
children. The sheikh is n tmm of over fifty years of age* of line
stature and dignified appearance, and is reported to be very rich,
having made a large fortune by the horse trade with Bombay *

For the present the relations between Sheikh Mteal and the
Persian tiovornment are ostensibly smooth and harmonious j but
v'mrsiin the Arab chief hn» tong been apprehensive of the future.

For years past he has seen the jKilicy of Teheran directs!
towards the gradual. suppression of all Hiemi-dejjeiident authority
in non-Persian hands, and the centralisation of executive power.
One after another the poppy-beads, to quote the old Homan fable,
have been smitten off■ and Arab shaikhs and Lor chieftains alike
have vanished into compulsory retirement, or more frequently into
the silent prisons of Teheran. For the pursuance of these tactics
in south-west Persia, the opening of the Karan River to foreign
trade* and the consequent necessi ty for now Cu stem-house officer
and Foreign Office representatives. have imp]died the Central
fiovemnient with a welcome excuse ; and it was with no slight
alarm that Sheikh Mi aid saw the first steamer of Messrs Lynch
ascend the Karim. Naturally* and by instinct a friend of the
English. with whom, mid particularly w ith the late Mr, Robertson*
he has for long been upon intimate terms, be yet feels himself
compelled to walk circumspectly* Accordingly, he regards eveiy-
thing and everybody with suspicion, lie declines to go on lioaitl
tiny vessel or steamer for Fear thin there may lie a plot to deport
him* In a creek immediately alongside of his house is moored his
own puddle-*!earner, the ■ Korun/ ready at any moment to carry
him into a safe retreat ; and hi* deputy flf Mohammerah was much
dietrt.^l when 1 announced my intent ion of inspecting the now
buildings at the comer, and gave private instructions that! should
he deceived aa to their diameter. More lately he has seen the
wisdom of making friend* with the Mauiiiiuii of unrighteousness £
and having invested both his interest and hh wealth in the native
commercial speculation for t he development of the Karun trade

*Ul lktJJ HU&L mi w

THE SOUTfI-AYKSTEBN FROVIN CES

337

roil te,otf which I shall speak in the next dmpter, and whichi »
backed by the Grand Vizier, lie may succeedto rctaimnglus twofold
office AJter Mm it is doubtful whether rhe Persian Govarnmcut
will ever again tolemte an Attib chieftain JXMg real

“^Th^Ku b Arabs occupy the entire wtent >1 territory troui
Mohammendi and the Kanm River eastward* towards the Kiv»-
. . Hindi mi, a distance of over one hundred miles.

natural richness of this region is enormous It is mow
abundantly watered than any track of similar awe m 1 «r
posing the K^n, Jerald, and ffindim, rivers and a ne^ork

',f canals. It is «,ml ,k of producing an immense variety of ceres
ami other crops: wheat, Inriey, rice, ni.gar, cotton, opium, a id
indigo. With proper care it might Lem one vast gtom-tuAd,
muring much needed wealth into a depleted exchequer* Am ' «,

triW warfare and Government oppression havo H“«d 1
desert over which the eye may warn miairested lor miles- ^

^on of the tribe dwell in the palm-groves upon the Ictt

shore of the Shat-d-Arab above and at Mohammcrah,

bath bunks of the Kurnn as fur a* Weis, Upon the nvere th

fish end trade and export their date crops;

huts of reed, and supply their own needs by extracting an unto-
served harvest from tbs prolific soil- 'ITieir wealth >* ehw J
pressed in docks of sheep and gO»te T particularly the , which

^y them with their woolleJ blank** and tents, and with ,
3? nod Verified butter. Their breed of 1— J- BJ*
diminished : but they possess large wri** *
long residence on Persian territory* the Ka b Arabshave Lst mit c
long re. mi. intermarried with tarn

of their own national character, ihey nave im-r.i

Penaeni and have adopted the Shiah rvbgmu, as well a* part, of
ih' i^an dress. 1 None the less no love is lost between the t wo
neiu.lt' the Perrfan regarding the Arab as an interloper ami a
dullard, and the Arab regarding the Persian, with mme joaticc in

this region, as a l 1100 ?*® 1 t ^Tribes 1 need only notice the

Mmitefik of Hawizch, on the extreme amith-castera border
Persian territory. They appear to have migrated thither Ire

, _ , Krt irriiLoriilfc li;milkcn:llief, uU the head, ttpt

■ bate t™*. hat. beo™m U.n Amb ***

in plitot My the ajM't ° r T ",

OT Clout. Otar te «*H a ^ atl UMia a ' A dr *

PERSIA

Turkish soil in 1812,and to have ousted that section of tlie Ka'b
Arabs who occupied this district, Hawizch was once rm imjiortiiot
xii-e Muij^ place, with a population of 21,000 souls, ut the time when
t,1il: it wufl the capital of the Vali u^r Arabirfiin, Its agricultural

wealth depended upon the River Kerthah, whose waters spread
bounty over the land. In however, the main dam burst;

the river dhoipetted itself in futile swampy and Uawizch shrunk
from a great t- avn to a petty village, it is still governed by n
sheikh of tin- old ruling family, claiming a sacred lineage ■ and
nccortling Uf hi* strength or weakness he receives the allegiance of
tt larger or smaller number of tribe*. The majority of hL people
have always remained Sunnis* Surrounded by their marshy, they
are fairly safe from encroachment.

I have now completed, my mryey of the only part of the Persian
dominions where anything like Independence still exists among
the comtNnrnnt chieb. and tribes. That independertec is

Kumraarj ‘ _ ... r . .

fast Vanishing Jjeforr a power that IS m com oust n:l of tbu

lieen sapped by the tribal jealousy and tbu petty rivalries of which

the Central Government lias never been alow to take advantage.

Personally 1 shall regrel its disappearance, convinced o& I am that

these [K-oplej Ltms and Arabs alike, have within them n manhood

which alone can sustain the nation in time of need, and that turn

but honourable ride and an eipdtable taxation were all that was

needed to ixmvert them into loyal subjects. A* it i@. thev dislike

the Persians, and detest the Government a f and, when the call

comes for their co-operatkin, 4 To your tents* Q Israel " is more

likely tote the nomads' response*

RvPt%ms$TA&* Routes is South- wm PekslbJ

IU^ivIAo *{> BaWaHAW.- (Sir) H, Lnymril (UHI), IJttrlj Mmttitm* n»L l
ftp* tTT-aa : J T P, FETiitr (ISiSk pp. U3-4; A. H. Schindler (IS7JT> + Ur

&t*di./tirf-rd ;u Itrriil i h vo]. tlv.; Ito. U^kmj. (I&SO), in t*rriv a vulll

Litter xjdL

BCECJtnn to Klji - Aaron C. J>e Bode £1*40), ftuMb, toL iL n p , atl-lfl:
A H. Schindler il$ 77 h ifrfrf.

Brin jimd to Isfahan KljouAnry-'h Otter £1737)* Vi^m ™ Ibn* ■
a, ii. fieWttdkrr (leri),

BWJUUt TO SniTHETK® (rte Khorrenubid wl Ditf n\ 2*0 mil**),-Ikron
c - fSmI|t CifriOJ. tW *Tol. iL pp. Ifi^SSS; A, BlnufciwjRi (1874), tw>

1 En Ihin mile ^rjf. e|ggiiiU*4 the work Ijv ihe mmu wrEicr before mentioned.

THE m LTII-WESTERN PROVINCES

interior de Frrria, A. 1L Sdilbdler (ia77)i -MM,; Colonel SI, S. Ei ti (MM).
Jfa^iKoir, April IflBi),

Eoimi to Siir*iiTE* (nd FD^Ut-uKub imd tiiifiri).—(Sir) tt. lift wH own
(liad) p Jewruoi v f rAd- z^r.r,,y., vok lx,

Uixittl tu SUAIl (3tf miles).-A_ 1L-Schindler (1»77)* iM; Cuptnin IT. L,

Wells i a rten‘^i3Tj?j c^fir J/.f?,*. (OuW jKli») h voL \% pp l^-G : Mmlutiiu

JH?u];Lfuy (1$S£), Ijl Fet-*r l i£ip< JCOtis*

Shuttle to Uoy.iitinRi u (by kiwi, IJ7 milts —A. IL Scliiudter (1877),
ibid.; Colons M. s, Belt C1SS4),

Sni HUTiiM TO Raw 11 ohm l x.—A. If. ScbLuilh'i' (1877), IW4*

SiruRttmaTO tM\HXS{ria Moi Amir and DcpnJim* Stitt mile*).—A. H, Schindler
( 1377 b ibid ,; ttiptftln II. L. W.tls ( 18 B 1 J, ittW, P pp. 144 -El; It. a Lynch
itacwttljjYf */ fA* A' M_& (mw series h vii, xil

Airw.t« TCI !H2iinc«A^.—Copbiln H- L. Weil* limb M/d.

BKHBUtLLS TtJ Blsdke M ASH Til (rii* Dell S4ocqui5lt*r {JEtfl)»

Fftren Jfe tttktf Pi {grimage> vul _ L. pp. Htl-IGU 1 ,

IlllEl hfi.ll AS TO SkuuR—Bum C- l ^‘ Ifcwln (l^40j, Trwftfr, vol.Lpp. lSli-290;

Captain U L. Wells (llMlb (MA, PP- lES-ik

Beiiih]EIAM to Jjtan.lv (nd Anbil).—Col, M if- Hell (ImM). Rlatiiwwf*

i%d;iNf h Jillv IBSEh

32 G

PERSIA

CHAFFER XXV

THE KARl-N RIVER

From AtTD|i|kliR and the nei^li bullring
Of Adhrirene, H ekLL'Ij. iirnL t ta: £oulli
Of Hu.s’juiJt to hitTf.Mi.

MtlrTOX, I\lTfrdi*€ Jii'qiL I twd.

Fan-bit i Iri^ji.LlL/li—

IIdM! God, tO-i]]4iiTDTiV !

/Vwwn &tyihc 0 .

II a voir in the previous chapter supplied nl! the information in my
power about the provinces of Arabistan and Lurietan, about their
Thf k™ peculiar and warring iwputatJuiiA, and about the problems
vamitxj u f \ oa% \ jurf foreign politics winch Liiey bring to light, I
now turn to a description of niy own journey up the waters of
the Kartm River, ns far as the taunt itid ami crumbling city of
8 hii 3 hter. There is much in tlu- country, in the river scenery,
and In the cborsicierof the people upon its banks, that distinguishes
tins from other parte or Persia, Few Englishmen have vhdted,
and fewer still have described this interesting corner of the Shah's
dn miTii otift ■ and whilst those who have done so have regarded their
es peri i-t ice* in crrmpilatious ncM devoid uf romance and taiiiiLiar to

the student, though not perhaps to tine public at targe/ the local

1 Ttw writor^ who ban* dealt w jrlj rbe Kanin river* SlwwliU-f, imd the »nr-
nfrnrutin ry flint H fit* af^ follows;— Dckll VldtDlt, TltS tbmmPTCf itttrf -Y(Wiff\Ui>tU
tftfaAiteientit H 1^07, Gen. W, Monleitih, Jmmfli if the IL&+3,, TuL xxviL
p. 10S. J, M. EinGeU. i 1813, Cnpl. K_ TrareU in

i?mWtra, ] BS9. J, H. ^bOtiqiidfetn lifter* AfiwthJ FHgrimagt, £ vuls, 1*3* (Sir)
E, BairtfaKiG* Journal of the It.fi.S, voL ii_ h 1330. Lk-nL W U fcfetbj* LN, H
*iW™ i f if ike It, Y.it 1 \Y^ | sn (Si r> A, fi Lay an! T JT,™ ^ fA* A. 0. .&.
vut xu, f 1 M 2 . VoL^XtLp ISIS ; Eari# AdecMum, 2 voli., 1887, Danin C. A. I>e
node, JwrHnt tf Ikr Ji fi.S. ¥ fdL xiii. p 1M3; ftvtivfr i'rt /.Nrirffl.! mj*/ AniAirfrtJT,
" wle , ] 8fl5v CoS. F IE, Clsesncv, fA *thf llivfrt EmpAmte*

nnd Tygn* isn 183^*7, - Toll., 1&50. W. F. AiluwTiilX IttMatrhti pm -li/yrtfl, ifa ip
|J$3S ; A /Vwtwri VfirfitfJff qftkr Euphratn ]Jj^S } Tkr River

Kant ii, I tsUHL W. K. Lrjftu *, Tm fyjlj <*W i« C Hvi^f l $u7 ■

j/iAc /f fi.A’-, toI. sxvii, 1 BoL Capt. G. II. II utu. fVriia A (lampai^n. (19-M).
Gen. A. IL ^dJlhilkr, 1 Tmveb Lu £s-W. Etmahi in £ri& if, (hu:U,f* AVrf, ^

...

■

. •

>■'. - •;

Tin: hAllis RIVER

conditions have very greatly chunked since flic majori \y of their
narratives worn written, and the drama or life is (hat nwiring the
close of n dmpter whose leaves will presently be turned back and
seated for ever. A riparian population of Arab tribes under native
sheikhs, who sustain a fitful and expiring independence against
the ever advancing encroachments of Persian governors and tax-
collectors; ;m inland population of noiund tribes, of mixed origin
ami reluctant lovrdty, who in their native hills si ill retain iliesr old
chili organisation and a vagrant liberty of life; tOWUSlieuple, half
Arab and half Persian, whose character is us composite m their
origin ; these Ingredients atone suggest a tableau of dramatic out*
line and vivid contrust + How much inore complex imd absorbing
is it bound to become when an outside competitor, in I he person
of Great Britain, steps upon the scene I

The K li run river is described ill text-books of geography as
the only navigable river in Persia. Rising in the knotted mountain
Til? Kujrim range to the west- of Isfahan, from wdiich t have briefly
rix ' T traced its passage in the previous chapter, it pursues a
westerly course through wild gorges and upland plains, until,
emerging from the hills immediately to e lie north of Mhashter, it
turn* sharply to Llie south and, after adorning that town with the
waterworks that have rendered it famous in history and still leave
it respectable in dimy, pursue a si a non a course over the wide
id In vial plain that stretches to the Sbat-el-Arab and the Persifsti
Qu\t On the way it receives, at Bimd-i-KirJts main affluent, the
Ab“i-lS^ or river of DLzfiil; whilst lower down its channel is in¬
terrupted, and navigation is iinjKHled, by the renowned rapids
of Ahwaa. At the river-port of Mohammerah it hows into the
estuary by which, forty mile* lower down, at Fuu, the combined
waters of the Tigris and Euphrates enter the Persmn GuLL

/Wi« + 1&7R pp. M0^s" EiuiJ let i Journal £1# JMA VdL *5L, p. $1 -*■

rtvdiivj* tf tke IL&-&, Haith 18*3, ; Yap* by Co] J. BftiwMm Ulifuu-

jtiillS iipcoL’h by Me 1 , G. S r ^il cli ; * Survey in*: 'ftnm In Stoutll by Major

tl. L. We]I k \lm>. IMluMoj, U /Vw/JSH"; A S*m, IHti. CuL M, S,
//JWireWV Xapazixf, April lSSR Oen. Sir R llurdudi Smith, Chamber of tiw-
inrtw JirurmU, March u. ISSS- Journal tte Society vf Art*, May JR 1*6*1.
Vi r L Tolai 3 E«ctiok B _Ertiiufrrun$ rftrr E\*stmfnhrt Etemrek*, 1SDC. Mr-= L Blitwp,

Jaurntyi 2 toIa. I«U. Perhaps I tuny lie |H.Tinilt^i to a«M lo thu

hitiHogniplij- mv own CflitiribuiJni!- cm the «iino mbjttt. wiifdli have bts-ij |un1]v
ntiU*.*4 fortliu oimpteT: Letter il. of ths strict oti Persia lathe Timet* Kubninry
•I. I SHU; 1 l.»vis from a Diary m the Karun Hivn,' tetrtnifkify llent-p, April
anil Mflj 16 £H>; * TV Kansu River/ /^wrfrfOjjjr ■/ tkr M G-A, &■

PERSIA

With ancient history, and with the disputed qnwtioitt of the
Ulai or Eu lions, the Coprutes, the Uhoastju s, the Posit tgriB. and
Aiwintii tliuir identity with the modern river-beds in the Tigris
chiMuurU ;uul Euphrates delta, I shall not greatly trouble my
renders. The diiumels. itnd even the entire course of the rivers of
Suaiana—where from time to tion- great mosses of snow-fed
wntor are suddenly propelled through n sandy ami friable soil, and
where vast artificial irrigation works have sometimes reversed tin'
dispositions of nature—-have shifted frequently and irrecqgniaablv.
Unless we adopt this explanation, which charity as well as nature
recommends, we shot! be forced to the conclusion that the nnriert
dteonidere and geographers who dealt with these rivers wen- :■
very muddle-headed set of people: mi hypo t beau to which 1 am
only inclined by the discovery that the majority of their modern
successors have been guilty of confusions at least net startling, but
over which Hie Impulse of common impartiality tempts me equally
to draw h veil, l will merely 8»y that I identify the Karan with
the Piiflitigrirt. (i,e. InHsser Tigris), 1 up wlikh, NeurcbuK Bailed with
the Macedonian Heet to join Alexander. (>ther historical identifica¬
tions will he reserved for the foot-notes as I proceed.

Here we luay take up the history of the Kanin river at the
moment when it first concerns ourselves, and when its commercial
Early advantages began to be recog

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